################### From: Chris Marsden Date: Fri, 1 Jan 1999 17:52:01 -0500 Subject: More U. gibba Hi folks, thanks for the replies on the Lowrie front, and: I have yet more U. gibba to give away to people in the EU/EC/E-whatever. I can't remember if I could fill all of the requests I got last time, but in case I didn't, more people have joined the list, or the stuff I sent out has died, please feel free to ask for some. Postage would be appreciated (begging bowl mode ON) but is by no means essential (excess christmas cheer mode OFF). It grew from a microscopic strand in my aquarium (I didn't even know it was there) into a mass covering almost the whole aquarium. Anyone who has ever grown this plant will know all about this!! For those that don't know, it is an aquatic bladderwort that does extremely well floating on the surface in fish tanks (tropical or coldwater), with or without fish. In fact, you might say it's a little hard to kill. I would say it is very hard to kill, but then I'm biased... I've grown it. Kindest Regards and best wishes for a very good growing 1999, Toby -- Toby Marsden -- UK ################### From: "David E. Heule" Date: Fri, 1 Jan 1999 19:06:31 -0500 Subject: P.lutea Happy New Year to All, Has anyone noticed the rotation of the P.lutea flower during it's growth period. This is the second year I've had the Ping. flower and notice the rapid rotation of the flower again this season. Almost 360 degrees / hour. Thanks. Dave Heule [HTML file part2 deleted by listprocessor] ################### From: "Carl Strohmenger (HSC)" Date: Fri, 1 Jan 1999 19:27:16 -0500 (EST) Subject: Re: P.lutea This is strange. I have observed P. lutea for many years and never noticed this behavior. This year, I am going to sit down with the flowering plants for at least 30 minutes for an extended observation period. 360 degrees an hour translates into 6 degrees per minute. Amazing! - Carl On Fri, 1 Jan 1999, David E. Heule wrote: > Happy New Year to All, Has anyone noticed the rotation of the > P.lutea flower during it's growth period. This is the second year > I've had the Ping. flower and notice the rapid rotation of the > flower again this season. Almost 360 degrees / hour. Thanks. > Dave Heule > > [HTML file part2 deleted by listprocessor] > > ################### From: "Richard Brown" Date: Fri, 01 Jan 1999 19:32:51 -0500 Subject: Re:Sarracenia Winter Dormancy Hey Everybody, Happy New Year! Those of us living in South Florida are experiencing one of the mildest winters ever. At my place, about a mile from the Atlantic Ocean, I've had two nights drop all the way down to 52 degrees F in the wee hours of the morning, and I've had one day actually never get above 75 degrees F. Needless to say, I have not even put plastic up over my Nepenthes lathe house yet. By the way, both the lowland and highland species seem to enjoy the cool nights (typically upper 60's F) and warm days (low 80's F). It makes one wonder if the majority of Neps couldn't be grown together under one set of temps (excluding a handful of super-high altitude species). Now to my question. Because of my wonderful natural Nepenthes conditions, I'm having a really difficult time getting my Sarracenias to go to sleep! I lost a bunch of them a couple of years ago to overly warm conditions- they literally grew themselves to death. They were replaced with a small collection of nice, select seedlings two years ago, and they have grown. To "winterize" them, I place distilled water ice cubes in their pots every other night, and sometimes even twice a day (Yes, it is labor intensive). I'm getting some phyllodia, but some real pretty "winter pitchers" also. They like the ice cubes! I've talked to a couple of Digest regulars about removing my Sarrs. from their pots, rinsing them clean, putting the tubers, sans leaves, into zip lock bags, and then depositing them for two months in the lower regions of the refrigerator. I don't want to lose these babies. Any comments or advice on this procedure? Thanks in advance. Trent Meeks Pompano Beach, Fl. ################### From: TANWK Date: Sat, 02 Jan 1999 10:12:00 +0800 Subject: RE: CP Stamps Greetings from Singapore. I saw the mention of N.madagascarensis below. Does any one happen to have spares of the N.madagascarensis stamps (Year 1973 Scott Number 496, and Year 1973 Scott Number 497) to exchange or sell? I have spares of the following CP stamps in exchange: Laos 1995 Scotts # 1237, 1239, 1240, 1241, 1242 Brunei $5 note (N. lowii) Malaysia $20 note (N.rafflesiana) Malaysia stamps of N.lowii, N.rajah, N.sanguinea and N.macfarlanei. >From: Angie Nichols >Subject: Lowes CPs >Message-ID: <368BCC27.2839@sccoast.net> >Eric, the Nepenthes that the chain stores sell is >usually N.madacascarensis. Angie Regards and have a great Year 1999. Tan Wee Kiat ################### From: "Charles Redding" Date: Sat, 02 Jan 1999 09:02:53 PST Subject: More weird things with my Drosera Capensis Happy New Year Some of my D. capensis are still producing the split leaves so now my plants are producing regular and split leaves someone suggested that it may be a staghorn sundew but it wouldnt have produced the capensis leaves too would it? Someone else's D adelae did basically the same mine is doing and there was a pic on the digest mine looks similar except mine are split about one inch give or take. I cannot think of my this could be happening so if anyone can give me some insight or even just share a strange happening with your plants that would be great! Thanks Charles Redding Fl. ################### From: "Jon T. Lindstrom" Date: Sat, 02 Jan 1999 15:03:07 -0600 Subject: Sarracenia dormancy Trent Meeks writes: >I've talked to a couple of Digest regulars about >removing my Sarrs. from their pots, rinsing them clean, putting the tubers, >sans leaves, into zip lock bags, and then depositing them for two months in >the lower regions of the refrigerator. I don't want to lose these babies. >Any comments or advice on this procedure? > I grow my Sarracenias in New Zealand Sphagnum moss. In the late fall, I put pot and all in a plastic bag and place them in the butter comparment of my refrigerator (S. oreophila and flava seedlings). I check them every three weeks or so and remove them from cold storage in late January. They survive fine. I do not remove the leaves or remove the substrate from the roots. Jon T. Lindstrom Fayetteville, AR ################### From: Andrew Broome Date: Sun, 03 Jan 1999 22:11:23 +1300 Subject: Re: More weird things with my Drosera Capensis Charles wrote... >Some of my D. capensis are still producing the split leaves so now my >plants are producing regular and split leaves someone suggested that it >may be a staghorn sundew but it wouldnt have produced the capensis >leaves too would it? Someone else's D adelae did basically the same mine >is doing and there was a pic on the digest mine looks similar except >mine are split about one inch give or take. I cannot think of my this >could be happening so if anyone can give me some insight or even just >share a strange happening with your plants that would be great! The only time I've seen something similar in my D. capensis (in this case, the 'alba' form) was just after treating the plant with 'Malathion' (maldison) to shift some persistant aphids. A leaf or two later they came right. My guess is that it was some sort of response to extreme stress from the (nasty) chemical on the leaves that were forming at the time the spray was applied. Just my thoughts... Andrew@home. *NZKA 137, NAKA 5, SKG, AKA 07212, BKA 073.05, PNAS, MFEC *NZHS, NZCPS... * Thought of you as my mountaintop, thought of you as my peak, * Thought of you as everything, I've had but could not keep. * - (Pale Blue Eyes) - The Velvet Underground *Killies: Ducatis: Reptiles & Amphibians: Carnivorous Plants: ################### From: "It's me again!!!" Date: Wed, 30 Dec 1998 16:29:41 +0100 Subject: Utricularia. Hi I am new here. I am looking for seedlings or small plants of Utricularia. I wish it was the easiest to grow specie. I am writing from Poland. If you have this plant for sale or know someon who can sell it please let me know Thank you in advance Looking forward to hearing from you kowal PS. I would love to have any CP growers on my ICQ list my number is 2452546 please add me. [HTML file part2 deleted by listprocessor] ################### From: "Charles Redding" Date: Sun, 03 Jan 1999 10:27:12 PST Subject: More weird capensis I just noticed that off some of the stalks is 2 leaves it forks right at the bottom and there is a regular capensis leaf and a split leaf like I talked about before Things just getting weirder and weirder Charles in Fl ################### From: VFTMaxwell@aol.com Date: Sun, 3 Jan 1999 20:40:46 EST Subject: Questions of plants Does anybody know when I should take out my VFT and Cobra Lilie out of the fridge and freezer? Does anybody know how to tell when to take out my seeds of my D. capensis? Does anybody know how to take out my seeds of D. capensis? Regards, Cire Lewxam ################### From: drury6@juno.com Date: Sat, 2 Jan 1999 21:29:09 -0600 Subject: growing Sarracenia in Oklahoma I live in Eastern Oklahoma, and I would like to know if my climate would be suitable to grow Sarracenias, and maybe Dioneas outside, unfortunatly, some times the temperatures can be around 45 degrees celcius (112 F) for a week on end, I would probably water daily. I most likely wouldnt be able to water at noon though, just mornings and evenings. The humidity is exceptionaly variable, but stays 60-70% RH most of the time during the summer. I will be able to keep them from freezing during winter. Thank You, Don Drury ################### From: storkus@storkus.com Date: Sun, 3 Jan 1999 23:21:53 -0800 (PST) Subject: Climate and species questions I've just bought my 7th (in my life) Venus Flytrap and I intend on making sure it lives for a long time. However, I need some questions answered that aren't clearly answered in the CP FAQ, mainly about temperature. I am in Reno, Nevada, an area on the border of high desert (to the east) and high mountains (the Sierra Nevadas to the west). In the summer, temps range from upper 80's to lower 90's during the hottest months (35 C or so), though occasional hot snaps occur that can push the temperature to 100; humidity in the summer extremely low during the day, sometimes falling to as low as 10% during the hottest parts of the day (it goes back up at night to as high as 40-50% during pre-dawn, though). In the winter, though, things are totally different. Temps (both lows and highs) can vary wildly depending on weather patterns, though the norms are supposed to be in the 40's (5-10 degrees C) during the day and lower 20's to mid-upper teens at night (-5 to -10 C or so). However, as I said, this can vary wildly, sometimes from day to day: one day you may have a high in the 60's and the next may not even get above freezing (this happened the week before Christmas, for instance--remember the big Canadian arctic air mass that decended and enveloped the whole continental U.S.?) So I guess my question is, what are the extremes that can be tolerated by the VFT? (Especially low temps.) My second question is, there's apparently this man-eating (*grin*) sundew that can span as much as a meter/yard across. My encyclopedia says it's D. gigantia or something similar, but I can find no reference to it anywhere on the 'net. What species is this giant sundew, can I get it, how hard is it to cultivate, etc? Thanks for any and all help! Mike -- ****************************************************************************** * Mike P. Storke, Owner, Linux consultant Web Hosting * * Storke's Technologies Hosting Services www.storkus.com E-Mail Lists * * 264 Thoma Street #2 Reno, NV 89502-0966 Shell Accounts * * (877) 589-5753 in USA, +1 (775) 332-3715 outside USA AND MORE! * * Small on prices and size, but big on service and value! * ****************************************************************************** ################### From: "nigel hurneyman" Date: Mon, 04 Jan 1999 02:52:20 PST Subject: Re: Spanish and more on my VFTs Thanks Karen. I think I missed out a Portuguese connection somewhere. For example, a lot of Brazilian footballers have names ending in nha eg Mirandinha, usually pronounced by commentators as Mirandinya. Would any Brazilians like to comment - should the fish be pronounced piranya? (I saw the old Bond movie 'You only live twice' over the holiday, and I'm sure Ernst Stavro Blofeld pronounced it pirana). Regarding the discussions of D capensis with split leaves, my Boston fern (Nephrolepis cv) split several of its fronds immediately after Chernobyl - but never before or since. Charles, do you live near a dodgy nuclear installation? (Our hi-tec office automation system has fallen victim from the year 1999 bug, hence the use of my reserve mailbox). Good Growing, NigelH ################### From: "Susan Farrington" Date: Mon, 4 Jan 1999 09:18:20 +0000 Subject: growing sarracenia in Oklahoma > I live in Eastern Oklahoma, and I would like to know if my climate > would be suitable to grow Sarracenias, and maybe Dioneas outside, > unfortunatly, some times the temperatures can be around 45 degrees > celcius (112 F) for a week on end, I would probably water daily. I most > likely wouldnt be able to water at noon though, just mornings and > evenings. The humidity is exceptionaly variable, but stays 60-70% RH > most of the time during the summer. I will be able to keep them from > freezing during winter. > So long as it's humid, I think you might be okay. Dry heat like that could be deadly, though. I would recommend a little bit of shade during the hottest part of the day, and definately grow them all in plenty big enough containers with lots of water. A sunken artificial bog type container would be best, to help keep the soil temperatures cool, and definitely don't grow them in pots sitting on dark asphalt or something tortuous like that. Sphagnum moss growing on top of the soil surface will also help to moderate the temperatures, but it will need sprinkling every morning and evening to keep alive when it's nasty. Good luck! Susan Farrington Missouri Botanical Garden ################### From: "Susan Farrington" Date: Mon, 4 Jan 1999 09:22:12 +0000 Subject: St. Louis ICPS Meeting To all in the St. Louis area... Weather permitting, we will be holding our second meeting of the St Louis chapter of ICPS this Thursday, January 7, at 7pm at the Missouri Botanical Garden. We'll be showing slides of cp's in their native habitats, and will discuss some basic care and how to replicate their native habitats when growing them. All are welcome, beginners or experienced growers alike. For more information, contact me: Susan Farrington sfarrington@ridgway.mobot.org Missouri Botanical Garden ################### From: caroline Date: Mon, 4 Jan 1999 07:34:48 -0800 (PST) Subject: Need live sphagnum. Hi there. I am looking for live sphagnum, and cant find any reputable suppliers. Where can I buy some? Any suggestions? Where do ya'all get yours? Thanks Caroline, in central Oregon ################### From: "SARVER, CINDY" Date: Mon, 4 Jan 1999 08:40:13 -0800 Subject: Greenhouse Hi Folks, Well, 1999 is going to be the year of the greenhouse for me. I live in Southern California, so my biggest problem will be cooling in the summer. If anyone has any suggestions, ideas, favorite types of greenhouses, companies, etc., please email me! (Private replies are fine.) I'm thinking of creating a greenhouse for my highland plants, since my house itself is kind of a lowland environment. Any advice at all would be greatly appreciated. Thanks! -cindy ################### From: "Haakan Murevaern" Date: Sun, 3 Jan 1999 18:54:47 +0100 Subject: Gibberellic Acid ! PLEASE HELP !!!! Hello Robert and all, You should try Peter Cole Cambrian Carnivores. He sells it. Link from my home page. I got GA3 from him when I got my first B.gigantea to germinate. >From a lucky owner of B.gigantea Haakan Murevaern See my Carnivorous Plants at http://www.algonet.se/~murevarn [HTML file part2 deleted by listprocessor] ################### From: L235@aol.com Date: Mon, 4 Jan 1999 14:09:10 EST Subject: re: B. gigantea humidity Johnathan Mitchell asked about B. gigantea humidity a while back and I haven't seen a public posting yet ... so I'll take a stab: While I can't speak for seedlings, I grow an adult B. gigantea (thanks to Brian Cochrane) outside similarly to Sarracenia species. Average (for Northern Virginia) humidity. The only difference is that the Byblis is grown with less water in the tray than Sarracenia. Our humidity can reach 70 percent during the peak of summer, but 35-40 percent is not uncommon where I live. The plant is definitely not a "greenhouse" plant as far as I'm concerned. Jay Lechtman (L235@aol.com) Ashburn, Virginia, USA > I have a large batch of B. gigantea (of several forms) germinating right > now and was wondering what their humidity needs are. > I currently have them in a very high humidity environment with my Neps > and Droseras, but it would be great if I could move them out of the > terrariums into a lower humidity area (terrarium space being so > precious). > So, does this species require high humidity, or will the 40%-60% > humidity outside of my tanks be sufficient? > > Thanks- > > -Jonathan Mitchell > ################### From: Dave Date: Mon, 04 Jan 99 23:47 EST Subject: Re: scale/mealybug attack on Nepenthes Dear Steve, > I've got a white scale, or white mealybug attack, in the early stages on > one of my Nepenthes plants...I believe N. Rafflesiana. I applied safer > insecticidal soap to the affected leaves. Will this alleviate the > problem, or is there something else I should do? The Insecticidal Soap > contains potassium salts of fatty acids. This is a good plan for dealing with this type of scale. However, mealybugs can also infest the roots of your plants, as many a Sarracenia can attest. Keep an eye out for any bugs you didn't get the first time. Safer's isn't a poison and has to be sprayed directly on bugs you want to kill, and it is easy to miss some. If they are also in the soil/ roots, some real poisons (I have decided I don't like poison much and no longer advise on this subject as other's have much better advice than I) may be needed too. Dave Evans ################### From: "Tomasz Kowalski (ICQ#2452546)" Date: Tue, 5 Jan 1999 15:17:22 -0100 Subject: I wish to contact you on the ICQ Network Greetings, I have tried to contact you on the ICQ network but was unable to find you. Therefore I would like to invite you to join the ICQ Network. You can download ICQ from this html link. Once you do it, we will be able to communicate on-line. Click here to download ICQ: http://www.icq.com/ How to find me on the ICQ Network: I have 4 addresses on the ICQ Network: - My ICQ number is 2452546 - My Personal Communication Center on the Web, from which you can send me a message without having the ICQ program is http://wwp.mirabilis.com/2452546 - You can send me an Email Express which will appear directly on my computer screen to 2452546@pager.mirabilis.com. - My personal ICQ homepage is members.icq.com/2452546. If I am online you will be able to have a 2 way dialog with me from this page, which includes the World Wide Paging of ICQ. Seek you @ ICQ Tomasz Kowalski ICQ #: 2452546 ################### From: "Semanchuk, Phil J" Date: Tue, 5 Jan 1999 10:00:50 -0500 Subject: RE: Climate and species questions > I am in Reno, Nevada, an area on the border of > the whole continental U.S.?) So I guess my > question is, what are the extremes that can be > tolerated by the VFT? (Especially low temps.) Mike, the temparature ranges you cited (20 - 100F) are no problem for a VFT. I live in Durham, NC and my CPs spend all their time outside in pots. In winter I keep them packed side by side with dirt, wood chips and leaves around the pots to provide insulation. When I woke up this morning it was 16F outside -- well below average for us, but not unusual. Summertime temps often top out in the high 90s. What would concern me in your situation is humidity. CPs like high humidity and I believe they need it to tolerate heat well. The humidity here in summer usually hits 100% at night and drops down to 60% (?) during the day -- very different from your environment. Perhaps another grower with dry climate experience can help you out with this. Hope this helps Philip URL du Jour: http://www.netlink.co.nz/~monpa/ ################### From: JDPDX@aol.com Date: Tue, 5 Jan 1999 12:03:53 EST Subject: Re: Byblis gigantea culture In a message dated 1/4/99 10:29:49 PM Pacific Standard Time, cp@opus.hpl.hp.com writes: << I grow an adult B. gigantea (thanks to Brian Cochrane) outside similarly to Sarracenia species. >> Jay, How much cold is the plant capable of taking? Would it survive in the Pacific Northwest? Jeff Portland, OR ################### From: JDPDX@aol.com Date: Tue, 5 Jan 1999 12:08:27 EST Subject: Moss on pots A question for everyone. Overtime, all pots of CP grown in a greenhouse, or under lights begin to get a thick moss growing on the media. My observations have been that many plants, particularly D. capensis and VFT's start decreasing in growth when this moss gets too thick. Has this been others experience also? Has anyone experimented with keeping the moss plucked off, or using an inhibiting agent of some kind? I'd love to hear others experiences. Jeff Portland, OR ################### From: Chris Teichreb Date: Tue, 5 Jan 1999 09:48:22 -0800 (PST) Subject: Re: Moss on pots Hi Jeff, > A question for everyone. Overtime, all pots of CP grown in a > greenhouse, or under lights begin to get a thick moss growing on the > media. My observations have been that many plants, particularly D. > capensis and VFT's start decreasing in growth when this moss gets too > thick. Has this been others experience also? Yes, this has been my experience as well, especially with young plants, specifically Drosera spp. > > Has anyone experimented with keeping the moss plucked off, or using an > inhibiting agent of some kind? I'd love to hear others experiences. I just pluck the moss out occasionally to make sure that it doesn't overwhelm the plants. Otherwise, if the plant is above moss level, I tend to leave it alone, as it does look nice! I wouldn't recommend an inhibiting agent, as applied at high enough concentrations, this could kill your plant as well as the moss. Some say that moss growth is an indication of fertilization of the soil, however, I do not fertilize any of my plants (other than insects) and I know my soil ingredients are free of any nutrients which may give the moss a boost. It may help to steam sterilize the peat moss before use to kill off any moss spores, however, it seems to only prevent it for a little while, and the smell of cooking peat is not the most pleasant! > > Jeff > Portland, OR > Happy growing, Chris ********************************** Chris Teichreb Department of Biological Sciences Simon Fraser University Burnaby, B.C. cjteichr@sfu.ca ********************************** ################### From: "Andy Falshaw" Date: Wed, 6 Jan 1999 09:39:55 GMT+1200 Subject: Calibrating thermometers/measuring light levels I have recently bought a couple of cheap max-min thermometers from a local store. I put them next to my old thermometer for a weekend. All 3 were close (+/-1degree C) on the min temperature, but differed by 10 degrees C on the max. Now I don't know which if any of them to believe. I suppose I can check the lower end of the temperature range by putting them in the fridge or ice/water, but does anyone know of an easy way of checking them in the range 20-30 degrees C? I've recently moved a tank into my office, in the belief that it would get plenty of light. Well it seems I was wrong, and although I was getting sun a few weeks ago now that its mid summer here I'm getting little direct light. Is there any way to measure how much total light a tank gets over a day, and compare that with an "ideal" amount of light? Or should I just assume the more light the better and put a fluorescent of some sort on the tank? Thanks for any ideas/comments Andy in NZ - no snow, lots of sun, and a 5.2 on the Richter scale last week ################### From: Chris Teichreb Date: Tue, 5 Jan 1999 13:26:58 -0800 (PST) Subject: Re: Calibrating thermometers/measuring light levels Hi Andy, > I have recently bought a couple of cheap max-min thermometers from a > local store. I put them next to my old thermometer for a weekend. > All 3 were close (+/-1degree C) on the min temperature, but differed > by 10 degrees C on the max. Now I don't know which if any of them to > believe. > I suppose I can check the lower end of the temperature > range by putting them in the fridge or ice/water, but does anyone > know of an easy way of checking them in the range 20-30 degrees C? What's the local temp up to in your region? Is it possible to stick them all outside and then compare to readings at your local meteorological station? > > I've recently moved a tank into my office, in the belief that it > would get plenty of light. Well it seems I was wrong, and although I > was getting sun a few weeks ago now that its mid summer here > I'm getting little direct light. Is there any way to measure how > much total light a tank gets over a day, and compare > that with an "ideal" amount of light? Or should I just assume the more > light the better and put a fluorescent of some sort on the tank? There are ways of measuring cumulative incoming radiation, but most involve costly equipment. One way is to use the f-stop reading on a normal 35mm camera which can be related to incoming foot candles (ie: visible light radiation). I don't have the details handy, but I do remember posting something about this about a year ago. Anyways, take readings every hour or so and average them to get your average incoming light. For simplicity's sake, I'd personally put a fluorescent strip over if it looks like the plants are suffering. > > Thanks for any ideas/comments > Andy in NZ - no snow, lots of sun, and a 5.2 on the Richter scale > last week > Happy growing, Chris ********************************** Chris Teichreb Department of Biological Sciences Simon Fraser University Burnaby, B.C. cjteichr@sfu.ca ********************************** ################### From: garko@juno.com (Gary Kong) Date: Tue, 5 Jan 1999 20:55:46 -0800 Subject: Sarracenia and ants-- Hi Everyone-- My Sarracenia (leucophylla/flava hybrid) has yet to die back, so since all other food sources for ants have grown scarce, my plants have attracted swarms of ants. I've consistently observed the hoods and lips covered with ants during the cooler morning hours and later in the day when the sun has passed, but when the sun warms the pitchers, the ants almost seem to disappear. At first, I thought the ants were avoiding the sun and retreating to their nests, but then I began to notice that once the leaf surface warmed, the ants were less surefooted as they crossed over areas that had previously provided a foothold. Sure enough, the pitchers have gradually filled. My guess: the waxy cuticle warms, becomes slippery, dislodges wax more readily which clogs their foot parts--they can't hold on and fall in. In addition, earlier in the year when ants were avoiding the pitchers, I'd noticed small fruit flies and fungus gnats falling into the traps, but flying out unharmed. Now that the traps are full of swarming angry ants, anything that falls in becomes covered with ants and is unable to escape. Gruesome. Fascinating. Just thought I'd share, Gary ################### From: FOODBAG@aol.com Date: Wed, 6 Jan 1999 00:31:13 EST Subject: CP outside in the Midwest Hi everyone, Joe from Lincoln, Nebraska here. My two cents worth on putting CP outside in the warm months. I think it depends on the individual plant you have as to how well it succeeds. I have had VFTs outside and one will do great and another will not. I tried S. flava and S. purpurea venosa a few years ago and they thrived, but last year I tried a S. flava(different plant) and a S. leucophylla and the flava died and the leucophylla put out non-pitchered leaves only. I guess you can only figure out by trying. Here in Nebraska, you have to deal with wind as well as heat, so it can be hard to keep the plants humid, even sitting in trays and misting. The purpurea, being stout and lower to the ground, probably did well because of that compared to the taller pitcher plants. You may have to harden them slowly and start in shade before gradually giving them sun( I think Susan said that). I don't recommmend buying plants to grow outside if you don't have the facilities to put them elsewhere to grow if things go bad. Unless you don't mind taking a risk, of course. In any case, good luck. Regards, Joe ################### From: L235@aol.com Date: Wed, 6 Jan 1999 10:25:48 EST Subject: Re: B. gigantea cultivation (cold) Jeff Dallas wanted to know about B. gigantea cold tolerance, specifically, whether or not it would survive in the Pacific Northwest. I've never let my Byblis freeze, although it's certainly gotten close (low of 35 degrees F has been fairly constant over the last few weeks in the cold frame ... and it may even have dipped below 32 F once or twice before I put it under glass.) At 35 degrees, it is green and healthy and (apparently) happy. I hope you can extrapolate from this for your own growing conditions. Jay Lechtman (Jay@carnivorousplants.org) Ashburn, Virginia, USA "There's a fine line between a hobby and a mental illness" ... Dave Barry ################### From: "John Green" Date: Wed, 06 Jan 1999 08:43:00 -0700 Subject: Re:Climate questions Mike in Reno, Nevada asked about the climate conditions that CP and VFTs in particular can tolerate. I'm in Salt Lake City (not too far and very similar conditions) and I find that mine do best when I put them outside for the summer. I'm growing VFTs, Sarrs, and Drosera, mostly all in one big, long, deep, window box-type pot. I keep them in a sunny location, with maybe a bit of shade in the afternoon when it gets really hot and dry. I also try to find a location in the yard where they'll be protected from drying winds, such as a corner by a wooden fence or a hedge. The humidity seems to be high enough in the yard, and to make sure I usually water the grass and garden areas near the plants in the evening (spraying the hedges and fence, too), which I assume helps to keep the humidity a bit higher. They only seem to suffer when the temps get close to 100f and the humidity drops under 20%. I fill up the water tray every morning and usually after work on hot, breezy days. I put them on a wooden bench and a ll sorts of bugs find their way into the traps, including snails that I've found dead in the S. purpurea venosa. The plants have to come inside for the winter (it's way too cold outside now), and I have them in the coldest, draftiest window I could find in the house, and they're still dormant. Hope that helps. John Green ################### From: "David E. Heule" Date: Wed, 6 Jan 1999 10:53:51 -0500 Subject: Brocchinia reducta Question Hello to All, On the one plant that I am