################### From: "Jason Ashley" Date: Sat, 1 Jan 2000 05:26:16 -0500 Subject: Fire Ant Invasion vs. Sarracenia Living in the northeastern part of the USA I was largely unfamiliar with the growing problem of exotic fire ants (Solenopsis invicta) in the southeastern part of the country. I find it sadly ironic that as the fire ants spread, the habitat for what is possibly the best natural defender, our beloved Sarracenia, is decreasing. I am curious however if fire ants are attracted to Sarracenia to the same degree native ants are. If so, would it not be worthwhile to promote Sarracenia as a natural means of controlling the fire ants? From what I have learned about fire ants it would seem that people would love to find a natural control or, at least, something of a deterrant to fire ant infestations. Would someone who lives down in Dixie let this poor yankee know if I'm on the right track with this line of thought? Many thanks, Jason Ashley Warwick, NY USA ################### From: "Sundew Sundew" Date: Sat, 1 Jan 2000 12:44:52 -0500 Subject: Happy New Year Hey CPers, Just wanted to wish all my CP buddies a great 2000! If I owe you email, drop me a line - I've fallen behind on the correspondence. Y2K bug :) Matt [HTML file part2 deleted by listprocessor] ################### From: "arie" Date: Sat, 1 Jan 2000 22:05:58 +0200 Subject: new at my site Happy New Year to all cp lovers I had added few short videos at my site you can come and enjoy them http://www.shalon.k-gat.k12.il/cp arie ========================================== come and visit at my site http://www.shalon.k-gat.k12.il/cp [HTML file part2 deleted by listprocessor] ################### From: "Marc Verdyck" Date: Sun, 2 Jan 2000 00:09:34 +0100 Subject: New E-mail adress! Hello, I want to inform you that my E-mail adress changed in : verdyckmarc@freegates.be Regards, Marc [HTML file part2 deleted by listprocessor] ################### From: "David J. Collier, MD" Date: Sat, 01 Jan 2000 18:58:38 -0800 Subject: SF water, conductivity meter, Tap Water Purifier I have been trying out my new Tap Water Purifier from Aquarium Pharmaceuticals in conjunction with my new conductivity meter from Cole Parmer. Here's what I have discovered: San Francisco tap water from my kitchen sink gives a TDS reading of 80-90 ppm, so perhaps it is suitable after all for use on CPs without any further treatment. After passing through the Tap Water Purifier, the SF tap water gives a TDS reading of zero. Pretty good, I would say. I've only run a few gallons through the TWP so far, so I can't comment yet on the life of the deionizing column. Given the low TDS reading of the tap water, however, I am optimistic that I should get more than the advertised 50 gallons. David Collier dcollier@mail.med.upenn.edu ################### From: "Harden" Date: Sat, 1 Jan 2000 22:51:47 -0600 Subject: Tap Water Purifier Make sure you read that book with the Tap Water Purifier. The pH will be neutral or undeterminable due to the deionizing process, and I think it said something about conductivity also. Left the book at work though. And on a second note, why do airports install those water faucets that you press the handle and you have .2 seconds to wash your hands? Well, I guess They don't trust everyone with water conservation, nor do they understand how difficult it is to hold that button down with your foot. When exiting, the sign on the door said they installed water-saving faucets to save our enviroment. Nice idea huh? if they are concerned about our enviroment...why did they only have paper towels for drying our hands? All that water saved went to trees to make into paper towels I guess....sigh.... Joe ################### From: Wouter Noordeloos Date: Sun, 02 Jan 2000 17:29:00 +0100 Subject: Canned sphagnum moss products Hi everyone, First of al I wish everyone a happy new yaer and the best wishes for the new millenium. Last week I visit a web-site who sale canned and compressed sphagnum moss products; www.losvolcanes.com They used to sell it to commercial growers around the world. Can we use these moss products for our CP's, or are they full of salts and minerals or other dirty stuf? Please visit this site and tel me what you think. Greetings, Wouter Noordeloos Manager of Carnivora, the dutch carnivorous plant society ################### From: Michael Vanecek Date: Sun, 02 Jan 2000 13:32:18 -0600 Subject: Re: Fire Ant Invasion vs. Sarracenia Wow. That's cool. Suppose a sunken tub with spagnum, plants and a watering system were introduced to a person's yard? Not only would it be pretty, it would also be beneficial. Of course, it wouldn't erradicate the ants - not with their multiple queens. But it would generate a lot of satisfaction to see the evil ants dying in such a way... :) I live in Central Texas, but I haven't seen many fire-ant mounds here. I may just experiment with it anyway to see what results I would get. I think a variety of Sarr, and maybe the Darlingtonia too? Jason Ashley wrote: > > Living in the northeastern part of the USA I was largely unfamiliar with the > growing problem of exotic fire ants (Solenopsis invicta) in the southeastern > part of the country. I find it sadly ironic that as the fire ants spread, > the habitat for what is possibly the best natural defender, our beloved > Sarracenia, is decreasing. I am curious however if fire ants are attracted > to Sarracenia to the same degree native ants are. If so, would it not be > worthwhile to promote Sarracenia as a natural means of controlling the fire > ants? From what I have learned about fire ants it would seem that people > would love to find a natural control or, at least, something of a deterrant > to fire ant infestations. > > Would someone who lives down in Dixie let this poor yankee know if I'm on > the right track with this line of thought? > > Many thanks, > > Jason Ashley > Warwick, NY > USA -- Cheers, Mike http://dotfile.net/ mailto:info@dotfile.net <-------------------------------------------------> "My zeal to start using Linux is stronger than my fear of looking like a dummy." --Some Wise Man <-------------------------------------------------> Why does Sea World have a seafood restaurant? I'm halfway through my fishburger and I realize, Oh my God....I could be eating a slow learner. ################### From: "Kira Jones" Date: Sun, 2 Jan 2000 14:51:23 -0600 Subject: Fungus on Soil Greetings! I know this is probably an old thread I'm resurrecting, but I'm really not sure what to do. I woke up this morning to find a small colony of white mold growing on the soil of my Sarr, which is still in dormancy. Should I just scrape it off, and see what happens, or get some sort of fungicide? If the later, what kind is best? ~Kira Get your free customized E-mail from http://gmail.garfield.com ! ################### From: "Michael Hunt" Date: Sun, 2 Jan 2000 15:34:55 -0500 Subject: Re: Fire Ant Invasion vs. Sarracenia Well, Speaking from experience. Nice thought, but "That dog, don't hunt" !! There is no possible way a stand of hundreds of acres of Sarracenia would even put a small dent in the fire ant population. ~Mike ----- Original Message ----- To: Multiple recipients of list Sent: Sunday, January 02, 2000 2:32 PM > Wow. That's cool. Suppose a sunken tub with spagnum, plants and a > watering system were introduced to a person's yard? Not only would it be > pretty, it would also be beneficial. Of course, it wouldn't erradicate > the ants - not with their multiple queens. But it would generate a lot > of satisfaction to see the evil ants dying in such a way... :) I live in > Central Texas, but I haven't seen many fire-ant mounds here. I may just > experiment with it anyway to see what results I would get. I think a > variety of Sarr, and maybe the Darlingtonia too? > > Jason Ashley wrote: > > > > Living in the northeastern part of the USA I was largely unfamiliar with the > > growing problem of exotic fire ants (Solenopsis invicta) in the southeastern > > part of the country. I find it sadly ironic that as the fire ants spread, > > the habitat for what is possibly the best natural defender, our beloved > > Sarracenia, is decreasing. I am curious however if fire ants are attracted > > to Sarracenia to the same degree native ants are. If so, would it not be > > worthwhile to promote Sarracenia as a natural means of controlling the fire > > ants? From what I have learned about fire ants it would seem that people > > would love to find a natural control or, at least, something of a deterrant > > to fire ant infestations. > > > > Would someone who lives down in Dixie let this poor yankee know if I'm on > > the right track with this line of thought? > > > > Many thanks, > > > > Jason Ashley > > Warwick, NY > > USA > > -- > Cheers, > Mike > > http://dotfile.net/ > mailto:info@dotfile.net > <-------------------------------------------------> > "My zeal to start using Linux is stronger than my > fear of looking like a dummy." --Some Wise Man > <-------------------------------------------------> > Why does Sea World have a seafood restaurant? I'm > halfway through my fishburger and I realize, Oh my > God....I could be eating a slow learner. ################### From: "Joseph Kinyon" Date: Sun, 2 Jan 2000 14:32:26 -0800 Subject: odds n ends Richard, You quipped, > Davion, > Forget the fertilizer, just send me the stuff your on. > Richard. Flames only need a match, lets keep it safe, besides you like the way you write! **** Jason, My first question to your ant question is: Do they overlap in habitat? Don't fireants like it dry, and Saracenia like it boggy? Just a thought to add to your thought. **** David, I work at the California Academy of Sciences. I believe there is some detailed monitoring of the water done by the aquarium engineers. Would you care for that info? Joseph Kinyon Marin Headlands ################### From: "tierney wayne" Date: Sun, 02 Jan 2000 21:25:13 PST Subject: Off topic question Hi everyone, Sorry for the off topic question, but I think I remember someone on the list mentioning that he/she also was an aquarium hobbiest... I just purchased my first real aqaurium (tropical freshwater) and I feel like such a novice!! Does anyone know of a good digest or listserve that I could subscribe to? Thanks in advance, Tierney ################### From: MCATALANI@aol.com Date: Mon, 3 Jan 2000 00:28:09 EST Subject: Fire Ants >> Living in the northeastern part of the USA I was largely unfamiliar with the growing problem of exotic fire ants (Solenopsis invicta) in the southeastern part of the country. I find it sadly ironic that as the fire ants spread, the habitat for what is possibly the best natural defender, our beloved Sarracenia, is decreasing. I am curious however if fire ants are attracted to Sarracenia to the same degree native ants are. If so, would it not be worthwhile to promote Sarracenia as a natural means of controlling the fire ants? From what I have learned about fire ants it would seem that people would love to find a natural control or, at least, something of a deterrant t o fire ant infestations. Would someone who lives down in Dixie let this poor yankee know if I'm on the right track with this line of thought? Many thanks, Jason Ashley>> Warwick, NYFire Ants have become an extreme nuisance here in the Memphis area during the past 7 years or so, although they were not near as bad this year. I can tell you that they can show up in your yard by the millions overnite. They are very hardy, and build their nests within the soil of my Sarracenia bogs. (These bogs are about 2 feet deep. There is standing water about 8"-1 foot below the surface.) Even with the soil moisture being high, they have no problems setting up their nests there. I have over watered the bogs a few time to try to rid them. They will scramble madly, removing the young to drier ground. But if the bog dries out, they will return. Overwatering continuously will rid them for a while, as they apparantly get tired of moving. The plants do capture some as food, but the sarracenias growing here fill up immediately on the wasp population. They fill the pitcher so high that the ants easily wander in and out of the pitcher. I have not checked the contents of S. minor, but this would probably be the pitcher plant of choice to fight these pests. Sundews should be good as well, but mine here are covered with the smaller flying insects such as gnats. Michael Catalani ################### From: (Howard J. Wu L.Ac) Date: Mon, 3 Jan 2000 4:19:26 +0000 Subject: Mr. Wu's debut message Hello. My name is Howard Wu. I live the eastern sierras and I have been raising CP's for almost three years now. My tap water is superb. (I get to piss far upstream from Los Angeles.) But my climate is very dry so I grow my plants indoors under glass. How I got interested in CP's: My principle hobby was raising killifish. I live in a remote rural community so it was hard to buy aquarium plants locally. I mostly acquired mine from hobbiest through the mail. Many years ago I had an aquatic bladderwort sent to me from the Dixieland Killifish Association. I wanted to again find this plant. Through the interet I discovered the utricularia webpage of Barry Rice-Meyer's as he was moving from Arizona. Here I learned that bladderworts weren't just aquatics. About three years ago Tom Johnson from the Los Angeles CPS offered me a dozen utricularia of various types. ( Thanks Tom.) These included many terrestials and epiphytes. I begun to grow these under the lights on top of my aquariums. Included was a weed sundew rosette and VFT. From her my collection has expanded into other CP's, but I remain foremost an utriciphile. I will admit that sundews are nice for lapping up those escaped wingless fruitflys I feed my fish. I have a few pitchers seedlings, pings and nepenthes just to round out my collection, but space limits my interest in these. Also before my CP days, in my Encyclopedia of Aquatic Plants I have read about Aldrovanda. I thus began a quest to obtain this unusual plant. I have since learned very much about water ecology while have only marginally being able to keep these plants alive in my collection. But they continues to be of great interest to me. For me they are 'my rose' as in "The Little Prince". I hope to someday fully master their cultivation. Last, I'm an acupuncturist/herbalist by profession, so I have some academic intested in the historic medical uses of CP's and their enzymology. Howard J. Wu Bishop Ca. mrwu@qnet.com ################### From: "dick c tran" Date: Mon, 03 Jan 2000 08:46:59 -0800 Subject: network of moss on soil surface does anyone have a problem with very fine moss that grows on top of their soil with plants grown under lights? I found out this weekend as i was fiddling with my cephs and discovered a huge growth crown underneath this layer of bind-soil trying to push its way through to the surface in one of my plants. this moss forms a matrix which binds the soil surface together which inhibits plants that produces side-shoots from getting through except towards the sides of the pot. at times, it is so meshed together, that i can insert a pair of tweezers into the top 1/4 inch of the soil and lift it off. so far, the only thing i can do is to replace the top layer of soil very carefully when i see this happen. LYCOShop is now open. On your mark, get set, SHOP!!! http://shop.lycos.com/ ################### From: "dick c tran" Date: Mon, 03 Jan 2000 09:00:45 -0800 Subject: cephalotus i was wondering if anyone has any problems with their cephs producing pitchers that are too close to the crown