You will almost certainly want to re-pot them in the spring.
I use a 50/50 perlite/peat mix with great success. As a
beginner, we should pass on the sage words "DO NOT USE
Hyponex brand peat".
>>
>>I'm not sure if they are still alive. As it is dead fall out here
>>in New Jersey, I picked up "vitafly" (dead flys for iguana's) to
>>try and revive them. The traps are not closing on them, though.
Dead prey won't work. Dionea relies on the movement of the
prey to form the final seal and release the digestive
juices.
>>
>>Please, has anyone out there successfully raised a VFT to "giant"
>>proportions??? I need info on what to pot them in, can they be
Nope, but I've seen a few healthy plants that had traps over
an inch long on them.
>>saved?, what can I feed them in absence of bugs?, do they hibernate
>>in the winter?, what temps do they need, ditto on humidity, is
Yes, they go dormant. Cut way back on water, and let the
plants get cold. I grow mine outside. Mature plants are
harder to rot, but only if they get the cooler temps naturally
outside. I've never measured humidity, but it's not critical.
Even 50% is probably enough, if not plenty.
>>an aquarium the best medium to grow them in?... O.k., o.k., I'm
>>off to the library after work to try and track down some of the
>>books listed in the index but my town library is pretty small and
>>I'm doubtful they have anything.
Grow Dionea this way:
During Growing Season
---------------------
Pure water, wet, LOTS of sun, outdoor temps. Dionea grows
in North Carolina, so you can guess what the temps are
like. If you're near a bay or the coast and summer temps
are reasonably warm, you should be able to grow outside.
Dionea can stand freezing as long as the "bulb" doesn't
freeze. Some people mulch the plants for the winter.
Dormant season
--------------
Dry out, cool temps, shorter photoperiod. If you grow
indoors, slowly moving the plant outdoors will work just
fine, but beware cats, birds, & squirrels who might dig
up your plant.