growing, I noticed at the very tip of two leaves, what appears to be small platelets starting to grow. Has anyone observed this kind of growth? And can the leaf be cut to propagate in this manner? Thanks. Dave Heule [HTML file part2 deleted by listprocessor] ################### From: "Brian Cochran" Date: Wed, 06 Jan 1999 08:15:32 PST Subject: Byblis conversations I've seen some questions here about Byblis giganteas and thought I'd offer some input. As young plants, good humidity and moderate temperatures are best. I keep mine under clear plastic cups with small holes punched in them under fluorescent lights with temps in the 50 to 70F range. I also keep them moister than I once wrote about and have had less losses with the seedlings. I start them around mid-November. Once they begin to outgrow the small cups I transplant them in larger pots and by March or April move them outside. When I say outside -- this is for those living in areas with moderately high relative humidity (i.e. the East, Northwest) Here, they have also experienced late frosts with no damage. I wouldn't let them freeze, but I've even had some plants that were a few seasons old freeze and come back. They're really tough plants once you get them established. By Summer, they'll take as much heat as the Sarracenias (as Jay mentioned.) Also, at this time the soil should look dry on top but be moist below. I accomplish this by top watering when young and by Summer switch to bottom watering (tray) but never let them sit in water. I had a devastating move to Colorado this past year and lost most of my Byblis plants in the move. I've now started more and oddly they seem to grow well in my highland chamber. I don't have any experience growing them outdoors here, but I don't think they'd like the low humidity here. Brian ################### From: Kirk Martin Date: Wed, 06 Jan 1999 11:35:58 -0500 Subject: Reno Nevada temperatures At 10:53 PM 1/5/99 -0800, you wrote: >Topic No. 2 > >Date: Tue, 5 Jan 1999 10:00:50 -0500 >From: "Semanchuk, Phil J" < >To: "'cp@opus.hpl.hp.com'" < >Subject: RE: Climate and species questions >Message-ID: <<854F7121CC2BD211856000805FE6EBD2010B9FEF@US4N49> > >> I am in Reno, Nevada, an area on the border of >< >> the whole continental U.S.?) So I guess my >> question is, what are the extremes that can be >> tolerated by the VFT? (Especially low temps.) > >Mike, the temparature ranges you cited (20 - 100F) are no problem for a VFT. >I live in Durham, NC and my CPs spend all their time outside in pots. In >winter I keep them packed side by side with dirt, wood chips and leaves >around the pots to provide insulation. When I woke up this morning it was >16F outside -- well below average for us, but not unusual. Summertime temps >often top out in the high 90s. What would concern me in your situation is >humidity. CPs like high humidity and I believe they need it to tolerate heat >well. The humidity here in summer usually hits 100% at night and drops down >to 60% (?) during the day -- very different from your environment. Perhaps >another grower with dry climate experience can help you out with this. > >I lived in Klamath Falls Oregon (260 miles north of Reno) recently and >the elevation (4100-5500 feet above sea level) greatly affected growing >plants outdoors since weather could be 60-70F quite late in the season >and then rapidly turn to snow overnight. I had a great deal of >difficulty keeping Sarracenia outside as they would break dormancy only >to be frozen to death by the sudden shock. Our growing season was in >essence June 15-August 15 to be reasonably certain of no frost. Legend >has it that it snowed on the fourth of July before in Klamath Falls. I think you would have better luck using the refrigerator method to induce dormancy. Good Luck, > Kirk W. Martin R.S. Associate Biosafety/Sanitation Officer Harvard University Environmental Health and Safety 46 Oxford Street Cambridge, MA. 02138 TEL: (617)495-2102 FAX: (617)495-0593 ffff,0000,0000Check out our Web Site 0000,0000,ffff- 0000,0000,fefehttp://www.uos.harvard.edu/ehs/ ################### From: Chris Teichreb Date: Wed, 6 Jan 1999 09:21:01 -0800 (PST) Subject: Re: B. gigantea cultivation (cold) Hi all, Peter D'Amato wrote an article in the CPN recently (Cultivating cp's: highs and lows; if I recall correctly), in which he talked about torturing B.gigantea by subjecting them to his winter. From what he indicated, they were able to survive quite low temperatures briefly, but didn't appreciate being waterlogged over the entire season. So, if you keep them in a well drained container, I'd say try it and see. Of course, make sure you have back-up plants indoors! Happy growing, Chris On Wed, 6 Jan 1999 L235@aol.com wrote: > Jeff Dallas wanted to know about B. gigantea cold tolerance, > specifically, whether or not it would survive in the Pacific > Northwest. > > I've never let my Byblis freeze, although it's certainly gotten close > (low of 35 degrees F has been fairly constant over the last few weeks > in the cold frame ... and it may even have dipped below 32 F once or > twice before I put it under glass.) > > At 35 degrees, it is green and healthy and (apparently) happy. > > I hope you can extrapolate from this for your own growing conditions. > > Jay Lechtman (Jay@carnivorousplants.org) Ashburn, Virginia, USA > "There's a fine line between a hobby and a mental illness" ... Dave > Barry > ********************************** Chris Teichreb Department of Biological Sciences Simon Fraser University Burnaby, B.C. cjteichr@sfu.ca ********************************** ################### From: Ide Laurent Date: Tue, 05 Jan 1999 22:58:53 +0100 Subject: Erratum Hi To all people who received somme gemmae from me recently : it appears the roseanna was mislabelled and are common D. nitidula omissa X occidentalis occidentalis. I've recently discovered this by showing my plants to another CPer. Sorry. Laurent Ide Mike, D. gigantea is a tuberous. Other info is available in the digest where your question appeared, indeed. What are the biggest droseras ? D. regia, D. gigantea... It seems D. indica is not so bad too ? What about D. macrophylla (dimensions please) ? Other data on this subject ? Take care ################### From: "It's me again!!!" Date: Wed, 6 Jan 1999 21:26:10 +0100 Subject: Hormones Hello I am looking for hormones for the plants just to cultivate pieces of them on the gel. I would like to buy hormones separatly I mean gibberelins, auxins, etilens and cytekisens (sorry for spelling I know only Polish names for them). If someone knows where I can find them please let me know. Thank you in advance looking forward to hearing from you kowal [HTML file part2 deleted by listprocessor] ################### From: ricell@juno.com Date: Wed, 6 Jan 1999 15:07:43 -0700 Subject: Carnivorous Plant Stamps Greetings stamp collectors, I am trying to gather all the Stanley Gibbons, Michel and Yvert & Tellier numbers for carnivorous plant stamps. If there are any stamp collectors out there who know these numbers for the 1995 Plantes Insectivores series from Laos or the 1985 Ivory Coast stamp of Triphyophyllum peltatum, I would be most grateful. Sincerely, Rich Ellis, Boulder, CO "ricell@juno.com" http://www.geocities.com/RainForest/Vines/8564/ ################### From: VFTMaxwell@aol.com Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1999 00:30:14 EST Subject: stamps In a message dated 1/2/99 1:25:57 AM Eastern Standard Time, cp@opus.hpl.hp.com writes: > Laos 1995 Scotts # 1237, 1239, 1240, 1241, 1242 > Brunei $5 note (N. lowii) > Malaysia $20 note (N.rafflesiana) > Malaysia stamps of N.lowii, N.rajah, N.sanguinea and > N.macfarlanei. Where'd you get them? ################### From: "Chris Hind" Date: Wed, 06 Jan 1999 21:35:49 PST Subject: Red Piranah... Coming Soon I know many of you are still waiting for me to return your emails and I guarantee I will email you back regarding trades but recently Ive had an overwhelming response to the red piranah cultivar and i need a bit of time. Trades will be established through email shortly and plants traded on the first warm week of spring. I'll keep you posted. ################### From: "Chris Hind" Date: Wed, 06 Jan 1999 23:02:42 PST Subject: Re: B. gigantea cultivation (cold) >Jeff Dallas wanted to know about B. gigantea cold tolerance, specifically, >whether or not it would survive in the Pacific Northwest. > >I've never let my Byblis freeze, although it's certainly gotten close (low of >35 degrees F has been fairly constant over the last few weeks in the cold >frame ... and it may even have dipped below 32 F once or twice before I put it >under glass.) > >At 35 degrees, it is green and healthy and (apparently) happy. > >I hope you can extrapolate from this for your own growing conditions. I live in the pacific southwest, specifically redondo beach, ca. I have my byblis up on my deck getting full sun all day with the exception of the marine layer overcast that comes every couple days. Its been getting incredibly and unusually cold but my byblis can take it. I went outside one morning and my windshield was a plate of ice, (unheard of down here) and my byblis took it with damp soil nicely so im guessin its pretty hardy course I was scared to death the frost had killed it. Its actually getting healthier now, nice and gooey. ################### From: GkramIII@aol.com Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1999 02:57:31 EST Subject: Feeding VFTs I have kept VFTs for several years now inside my house under growlights. Since these plants get little in the way of bugs they catch, I feed them on a regular (once a week or two) basis. Usually only one trap per plant. I use to buy only enough crickets to feed to the plants that day. The plants grew well but never bloomed. But, now I feed only crickets that have been gut loaded with "cricket food" and orange slices. These crickets are "DUSTED" with a vitamin supplement just before feeding. Any unused crickets end up as dinner for my tree frogs (or vice versa). I figured that if it is good for the frogs, its good for the plants. The plants really love it!! I get three to four blossom cycles a year. It almost seems that they are either blooming or are sending up a floral stalk. I stopped pinching off the stalks because they just kept sending up replacements. Does anyone else feed your plants this way? Do you get the same results? Will this ( frequent blooming) hurt the plants in long run? Your comments would be apperciated. ################### From: "Marc I. Burack" Date: Thu, 07 Jan 1999 07:55:19 -0500 Subject: Re: Feeding VFTs At 12:02 AM 1/7/99 -0800, you wrote: >I have kept VFTs for several years now inside my house under >growlights. Since these plants get little in the way of bugs they >catch, I feed them on a regular (once a week or two) basis. Usually >only one trap per plant. I use to buy only enough crickets to feed to >the plants that day. The plants grew well but never bloomed. But, now >I feed only crickets that have been gut loaded with "cricket food" and >orange slices. These crickets are "DUSTED" with a vitamin supplement >just before feeding. Any unused crickets end up as dinner for my tree >frogs (or vice versa). I figured that if it is good for the frogs, its >good for the plants. The plants really love it!! I get three to four >blossom cycles a year. It almost seems that they are either blooming >or are sending up a floral stalk. I stopped pinching off the stalks >because they just kept sending up replacements. Does anyone else feed >your plants this way? Do you get the same results? Will this ( >frequent blooming) hurt the plants in long run? Your comments would be >apperciated. You are correct in "gut loading" your pet store bugs. For those of you who do not know what I am talking about, "gut loading" is allowing pet store insects to eat about 24 hours before feeding them to your plants. This is accomplished by throwing a piece of fruit into the insects box or bag and allowing them to feed. Most pet stores feed there live insects nothing more than dried potato pieces (and some not at all). By the time they are purchased, the bugs have very little nutritional value and according to a reptile grower I know, the insects are flirting with death since they are so deprived of food. I also "gut load" insects I purchase.......unfortunately it is a major pain in the ***. Marc I. Burack marcb@companionfinancial.com ################### From: Fabien ZUNINO Date: Thu, 07 Jan 1999 18:11:43 Subject: Nature et Paysages : New Webpage Hi all, Of course you know France with food (Foie gras, ...), Wine (Bordeaux, Champagne ...), la Tour Eiffel, etc... But do you know the wonderful carnivorous plants nursery NATURE ET PAYSAGES? If no, visit the following new Webpage : NATURE et PAYSAGES 32360 Peyrusse-Massas - France Tel 33 (5) 62 65 52 48 - Fax 33 (5) 62 65 50 44 E.mail nature-et-paysages@mipnet.fr http://www.gascogne.com/natureetpaysages/ So, this Webpage is in French and English language. Regards, Fabien ZUNINO Laboratoire de Chimie XII UMR 6514 - Synthese et Reactivite des Substances Naturelles Faculte des Sciences - 40 av. du Recteur Pineau - 86022 Poitiers Cedex - FRANCE Tel : 05 49 45 37 02 - Fax : 05 49 45 35 01 e-mail : zunino@campus.univ-poitiers.fr ################### From: S.Ippenberger@t-online.de (S.Ippenberger) Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1999 18:15:42 +0100 Subject: Re: Gibberellic Acid > in Topic No. 6, Thu, 31 Dec 1998 "CP-MAN" wrote: > Subject: Gibberellic Acid ! PLEASE HELP !!!! > Message-ID: <001401be3520$0543af20$8b8d2399@default> > > I need gibberellic acid very soon. I checked all my nursery stores and no > one carries the stuff. Does anyone know of a good place on the web where I > can buy it? > > Thanks in advance, > Robert > In the U.S.A. one distributor of Gibberellic Acid A3 is Sigma Chemical Company, P.O. Box 14508, St. Louis, MO 63178 They sell it (in their European Catalogue) in batches of 500mg, 1g, 5g and 10g. Price for 500mg in Europe is about US$ 25 including postage. Hope this helps Stefan ################### From: Barry Meyers-Rice Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1999 09:41:57 -0800 (PST) Subject: CPN seeks a font Hi all, In an approaching issue of CPN we will need to print the greek male/female symbols. I am looking for a font that has this. I know that the font that came with word perfect 6.1, WP IconicSymbolsA, included these symbols. Does anyone on this list have this font, or a font that has the male/female symbols? I'd like to hear from you if you do. Time is of the essence! Please email me directly! Sincerely Barry ------------------------ Dr. Barry A. Meyers-Rice Carnivorous Plant Newsletter Conservation Coeditor barry@carnivorousplants.org http://www.carnivorousplants.org ################### From: CALIFCARN@aol.com Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1999 15:51:17 EST Subject: Re: We're freezing our gemmae off! Howdy folks, Peter here at California Carnivores in cold California. Well, at least the north state is cold while southern Cal simmers in 80 degree temperatures. It seems "these days" we have no more normal weather; every year it's extremes! I got a call from a producer at the Home and Garden Network, which is a cable network here in the States (don't know if its overseas). She reports that the program called "Extreme Gardens" will premier on the network January 17, Sunday, at 5 pm Pacific Time, and it has the segment they filmed here at the nursery last summer. It will run about a dozen times over the next few months. We haven't seen the segment ourselves, and we don't get the network on our cable service, but the producer promises to send us a copy. As to the Byblis gigantea discussion, as someone already mentioned, my experiment with the plants outdoors showed they survived brief freeze, but both plants died after being waterlogged for eight months in last year's El Nino and 90 inches of rain we got. I'll not try them again outdoors in winter here. We have only a few of Tom Carow's 1999 Calendars left, so if anyone's still interested, he who hesitates.... Th-th-th-th-th-th-that's all folks! Peter ################### From: "William M. Gorum, Jr." Date: Thu, 07 Jan 1999 16:42:14 -0600 Subject: introduction and a question Hello Everyone.... I've just recently joined the CP List, and I would like to take some time to introduce myself. My name is Will Gorum. I'm 21 years old and I live in Shreveport, Louisiana, USA. I am self-employed as an American Sign Language Interpreter (Interpreter for the Deaf), and I am currently growing VFT's, Cape Sundews (Drosera capensis), an unidentified (to me, anyway) Sundew and some sort of Nepenthes, who also is an uknown. My question is this. My unknown Sundew and Nepenthes were given to me by a friend who picked them up at a local nursery. According to the enclosed literature, they were both propagated by tissue culture. They are potted in 3 inch (7.5 cm) pots and they have those little plastic cup "dome" tops over them. Going by past experience, plants that I've left in the domes always fungus. I popped the dome off and checked the plants a few hours later. The mucous droplets had "evaporated" from the Sundew and the Nepenthes had started to wilt. I quickly placed the dome on them and placed them in a window receiving southern exposure sunlight. The sundew has wilted some, but the droplets are reforming, but the Nepenthes is starting to look "burnt" on the edge of the leaves, i.e., it looks like it is dying. Any suggestions will be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Will Gorum wgorum@softdisk.com ################### From: Paul Temple Date: Thu, 07 Jan 1999 22:46:06 +0000 Subject: Re: David's Brocchinia plantlets David Take photos!!! Chau Paul ################### From: "Tom Smith" Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1999 20:32:22 -0800 Subject: Wholesale Venus Flytraps Hello! I am interested to find a distributor or wholesaler of VFT. I would like them potted up and ready for shipment. VFT bulbs would also interest me. I am not interested in purchasing field collected specimens. Thanks to anyone that can help! Tom [HTML file part2 deleted by listprocessor] ################### From: CMcdon0923@aol.com Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1999 23:01:31 EST Subject: Texas Cp Enthusiasts My apologies to the majority of the list for posting this, but: A few weeks ago, Melissa Martin posted an intro and asked about other CP growers in the DFW Metroplex. I believe that including Melissa, there are at least four or five of "us" around here. Would there be any interest in getting together at a location convenient to everyone to meet? I offer myself as the 'point of contact' for coordinating this get- together. PLEASE REPLY TO ME DIRECTLY, AND NOT TO THE GENERAL LIST. (Melissa, if you have already gotten responses back from other DFW area growers, please include me, and let me know what's happening.) Thank you, and again, my apologies to the other listees. Craig McDonald Frisco, Texas ################### From: "Don Elkins/Sean Madison" Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1999 21:44:59 +1300 Subject: Re: carnivorous plant stamps The Scott# for the Laos series is 1237-1241 and for Triphyophyllum is 769c hope this helps Don Elkins [HTML file part2 deleted by listprocessor] ################### From: Emre_Gurcan@philips.com.tr Date: Fri, 8 Jan 1999 10:11:30 +0200 Subject: CP sources in LA One quick question: I will be in the LA area next week. Can anyone recommend a good source for CP in the Southern California area? You can email me privately. Thanks in advance for your help. Emre ################### From: John M Ford Date: Fri, 8 Jan 1999 11:25:24 -0500 (EST) Subject: Re: CPN seeks a font Barry, I'm using Windows95 and found them in the true type r_symbol font. Enter Win95 help | click the index tab | enter symbols in the search field | select inserting into documents | click the icon to bring up the character map and follow the instructions in the help window. With Word97, step 6 is not necessary. Hope this is what you were looking for, John jford@runet.edu > In an approaching issue of CPN we will need to print the greek male/female > symbols. I am looking for a font that has this. I know that the font that > came with word perfect 6.1, WP IconicSymbolsA, included these symbols. > > Does anyone on this list have this font, or a font that has the > male/female symbols? I'd like to hear from you if you do. Time is of the > essence! Please email me directly! > ################### From: "Christensen" Date: Sun, 3 Jan 1999 16:15:17 -0700 Subject: moss in my cp soil I often use a 1/2sand 1/2peat mixture for my cp. Always, I try to sterilize my soil using a microwave or oven. However, eventually moss begins to grow with my cp. Lucky for me, the moss that sneaks into my carnivorous plants is not a kind that will overwhelm a small cp. The moss that grows here is very compact, and tolerant of extreme temps. It survives 90F and low humidity in the summer and -10F cold in the winter. With my carnivorous plants, the tallest I've seen it grow is aprox. 1cm. I wonder, how many moss spores are floating in the air I'm breathing? How many moss spores are in a Liter of my sand? Maybe, the only way to grow carnivorous plants, without moss, is growing them in tissue culture media. However, there are carnivorous plants that grow better with moss. That's my impression from what I've read in CPN and this mailing list. Chad. ################### From: Chris Teichreb Date: Fri, 8 Jan 1999 10:30:10 -0800 (PST) Subject: Re: moss in my cp soil Hi Chad, > I often use a 1/2sand 1/2peat mixture for my cp. > Always, I try to sterilize my soil using a microwave or oven. > However, eventually moss begins to grow with my cp. That technique probably doesn't kill off all the spores as they can be heat resistant. If the moss is wetted and then heated, that will probably get rid of most of the spores. Pressure cooking (ie: autoclaving) will sterilize the soil for sure. > > Lucky for me, the moss that sneaks into my carnivorous plants > is not a kind that will overwhelm a small cp. > > The moss that grows here is very compact, and tolerant of > extreme temps. It survives 90F and low humidity in the summer > and -10F cold in the winter. With my carnivorous plants, the > tallest I've seen it grow is aprox. 1cm. This is the same stuff that grows in my pots, and rosetted sundews, especially when young, are easily overwhelmed. While it does grow taller than most of the terrestrial Utrics, it doesn't seem to affect them. > > I wonder, how many moss spores are floating in the air I'm > breathing? How many moss spores are in a Liter of my sand? If you're worried about moss spores germinating within your body, don't :)! If you're handling the soil with your hands, there's probably spores on your body, in your clothes, etc. Even going outside for a walk can result in picking up a few spores. It's just a matter of time! No, I'm not paranoid :)! > > Maybe, the only way to grow carnivorous plants, without moss, > is growing them in tissue culture media. However, there are > carnivorous plants that grow better with moss. That's my > impression from what I've read in CPN and this mailing list. Yes, I agree. If you don't want moss growing, you have to grow your plants in tc. The type of moss that grows on the soil is, however, unsuitable for cp cultivation as it's too fine and compact and is actually quite dry to the touch. However, mosses that you find growing in the bog are extremely ideal for many cp, IME, but do need occasional trimming. > > Chad. > > Happy growing, Chris ********************************** Chris Teichreb Department of Biological Sciences Simon Fraser University Burnaby, B.C. cjteichr@sfu.ca ********************************** ################### From: Chris Teichreb Date: Fri, 8 Jan 1999 10:22:07 -0800 (PST) Subject: Re: introduction and a question Hi Will, > My question is this. My unknown Sundew and Nepenthes were given to me > by a friend who picked them up at a local nursery. According to the > enclosed literature, they were both propagated by tissue culture. They > are potted in 3 inch (7.5 cm) pots and they have those little plastic > cup "dome" tops over them. Sound's like Gubler's to me. > Going by past experience, plants that I've > left in the domes always fungus. Good plan so far. See below though. > I popped the dome off and checked the > plants a few hours later. The mucous droplets had "evaporated" from the > Sundew and the Nepenthes had started to wilt. I quickly placed the dome > on them and placed them in a window receiving southern exposure > sunlight. The sundew has wilted some, but the droplets are reforming, > but the Nepenthes is starting to look "burnt" on the edge of the leaves, > i.e., it looks like it is dying. Any suggestions will be greatly > appreciated. Well, these plants have been grown in very 'soft' conditions, ie: extremely high humidity. The leaves don't have a chance to toughen up and will, as you've experienced, wilt when exposed to regular air humidity. You are right though in that the domes aren't beneficial as they will lead to fungus. So, what to do? First, take them away from the south window. If they're not already dead, they soon will be baked in the heat. Place them in a well lit area which is out of direct sunlight. Secondly, leave the dome on and slowly remove it over a period of a couple of weeks so that it slowly becomes accustomed to your climate and indoor conditions. Once acclimated to your humidity, then you can gradually move it closer to the window and direct sunlight. The moral of the above? Plants respond poorly to rapid changes in their environment, so care must be taken to account for this. Hope this helps! > > Thanks, > Will Gorum > wgorum@softdisk.com > > > Happy growing, Chris ********************************** Chris Teichreb Department of Biological Sciences Simon Fraser University Burnaby, B.C. cjteichr@sfu.ca ********************************** ################### From: CALIFCARN@aol.com Date: Fri, 8 Jan 1999 15:56:41 EST Subject: Re: Extreme Gardens Hello, all, Marilee here with an update from Peter here at California Carnivores...For those of you who'd like to see the show, it has been moved up to Sunday January 10th..It will run twice that day, at 9 and 12 EST...6 and 9 PST.... Its the Better Homes and Garden Television Network. I understand it will also still run on January 17th as originally posted..I'd love to see it, just to remember what the greenhouse looks like when its warm and the sun is out..LOL... ################### From: "Paul V. McCullough" Date: Fri, 08 Jan 1999 16:35:21 -0500 Subject: Winter in my terrarium! Well, this second big snow storm brought an inch or two of snow to the inside of my Klimagro! I decided since the dormancy requiring plants are sleeping now, that it wouldn't hurt to pile some snow on top of them- a few flytraps were still active and snapped up the snow much to my surprise! I didn't sprinkle any snow on top of my tropical sundews, but they'll still get the run off from the melting snow. It's a win-win arrangement. Looks really cool to see the minature snow land this has created! Time to fill up some empty distilled water bottles with snow-water! Cheers, Paul -- Paul V. McCullough Webpage: http://www.voicenet.com/~pvmcull ################### From: "Kelley, Ian" Date: Fri, 8 Jan 1999 14:23:08 -0800 Subject: Dormancy and Repotting - a question A question of general interest: I live in the temperate San Francisco Bay area, days in the 60's and nights in the 40's. I move my dormancy-loving plants from the windowsill to the outside fire escape for winter, generally November to February. I am getting ready to repot, both to divide some Sarraceneae (sp?) and to give some growing room to the others. I am interested on any insight into timing that folks care to offer - is it best to repot as I'm bringing them in for spring growing? Should I repot now, giving them another month of outdoor dormancy to adjust? Any repotting tips or tricks that folks have to share? It seems like a timely thread. Thanks in advance for any takers, - Ian ################### From: "Christensen" Date: Sun, 3 Jan 1999 23:49:04 -0700 Subject: Predaceous Fungi Among the most highly specialized of the fungi are the predaceous fungi, which have developed a number of mechanisms for capturing small animals they use as food. Although microscopic fungi with such habits have been know for many years, recently it has been learned that a number of species of gilled fungi also attack and consume the small roundworms known as nematodes. The oyster mushroom, Pleurotus ostreatus, for example, grows on decaying wood (a, b). Its hyphae secrete a substance that anesthetizes nematodes, after which the hyphae envelop and pene- trate these tiny worms. The fungus appar- ently uses them primarily as a source of nitrogen, thus supplementing the low lev- els of nitrogen that are present in wood. Some of the microscopic deutero- mycetes secrete on the surface of their hy- phae a sticky substance in which passing protozoa, rotifers, small insects, or other animals become stuck (c). More than 50 species of this group trap or snare nema- todes. In the presence of these round- worms, the fungal hyphae produce loops that swell rapidly, closing the opening like a noose when a nematode rubs against its inner surface. Presumably the stimulation of the cell wall increases the amount of os- motically active material in the cell, caus- ing water to enter the cells and increase their turgor pressure. The outer wall then splits, and a previously folded inner wall expands as the trap closes. (a)The oyster mushroom, Pleurotus ostreatus. (b)Hyphae of the oyster mushroom, which produce a substance that anesthetizes, converg- ing on the mouth of an immobilized nematode. (c)The predaceous deuteromycete Arthrobotrys anchonia has trapped a nematode. The trap consists of rings, each comprising three cells, which when triggered swell rapidly to about three times their original size in 0.1 second and strangle the nematode. Once the worm has been trapped, fungal hyphae grow into its body and digest it. ------------------------------------------------------ Biology of Plants sixth edition by Peter H. Raven, Ray F. Evert, Susan E. Eichhorn W.H. Freeman & Company Worth Publishers page 333 The letters (a), (b), and (c) refer to three captions. (a, b) G. L. Barron, University of Guelph (c) N. Allin and G. L. Barron, University of Guelph ################### From: aquilla2@juno.com Date: Sat, 9 Jan 1999 08:51:33 -0800 Subject: Re:CP on Home and Garden Television SUNDAY Jan 10 Saw a trailer for a feature to be shown, on the Home and Garden cable television channel, Sunday January 10 at 9pm EST. The feature was growing unusual plants and the video was VFT and Pitcher plants. Check your local cable TV or satelite TV guide for avaliability in your area. Can't elaborate any more detail as I just caught a glimpse of the end of the promotion. Michael A Sankovich ################### From: SCHLAUER@chemie.uni-wuerzburg.de Date: Sun, 10 Jan 1999 09:23:06 Subject: Re: Predaceous Fungi Dear Christensen, > recently it has been learned that a number > of species of gilled fungi also attack and > consume the small roundworms known > as nematodes. The oyster mushroom, > Pleurotus ostreatus, for example, grows > on decaying wood (a, b). The paper in which this stuff was published originally (Science 224:76-78, 1984) is *fifteen* (!) years old. Do you still consider this as "recent"? Whisky and Cognac of comparable age are usually (and quite legitimately) sold as very old. What is the news? Kind regards Jan ################### From: dmjoel@mail.netvision.net.il (Daniel M. Joel) Date: Sun, 10 Jan 1999 13:14:16 +0200 (IST) Subject: Visit to Western Australia Hello, I will be in Perth, Western Australia next month. I would love to supplement my visit with a CP-related side trip for the weekend of 19-21 February. I am very keen on meeting good friends like Cephalotus and Drosera spp in their native habitats, as well as local CPers. Could somebody suggest sites to be visited ? Please e-mail me privately . Thanks in advance! Danny Joel ________________________________________________________ Dr. Daniel M. Joel Agricultural Research Organization Newe-Ya'ar Research Center P.O. Box 1021 RAMAT-YISHAY 30095, Israel. ________________________________________________________ Email: dmjoel@netvision.net.il fax. +972 4 983 6936 tel. +972 4 953 9529 ________________________________________________________ ################### From: prion@abdn.ac.uk (Prion Gwyn) Date: Sun, 10 Jan 1999 16:20:05 -0800 Subject: Adrian Slack's Carnivorous Plants book for sale Dear CPers, I've got a spare hardback copy of the book Carnivorous Plants by Adrian Slack for sale if anyone's interested. I picked it up from a second hand bookshop in the knowledge that some of you might want it! It's in great condition and a recommended read for both beginners and experienced Cpers. I'll sell it to the highest bidder who mails me privately. Sensible offers please... Good growing Prion Gwyn Aberdeen Scotland ################### From: "jav" Date: Sun, 10 Jan 1999 13:09:01 -0500 Subject: CP.