Date: Tue, 11 Apr 2000 10:20:00 +0100 From: Phil Wilson <cp@pwilson.demon.co.uk> To: cp@opus.hpl.hp.com Message-Id: <aabcdefg1095$foo@default> Subject: Re: cutting sarracenia (again) and scale
Hi,
>
>1. Earlier I asked for advice on rhizome division for
>S. purpurea. I followed the suggestions, did the division,
>and both divided plants are doing ok. However, the
>cutting wasn't very satisfactory; the rhizome is long-ish,
>several major crowns are at one end, and the roots are
>all at the opposite end. So to separate the major crowns
>(which was what I wanted to do; they're getting quite
>crowded), and still get roots in each division, I would
>have to cut the rhizome across its entire length. Is
>it safe to do this? Should I try to cut again, or wait
>till next year?
>
While it is always preferable to cut the rhizome into sections with
roots as you have found this isn't always possible. You can divide the
plant up into smaller sections. The sections of plant without roots will
put down new roots in a month or so. As a precaution you should bury the
crowns a little deeper than usual, but do not cover them. Remove most of
the leaf/pitcher growth since this makes the plant very top heavy
without roots and therefore makes the cutting liable to fall or get
knocked over. Cutting the leafy growth back also reduces transpiration -
while the plant has no roots it cannot replace lost water easily. Put
the cuttings in a semi-shaded position until you see signs of new
growth, then eventually introduce into full sunlight.
You will be able to use the remaining sections of rhizome without any
growth points to make new cuttings. Bury the rhizome to about half its
depth and leave in semi shade. After a few weeks you should see new
growth buds developing along the rhizome. These will rapidly grow into
new growth points. You can leave the rhizome as it is and it will
eventually develop into another multi-crowned plant or you can remove
the new growth points once they have two or three pitchers. At this
stage the new plants will not have roots. Simply push the plants into
the soil - the plants will root in a month or so.
Alternatively you can leave the rhizome cutting until next spring, then
dig up the rhizome and divide it into sections, each with a growth
point.
When you use a rhizome section for cuttings it is not necessary for it
to have roots. In fact I usually remove all the roots I can since these
can often get in the way when removing new growth points.
>2. One of my S. leucophylla is coming out of dormancy,
>but I just noticed it developed scale, mostly on the
>older pitchers. I've cut off all the old pitchers,
>scraped off the little spots that might be scale
>on the new flower stalks and emerging pitchers,
>and isolated the plant. I've checked the other plants
>close by and they seem to be clean. I'd like to hear
>about treatments or precautions that people have
>found to be effective.
>
You need to hit them with a good systemic insecticide. Check that the
insecticide is effective against scale - not all of them are.
Regards,
Phil Wilson
Email: cp@pwilson.demon.co.uk
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