Sorry about the ragged format of the letter. It didn't survive the
transformation from TEX file to plaintext very well....
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Regarding frost hardiness---I allow none
of my CP to be exposed to frosts, with a few exceptions. The
temperature may get down to the high thirties usually without any problem,
but avoid a frost. Exceptions to this are the lowland Nepenthes and the
tropical Utricularia (which is just about the only kind of
Utricularia I grow), which really shouldn't get below 50 F
for best results. The only CP I have which are frost hardy are the following:
(1) all the Drosera listed under the heading ``North American'' except
D. brevifolia and D. capillaris,
(2) the North American Drosera
hybrids D. Xcalifornica, Xhybrida, Xbeleziana,
(3) the temperate Pinguicula species, such as P. grandiflora ssp.,
(4) all the Sarracenia. In fact, regarding
the Sarracenia, a well defined period of cool rest for them is a
requirement for them if you wish to grow them well. This is most important
for the S. purpurea purpurea, S. rubra jonesii and S. oreophila
and perhaps least important for S.psittacina. Expect that with a frost
the leaves will wither, but the rhizome is unharmed. Never cut live growth
back on this genus.
You will be happy to hear that the vast majority of CP grow under
identical conditions. But I think you can group them together under the
following basic headings...
Wet tropicals: This category covers most of the CP on my list.
The plants like wet conditions all year round, and must be protected
from a frost. Also avoid temperatures in excess of 100 F. Sun
can be either full or partial shade---you should experiment on this matter
depending on how much sun you get. By wet conditions, I mean that
I keep my plants in trays of water constantly. Once a week I water the trays
so much that the water level reaches the soil surface. Over the week, the
water level slowly drops till the trays are close to or quite dry, then
I fill them up again. I include the following plants in
this category (1)seedling Sarracenia, adult P. psittacina,
Utricularia, Genlisea, P. lusitanica,
P. planifolia and P. primuliflora. (2)frost tender N. American
Drosera and the Australian/New Zealand Drosera except tuberous and pygmy
types and falconeri-complex plants. (3)the S. African Drosera
except those noted below. In the above groups of plants, use the key that
(1)do best in dead or live Sphagnum (if dead, I grind it up first),
(2)do best in a mix of 1 sand/1 peat and (3)do fine in either. Note that
all D. binata varieties die back to a root mass during the winter.
Moist tropicals: Treatment is the same as above, but I don't like
to keep them as wet. These are (1)adult Sarracenia, D. regia,
D. slackii, Cephalotus, North American Pinguicula not mentioned
elsewhere, (2) D. cistiflora,
D. cuneifolia, D. trinervia, Byblis, D. lanata, D. falconeri, D. petiolaris.
Plants in category (1) like
Sphagnum while plants in (2)prefer a sand/peat mix. Some of these plants
will go partially or completely dormant during the hot summer, like the (2)
plants---except D. trinervia or Byblis. Others may go dormant
during the winter, like Sarracenia or the Pinguicula. In general,
cut back the water to these plants when dormant.
Moist winter, dry summer: A sand/peat mix group, this really
applies to the tuberous Drosera which is a tough group to grow
except for D. peltata ssp. peltata and D. peltata ssp.
auriculata.
Moist summer, cool winter: Another sand/peat mix, I'm thinking
about the pygmies. Another tough group of plants.
Moist summer, cold winter: These are the frost hardy plants that
I discussed under that subject.
Except for the Sarracenia, I store these in my fridge during the
winter to make sure they are nice and cold.
Semi or complete epiphytes: All the Mexican Pinguicula,
and some Utricularia like U. humboldtii, U. alpina,
U. asplundii. Grow these in a live Sphagnum mix, keep them
moist, but don't allow them to sit in much water. This is a difficult
group for some people, especially the Utrics.
With a few exceptions, there are no special seed treatments. Just sprinkle
the seed on the soil appropriate for an adult plant, label
the pot, and then wait. Germination will occur between 10 days and
3 years(!), depending on the plant. You must be patient. I have at any
time about 30 seed pots. Every few weeks something new germinates. The plants
with special seed treatments are Drosophyllum and Byblis. For Drosophyllum
there are 3 common methods.The first is to plant the seed 1/8''
deep then pour a few cups of boiling water over
the soil, or make a small cool-burn fire. The heat hastens germination. Or
you can buy some gibberellic acid, an expensive botanical chemical, and
use that to startle the seeds into germination. None of these methods
have worked for me. I just sow the seeds in a pot of sand/peat, keep it
lightly moist, and wait. Usually in the spring, after a long cool winter,
they start to germinate. Don't try to fake a long cool winter in your
fridge---the seeds are prone to fungus. They need the air circulation
of an outdoor or at least greenhouse setting. Once you get germination,
avoid having more than a few plants per 5 gallon pot (that's right,
5 gallon). Keep the soil moist but not wet. They are super-sensitive
to root shock so avoid any transplantings.
Well there you go. Some basics on CP culture. I think I covered
all the bases. Remember that if you treat the seedlings like you would a
mature plant, you can't go too far wrong. There are always going to be
exceptions to the above and various tricks (i.e. with affixed aquatic
Utrics, or which plants must be crossed or selfed for seed)...
I know what I'm talking about when I discuss CP culture, that much is
probably obvious. But do not make a common mistake and follow my
advice religiously. You will soon find methods that work best for you,
methods perhaps contrary to mine. You will be growing CP in a different
area than I do. I have scorching sun and desert summers. I am reminded
how Adrian Slack always writes about Drosophyllum---he uses a double
pot system, never disturbs plants, waters by tray only, and lets only
one plant grow per pot. Meanwhile, a friend here grows the plant violating
every one of Slack's rules. Yet he has a glorious collection of plants.
Follow my and other's suggestions, but only long enough to find your own
way.