where the pitchers are developing on top of each other. Does anyone know of a way to get their cephs to develop longer petioles? besides what i mentioned below and removing older pitchers to make way for the new ones, does anyone have alternative solutions to this? i've tried blocking out the light at the crown hoping that the petiole would grown farther out before pitcher grown. So far, inconclusive. They're so damn slow....! dick LYCOShop is now open. On your mark, get set, SHOP!!! http://shop.lycos.com/ ################### From: Barry Meyers-Rice Date: Mon, 3 Jan 2000 11:16:53 -0800 (PST) Subject: mjin hobby is vleesetende planten willy (fwd) Hey Folks, I'm back from a trip, sorting through email. Can anyone translate this piece that I got from a grower, I believe in response to some page in the CP FAQ? Is this in some composite language? It almost reads as a phonetic English, in an odd, twisted way. ---------- Forwarded message ---------- Ik heb het adres gekregen van een vriend die mij dezelfde hobby doe als ik. Ik ben opzoek naar nieuwe planten en het aan te kopen van boeken. kunt u helpen dank u WILLY. ADRES : CASSIMAN WILLY BEIGEMSESTEENWEG,310 1852 BEIGEM ( GRIMBERGEN ) BELGI\313E --------------------- Dr. Barry Meyers-Rice bazza@sarracenia.com Carnivorous Plant FAQ--author www.sarracenia.com/faq.html Carnivorous Plant Newsletter--editor www.carnivorousplants.org ################### From: "Carl Strohmenger (HSC)" Date: Mon, 3 Jan 2000 15:33:33 -0500 (EST) Subject: Re: mjin hobby is vleesetende planten willy (fwd) It looks like the Dutch that a friend was studying many years ago. - Carl On Mon, 3 Jan 2000, Barry Meyers-Rice wrote: > > Hey Folks, > > I'm back from a trip, sorting through email. Can anyone translate this > piece that I got from a grower, I believe in response to some page in the > CP FAQ? > > Is this in some composite language? It almost reads as a phonetic English, > in an odd, twisted way. > > > ---------- Forwarded message ---------- > Date: Thu, 30 Dec 1999 18:39:54 +0100 > From: cassiman > Subject: mjin hobby is vleesetende planten willy > > Ik heb het adres gekregen van een vriend die mij dezelfde hobby doe als > ik. > > Ik ben opzoek naar nieuwe planten en het aan te kopen van boeken. > kunt u helpen dank u WILLY. > > > ADRES : CASSIMAN WILLY > BEIGEMSESTEENWEG,310 > 1852 BEIGEM ( GRIMBERGEN ) BELGI\313E > > --------------------- > Dr. Barry Meyers-Rice > bazza@sarracenia.com > Carnivorous Plant FAQ--author > www.sarracenia.com/faq.html > Carnivorous Plant Newsletter--editor > www.carnivorousplants.org > > ################### From: "Fred C. Heller" Date: Mon, 3 Jan 2000 22:04:30 +0100 (MET) Subject: Re: mjin hobby is vleesetende planten willy (fwd) There you go ! Happy growing Fred >I'm back from a trip, sorting through email. Can anyone translate this >piece that I got from a grower, I believe in response to some page in the >CP FAQ? >Date: Thu, 30 Dec 1999 18:39:54 +0100 >From: cassiman >Subject: mjin hobby is vleesetende planten willy My hobby is carnivorous plants >Ik heb het adres gekregen van een vriend die mij dezelfde hobby doe als >ik. I got the address from a friend of mine who has the same hobby I haveI > >Ik ben opzoek naar nieuwe planten en het aan te kopen van boeken. >kunt u helpen dank u WILLY. I'm looking for new plants and the buying of books. Could you help ? Thank you Willy > >ADDRESS : CASSIMAN WILLY >BEIGEMSESTEENWEG,310 >1852 BEIGEM ( GRIMBERGEN ) BELGIUM > >--------------------- >Dr. Barry Meyers-Rice > bazza@sarracenia.com >Carnivorous Plant FAQ--author > www.sarracenia.com/faq.html >Carnivorous Plant Newsletter--editor > www.carnivorousplants.org > > > ################### From: "Thierry Callaerts" Date: Tue, 04 Jan 2000 01:43:51 PST Subject: Utricularia dimorphanta Hello, To all a happy New Year... I have to following problem and hope someone out there can help me. My U. dimporhanta is growing very well. It has a very green colour and grows rapidely. The problem is that the 'leaves' stay very short and that it doesn't form any traps at all. Can someone help me ? I'm also looking for a drosera regia for sale. greetz, Thierry ################### From: Ed Street Date: Tue, 4 Jan 2000 06:52:40 -0500 (EST) Subject: Re: Fire ants Hello, I live in alabama on the al/ga border and we have some carpenter/fire ants in the yard, I can kick over there nest and they will just move it to the side somewhere. this summer I will definately put my s. minor's in the front yard and see what happens. Currently they are on the back porch, this past year they have gotten so full they literally topple over with the weight. When california carnivores stated they are glutonous pigs they was NOT kidding!! I will keep everyone posted as to what I find and how they work. Ed ################### From: "Susan Farrington" Date: Tue, 4 Jan 2000 07:22:53 -0600 Subject: Longwood Gardens Hi, Paul, Having lived near Philadelphia, PA most of my adult life (I moved out here to MO three years ago), I'm very familiar with Longwood Gardens. I know what you mean about their declining cp display, so I wrote a friend of mine who works there (although the cp's aren't in her area). First, your premise that Longwood Gardens has "conservatories" and should therefore be preserving rare species is flawed... Longwood has never called itself a botanical garden, nor has it ever purported to be maintaining or preserving rare plants. It was originally a DuPont estate, and its mandate is to follow that estate's wishes: it is, and always has been, primarily a display garden, not a botanical garden. If they grow cp's, it will be because the DuPonts may have had them, back when it was in fashion to grow them in hot houses, and/or because they are beautiful (NOT because they are endangered). In contrast, the institution where I work (the Missouri Botanical Garden) IS primarily a botanical garden, and its mission has ALWAYS included the goal of preserving rare and interesting species... so OUR garden could certainly be called upon to preserve cp's in any way possible. That's not to say we're doing a perfect job either: when I first came here three years ago, our once wonderful collection had declined to a mere shadow of itself. We had had a curator who was very interested in cp's, but after she left, the collection slowly degraded. That is often the case at ANY botanical garden, unfortunately. I have worked to improve and expand the collection once again, and have enlarged and improved our display a lot... I hope you can come see it someday! My friend did say, however, that Longwood certainly could have a better cp display, and the gardener in charge of them IS interested in them, so hopefully things will improve. I think if we want to encourage them, we shouldn't be on the attack, and should instead stress to them how LOVELY these plants are, and how interested people are to see them grown well. Anything that increases ticket sales, of course, always helps! Susan > I stated that I thought things were going downhill back in the > Spring... "downhill" would be a step up now. I urge everyone to mail > or email (as I have repeatedly) to Longwood Gardens to reverse this > trend. Longwood Gardens was reknowned (at one time) for having the > best selection of Nepenthes in America- they had an entire room > devoted to them- but now they have two closet sized areas in a > hallway. For a "Conservatory" to snub the single most > conservation-needing plants in the world is just plain dumb. > > Cheers, > Paul > Susan Farrington Missouri Botanical Garden P.O. Box 299 St. Louis MO 63166-0299 susan.farrington@mobot.org (314)577-9402 ################### From: Steven Stewart Date: Tue, 04 Jan 2000 08:48:09 -0500 Subject: Fire ants & Sarracenia Here in Central Florida, fire ants have become quite naturalized. I have seen populations of Sarracenia minor growing in powerline right of way almost covered to the top in fire ant mounds, with only the hood protruding. This relationship seems to cause the plants to form tall robust pitchers, but in times of drought the loose soil formed by the ants dries to a level deadly to the Sarracenia. I use a product called Amdro whenever I see any sign of fire ants. If you use it carefully only on fire ants, the native ants, ant-lions, possibly _Brachynemurus_ sp. and other ant eaters, can keep fire ant populations almost non existant. The best overall ant eating plant species I have is Nepenthes bicalcarata, many ant species love to sacrifice themselves to to the plants I have. Take care, Steven Stewart ################### From: Phil Sheridan Date: Sun, 06 Jan 1980 11:04:18 -0800 Subject: Re: pitchers and fire ants Hi Folks: Regarding pitcher plants and fire ants we have observed that S. minor does indeed capture large numbers of this insect. What is particularly interesting, and worth investigating, is a comparison of native ant captures vs. fire ant captures. Since fire ants are new to this region they have not coevolved with the Sarracenia and may be captured at higher rates than other ant species. This is an excellent project for a high school in south Georgia or a masters level project. Best, Phil Sheridan Director Meadowview Biological Research Station ################### From: CALIFCARN@aol.com Date: Tue, 4 Jan 2000 16:32:15 EST Subject: Re: Fire ants in Flytrap Country Howdy kids, Peter here at California Carnivores: I just thought I'd mention that when I went on a field trip with Larry Mellichamp and Ron Gardner a few years ago, down in the Wilmington, North Carolina area, scattered amid the flytraps and pitcher plants were nothing BUT fire ant hills. I was astounded at how many there were, like every 20 feet or so. A thousand years ago when I was going to college in Miami (Florida), I had a tank of carnivores outdoors in my backyard. One day I went out to look at them and kneeled beside the tank in the grass. I was suddenly attacked by fire ants, who didn't seem interested in the plants at all, just me! I survived (barely) about 100 very painful stings, an experience I'll never forget. Seeya. Peter ################### From: Christer Berglund Date: Wed, 05 Jan 2000 00:39:44 +0100 Subject: D. spec. "Auyan Tepui" and U. humboldtii division? Hi, Does anyone know what type of sundew D. spec. "Auyan Tepui" is, rosetted, upright, steam-forming? When propagating U. humboldtii, by division, do I need to include a leafy part with the stolon (traps) to be successful? Regards, -- Christer Berglund E-mail: christer.berglund@amiga.pp.se ################### From: "mike wilder" Date: Wed, 05 Jan 2000 00:03:20 GMT Subject: d. ordensis/pinguicula book happy new year! i have two questions: 1. i germinated d. ordensis in late spring 1999. the plants are in a mix of 8 parts sand to 2 parts peat. at this time, the rosette is about one inch in diameter, which seems small to me. the temperature never drops below 65 F, and tends to be closer to 72. i've tried varying the light intensity and humidity, but the little guys never look overly happy. can anyone who has successfully grown this species from seed share info about compost, light levels, humidity levels, and growth rates? (if you recommend a different compost, please advise whether transplanting plants of this size would be wise.)incidentally, the conditions i've had the ordensis in seem to suit d. paradoxa just fine. 2. in the back of tony camillieri's book, he cites a book on pinguicula called "pings and how to grow them", or something similar. (sorry, i don't have tony's book at hand.) i've never heard of this book; does anyone have any info about it? thanks for all--mike ################### From: "Diane Charette" Date: Tue, 4 Jan 2000 23:22:05 -0500 Subject: Heliamphora in flower Hi, I have a H. het x minor in flower right now and i wonder if these flowers are self-fertiles like D.capensis or do they need another one for making seeds? Thanx a lot Tom [HTML file part2 deleted by listprocessor] ################### From: "Susan Farrington" Date: Wed, 5 Jan 2000 06:58:58 -0600 Subject: St. Louis CPS The St. Louis Carnivorous Plant Society will be holding its next meeting January 13, 2000 at 6:30 pm at the Missouri Botanical Garden. All are welcome, beginners and experienced growers alike, kids or adults. Hope to see you there! We'll also probably be holding a "potting party" in the next couple of weeks to pot up plants for a show and sale in June. Contact me for further details. Susan Farrington Missouri Botanical Garden P.O. Box 299 St. Louis MO 63166-0299 susan.farrington@mobot.org (314)577-9402 ################### From: Rich Ellis Date: Tue, 4 Jan 2000 18:06:48 -0700 Subject: Re: d. ordensis/pinguicula book On Tue, 4 Jan 2000 16:06:45 "mike wilder" writes: > 1. i germinated d. ordensis in late spring 1999. the plants are in a mix of > 8 parts sand to 2 parts peat. at this time, the rosette is about one inch in > diameter, which seems small to me. the temperature never drops below 65 F, > and tends to be closer to 72. i've tried varying the light intensity and > humidity, but the little guys never look overly happy. can anyone who has > successfully grown this species from seed share info about compost, light > levels, humidity levels, and growth rates? (if you recommend a different > compost, please advise whether transplanting plants of this size would be > wise.)incidentally, the conditions i've had the ordensis in seem to suit d. > paradoxa just fine. The petiolaris complex to which D. ordensis belongs are happy when it is really hot. Highs in the 90-100 f range are fine. If you germinated your seed in the northern hemisphere then the plants may be in a resting state and you can decrease watering and let the plant rest till spring. As summer arrives, gradually allow them to get into the 90-100 degree range during the hottest part of the day. My D. paradoxa that I originally got from Tom Hayes aka DANGEROUS PLANTS is an awesome plant that does not seem to care what conditions are like. I have been exprimenting with growing them in pure peat, 50:50 peat sand, long fiber sphagnum moss, indoors under lights and outside in the sun. So far, none of these variables seem to matter and the plants grow and flower like crazy. Rich Boulder, Colorado http://www.geocities.com/RainForest/Vines/8564/ ################### From: Nigel Hurneyman Date: Wed, 05 Jan 2000 17:09:20 +0000 Subject: D. spec. "Auyan Tepui" and U. humboldtii division? Hi Christer, Plants I grew from Lowrie seed labelled sp'Auyan Tepui" formed spatulata-sized rosettes and had pale pink flowers. Regards, NigelH ################### From: Nigel Hurneyman Date: Wed, 05 Jan 2000 17:19:37 +0000 Subject: Re: water (by "Paul Murphy") Regarding the use of sulphuric acid, it may not alter the quantity of salts in water, but various literature I've seen (sorry, no references so this can be taken as anecdotal) suggests that the sulphates somehow mask the salts preventing their uptake by plants. Adrian Slack reportedly (another anecdote) watered his plants for a several months on tap water treated with sulphuric acid without any ill effects. I don't know how hard his tap water was to start with or whether he repotted his plants at the end of that time. Regarding alternatives to sulphuric acid, how would you rate citric acid? It is readily available from the home-brewing counter in many shops, although it seems to have a limited shelf life. Regards, NigelH ################### From: Christer Berglund Date: Wed, 05 Jan 2000 20:49:24 +0100 Subject: re: d. ordensis/- > 1. i germinated d. ordensis in late spring 1999. the plants are in a > mix of 8 parts sand to 2 parts peat. at this time, the rosette is > about one inch in diameter, which seems small to me. the temperature > never drops below 65 F, and tends to be closer to 72. i've tried > varying the light intensity and humidity, but the little guys never > look overly happy. can anyone who has successfully grown this species > from seed share info about compost, light levels, humidity levels, and > growth rates? (if you recommend a different compost, please advise > whether transplanting plants of this size would be wise.)incidentally, > the conditions i've had the ordensis in seem to suit d. paradoxa just > fine. Hi Mike, I have D. ordensis (Kununurra) which germinated in May of 1999. I sowed two batches: one on pure sphagnum peat moss, and the other on one part each of peat moss and sand, and due to my laziness they have remained in the same pots until today. The plant sizes is from approx. 