Date: Sun, 17 Dec 2000 01:52:12 From: "Trent Meeks" <flaneps@hotmail.com> To: cp@opus.hpl.hp.com Message-Id: <aabcdefg3621$foo@default> Subject: sterile Nepenthes hybrids
>
>----------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>Topic No. 1
>
>Date: Fri, 15 Dec 2000 20:55:44 +1300
>From: Andrew Broome <broome@manawatu.gen.nz>
>To: cp@opus.labs.agilent.com
>Subject: Re: Sterile Nepenthes Hybrids
>Message-ID: <1.5.4.32.20001215075544.00bf7a48@mail.manawatu.gen.nz>
>
>
>CPers,
Hi CPers'
Thought I'd jump in on this one, as I've messed around with Nepenthes
hybrids a little bit.
>Not that I'm anywhere near being an expert on this (or any other)
>subject, all that I can claim is that I've listened to various
>other folk talk, seen a bunch of plants grown under a range of conditions
>and grown a selection of highland and lowland species myself in tanks
>for a couple of years...
>
>Firstly: On the subject of sterile hybrids. Has anyone ever made a
>secondary hybrid from N. x Mastersiana (N. sanguinea x N. khasiana)?
>I've tried and it's not worked (crossed with N. maxima FYI), which is not
>to say it's impossible or even unlikely of course. To me it seems likely
>that some multiple hybrids would be easier to generate than others.
I do believe there are some hybrids using N. Mastersiana, some dating back
to the turn of the twentieth century. Also, the beautiful hybrid (Anybody
out there got a cutting available?) N. Ville de Rouen is N. Mastersiana x N.
Tiveyi. Fertility may depend on individual plants, as no one has determined
ploidy in Nepenthes. As an example: N. Dyeriana may very well be a triploid
as it seems to not readily hybridize, and just as importantly,its hybrids
yield low germination of seed. Right off, the only two hybrids with N.
Dyeriana that I can think of are N. Fukakusana (rafflesiana x Dyeriana) and
N. Prosperity (mirabilis? x Dyeriana). Not too many siblings of these
crosses that I know of, which leads me to believe that few seeds germinated
when the cross was made.
Some of
>this may have to do with geographic seperation, or not. I know I've got
>some 'mongrel' plants with at least three parents including N. ventricosa,
>N. talangenis, N. gymnamphora, N. inermis (shudder! ;-) and N. bongso.
>
>It'd be interesting to see if anyone could cross, say, N. khasiana with
>N. pervellii or for that matter, N. pervellii x N. madagascarensis.
N. pervellii is a different situation. It has been argued by taxonomist that
it should be place in a seperate genus, as a second genus within the
Nepenthacea (sp?). It may be like trying to cross house cats with tigers.
>Secondly, on media. Various things seem to work for various people. One
>main difference that I haven't seen mentioned at least lately is that the
>environment the plant is grown in seems (to me) to make a huge difference
>with regard to success with assorted media.
IMHO: absolutely agree.
>Most of my plants are in tanks and as such do well (from seed or TC)
>initially
>in pure sphagnum (which I can pick up off the side of the road in places -
>Ha! ;-)
>but which seem to do less well once they've become established. These
>plants
>seem to do much better (under tank conditions, remember) as they mature
>growing in
>peat: vermiculite: pumice (random amounts that seem right by feel) to such
>an
>extent that once transplanted the next leaf and pitcher are vastly bigger
>than
>the previous pre-transplant leaf/pitcher. I can probably show photos if
>anyone
>really needs evidence for my gut feel.
>
>Anyway, just the thoughts of a far-away enthusiast.
I do not grow my plants in tanks, but outside in a lathe house. Humidity
levels can fluctuate considerably, and can be my biggest "enemy" even here
in southern Florida. I use a variety of mixes, discovered through the
methods of the school of hard knocks, but have found seedling grade fir
bark, aliflor, pumice(fine grade), sphagnum peat, and osmunda fiber make a
great mix. The more terrestrial species, such as N. khasiana, do best in
large aliflor, seedling grade fir bark (used for orchid seedlings, like
Cattleya), and Canadian sphagnum peat in equal parts. Truncata, veitchii,
alata, do better with more aliflor and osmunda. Aliflor is best described
as clay balls, and it comes in several grades. I use pure long fiber
sphagnum moss for damaged plants and establishing cuttings. You've gotta
keep a watchful eye on spag. moss when growing under lathe house conditions,
as it can go bad quickly.
Hope my comments have been of interest.
Until later,
Trent Meeks
Pompano Beach, Florida.
>Andrew@home.
>
>*NZKA 137, NAKA 5, AKA 07212, PNAS, NZCPS ...
>* Degeneracy can be fun, but it's hard to keep up
>* as a serious lifetime occupation.
>* Robert M. Pirsig (ZatAoMM)
>*Killies: Ducatis: Reptiles & Amphibians: Carnivorous Plants:
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