=Mushrooms I heard about carnivorous mushrooms on a site somewhere and I haven't been able to locate any information on them. If anyone has info on any sites with them or any nurseries that have them, please let me know. Thank You! Joanna Fiut jav@blazenet.net ################### From: JWi5770869@aol.com Date: Sun, 10 Jan 1999 15:49:27 EST Subject: Darlingtonia Mixes 1-3 inc. Dear all, I was lucky enough to obtain Mixes 1,2 & 3 of the Darlingtonia seed , offered through the ICPS (although I received mine from the UK CPS) earlier in 98. All of the seed germinated(after getting a good soaking in GA) and the seedlings continue to grow. I was under the impression that mix 1 was of the pale /yellow flowered form of Darlingtonia and, obviously, as they are still only seedlings I cannot test this yet :) However what I have noticed from all three mixes is the actual colour of the new growth of the seedlings. Mix 1 seems to be all pale green or yellow Mix 2 seems to have a mix of the above with some plants having red growth Mix 3 has all red growth. Do I take it that the pale form of Darlingtonia also refers to the colour of the traps as well as the flowers? Apologies if this has already been discussed on the list, but if not has anyone else noticed this? John 'still looking for the white flowered P.grandiflora' Wilden Southport Lancs UK ################### From: "Christensen" Date: Tue, 5 Jan 1999 06:35:20 -0700 Subject: Re: Predaceous Fungi :) I didn't know about the paper published in Science 224:76-78. While browsing through Biology of Plants, I found an article about predaceous fungi. I typed ONLY the contents of the article. It had the most information I had seen (in one place) about predaceous fungi. I thought it was interesting so I typed and sent it to the mailing list. Omitting my personal opinion, I was curious about peoples responses (if any). Fifteen years! I guess the authors of the text book typed ONLY the contents of the article, too! Jan, thank you for clarifying where that paper was originally published. Chad. >Dear Christensen, >> recently it has been learned that a number >> of species of gilled fungi also attack and >> consume the small roundworms known >> as nematodes. The oyster mushroom, >> Pleurotus ostreatus, for example, grows >> on decaying wood (a, b). >The paper in which this stuff was published originally (Science >224:76-78, 1984) is *fifteen* (!) years old. Do you still consider >this as "recent"? Whisky and Cognac of comparable age are usually >(and quite legitimately) sold as very old. >What is the news? >Kind regards >Jan ################### From: "TomsRareplants" Date: Sun, 10 Jan 1999 21:11:25 -0000 Subject: Anyone have seed for sale ? Hi, Im Looking for seed if you has seed please let me know what you have, I have 5000 seeds of venus fly trap. Thanks, laura frittsmb@msn.com ################### From: CMcdon0923@aol.com Date: Sun, 10 Jan 1999 21:39:30 EST Subject: HGTV Extreme Gardens I just finished watching the segment on California Carnivores, and all I can say is: "It was too short!" I easilly could have watched a whole hour just on CC. Excellent job Peter! Craig McDonald ################### From: "Mark Pogany" Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1999 02:22:01 -0500 Subject: Extreme Gardens I share the same sentiments with Craig McDonald describing the segment aired on California Carnivores- WAY TOO SHORT! HGTV should do at least an hour on Peter's place and another exploring some native CP habitats around the US. I almost missed the 3 second shot of Peter's S. purpurea, a clone grown from his original childhood NJ plant. Glad I taped it! Buried in 16" of lake effect snow, Mark Pogany Cleveland, Ohio markp@en.com ################### From: "Stefan Ploszak" Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1999 00:34:23 PST Subject: Re: Extreme Gardens >I just finished watching the segment on California Carnivores, and all I can >say is: "It was too short!" I easilly could have watched a whole hour just >on CC. Excellent job Peter! > >Craig McDonald I enjoyed the segment as well. Having visited CA Carnivores, I kept hoping they would show some of the plants I enjoyed seeing when I was there. I want to commend Peter for mentioning the plight of the Venus flytrap. I think the general population needs to recognize that our carelessness with wetlands has a price. It's a tragedy that we still don't repect this. Stefan Gastonia, NC ################### From: "John Gicking (BIO)" Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1999 13:26:14 -0500 (EST) XSubject: Re: Extreme Gardens Howw do I unsubscribe? ################### From: "Christensen" Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1999 08:45:42 -0700 Subject: www/catalog Pleurotus ostreatus http://www.fungi.com/plugs/plugsa.html Pleurotus ostreatus. You can buy it, there. I have not done business with them, so I can't say if they're 'good' or 'bad' with customers. GURNEY'S SEED & NURSERY CO. 1999 SPRING CATALOG In my catalog, on page 14 at the bottom, there is a PEARL OYSTER MUSHROOM KIT. I'm not sure it is Pleurotus ostreatus, the advertisement doesn't state the scientific name. Is Pleurotus ostreatus the only fungi called the Pearl Oyster Mushroom? ################### From: "CP-MAN" Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1999 18:54:50 -0500 Subject: HGTV cp with Peter D' Amato Hi, I saw that segment last night on Peter's cp nursery. Peter I think you were cheated. It seems that they gave the least time out of any of the people. :( Very nice nusery btw. That was the first time I had seen it. Robert ################### From: "tierney wayne" Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1999 16:23:55 PST Subject: Hi everyone! I'm new... Hello all, I just joined this listserv and wanted to introduce myself. My name is Tierney, and I live in San Jose, California. I'm a student at San Jose State. I've been growing some CP for about 6 years now but my collection is still pretty small. I'm hoping to expand it this spring. Sadly, because I live in a small apartment while I go to school, I'm housing my collection at my mom's house in nearby Santa Cruz, so I'm trying to compensate by subscribing to this and doing lots of reading about CP. I'm really interested in the evolution and phylogeny of CP; if anyone can point me in the right direction to do some reading on this subject, I'd be very appreciative. Thanks! -Tierney (Hybrid-T) ################### From: Mike Vogl Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1999 18:00:38 +0000 Subject: Roridula questions Hello all- I just acquired some Roridula dentata seeds, and was seeking some advice on germination, culture, etc... any info would be greatly appreciated. First, how do I get them to germinate? I have heard that they are tough little suckers. Would scratching the seed coat, boiling, fire, gibb acid, or other similar treatment help? Or is this kind of abuse unnecesarry for Roridula? Second: when and if they do germinate, how do I care for them? Soil, light, humidity, etc... basically I can put them where it is cool, bright and wet with my Helis; warmer, dimmer and equally moist with my Neps, Byblis, Droseras, etc...; or under "hard" conditions with Brocchinia. What would be best? PS- Although I realize that this is a long shot, I thought it would be really cool to have a colony of assassin bugs on them. I know this has been done by researchers, but I don't think the local PetSmart has much in the way of a Capsid Bug aisle... so does anyone know of a source? Thanks a lot- -Jonathan Mitchell ################### From: Hayes7@aol.com Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1999 20:56:44 EST Subject: Re: Roridula questions Jonathan and list, > First, how do I get them to germinate? I have heard that they are tough > little suckers. Would scratching the seed coat, boiling, fire, gibb > acid, or other similar treatment help? Or is this kind of abuse > unnecesarry for Roridula? I can't say if all that is necessary..... I planted 6 seeds and got 2 to germinate without anything fancy at all. And the seed sat here for two years before I planted it..... I just put them in a tray of 50/50 peat sand, put a humidity dome on it and sat it in a west window. A friend's child thoughtfully pulled out the seed tags in the interim and I forgot about them for about 6-7 months.... Then I saw something coming up. In fact, and I am ashamed to admit it, I pulled one out thinking it was a weed before I realized what it was! (Oops.... to CP hell I go) > Second: when and if they do germinate, how do I care for them? Soil, > light, humidity, etc... basically I can put them where it is cool, > bright and wet with my Helis; warmer, dimmer and equally moist with my > Neps, Byblis, Droseras, etc...; or under "hard" conditions with > Brocchinia. What would be best? The remaining plant has been growing very well, again without any special care. It is sitting under fluorescent lights and enclosed in a humidity dome. That's it. I would say the conditions would be best described as moist, bright and warm. > PS- Although I realize that this is a long shot, I thought it would be > really cool to have a colony of assassin bugs on them. I know this has > been done by researchers, but I don't think the local PetSmart has much > in the way of a Capsid Bug aisle... so does anyone know of a source? If you find any, please advise so I can get some for mine :) Take care & keep on growing, Thomas K. Hayes DANGEROUS PLANTS www.tcscs.com/~thayes ################### From: Rick Walker Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1999 20:18:05 -0800 Subject: Reminder to send in your ICPS/CPN renewal It's nearly mid January and I've only received 250 CPN renewals. That means that about 750 ICPS members have not yet renewed. PLEASE, please renew your membership before the March issue. Early renewals are simple and easy. I only need to set a bit in the database and deposit your check. After the March issue, renewals require a backorder request which is a lot more work for Tom Johnson and I, and delays your issue by up to an extra month. Please, please send in your ICPS membership renewals before February 1st for unbroken CPN delivery. Avoid the backorder crush! Don't wait until April to notice that your March issue never arrived. By that time, you'll be lucky to get it in June! Thanks, -- Rick Walker ICPS membership coordinator Membership in the ICPS is $20 North America / $25 Overseas, and comes with 4 color issues of the Carnivorous Plant Newsletter and access to our seedbank. See http://www.carnivorousplants.org for subscription and renewal details ################### From: "PHILL MANN" Date: Tue, 12 Jan 1999 12:02:42 -0800 Subject: I'M BACK Greetings to all and a belated Happy New Year. I'm finally home and ready to start the year on a fresh note. If there is anyone whom I owe plants or are chasing any species in particular. I have nearly completed the update of the price list, so all those requests for the list should be ready by next week. I wish to thank very much all those who offered support during my recent medical crisis. It was truely appreciated and helped me through the hard times. Regards Phill Mann P.O. Box 193 Harvey 6220 Western Australia philmann@altu.net.au http://webnews.altu.net.au/~philmann SPECIALISING IN NEPENTHES ################### From: drury6@juno.com Date: Sun, 10 Jan 1999 15:37:38 -0600 Subject: D. Adalea How can I get my D. Adalae to bloom? It is tropical and doesn't require any dormancy,and it has been on the photoperiod that I have here at 33 degrees north lattitude since fall. Might it bloom in spring, without any help? I apologize, but this free email service, juno doesn't support file attachments, or HTML. ################### From: "Richard Jenkins" Date: Tue, 12 Jan 1999 01:03:26 PST Subject: Re: ICPS renewal Dear Rick and All, Although the ICPS is International it is quite difficult to renew membership from a non-US country. In the UK the only way I'm aware of is to go to the bank to get some dollars and to send cash which is not ideal. If I want to order back issues (which I do) this would involve sending a large amount of cash whcih is then a gamble. Additionally most UK banks won't dispense $5 notes which makes the $25 fee difficult. Did anything come of Barry Meyers-Rice investigation of credit card payment? Alternatively, would non-dollar personal cheques be suitable? Some US bookstores accept cheques in pounds sterling without hesitation. Richard ################### From: "Rogan Roth" Date: Tue, 12 Jan 1999 13:54:27 +0200 Subject: Roridula germination Hello Jonathan Mitchell et al. My experience and the experience of others who are doing research on the germination of "fynbos" species (Roridula spp. are plants from the fynbos regions of the southern and western Cape) is that they respond to treatment with "smoke water" - a smoke solution in water produced by the burning of various organic residues (fynbos species and grasses such as Themeda triandra, etc.). The Kirstenbosch botanic gardens produce a product called "Instant Smoke Plus Seed Primer" which is filter-paper circles saturated with a smoke solution and then dried. One circle soaked in 50ml water and the seeds soaked in the resultant solution for 24h does the trick. This treatment works for many plants including proteas, ericas, Anigozanthus, Leschenaultia, grasses, etc. I would certainly consider this as a treatment for many carnivorous plants and Roridula spp. as well. Instant Smoke Plus can be obtained from: D.Orriel - Seed Exporters, 45 Frape Avenue, Mt.Yokine, Perth, Western Australia 6060. TEL: (09) 344 2290 FAX: (09) 344 8982 Best regards Rogan Roth. (roth@botany.unp.ac.za) ################### From: "Mellard, David" Date: Tue, 12 Jan 1999 07:13:50 -0500 Subject: RE: ICPS renewal >Although the ICPS is International it is quite difficult to renew >membership from a non-US country. In the UK the only way I'm aware of is >to go to the bank to get some dollars and to send cash which is not > ideal. > I've never used it, but couldn't international money orders be used. In the US, international money orders are available at the US post office. I assume they are also available through banks. David ################### From: "Semanchuk, Phil J" Date: Tue, 12 Jan 1999 09:52:14 -0500 Subject: RE: www/catalog Pleurotus ostreatus > http://www.fungi.com/plugs/plugsa.html > Pleurotus ostreatus. You can buy it, there. > I have not done business with them, so I can't > say if they're 'good' or 'bad' with customers. I have made one purchase from them and I was satisfied. Philip URL du Jour: http://www.netlink.co.nz/~monpa/ ################### From: ricell@juno.com Date: Tue, 12 Jan 1999 10:00:38 -0700 Subject: Re: carnivorous plant stamps Don, On Thu, 7 Jan 1999 "Don Elkins/Sean Madison" writes: >The Scott# for the Laos series is 1237-1241 and for Triphyophyllum >is 769c Thanks for the information. You don't by chance know what the numbers are for some of the European numbering systems like Stanley Gibbons, Michel or Yvert & Tellier do you? Rich Ellis, Boulder, CO "ricell@juno.com" http://www.geocities.com/RainForest/Vines/8564/ ################### From: Johannes.Marabini@t-online.de (Johannes Marabini) Date: Tue, 12 Jan 1999 19:19:27 +0100 Subject: Pollen again! Hi all Nepenthesgrower, I have still (just now) pollen of Nepenthes lowii and Nepenthes spatulata available. Who is interessted? Johannes -- @email: johannes.marabini@t-online.de Homepage http://home.t-online.de/home/johannes.marabini/index.htm ################### From: CALIFCARN@aol.com Date: Tue, 12 Jan 1999 17:42:34 EST Subject: Re: Howdy from California Carnivores Greeting folks, Peter here at California Carnivores. Thanks for the nice comments about the tv show on H & G network. We haven't seen it ourselves as our cable doesn't carry it and the producer promised to send us a copy. We've received many phone calls and email messages about it. There will be another show on us on Rebecca's Garden this winter, but we don't yet know when. We had a lot of fun doing that one and it should be longer. (I don't know how long the H & G show was). I certainly can't help but suggest, to those of you who thought the show was brief, to let the cable network know you'd like a longer episode-- we here at California Carnivores certainly won't complain!!! Th-th-th-th-th-that's all folks! Peter ################### From: "Fabio D'Alessi" Date: Wed, 13 Jan 99 12:09:02 MET Subject: Re: ICPS renewal > Dear Rick and All, > > Although the ICPS is International it is quite difficult to renew > membership from a non-US country. In the UK the only way I'm aware of is > to go to the bank to get some dollars and to send cash which is not > ideal. If I want to order back issues (which I do) this would involve > sending a large amount of cash whcih is then a gamble. Additionally most > UK banks won't dispense $5 notes which makes the $25 fee difficult. > Did anything come of Barry Meyers-Rice investigation of credit card > payment? Alternatively, would non-dollar personal cheques be suitable? > Some US bookstores accept cheques in pounds sterling without hesitation. > > Richard I agree. Being italian, and quite busy with work and all, it has always been a problem for me. That's why I have always paid with months of delay... and often helped by a US friend who sends money for me in. A suggestion: couldn't the association find a person in Europe able to gather payments from EEC people? Now with the Euro it should be simpler. People from the EEC could pay in Euro to someone and then this person would make just one exchange operation and send just a US non-transferrable check to the US. Fabio ################### From: Rand Nicholson Date: Wed, 13 Jan 1999 07:41:35 -0400 Subject: Re: ICPS renewal >Dear Rick and All, > >Although the ICPS is International it is quite difficult to renew >membership from a non-US country. In the UK the only way I'm aware of is >to go to the bank to get some dollars and to send cash which is not >ideal. If I want to order back issues (which I do) this would involve >sending a large amount of cash whcih is then a gamble. Additionally most >UK banks won't dispense $5 notes which makes the $25 fee difficult. >Did anything come of Barry Meyers-Rice investigation of credit card >payment? Alternatively, would non-dollar personal cheques be suitable? >Some US bookstores accept cheques in pounds sterling without hesitation. > >Richard Hi Richard: I simply mark my cheques going out side Canada to be cashed in the funds of the receiving country. This is especially easy for the US. Cheques marked "In US Funds" get cashed at the going exchange rate an the date they go through. Alternately, an International Money Order can be bought for the exact amount in the currency of the receiving country. I have never had any problems with these methods in the US. I understand that some European and Asian banks make rediculous charges in cashing some types of currency vouchers, so best to check ahead with the receipient before sending. You could always try converting the fee to the Euro ... ;-) Kind Regards, Rand Rand Nicholson New Brunswick Maritime Canada Zone 5-ish (debatable) ################### From: Bob Lewis Date: Wed, 13 Jan 1999 15:20:33 +0000 (GMT) Subject: Change of address for Bob Lewis Hi, Due to a change in job, my old address of: b.lewis@bangor.ac.uk wil not work for much longer. Please use bob@nythfa.freeserve.co.uk from now on. Thanks. Bob ---------------------- Bob Lewis b.lewis@bangor.ac.uk bob@nythfa.freeserve.co.uk ################### From: "Richard Jenkins" Date: Wed, 13 Jan 1999 09:25:59 PST Subject: Re: ICPS renewal Dear David etc, >> In the UK the only way I'm aware of is to go to the bank to get >> some dollars and to send cash which is not ideal. > I've never used it, but couldn't international money orders be used. > In the > US, international money orders are available at the US post office. I > assume they are also available through banks. Unfortunately the banks over here charge about $15 for an international money order which is basically extortion. Richard ################### From: Rick Walker Date: Wed, 13 Jan 1999 12:31:05 -0800 Subject: Re:ICPS renewal > From: "Richard Jenkins" writes: > Although the ICPS is International it is quite difficult to renew > membership from a non-US country. In the UK the only way I'm aware of is > to go to the bank to get some dollars and to send cash which is not > ideal. If I want to order back issues (which I do) this would involve > sending a large amount of cash which is then a gamble. Simply get an international money order from a bank, or a postal money order. The ICPS now accepts multi-year subscription, so please consider renewing for 2 or 3 years at once. That will reduce your hassle by a factor of 2 or 3x and will also help reduce the number of envelopes and checks that I have to handle each year. I would encourage all members to consider doing this. Another advantage is that if subscription rates need to be raised, multi-year memberships will be honored and grandfathered in at the original rate. If you live next to a CP friend, or are a member of a club, then make arrangements to send a single money order for the entire club. Simply send a money order along with the bundle of membership forms. Alternatively, you can do some seed/plant trades with a U.S. friend and have them pay your membership for you. Barry is looking into credit cards and WEB payment, but such service is not yet available. We'll announce it widely as soon as it is in place. kind regards, -- Rick Walker > > > > ------------------------------ > > Topic No. 2 > > Date: Tue, 12 Jan 1999 13:54:27 +0200 > From: "Rogan Roth" > To: cp@opus.hpl.hp.com > Subject: Roridula germination > Message-ID: > > Hello Jonathan Mitchell et al. > > My experience and the experience of others who are doing research on > the germination of "fynbos" species (Roridula spp. are plants from the > fynbos regions of the southern and western Cape) is that they respond > to treatment with "smoke water" - a smoke solution in water produced > by the burning of various organic residues (fynbos species and grasses > such as Themeda triandra, etc.). > > The Kirstenbosch botanic gardens produce a product called "Instant > Smoke Plus Seed Primer" which is filter-paper circles saturated with a > smoke solution and then dried. One circle soaked in 50ml water and > the seeds soaked in the resultant solution for 24h does the trick. > This treatment works for many plants including proteas, ericas, > Anigozanthus, Leschenaultia, grasses, etc. > > I would certainly consider this as a treatment for many carnivorous > plants and Roridula spp. as well. > > Instant Smoke Plus can be obtained from: > > D.Orriel - Seed Exporters, 45 Frape Avenue, Mt.Yokine, Perth, Western > Australia 6060. > > TEL: (09) 344 2290 FAX: (09) 344 8982 > > Best regards > Rogan Roth. > > (roth@botany.unp.ac.za) > > > ------------------------------ > > Topic No. 3 > > Date: Tue, 12 Jan 1999 07:13:50 -0500 > From: "Mellard, David" > To: "'cp@opus.hpl.hp.com'" > Subject: RE: ICPS renewal > Message-ID: > > > >Although the ICPS is International it is quite difficult to renew > >membership from a non-US country. In the UK the only way I'm aware of is > >to go to the bank to get some dollars and to send cash which is not > > ideal. > > > I've never used it, but couldn't international money orders be used. In the > US, international money orders are available at the US post office. I > assume they are also available through banks. > > David > > ------------------------------ > > Topic No. 4 > > Date: Tue, 12 Jan 1999 09:52:14 -0500 > From: "Semanchuk, Phil J" > To: "'cp@opus.hpl.hp.com'" > Subject: RE: www/catalog Pleurotus ostreatus > Message-ID: <854F7121CC2BD211856000805FE6EBD2010BA057@US4N49> > > > http://www.fungi.com/plugs/plugsa.html > > Pleurotus ostreatus. You can buy it, there. > > I have not done business with them, so I can't > > say if they're 'good' or 'bad' with customers. > > I have made one purchase from them and I was satisfied. > > Philip > URL du Jour: http://www.netlink.co.nz/~monpa/ > > > > ------------------------------ > > Topic No. 5 > > Date: Tue, 12 Jan 1999 10:00:38 -0700 > From: ricell@juno.com > To: cp@opus.hpl.hp.com > Subject: Re: carnivorous plant stamps > Message-ID: <19990112.105939.-194413.1.Ricell@juno.com> > > Don, > > On Thu, 7 Jan 1999 "Don Elkins/Sean Madison" > writes: > >The Scott# for the Laos series is 1237-1241 and for Triphyophyllum > >is 769c > > Thanks for the information. You don't by chance know what the numbers > are for some of the European numbering systems like Stanley Gibbons, > Michel or Yvert & Tellier do you? > > Rich Ellis, Boulder, CO "ricell@juno.com" > http://www.geocities.com/RainForest/Vines/8564/ > > > ------------------------------ > > Topic No. 6 > > Date: Tue, 12 Jan 1999 19:19:27 +0100 > From: Johannes.Marabini@t-online.de (Johannes Marabini) > To: Multiple recipients of list > Subject: Pollen again! > Message-ID: <369B922F.8D793C52@t-online.de> > > Hi all Nepenthesgrower, > > I have still (just now) pollen of Nepenthes lowii and Nepenthes > spatulata available. Who is interessted? > > Johannes > -- > @email: johannes.marabini@t-online.de > Homepage http://home.t-online.de/home/johannes.marabini/index.htm > > > > ------------------------------ > > Topic No. 7 > > Date: Tue, 12 Jan 1999 17:42:34 EST > From: CALIFCARN@aol.com > To: cp@opus.hpl.hp.com > Subject: Re: Howdy from California Carnivores > Message-ID: <908fb457.369bcfda@aol.com> > > Greeting folks, Peter here at California Carnivores. > Thanks for the nice comments about the tv show on H & G network. We > haven't seen it ourselves as our cable doesn't carry it and the producer > promised to send us a copy. We've received many phone calls and email messages > about it. > There will be another show on us on Rebecca's Garden this winter, but > we don't yet know when. We had a lot of fun doing that one and it should be > longer. (I don't know how long the H & G show was). I certainly can't help but > suggest, to those of you who thought the show was brief, to let the cable > network know you'd like a longer episode-- we here at California Carnivores > certainly won't complain!!! > Th-th-th-th-th-that's all folks! Peter > > ------------------------------ > > End of CP Digest 1690 > ********************* ################### From: Oliver.Gluch@t-online.de (Oliver Gluch) Date: Wed, 13 Jan 1999 21:29:21 +0100 Subject: Re: ICPS renewal >>Although the ICPS is International it is quite difficult to renew >>membership from a non-US country. In the UK the only way I'm aware of is >>to go to the bank to get some dollars and to send cash which is not >> ideal. >> >I've never used it, but couldn't international money orders be used. In the >US, international money orders are available at the US post office. I >assume they are also available through banks. > >David Hi David, generally your idea is suitable, but the costs for an international money order for example here at a local German post office is much higher than the membership fee itself. I agree with Richard that the acceptance of payment by credit card will be very helpful and less expensive for non-US members. And there are a lot of non-US members I think. Oliver ---------------------------------------------------- Oliver Gluch Lindenallee 44 26122 Oldenburg Germany eMail: Oliver.Gluch@t-online.de Internet: http://home.t-online.de/home/oliver.gluch ----------------------------------------------------- ################### From: JWi5770869@aol.com Date: Wed, 13 Jan 1999 20:14:22 EST Subject: Payment for subs Dear All, >I've never used it, but couldn't international money orders be used. In the US, international money orders are available at the US post office. I assume they are also available through banks. I've tried to use it once in the UK (thru the Royal Bank of Scotland BTW, what wonderful service we have in our banks over here , I can't wait for the Euro to be standardised as common currency in Europe! )and was told that it "wasn't worth the time and trouble for such a small amount" . I've always tried to use cash in these circumstances. However would the society be able to take American Express Travellers cheques(Dollars) made out to the society? These can be obtained from any travel agents etc (in the UK). I believe that these (or their equivalent in $) can be obtained worldwide rather than the 'ubiquitous' Int. Mon. order. Please advise. John 'awaiting the white flowered Ping grandiflora' Wilden Southport Lancs. UK ################### From: "Lee Stradley" Date: Thu, 14 Jan 1999 05:37:26 -0500 Subject: New to the list Hi, I just started growing a few CP's in my greenhouse, and have become fascinated with them. I have an orchid business in NY State. I have been reading The Savage Garden and am glad I ordered it. I have a question. I recently bought 2 VF traps in those domes. One is a single plant 3+ACI-across, the other is a group of small plants that take up much of the 3+ACI- pot. The plants look very healthy, but I am wonder if I should put them in a cool spot in the greenhouse 40+-,and let them go dormant, or let them grow? And Why? Thanks, Lee Stradley [HTML file part2 deleted by listprocessor] ################### From: "Stefan P. Wolf" Date: Thu, 14 Jan 1999 12:42:56 +0100 Subject: GERMANY: collective ICPS membership fee transfer Hi CP'ers, =============================================================== in English -- following the list rules -- German translation is found at the end! === Text in Englisch gemaess Listenregeln -- deutsche Uebersetzung folgt am Ende! =============================================================== I will do a collective money transfer for German ICPS members this year as the trouble and cost for a single transfer scared me away from last year's membership. So I want to make a helpful step this year. I hope to reduce the per-person-charge below DM 5.00 but to have actual figures I need a binding word for participation by Friday next week (January 22) LATEST! I will then calculate the actual charge (which will be a maximum of DM 5.00 as I will eat the rest if only one person shows up :-) and tell you the very same day. You then have 10 days to pay to my account (February 01) and I will do a safe (but expensive) money transfer to the ICPS for the participating persons who transferred to me IN TIME. Fill out and quote back TO ME, NOT THE LIST!! ============================================= Yes, I want to participate in your collective ICPS membership fee transfer for _____ years. Take my word that I will transfer the amount stated by you (max. ICPS fee + DM 5) IN TIME (until February 1st). ============================================= ==== German translation of the above text follows === Ich mache dieses Jahr eine Sammelueberweisung fuer die ICPS-Bei- traege deutscher Mitglieder, nachdem mich selbst die Kosten fuer eine Einzelueberweisung im letztem Jahr von der Mitgliedschaft abgehalten haben und ich etwas beitragen moechte. Ich hoffe die Ueberweisungskosten fuer jeden einzelnen unter 5,- DM druecken zu koennen, aber um es genau berechnen zu koennen brauche ich bis zum Freitag naechster Woche (22. Januar) SPAETESTENS! Danach berechne ich die genauen Kosten fuer jeden (die maximal DM 5,- be- tragen werden, weil ich selbst dann den Rest uebernehme, wenn nur ein einziger mitmacht :-) und teile sie Euch noch am gleichen Tag mit. Dann muesst Ihr binnen 10 Tagen (01. Februar) auf mein Konto ueberweisen und ich mache eine sichere (aber teure) Ueberweisung an die ICPS fuer diejenigen, die RECHTZEITIG ueberwiesen haben. Ausfuellen und AN MICH, NICHT DIE LISTE schicken! ========================================= Ja, ich moechte an der Sammelueberweisung fuer den ICPS-Beitrag fuer __ Jahre teil- nehmen. Ich verspreche, den von Dir noch zu nennenden Betrag (max. Beitrag + DM 5) RECHTZEITIG (bis 01. Februar) zu ueberwei- sen. ========================================= Stefan Wolf. -- Dipl.