Re: Halide lamps and heat (SMTP Id#: 2935) - Reply

Oliver T Massey CFS (
Mon, 31 Jan 94 15:04:10 EST

> If you buy a 100W lamp of any type, doesn't that mean that you are expected
> to get 100W of radiant energy out of the thing? And so if you have a 100W
> lamp with 50% efficiency, doesn't that mean you're going to be consuming
> 200W of power?
> B
Barry: I believe that you cannot automatically equate the wattage of a
light bulb of any type to the visible light output. Watts are a measure
of current (?amps x volts). Ratings are a measure of the electricity
the bulb consumes, not the efficiency or output. One reason
fluorescents are recommended as energy savers.

Back to the original question, if the edwardian needs extra warmth,
another good bet would be a 25 or 40 watt incandescent. I suggest this
because using halide or fluorescent ballasts to warm the enclosure will
only be effective when the lights are on. The biggest concern for lower
temps is likely to be late at night or very early - say 3-5AM. Your
house will usually be coolist at this time, as are outdoor temps.

An incandescent is actually a lousy light source, except for maybe us
humans, but a good heat source. Even during the short winter light
cycle you can leave the incandscent on without providing any real light
to your Nepenthes, while still providing viewing and warmth.

I would guess that two 25 watt bulbs for heat would be more than enough for a
dislay case even as large as described.