1.5 cm to just short of 4 cm i diameter (some has entered dormancy). Since last summer I have been feeding them periodically quite heavily with fruitflies. As I wrote above, I haven't transplanted any of them yet and some of them is suffering from the crowding, but I plan to rectify this situation soon. The temps I keep my plants in is from the low 70's d F (21 d C) in the nighttime to low 80's d F (28 d C) in the daytime. I kept the pots in plastic bags one foot below two 18 W fluorescent light bulbs (Osram lumilux with clip-on reflectors) and one 30 W light bulb the first 5 months, but now they are in a small terrarium (fish tank). Conditions now are; light: two 15 W light bulbs, humidity: above 60 %, the temperature day/night is almost the same as before. Before they were moved into the terrarium they were exposed to lower daytime temps and lower light, for some weeks, which caused three of them to go dormant. They haven't resumed growth after that, but several other specimens (in the same pot) is in full growth. This species is definitely one of my favorites with its lovely combination of the whitish green petioles and orange red traps. Mike, what is causing you to worry about your plants? Do they grow fewer leaves, shorter leaves, no dew, or? Regards, -- Christer Berglund E-mail: christer.berglund@amiga.pp.se ################### From: "John Green" Date: Wed, 05 Jan 2000 14:01:34 -0700 Subject: Cold/Hot hardiness? I'll be re-doing my outdoor bog this spring. I'm upgrading to one of those nice hard black plastic pond forms which is about three times as large as my existing bog (thanks to my mother-in-law), and I'd like to plant something other than just S. oreophila (which is all I have outside now). Specifically I'm wondering about the cold hardiness of S. leucophylla, S. rubra, S. flava, S. purpurea venosa, and VFTs. Also wondering how well S. purpurea purpurea does in hot climates. Salt Lake City has long, cold winters with a lot of snow, and hot, dry summers in the upper 90s F (around 37-38 C). The bog will still be under the rain gutter next to the house, and I will continue to mulch it over winter. If anyone has any experience with the above I'd appreciate your comments or suggestions. Thanks in advance, John Green Salt Lake City, Utah PS - I have a few different types of pygmy gemmae I'm selling. If interested, there's a note near the bottom of the CP Trading Post, or e-mail me for details (prefer USA only). ################### From: Rich Ellis Date: Wed, 5 Jan 2000 14:53:42 -0700 Subject: Re: Cold/Hot hardiness? On Wed, 5 Jan 2000 "John Green" writes: > Specifically I'm wondering about the cold hardiness of S. > leucophylla, S. rubra, S. flava, S. purpurea venosa, and VFTs. Also > wondering how well S. purpurea purpurea does in hot climates. Howdy John I have had success with all of the species you listed with my outdoor bog in Colorado which I suspect has a similar climate to you in Utah. While S. leucophylla survived the winter here OK (with mulching) I have found that it starts to put up its best fall pitchers about the same time we start getting frosts at night here. Ultimately I think this will kill or stunt the plant but we will see. I recall Dave Evans did quite well with S. leuco in New Jersey however. The S. purpurea purpurea did well this summer (as did S. purpurea venosa). I suspect that even though the air temp is quite hot, it remains much cooler down at the level of the moss - especially since it is such a short plant. S. purpurea x leucophylla has done particularly well and perhaps makes a good comprimise? S. rubra has done well also. I have no idea where my S. flava clones originate but I would love to get some of the Virginia strains of S. flava as I think they would do very well out here. My VFTs looked great this spring but generally deteriorated over the summer. Not sure why but i would not be surprised if they do not survive the winter. Rich Boulder, Colorado http://www.geocities.com/RainForest/Vines/8564/ ################### From: Drury Date: Wed, 05 Jan 2000 17:43:32 -0600 Subject: Need U. pubescens help! I have had a U. pubescens for a year now. It stated out doing very well, producing 2 inche stolons at the surface. It has been steadily growing smaller since then. I don't understand it's dormancy, so I have kept it in a tropical enviroment since I've had it. I have it in a clear plastic cup in my terrarium. I think there is plenty of light, because my other plants are doing well enough to bloom. I do not let it sit in water. I do not let it dry out. It is potted in mostly long fiber sphagnum, with some orchid medium. It has produced some root system, but not much. I understand it is a epiphytic utric. , that is why I put it in such a coarse medium. Don Drury ################### From: Drury Date: Wed, 05 Jan 2000 17:55:06 -0600 Subject: OOps! I ment U. longifolia When I complained about my poor U.pubescens, I was confused and really ment U. longifolia. I'm Sorry Don Drury http://www.chouteautel.com/~drury-ct/ ################### From: "Dave Evans" Date: Wed, 5 Jan 2000 19:52:17 -0500 Subject: Re: OOps! I ment U. longifolia Sorry Don, U. longifolia doesn't have tubers either. Does it loose all it's leaves when it goes dormant? Dave Evans ################### From: "Dave Evans" Date: Wed, 5 Jan 2000 19:57:47 -0500 Subject: Re: Need U. pubescens help! I think the trick to these plants is they need a natural lighting cycle for the year. I have seen a couple very happy clones of U.longifolia in a greenhouse, but mine under lights from cuttings of these clones are never as happy. But I'm trying out 10-11 hours of light on the some plants, like these Utrics and some of those finicky winter growing Drosera and they are doing better... Dave Evans P.S. I don't think U.longifolia grows very fast anyway. > I have had a U. pubescens for a year now. It stated out doing very well, producing 2 inche stolons at the surface. > It has been steadily growing smaller since then. I don't understand it's dormancy, so I have kept it in a tropical enviroment since I've had it. I have it in a clear plastic cup in my terrarium. I think there is plenty of light, because my other plants are doing well enough to bloom. I do not let it sit in water. I do not let it dry out. It is potted in mostly long fiber sphagnum, with some orchid medium. It has produced some root system, but not much. I understand it is a epiphytic utric. , that is why I put it in such a coarse medium. > > Don Drury > > ################### From: "Greg Bourke" Date: Thu, 06 Jan 2000 15:37:17 EST Subject: B. hechtioides G'day, I recently acquired some B. hechtioides seed which I have germinated. They are two weeks old now and naturally are growing quite slow. Could anyone tell me how to cultivate them (light levels, potting mix etc.)? Also any info on how and where they grow in their natural habitat? ################### From: "Pierre GELINAUD" Date: Thu, 6 Jan 2000 13:44:37 +0900 Subject: Utricularia dimorphanta Hi thierry If your U. dimorphanta grows well but without traps, perhaps it needs something more like CO2, but I'm not sure. Mine are growing slowly now and with few big traps (one for 3 or 4 leaves). I use (a little) some feeding for aquarium plants to provide B, Mn, Co, Fe ... and a CO2 diffuser. The CO2 concentration is around 18 mg/l. Pierre Gelinaud http://www.multimania.com/piilou/ http://www.ii-okinawa.ne.jp/people/a-miya/ piilou@pop.multimania.com [HTML file part2 deleted by listprocessor] ################### From: "Susan Farrington" Date: Thu, 6 Jan 2000 07:40:23 -0600 Subject: outdoor bogs and VFT Rich, Is if possible your VFT's were too wet this summer? I've certainly seen that they hate being water logged all the time, and need to be a bit higher and drier than Sarracenia. One person I know in Illinois with an outdoor bog says he put logs along the edge of his bog, raising the media in that region, and plants his VFT's in that raised section. Susan > My VFTs looked great this spring but generally deteriorated over the > summer. Not sure why but i would not be surprised if they do not survive > the winter. > > Rich > Susan Farrington Missouri Botanical Garden P.O. Box 299 St. Louis MO 63166-0299 susan.farrington@mobot.org (314)577-9402 ################### From: Steven Stewart Date: Thu, 06 Jan 2000 10:02:54 -0500 Subject: Sarracenia in CO &Utricularia On the subject of Sarracenia grown outdoors in Colorado, USA. I did quite a bit of experimentation in the 1970's in Greeley and Boulder. The main problems I found were short growing seasons, with plants producing their best foliage during the 60-70F. warm periods, followed by -10F cold periods. The soft growth of the rhizome would split and rot, even Sarr. purpurea was fooled into growth during Colrado's January & Febrary Chinook(warm) winds. I'm not familiar with Utah winters, but I would think if you can keep your plants in a reliable state of dormancy it will help. My Utricularia longifolia (thank's Jay)are now sending up their first inflorescence. The plants I have are fast growing but it has been a over a year of growing time, in a greenhouse using long-fibered Sphagnum and full drainage. Take care, Steven Stewart Sanford, Fl. ################### From: Michael Vanecek Date: Thu, 06 Jan 2000 10:10:03 -0600 Subject: Re: outdoor bogs and VFT What online reseller sells CP safe fungicide? I need some yesterday, and there isn't anything local... -- Cheers, Mike http://dotfile.net/ mailto:info@dotfile.net <-------------------------------------------------> "My zeal to start using Linux is stronger than my fear of looking like a dummy." --Some Wise Man <-------------------------------------------------> Why does Sea World have a seafood restaurant? I'm halfway through my fishburger and I realize, Oh my God....I could be eating a slow learner. ################### From: "Fred C. Heller" Date: Thu, 6 Jan 2000 18:46:53 +0100 (MET) Subject: Re: outdoor bogs and VFT I use one called Topsin that you can find in any gardening store (at least in europe) without problems. The thing is to dilute it enough. It's systemic as well. Fred At 08:13 06/01/2000 -0800, you wrote: >What online reseller sells CP safe fungicide? I need some yesterday, and >there isn't anything local... > >-- >Cheers, >Mike > >http://dotfile.net/ >mailto:info@dotfile.net ><-------------------------------------------------> >"My zeal to start using Linux is stronger than my >fear of looking like a dummy." --Some Wise Man ><-------------------------------------------------> >Why does Sea World have a seafood restaurant? I'm >halfway through my fishburger and I realize, Oh my >God....I could be eating a slow learner. > > ################### From: "Fernando Rivadavia-Lopes" Date: Thu, 6 Jan 2000 17:48:24 -0200 Subject: Re: OOps! I ment U. longifolia Dear Don, >>When I complained about my poor U.pubescens, I was confused and really ment U. longifolia. >U. longifolia doesn't have tubers either. Does it loose all it's leaves >when it goes dormant? Nor is U.longifolia epiphytic....... Nor does it go dormant........ Nor is it exactly tropical (it grows on cool highlands)........ Good luck, Fernando Rivadavia Sao Paulo, Brazil ################### From: Michael Vanecek Date: Thu, 06 Jan 2000 14:05:33 -0600 Subject: fungicide [was Re: outdoor bogs and VFT] I found their site, but there wasn't any help for a small time buyer like myself. Any online nursuries in the states carrying this stuff? "Fred C. Heller" wrote: > > I use one called Topsin that you can find in any gardening store (at least in europe) without problems. The thing is to dilute it enough. It's systemic as well. > Fred > > At 08:13 06/01/2000 -0800, you wrote: > >What online reseller sells CP safe fungicide? I need some yesterday, and > >there isn't anything local... > > > >-- > >Cheers, > >Mike > > > >http://dotfile.net/ > >mailto:info@dotfile.net > ><-------------------------------------------------> > >"My zeal to start using Linux is stronger than my > >fear of looking like a dummy." --Some Wise Man > ><-------------------------------------------------> > >Why does Sea World have a seafood restaurant? I'm > >halfway through my fishburger and I realize, Oh my > >God....I could be eating a slow learner. > > > > -- Cheers, Mike http://dotfile.net/ mailto:info@dotfile.net <-------------------------------------------------> "My zeal to start using Linux is stronger than my fear of looking like a dummy." --Some Wise Man <-------------------------------------------------> Why does Sea World have a seafood restaurant? I'm halfway through my fishburger and I realize, Oh my God....I could be eating a slow learner. ################### From: Christer Berglund Date: Thu, 06 Jan 2000 22:49:52 +0100 Subject: re:D. spec. "Auyan Tepui" ...) > Hi Christer, > > Plants I grew from Lowrie seed labelled sp'Auyan Tepui" formed > spatulata-sized rosettes and had pale pink flowers. > > Regards, NigelH Hi Nigel, Thanks for your reply. I have newly germinated seedlings which originate from seed purchased from Lowrie, and now I have an idea of what to expect when they are adult. Thanks again, -- Christer Berglund E-mail: christer.berglund@amiga.pp.se ################### From: CALIFCARN@aol.com Date: Thu, 6 Jan 2000 17:02:11 EST Subject: Re: Cold hardy plants Howdydoo, Peter here at California Carnivores. I enjoy reading about John and Rich's plans and experience with Sarracenia outdoors in cold temperate climates. I keep getting reports from customers who tell me things I mentioned in The Savage Garden concerning cold hardiness. It may be the mild winters of late, but there are folks as far north as Chicago who have been having success with Sarracenia in bog gardens outdoors. At the last Bay Area meeting, Joe Mazrimas showed outdoor bog gardens in Vermont that for years have had S. flava and other plants survive year after year. Here at our nursery I've been breeding Sarracenia for cold hardiness. One plant we have in stock is S. purpurea ssp. purpurea x flava (mature plants for $20). I also have a single large plant of the Virginia S. flava (not for sale yet) that I hope to use for breeding purposes. After I received this clone, I was amazed at how beautiful it is, and very tall. It's a very veiny form of S. flava, and should make a nice match for other cold hardy Sarracenia like S. rubra ssp. jonesii and oreophila. I would like this year to cross it with the purp purp x flava I mentioned, which is a purple but small plant. Th-th-th-that's all folks! ################### From: "Fred C. Heller" Date: Thu, 6 Jan 2000 23:15:12 +0100 (MET) Subject: Re: fungicide [was Re: outdoor bogs and VFT] either ask them where they sell it in the US