-Inform. Stefan P. Wolf ................................................ mail : Zehlendorfer Str. 69, 24111 Kiel, GERMANY phone: (+49 431) 5973173 * fax: (+49 431) 697568 CP books >> http://www.angelfire.com/de/cpbooks/ ................................................ ################### From: "Carl Strohmenger (HSC)" Date: Thu, 14 Jan 1999 08:14:01 -0500 (EST) Subject: Re: New to the list On Thu, 14 Jan 1999, Lee Stradley wrote: > Hi, I just started growing a few CP's > I recently bought 2 VF traps in those domes. One > is a single plant 3inches across, the other is a group of small plants > that take up much of the 3inch pot. The plants look very healthy, > but I am wonder if I should put them in a cool spot in the > greenhouse 40+-,and let them go dormant, or let them grow? And Why? A temperature of 40 +/- deg. F is probably not low enough for effective dormancy in VFTs. If you do not have lower temperatures available, then let them grow, but get them out of the 3 inch pots. Re-pot into a 6 inch or one gallon pot with a 50:50 mix of sand:peat and let them stand in a shallow tray of water (1 inch deep). They should do well there for 5 years +/-. Dormancy seems to help the plants grow better in the next year, but I also live where temperatures do not fall low enough for effective dormancy, and I have success with VFTs here in central Florida. They will do OK, although i do not get the huge traps that some more northern growers report. My VFTs routinely get traps about 1.25 inches across, while I read that some people report traps about twice that size in northern areas. - Carl ################### From: "Mellard, David" Date: Thu, 14 Jan 1999 09:21:37 -0500 Subject: VFT >A temperature of 40 +/- deg. F is probably not low enough for effective >dormancy in VFTs. If you do not have lower temperatures available, then let >them grow, but get them out of the 3 inch pots. Re-pot into a 6 inch or one Reducing light levels also helps with inducing dormancy. David Atlanta ################### From: Barry Meyers-Rice Date: Thu, 14 Jan 1999 09:08:31 -0800 (PST) Subject: VISA card payments for the ICPS Hi all, Yes, in the future the ICPS will be able to accept VISA payments. I'm negotiating with a few different companies on payment methods. But in any event, this procedure will not be ready for this year's renewals. So please don't postpone renewing your membership ASAP! Barry ------------------------ Dr. Barry A. Meyers-Rice Carnivorous Plant Newsletter Conservation Coeditor barry@carnivorousplants.org http://www.carnivorousplants.org ################### From: Tom Massey Date: Thu, 14 Jan 1999 14:39:53 -0500 Subject: frog eating Sarrs. Well, the topic heading is part in jest (or is it part ingest!- HA), but I happened to be looking at my Sarrs. the other day and found two pitchers whose contents included a dead frog. In one case the pitcher (a large lueco.) had died and toppled over right where the frog was wedged. When the pitcher split the legs ended up dangling out of the broken half of the pitcher. After seeing this I started looking around and found a second plant, a rubra x purp. hybrid, that had a dead frog floating in the soup at the bottom of the pitcher. So far this hasn't damaged the pitcher, but I don't know how long the frog has been there, so who knows? As I and other people on the list have reported before, frogs often sit in Nep and Sarr. pitchers during the day, retreating out of reach down the pitcher tube when they are disturbed. Then at night, they emerge and feed on the moths that are attracted to the pitchers. For these two, the only thing I can guess is that they may be more the victims of cold weather than victims of overachieving plants. We have had one of our few cold spells over the last month, and while we never got below freezing, we did have one night down to the mid thirties. In both cases the frogs were nose up, and I suspect that they remained in the pitchers as temperatures dropped hoping to gain protection from the cold, only to be trapped when temps fell to far. I have no idea how sensitive frogs are to cold weather, but I think my victims may be cuban tree frogs rather than our native tree frogs, so perhaps that helps account. Anyway, call Moulder and Scully, I wanna be on TV! Tom in Fl. ################### From: "It's me again!!!" Date: Thu, 14 Jan 1999 22:05:28 +0100 Subject: Sarracenia Hello I have just recived Sarracenia the 14 January I got alata, leucephylla, flava and purpurea. Am I to put it in dark cold place or under a lamp. Do they have enough dormancy. Please tell me what to do. One more thing has anyone ever heard of fluorescent bulbs for plants that help grow faster and better? thank you kowal PS. Sarracenia leucephylla which I got was covered with fungus. I cut the pitchers and treated it with spray against fungus. Than put it into soil it has some fresh buds. Will it grow? [HTML file part2 deleted by listprocessor] ################### From: johnson Date: Fri, 15 Jan 1999 10:31:11 +1300 Subject: Delete from mail list.... January 15th, 1999 Dear Secretary, Many thanks for the copies of the Digest that you have been sending me. Unfortunately I really don't seem to have the time to read the "high volume" of information you send out. Please delete me from your mail list & I will just log onto your Web page for the odd update. Many thanks, Barbara Johnson ################### From: Angie Nichols Date: Thu, 14 Jan 1999 22:48:53 -0800 Subject: CC on HGTV For those of you who missed last weeks segment on California Carnivores on the Home and Garden channel, it will be repeated this Sunday at 5 EST. Angie Nichols, SC. ################### From: Tobias Isenberg Date: Fri, 15 Jan 1999 09:20:58 +0100 Subject: Re: VISA card payments for the ICPS Barry, > Yes, in the future the ICPS will be able to accept VISA payments. I'm > negotiating with a few different companies on payment methods. But in any > event, this procedure will not be ready for this year's renewals. So > please don't postpone renewing your membership ASAP! If you can manage to set up a way to pay with VISA, please also try to set up a way for Mastercard as well. It is at least as widespread as VISA an not everybody has both. But if you can accept both cards everybody outside of the US and Canada schould have a way to pay with credit card. Thanks! Tobias Isenberg (Tobias.Isenberg@gmx.de) ################### From: Johannes.Marabini@t-online.de (Johannes Marabini) Date: Fri, 15 Jan 1999 18:00:35 +0100 Subject: adress of John de Kanel Hi all, has anybody the e-mail adress of John de Kanel? Johannes -- @email: johannes.marabini@t-online.de Homepage http://home.t-online.de/home/johannes.marabini/index.htm ################### From: L235@aol.com Date: Fri, 15 Jan 1999 12:01:37 EST Subject: Re: VFT dormancy Beg to differ with those who have said that 40 degree (F) isn't low enough to induce dormancy in VFTs. In my experience it's fine, although, as David Mellard said, lower light levels do help a great deal. My plants are in the northeast-facing window of an unheated garage, with temps certainly no lower than 40 degrees. All are definitely dormant (summer petiole growth gone, tight winter rosettes, extremely slow or non-apparent growth). Even in full sun, I think that 40 degrees should be fine. Any other experiences out there? Jay Lechtman Ashburn, Virginia, USA "fine line between a hobby and a mental illness" ... Dave Barry ################### From: Paul Temple Date: Fri, 15 Jan 1999 22:20:32 +0000 Subject: American Express Travellers Cheques Well spotted John. I paid for tons of backissues and membership using American Express Travellers Cheques. They are THE international currency accepted anywhere except Cuba (I tried!). They are automatically insured )for free) if signed on receipt (at issueing bank or AMEX branch) and useable like cash in the US, accepted in all banks. Don't see why ICPS will have changed their practice of accepting them. Much cheaper than all other ways available in Europe, short of getting help from very friendly Germans willing to administrate on behalf of others (how impressive)! Chau Paul ################### From: Chris Teichreb Date: Fri, 15 Jan 1999 14:51:52 -0800 (PST) Subject: Warm weather temperate cp's Hello all, This latest thread about maintaining temperate cp's in areas such as Florida has me interested. I'm curious as to how growers in this region manage to keep Darlingtonia and some of the more northern Sarracenia alive? Do you find it is more a matter of day length rather than temps (as was suggested by others), or are you going to a lot of trouble (ie: not refrigerating your food to make room for the plants)? Just curious! Happy growing, Chris ********************************** Chris Teichreb Department of Biological Sciences Simon Fraser University Burnaby, B.C. cjteichr@sfu.ca ********************************** ################### From: Chris Teichreb Date: Fri, 15 Jan 1999 15:24:38 -0800 (PST) Subject: Drosophyllum germination Hi all, I received some Drosophyllum seed today and was wondering what techniques people use for germinating seed and for planting afterwards (if different from Peter D'Amato's or Adrian Slack's methods). If it matters (and it does seem to when it comes to this plant), I'm in the Pacific Northwest, ie: cool, wet winters generally above freezing, and warmish humid summers (although this past summer was like living back on the prairies). Actually, on that last point, if anyone from the Vancouver/Seattle and area grows Drosophyllum successfully, let me in on your secret :)! Thanks in advance. Happy growing, Chris ********************************** Chris Teichreb Department of Biological Sciences Simon Fraser University Burnaby, B.C. cjteichr@sfu.ca ********************************** ################### From: JWi5770869@aol.com Date: Fri, 15 Jan 1999 18:39:28 EST Subject: ICPS Dear All As posted in a previous digest, can American Express Dollar travellers cheques be used to pay for membership fees? (I post this to the list, rather than the ICPS so that others can benefit from the reply) John Wilden Southport Lancs. UK ################### From: "Carl Strohmenger (HSC)" Date: Fri, 15 Jan 1999 19:07:12 -0500 (EST) Subject: Re: Warm weather temperate cp's I haven't come across anyone in central Florida who has been able to keep Darlingtonia alive outside of a refrigerated box! Some growers tell about starting the seeds in cool conditions, and then allowing an ice block to melt and drip onto/into the soil around the plant, but eventually they miss a scheduled ice renewal and the plants are gone. I have never tried it myself. - Carl On Fri, 15 Jan 1999, Chris Teichreb wrote: > Hello all, > > This latest thread about maintaining temperate cp's in areas such > as Florida has me interested. I'm curious as to how growers in this > region manage to keep Darlingtonia and some of the more northern > Sarracenia alive? ################### From: relliott@senet.com.au (Russell Elliott) Date: Sat, 16 Jan 1999 16:20:46 +1030 Subject: change of email + last 3 weeks email LOST! Hi all, Sorry to post this here, but my email address had to be quickly changed. My old address was elliott@nexus.edu.au, and my new one is now relliott@senet.com.au I haven't been able to access my Nexus address for the last few weeks, so could anyone who has sent orders etc to my old Nexus address please resend the my new one. Also Tom Hayes and Laura Estes...Could you please drop me a line again about the trades we were organising? Good Growing, -Russell Elliott ################### From: "Mark Pogany" Date: Sat, 16 Jan 1999 03:12:19 -0500 Subject: VFT Dormancy Jay wrote in CP digest 1693: . My plants are in the northeast-facing window of an unheated garage, with temps certainly no lower than 40 degrees. All are definitely dormant (summer petiole growth gone, tight winter rosettes, extremely slow or non-apparent growth). Even in full sun, I think that 40 degrees should be fine. Any other experiences out there? My personal experience with Dionaea is similar but even warmer! For the past few years my plants have overwintered in the following conditions, being housed in eigther a cool house, cool basement, or cold garage: Temperatures- Days 45-55f Nights 40-50f Light- VERY diffused daylight, often quite dim due to extended overcast conditions. Moisture- top of the pot's medium BARELY damp, moreso an inch down. Vegetative activity- pretty much nil for the period from December thru early March, most fall produced petioles remain evergreen but no trap development. Older leaves go black and are trimmed off. The only other thing I do as a precaution is lightly misting the foliage and medium with a full strength Benomyl 50% WP spray once a month. I check the pots on a routine basis for any further necrotic old leaves and soil moisture. One other thing. I have been keeping an eye on the temperature profiles of the Wilmington NC area during winter. Many days, even in the dead of winter, are above 40f, nights averaging 35-45f. Even the NJ Pine Barrens seems to have semi-moderate winter conditions although it is located much further north. Both areas seem to benefit greatly from the Gulf Stream, which plays a part in modifying the weather near the East Coast. VERY RARELY do you see Wilmington, NC getting down to sub freezing conditions, at least for any extended period. Wish I could say the same here in Cleveland, Ohio where its been in the teens for the past three weeks. High temps predicted early next week of 40f have many people jumping for joy around here. We can use it to melt the 24 inches of snow and ice now on the ground! Mark Pogany Cleveland, Ohio markp@en.com ################### From: "TomsRareplants" Date: Sat, 16 Jan 1999 06:26:15 -0000 Subject: Drosera falconeri Hi I will have seed of this plant soon any one looking for this plant E mail me .. Thanks Laura Fritts frittsmb@msn.com ################### From: JWi5770869@aol.com Date: Sat, 16 Jan 1999 07:41:51 EST Subject: warm weather temperate cp's Dear All, >I haven't come across anyone in central Florida who has been able to keep Darlingtonia alive outside of a refrigerated box! Some growers tell about starting the seeds in cool conditions, and then allowing an ice block to melt and drip onto/into the soil around the plant, but eventually they miss a scheduled ice renewal and the plants are gone. I have never tried it myself. - Carl I know only too well what temps central Florida gets up to but have you tried growing these plants in unglazed clay pots? The only other way that I could think of trying would be to bury some large gauge aquarium tubing in your pots / boxes, connect the tubing to a small, submersible, aquarium pump and have the pump in a large, cooled sump (there are various ways to cool the sump), with the return end of the pipe returning to the sump. The pumps themselves are fairly inexpensive and are inexpensive to run. The only trouble with this idea would that it would only be 'cost effective' with a largish collection of Darlingtonias .. This may seem like a sledgehammer to crack a walnut, but it seems like the only way (as long as your electricity supplies are dependable!!) of keeping these plants long term ( the plants would still have to be watered fairly continuously BTW,this idea only provides the method of cooling them) . Please note that this is only an IDEA ,I've NOT tried it out, but then again there's no need for such fancy mechanics at our end of the world, the weather manages just fine all by itself ( and so do the Darlingtonia) !!!!!! John Wilden Southport Lancs. UK ################### From: "TED HADLEY" Date: Sat, 16 Jan 1999 16:14:44 -0800 Subject: Introduction I am new to CPs and totally fascinated by them. I, probably like most here, was given a VFT at about age 13, and promptly killed it. (I was in Arizona, and I kept it in a south-facing window. That probably would have been OK if I watered it regularly). A fellow mineralogist piqued my interest again about 8 years ago when at a talk he gave on the mineralogy of the Low Divide mining district, he showed slides of "pitcher plants". Now this was in NW California, and we all know there are no CPs there! :-) I almost made a trip up there, near Crescent City, CA, just to see the plants, and to hell with the minerals! :-) This past Christmas, my wife found a book she thought I would like, The Savage Garden. Well now I am hooked. And I went back to that mineralogist, borrowed his slide, and guess what? -- Darlingtonia californicus. Now I plan to send some money to Peter D'Amato for his Patio Collection. I am going to give this a serious try. Time will tell how I do. But first, I have some questions, which I will submit in a future email. I have read the CP archives from Rick Walker's website, but they stop at 1996. Are the 1997 and 1998 CP archives available anywhere? -------- Ted A. Hadley, Senior Mineralogist hadleyt@usa.net Mineralogical Investigation Services Sunnyvale, CA 94087 USA ################### From: "Charles Redding" Date: Sat, 16 Jan 1999 16:55:47 PST Subject: Wanted N Khasiana Hi I would like to know if anyone out there has an N Khasiana with 4-5 inch pitchers for sale or trade. Please e-mail me Thanks Charles Preferably someone in the USA TO PETER D'amato: What species of Nepenthes on the shirt? thanks!! ################### From: Dionaea@aol.com Date: Sat, 16 Jan 1999 20:46:28 EST Subject: Ants and N. bicalcarata (In National Geographic) Hi all: Just wanted to make everyone aware of an article in February '99 issue of National Geographic Magazine about "Ants and Plants." The article describes relationships between ants and certain plants and N. bicalcarata is prominently featured (including a photo of an upper pitcher as well as photos of ants inhabiting tendrils. Just an FYI. Christoph ################### From: Chris Frazier Date: Sun, 17 Jan 1999 05:47:53 -0700 Subject: CP Listserve is huge! Dear CP'ers, FYI. I just noticed that the CP listserve has over a thousand members for the first time (1019 as of Jan 17,1999). That's roughly a 20% increase in 1998 alone. Chris ----------------------------------------------------------- Chris Frazier Dept. of Biology, UNM Albuquerque, NM, USA 87131 (505) 277-0683 Fax: (505) 277-3781 Homepage: http://redtail.unm.edu/ ################### From: CCElliott@aol.com Date: Sun, 17 Jan 1999 11:03:09 EST Subject: new address please note new e-mail address elliott@capecod.net ################### From: cp@astilla.demon.co.uk (Andrew Bate) Date: Sun, 17 Jan 1999 18:10:14 GMT Subject: Windows CP application - Update Hi, I posted here a few months ago saying that I was planning on creating a Windows application handle a collection of plants (CP or otherwise). The project is now starting to take shape after several false starts and lack of spare time and in about 4-6 weeks time I should have something available for people to preview. This will NOT be the finished application but should give people an insight into what I am trying to achieve here. With Jan's permission I have managed to import basic taxonomy details from the online CP Database into my application so there is a good starting point for CP growers - if you don't want the application for CP usage then just delete all the data and type your own in... :-) So far, I have done the screens to handle the collection, genus/species details, stock prices, stock list, contact list (names addresses etc) and also prototyped creaton of HTML 'for sale' tables from within the application. Next on the list is the ordering module and integrating the printed/web based for sale list. The reason for this post is that I will be looking for people to have a look at what I have done so far in order to get feedback on what people like/dislike about it. More information can be found at the following URL:- http://www.astilla.demon.co.uk/epms If anyone is interested in acting as a tester for the application and following its development progress then please let me know. At the time I posted the original message I also found out that Paul Temple has also done something similar. I have no idea how this compares to what he has done as I haven't seen his application (didn't want to in case I subconsciously copied ideas). I don't know if what I am doing is of interest but all I can say is have a look and let me know any feedback! Regards, Andrew -- Andrew Bate | Email: andrew@astilla.demon.co.uk Worcester, UK | Web: http://www.astilla.demon.co.uk | ICQ: 11894304 ################### From: "Stefan Ploszak" Date: Sun, 17 Jan 1999 14:30:15 PST Subject: Re: VFT Dormancy >One other thing. I have been keeping an eye on the temperature >profiles of the Wilmington NC area during winter. Many days, even in >the dead of winter, are above 40f, nights averaging 35-45f. VERY >RARELY do you see Wilmington, NC getting down to sub freezing >conditions, at least for any extended period. It's a good idea to see how mother nature treats these plants. There is another factor that should be considered though. In nature the VFTs are usually burried in wire grass. In fact the only way to see these plants in the wild is to locate the flower scapes and pull the grass away as you reach the soil. It's my guess that the grass greatly protects the plants from the freezing temps and winds. In cultivation I've had potted VFTs easily survive brief periods in the mid 20s. As well, they don't have any problem with continuous temps in the 30s, even with the upper layer of soil frozen. I can't explain why, but the VFTs love a cool dormancy; in the spring they return stronger than ever. Stefan ################### From: "Stefan Ploszak" Date: Sun, 17 Jan 1999 14:40:28 PST Subject: Re: warm weather temperate CPs >The only other way that I could think of trying would be to bury >some large gauge aquarium tubing in your pots / boxes, connect the >tubing to a small, submersible, aquarium pump and have the pump in a >large, cooled sump (there are various ways to cool the sump), with >the return end of the pipe returning to the sump. For me I have a hard time finding an effective method to cool the water into the 50s when the outside temps are in the 80s. Especially a cost effective method. In nature the plants are found bathing in very cool(50s) spring water. Under those conditions the plants thrive and grow prolifically. >Please note that this is only an IDEA ,I've NOT tried it out I feel it could work well, but again, how could you cool the water so much? Stefan ################### From: "Adao Pereira" Date: Sun, 17 Jan 1999 23:39:32 -0000 Subject: Nepenthes humidity question Hello, all! I've got a problem concerning one of my Nepenthes: when it was young, I planted it in my terrarium. What I didn't know at that time is that they grow very much (I was a newbie to CPs), and now it doesn't fit in there anymore (in width and height). To solve this problem, I thought about one solution: I'd open a hole in the terrarium's lid and let the plant continue growing outside it. But there's a big difference in humidity in and out... How would the plant react? The base of the plant (the first 50 cm) are still in a very humid environment, but the rest would grow in room atmosphere (it is still humid, though). Are there any ideas about this? Or I'll have to cut the plant? BTW, I germinated some Darlingtonia seeds in 30 C and the seedlings (kept at the same temperature) are doing apparently well (and they're growing much faster than others kept at 18 C). I heard that these plants hate heat. Should I decrease the temperature? Thanks for your advices, Miguel ################### From: Peter Cole Date: Sun, 17 Jan 1999 23:55:59 +0800 Subject: Re: Introduction Hi Ted, welcome to the mailing list. Yes, you'll find they're very addictive things indeed! :) > I am new to CPs and totally fascinated by them. I, probably like most here, > was given a VFT at about age 13, and promptly killed it. (I was in Arizona, > and I kept it in a south-facing window. That probably would have been OK if > I watered it regularly). I guess we all started similarly - I have to confess I killed my first 5 or 6 VFTs quite quickly, mainly by underwatering and incessant poking and prodding (but I was only 7!) > have some questions, which I will submit in a future email. I have read the > CP archives from Rick Walker's website, but they stop at 1996. Are the 1997 > and 1998 CP archives available anywhere? I haven't got a full collection from the end of '96 (I did have, but had a few bad computer crashes,) but there's the last 6 months worth or so on my webpage - hit the "links" button and choose "local links". http://www.flytrap.demon.co.uk/ also a few other CP resources there you might like and links to other ` sites. Hope this helps, Peter mailto:carnivor@flytrap.demon.co.uk : http:www.flytrap.demon.co.uk/cchome.htm Cambrian Carnivores,17,Wimmerfield Cr.,SWANSEA,SA2 7BU, UK : tel 01792 205214 Carnivorous Plants,Seeds & Tissue Culture Kits - mailorder,export & wholesale ################### From: Danny Hammons Date: Sun, 17 Jan 1999 22:04:05 -0600 Subject: New CP Shipments at Lowe's Hello all, Over the weekend, I happened to be in Lowe's here in Arlington, Tx, and noticed that there was a shelf full of newly arrived CPs. I thought that it was a bit strange (being the middle of January.) I picked up a couple of Pings. Also, I'd like to inform everyone that I'll have my web page back up soon (it's been down since about last July.) El Nino + the horribly hot, dry summer here in N. Texas caused last year to be a fairly bad growing year. During the heat/drought, I lost a few sarracenias.....oddly enough, they were mostly the Tx native S. alatas. I hope to document the growing cycle this year on the web. I've gotten my own domain and much more server space than in the past so I'll be able to leave more up at one time. I'll post a message with the address when I get it completed. BTW, Tom, I've got lots of pictures of the plants you sent to Charlie. I'll post them on the page when it's ready. Danny Hammons (danny@hammosoft.com) Arlington, Tx ################### From: panther@bluep.com Date: Mon, 18 Jan 1999 22:05:44 +1100 Subject: Unsubscribe _,'| _.-''``-...___..--'; /, \'. _..-' , ,--...--''' < \ .`--''' ` /| Regards `-,;' ; ; ; panther@bluep.com __...--'' __...--_..' .;.' (,__....----''' (,..