RE: More~ SCARE~ ~~stories

From: Malouf, Perry (Perry.Malouf@jhuapl.edu)
Date: Wed Mar 03 1999 - 05:49:24 PST


Date: Wed, 3 Mar 1999 08:49:24 -0500 
From: "Malouf, Perry" <Perry.Malouf@jhuapl.edu>
To: cp@opus.hpl.hp.com
Message-Id: <aabcdefg648$foo@default>
Subject: RE: More~ SCARE~ ~~stories


        Hey Marc Burak,

        I envy the success you've reported about growing Nepenthes that
have
        been "mistreated". My experience has not mirrored your reports,
and
        I would love to pay you a visit to see how it's done.

        I haven't found Nepenthes roots to be like metal cable. Sure,
some
        of my larger plants do have strong primary roots. It's the very
        fine roots that I'm more worried about when I repot the plants.
These
        black roots resemble darning thread and are very delicate on my
        plants. They can be pulled gently (though I try to not do that)
without
        breaking--if they do break from a gentle tug then they're
probably
        rotten anyway and not functional.

        I haven't killed a plant yet by damaging those fine roots. But
I have
        noticed that the plants are set back for a little while when the
        roots are damaged. They usually recover in a few weeks--the
        time of recovery depends on the species/hybrid.

        As regards the temperature fluctuations, I've read reports of
        people subjecting N. khasiana and a few others to slightly sub-
        freezing temperatures where the vegetative portion of the plant
        turned black and rotted away after a few days. The plants
        came back after some time. One possible explanation is
        that the plants were large, the root ball was massive, and the
        temperatures didn't stay very low for very long to freeze the
        root ball. I don't think any Nepenthes would come back after
        the root ball has been frozen.

        If my plants experience temperatures outside of their preferred
        range, they slow down. In the Winter, my highlanders grow
        faster and my lowlanders stop; vice versa in Summer.

        Even salt buildup in the potting media affects the growth rate
        of my plants. Recently I measured the conductivity of the
        runoff from my Nepenthes pots and found it to be much
        higher than normal. The problem was traced to a few
        months of poor watering practices, and has now been
        corrected. Those affected plants are much happier now.

        Is it absolutely necessary to pay attention to salt buildup,
        temperature range, humidity, etc. in order to keep a Nepenthes
        alive? No, not if you're reasonable. It can take a long time
to
        kill a Nepenthes with improper conditions.

        But if you do pay attention to these things, trying to keep
        them right for the plants you're growing, I think the plants
        will grow faster, look much better, and give you more
        satisfaction. That's my experience, anyway.

>...Dave, why do you pass on information that is ... inaccurate?

        Well, he was reporting his observations of his plants (I think).
        Certainly I have just reported my observations of my plants.

        Why do our observations differ from yours, and somewhat from
        each other's? One explanation is that we provide different
growing
        conditions for our plants--perhaps different potting media,
lighting,
        humidity, water, etc.

        And that's why I'd love to pay you a visit sometime to see how
        you get your Nepenthes to produce "metal cable" roots. :-)

        Regards,

        Perry Malouf



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