http://www.elf-atochem.com/newelf/agchem/contactus.html Or contact Peter D'Amato and see what he's got to offer : California Carnivores 7020 Trenton-Healdsburg Rd. Forestville, CA 95436 Voice: (707) 838-1630 Fax: (707) 838-9899 email: califcarn@aol.com http://californiacarnivores.com/ Or use a systemic fungicide that you dilute more than it should be, do not spray it directly on the plants as it could burn them but on the sphagnum around them. Happy growing Fred At 12:07 06/01/2000 -0800, you wrote: >I found their site, but there wasn't any help for a small time buyer >like myself. Any online nursuries in the states carrying this stuff? > >"Fred C. Heller" wrote: >> >> I use one called Topsin that you can find in any gardening store (at least in europe) without problems. The thing is to dilute it enough. It's systemic as well. >> Fred >> >> At 08:13 06/01/2000 -0800, you wrote: >> >What online reseller sells CP safe fungicide? I need some yesterday, and >> >there isn't anything local... >> > >> >-- >> >Cheers, >> >Mike >> > >> >http://dotfile.net/ >> >mailto:info@dotfile.net >> ><-------------------------------------------------> >> >"My zeal to start using Linux is stronger than my >> >fear of looking like a dummy." --Some Wise Man >> ><-------------------------------------------------> >> >Why does Sea World have a seafood restaurant? I'm >> >halfway through my fishburger and I realize, Oh my >> >God....I could be eating a slow learner. >> > >> > > >-- >Cheers, >Mike > >http://dotfile.net/ >mailto:info@dotfile.net ><-------------------------------------------------> >"My zeal to start using Linux is stronger than my >fear of looking like a dummy." --Some Wise Man ><-------------------------------------------------> >Why does Sea World have a seafood restaurant? I'm >halfway through my fishburger and I realize, Oh my >God....I could be eating a slow learner. > > ################### From: JDPDX@aol.com Date: Thu, 6 Jan 2000 17:17:08 EST Subject: Growing Outdoors: Photos I'm trying to tackle a problem. I'm a small grower/reseller of CP in the Pacific Northwest. Most of my clientle are first-time buyers who haven't a clue about how to grow CP, but have had plenty of experience killing Venus Flytraps, and are very well-versed in the abundant misinformation that is out there. They would like to try CP, but are afraid of them. Here in the Northwest, west of the Cascade range, all of the Sarracenia, Venus Flytraps, temperate sundews and butterworts all grow very well in our climate outdoors. It's often hard to convince people of that. I'm looking for photos any of you might have that show CP growing outdoors in bog gardens, container gardens, alongside ponds, on patios, pictures with snow on Sarracenia, hanging baskets, etc... E-mail me if you have anything you would like to share. It will help many people new to growing CP to be successful. I would love to see the day when a small savage garden is as common on a sunny patio as are petunias. Jeff Dallas Sarracenia Northwest ################### From: "Fred C. Heller" Date: Thu, 6 Jan 2000 23:45:14 +0100 (MET) Subject: Belgian Bog garden I have started a small bog garden in my back yard which contains two Sarracenia hybrid, two Sarracenia Leucophylla, Three Sarracenia purpurrea ssp. purpurrea, three Sarracenia psittacina and three Venus Flytraps. It's about half a square meter big ! two third of it are a pond (Where I set some U. Vulgaris) a foot deep, the remaining third is a mix of 2/3 peat and 1/3 sand. The Sarracenia are in the back, a bit higher up, near the water's edge I've placed the S. psittacina and a VFT. The one VFT that was partially shaded by some leaves thrived whereas the one enjoying full sun died. I planted them back in March, and had quite a fit with birds destroying my Sarracenia to get at the insects trapped inside. Then a VFT and a Sarracenia purpurrea ssp purp. died off for no apparent reason. I wanted to remove one Sarracenia psittacina and but it in the garage for the winter but I was too lazy to do it ;-) It's doing just fine ! Actually it kept getting more and more colors with time. My Sarracenia purp. ssp. purp. actually were quite beautiful in October, being green with deep purple veins, but only turned completely deep purple red color in November (I don't know why). The Sarracenia Leucophylla kept look healthy and protrude from the heap of leaves that I set on top of all the bog plants. All are going well . As it is winter I have covered them with a stack of birch tree leaves from my yard, they've been under snow already, the pond has frozen over a couple times (for a few days at a time) but they seem to be doing ok , all of them. I'm not sure if the VFTs are gonna survive the winter here in Belgium but it has been a mild winter so far. I also scattered some D. Intermedia and D. rotundifolia in late September, those come from the Ardennes near Spa, from the "Fagne de Malchamps", those are the wild form ;-) I still have seeds collected in late august and kept in the fridge since if ever... Fred At 14:07 06/01/2000 -0800, you wrote: >Howdydoo, Peter here at California Carnivores. > I enjoy reading about John and Rich's plans and experience with >Sarracenia outdoors in cold temperate climates. I keep getting reports >from customers who tell me things I mentioned in The Savage Garden >concerning cold hardiness. It may be the mild winters of late, but >there are folks as far north as Chicago who have been having success >with Sarracenia in bog gardens outdoors. At the last Bay Area meeting, >Joe Mazrimas showed outdoor bog gardens in Vermont that for years have >had S. flava and other plants survive year after year. Here at our >nursery I've been breeding Sarracenia for cold hardiness. One plant we >have in stock is S. purpurea ssp. purpurea x flava (mature plants for >$20). I also have a single large plant of the Virginia S. flava (not >for sale yet) that I hope to use for breeding purposes. After I >received this clone, I was amazed at how beautiful it is, and very >tall. It's a very veiny form of S. flava, and should make a nice match >for other cold hardy Sarracenia like S. rubra ssp. jonesii and >oreophila. I would like this year to cross it with the purp purp x >flava I mentioned, which is a purple but small plant. > Th-th-th-that's all folks! > > > > ################### From: DGolde1404@aol.com Date: Thu, 6 Jan 2000 18:54:19 EST Subject: Re: CP'ers in Connecticut I live in Connecticut. I would like to create a list of people in the tri-state area who also raise C.P.s. This would be for the purposes of plant and information exchange. Perhaps a mini-symposium could be arranged or a membership trip to an interesting site or arboretum. Please contact me via this list if you would be interested. ################### From: (Howard J. Wu L.Ac) Date: Thu, 6 Jan 2000 20:28:36 +0000 Subject: Growing U. longifolia On growing U. longifolia: This plant grows like a weed for me in live sphagnum under fluorescence. I put some in a tall recycled plastic cookie container then seal it to keep it in constant high humidity. It will fill the container in a few months. However after a point the growth will slow down unless I divided it and give it more sphagnum. While CP's "don't like to be fertilized", obviously they can only get as large as available nutrients allow in a closed system as would any plant. I can see lots of tiny traps along the sides of the container over time so it must be hungry for something... Incidently, this strain has never bloomed for me or anyone else I know who had it. However, I have a plant given to me as 'U. endressi' which may just be a 'dwarf U. longifolia.' This plant last summer gave me several purple flowers with yellow on it that looks just like U. longifolia picture in a book. I grew this the same way. Howard J. Wu Bishop Ca. mrwu@qnet.com ################### From: "Joe Harden" Date: Fri, 7 Jan 2000 08:37:52 -0600 Subject: Cocofiber Pots I was in search of some hanging baskets for my Nepenthes x coccinea, and came across some nice ones lined with Cocofiber, which claimes to come from coconuts. I have no idea if this will help my digestive system as regular fiber, but thats no concern... Does anyone have experience with cocofiber & Carnivorous Plants? Joe www.carnivorous-kingdom.com ################### From: "John Green" Date: Fri, 07 Jan 2000 08:59:13 -0700 Subject: S. leucophylla "Tarnok" Is this cultivar very widespread in cultivation yet? I've searched all the web sites I usually frequent and couldn't find it anywhere. I just found some pictures of it last night in an old CPN (Dec 93 - the only year I was a member) and would love to add it to my collection. Thanks, John Green Salt Lake City, Utah ################### From: "John Green" Date: Fri, 07 Jan 2000 08:59:11 -0700 Subject: Re: Cold hardiness Thanks to everyone who responded to my questions. I hadn't even considered the length of the growing season with S. leucophylla, but I'll try it anyway. I'll also take Susan's advice and try to plant the VFTs a bit higher and drier. Boy! Now I can't wait for spring so I can get started on it! > I'm not familiar with Utah winters, but I would think if > you can keep your plants in a reliable state of dormancy > it will help. As for keeping the plants dormant, a thick layer of mulch seems to help. I didn't remove it last spring till the beginning of March, and it was still pretty cold at that time. I'll keep the list posted on what works and what doesn't. I've used regular straw as a mulch the last two years, but next fall I'm going to try to find enough pine needles to cover it over (not too many pines in my neighborhood, mostly spruces). As for Mike looking for a fungicide, I've used Captan (I think) mixing it about 1/4 strength, and it seems to work well without any harmful effects. Thanks again, John Green Salt Lake City, Utah ################### From: "Fernando Rivadavia-Lopes" Date: Fri, 7 Jan 2000 14:06:16 -0200 Subject: More New Drosera from Down Under.... To all, I just received volume 13, number 1 of Nuytsia from Allen Lowrie with several papers of his. All deal with the triggerplants (Stylidium spp.) except for one article about the yellow-flowered tuberous sundews. The title is: "A taxonomic review of the yellow-flowered tuberous species of _Drosera_ (Droseraceae) from south-west Western Australia". Here's the abstract for those interested: "Five tuberous species of _Drosera_ (Droseraceae) with yellow flowers are endemic in south-west Western Australia. They all belong in _Drosera_ sect._Ergaleium_ (DC.) Planchon. Descriptions and illustrations are presented for four of these species: _Drosera subhirtella_ Planchon, _D.moorei_ (Diels) Lowrie _com.nov._, _D.zigzagia_ Lowrie _sp.nov._, and _D.intricata_ Planchon, which is reinstated. These four species are closely related and are collectively refered to here as the _Drosera subhirtella_ complex. The only other tuberous species to have yellow flowers is _Drosera sulphurea_ Lehm., which is reinstated here as distinct from its closest relative, the pink-flowered _D.neesii_ Lehm. Although not closely related to the _Drosera subhirtella_ complex, _D.sulphurea_ can be confused with members of that group and therefore a key to all five yellow-flowered species is provided." So for all of you who have Lowrie's Volume 1, go get your books to take a look at what's new. There were only two subspecies of _D.subhirtella_ in there: subsp._subhirtella_ and subsp._moorei_. Both of these are now seperate species. As for _D.intricata_ (nice name for a climbing tuberous sundew, huh?), this species is now recognized by Allen as being a truly valid species, after having remained a synonym of _D.subhirtella_ for decades. Now _D.zigzagia_ was for me the most interesting part of the paper. This is a truly new species unidentified by anyone else previously. It has a short erect stem (5-7cm) which, as the name says, is zig-zagged between each leaf axil. Now that's what I call an original name for a CP! What a fertile imagination Allen must have to still not have run out of names after so many new species of CP and triggerplants accumulated over these past decades! Anyways, the only part of the paper which was not too clear for me were the changes made to the _D.neesii_ complex. In his Volume 1, Allen included _D.neesii_ subsp._neesii_ and subsp._borealis_. One of the main characteristics distinguishing these two was that the former had yellow flowers and the latter pink. Now in this most recent paper, Allen claims that _D.sulphurea_ (another pretty name I'd hate to see thrown away!) is easily distinguishable from _D.neesii_ because, among other things, the former has yellow flowers and the latter (both subsp.) have pink flowers. Am I missing an article? Apparently, somewhere along the taxonomic line since Lowrie's Volume 1 and this latest paper, _D.neesii_ subsp._neesii_ must have been considered as including both pink and yellow flowered specimens, for the yellow flowered ones to be now separated as _D.sulphurea_. Reading Allen's Volume 1, I see that what he refers to as subsp._neesii_ is what he now calls _D.sulphurea_ while what he refers to as subsp._borealis_ includes both subsp._neesii_ and subsp_borealis_ as described in his latest paper (differentiated mainly by tuber color). Most likely, he must have realized at some point that the yellow-flowered specimens did not correspond to the type specimens of _D.neesii_, but to that of _D.sulphurea_ and that what he called subsp._borealis_ in his Volume 1 included both the type specimens of _D.neesii_ (dark maroon tuber) and subsp._borealis_ (white tubers). Well, either way I'm sure future books or papers of Allen's reviewing other species complexes will clear this story up, as well as continuously add more species to the already humongous list from that CP-rich corner of the world. Best Wishes, Fernando Rivadavia Sao Paulo, Brazil ################### From: Barry Meyers-Rice Date: Fri, 7 Jan 2000 08:21:22 -0800 (PST) Subject: Cold hardy, heat tolerant Sarracenia >year after year. Here at our nursery I've been breeding Sarracenia for >cold hardiness. One plant we have in stock is S. purpurea ssp. purpurea x >flava (mature plants for $20). I also have a single large plant of the >Virginia S. Hey Peter, Meanwhile, in the other direction, I've been keeping my eyes open for plants that survive well in the HEAT! Too many Sarracenia get all ratty and crispy, when grown by desert dwellers. In the next issue of CPN we will have a new Sarracenia cultivar that is a good plant for blast furnace cultivators! Barry ------------------------ Dr. Barry A. Meyers-Rice Carnivorous Plant Newsletter Conservation Coeditor barry@carnivorousplants.org http://www.carnivorousplants.org ################### From: Barry Meyers-Rice Date: Fri, 7 Jan 2000 08:37:08 -0800 (PST) Subject: ICPS pick of the day Hey folks, So I've just been informed that the ICPS site, www.carnivorousplants.org, is the web site pick of the day at http://www.ulysse.net/xtr/ I took a look at the site. Very arty. Very, uh, something. Barry ------------------------ Dr. Barry A. Meyers-Rice Carnivorous Plant Newsletter Conservation Coeditor barry@carnivorousplants.org http://www.carnivorousplants.org ################### From: Barry Meyers-Rice Date: Fri, 7 Jan 2000 09:06:16 -0800 (PST) Subject: Trifid Hey folks Yet another posting.... I just got my issue of Trifid, produced by the Czech society Darwiniana. Excellent congratulations are due to this society. While I cannot read the text (!), the blend of articles looks great. I just love the line drawings in the issue---they have a great group of artists! Cheers Barry ------------------------ Dr. Barry A. Meyers-Rice Carnivorous Plant Newsletter Conservation Coeditor barry@carnivorousplants.org http://www.carnivorousplants.org ################### From: Marianne Perdomo Machin Date: Fri, 07 Jan 2000 17:58:16 +0000 Subject: Re: OOps! I ment U. longifolia >>U. longifolia doesn't have tubers either. Does it loose all it's leaves >>when it goes dormant? > Nor is U.longifolia epiphytic....... > Nor does it go dormant........ > Nor is it exactly tropical (it grows on cool highlands)........ Oops! But it is listed as a tropical epiphyte in "The Savage Garden"... though the intro to the list mentions some of these being highland tropicals [epiphytes]. Is the "dry winter rest period" at least true? Marianne ################### From: jneps Date: Fri, 07 Jan 2000 13:35:54 -0700 Subject: CPN Back Issue Hi, Just wondering if anyone out there has an extra copy of CPN vol. 20, nos. 1 and 2. If so, please email me privately. Thanks! Jeff Shafer ################### From: "Fernando Rivadavia-Lopes" Date: Fri, 7 Jan 2000 18:26:39 -0200 Subject: New Nepenthes species To all, I'm sure all the Nep freaks must know about this one, but here it goes. I've just received from my friend Charles Clarke a paper of his on a new species of _Nepenthes_ from Kelantan, Peninsular Malaysia. It was published in Sandakania 13 (1999): 79-87. The title is: "_Nepenthes benstonei_ (Nepenthaceae), a new pitcher plant from Peninsular Malaysia". Apparently these plants from Peninsular Malaysia were previously refered to as N.sanguinea and may also be confused with N.macrovulgaris. A few of the differences are that _N.benstonei_ may have multiple inflorescences, has terete stems, hairs on leaf upper surfaces, persistent branched red hairs on leaf margins on rosettes and short shoots, and the list continues. There are no drawings, but some nice pics (one in color even). In the acknowledgements, Charles cites my friend Bruce Salmon from New Zealand (Hi Bruce!) as having provided photos and info on the type location, Bukit Bakar. Hey! Bruce and I found this place together during our week-long trip in the area in mid 1997! That was the first time I saw wild Neps. We didn't find many species on that trip, in fact it took us a LOOOONG time to find any Neps at all. The first CP we saw was actually _U.caerulea_. Anyways, _N.sanguinea_ -- now _N.benstonei_ -- was the first and most common Nep species we saw in Peninsular Malaysia, if I remember well. The lower pitchers were especially colorful and some very large too. A real beauty! Congratulations to Charles!!!!! Best Wishes, Fernando Rivadavia Sao Paulo, Brazil ################### From: 8357737 Date: Sat, 8 Jan 2000 21:43:58 -0600 Subject: S. purpurea Hi John, You asked about growing Sarracenia purpurea outside in Salt Lake. I live in northern Minnesota and S. purpurea grows wild here. I don't think you can beat our winters. We often get 30 to 40 degrees below 0 (F) and purpurea does not mind at all. We also get 90 above in the summer, but with very high humidity. If your bog stays humid enough then purpurea should be an easy one for you. Other cp that grow wild here (and therefore are very hardy!) are Drosera anglica, D. intermedia, D. linearis, D. rotundifolia, a cross anglica x rotundifolia, x obovata, and Pinguicula vulgaris. Hope that helps you some. Anyway you can't freeze them out. bye, Anita [HTML file part2 deleted by listprocessor] ################### From: "William M. Gorum, Jr." Date: Fri, 07 Jan 2000 23:56:17 -0600 Subject: Nepenthes questions..... Hey Listmembers.... I've got several Nepenthes questions for you. After posting a question to the list about making cuttings, I decided to try a cutting from my N. alata and my N. gracilis. The advice I got from the list was wonderful...now I'm wondering what to expect next.... 1. i had enough live sphagnum to wrap the stem of the N. alata, but it wouldn't fill the pot, so I filled the pot with long fibered sphagnum. The cutting is about a week old and I left three leaves on it...at the base of each leaf there seems to be a bud sprouting. I know that Neps have dormant buds at the base of each leaf.... Is it normal to have three buds on a cutting? The cutting is growing in the same tank as my other Neps and they're pitchering like crazy, so I know the growing conditions are right. Do need to sit the cutting in water or just keep the moss moist? How wet does it need to be? 2. I read in the SAVAGE GARDEN where N. gracilis can be rooted in water. I didn't treat the cutting with rooting hormone, and I set it in a beaker of distilled water, with only part of the stem in the water. The cutting seems to be fine. Is that a proper procedure? It's in the same conditons as the above cutting. 3. The leaves on my N. mirabilis have turned red. The plant is producing pitchers on each new leaf it grows. It's in a 40 gallon long tank with 4 36" fluorescent lights on it? I'm assuming the red color is from the light intensity. Am I right? 4. I have a N. truncata and a N. fusca that seem to be growing much slower than my other Neps. They're pitchering well, but they don't seem to be acquiring much size....do these two specied just grow slower than others? Thanks for the help!! TTYL and happy growing!! Will wgorum@softdisk.com ################### From: (Howard J. Wu L.Ac) Date: Fri, 7 Jan 2000 22:54:52 +0000 Subject: More comments on U. longifolia More comments on U. longifolia: >U. longifolia doesn't have tubers either. Does it loose all it's >leaves >>>when it goes dormant? >> Nor is U.longifolia epiphytic....... >> Nor does it go dormant........ >> Nor is it exactly tropical (it grows on cool >highlands)........ > >Oops! But it is listed as a tropical epiphyte in "The Savage Garden"... >though the intro to the list mentions some of these being highland >tropicals [epiphytes]. >Is the "dry winter rest period" at least true? > >Marianne Who said the tropics must be hot and humid. This was the mistake that Victorian orchid grower orginally assumed putting their poor plants in hot steamy houses. Then one day somebody opened a window, let some fresh air in and these frail plants prove themselve hardy and easier to care for. Also Rain forest have many different microclimates depending on where in the canopy you are. Near the equator they don't get summer and winter seasons but may have dry and wet seasons. Never been there, but that is what I'm told. I would love to learn more specifics about U. longifolia's ecological niche. If it doesn't grow on trees (epiphyte), how does it grow? For just big leaves it sure has tiny traps. Lack of tubers suggest to me that it doesn't come from a region with a prolonged dry season. My U. longifolia doesn't appreciate low humidity when growing at all. But when well established perhaps it could tolerate it. Maybe this is why it hasn't bloomed for me. Producing seeds sounds like a good strategy for surviving an occasional drought. By the way, does anyone know where one can pick up a copy of Peter Taylor's Monograph on Utricularia? I know it is out of print. Seen a friend copy and I must have one for my very own!! Howard J. Wu Bishop Ca. mrwu@qnet.com ################### From: bruce dudley Date: Sat, 8 Jan 2000 05:17:35 -0800 (PST) Subject: Re: www.ulysee.net/xtr Hi Barry, You're right about this site - very "something", but not family rated! I'm all for free advertising so if they give ICPS nice publicity it won't hurt too much. Strange, though, would carnivorous plant pictures "interest" the person who would look at this site??? I guess maybe some pitcher plants do look,...er, well, you know! Kind of.... like, related to human anatomy. In the distant sense. Thanks for the new web site. Bruce Talk to your friends online with Yahoo! Messenger. http://im.yahoo.com ################### From: "Sundew Sundew" Date: Sat, 8 Jan 2000 11:29:56 -0500 Subject: Germination experiment (Lowrie Drosera seed) My buddy Richard sent me some seed purchased from Allen Lowrie. I'd never done business with Lowrie in the past but heard the quantities were small. Well, they definitely were. I decided that, since I could easily count the seed in each packet, I would try to share my germination results with everyone. I typically get what I would consider excellent germination. I just planted the following seed from Lowrie, number of seed per packet: Heliamphora sp. Neblina, 3 (!!) Drosera kaieteurensis, 15 fulva, Howard River, 13 broomensis, Lake Campion, 40 kennyalli, Mitchell Plateau, 12 caduca, pink flower, Mt. Elizabeth, 11 derbyensis, Prison Tree, 18 columbiana?, Miranto, 30 villosa, It.Peak, 24 glanduligera, 40 caledonica, 9 :( from other friends: affinis Namibia, 36 hilaris, 20 arenicola, 34 Seed was planted in small plastic cups filled 1/2 way with straight peat moss and then topped off with "no damp off" = dead milled sphagnum. Surface of pots were then lightly misted with distilled water. Cups sit in about 1 cm of water in a plastic container and were sealed in a baggie placed in a dimly lit area away close to my fluorescent light setup. I avoid placing seed pots under bright conditions because slime mold, algae and moss will sometimes grow faster than the CP seed germinates. Temperature for the cooler growers will be 55-75F, temp for the petiolarises, affinis and caledonica will range from 65-85. I hope to have an update for everyone within 2 months or so. :) Happy growing! Matt [HTML file part2 deleted by listprocessor] ################### From: Bryan and Leslie Lorber Date: Sat, 08 Jan 2000 16:32:16 -0500 Subject: Re: More comments on U. longifolia Hi: It's been reprinted in paperback. A bit pricey but well worth it. Try the following site. http://wwwh.balogh.com Regards, Bryan Charlotte, VT " (Howard J. Wu L.Ac)" wrote: > By the way, does anyone know where one can pick up a copy of Peter > Taylor's Monograph on Utricularia? I know it is out of print. Seen a > friend copy and I must have one for my very own!! > Howard J. Wu > Bishop Ca. > mrwu@qnet.com ################### From: Steven Stewart Date: Sat, 08 Jan 2000 17:48:55 -0500 Subject: Heat Tolerant Sarracenia > > Hey Peter, > > Meanwhile, in the other direction, I've been keeping my eyes open for > plants that survive well in the HEAT! Too many Sarracenia get all ratty > and crispy, when grown by desert dwellers. In the next issue of CPN we > will have a new Sarracenia cultivar that is a good plant for blast furnace > cultivators! > > Barry I second the motion when it comes to heat tolerance! I have a few Sarracenia species I've grown with true year around success in the Florida heat. Sarracenia rubra and S.minor will grow well. My S.leucophylla and S.flava grow beautifully, but I rarely get any flowers. The most tolerant all-round Sarracenia I have is the hybrid S. x formosa (S.minor x S.psittacina). I don't know about it's cold tolerance levels, but it will grow as an emergent aquatic for months at a time and isn't picky about the kind water as much as most Sarr.. Now I want heat tolerant Darlingtonia, Nepenthes villosa, N. rajah,... If you all could work on that I would like it very much!! Take care, Steven Stewart I.B.W. Enterprises Inc. Sanford, Fl ################### From: Steven Stewart Date: Sat, 08 Jan 2000 17:58:12 -0500 Subject: Nepenthes in Peat-sand I recall Dr. Shafer wrote of growing Nepenthes rajah in peat-sand. Do you, or does anyone grow any other Nepenthes species in this mix? I have grown many N.ventricosa in peat-sand, but the one N.rafflesiana I tried did not like it a bit. Take care, Steven Stewart Sanford, Fl. ################### From: "Fred C. Heller" Date: Sun, 9 Jan 2000 01:20:54 +0100 (MET) Subject: Re: Nepenthes in Peat-sand I've transplated a small Nepenthes vieillardii in a peat/sand mix 2/1 and it's thriving ! It's still quite small (traps 7 mm tall 3-4 wide) but has six-eight traps. I've put it in an incubator, a kindo small greenhouse. The mother plant is still in its pot, Ithink it's nealry pure peat, it's near a west facing windowsill and is thriving as well. Fred At 14:56 08/01/2000 -0800, you wrote: >I recall Dr. Shafer wrote of growing Nepenthes rajah in peat-sand. Do >you, or does anyone grow any other Nepenthes species in this mix? I have >grown many N.ventricosa in peat-sand, but the one N.rafflesiana I tried >did not like it a bit. >Take care, >Steven Stewart >Sanford, Fl. > > ################### From: Steve Hinkson Date: Sat, 08 Jan 2000 17:26:45 -0800 Subject: Blast Furnace? "we will have a new Sarracenia cultivar that is a good plant for blast furnace cultivators!" Oh! Barry, that IS good news ! *Grin* Post it here, as well? Some of us don't do hard copies...LOL, I'm begining to forget how to use a pen ! Steve Drop by and see me at : http://www.geocities.com/HotSprings/Spa/6811 ################### From: CMcdon0923@aol.com Date: Sat, 8 Jan 2000 23:39:00 EST Subject: Cp and Fire Ants... I live just north of Dallas, and naturally we have LOTS of 'em here. And while the little *&%$@#'s may be beneficial to our CP from a nutritional point (haven't noticed any in mine). Until I moved to Texas three years ago (from Pennsylvania), I couldn't understand how something like an iddy-biddy ANT could receive so much attention. Trust me, they deserve it! Remember this rule: Fire ants MUST die the most painful, horrific, sadistic, prolonged, and excruciating death possible. If you've ever been bitten by one, I'm sure you agree. Fire ants....God's way of saying....."Size doesn't matter." Craig McDonald Frisco, Texas ################### From: Tim Malcolm Date: Sat, 8 Jan 2000 23:31:20 -0800 (PST) Subject: Re: More comments on U. longifolia Taylor's monograph is also available from the Kew website at www.rbgkew.org.uk. I got my copy there. The service wasn't that great, but the price might be better, depending on where you're ordering from. ------------------------ Tim Malcolm malcol01@camosun.bc.ca ################### From: "Mauro" Date: Sun, 9 Jan 2000 12:31:44 -0200 Subject: "Keiki on Dionaea flower stem" Sorry for the orchid term, but my Dionaeas are growing small plants in their flower stems, is this a normal behavior? I've posted a few video captures of them in my PhotoPoint album: http://albums.photopoint.com/j/AlbumList?u=20946 Mauro Peixoto [HTML file part2 deleted by listprocessor] ################### From: Amy Ritchie Date: Sun, 9 Jan 2000 20:33:59 -0500 (EST) Subject: changing emails Hi all, I'm in the process of changing my email address. I want to have the CP digest sent to my new address. But I can't remember how to subscribe! Please tell me what email address to write to to subscribe, and what I write. Thanks, Amy P.S. Just to let you know ahead of time, my new address will be carnivorous_plant@yahoo.com The reason I am changing is because I have had lots and lots of problems with Juno lately. ################### From: "Steve Alton" Date: Mon, 10 Jan 2000 11:41:52 -0000 Subject: A seed supplier Dear All, Has anybody else had any experience of Doug and Vivi Rowland, who trade out of Kempston, Bedford, UK? They mostly deal in seed of cacti and succulents, but have a very nice list of CPs, with the emphasis on Drosera and Utrics. However, the last batch of seed I had from them gave me very poor germination results. This could, of course, just be me! Anybody else had anything from them? PS - if Andrew Bate would like the details for UK Resources page, let me know, huh? Steve Steve Alton UK Co-ordinator - Millennium Seed Bank Royal Botanic Gardens, Kew Wakehurst Place Tel: 01444 894079 Fax: 01444 894069 ################### From: "Philip Semanchuk" Date: Mon, 10 Jan 2000 10:12:51 -0500 Subject: Re: "Keiki on Dionaea flower stem" >Sorry for the orchid term, but my Dionaeas are growing small plants >in their flower stems, is this a normal behavior? Hi Mauro, This isn't normal, but it is not unheard of either. If you lay the flower stem down on some sphagnum (you may need to weigh it down with a pebble or twig), the plantlets should take root. Good growing, ################### From: "Sam Vanderstraeten" Date: Mon, 10 Jan 2000 16:01:10 +0100 Subject: Sarracenia flava-forms Dear all, I'm a CP enthousiast for about 6 years and I like Sarracenia quite a lot. Now I'm looking for as much as possible different S. FLAVA-FORMS and varities. Can anyone help me? If you do, you can always mail me personally ( Samvds@hotmail.com ). If have quite a lot plants for exchange (you can always ask me my list.) Thanks in advance. Sam. [HTML file part2 deleted by listprocessor] ################### From: Barry Meyers-Rice Date: Mon, 10 Jan 2000 10:53:51 -0800 (PST) Subject: ICPS on adult site, heat resistent Sarracenia > You're right about this site - very "something", but > not family rated! I'm all for free advertising so if > they give ICPS nice publicity it won't hurt too much. > Strange, though, would carnivorous plant pictures > "interest" the person who would look at this site??? > I guess maybe some pitcher plants do look,...er, well, > you know! Kind of.... like, related to human anatomy. Hey Bruce, I'll admit I barely looked at the site that highlighted the ICPS. If it leans towards the "adult" side I missed out on that part. (dang) It just struck me as a very arty site, sort of full of itself. They didn't ask us for permission for the link, the just told me about it. Ah well. As to the heat tolerant Sarracenia I mentioned recently, a few of you have asked me to preprint the article that will appear in CPN. But, as I jokingly chided in a few private emails, why not join the ICPS so you can read the description yourself! But to satisfy your curiosity in the short term, I have a photo of the cultivar at: http://www.sarracenia.com/photos2/shyb08.jpg (I'd look tonight, if I were you, the net is so slow I'm getting access error messages just looking at my own sites right now!). Barry ------------------------ Dr. Barry A. Meyers-Rice Carnivorous Plant Newsletter Conservation Coeditor barry@carnivorousplants.org http://www.carnivorousplants.org ################### From: "Dickon Worsley" Date: Mon, 10 Jan 2000 14:32:03 -0500 Subject: change of address Hi everybody, We just wanted to let you know that we have changed our e-mail address effective immediately. Here's the new address, so you may update your address books. dworsley@idirect.com Thanks! Dickon, Cathy & Audra ################### From: "Greg Bourke" Date: Tue, 11 Jan 2000 10:13:14 EST Subject: re:Nepenthes in sand I grow N. rajah, N. mirabilis, and N. mirabilis hybrids in peat/sand with good results. They grow outside in a bog garden with Cephalotus, Dionaea, and Drosera. The Nepenthes are in a raised section roughly 3 inches above the Drosera. Temperatures range from 2-18 celsius in winter and 15-35 celsius in summer. It takes a few seasons for Lowlands to adjust but they grow well in summer. Other Nep's that should grow in peat/sand: N. bicalcarata, N. gracilis, N. ampullaria + their hybrids. Good luck! ################### From: "Paul Edwards" Date: Tue, 11 Jan 2000 10:41:08 +1100 Subject: Hot Houses After much negotiation with my wife (sometimes they really don't understand the important things in life - sigh), I've got the approval for a new bigger hot house. Which possibly opens a new area of discussion. Just how do we get our spouses to understand us! No, sorry, wrong subject. That's impossible to answer! What I meant to say was, what's "the best" kind of hot house. (If there is such a thing as "the best") I currently have a plastic house over a metal frame (manufactured and sold in Australia as an "Adlo" hot house). This seems quite good, but does get rather cold in winter, and very hot in the summer. Today's forecast is for low 30s C, and even with my fogging set-up, and vents/hatches etc open, will get to around 40C in the hothouse. The heat isn't a major worry, as most CPs seem to cope with it OK, but is there a better house? Are igloos better, or glass houses, or what other options are there? I grow most varieties of CPs, but mainly Nepenthes. Any advice would be appreciated. ---------------------------------------- Paul Edwards, Bampton Park, Neerim South, Victoria. Australia. edwards@net2000.com.au ---------------------------------------- ################### From: "Andrew Marshall" Date: Mon, 10 Jan 2000 22:47:37 -0800 Subject: website update Hi folks, I have a new website address, new-ish look and new features on my website. It takes secured credit card orders now. The address for your inspection, comment and advice is http://cascadecarnivorous.plant.org There are still a few problems with pictures that wouldn't transfer over. Don't know why but we are working on them. Any advice from the experts on html stuff is appreciated. Best wishes and a flu free new year. Andrew Marshall Cascade Carnivorous Plants ################### From: Steve Hinkson Date: Mon, 10 Jan 2000 23:43:33 -0800 Subject: "Best" Hot House "Just how do we get our spouses to understand us? No, sorry, wrong subject. That's impossible to answer! What I meant to say was, what's "the best" kind of hot house?" Paul: As to your querry about the "best" Greenhouse LOL Perhaps it'd be easier to answer "how to get your spouse to understand? *grin* I guess the best would be clear glass tempered thermo-pane incorporating electrostatic sunscreen. Heated with a forced air furnace equipped with a stainless steel heat exchanger. Cooled by both refrigeration, and on the low humidity days, an evaporitive cooler. Have the glass mounted in an aluminum frame coated with a baked enamel, preferably a shade of white. Don't forget to include a full pressure de-ionization unit to keep the mist system and fog system realitively salt free. But it'll cost 'ya. *grin* Steve Drop by and see me at : http://www.geocities.com/HotSprings/Spa/6811 ################### From: "YOSHIYUKI SODEKAWA" Date: Tue, 11 Jan 2000 20:33:25 +0900 (JST) Subject: Re:"Keiki on Dionaea flower stem" Dear Mauro, I don't think it's normal, but I have ever succeeded in separating the small plants from the flower stems. It kept growing for 2 months to be 2cm in diameter, but died probably because of my cultivation inexperience for VFT. My plants were imported from Triffied Park in Australia. They were named "Royal Red." I planted 6 of them in a large pot. When they flowered, 3 plants had very red plantlets on the stalks. There were 2 to 4 plantlets on one stalk. I waited until the small plants have at least 4 leaves with traps, then separated them with knife. I sterilized the opening and planted in sphagnum moss. Good growing! Yoshiyuki Sodekawa Member of IPS, Japan Yokohama, Japan ################### From: "Stefan P. Wolf" Date: Tue, 11 Jan 2000 16:03:34 +0100 Subject: Re: Cocofiber Pots Hi Joe! > I was in search of some hanging baskets for my Nepenthes x coccinea, > and came across some nice ones lined with Cocofiber, which claimes > to come from coconuts. I have no idea if this will help my digestive > system as regular fiber, but thats no concern... Does anyone have > experience with cocofiber & Carnivorous Plants? Yes, very bad experience! I got one of these cocofiber bricks you can put into 10 liters of water and get a bucket of peat substitute for garden soil. As it has no additives and a perfect structure it was said to promise good suitability for CP after it already was a hot tip amongst orchid growers for some time. To cut a long story short: I killed some CP and I blame it on using cocofiber as peat replacement on these plants. It killed even D. capensis! Later I heard rumour that these coco palm trees store high amounts of salt in the fiber as they grow near the sea. I will not use it again --neither on CP nor in the garden. Best regards, Stefan. -- Dipl.-Inform. Stefan P. Wolf ................................................ mail : Zehlendorfer Str. 69, 24111 Kiel, GERMANY phone: (+49 431) 5973173 * fax: (+49 431) 697568 CP books >> http://www.angelfire.com/de/cpbooks/ ................................................ ################### From: Rich Ellis Date: Tue, 11 Jan 2000 08:27:35 -0700 Subject: CPers near Orlando Greetings all, I will be at a conference in Orlando next week with a few days left over to play on January 21 and 22. Unfortunately this is a bad time to see CP in the wild but I always enjoy meeting with other CPers and seeing how different folks grow their plants. If there are any commercial nurseries or anyone in the Orlando area that wants to get together, let me know at ricell@juno.com or (303) 666-9534. Thanks, Rich Boulder, Colorado http://www.geocities.com/RainForest/Vines/8564/ ################### From: Barry Meyers-Rice Date: Tue, 11 Jan 2000 09:13:21 -0800 (PST) Subject: Seeking volunteer for ICPS project Hey Folks, I have hatched a new scheme for the ICPS, and I would like a volunteer who could follow this up. My last scheme along these lines resulted in the CP Web Ring---maybe this new one can be as successful. I would like to have a photo gallery on the ICPS web site. This gallery would show the work of CPers who love photographing their "pets" in cultivation, in the field, etc. I imagine that every quarter, a new "theme" would be announced, and photographs would be submitted for this. As an example of what I am thinking, you could look at a photo gallery that is run by a group of people dedicated to photography with Pentax equipment. There is the gallery page, and the submission instructions page: http://pug.komkon.org/ http://pug.komkon.org/general/submit.html In order to make this a reality, I would need someone who has the following abilities/assets: 1)Knowledge of HTML, ability to write simple web pages. 2)Can accept/send emails up to 200K in size. FTP a big bonus, too. 3)Good at dealing with (occasionally) cranky people with grace (you'd be representing the ICPS). 4)Willing to work on a thankless task for no money. 5)Having a color scanner would be a plus if some people wanted to submit hard copies. Anyone interested? If not, I will probably take this on myself, but my girlfriend will kill me for taking on another project! Barry ------------------------ Dr. Barry A. Meyers-Rice Carnivorous Plant Newsletter Conservation Coeditor barry@carnivorousplants.org http://www.carnivorousplants.org ################### From: Christer Berglund Date: Tue, 11 Jan 2000 18:46:45 +0100 Subject: Anyone used atapulgit sand for cp's Hi, I wonder if anyone have used atapulgit sand for cp's? The sand is very fine small round grains and light brown in coloration. I have searched the Internet and I only found a Turkish page which mentioned the name atapulgit. Thanks in advance, -- Christer Berglund E-mail: christer.berglund@amiga.pp.se ################### From: "corpin" Date: Tue, 11 Jan 2000 18:47:53 -0000 Subject: cps Dear cps, I am a cp enthusiast, and I would like to receive regular bulletins of the CP digest. How do I go about subscribing to the lists? Best wishes, Colin. [HTML file part2 deleted by listprocessor] ################### From: Marianne Perdomo Machin Date: Tue, 11 Jan 2000 21:51:40 +0000 Subject: Re: More comments on U. longifolia > More comments on U. longifolia: > > Who said the tropics must be hot and humid. Not I! I know about cool tropics from my mother growing orchids. > I would love to learn more specifics about U. longifolia's ecological > niche. If it doesn't grow on trees (epiphyte), how does it grow? Me, too. I searched the web some but didn't get much information. A brazilian webpage (in Portuguese, so it will take me a while to get though it) says it's endemic to Brazil and terrestrial. There are some notes on Utricularia culture, like giving to (mostly epiphyte) tuberous utrics dormancy, which would not apply here. And that many brazilian especies are annuals (U. longifolia, too?). According to it, most especies appreciate plenty of water, and reccomends complete immersion in case of aphid infestation. It also says that U. longifolia leaves reach over 40 cm. (Mine is still tiny but sprouting new leaves, perhaps if I'm more generous with the water) The page in question is at: http://members.tripod.com/hexenmeister/Generos.htm Click on Utricularia, last of the red bars in the menu. The whole site looks good to me, but then I am only just starting with CPs. > For just > big leaves it sure has tiny traps. The page mentions that terrestrial utricularia usually dines on miscroscopic life in the soil so no feeding is necessary. Hope this helps, Now if only anybody could confirm the validity of this information (I may have mistranslated or the author mistyped or something)... Marianne ################### From: JWi5770869@aol.com Date: Tue, 11 Jan 2000 18:51:29 EST Subject: Re Doug & Vivi Rowland seeds Steve and all, You wrote: Dear All, Has anybody else had any experience of Doug and Vivi Rowland, who trade out of Kempston, Bedford, UK? They mostly deal in seed of cacti and succulents, but have a very nice list of CPs, with the emphasis on Drosera and Utrics. However, the last batch of seed I had from them gave me very poor germination results. This could, of course, just be me! Anybody else had anything from them? Yes I've had plenty of seed of them in the past and have to conclude that either they are as bad as the rest or that its me.The fact that I'm going to use GA3 this year must give you some idea that I think its me. John Wilden Southport Lancs. UK ################### From: JWi5770869@aol.com Date: Tue, 11 Jan 2000 18:53:58 EST Subject: Hothouse Dear all, >Today's forecast is for low 30s C, and even with my fogging set-up, and vents/hatches etc open, will get to around 40C in the hothouse >Are igloos better No they melt in the heat Sorry couldn't resist it!! John Wilden Southport Lancs. UK ################### From: JWi5770869@aol.com Date: Tue, 11 Jan 2000 19:00:25 EST Subject: U Monanthos Dear All, Reading in Lowrie's excellent Volume 3 he seems to be classing U.Monanthos with Dros. Arcturi (sorry if the spelling is a bit off) in that they both either require cold before germination in the Spring or are at least able to tolerate it. Has anybody had a go at cold-treatment of U. Monanthos seed prior to sowing and was the germination successful or do you specifically need the seed from New Zealand as opposed to Australia. Has anybody had any success germinating this Utric and what were your methods? Thanks. John Wilden Southport Lancs. UK ################### From: "Paul Edwards" Date: Wed, 12 Jan 2000 13:55:10 +1100 Subject: Re: "Best" Hot House Sounds great. Where do I get one? And how much change out of $1,000? Will you talk my wife into it? Paul PS: Thanks to all the other comedians out there. You really made my day! :-) ----- Original Message ----- To: Multiple recipients of list Sent: Tuesday, January 11, 2000 6:54 PM > "Just how do we get > our spouses to understand us? No, sorry, wrong subject. > That's impossible to answer! What I meant to > say was, what's "the best" kind of hot house?" > > Paul: > As to your querry about the "best" Greenhouse LOL Perhaps it'd be easier to > answer "how to get your spouse to understand? *grin* > > I guess the best would be clear glass tempered thermo-pane incorporating > electrostatic > sunscreen. Heated