--'' Dr Antony Van Eeten ################### From: Laurent Legendre Date: Mon, 18 Jan 1999 12:19:23 +0100 Subject: Life in pitcher fluids Hi to all, I'm just back from a three weeks trip to New Caledonia. I made plenty of nice observations and took plenty of pictures on CP's. As I'm preparing to format all of my notes for CPN, I was wondering on whether someone could help me with something. There was a white bug living in the pitcher fluid of N. vieillardii. Could anyone help me identify the name of such species from photographs? Thanks, laurent Legendre ################### From: "NEIL ARMSTRONG" Date: Mon, 18 Jan 1999 16:24:40 -0000 Subject: Introduction Hi all! I've been growing CP's for about 9 years, and have two greenhouses. I started much like everyone else, buying, then killing numerous VFT on a windowsill. Then I progressed to killing Nepenthes :( ! I'm much better at it now though :) Growing, not killing ;) I grow most stuff, VFT Sarras, Drosera and an ok Heliamphora Nutans in a tank, N. facing window. BTW I stopped feeding mine years ago and it's fine, don't believe everything you read. Cheers, Neil ################### From: L235@aol.com Date: Mon, 18 Jan 1999 11:49:56 EST Subject: Re: VFT Dormancy (VFTs in Wire Grass) I must be in a contrary mood or something these days .... Repeatedly disagreeing with people on the list . Stefan Ploszak writes: > In nature the VFTs are usually burried in wire grass. In fact the only way to see > these plants in the wild is to locate the flower scapes and pull the grass > away as you reach the soil. It's my guess that the grass greatly > protects the plants from the freezing temps and winds. I've seen VFTs on several occasions in the wild (Pender and Brunswick counties, NC) In neither locale were VFTs growing in wire grass. In fact, in the former site, they were growing, quite exposed, on relatively barren sandy ridges along the edges of often water-filled depressions. These plants were quite easy to see (and photograph) even without the aid of their flower scapes (although in many cases they were flowering). I'm sure they are probably quite common in Wire Grass, I've just never seen them as such, and would therefore disagree with the statement that the "only" way to see them is when they're in flower. Jay Lechtman (jay@carnivorousplants.org) Ashburn, VA, USA ################### From: Barry Meyers-Rice Date: Mon, 18 Jan 1999 10:27:13 -0800 (PST) Subject: ICPS payments > If you can manage to set up a way to pay with VISA, please also try to > set up a way for Mastercard as well. It is at least as widespread as > VISA an not everybody has both. But if you can accept both cards > everybody outside of the US and Canada schould have a way to pay with > credit card. Dear Tobias, Yes, Mastercard will be supported along with VISA. They are pretty much interchangeable as far as this is concerned. American Express cards will not be supported. I don't know about Traveller's Checks. Barry ------------------------ Dr. Barry A. Meyers-Rice Carnivorous Plant Newsletter Conservation Coeditor barry@carnivorousplants.org http://www.carnivorousplants.org ################### From: Ide Laurent Date: Mon, 18 Jan 1999 20:37:45 +0100 Subject: Biggest drosera's Hi all A few days ago I've asked which are the most impressive drosera's in size. I'm thinking about D. gigantea, D. regia, D. indica, D. macrophylla... Who knows other giants ? Jan, maybe... ? Thanks for answering this time... Laurent ################### From: JWi5770869@aol.com Date: Mon, 18 Jan 1999 16:14:07 EST Subject: warm weather temperate Cps > For me I have a hard time finding an effective method to cool the water into the 50s when the outside temps are in the 80s. Especially a cost effective method. In nature the plants are found bathing in very cool(50s) spring water. Under those conditions the plants thrive and grow prolifically. >Please note that this is only an IDEA ,I've NOT tried it out I feel it could work well, but again, how could you cool the water so much? Stefan Stefan, Again only an idea, but if you could find an old fridge, bore holes in the sides (for the pipes...dont forget to insulate the pipes) and locate the sump in the fridge then this might work.The only trouble being , of course, that the apparatus designed to keep your Darlingtonias alive is actually dwarfing them!! (you could always use the fridge as a plinth to display them on ) Another alternative is to pay a visit to a good aquarium shop and have a talk with the owner. I'm sure that there are purpose built coolers for aquaria, the only trouble being that these will cost you an arm and a leg. Find a local engineering nut, who would be happy to take a fridge to bits and build you your own custom cooler. Would turning a fan on the plants in unglazed clay pots work? (bit like a 'swamp cooler'?) Only ideas but let me know if any work. John Wilden Southport Lancs. UK ################### From: "Kelley, Ian" Date: Mon, 18 Jan 1999 16:48:55 -0800 Subject: Repotting CP's Getting ready to repot plants - I want to put something in the bottom of the pot to improve drainage and prevent the medium from slowly dribbling out the holes in the bottom of the pot. I have lots of pots in which long-fibered sphagnum has been used, but it can smell a bit mulchy as it breaks down in the bottom of the pot. In the Home Depot today I saw a sack of horticultural charcoal sold for just this purpose. Has anyone used this? I like the idea that the filtering action of the charcoal will help to keep the medium "fresh", but am worried about effects on ph or unforseen considerations..... Thoughts? Thanks in advance, Ian San Francisco, CA ################### From: drury6@juno.com Date: Sun, 17 Jan 1999 10:49:33 -0600 Subject: moss and D. Aliciae Hello, Today I noticed some type of algae or moss growing at the base of my D. Aliciae on the soil, it is getting taller and will be on the plant soon. Will this be detrimental to the plant? If so, what can I do about it? ################### From: "Carl Strohmenger (HSC)" Date: Tue, 19 Jan 1999 06:12:46 -0500 (EST) Subject: Re: moss and D. Aliciae Moss growing around the base of a wetland plant can be a plus if it helps to maintain a high humidity around the plant and keeps the soil from drying out. It becomes a detriment when it grows so tall as to cover the plant and keep sunlight from getting to the leaves. So, it is a mixed bag. Keep an eye on it, and if it starts to adversely affect the D. aliciae, then you can start to control it. - Carl On Mon, 18 Jan 1999 drury6@juno.com wrote: > Hello, > Today I noticed some type of algae or moss growing at the base of my D. > Aliciae on the soil, it is getting taller and will be on the plant soon. > Will this be detrimental to the plant? If so, what can I do about it? > > ################### From: "Marc I. Burack" Date: Tue, 19 Jan 1999 07:59:34 -0500 Subject: Re: Repotting CP's At 05:03 PM 1/18/99 -0800, you wrote: >Getting ready to repot plants - I want to put something in the bottom of >the pot to improve drainage and prevent the medium from slowly dribbling >out the holes in the bottom of the pot. > >I have lots of pots in which long-fibered sphagnum has been used, but it >can smell a bit mulchy as it breaks down in the bottom of the pot. > >In the Home Depot today I saw a sack of horticultural charcoal sold for >just this purpose. Has anyone used this? I like the idea that the >filtering action of the charcoal will help to keep the medium "fresh", >but am worried about effects on ph or unforseen considerations..... > >Thoughts? > >Thanks in advance, > >Ian >San Francisco, CA Dear Ian, I will give this one a go. I have been very successful using "rockwook" at the bottoms of my pots to avoid the gradual loss of soil. Rockwool in any format can be used. (Rockwool is "rock" that has been heated to about a million degrees :-) and is then spun into fibers almost like cotton candy. It has the feel and consistency of house insulation. It can usually only be acquired from shops that specialize in hydroponics since it is used heavily with that kind of growing. The advantages are: it is completely sterile, it allows water to flow through easily and it CANNOT break down since it is inorganic (it is rock). Also it is soft, fluffy, pliable and allows an enormous amount of oxygen to penetrate even when it is wet. The disadvantages are: This stuff is EXPENSIVE!!! If you give it a shot I think you will be pleased. Rockwool has many uses (rooting Nepenthes--this is by far the bast way!) but the fact that it can never break down and is sterile is by far its best attributes in your situation. Marc I. Burack marcb@companionfinancial.com ################### From: "Mellard, David" Date: Tue, 19 Jan 1999 08:02:58 -0500 Subject: RE: Repotting CP's >Getting ready to repot plants - I want to put something in the bottom of >the pot to improve drainage and prevent the medium from slowly dribbling >out the holes in the bottom of the pot. Hi Ian, For a few terrestrial orchids that like to grow their tubers deep into the pot, I use screen from a local home store, cutting a circle (or square) to fit the bottom and cover the holes. The only care you have to take for cp's is to make sure that the screen doesn't lift the media above the water level in the tray. David Atlanta ################### From: "Mellard, David" Date: Tue, 19 Jan 1999 08:58:21 -0500 Subject: RE: Nepenthes humidity question > To solve this problem, I thought about one >solution: I'd open a hole in the terrarium's lid and let the plant continue >growing outside it. But there's a big difference in humidity in and out... >How would the plant react? I can't believe I'm answering a Nepenthes question (hint, hint!) The leaves that grow outside your terrarium are very likely not to produce traps. I wanted to wait a few more months before reporting the following observations about two Nepenthes in my house that are now growing outside their terrarium, but this question fits right in my observations so far. One Nepenthes has a leaf and tendril completely outside the terrarium and no trap has formed. The other Nepenthes has about 25% of one leaf still in the terrarium with the remaining leave outside but the tendril has dipped back into the terrarium. The tip of the tendril is starting to enlarge and is on its way to forming a trap. Another leaf is completely outside the terrarium but its tip has dipped back into the terrarium. It hasn't done anything yet. David Atlanta ################### From: "Mellard, David" Date: Tue, 19 Jan 1999 09:13:50 -0500 Subject: RE: Drosophyllum germination >I received some Drosophyllum seed today and was wondering what >techniques people use for germinating seed and for planting afterwards Hi Chris, I use a mix of 10 - 20 percent peat with the remaining ingredients equal parts (roughly) sand and perlite. Seeds are placed on top of the mix and the pot is placed in a tray of water. As each seed germinates and form a seedling (maybe 0.5 to 1 inch), I repot the seedling into the same mix and start watering from above when the mix gets almost completely dry. The seeds and plants grow under fluorescent lights all year long. I now have 2-year-old Drosophyllums and numerous seedlings. It's best to have only one plant per pot as any extra plants seem to slowly die off. As you know, Drosophyllums don't like overwatering and are actually very forgiving when it comes to underwatering. I've found wilted plants occasionally having misjudged when the mix's dampness. They come back upon watering. I plan to put a few outside this spring in an area that gets some direct sun but no rain and may try one outside that gets rain. David Atlanta ################### From: takaicp@sh0.po.iijnet.or.jp Date: Tue, 19 Jan 1999 23:46:44 +0900 (JST) Subject: epiphytic Utricularia Konnichiwa! First, To my friends: I am very very sorry for long long silence(more than 12months). I have been still very busy for tomato production. I will contact you. To epiphytic Utricularia enthusiasts who specialize in vitro propagation for them: I need any chips about your experiences in propagateing them in vitro. I am trying to introduce a few species( j&q ) into sterile condition from the seed or the green seed. I will greatly appreciate your suggestions. I wonder whether U.camp. is the self-compatibility. Does it need the artificial pollination? Please contact me directly. Kind regards Isao ################### From: SCHLAUER@chemie.uni-wuerzburg.de Date: Tue, 19 Jan 1999 17:19:13 Subject: Re: Biggest drosera's Dear Laurent, > A few days ago I've asked which are the most impressive drosera's in > size. I'm thinking about D. gigantea, D. regia, D. indica, D. > macrophylla... Who knows other giants ? Jan, maybe... ? It of course depends on growing conditions. Certainly the plants can be cultivated in such a manner that the interest of visitors focuses on _D. spatulata_ rather than on _D. regia_. But if grown at its best, the latter will certainly make a significant crowd overlook (or at least forget for a short time) the rest of the genus. _D. gigantea_ has (for me, at least) never been nearly as impressive as its name. There are species with larger leaves than _D. macrophylla_ (e.g. _D. regia_) and with larger flowers than _D. macrantha_. In the latter respect some forms of _D. cistiflora_ and _D. pauciflora_ can be quite a show. _D. indica_ is a nice unusual plant but some spectators may find it somewhat untidy-looking. If you spend some time with _Drosera_, you will learn to appreciate the thrills of even the tiny and common species. I am at a loss to tell which is the most spectacular or even only my favourite species. I like them all, and I would not want to miss (in terms of extinction; I do not cultivate _Drosera_) any of them. Kind regards Jan ################### From: SCHLAUER@chemie.uni-wuerzburg.de Date: Tue, 19 Jan 1999 17:50:23 Subject: Re: epiphytic Utricularia Dear Isao-San, Konnichiwa! > I need any chips about your experiences in propagateing them in vitro. > I am trying to introduce a few species( j&q ) into sterile condition > from the seed or the green seed. > I will greatly appreciate your suggestions. I have only limited experience with the truly epiphytic species. _U. alpina_ germinated half a year after I had sown it. I managed to grow the seedlings into small plants with leaves approximately 3 cm long and 1 cm wide. Propagation is easy by dividing the clumps that inevitably form from the irregular network of stolons. I do not know if any of the plants from my cultures survived somewhere but I have eventually lost them to fungus infection. _U. humboldtii_ germinated immediately (you could actually see the plant emerge from the seed coat a few hours after sowing). As probably most of the readers on this list know (I write this for those who did not know yet), _U. humboldtii_ has a green embryo in the transparent testa, so it is in fact "germinated" already before it is sown. Old seeds with brown embryos are generally dead. Some plants of this species should still be in cultivation (in vitro) at several places. Sterilization was performed in the usual way with hypochlorite bleach until the (ripe) seeds became appreciably paler or even purely white (depending on the species). > I wonder whether U.camp. is the self- compatibility. Does it need > the artificial pollination? Fertility of seeds of Lentibulariaceae is a mysterious thing. Perfect- looking seeds may be entirely disappointing, while lousy old grains may germinate after a few weeks or even within days (I once sowed five years old seeds from a herbarium specimen of _P. vulgaris_; a significant proportion of which germinated after two weeks). Some species take months or even years to germinate. There are several species I have never been successful with, while others grew them without problems. One year seeds may be sterile even after artificial pollination, the following year seeds from untreated flowers may be perfect (cf. the anecdote under _U. alpina_ in P. Taylor's monograph). The only rule I know is that there is no rule (but mind the exceptions!). > Please contact me directly. The small talk above may be of interest for a few others on this list, so I posted it here. The rest of the listeners are (like always) free to make full use of their delete keys. Kind regards Jan ################### From: Chris Teichreb Date: Tue, 19 Jan 1999 09:44:55 -0800 (PST) Subject: Re: moss and D. Aliciae Hello, > Hello, > Today I noticed some type of algae or moss growing at the base of my D. > Aliciae on the soil, it is getting taller and will be on the plant soon. > Will this be detrimental to the plant? If so, what can I do about it? As someone else mentioned, it's fine unless it starts shading out the plant. If that happens, just trim it back. Moss always grows in most cp pots and I take it as a sign that everything is all right! Happy growing, Chris ********************************** Chris Teichreb Department of Biological Sciences Simon Fraser University Burnaby, B.C. cjteichr@sfu.ca ********************************** ################### From: Phil Wilson Date: Tue, 19 Jan 1999 18:53:38 +0000 Subject: Re: Biggest drosera's In message , Ide Laurent writes >Hi all > >A few days ago I've asked which are the most impressive drosera's in size. I'm >thinking about D. gigantea, D. regia, D. indica, D. macrophylla... Who knows >other giants ? Jan, maybe... ? > Depends how you measure them. For sheer volume of trapping area you have to go some to beat the large D. dichotoma and D. binata forms. In terms of height the prize probably goes to some of the upright climbing tuberous Drosera. I have had species such as D. macrantha or D. pallida get to at least 1.5 Meters height, perhaps more. Regards, Phil Wilson Email: cp@pwilson.demon.co.uk Web Site: www.pwilson.demon.co.uk ################### From: ricell@juno.com Date: Mon, 18 Jan 1999 19:21:17 -0700 Subject: Re: Repotting CP's On Mon, 18 Jan 1999 "Kelley, Ian" writes: >In the Home Depot today I saw a sack of horticultural charcoal sold >for just this purpose. Has anyone used this? I like the idea that the >filtering action of the charcoal will help to keep the medium "fresh", >but am worried about effects on ph or unforseen considerations..... For what it is worth, I routinely use horticultural charcoal in my Nepenthes potting mix. It does not readily break down and I beleive it is neutral in pH though I have never tested it. I think it could work well for this application. Rich Ellis, Boulder, CO "ricell@juno.com" http://www.geocities.com/RainForest/Vines/8564/ ################### From: CALIFCARN@aol.com Date: Tue, 19 Jan 1999 16:06:04 EST Subject: Re: T shirts and Hillary Greeting folks, Peter here at California Carnivores: Someone, I think Charles, asked what the nepenthes was on our t-shirt. It isn't any species or hybrid; it is a generic plant done by the artist Ken Holley after he visited our nursery. While the basic plant design on each shirt is the same, since they are hand painted the coloration can vary from shirt to shirt. Species or not, they are rather beautiful. There's a photo of it on our website: californiacarnivores.com. I'm surprised no one on the listserver mention First Lady Hillary Clinton's admiration of the Nepenthes at the Conservatory of Flowers in Golden Gate Park. This was reported by a San Francisco newspaper some time before Christmas. The Conservatory was severely damaged in the 1994 windstorm, which caused millions of dollars in damage to the national landmark, which has been closed to the public since then, due to lack of funds to repair it. Hillary visited to drum up support. The newspaper mentioned that the first plants she approached were the fabulous Nepenthes that George (the curator) grows there. She was awed by them, and seemed to want to discuss nothing else. The paper didn't mention if she inquired as to whether they would eat any Republicans.... Th-th-th-th-th-that's all, folks! Peter ################### From: "Mellard, David" Date: Tue, 19 Jan 1999 12:01:06 -0500 Subject: drosera morphology I'm growing several Drosera montana v tomentosa (gawd, I hope I spelled it right) via Fernando (thanks) and noticed that the flower stalk has dew on the flower bracts and for a short distance just below the flowers. No dew is present on the lower portion of the stalk. The fascinating part of this is that the dew on the flower bracts has managed to catch some gnats. Hopefully the same would not happen to the insect pollinator of choice in its native Brazil. Would anyone like to offer an evolutionary explanation for why this would evolve. A nearby Drosera brevifolia, which produces dew on the entire flower stalk, has not caught any insects on the flower stalk. Another observations for Drosera gramunifolia "spiralis" (again thanks to Fernando) is that the tip of blade-like leaf curls over when it catches an insect. I tried to trigger this activity with a broom straw the other day and after several minutes grew tired of waiting for the leaf to curl. When I was checking the leaves the following day, though, it was curled -- around nothing. As Jan pointed out, Drosera are quite fascinating; and, I'm having a great deal of fun just wondering around their pots with my eyes, watching, waiting, seeing, and learning. I'm finding out they have many intriguing, little quirks, just like people David Atlanta ################### From: Chris Teichreb Date: Tue, 19 Jan 1999 14:50:23 -0800 (PST) Subject: Darlingtonia dormancy Hi all, Noticed the other day that a local nursery had a pot of Darlingtonia for sale (tc'd plants from Gubler's Orchids). It looks really healthy but, of course, it's not supposed to be growing at this time of the year. Since it's a tc'd plant and since it just recently appeared in the nursery, I assume it was deflasked only a couple of months ago. Anyways, my question is would it survive if it was placed in a cool windowsill with low light levels (ie: north) and allowed to go dormant until spring, or is it too late for this plant? Obviously my spring fever is acting up early this year :)! Happy growing, Chris ********************************** Chris Teichreb Department of Biological Sciences Simon Fraser University Burnaby, B.C. cjteichr@sfu.ca ********************************** ################### From: "Kelley, Ian" Date: Tue, 19 Jan 1999 15:33:35 -0800 Subject: Accursed plant predators! I put my windowsill plants outdoors for the winter, on my fire escape in my urban neighborhood. Recently, something has been coming and tearing up the pitchers pretty good. The Dioneaea and Droseraea (sp?) are all ok, but the Sarrs. are pretty torn up. I'm not real concerned, as most of the leaves are brown and at any rate they will be safely inside during the growing season. Mostly, my curiosity is piqued. It does not seem like the "attacker" was intent on getting at the contents of the pitchers, as much as the pitchers themselves. The tall, splindly ones seemed hardest hit. Given the locale, I figure the short list of suspects to be : a cat a bird a mouse a racoon in descending order of neighborhood sightings. Any cat, bird owners with relevant insight? Not a real critical growth issue (thanks, BTW, for the replies on the horticultural charcoal thread) but a curiosity nonetheless. Thoughts? Thanks in advance, Ian San Francisco, CA ################### From: VFTMaxwell@aol.com Date: Tue, 19 Jan 1999 21:03:54 EST Subject: What is this? In a message dated 1/19/99 2:37:17 AM Eastern Standard Time, cp@opus.hpl.hp.com writes: > '| _.-''``-...___..--'; > /, \'. _..-' , ,--...--''' > < \ .`--''' ` /| > Regards `-,;' ; ; ; > panther@bluep.com __...--'' __...--_..' .;.' > (,__....----''' (,..--'' ??? ################### From: aquilla2@juno.com Date: Tue, 19 Jan 1999 19:17:58 -0800 Subject: Re: Potting Re-potting CPs Kelly, I use a porous type landscape weed block fabric to line my pots. I just cut a circle larger than the pot and push my sand peat medium into the pot. Then transplant. Trim, with scissors, any fabric that sticks over the top The material will not break down, and makes removing everything easy, when you transplant the next time, as you can lift everything out of the pot. You will not lose any mediunm out of the bottom of your pot. I have also used activated charcoal (granular) on occasion mixed with the medium and havn't noticed any pros or cons. Remember, that the carbon is only as good as it's capacity to absorb impurities or what ever. then it is just another inert ingrediant in your medium. Hope that this helps. Michael A Sankovich >Topic No. 8 > >Date: Mon, 18 Jan 1999 16:48:55 -0800 >From: "Kelley, Ian" >To: "'cp@opus.hpl.hp.com'" >Subject: Repotting CP's >Message-ID: > >Getting ready to repot plants - I want to put something in the bottom >of >the pot to improve drainage and prevent the medium from slowly >dribbling >out the holes in the bottom of the pot. > >I have lots of pots in which long-fibered sphagnum has been used, but >it >can smell a bit mulchy as it breaks down in the bottom of the pot. > >In the Home Depot today I saw a sack of horticultural charcoal sold >for >just this purpose. Has anyone used this? I like the idea that the >filtering action of the charcoal will help to keep the medium >"fresh", >but am worried about effects on ph or unforseen considerations..... > >Thoughts? > >Thanks in advance, > >Ian >San Francisco, CA > >------------------------------ ___________________________________________________________________ You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail. Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com/getjuno.html or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866] ################### From: Laurent Legendre Date: Wed, 20 Jan 1999 12:58:24 +0100 Subject: trip to Madagascar Hi all, I have a friend who's preparing a trip to Madagascar. He'll be working over there but will have a lot of free time to travel...and hunt for CP's. Would anyone have any site information for him? Thanks Laurent Legendre ################### From: Laurent Legendre Date: Wed, 20 Jan 1999 13:24:37 +0100 Subject: Use of CP's in medicine Dear list, If I recall well, someone was asking early in december about the use of CP's as medications. Here are some information I can share. Doctors in France do prescribe Drosera pills to get rid of a cough after a bad cold. These pills are used in homeopathy, some kind of soft, herbal medicine. I've also heard that the french king Louis XIV (the sun king) used to dring teas made out of Drosera rotundifolia (the sun plant!) to treat his throat and have a more powerful voice. To my surprise, I learned over christmas that doctors in Noumea (New Caledonia) suggest their patients to eat Nepenthes pills to fight stress. These small white pills are also produced as homeopathy treatment by a laboratory called Boiron in France. When I told people over there that Nepenthes plants are actually carnivorous, they did not seem to look like less stressed to me. take care, laurent Legendre ################### From: Rand Nicholson Date: Wed, 20 Jan 1999 08:52:32 -0400 Subject: Re: Freezing Apartment CPs Hi List: Turning into the end of January and noting there are apartment growers with CP dormancy concerns on the List, I thought I would just send a few notes of my own experiences with a few plants. I grow my CPs in a low humidity apartment (in winter, outdoors in summer) in Maritime Canada and, except for soil mixes, do not take too many extra pains in my CP culture. No lights or terrariums, sometimes I will wrap up a Nepenthes in plastic to raise the humidity for a spell. Most of my CPs (except my Neps) are appearing nicely dormant, now, where they are in a cold window that has a louvre to control the air flow to the outside. My zone falls within the - 28 C temps in winter, but we have had much lower. Several pots, including Darlingtonia, have been frozen solid overnight several times with no ill effects. The south-west window facing pitchers of my S. purp. were all frozen solid last week with the ice rising out of the fat pitchers (I keep the pitchers filled through its dormancy) and the container full of water it sits in, a block of ice. It took a whole day for the thing to thaw out, but the pitchers (and their ice water) thawed in an hour or so. The thing seems to actually enjoy that, but then it is a Canadian pitcher plant, after all and probably grows little grey wool socks on its roots in the fall. The redoubtable D. capensis, through my laxness, received a good bit of freezing itself. The pot didn't freeze solid but the moss on top was rock hard to over a centimeter down as well as one side of the pot. The plant looked like hell, but actually came back a bit before throwing its leaves and croaking to the soil line. Then it immediately put out a stem shoot from just below the sphagnum, which has now six leaves, three mature and is growing fast. I have about five cm of dead stem to cut off and then you would never know where the original plant had been. I actually thought I had killed it this time, but then, this would be about the fifth time I have thought that. A pot of VFTs is generally losing a few leaves, looking ratty and normal for this time of year. This summer the rhizomes managed to migrate to one half of the pot leaving the other side bare, so they will have to be repotted and redistributed when they start up in the spring. This will probably mean extra VFTs for my summer beer cooler bog garden on the deck as I have never been quite able to repot VFT rhizomes without having a few "scales" or pieces volunteer to come away during the process. Then again, some of these things just get too big for community pot and need to be divided anyway. The Nep. alatas, which seem to take a rest here during the dark days, have been reacting to the (not much) longer daylight with more pitchers. I was hoping to keep them resting, because the pitchers are still lower ones and there is not enough light for that wonderful colouration that they get, except for the mottling on the neck and lids. All in all I have three N. alata growing in the same big pot. One is from the top of the old stem of the original plant after it had been cut-back and two others are cuttings I took at the same time I cut the plant back. All three are producing pitchers of various sizes, the old plant with the biggest at about 14 cm. I have another earlier cutting that has sulked for almost a year growing in an unprotected pot in terrible conditions that has started producing pitchers, also. These are about 5-6 cm and the tops (lids and necks) dessicate in the low humidity after about six weeks, but this is an experiment to see just what N. alata can take as far as nasty goes. I also have two Cephalotus in the big Nep pot to overwinter. I found that this is an easier method than fighting the mold (mildew) they often get when potted by themselves under my conditions. I don't know why they don't get the mold in with the neps, but if it works ... In the spring, I'll lift them and set them in various shady spots outdoors to try and get some size on them. For some reason, they never get mold in the spring and summer. I got the two plants by division. I took a sterilized pair of sissors and cut the rhizome of the mother plant about two cms back from the growing point without unpotting it. The second plant appeared about six weeks later at the cut. This plant appears to like a pot much bigger than the plant itself. Having seen the long rhizome during a repotting, I think I can see one reason why. No sign of bloom buds forming on any of the plants, but it is early days yet and I don't want to disturb the plants at this time by rooting around their crowns which are mostly covered by live dormant sphagnum moss. The moss freezes quite well, also and I believe this helps to keep it healthy and moist and of benefit to the plants' crowns and roots in helping to prevent rot and dessication. Kind Regards, Rand Rand Nicholson New Brunswick The Great White ( January thaw Zone 5-ish, maybe) ################### From: "Marc I. Burack" Date: Wed, 20 Jan 1999 08:04:32 -0500 Subject: Re: Repotting CP's At 11:59 AM 1/19/99 -0800, you wrote: > > >On Mon, 18 Jan 1999 "Kelley, Ian" writes: >>In the Home Depot today I saw a sack of horticultural charcoal sold >>for just this purpose. Has anyone used this? I like the idea that the >>filtering action of the charcoal will help to keep the medium "fresh", >>but am worried about effects on ph or unforseen considerations..... > >For what it is worth, I routinely use horticultural charcoal in my >Nepenthes potting mix. It does not readily break down and I beleive it >is neutral in pH though I have never tested it. I think it could work >well for this application. > >Rich Ellis, Boulder, CO "ricell@juno.com" Horticultural charcoal is certainly not neutral. Marc I. Burack marcb@companionfinancial.com ################### From: "Susan Farrington" Date: Wed, 20 Jan 1999 07:33:52 +0000 Subject: VFT dormancy > Beg to differ with those who have said that 40 degree (F) isn't low > enough to induce dormancy in VFTs. In my experience it's fine, > although, as David Mellard said, lower light