with a forced air furnace equipped with a stainless steel heat > exchanger. > Cooled by both refrigeration, and on the low humidity days, an evaporitive > cooler. > Have the glass mounted in an aluminum frame coated with a baked enamel, > preferably a shade of white. > Don't forget to include a full pressure de-ionization unit to keep the mist > system and fog system realitively salt free. > > But it'll cost 'ya. > *grin* > Steve > > Drop by and see me at : > http://www.geocities.com/HotSprings/Spa/6811 > > ################### From: Hayes7@aol.com Date: Tue, 11 Jan 2000 23:09:23 EST Subject: Re: Seeking volunteer for ICPS project Barry, >I would like to have a photo gallery on the ICPS web site. This gallery >would show the work of CPers who love photographing their "pets" in >cultivation, in the field, etc. ~snip~ > Anyone interested? If not, I will probably take this on myself, but my > girlfriend will kill me for taking on another project! Perhaps this may become too much for one person to handle, but I volunteer to start the effort anyway. We have a scanner & an ftp site available for image uploads as well.... If anybody else wants to lend a hand on this, please drop Barry and I a note. Take care & keep on growing, Thomas Hayes DANGEROUS PLANTS www.dangerousplants.com ################### From: "Richard Jobson" Date: Wed, 12 Jan 2000 15:27:14 +1100 Subject: U. monanthos germination Dear John, After one month U. monanthos (NZ), U. violacea, and U. benthamii seed have just germinated. Seed were obtained from Allan Lowrie and placed onto wet river sand in a shaded (50%) and cool glasshouse (15 - 30 C). I did not treat the seed in any way. Hoping all the other species follow suit. Best, Richard J. P.S I recently germinated seed of true U. endresii (using the peat tea in a tube method) obtained from Cambrian Carnivors - I currently have the seedlings growing in two pots - one pure spaghnum the other peat/sand. Seems to do well in both substrates. ################### From: Phil Wilson Date: Wed, 12 Jan 2000 10:06:44 +0000 Subject: Re: U Monanthos John, >Reading in Lowrie's excellent Volume 3 he seems to be classing >U.Monanthos with Dros. Arcturi (sorry if the spelling is a bit off) in >that they both either require cold before germination in the Spring or >are at least able to tolerate it. Has anybody had a go at >cold-treatment of U. Monanthos seed prior to sowing and was the >germination successful or do you specifically need the seed from New >Zealand as opposed to Australia. Has anybody had any success >germinating this Utric and what were your methods? > Fresh seed of U. monanthos germinates without any cold treatment. I sow the seed in the spring and get germination within a few weeks. Nothing more complicated than that. Regards, Phil Wilson Email: cp@pwilson.demon.co.uk ################### From: S.Ippenberger@t-online.de (Ippenberger) Date: Wed, 12 Jan 2000 12:30:32 +0100 Subject: Re: U. monanthos > > Last spring I sowed NZ U. monanthos seeds onto pure peat. One batch was kept under high humidity in a normal heated room (windowsill), the other one outside in the garden. The second one got temperatures down to +5\260C but no frost. Both germinated within 4-6 weeks. Stefan > Dear All, > Reading in Lowrie's excellent Volume 3 he seems to be classing U.Monanthos > with Dros. Arcturi (sorry if the spelling is a bit off) in that they both > either require cold before germination in the Spring or are at least able to > tolerate it. > Has anybody had a go at cold-treatment of U. Monanthos seed prior to sowing > and was the germination successful or do you specifically need the seed from > New Zealand as opposed to Australia. > Has anybody had any success germinating this Utric and what were your methods? > > Thanks. > > John Wilden > Southport > Lancs. > UK > > ------------------------------ > > Topic No. 13 > > Date: Wed, 12 Jan 2000 13:55:10 +1100 > From: "Paul Edwards" > To: "CP List" > Subject: Re: "Best" Hot House > Message-ID: <001801bf5ca8$88dfe960$641657cb@ibm9068k73> > > > Sounds great. > Where do I get one? And how much change out of $1,000? > Will you talk my wife into it? > > Paul > > PS: Thanks to all the other comedians out there. You really made my day! :-) > > > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: Steve Hinkson > To: Multiple recipients of list > Sent: Tuesday, January 11, 2000 6:54 PM > Subject: "Best" Hot House > > > > "Just how do we get > > our spouses to understand us? No, sorry, wrong subject. > > That's impossible to answer! What I meant to > > say was, what's "the best" kind of hot house?" > > > > Paul: > > As to your querry about the "best" Greenhouse LOL Perhaps it'd be easier > to > > answer "how to get your spouse to understand? *grin* > > > > I guess the best would be clear glass tempered thermo-pane incorporating > > electrostatic > > sunscreen. Heated with a forced air furnace equipped with a stainless > steel heat > > exchanger. > > Cooled by both refrigeration, and on the low humidity days, an evaporitive > > cooler. > > Have the glass mounted in an aluminum frame coated with a baked enamel, > > preferably a shade of white. > > Don't forget to include a full pressure de-ionization unit to keep the > mist > > system and fog system realitively salt free. > > > > But it'll cost 'ya. > > *grin* > > Steve > > > > Drop by and see me at : > > http://www.geocities.com/HotSprings/Spa/6811 > > > > > > > > > > ------------------------------ > > Topic No. 14 > > Date: Tue, 11 Jan 2000 23:09:23 EST > From: Hayes7@aol.com > To: cp@opus.hpl.hp.com > Subject: Re: Seeking volunteer for ICPS project > Message-ID: > > Barry, > > >I would like to have a photo gallery on the ICPS web site. This gallery > >would show the work of CPers who love photographing their "pets" in > >cultivation, in the field, etc. > > ~snip~ > > > Anyone interested? If not, I will probably take this on myself, but my > > girlfriend will kill me for taking on another project! > > Perhaps this may become too much for one person to handle, but I volunteer to > start the effort anyway. We have a scanner & an ftp site available for > image uploads as well.... If anybody else wants to lend a hand on this, > please drop Barry and I a note. > > Take care & keep on growing, > > Thomas Hayes > > DANGEROUS PLANTS > > www.dangerousplants.com > > ------------------------------ > > End of CP Digest 2063 > ********************* ################### From: "Sundew Sundew" Date: Wed, 12 Jan 2000 08:43:16 -0500 Subject: P.sp.Pachuca = emarginata?? Hey Ping Experts, I've noticed a good deal of similarity between the foliage of plants I have labelled as sp Pachuca and emarginata. I have yet to see either flower but was wondering if these are related or possibly the same? Thanks! Matt [HTML file part2 deleted by listprocessor] ################### From: Paul C Date: Wed, 12 Jan 2000 08:47:19 -0800 Subject: Sarracenia leucophylla Does anyone out there have any seed or plants of Sarracenia luecophylla available for sale or trade. The only thing I have to trade would be fresh trimmed tips of spagnum. US only, please. Respond to prc@gbso.net. Thanks, Paul C. ################### From: Tom Massey Date: Wed, 12 Jan 2000 10:08:34 -0500 Subject: RE: Sarracenia leucophylla Send me your address and i will send you seed. No need for trade. Tom in Fl. On Wednesday, January 12, 2000 9:32 AM, Paul C [SMTP:prc@gbso.net] wrote: > Does anyone out there have any seed or plants of Sarracenia > luecophylla available for sale or trade. The only thing I have to > trade would be fresh trimmed tips of spagnum. US only, please. > Respond to prc@gbso.net. > > Thanks, > > Paul C. > > ################### From: SCHLAUER@chemie.uni-wuerzburg.de Date: Wed, 12 Jan 2000 16:37:10 Subject: Re: P.sp.Pachuca = emarginata?? Dear Matt, > I've noticed a good deal of similarity between the foliage of plants > I have labelled as sp Pachuca and emarginata. I have yet to see > either flower but was wondering if these are related or possibly the > same? There is at least one species in cultivation called "Pachuca" that is not even remotely related to _P. emarginata_ but a fairly close relative of _P. moranensis_ (belonging to another subgenus). Do not rely on leaf morphology alone for the identification of _Pinguiculae_. You will have to wait for flowers. In the second round I expect lots of _P. moranensis_ relatives in the market labeled "P. emarginata" as a nice substitute for the useless/undefined "Pachuca". This case is another fine example why bogus names are such a pain. My tip (not a really new one): do *not* use bogus nomenclature at all. Kind regards Jan ################### From: "Sundew Sundew" Date: Wed, 12 Jan 2000 11:02:31 -0500 Subject: Re: Re: P.sp.Pachuca = emarginata?? Hi Jan, It's funny how all these years I thought there was a major problem with false identification of Drosera in collections when it recently became apparent to me (upon visiting a friend with a terrific Mexican and other Ping collection - you know who you are! and get ready to send me those plants!) that there's definitely more confusion with Pings. The reason I asked whether the 2 were similar or the same was because the red coloration on the edge of the leaf only close to the center of the plant, which I was told was characteristic of this sp. Pachuca, is also present on what I received from another grower (thanks, you know who!) as emarginata. The only difference other than that is the "emarginata" have more red coloration. Oh well. Thanks for the response! Matt ----- Original Message ----- To: Sundew Sundew ; ; Sent: Wednesday, January 12, 2000 4:37 PM > Dear Matt, > > > I've noticed a good deal of similarity between the foliage of plants > > I have labelled as sp Pachuca and emarginata. I have yet to see > > either flower but was wondering if these are related or possibly the > > same? > > There is at least one species in cultivation called "Pachuca" that is > not even remotely related to _P. emarginata_ but a fairly close > relative of _P. moranensis_ (belonging to another subgenus). Do not > rely on leaf morphology alone for the identification of _Pinguiculae_. > You will have to wait for flowers. > > In the second round I expect lots of _P. moranensis_ relatives in the > market labeled "P. emarginata" as a nice substitute for the > useless/undefined "Pachuca". This case is another fine example why > bogus names are such a pain. My tip (not a really new one): do *not* > use bogus nomenclature at all. > > Kind regards > Jan > ################### From: Ivan Snyder Date: Wed, 12 Jan 2000 09:31:06 -0800 Subject: U. monanthos germination Hi John and all, John Wilden wrote: >Has anybody had a go at cold-treatment of U. Monanthos seed prior to sowing >and was the germination successful or do you specifically need the seed from >New Zealand as opposed to Australia. >Has anybody had any success germinating this Utric and what were your methods? I got seed of this species from Brian Quinn in New Zealand. The seed germinated without cold stratification for me. I simply sowed the seed in an already established pot of peat/sand next to something else, no special treatment. I think it took about 3-4 weeks to germinate. The plant grew well and interestingly made traps on top of the soil which looked like tiny Cephalotus pitchers. I had read that a particular form flowers often, I must have gotten another since mine never flowered and so I gave up on the plant. I have tried germinating seed of D. arcturi and D. stenopetala, two species which grow along with U. monanthos, and used every trick I could think of including cold stratification, freezing, GA3, etc. but had no luck. My guess is these just take a year to sprout. Ivan Snyder Hermosa Beach California ________________________________________________________________ YOU'RE PAYING TOO MUCH FOR THE INTERNET! Juno now offers FREE Internet Access! Try it today - there's no risk! For your FREE software, visit: http://dl.www.juno.com/get/tagj. ################### From: "Joseph Kinyon" Date: Wed, 12 Jan 2000 10:30:43 -0800 Subject: staghorn fern An off topic subject Hello folks, I have recieved a staghorn fern and their is no staghorn fern listserve to join! (grin) Can anyone offer some beyond basic growing tips. E-mail me directly on this subject. Also, I started building a 10 x 5 foot green house out of windows from Building Resources in San Francisco. For a few dollars I bought obscure glass sash windows in a redwood frame. They are large windows salvaged from a chuch in San Francisco. With the studs I salvaged (with permission of course) from a local remodeling project, I am building this out of completely recycled materials--except for the brass hardware. I believe the whole project will cost $120 to finish (the hardware being a significant portion of the budget). I did see several sliding glass doors in aluminum frames for *cheap*. You could quickly frame four windows into an insulated box. Just add shelves roof and gravel. You can add the biodome-technology others posted as you see fit. (I challenge you to run it off solar power, for a stand alone off the grid system) Are they tearing any hotels down near you? You could get a whole bunch and go modular. Joseph Kinyon ################### From: "Dave Evans" Date: Wed, 12 Jan 2000 22:36:20 -0500 Subject: Re: Cold/Hot hardiness? Hi Rich, > I recall Dave Evans did quite well with > S. leuco in New Jersey however. Yeah, _Sarracenia leucophylla_ will grow fine, at least as far north as New Jersey. I feel that it's growing season is cut short by the cold. And that's not really the best thing for the grower, since I only get to see the fall flush of pitchers grow for a couple weeks until the frosts come. The fully formed pitchers stay around through December and on warmer days they continue to catch insects while at night they freeze. I think you could grow this species even further north without much ado. I don't mulch, but I do have to keep on pushing the rhizomes and hibernaculum of smaller plants back down into the soil because of frost heaving. Dave Evans ################### From: "Dave Evans" Date: Wed, 12 Jan 2000 22:38:16 -0500 Subject: Re: CP'ers in Connecticut Sounds nice, but who are you? Dave Evans ----- Original Message ----- To: Multiple recipients of list Sent: Thursday, January 06, 2000 6:59 PM > I live in Connecticut. I would like to create a list of people in the > tri-state area who also raise C.P.s. This would be for the purposes of plant > and information exchange. Perhaps a mini-symposium could be arranged or a > membership trip to an interesting site or arboretum. Please contact me via > this list if you would be interested. > ################### From: "Fernando Rivadavia-Lopes" Date: Thu, 13 Jan 2000 11:58:28 -0200 Subject: BRAZILIAN CP WEBPAGE PLAGIARIZED!!!!!!!!!!! Dear friends, I was perplexed yesterday with a message from Marianne Perdomo Machin to the listserv where she mentions a Brazilian CP webpage which I had never heard about. Upon entering the site and later discussing it with my friend Marcelo A.K.Fontana (who did most of the work on our CP webpage), we were aghast to discover that this other site was a perfect copy of the old version of our own page (put together with the help of another CP friend Linilson Padovese), from the pictures and texts right down to the awards won!! The perpetrator appears to be a guy called Daniel Sollazzini Cortez, although he does mention a Marcelo Sollazzini Cortez as one of the "donators" of pictures, along with Marcelo (Fontana), Linilson, and I. Our main question now is WHAT