levels do help a great > deal. My plants are in the northeast-facing window of an unheated > garage, with temps certainly no lower than 40 degrees. All are > definitely dormant (summer petiole growth gone, tight winter rosettes, > extremely slow or non-apparent growth). Even in full sun, I think > that 40 degrees should be fine. My observations agree with Jay's... I have had VFT's in three locations for three years now: (1) in my cool greenhouse at home that is kept about 40 to 45 F (not less than 40). They receive a fair bit of sun, and on sunny days the daytime temp can go up into the high 70's. (2) in the conservatory here at the Missouri Botanical Garden. Night temperature is 42. Light level IS pretty low in winter: they receive a little direct sun, though, and sunny days can warm into the high 60's. (3) in our back-up greenhouse area. Unheated alcove, can go down to 28 or 30 degrees. Low light levels (virtually no direct sun). Plants in all three locations have all gone dormant, and all come out of dormancy and flower and grow about equally well in spring and summer. Susan Farrington Missouri Botanical Garden ################### From: "Susan Farrington" Date: Wed, 20 Jan 1999 07:35:37 +0000 Subject: St. Louis Carnivorous Plant Society Our January 7 meeting got cancelled due to questionable weather (snow and ice falling that day), so... we've rescheduled for February 11. We'll be showing slides of cp's in their native habitats, and will discuss basic care of cp's. All are welcome, beginners or experienced growers alike. For more info, please contact me. Susan Farrington Missouri Botanical Garden ################### From: Angie Nichols Date: Wed, 20 Jan 1999 10:08:25 -0800 Subject: D. schizandra Has anyone used any kind of insecticide on D. schizandra without frying the plant? My one plant looks like it may have spider mites. The leaves are alamost transparent and the older leaves have holes in them. I have been spraying them with a forceful jet of water to remove any bugs but this of course just relocates them. I wonder if the flea collar method would work? Angie Nichols, SC ################### From: "Mellard, David" Date: Wed, 20 Jan 1999 09:19:31 -0500 Subject: the tale of the floating S. psittacina Hi Rand, your post of freezing cp's prompted me to talk about the floating psittacina. Many of you will remember that last year, I overwintered a couple of S. psittacina outside submerged in water. They did fine sitting at the bottom of a plastic bucket where the water at the top froze many times over the winter. This year, they became floating S. psittacina and spent the later part of summer, fall, and winter floating in water. They love it. What's amazing to me is that now when it freezes, they are trapped in a layer of ice and the other week when it went down into the teens (F), they were completely surrounded by frozen ice. Anything that freezes in Atlanta usually thaws the next day (or 2 at the most) and the floating psittacinas are doing great. I plan to leave them there permanently to see how they fare and how large they will get. David Atlanta ################### From: SCHLAUER@chemie.uni-wuerzburg.de Date: Wed, 20 Jan 1999 15:54:59 Subject: Re: trip to Madagascar Dear Laurent, > I have a friend who's preparing a trip to Madagascar. He'll be working over > there but will have a lot of free time to travel...and hunt for CP's. Would > anyone have any site information for him? Thanks The information I posted several months ago here is still valid. In essence, it is actually quite simple. There is only one spot on the whole island that is really worth a cp expedition. Everything else is merely tourism. Your friend should go (non-stop, directly from the airport, without looking back or asking around) to the Marojejy Massif E summit, W Upper Manantenina, and look for the endemic, poorly known, not-yet-cultivated (AFAIK), apparently very local, possibly endangered, _Drosera humbertii_, take tons of photos, and send them my way. ;-) If he has some spare time left, he could also visit _Nepenthes masoalensis_, but this species is known much better than the former. If he is interested in _N. madagascariensis_ or _D. madagascariensis_, he should buy one from his supermarket around the corner rather than to disturb the plants in Madagascar. On his trips, your friend should also look for _Utricularia_ and take good close-ups. If he can obtain a permit (_Nepenthes_ is CITES App. II listed!) and if the plants will not be disturbed significantly, he should collect herbarium material (preserved in alcohol if possible) for further study and seeds for cultivation purposes. Kind regards Jan ################### From: "Stefan P. Wolf" Date: Wed, 20 Jan 1999 16:20:37 +0100 Subject: Th. Carow CP calendar - new US source!!! (ad) [ Summary: This is an advertising for the CP calendar by Thomas Carow. I was asked to post a contact address of a volunteer for a US collective order of this calendar. If you're not interested please excuse this posting - it will be the last one of this kind!] Dear CPers! In my posting ( http://www.angelfire.com/de/cpbooks/calpost1.html ) from 11/19/1998 I was looking for volunteers for collective orders of the fantastic 1999 CP calendar by Thomas Carow and promised to get back to you with an US address to order. The volunteer for collective orders in the USA is: Thomas K. Hayes ( mailto:hayes7@aol.com ) DANGEROUS PLANTS http://www.tcscs.com/~thayes/ 7420 Tillman Drive Falls Church, VA 22043 U.S.A. His price within the USA was set to $34 plus $4.00 shipping - a great bargain compared to the German list price of about $40 plus internat. shipping! Those of you who already saw it know that it's not too late although it's a 1999 calendar. But it's also a HUUUUUGE picture book which makes a great gift and of course a collector's item for any serious CP fan. See Thomas' website ( http://www.tcscs.com/~thayes/ ) for great photographs of the calendar (many thanks to Andreas Wistuba for permission to use these!!!). IMPORTANT!!! Please contact Thomas Hayes for any questions. Please understand that this is a collective order which needs your timely participation as this might be done only once - there's no guarantee for a second order and the actual time of order (the deadline for your orders) depends on your response. Don't wait too long! Best regards, Stefan Wolf. -- Dipl.-Inform. Stefan P. Wolf ................................................ mail : Zehlendorfer Str. 69, 24111 Kiel, GERMANY phone: (+49 431) 5973173 * fax: (+49 431) 697568 CP books >> http://www.angelfire.com/de/cpbooks/ ................................................ ################### From: Hayes7@aol.com Date: Wed, 20 Jan 1999 11:11:20 EST Subject: The Carow CP calendar - new US source!!! Dear list, > The volunteer for collective orders in the USA is: -snip- > See Thomas' website ( http://www.tcscs.com/~thayes/ ) for I realize that the calendar page is very slow to load, but the size and quality of the pictures makes up for the wait. (Thanks Andreas!) >His price within the USA was set to $34 plus $4.00 shipping - a great >bargain compared to the German list price of about $40 plus internat. >shipping! $38 is still a lot of $$ to spend on a calendar. I wasn't even going to get one, prior to having seen it. All I can say, is that it's money WELL spent. In fact, that is why I decided to collect orders as a volunteer. I'm sure there are lots of people that just don't realize how beautiful it is. Anybody who is remotely serious about CP should have this calendar on the living room wall. The quality is really incredible and many thanks to Thomas Carow for this fine work. Thomas K. Hayes DANGEROUS PLANTS ################### From: Rand Nicholson Date: Wed, 20 Jan 1999 12:52:10 -0400 Subject: Re: the tale of the floating S. psittacina Hey Dave: >Hi Rand, your post of freezing cp's prompted me to talk about the floating >psittacina. > >Many of you will remember that last year, I overwintered a couple of S. >psittacina outside submerged in water. They did fine sitting at the bottom >of a plastic bucket where the water at the top froze many times over the >winter. > >This year, they became floating S. psittacina and spent the later part of >summer, fall, and winter floating in water. They love it. What's amazing >to me is that now when it freezes, they are trapped in a layer of ice and >the other week when it went down into the teens (F), they were completely >surrounded by frozen ice. Anything that freezes in Atlanta usually thaws >the next day (or 2 at the most) and the floating psittacinas are doing >great. > >I plan to leave them there permanently to see how they fare and how large >they will get. > >David >Atlanta I remember all too well your story of the Bucket Psitts. That story, in fact, was what prompted me to to put my double-crowned psittacina in a tub larger than the pot, fill it with water, and jam it up against the cold window this winter. The pot actually floats a bit, but freezes over nicely, with the leaves sticking out of the ice. It looks quite insane, at times. However, the psittacina is happier than it has ever been indoors in the winter. Seems to enjoy the afternoon sun, frozen or not. Next summer I am going to plop its pot in a large clear plastic container full of water (after division) and see what it does outdoors. This may prove a hardship to the ants that were all over it last summer, so I'll keep one division in my beer cooler bog. Be interesting to compare. Kind Regards, Rand Rand Nicholson New Brunswick The Great White ( January thaw Zone 5-ish, maybe) ################### From: Chris Teichreb Date: Wed, 20 Jan 1999 09:30:03 -0800 (PST) Subject: Re: Accursed plant predators! Hi Ian, > I put my windowsill plants outdoors for the winter, on my fire escape in > my urban neighborhood. > > Recently, something has been coming and tearing up the pitchers pretty > good. The Dioneaea and Droseraea (sp?) are all ok, but the Sarrs. are > pretty torn up. In my experience, the mice, cats, and racoons all tear apart the pitchers looking for the contents. However, since you say that they're attacking only the spindly, non insect filled pitchers, that seems to rule out these three culprits. > Given the locale, I figure the short list of suspects to be : > > a cat > a bird > a mouse > a racoon > > in descending order of neighborhood sightings. Any cat, bird owners > with relevant insight? Not a real critical growth issue (thanks, BTW, > for the replies on the horticultural charcoal thread) but a curiosity > nonetheless. I've never witnessed any birds destroying pitchers on my plants. They hop around in the pots looking for seeds (there's always wild grass seeds sprouting in my pots outside) or stealing sphagnum for nesting material. Cats will also usually dig up the plant, rather than destroy the top (anyone who grows any bulbs of any sort will agree!). So, my best advice is to sit inside for the entire day watching your plants until whatever it is comes to destroy it. Then, decisions must be made as to what to do to deter it as it will likely return in spring when it is a problem. This is coming from personal experience of plagues of squirrels and racoons (plus babies!). Sorry I couldn't be of more help! > > Thoughts? > > Thanks in advance, > > Ian > San Francisco, CA > > Chris ********************************** Chris Teichreb Department of Biological Sciences Simon Fraser University Burnaby, B.C. cjteichr@sfu.ca ********************************** ################### From: "Andy Falshaw" Date: Thu, 21 Jan 1999 08:58:46 GMT+1200 Subject: Nepenthes growing out of tanks I have a n. khasiana and n.venticrosa growing in a tank in my living room. Both are now well out of the tank, and pitchering happily on the 6 inches - 1 foot or so that's out of the tank. These are two of the hardiest and most vigourous of neps though, aren't they? Which two are your neps David? Andy > > To solve this problem, I thought about one > >solution: I'd open a hole in the terrarium's lid and let the plant continue > >growing outside it. But there's a big difference in humidity in and out... > >How would the plant react? > > I can't believe I'm answering a Nepenthes question (hint, hint!) > > The leaves that grow outside your terrarium are very likely not to produce > traps. I wanted to wait a few more months before reporting the following > observations about two Nepenthes in my house that are now growing outside > their terrarium, but this question fits right in my observations so far. > One Nepenthes has a leaf and tendril completely outside the terrarium and no > trap has formed. The other Nepenthes has about 25% of one leaf still in the > terrarium with the remaining leave outside but the tendril has dipped back > into the terrarium. The tip of the tendril is starting to enlarge and is on > its way to forming a trap. Another leaf is completely outside the terrarium > but its tip has dipped back into the terrarium. It hasn't done anything > yet. ################### From: "Mellard, David" Date: Wed, 20 Jan 1999 15:07:16 -0500 Subject: RE: Nepenthes growing out of tanks Hi Andy, >I have a n. khasiana and n.venticrosa growing in a tank in my living >room. Both are now well out of the tank, and pitchering happily on >the 6 inches - 1 foot or so that's out of the tank. These are two of >the hardiest and most vigourous of neps though, aren't they? This just goes to show that not all Nepenthes are created equal. > Which two are your neps David? One is N. x wrigleana. I'll have to check the tag on the other one. ################### From: "R. Beer" Date: Wed, 20 Jan 1999 08:24:41 -0800 (PST) Subject: Subject: Accursed plant predators! My condolences... You don't exactly have plant predators; you have insect predators - this is raccoon damage. They tear up the pitchers in order to get at the trapped insects inside. About the only thing you can do is build a cage around them; once raccoons learn of a food source, they never forget. I was about to give up on tall Sarracenias because of this - during the growing season, they even wait till the pitchers are well-developed and have a good cache of prey before you go out one morning and find everything shredded. Good luck! bob > Date: Tue, 19 Jan 1999 15:33:35 -0800 > From: "Kelley, Ian" > To: "'cp@opus.hpl.hp.com'" > Subject: Accursed plant predators! > Message-ID: > > I put my windowsill plants outdoors for the winter, on my fire escape in > my urban neighborhood. > > Recently, something has been coming and tearing up the pitchers pretty > good. The Dioneaea and Droseraea (sp?) are all ok, but the Sarrs. are > pretty torn up. > > I'm not real concerned, as most of the leaves are brown and at any rate > they will be safely inside during the growing season. Mostly, my > curiosity is piqued. It does not seem like the "attacker" was intent on > getting at the contents of the pitchers, as much as the pitchers > themselves. The tall, splindly ones seemed hardest hit. > > Given the locale, I figure the short list of suspects to be : > > a cat > a bird > a mouse > a racoon > > in descending order of neighborhood sightings. Any cat, bird owners > with relevant insight? Not a real critical growth issue (thanks, BTW, > for the replies on the horticultural charcoal thread) but a curiosity > nonetheless. > > Thoughts? > > Thanks in advance, > > Ian > San Francisco, CA ################### From: Destillo@aol.com Date: Wed, 20 Jan 1999 18:08:16 EST Subject: B. Gigantea Hello List!! I was curious of using the fire method for germinating B.Gigantea. If you read "The Savage Garden", it says that the smoke is what makes B. Gigantea germinate. Well I have a question about it: Can you use inscense sticks to germinate B.Gigantea???? Thanks For Advices, Jorel Estillore ################### From: "Mark Pogany" Date: Wed, 20 Jan 1999 18:08:16 -0500 Subject: More Drosophyllum info I'd like to add my 2 pence advice to the following: >I received some Drosophyllum seed today and was wondering what >techniques people use for germinating seed and for planting afterwards Hi Chris, I use a mix of 10 - 20 percent peat with the remaining ingredients equal parts (roughly) sand and perlite. Seeds are placed on top of the mix and the pot is placed in a tray of water. As each seed germinates and form a seedling (maybe 0.5 to 1 inch), I repot the seedling into the same mix and start watering from above when the mix gets almost completely dry. The seeds and plants grow under fluorescent lights all year long. I now have 2-year-old Drosophyllums and numerous seedlings. It's best to have only one plant per pot as any extra plants seem to slowly die off. As you know, Drosophyllums don't like overwatering and are actually very forgiving when it comes to underwatering. I've found wilted plants occasionally having misjudged when the mix's dampness. They come back upon watering. I plan to put a few outside this spring in an area that gets some direct sun but no rain and may try one outside that gets rain. David Atlanta Browsing through the back issues of CPN I picked up a good way to water Drosophyllum. Sorry, but I can't recall which volume or issue it was. This technique, though in its early phases with me, is a modification of the late great Adrian Slack's design in his book Insect Eating Plants and How to Grow Them. Sow at least 3 seeds an inch or so apart in a 6" CLAY pot, the bottom hole being covered up and sealed with a bit of aquarium repair silicone before adding media, such as described in David's letter above. Once they germinate and are about an inch high remove the weaker one( s), leaving the most vigorous for your plant. Take an 8" PLASTIC pot and fill the bottom inch with living or dead sphagnum moss. Add your clay pot, positioning it in the center of the larger one. Pack the space around with more sphagnum, filling in to just below the top of the inner pot. Place this nested pot into a shallow 1 inch saucer. >From then on watering is only done to the sphagnum moss surrounding the inner pot with the saucer to catch and store the drainage. The inner pots soil will dry out at the surface, remaining barely moist further down. The wicking action of the porous clay sides and bottom will serve to regulate the slight moisture that Drosophyllums require without rotting the roots. Just be careful not to let water get on the surface of the inner pot! Mark Pogany Cleveland, Ohio ( 40f and sunny for once!) markp@en.com ################### From: "T. Williams" Date: Thu, 21 Jan 1999 09:00:43 +0900 Subject: Cooling Darlingtonias Re: cooling darlingtonias I have not yet tried this but perhaps it would be feasible to cool Darlingtonias using Peltier effect solid-state heat pumps. These are thin plates of materials which become cold on one side and hot on the other when a current is passed through the device (a low DC voltage is required). They are very efficient and compact although a bit expensive. The reliability and size factors might make them worth the effort for one or two plants. A simple thermostat would also be needed but the electronics requirements are easy and commonplace. The installation could then consist of the peltier effect plates, insulated container for the plants and possibly a small computer-type fan underneath to remove the pumped heat from the vicinity. Tim Williams. ################### From: Chris Teichreb Date: Wed, 20 Jan 1999 16:15:47 -0800 (PST) Subject: Re: B. Gigantea Hi all, > Hello List!! > I was curious of using the fire method for germinating B.Gigantea. If you > read "The Savage Garden", it says that the smoke is what makes B. Gigantea > germinate. Well I have a question about it: > Can you use inscense sticks to germinate B.Gigantea???? > > Thanks For Advices, > Jorel Estillore > This made me laugh at the thought, nothing personal Jorel, as I'm sure it may actually work, it just presented a funny image in my mind. 60's flashback, which is bad, since I wasn't around then ;)! It may very well work, although it seems a bit troublesome to do this as compared to just burning some twigs, or even a bit of newspaper, although incense sticks do smoke a lot. If you try it, make sure to let us know how it works! Happy growing, Chris ********************************** Chris Teichreb Department of Biological Sciences Simon Fraser University Burnaby, B.C. cjteichr@sfu.ca ********************************** ################### From: Hayes7@aol.com Date: Wed, 20 Jan 1999 20:25:09 EST Subject: Re: D. schizandra Angie and list, > Has anyone used any kind of insecticide on D. schizandra without frying > the plant? My one plant looks like it may have spider mites. The Perhaps orthene.... I have been using this on a wide variety of CP with no ill effects, Just about everything else seems to kill schizandra :( Even if it doesn't work, the mites will kill it anyway..... > leaves are alamost transparent and the older leaves have holes in them. Are they getting too much light? And how big are the holes in the leaves? Break off a leaf and get out a hand lense. You will know really quick if you have mites and if you don't, then you just have a leaf cutting on your hands:) > I have been spraying them with a forceful jet of water to remove any I would think this would do more harm than good? My personal suggestion would be to ditch the whole thing if orthene doesn't work. It is much easier to get another plant, (want to trade?) than to get rid of a spider mite infestation! -Tom- ################### From: CMcdon0923@aol.com Date: Wed, 20 Jan 1999 21:23:27 EST Subject: Drosera Surprize Just a little note for what it's worth..... Last Spring I bought a group of Darlingtonia from my local Home Depot and Lowe's outlets. All have been kept in their own terrarium, completely separate from all my other plants. I transplanted several into a rather shallow container in order to form a "Darlingtonia garden" type environment. Bad idea. Most of the "garden" plants died, but I managed to save one of two stolons and have replanted them. But, back to the main point...... Last week when I cleaned out the dead plants, I found a nice little Drosera growing out of the thick sphagnum mat that had begun to overgrow the container. By all accounts, it appears to be D. prolifera. Since transplanting it, at least two new traps have opened, with several other on the way. The Darlingtonia were from Gubler's. Since I kept the plants totally isolated from everything else, and I did not previously have any D. prolifera, I assume it had to originate from Gubler's. But, I've never seen any D. prolifera offered from them before. Oh well, no complaints from here! ################### From: "T. Williams" Date: Thu, 21 Jan 1999 12:01:50 +0900 Subject: Re: Rockwool Rockwool might be fine for plugging up the bottom of pots, but one would be treading on thin ice to suggest that it does not break down. Time, tide and especially the effects of water will break down anything eventually, including rocks. Not knowing the origins of a particular brand of rockwool I would be inclined to treat it with distinct suspicion until tested (and preferably not on one's own collection). The extremely high surface area of rockwool fibres would greatly facilitate leaching out of any alkali metal ions when in contact with water, acid or otherwise. I'd like to bet that like many other silicate minerals, "rockwool" is choco with leachable ions covering half the periodic table. For anyone out there working in a University with a half-decent chem department testing this would be a trivial matter. Take care, Tim Williams. ################### From: Michael Peterson Date: Wed, 20 Jan 1999 20:37:38 -0800 Subject: Darlingtonia dormancy Chris Teichreb asked >Noticed the other day that a local nursery had a pot of >Darlingtonia for sale... would it survive if it was placed in a cool >windowsill with low light levels (ie: north) and allowed to go dormant >until spring, or is it too late for this plant? Chris, I purchased a similar (Gubler's) plant in late fall, and just stuck it outside in a small stream with my big Darlingtonia and my S. psittacina. I'm located on Vancouver Island, so same climate as you. It still looks fine, and gets lots of rain washing through it. I'd take a chance if I were you - they're pretty well suited to this part of the world Regards, Jill Peterson ################### From: stock-2000@stock-2000.com Date: Wednesday, January 20, 1999 6:54:56 o'clock PM EST Subject: ADV: Stock-2000 Finds Stock for the Next Millennium!!! To our dedicated subscribers, we thank you for believing in us and hope you were profitable with our last profile. To our new subscribers, we hope you enjoy and prosper in the future. Visit for http://www.stock-2000.com for full details and the full Wall Street Journal Story. We are reiterating our previous profile of D-Lanz Development Group, Inc (DLNZ). Recent developments have caused us to revisit this dynamic and exciting situation. The reasons we are so excited is because of the encouraging press releases that have come out concerning the company. DLNZ is about to increase their territory and with this increase the BreastCare device will become available to millions of additional potential buyers. We believe this should have a major impact to the bottom line. For full details please read the following profile, an article from the Wall Street Journal (01-05-99) and additional comments by the CEO of D-Lanz Development Group, Mr. Roger Fidler. Here is what impresses us. D-Lanz Development Group (herein after referred to as "DLNZ" or "the Company") has a non-invasive product already approved by the FDA that every woman in the world can obtain to detect breast abnormalities (e.g. cancer)! Rather than undergoing a mammography, a primary care physician, gynecologist or other medical specialist can insert this device, (sold internationally under the trademark BreastCare and in the United States as BreastAlert), inside a woman's brassiere where it is left for a period of 15 minutes If the device indicated unilateral breast thermal activity, the physician is alerted to the possibility of a physiological condition including thermally active cancer. Breast cancer, one of the most common cancers among women, is currently the leading cause of death among women between the ages of 25 and 54, in the United States. This suggests that a tremendous market awaits this product as it becomes available, not only in American but other countries as well. We project that overseas markets will compound demand for the product accordingly. In 1997, DLNZ acquired an exclusive license to market its BreastCare indicator in Chile and Singapore. It has recently been given authority to market in South Korea. Using this as a stepping stone, the company eventually intends to market this device in other eastern countries. We believe that in the coming months, women all around the globe will be attracted to this non-invasive method to detect breast cancer and other abnormalities. In the United States, breast cancer screening is generally recommended as a routine part of preventive health care for more than 90 million women. In addition, industry sources estimate that approximately 11.3 million mammograms and 800,000 surgical biopsies were performed in the U.S. in 1994 (the last year for which such data is available from the Center for Disease Control) so as DLNZ begins to distribute products, we believe demand will rapidly increase, consequently boosting revenue and earnings to impressive levels. In conclusion, we are impressed with the results of the research done at Sloan-Kettering Hospital, Georgetown University School of Medicine, Anderson Hospital and Tumor Institute, Brottman Memorial Hospital (UCLA), and Guttman Cancer Diagnostic Institute. Investor Relations Contact: Roger Fidler Chief Executive Officer Phone (201) 457-1221 THE COMPANY D-LANZ Development Group Inc. (DLNZ), a development stage company, commenced business activities as a partnership in 1947 and was incorporated in 1952 under the name Osrow Products Company, Inc. In 1990,the company amended its certificate of incorporation to change its name to D-Lanz Development Group Inc. In September of 1997 D-Lanz Development Group acquired the assets of Health Technologies International, Inc. (HTI). It was through this acquisition that the company acquired exclusivity in Chile and Singapore to market the breast thermal activity indicator ("BTAI") device that is now called BreastCare. BreastCare is a primary breast cancer screening device, sold in the United States under the trade name BreastAlert by HumaScan, Inc. D-Lanz Development Group licenses marketing rights for BreastCare from Scantek Medial, Inc of Denville, New Jersey for the countries of Chile, Singapore and (anticipated shortly) South Korea. THE PRODUCT BreastCare is non-invasive, easy to use low-cost indicator that has proven to be an excellent adjunctive test used by primary care physicians, gynecologists and other medical specialists. As part of a breast disease monitoring program, BreastCare should be used in some combination with breast self-examination, palpation and (depending on a patient's age, family history and other factors) mammography and other established clinical procedures, including ultrasound and/or biopsy. An important feature of the BreastCare is that the results are immediately available (often within 15 minutes) to the physician while the patient is "on site" at the point of care in the physicians office, clinic, hospital and/or mammography center. In Chile and Singapore, the woman can obtain the results at home since the product can be sold over the counter through drug stores. If BreastCare indicated unilateral breast thermal activity (i.e. in one breast only), the physician is alerted to the possibility of an "unknown" physiological condition that could include thermally active cancer. PRODUCT ORIGIN The original device was patented in 1980 by Dr. Zsigmond L. Sagi who assigned the patents to a private company called BCSI Laboratories, Inc. which shortly thereafter was acquired by Faberge. In 1984, following the original devices 510(k), (FDA authorization to market), Faberge constructed a plant to commence commercial production. In 1985, McGregor Industries acquired Faberge and discontinued many Faberge products including the original breastdevice. In 1986, DR Sagi formed Scantek Medical Corp. and purchased the devices patent rights (including the regulatory clearances) from McGregor Industries. In 1995 Scantek granted an exclusive license to HumaScan to manufacture and market the device in the U.S. and Canada under the trademark name of BreastAlert. In 1997 D-Lanz became the licensed marketer of the device in Chile and Singapore under the trademark name BreastCare. COMPETITION Primary competition for BreastCare is mammography. The company has not applied for any governmental approval of its product in the territories of its exclusive license however, strong indications are that since the product was approved for use in the United States, its registration in those territories will proceed rapidly. Currently, Scantek Medical manufactures BreastCare for the company on a cost plus basis. Sandell S.A., which distributes BreastCare for Scantek throughout South America through a system of sub-distributors, has agreed to distribute in Chile on behalf of D-Lanz. The Company Anticipates that Grupo Grifols, S.A., an international distributor of a variety of medical products will distribute in Chile for Sandell through its sales and distribution company G.G. Chile. Formed in 1940 and owned 50/50 by Spanish shareholders and Green Cross Corporation, Grupo Grifols has over 1,000 employees and annual revenues of over 20 billion pesetas. INDUSTRY BACKGROUND For over thirty years, breast cancer detection has been dominated in technically advanced countries by mammography. In less economically developed areas of the world, self-examination and professional palpation are extensively used. The basic problem with mammography is one of capital cost with equipment running from hundreds of thousands of dollars in the millions. This fact, along with the costs associated with expert reading of mammograms, results in costs in the United States of between $100 and $200 per reading. In less advantaged countries, the price is lower, but still high in comparison with local per capita income. For example, according to various sources, a mammogram in South Korea costs between $30 and $40 (US). Whole BreastCare is not expected to exceed the $20 range. In addition to cost, mammography requires expert reading, usually done by a physician or trained specialist. The reading process itself is subject to a high degree of variability and introduces a significant source of error. These errors are compounded by problems associated with breast tissue density. This is the cause of frequently reported controversy as to the age at which mammography is recommended. Clearly, women over 50 are almost always advised to have an annual or biennial mammogram. However, for women between the ages of 40 and 50, there is widespread disagreement as to the effectiveness of mammograms. Below the age of 40, mammograms are not recommended due to the difficulty in distinguishing between tumor tissue and young healthy dense breast tissue. TECHNOLOGY As breast cancer cells multiply, excessive heat is often generated. This heat is conveyed to the surface of the breast, resulting in the temperature of the skin of a particular area of one breast being elevated between 2 degrees and 6degrees Fahrenheit in comparison to the temperature of the same area of the other breast. Simply explained, BreastCare permits the measurement and comparison of temperature variances between mirror images of each breast. BreastCare consists of two soft disposable pads, each of which has three wafer-thin segments containing columns of "heat-sensitive chemical" sensor dots that change color from blue to pink, reflecting an 8.5 degree temperature range between 90 degrees to 98.5 degrees Fahrenheit. This device is placed over a woman's breast inside her bra for a period of 15 minutes. An elevated temperature differential of two degrees Fahrenheit (or more) between each breast, in the same location, may indicate either thermal (metabolic) active breast cancer cells certain types of heat-generating breast disease. Because of its digitized readability, which is not dependent on tissue density, BreastCare is very effective with younger women. It provides a relatively easy method of reading and interpreting the results, rendering it more useful in an "over-the-counter" application in those foreign countries where such distribution is allowed. RECENT DEVELOPMENTS On August 20, 1998, the company announced that it had entered into a distribution agreement with Sandell corp. S.A. to distribute BreastCare in Chile. Mr. Roger Fidler, the Company's president stated "This agreement should result in the first revenues into our company before the end of this year. It is the first step toward achievement of our primary corporate goal of establishing distribution throughout our countries before year end." MANAGEMENT Mr. Fidler has been the sole Director, President, Chief Executive and Financial Officer of the company since September 1989. He will serve until the next annual meeting scheduled for May 1999, or until his successor is elected and qualified. Since 1983, Mr. Fidler has been engaged in the private practice of law. From 1994 to the present, he also has been president of PPA Technologies, Inc, a private specialty chemicals company. From 1994 to 1997, Mr. Fidler was also President of Health Technologies International, Inc. a private medical device company that in 1997 was subsequently merged into DLNZ. Mr. Fidler has a MA from University of South Carolina. He also has a Masters degree in Physics from University of Illinois. Mr. Hait has served as Secretary of the corporation since November 1997 and will continue to serve until his successor is elected and qualified. Mr. Hait has worked as an attorney in Mr. Filder's law practice since May of 1997. Prior to that, from 1994 to 1996, Mr. Hait was employed as a computer programmer at Isis Corporation of Oakland, NJ. During 1993, Mr.Hait worked as a help desk LAN Technician at MDY Advanced Technologies of Fair Lawn, NJ. Prior to 1993, for approximately one year, he occupied the same capacity for Viacom in New York City. RECENT PRESS RELEASES ================================ Dow Jones News Service via DowVision D-LANZ PLANS TO SUPPLY BREASTCARE PRODUCT IN MALAYSIA, INDONESIA GLEN ROCK, NJ (Dow Jones) - D-Lanz Development group, Inc, (DLNZ) was given permission by Scantek Medical Inc. (SKML) to negotiate with Indonesian and Malaysian distributors to supply Scantek's Breastcare device in those countries. scantek holds the worldwide rights to the device, which detects abnormalities in the breast, including breast cancer. A D-Lanz spokesman said the company will receive unspecified monetary fees from the distributors. "There is no obligation to pay a fee to Scantek," The spokesman added, D-Lanz plans to distribute the device in Indonesia and Malaysia in the second calendar quarter of this year. In a press release Friday, the company said Breastcare gross margins are expected to be more than 50% of sales. D-Lanz sales figures weren't immediately available. (END) DOW JONES NEWS 01-08-99 ================================ 11:39AM Copyright 1999 Dow Jones & Company, Inc. DDG MORE THAN TRIPLES POTENTIAL CUSTOMER BASE FOR SECOND TIME IN TWO MONTHS Glen Rock, New Jersey December November 6, 198-1:30pm EST D-Lanz Development Group, Inc. (DLNZ-OTC Bulletin Board) announced today that it had been given permission by Scantek medical, inc. to negotiate with Indonesian and Malaysian distributors to distribute its Breastcare device in Indonesia and Malaysia. Roger Fidler, President of D-Lanz stated, "the net effect of the expansion of our distribution rights into Indonesia and Malaysia is to once again more than triple the number of women to whom DDG may distribute Breastcare. Indonesia alone has a population of over two hundred million persons." with rights in Chile, Singapore, South Korea, Indonesia and Malaysia, DDG will be serving a relevant female population of about one hundred million. Breastcare gross margins are expected to exceed fifty percent (50%) of sales according to Mr. Fidler. Breastcare is the trade name for Scantek Medical's revolutionary new method of breast abnormality, including breast cancer detection which DDG licenses. For further information Contact Roger Fidler, CEO (201) 457-1221 ****** DISCLAIMER ****** This material is being provided by Stock-2000, an electronic newsletter paid by the issuer for publishing the information contained in this report. D-Lanz Development Group, Inc. has paid a consideration of 15,000 shares of common stock of D-Lanz Development Group, Inc. to Stock-2000 as payment for the publication of the information contained in this report. Stock-2000 and its affiliates have agreed not to sell the common stock received as payment for its services until December 7, 1998, which date is 15 days from the initial dissemination of this report. After such date, Stock-2000 may sell such shares. Because Stock-2000 is paid for its services, there is an inherent conflict of interest in Stock-2000's statements and opinions and such statements and opinions cannot be considered independent. The information contained in this publication is for informational purposes only, and not to be construed as an offer to sell or solicitation of an offer to buy any security. Stock-2000 makes no representation or wa rrant relating to the validity of the facts presented nor does Stock-2000 represent or warrant that all material facts necessary to make an investment decision are presented above. All statements of opinions are those of Stock-2000. Stock-2000 relies exclusively on information gathered from public filings on featured companies, as well as, in certain circumstances, interviews conducted by Stock-2000 of management of featured companies. Investors should not rely solely on the information contained in this publication. Rather, investors should use the information contained in this publication as a starting point for conducting additional research on the featured companies in order to allow the investor to form his or her own opinion regarding the featured companies. Factual statements contained in this publication are made as of the date stated and they are subject to change without notice. Stock-2000 is not a registered investment adviser, broker or a dealer. Investment in the companies reviewed is speculativ e and extremely high-risk and may result in the loss of some or all of any investment made in D-Lanz Development Group, Inc. This publication contains forward-looking statements that are subject to risk and uncertainties that could cause results to differ materially from those set forth in the forward-looking statements. These forward-looking statements represent the judgment of D-Lanz Development Group, Inc. as of the date of this publication. The Company disclaims any intent or obligation to update these forward-looking statements. ################### From: "Mellard, David" Date: Thu, 21 Jan 1999 08:27:58 -0500 Subject: RE: More Drosophyllum info >Take an 8" PLASTIC pot and fill the bottom inch with living or dead sphagnum >moss. Add your clay pot, positioning it in the center of the larger one. >Pack the space around with more sphagnum, filling in to just below the top >of the inner pot. Place this nested pot into a shallow 1 inch saucer. Hi Mark, This sounds like a neat idea. I'll start one this weekend. David Atlanta ################### From: "Sundew Sundew" Date: Thu, 21 Jan 1999 07:24:40 PST Subject: Drosera sessilifolia Hi list. I recently planted seed I received labelled D.sessilifolia. At the same time, I planted D.burmanii (green) and the hybrid between the 2. I think Fernando (where are you? email me if you're back!) mentioned sessilifolia is very similar to burmanii but my plants look exactly the same so far except "sessilifolia" has pink-red tentacles whereas burmanii's are white. I've heard of red burmaniis floating around (heck, isnt that 1 on the cover of Kondo's old book?). Im wondering if what I have is really the true sessilifolia. It originally came from the ICPS seed bank. (Thanks, Joe!!) They're only a couple months old and probably wont flower for a while. Opinions, anyone? It's a little late but I wanted to thank the fellow listmembers who sent me gemmae (you know who you are!). I got great results and now have quite a few pygmies growing well. Planted them a couple of months ago as well and pygmaea and occidentalis are already flowering! Anybody growing D.barbigera?? Happy growing! Matt New York USA ################### From: SCHLAUER@chemie.uni-wuerzburg.de Date: Thu, 21 Jan 1999 16:40:46 Subject: Re: _Drosera sessilifolia_ Dear Matt, > I > think Fernando (where are you? email me if you're back!) mentioned > sessilifolia is very similar to burmanii but my plants look exactly the > same so far (...) Why do you write "but"? I do not see any contradiction. > They're only a couple months old and probably wont flower for a while. > Opinions, anyone? Without a flower, I guess no human being will be able to tell these two species apart (if they are not labeled, of course). And even with a flower, they are sufficiently similar to be regarded as a single species. The only substantial reason (of doubtful validity) why this is generally not done is the huge geographic disjunction of the two species. Kind regards Jan ################### From: "Susan Farrington" Date: Thu, 21 Jan 1999 11:05:58 +0000 Subject: Cooling darlingtonia I've had good luck keeping Darlingtonia seedlings alive for two hot Missouri summers (often in the 90's or higher and very humid) just using a styrofoam box that had been used to ship insects. I cut a hole in the top of the box's lid to fit the 6" plastic pot into... the pot sits in the hole, its sides and bottoms inside the box, but it's top is outside the box, even with the top of the lid. The plants are growing outside, but their roots are kept cooler by the inside of the box. There is about 3 to 4" of space between the bottom of the box and the bottom of the pot. I put cool ice packs in there, and I water the plant overhead, so cool water gathers below (but generally the plant doesn't sit in the water). I've found that I don't even need to change the cool pack that often... every few days can be enough. The water at least stays moderately cool, and that keeps the inside of the box cooer than the outside airl. So far, the potted plant in the box has done much better than pots not in the box. All are kept on a shady north-facing front porch, receiving lots of light, but very little direct sun (maybe a tiny bit of morning sun). In winter, they go in my cool greenhouse. Susan Farrington Missouri Botanical Garden Susan Farrington Missouri Botanical Garden sfarrington@ridgway.mobot.org (314)577-9402 ################### From: "TED HADLEY" Date: Wed, 20 Jan 1999 20:45:56 -0800 Subject: some photomicrographs and a neat kit Hi All, Here are a couple of photomicrographs that I found that you might be interested in: Drosera leaf hair cross section: http://www.fortunecity.com/meltingpot/research/48/drosera.jpg This photo is by Randy Moore/Visuals Unlimited, in "Biology," by Raven, P. H., and Johnson, G. B., 1986. This is a good intro biology text of about freshman college level. Caption: "A complex multicellular hair from the leaves of the Sundew, Drosera. Such hairs secrete the enzymes that the plant uses to digest the bodies of its insect prey." ====== Arthrobotrys conoides, the neamotode-trapping fungus, with a trapped Rhabditis: http://www.fortunecity.com/meltingpot/research/48/arthrobotrys.jpg This photo is from the Carolina Biological Supply catalog, 1999. Caption: "Arthrobotrys conoides, the nematode trapping fungus. From AA-15-5802 Carnivorous Fungus Kit" Text from higher up on the same page: * Carnivorous Fungus Kit For a class of 30. Students subculture and then observe the growth of the soil fungus Arthrobotrys conoides on cornmeal agar plates. When Rhabditis, a nematode, is inoculated into these plates, the fungus traps, digests, and absorbs the nematode's internal contents. We know of no more graphic way to teach absorbtive nutrition of fungi. The exercise requires 10 days from setup to completion. The exercise requires the use of a stereomicroscope. With teacher instructions. Arthrobotrys conoides Plate Culture Rhabditis tube culture (on potato plug medium) 2 bottles cornmeal agar 10 sterile petri dishes metal innoculating loop Autoclave disposal bag AA-15-5802 Per Kit $31.75 +1-800-334-5551, have your VISA card ready. :-) -------- Ted A. Hadley, Senior Mineralogist hadleyt@usa.net Mineralogical Investigation Services Sunnyvale, CA 94087 USA ################### From: "Adao Pereira" Date: Thu, 21 Jan 1999 21:27:50 -0000 Subject: Nepenthes humidity and Drosophyllum germination Hi, all! Thanks for your advices... Indeed, I have grown one Nepenthes hybrid outside the terrarium and it never produced pitchers. BTW, concerning the Drosophyllum, I just want to say that I germinated some seeds by placing them in distilled water for 48 hours and sow them about 5 mm below the soil's surface. They all germed in about 2 weeks. Good growing! Miguel ################### From: Peter Cole Date: Thu, 21 Jan 1999 23:42:38 +0800 Subject: Re: Use of CP's in medicine Drosera have a long history of perceived medicinal virtue. I have a few recipes from the 16th and 17th centuries which are quite amusing, so I'll share them with you. "Rosa Solis" (dew of the sun) refers to Drosera rotundifolia. "Rosa-solis strengtheneth and nourisheth the body, especially if it be distilled with wine and that liquor made thereof which the common people do call Rosa Solis. If any be desirous to haue the saide drinke effectuall for the purposes aforesaid, let them lay the leaues of Rosa Solis in the spirit of wine, adding thereto Cinnamom, Cloues, Maces, Ginger, Nutmegs, Sugar, and a fewe grains of Muske, suffering it to stand in a glasse close stopt from the aire, and let in the sunne by the space of ten daies more: then straine the same and keepe it for your vse." from _The Herball or Generall Historie of Plants_ by John Gerard, 1597 (I think we can safely assume that's out of copyright :-) and "Take of the hearbe Rosa-solis, gathered in Iulie, one gallon, pick out the black moates from the leaues; Dates, half a pound; Cinamon, Ginger, Cloues, of each one ounce; grains, half an ounce; fine sugar, a pound and a half; red Rose-leaues, green or dryed, foure handfuls; steep all these in a gallon of good Aqua Composita, in a glass close stopped with wax, during twentie daies: shake it well together once every two daies. Your Sugar must be powdred, your spices bruised onely, or grossely beaten; your Dates cut in long slices, the stones taken away. If you add two or three grains of Ambergreece, and as much Musk, in your glasse, among the rest of the Ingredients, it will haue a pleasant smell. Some adde the Gum Amber, with corall and pearle finely powdred, and fine leaf-gold. Some vse to boil Ferdinando buck in Rose-water, till they haue purchased a faire, deep crimson colour: and when the same is cold, they colour their Rosa-solis and Aqua Rubea therewith." from _Delightes for Ladies_ by Sir Hugh Plat, 1609 The amber, coral, pearls and gold were believed to have medicinal value and the reference to "black moates" is of course instruction to remove all the dead flies before making your drink (yuk!) also "...in those Cordial Waters where the Ros Solis, or Rosa Solis is used, which is an Herb not always to be found, and will not keep above a day or two after 'tis gather'd, this I say may be distilled by itself, and kept to use with other Waters at pleasure; putting of this such a proportion as would have been produced from the quantity directed, of the Plant, in the Receipt, if it had been distill'd with the other Herbs: and so of any other Herb that is hard to come by." from _The Country Housewife and Lady's Director_ by Richard Bradley ,1727 I'm trying to build up enough in vitro material to make a pint or two of this - I'll let you all know how it turns out if/when I try it (I just hope it's better than the Ta"tmio"lk I tried a couple of years ago :) Happy growing, Peter mailto:carnivor@flytrap.demon.co.uk : http:www.flytrap.demon.co.uk/cchome.htm Cambrian Carnivores,17,Wimmerfield Cr.,SWANSEA,SA2 7BU, UK : tel 01792 205214 Carnivorous Plants,Seeds & Tissue Culture Kits - mailorder,export & wholesale ################### From: Peter Cole Date: Fri, 22 Jan 1999 0:46:20 +0800 Subject: 16th century CP cultivation So how old do you think the hobby of carnivorous plant growing is? We didn't have an international or UK society until the 1970s. Most people, I would guess would know the Victorians grew many species, especially Nepenthes, and perhaps some would recall Tradescant's introduction of Sarracenia to Britain in the late 17th century. But I think I've found the oldest reference to the practice yet in one of the books I quoted from recently re: use of CP's in medicine. "This Herb...[Rosa Solis = D.rotundifolia]... grows in Bogs, and when we find it we may preserve it artificially, by either planting it immediately in other boggy places or else in artificial Bogs, made of Earth and Water in Tubs, or Earthen Pots, made without holes in the bottom" from _The Herball or Generall Historie of Plants_ by John Gerard, 1597 This conjures up a lovely picture to me of mediaeval housewives up and down the country making Drosera bog gardens, and presumably enjoying their sparkliness as much as we do. It was presumably a well-established practice by the time of writing, and the 2 other recipes spreading over the next ~130 years show it continued for at least that long. We are clearly following in the footsteps of a tradition that goes back over 400 years - rather further than I think most of us would have expected! Anyone know of any earlier references? Quite possibly Pinguicula vulgaris was similarly cultivated at the time, as this had a number of folk medicinal uses, notably for relieving the inflammation of chapped udders in milking cattle. Happy growing, Peter mailto:carnivor@flytrap.demon.co.uk : http:www.flytrap.demon.co.uk/cchome.htm Cambrian Carnivores,17,Wimmerfield Cr.,SWANSEA,SA2 7BU, UK : tel 01792 205214 Carnivorous Plants,Seeds & Tissue Culture Kits - mailorder,export & wholesale ################### From: "Mark Pogany" Date: Fri, 22 Jan 1999 04:56:29 -0500 Subject: RE: 16th century CPs steep all these in a gallon of good Aqua Composita, in a glass close stopped with wax, during twentie daies: shake it well together once every two daies. Your Sugar must be powdred, your spices bruised onely, or grossely beaten; your Dates cut in long slices, the stones taken away Peter, Thanks for sending in these last two postings. Great stuff! Mark Pogany Cleveland, Ohio markp@en.com ################### From: Loyd Wix Date: 22 Jan 1999 13:28:02 Z Subject: Utricularia pollination and in-vitro propagation Dear All, I have been able to generate seed by self pollinating some of the large S.American Utricularia species such as U.reniformis. This is quite simple to do with a small brush as the reproductive structures of the flowers are quite large by comparison with more diminutive species. Such seed is viable but short lived Jan, >_U. humboldtii_ germinated immediately (you could actually >see the plant emerge from the seed coat a few hours after >sowing). As probably most of the readers on this list know >(I write this for those who did not know yet), _U. >humboldtii_ has a green embryo in the transparent testa, so >it is in fact "germinated" already before it is sown. Old >seeds with brown embryos are generally dead. Some plants of >this species should still be in cultivation (in vitro) at >several places. Was this the seed I sent you some years ago? If you would like to get some more in cultivation I may be able to help in several weeks time. I have never managed to generate seed on my U.alpina plant which flowers regularly - this 'clone' does not appear to form pollen. I understand that this plant was originally from in-vitro and that other plants of U.alpina will quite happily set seed. Is there any possibility of the hormones etc in the growth media interfering with the plants biochemistry effectively making it sterile? There are other reports of in-vitro plants 'going wrong' in the UK - Pinguicula which constantly divide but never flower, others which do not know what time of year it is and form winter rosettes in mid summer. There was also a Heliamphora circulating 9 or 10 years ago which just like Peter Pan never grew up and kept forming juvenile pitchers until most people got fed up with it and replaced it with clones which do produce adult pitchers. I would be interested to know whether these observations are purely anecdotal or whether in-vitro cultivation can lead to subsequent problems when the plants are unflasked. Regards Loyd PS A phone call from my wife informs me that Lowries Vol.3. has just arrived through my letter box - I can't wait to get home this evening! ################### From: "Mellard, David" Date: Fri, 22 Jan 1999 09:07:10 -0500 Subject: Pinguicula luscitanica and P. moranensis I thought I would talk about my experiences with P. luscitanica to find out if I'm growing this species properly. Somewhere between 1 and 2 years ago, I planted seed on a mix of 1 part sand and 1 part milled sphagnum peat moss. They have since germinated, and flowered last summer having spent their entire life under fluorescent lights. I've kept them in the basement so they've never experienced our long, hot summers. Right now days are usually in the 70's to occasionally 80's (F) and nights are in the 50's to occasionally 60's now that they are in an enclosed grow room for the winter that has plastic on 2 walls separating the grow room from outdoor weather. One of the things that's bothering me is that the plants are maybe 1 cm in diameter. Is this the right size for luscitanica? They have never formed winter buds (Should they?), and the leaves have always seemed to be very curled. I also have a question about P. moranensis. I removed the pot from a tray of water maybe 1 to 2 months ago to try to induce winter dormancy. I have watered the pot occasionally, maybe once every 2 weeks for fear that the plants would dry out too much. They are still catching insects voraciously, and I'm concerned that I'm not giving them the winter dormancy they need. Any suggestions? Should I get tough! David Atlanta ################### From: schlauer@chemie.uni-wuerzburg.de Date: Fri, 22 Jan 1999 15:26:02 +0000 Subject: Re: Utricularia pollination and in-vitro propagation Dear Loyd, > Was this the seed I sent you some years ago? Maybe. I received seeds from various people. > If you would > like to get some more in cultivation I may be able to help > in several weeks time. TNX, but I do not need more. > I have never managed to generate seed on my U.alpina plant > which flowers regularly - this 'clone' does not appear to > form pollen. I understand that this plant was originally > from in-vitro and that other plants of U.alpina will quite > happily set seed. It could equally well be growing conditions, effects of a particular clone, etc. The factors affecting seed fertility in Lentibulariaceae are, as I mentioned in my previous mail, essentially unknown. > Is there any possibility of the hormones > etc in the growth media interfering with the plants > biochemistry effectively making it sterile? I am not able to exclude this possibility, but _U. alpina_ as well as a whole lot of other species can be grown successfully without the addition of any hormones. > There are other > reports of in-vitro plants 'going wrong' in the UK - > Pinguicula which constantly divide but never flower, others > which do not know what time of year it is and form winter > rosettes in mid summer. This is entirely normal in vitro. >. I would be interested to know > whether these observations are purely anecdotal or whether > in-vitro cultivation can lead to subsequent problems when > the plants are unflasked. Both legend and truth seem to be involved here. Kind regards Jan ################### From: Hayes7@aol.com Date: Fri, 22 Jan 1999 11:21:23 EST Subject: Re: Pinguicula luscitanica and P. moranensis David and list, your growing method sounds perfect.... > One of the things that's bothering me is that the plants are maybe 1 cm in > diameter. Is this the right size for luscitanica? They have never formed > winter buds (Should they?), and the leaves have always seemed to be very > curled. the plants are generally small to begin with and while some of mine have gotten larger, don't ever expect to see a plant larger than 2 cm.... Or if there are people out there with a clone that does get that large, please contact me - I want seed! This species doesn't form a winter but and the leaves are supposed to be rolled at the edges. Again, nothing wrong here IMHO. > I also have a question about P. moranensis. I removed the pot from a tray > of water maybe 1 to 2 months ago to try to induce winter dormancy. I have > watered the pot occasionally, maybe once every 2 weeks for fear that the > plants would dry out too much. They are still catching insects voraciously, > and I'm concerned that I'm not giving them the winter dormancy they need. > Any suggestions? Should I get tough! Mine seem to go dormant more based on photoperiod. Certain species such as P. gypsicola and P. heterophylla definitely need a dry dormant period, but don't get too tough on moranensis :) Take care & keep on growing, Thomas Hayes DANGEROUS PLANTS callendar orders rolling in.... get your today! http://www.tcscs.com/~thayes/calendar/ ################### From: Diana at Meadowview Date: Fri, 22 Jan 1999 11:33:31 -0500 Subject: New CP site... check it out! See Phil Sheridan's new site on the net: www.pitcherplant.org Comment's, suggentions on web design can come to me. Comment's on content can go to him at: meadowview@pitcherplant.org ################### From: Phil Sheridan Date: Fri, 22 Jan 1999 12:08:09 -0800 Subject: subscribe subscribe ################### From: Chris Teichreb Date: Fri, 22 Jan 1999 09:29:53 -0800 (PST) Subject: Re: Pinguicula luscitanica and P. moranensis Hi David, > One of the things that's bothering me is that the plants are maybe 1 cm in > diameter. Is this the right size for luscitanica? They have never formed > winter buds (Should they?), and the leaves have always seemed to be very > curled. I've got mine under growlights and they are only about 1-2 cm in diameter as well with very curled leaves. They've produced flowers and seed which germinated quickly once planted, so I assume everything I'm doing must be right. I don't think they ever form winter resting buds, most growers treat them as annuals, although they supposedly will survive brief freezing. Happy growing, Chris ********************************** Chris Teichreb Department of Biological Sciences Simon Fraser University Burnaby, B.C. cjteichr@sfu.ca ********************************** ################### From: Chris Teichreb Date: Fri, 22 Jan 1999 11:47:46 -0800 (PST) Subject: VFT flower stalks Hi all, I recall a couple of years ago a brief discussion about whether or not flower stalks of VFT's could be used similar to leaf cuttings. Can someone point out when this was discussed (I can't seem to find it), or if someone wants to re-discuss what their experience's are, I'd appreciate it. TIA. Chris ********************************** Chris Teichreb Department of Biological Sciences Simon Fraser University Burnaby, B.C. cjteichr@sfu.ca ********************************** ################### From: Ide Laurent Date: Fri, 22 Jan 1999 21:28:44 +0100 Subject: Biggest or small droseras Hi list and Jan especially Thank you for having answered to my curiosity this time. Relax, I like small drosera's too. I grow about 30 pygmies, although I particularly appreciate the big ones, like ericksonae, scorpioides, pulchella... The smallest are not easy to observe, the interest is often in the flower scape, for my opinion. What I LOVE is to propagate them... Take care