DO WE DO??? And WHAT CAN WE DO??? Is it possible to somehow get this guy's plagiarized webpage OFF the web by contacting the people who run Tripod (where his page is based)? Unfortunately, the smart ass doesn't give his e-mail address on that web page so the only way we can contact him may be through Tripod. Maybe some of you out there have more experience with this kind of stuff and can give us some hints..... This Sollazzini creep says he was responsible for writing everything and putting it all together. He even has the nerve to thank Marcelo, Linilson, and I for helping him by taking all the pictures and goes as far as saying: "Todos textos, fotos, imagens e gif's pertencem por direito \340 Daniel Sollazzini Cortez, a publica\347\343o, c\363pia e divulga\347\343o deles \351 proibida e ilegal, sujeito a multa e pris\343o. Fiscaliza\347\343o constante." Which translates as: "All texts, photos, images and gif's belong by right to Daniel Sollazzini Cortez, the publication, copy and distribution of these is prohibited and illegal, being subject to fine and prison. Constant fiscalization." Anyways, the plagiarized version (it's very slow to download!) is at: http://members.tripod.com/hexenmeister/Generos.htm So for the record, neither Marcelo, Linilson or I endorse anything that's written in the above webpage, although our names our cited by this Sollazzini bastard. The new version of our official Brazilian CP webpage (with new texts and over 900 pictures) is at: http://www.mcef.ep.usp.br/carnivoras/ Only the Portuguese version is ready, but if you wish to see the pictures of plants, click on "Generos e Especies" ("Genera and Species"). There are also many habitat, flora, and fauna pictures if you click on "Habitats no Brasil" ("Habitats in Brazil"). Best Wishes and Thanks, Fernando Rivadavia Sao Paulo, Brazil P.S. A special thanks to Marianne for bringing this fake website to our knowledge! ################### From: Vitor Fernandes Oliveira de Miranda Date: Thu, 13 Jan 2000 12:54:47 -0200 (GRNLNDDT) Subject: Changing e-mail Dear friends, I\264d like to notice you that my e-mail has just changed to: vitormiranda@bol.com.br Best wishes Vitor. ------------------- Vitor Miranda Dep. Bot\342nica - IB Unesp - Universidade Estadual Paulista Rio Claro-SP, Brazil ################### From: Vitor Fernandes Oliveira de Miranda Date: Thu, 13 Jan 2000 13:07:13 -0200 (GRNLNDDT) Subject: e-mail changed Dear friends, I\264d like to notice you that my e-mail has just changed to: vitormiranda@bol.com.br Best wishes Vitor. ---------- Vitor Fernandes Oliveira de Miranda IB - Departamento de Bot\342nica Unesp - Universidade Estadual Paulista Rio Claro-SP, Brazil ---------- ################### From: "Diobel" Date: Thu, 13 Jan 2000 21:28:59 +0100 Subject: Thierry Hello I form part of a Belgian association of carnivorous plants and I seek some seeds to increase my small collection I seek: cephalotus, brochinia, catopsis, I thank you for your answers and your assistance a small mall will make me good for my moral because I for a very long time seek thank you Thierry [HTML file part2 deleted by listprocessor] ################### From: "Zachary Kaufman" Date: Thu, 13 Jan 2000 19:01:18 PST Subject: Light meter I recently came across an ad for a light meter. It supposedly can handle readings from 0-50,000 LUX and has a relative sensitivity of 10 - 100 (degree symbol above the last 0 in 100). Unfortunately these ranges have little meaning to me. I was hoping someone could answer the following questions: 1) What is the conversion between foot-candles and LUX? Is there a meaningful definition as to what 1 LUX is? 2) Is 50,000 LUX a value greater than one would experience outside in full sun? I would like a meter that won't go out of range outside. 3) What does a relative sensitivy of 10 - 100 degrees mean for a light meter? Is this any good? The light meter, from the picture, appears to have a digital LCD display and a separate ~3cm diameter white sensor element. Its seems to be very well priced, but I need to know a bit more before I decide to purchase it. Thanks to anyone that can help with my questions. --Zachary-- e-mail: zkaufman@hotmail.com ################### From: "William Longe" Date: Thu, 13 Jan 2000 23:51:43 -0500 Subject: William Longe/MIA/NTRS is out of the office. I will be out of the office from 01/13/2000 until 01/19/2000. I will be reading my e-mail and will respond if I can. ################### From: CMcdon0923@aol.com Date: Fri, 14 Jan 2000 00:09:37 EST Subject: Solar Powered Greenhouse Fixtures Over this past summer I finally got around to building a modest (8ft x 16ft) greenhouse in my yard. Among the issues I'm still working out is that of ventilation, power, water, and cooling (air temperatures can easily reach 105F higher during July and August). I do not yet have electricity in the structure, and it may be a while ($$$$) before I do. In an emergency, I could run an extension cord from the house (60+ feet), but I would prefer a more "contained" solution. Besides cooling, I need a way to keep the air moving. Right now all I have is the screen door and two smallish windows on the back wall...basically just flow-through ventilation. What I am hoping to find is some type of solar powered fan to mount from the rafters. There is certainly no shortage of ol' Sol around here, year-round. (I tried Charlie's Greenhouse Supply, and while they don't sell them they did give me a possible lead.) Anyone else have any leads.....an internet search on "solar fans" wasn't too fruitful. I would prefer a US supplier, simply for ease of doing business. Sincerely, Craig McDonald Frisco, Texas ################### From: "Joseph Kinyon" Date: Thu, 13 Jan 2000 21:45:46 -0800 Subject: RE:Tripod's copyright policy Hey folks, Content and privilege to use it is something to take seriously. I responded to Fernando and Tripod regarding Fernando's allegation of plagiarism. FYI, all web servers should have an "abuse" section. If you are interested in Tripod's policy, then go to this site: http://www.tripod.lycos.com/membership/signup/tos.html . I appreciate, and benefit from the tremendous work, sharing of ideas, and thoughtful reference to the original work that people make in this cp community. This is just one aspect of the integrity of CP information that we muddle towards in these postings. By upholding this integrity we protect our own voices and work. Thanks for reading my little rant. Joseph Kinyon P.S.: To all those who mailed me off topic, thanks for all the helpful direct mail I've received and keeping the listserve on topic. :) ################### From: "Richard Jobson" Date: Fri, 14 Jan 2000 17:17:18 +1100 Subject: light meter Zachary, A lux = 1 lumen per square meter. A footcandle = 1 lumen per square foot. Therefore 1 foot candle = 10.7 lux and is a measure of illumination. Someone with a physics background may need to correct me but a lux meter measures luminosity and is not very useful in determining available light levels in relation to plant growth. A meter that measures in Micro-Einsteins (micro mole/meter/second) is probably best because it can measure the specific radiation utilized by the plants. One model is the Li-Cor quantum meter LI- 189 - not sure on the price - it may be expensive? However, if you just want a rough idea of light levels in your growing area rather than the levels of available energy hitting your plants, a lux meter is probably sufficient. Depends on your intended application. Hope I've helped a bit, Richard. ################### From: Juerg Steiger Date: Fri, 14 Jan 2000 10:09:49 +0200 Subject: Re: Light meter Hi Zachari 1 lux is defined as the light energy received on 1 squaremeter from a light source of 1 lumen. For German speaking CPers a good survey on 'Lichttechnische Grundbegriffe' is available on http://www.osram.de/produkte/lichtplanung/lichttechnisch.htm For English speaking people search at http://www.osram.com or other manufacturers of light sources. Light meters measure only the total light energy received from a light source but not the relative spectrum distribution of the light source. Human eyes have their highest light sensititvity at a wave lenght of about 550 nanometer, while plants have 2 biologically important peaks around 440nm and again at 650 nm. Therefore for plant growth the spectral distribution of the light source is important. Pleasant light for our eyes may not automatically be suitable for plants. Graphs with the emitted spectrum of different light sources are available by their manufacturers. ATTENTION!! For industrial plant production different light sources are available with particular spectrum peaks enhancing plants growth. But industrial plant production usually deals with ANNUAL plants producing one or more plant generations per year. After the flower or fruit period the plants perish and are disposed. For many PERENNIAL species these plant-specific light sources increase leaf growth and flowering/fruiting to fast, resulting in disturbing the internal watch of the annual growth cycle which is genetically anchored. The results are to early metamorphosis into the winter stage (or from winter to summer stage) and increased microbial infestations. For perennials it is therefore recommended to use light sources with a spectrum which is as similar as possible to the spectrum of normal daylight as e.g. specific metal halide lamps (in Europe e.g. Hitlite HIT-DE dw (5200 Kelvin) made by BLV, or Power Star HQI ../D or HQI .../NDL made by Osram, or Biolux lamps made by Osram ). To measure the total amount of light at a certain place the light meter is certainly useful. If no light meter is available, the built-in light meter of many photocameras may give approximate estimations. Juerg F. Steiger M.D. Institute for Medical Education IAWF Master of Medical Education Program University of Bern, Faculty of Medicine Inselspital 37a CH-3010 Bern, Switzerland Phone: +41 (0)31 632 98 87 Fax: +41 (0)31 632 98 71 juerg.steiger@iae.unibe.ch http://www.iawf.unibe.ch/MME ################### From: "Sundew" Date: Fri, 14 Jan 2000 22:07:05 +1100 Subject: South American Tepuis Dear all I am wanting to obtain some information on the traversing of the Tepuis, esp. Mt Roraima. I do plan to visit South America in the future, so would like some input as to the ins and outs of the region, preferably personal experience. Regards Nathan J. Clemens Bowral NSW Australia "The hurting that we send is so difficult to mend" Peace, Eurythmics ' 99 [HTML file part2 deleted by listprocessor] ################### From: Carl Gustafson Date: Fri, 14 Jan 2000 08:30:12 -0500 Subject: Re: BRAZILIAN CP WEBPAGE PLAGIARIZED!!!!!!!!!!! At 8:49 PM -0800 1/13/00, cp@opus.hpl.hp.com wrote: [snip] > > Our main question now is WHAT DO WE DO??? And WHAT CAN WE DO??? >Is it possible to somehow get this guy's plagiarized webpage OFF the web by >contacting the people who run Tripod (where his page is based)? >Unfortunately, the smart ass doesn't give his e-mail address on that web >page so the only way we can contact him may be through Tripod. Maybe some of >you out there have more experience with this kind of stuff and can give us >some hints..... > [more snip] I'd start by notifying Tripod. When you prepared your page, did you include any author information in the html? If so, download the pirate page and look for any tell-tale marks. That might help with Tripod. If Tripod is unhelpful, the next question is how much time, effort, and money are you willing to spend to go after the miscreant? You need to consider that soon, as this kind of stuff often turns into an expensive battle. Another thing to do is to look into filing for US copyrights. Although in the US you have a copyright from when your creation is put into tangible form, filing with the copyright office allows you to sue for statutory damages, rather than trying to prove actual damages. And the statutory damages are substantial. While you're in Brasil, Tripod is probably in the US, and so you'd need to go after them and their customer in the US. Good luck Carl. ################### From: "RICHARD DAVION" Date: Sat, 15 Jan 2000 00:55:10 +1030 Subject: VISITING RIGHTs Whilst VISITING SITEs Dear All I'd take the plagiariZing of the BraZilian CP WebSite as a complement to it's quality, the integrity of those behind it and as an indictment on the morals of our modern youth. I think the situation will only become 'bizarre' if the mentioned intruder / trespasser turns round and tries to sue those behind the machinations of the site for infringement of 'His' copyrighted photos and information!? We can only hope that the 'good guys' in this scenario have had the foresight to physically copyright all 900 photos if not electronically encrypt their JPEGs. Another notch in the bedpost of the almost outdated SnailMail and GPOs in general!? R-well at least it's an advanced warning / lesson for all us slowbies and would-be WebMasters who haven't as yet 'gotton' around to uploading their uplifting & imaginative WebSites onto the World Wide Web, R but the sheer 'veracity' of the chap somehow seems to make me want to smile. *WinK* WWW ... THE NEW FRONTIER - Loose Rules & No Laws, DAVION |Bb3, B3, D4, F4, F#4, C#4, Bb3, F#3| >(*U*)<>(*U*)<>(*U*)< |C#4, D4, F4, Ab4, Bb4, F#4, Eb4, Bb3| ################### From: Michael Vanecek Date: Fri, 14 Jan 2000 09:23:11 -0600 Subject: Re: VISITING RIGHTs Whilst VISITING SITEs Wrong. Especially when the intruder claims his own rights to the plagiarized material and claims to have created the site himself and threatens legal action himself if someone ELSE copies the site, it definately is NOT a compliment, but outright THEFT. There's a big difference between mirroring and stealing. That a thief breaks in and steals my nice sterio system isn't cause to feel complimented because the thief thought my sterio system was nice. I think this should be fought tooth and nail with no quarter given... RICHARD DAVION wrote: > > Dear All > > I'd take the plagiariZing of the BraZilian CP WebSite as a > complement to it's quality, the integrity of those behind it and as > an indictment on the morals of our modern youth. -- Cheers, Mike http://dotfile.net/ mailto:info@dotfile.net <-------------------------------------------------> "My zeal to start using Linux is stronger than my fear of looking like a dummy." --Some Wise Man <-------------------------------------------------> Why does Sea World have a seafood restaurant? I'm halfway through my fishburger and I realize, Oh my God....I could be eating a slow learner. ################### From: Barry Meyers-Rice Date: Fri, 14 Jan 2000 08:42:20 -0800 (PST) Subject: Plagiarized web page Hey Folks, Fernando's fate with his web page is very annoying, but unfortunately not a new thing. I've had entire selections of my web presence stolen. I encourage everyone with a large web presence to include a clear statement of intellectual property. This helps some... Furthermore, if anyone finds that a person on the CP Web Ring is displaying material that has been stolen, please contact the ICPS immediately. Justice will be swift in these cases. :) Cheers Barry ------------------------ Dr. Barry A. Meyers-Rice Carnivorous Plant Newsletter Conservation Coeditor barry@carnivorousplants.org http://www.carnivorousplants.org ################### From: "Philip Semanchuk" Date: Fri, 14 Jan 2000 16:59:18 -0500 Subject: Re: BRAZILIAN CP WEBPAGE PLAGIARIZED!!!!!!!!!!! > Our main question now is WHAT DO WE DO??? And WHAT CAN WE DO??? >Is it possible to somehow get this guy's plagiarized webpage