dear all Laurent ################### From: "Mark Pogany" Date: Fri, 22 Jan 1999 15:31:36 -0500 Subject: P. Moranensis overwintering David wrote: I also have a question about P. moranensis. I removed the pot from a tray of water maybe 1 to 2 months ago to try to induce winter dormancy. I have watered the pot occasionally, maybe once every 2 weeks for fear that the plants would dry out too much. They are still catching insects voraciously, and I'm concerned that I'm not giving them the winter dormancy they need. Any suggestions? Should I get tough! My experiences with P. moranensis is pretty straightforward. During the winter months my plants are kept OUT of the water trays, the medium being kept slightly damp. I think a good 'barometer' for judging this species is the size of the leaves being produced. If your plants are still producing larger 'summer' foliage and are catching prey than just keep the soil wet as usual. When the rosettes begin to tighten up and produce much smaller succulent growth than start holding back on the watering until the compost reaches a state JUST BARELY DAMP to the touch. As with all things in nature things don't always behave like the text books say. Last year my Mexican pings produced the trademark large leaves until the end of January then started on their winter rosettes in early February! Mark Pogany Cleveland, Ohio markp@en.com ################### From: "Chris Hind" Date: Fri, 22 Jan 1999 23:32:43 -0800 Subject: VFT flower stalks >From: Chris Teichreb >Subject: VFT flower stalks > >Hi all, > >I recall a couple of years ago a brief discussion about whether or >not flower stalks of VFT's could be used similar to leaf cuttings. Can >someone point out when this was discussed (I can't seem to find it), or if >someone wants to re-discuss what their experience's are, I'd appreciate >it. TIA. I dont know about using them similar to leaf cuttings but my friend Ivan was telling me about the cold trick where you lean the flower stalk against something cold like a window and a pup buds off the stem. ################### From: Dave Date: Fri, 22 Jan 99 22:15 EST Subject: Re: Repotting CP's Dear Ian, > Getting ready to repot plants - I want to put something in the bottom of > the pot to improve drainage and prevent the medium from slowly dribbling > out the holes in the bottom of the pot. Sphagnum moss works great! > I have lots of pots in which long-fibered sphagnum has been used, but it > can smell a bit mulchy as it breaks down in the bottom of the pot. Don't use so much, just enough to cover the holes in the bottom of the pot. The peat mix or the moss can both start to get funky from sitting in water all day. Sometimes water should be flushed through to pot (don't do this to seedlings!!!) and the water in the tray has to be changed. This will help keep you soil "fresh." > In the Home Depot today I saw a sack of horticultural charcoal sold for > just this purpose. Has anyone used this? I like the idea that the > filtering action of the charcoal will help to keep the medium "fresh", > but am worried about effects on ph or unforseen considerations..... > Thoughts? Yes, I think you are the right track, here. Charcoal has not harmed my plants, and it also seems to help airate the soil, similar to how perlite does this... It's good for Nepenthes soil's, at least for most of the common mid-highland to low-land species. I don't know how (if) beneficial it is for Sarracenia though. Dave Evans ################### From: JWi5770869@aol.com Date: Sat, 23 Jan 1999 07:23:59 EST Subject: Ping Lusitanica Dear All, >One of the things that's bothering me is that the plants are maybe 1 cm in diameter. Is this the right size for luscitanica? They have never formed winter buds (Should they?), and the leaves have always seemed to be very curled. As stated by others, this seems to be about the right size. I can't comment on the growlights, as I've always grown mine in my cool greenhouse and 'let nature take its course'....however.... What I would advise is that you make sure that you obtain some seed from your plants. Slack observed that the plant was a 'short lived perrenial' and this does appear to be the case. I've never had any of my plants living longer than 2 years and as I , this year want to start growing it again, I've got to look for some seed for it myself. Does anybody know of any sellers of this seed ,apart from Allen Lowrie? All the best John Wilden Southport Lancs. UK ################### From: aquilla2@juno.com Date: Sat, 23 Jan 1999 07:55:55 -0800 Subject: Welcome Phil Welcome Phil, I was wondering when you would join this community. Will be looking forward to your remarks and input to this forum. Michael A Sankovich York, PA >Topic No. 7 > >Date: Fri, 22 Jan 1999 12:08:09 -0800 >From: Phil Sheridan >To: cp@opus.hpl.hp.com >Subject: subscribe >Message-ID: <36A8DAA9.4E1D@pitcherplant.org> > >subscribe > >------------------------------ ################### From: takaicp@sh0.po.iijnet.or.jp Date: Sun, 24 Jan 1999 00:43:58 +0900 (JST) Subject: Re: Utricularia pollination and in-vitro propagation Dear Jan-san and Loyd-san, Jan-san, Thank you very much for the infomation. > > Please contact me directly. > The small talk above may be of interest for a few others on this list, > so I posted it here. The rest of the listeners are (like always) free > to make full use of their delete keys. No problem. As you know,I can not catch up with the progress speed of the conversation on this list. And also, I wanted to suppress to make this list dirty with my terrible English to the minimum. Loyd-san Jan-san, > > There are other > > reports of in-vitro plants 'going wrong' in the UK - > > Pinguicula which constantly divide but never flower, others > > which do not know what time of year it is and form winter > > rosettes in mid summer. > > This is entirely normal in vitro. > > >. I would be interested to know > > whether these observations are purely anecdotal or whether > > in-vitro cultivation can lead to subsequent problems when > > the plants are unflasked. > > Both legend and truth seem to be involved here. The such problem occurs to the other plant. For example, Cut Gerberas The experienced tissue culture company which produces Cut Gerberas always pays the such problem an attention. They become careful when extraordinarily well propagating clone emerges in vitro. It often becomes like Peter Pan Heliamphora which you described. Then, it constantly divides but never flower like Pinguicula which you described. The experienced company deletes such clone before sale. I don't know whether or not the phenomenon is gene mutation by in-vitro propagation. It may be that the phenomenon causes by operating the gene which is usually sleeping. To make the operation of the gene sleep, some stimulation may be necessary. Cut Gerbera farmers which bought such plants tries to solve the problem in following method. They choose one grown-up point in the plant which repeats division. They remove the other grown-up points. For a while, they repeat the operation. When the plant begins to produce flowers normally, they stop the operation. After that, they maintain several grown-up points like the normal other plants. I have seen Peter Pan Sarracenia seedlings (not from in-vitro). The method of Cut Gerbera farmers was effective. In any case, All of the seeds which collected from one pod aren't always sound. Very weak clone may survive by In-vitro culture. It might be dead when it was sown on soil. The bud mutation which is found out in the large breeding field occurs in the flasks in our kitchen labo. I love In-vitro propagation. But also, I think that the propagation by the seed is important, too. Then, I want huge numbers of clones(genetic variability) to continue to survive in thier native habitats. Kindest regards Isao ################### From: Dionaea@aol.com Date: Sat, 23 Jan 1999 10:54:11 EST Subject: Byblis (Should CP database be adjusted?) I recently asked if anyone knew more information about Byblis filifolia, aquatica and rorida. I came across the following recent Literature Review by Barry on an article about the taxonomic revision of the Genus Byblis (CPN 27:3, p. 76). The article states the following about the newly described species (and their former designations): B. filifolia = B. liniflora sp. occidentalis = B. aff. "Kunnunurra' B. aquatica = B. aff. "Darwin" B. rorida = ? So, here is my question to Rick. Should the CP database be adjusted to reflect this? The entry for B. liniflora ssp. occidentalis shows pictures of B. aff. "Kununurra" and B. aff "Darwin" which are really B. filifolia and B. aquatica, respectively. If the revision is accepted (and it appears it has) then the entry (and photos) for B. liniflora ssp. occidentalis is misleading. Christoph ################### From: Cwmonarch@aol.com Date: Sat, 23 Jan 1999 21:10:42 EST Subject: VFT & Dried Flies Today I went and purchased a small bottle of dried flies at the local pet store with the idea of feeding them to my VFT's. Of course the traps closed after teasing them with the bug however, they are reopening rather than forming a seal around the insect. Why is this? How can I inspire my plants that they have a real meal and trigger them to digest? Thanks ################### From: "tierney wayne" Date: Sat, 23 Jan 1999 19:18:17 PST Subject: _S. psittacina_ problem Hi everyone, I have a problem I'm hoping someone can help me with; I've never found a reference to it in any literature. I've had a S. psittacina plant for several years, and it was growing fine until last spring. Then, it didn't produce any normal traps, just these long thin upright leaves with little nodules at the end which never opened into a trap. They were very weak and would pull right off. By the end of the summer I had gotten frustrated with it and I cut off all the growth, but it grew back just the same. I'm hoping to figure out what caused this before I run into this problem this spring! Oh, I also have an S. purpurea which is doing the same sort of thing to a lesser degree, also producing normal traps. These plants are in different places but both receive good sun, so I don't think it's a problem with the light, and I've never observed any insect pests. I'm worried that it's a virus. If anyone has any ideas or has had the same experience, I would love to hear about it! Thanks, Tierney ################### From: "Carl Strohmenger (HSC)" Date: Sat, 23 Jan 1999 22:13:36 -0500 (EST) Subject: Re: VFT & Dried Flies The dried flies probably do not yield any liquid when the trap closes on them. The *fly juice* might be necessary for the enzyme chemistry to be activated on the surface of the trap face. Try soaking the dried flies in a little warm water for 30 minutes before dropping into the trap. I saw the same lack of interest when I tried to feed dried miniature shrimp (fish food) to my VFTs. It was much easier to just put the plants in an outdoor environment and let them catch their own food. - Carl On Sat, 23 Jan 1999 Cwmonarch@aol.com wrote: > Today I went and purchased a small bottle of dried flies at the local pet > store with the idea of feeding them to my VFT's. Of course the traps closed > after teasing them with the bug however, they are reopening rather than > forming a seal around the insect. Why is this? How can I inspire my plants > that they have a real meal and trigger them to digest? > > Thanks > ################### From: "Poh Jonathan" Date: Sat, 23 Jan 1999 22:26:08 PST Subject: Drosphyllum seeds! Hi, I'm Jonathan Poh and I will like to know whether there is anyone who is kind enough to trade or give some drosphyllum seeds to me! Thank you! I will also like to find a person that is range between age 14-16 to talk abt Cps. Hope to hear frm anyone! Lots of love Jonathan Poh ################### From: Rand Nicholson Date: Sun, 24 Jan 1999 07:18:49 -0400 Subject: Re: VFT & Dried Flies >Today I went and purchased a small bottle of dried flies at the local pet >store with the idea of feeding them to my VFT's. Of course the traps closed >after teasing them with the bug however, they are reopening rather than >forming a seal around the insect. Why is this? How can I inspire my plants >that they have a real meal and trigger them to digest? > >Thanks VFTs are used to forming seals areound trapped live and _struggling_ insects. If you feel that you have to feed them, and it is not necessary to feed them over the winter if you put them out doors for the summer, you will have to wiggle the dried insect around for a while at the end of a pin to get the traps to close. The traps could also be overstimulated, if they are being fed a lot. Kind Regards, Rand Rand Nicholson New Brunswick The Great White Frozen North ################### From: Rand Nicholson Date: Sun, 24 Jan 1999 07:18:47 -0400 Subject: Re: _S. psittacina_ problem Hi Tierney: Are you giving these plants a proper _cold_ dormancy? >Hi everyone, >I have a problem I'm hoping someone can help me with; I've never found a >reference to it in any literature. I've had a S. psittacina plant for >several years, and it was growing fine until last spring. Then, it >didn't produce any normal traps, just these long thin upright leaves >with little nodules at the end which never opened into a trap. They were >very weak and would pull right off. By the end of the summer I had >gotten frustrated with it and I cut off all the growth, but it grew back >just the same. I'm hoping to figure out what caused this before I run >into this problem this spring! >Oh, I also have an S. purpurea which is doing the same sort of thing to >a lesser degree, also producing normal traps. These plants are in >different places but both receive good sun, so I don't think it's a >problem with the light, and I've never observed any insect pests. I'm >worried that it's a virus. >If anyone has any ideas or has had the same experience, I would love to >hear about it! >Thanks, >Tierney Rand Rand Nicholson New Brunswick The Great White Frozen North ################### From: JWi5770869@aol.com Date: Sun, 24 Jan 1999 07:19:06 EST Subject: VFT & Dried flies You wrote, >he dried flies probably do not yield any liquid when the trap closes on them. The *fly juice* might be necessary for the enzyme chemistry to be activated on the surface of the trap face. Try soaking the dried flies in a little warm water for 30 minutes before dropping into the trap. I saw the same lack of interest when I tried to feed dried miniature shrimp (fish food) to my VFTs. It was much easier to just put the plants in an outdoor environment and let them catch their own food. - Carl The traps don't respond because the 'captured' prey (dried shrimp /fly ) doesn't move once captured. This is actually a good housekeeping measure on the part of the VFT ,as in the wild,any debris which would trigger the trap to close would not keep the trap closed for a great length of time (so wasting the traps efficiency). Because your flies/ shrimps do not move, the VFT 'thinks' it's caught a leaf or a twig and so resets the traps to await the real thing. I have heard that GENTLY squeezing the traps after its closed around the dried prey will stimulate the trap to remain closed and to digest. However, I wonder exactly how much nutrition is actually in a dried fly (bit of a waste of time feeding them) and wether you should be feeding them when the plants should be in dormancy. All the best John Wilden Southport Lancs. UK ################### From: Paul Temple Date: Sun, 24 Jan 1999 16:27:49 +0000 Subject: Re: P. Moranensis overwintering Regarding the query on inducing dormancy in P. moranensis (from David I think?): >I also have a question about P. moranensis. I removed the pot from a tray >of water maybe 1 to 2 months ago to try to induce winter dormancy. I have >watered the pot occasionally, maybe once every 2 weeks for fear that the >plants would dry out too much. They are still catching insects voraciously, >and I'm concerned that I'm not giving them the winter dormancy they need. >Any suggestions? Should I get tough! OK. P. moranensis is a large group of plants all belonging to a single species but showing a very wide range of variations. If you compared two types that were most unalike (at extreme opposite ends of the variations) then you could be forgiven for thinking them different species, even botanists do this. However, there are intermediates between all the types and no distinguishing features that do not show variation so separation into any subspecies, varieties, forms or otherwise are impossible. They are all one species (actually a "complex", but still a single species). Why have I bothered saying this? Because the variation is important. There are many many different plants that are still part of the P. moranensis complex. And they not only differ to different degrees in how they look but also occur in widely differing locations spread over a relatively large geographical area. So the plants differ and this includes differences in how they grow and in what conditions they need. (The first two P. moranensis plants that were widely cultivated were P. moranensis types invalidly called P. caudata and P. mexicana. They are entirely different in winter, one having a neat semi-dormant rosette much smaller than its summer form and the other being a tangled mass of leaves that differ from the summer form only because the plant divides in winter and so there are more leaves fighting for space.) So, some P. moranensis plants will not withstand extended exposure to temperatures below 10 degrees celcius while other P. moranensis plants are quite happy (if kept dry) at about 3 or 4 degrees celcius. It all depends where the plant came from (or where its parents plant originally came from). And this means that forcing or trying to force a P. moranensis plant into dormancy can be fatal. If your plant is a variation that comes from an area that is constantly warm rather than cold and/or generally damp rather than seasonally dry, it is not likely to be adapted for dormancy. Any attempt to encourage dormancy by lowering temperatures or reducing water may rob the plant of its requirements. Typically, pinguicul plants die by changing colour to a sickly green that's impossible to describe but just about every Ping grower knows when they see it. It just looks wrong. Unfortunately, in almost all cases once you see this colour the plant is stressed beyond any rescue attempts. It's dead and all you are watching are the final death twitches! What can you do? If you have a P. moranensis and don't know if it requires dormancy, do as follows. Keep the plant slightly drier than usual but not dry. Drop temperatures to about a 10 degree celcius level ideally all day and night but certainly at night. Reduce lighting to be no more than 8 hours a day, a little less if possible (7 or 7.5). Then watch your plant. If it is able to be dormant, the leaves will change and become more of a well ordered rosette, often of rather small succulent (fat) leaves. The plant may even form a rosette that withdraws underground but certainly most will hug the ground. The leaves will also be dry to the touch. Such plants can be kept much drier until the leaves suddenly start to grow, which you will see starting at the rosette centre as new leaves obviously grow outward and are clearly going to be larger than the rosette from the moment you first see them. If a plant retains sticky leaves and the leaves do not change in shape or size, the plant is unlikely to require dormancy and may be killed by attempts to induce it. So don't. Hope this helps. Regards Paul ################### From: Phil Wilson Date: Sun, 24 Jan 1999 10:57:37 +0000 Subject: Re: Pinguicula luscitanica and P. moranensis David, It sounds like you are growing P. lusitanica just fine! >I thought I would talk about my experiences with P. luscitanica to find out >if I'm growing this species properly. Somewhere between 1 and 2 years ago, >I planted seed on a mix of 1 part sand and 1 part milled sphagnum peat moss. >They have since germinated, and flowered last summer having spent their >entire life under fluorescent lights. I've kept them in the basement so >they've never experienced our long, hot summers. Right now days are usually >in the 70's to occasionally 80's (F) and nights are in the 50's to >occasionally 60's now that they are in an enclosed grow room for the winter >that has plastic on 2 walls separating the grow room from outdoor weather. > >One of the things that's bothering me is that the plants are maybe 1 cm in 1 cm diameter is about the right size. >diameter. Is this the right size for luscitanica? They have never formed No, they do not form winter buds. >winter buds (Should they?), and the leaves have always seemed to be very >curled. > This is normal. You do not mention if the plants have flowered. >I also have a question about P. moranensis. I removed the pot from a tray >of water maybe 1 to 2 months ago to try to induce winter dormancy. I have >watered the pot occasionally, maybe once every 2 weeks for fear that the >plants would dry out too much. They are still catching insects voraciously, >and I'm concerned that I'm not giving them the winter dormancy they need. >Any suggestions? Should I get tough! > Try allowing the pot to dry out. If you are growing under lights allow the photoperiod to drop to around nine hours per day. Regards, Phil Wilson Email: cp@pwilson.demon.co.uk Web Site: www.pwilson.demon.co.uk ################### From: ricell@juno.com Date: Sun, 24 Jan 1999 09:58:07 -0700 Subject: Mechanical vs Chemical stimuli - was VFT & Dried flies In regards to the question about why a VFT would reject a dried fly, Rand (I think) replied that wetting the fly to get its "juices" up would help, whereas John suggested that VFTs require movement to get the VFT to commence digestion. This brings up the question of whether or not the feeding response of a VFT is triggered by a mechanical or chemical stimulus. Clearly the trigger for the trap to close is mechanical (under normal circumstances) but I have wondered if mechanical stimulus was relevant to trigger the digestive process. In my own experience, I have had VFTs reject dry items but not wet ones (in both cases without mechanical stimulation after the trap has closed) so my personal suspicion is that the feeding response is a chemical stimulus. I suspect that most attempts to mechanically stimulate the trap after closure serve to increase contact of the lobes of the trap to the prey item, thus producing the necessary chemical trigger. Under natural circumstances I suspect a struggling insect will likely defecate while it is being crushed to death and the movement of the insect will increase surface contact of the lobes of the trap to the necessary chemical stimulus. But this all just conjecture on my part. Does anyone know if this has been studied or have an relevant data? Rich Ellis, Boulder, CO "ricell@juno.com" http://www.geocities.com/RainForest/Vines/8564/ ################### From: Rand Nicholson Date: Sun, 24 Jan 1999 17:15:41 -0400 Subject: Re: Mechanical vs Chemical stimuli - was VFT & Dried flies >In regards to the question about why a VFT would reject a dried fly, Rand >(I think) replied that wetting the fly to get its "juices" up would help, >whereas John suggested that VFTs require movement to get the VFT to >commence digestion. Nope! I suggested that the trap would not form a seal unless there was movement in the trap. I do not think that something has to be wet, or have juices, for the trap to close and "lock". >This brings up the question of whether or not the feeding response of a >VFT is triggered by a mechanical or chemical stimulus. Clearly the >trigger for the trap to close is mechanical (under normal circumstances) >but I have wondered if mechanical stimulus was relevant to trigger the >digestive process. Yes, it is. "Trigger hairs". The VFT operates biomechanically, according to my information. Kind Regards, Rand Rand Nicholson New Brunswick The Great White Frozen North ################### From: CALIFCARN@aol.com Date: Sun, 24 Jan 1999 19:24:03 EST Subject: Re: A request from Moscow Greetings folks, Peter here at California Carnivores! Whoops! I neglected to mention a radio interview I was to do this morning (Sunday) on KIRO in Seattle. Well, I did it and had a lot of fun; the interviewer kept me on longer cause of a lot of questions from the listeners. Ciscoe Morris, the host, has invited me up to Seattle to do another show (this one was done by phone), and I told him if I get to Seattle this summer (as I keep promising friends up there I will do), I would take him up on it. I promise to let ya'll know if I do. I had completely forgotten about the interview until 10 minutes before show time! I have received a request from Prof. Alexander B. Doweld at the National Institute of Carpology in Moscow. He is studying fruit and seed of Byblis for the 6th volume of Anatomia Semimum Comparativa, an encyclodeia. He is requesting a few seed and dried, empty seed pods of Byblis species other than B. liniflora. If you can help him, his email address is mts6@mts6.mmtel.msk.su. His address in Moscow will be given to you. His fax number is 7 (095) 925-86-07. His secretary is Anna Pavlova. Welcome to Phil Sheridan! Let's talk Sarracenia! Th-th-th-th-th-that's all, folks! Peter D'Amato ################### From: "TED HADLEY" Date: Sun, 24 Jan 1999 18:08:59 -0800 Subject: Re: Help! Foam turned to goo! Hi All, Thanks much for your advice about how to get the foam, glue, and goo cleaned up. Here is what I ended up doing: 1. mineral spirit paint thinner. No effect. 2. Acetone + lots of rubbing. Works, but only barely. Then I sent a request the The Gemmary's forum, where you all kindly offered some ideas. 1. Try xylene. I didn't have any, but I did have toluene, which is a comparable solvent. This had an odd effect. While it did not remove anything (in fact had no noticeable effect), it DID make the residual glue much less sticky. 2. Paint stripper. All I had was Jasco Paint Remover, which is primarly methylene chloride, a nasty solvent which almost dissolves wood. :-( So, I used some Home Depot lacquer thinner that was sitting around. According to the label, it is methyl ethyl ketone, methanol, and toluene. This stuff was, as one would expect, somewhat a cross between the acetone (which is actually dimethyl ketone) and the toluene. Little obvious removal, but continued to make the residue even less sticky. 3. Freezing combined with steel wool. Well, now that the toluene was removing all of the "sticky" from the glue, I just tried the steel wool directly, without freezing. This worked great. Almost all of the glue and goo is now gone. Thanks much for your suggestions. I will keep them all in mind should the problem arise again. Take care, tedh. -------- Ted A. Hadley, Senior Mineralogist hadleyt@usa.net Mineralogical Investigation Services Sunnyvale, CA 94087 USA ################### From: "Scott Mcphee" Date: Sun, 24 Jan 1999 18:41:25 -0800 Subject: THRIPS!!!! I just discovered that I have a small Thrips infestation on my two Nepenthes. I have some Schultz pyrethrin spray which is labeled for use on Thrips. Will this be ok to use on the Nepenthes? I use it with good results on my orchids. Please reply promptly to prevent further spread!! Scott Mcphee Northern Cal. ################### From: "Mellard, David" Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1999 08:55:23 -0500 Subject: RE: P. Moranensis overwintering Hi Paul, > Typically, pinguicul plants die by changing colour to a sickly green that's impossible to describe but just >about every Ping grower knows when they see it. It just looks wrong. >Unfortunately, in almost all cases once you see this colour the plant is stressed >beyond any rescue attempts. It's dead and all you are watching are the final >death twitches! I noticed the sickly green color on one leaf over the weekend. There's probably 8 to 12 leaves, and it appears to be multiple plants growing very close together but I'll have to check that to be sure. Thanks for the tips about moranensis culture. I'll follow them and we'll see what happens. David Atlanta ################### From: Mike Vogl Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1999 09:08:33 +0000 Subject: slime on Roridula seeds A few weeks ago I recieved some Roridula dentata seeds. I soaked them in water and then sowed them in a simple peat:sand mix. After soaking them, I noticed that they appeared "fuzzy", as if they were covered by tiny hairs. Now, a few weeks later, the seeds are covered by a thick slime. It is not fungus or algae; the material is not on the soil and does not rub off on my fingers. Likewise, the seeds do not seem to be rotten or soft; they look like they are still viable. So my question: what is this stuff? My observation would be that it seems to be a product of the seeds themselves, as opposed to some sort of pathogen. Do Roridula produce herbicidal chemicals to reduce competition (like Drosophyllum)? Might they be carnivorous (like the seeds of Shepherd's purse)? Any other suggestions? ################### From: "John H. Phillips III" Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1999 09:37:14 +0800 Subject: Nepenthes and Hard Water I've heard that Nepenthes are not as choosy about the softness of their water, but has anyone on the list actually tried using hard water for an extended length of time, or know anyone who has? And how did the Nepenthes fair? Thanx in advance, John H. Phillips III e-mail:phillips@library.ucsf.edu Interlibrary Loan Rm 202 Health Sciences Library University of California 530 Parnassus Ave San Francisco, CA 94143-0840 PH: (415) 476-8383 FAX: (415) 476-7940 ################### From: "Carl Strohmenger (HSC)" Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1999 13:06:45 -0500 (EST) Subject: Re: Nepenthes and Hard Water I routinely use city tap water on all my yard plants including Nepenthes. No ill effects so far (2-years). - Carl On Mon, 25 Jan 1999, John H. Phillips III wrote: > I've heard that Nepenthes are not as choosy about the softness of > their water, but has anyone on the list actually tried using hard > water for an extended length of time, or know anyone who has? And how > did the Nepenthes fair? Thanx in advance, > > John H. Phillips III e-mail:phillips@library.ucsf.edu Interlibrary > Loan Rm 202 Health Sciences Library University of California 530 > Parnassus Ave San Francisco, CA 94143-0840 PH: (415) 476-8383 FAX: > (415) 476-7940 > ################### From: Chris Teichreb Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1999 10:36:14 -0800 (PST) Subject: Re: Nepenthes and Hard Water Hi John, I used very hard water (from the prairies) on N.alata for about a year with no ill effects. Of course, N.alata is pretty robust so I'd be careful about what plant you decide to use it on. Related to this, I've watered many cp with hard water, especially in summer when water demands are high, with no apparent ill effects after several years. In the fall, I just made sure to flush out the pots thoroughly with distilled water. Sarrs, Drosera, Pings, all were fine. Chris On Mon, 25 Jan 1999, John H. Phillips III wrote: > I've heard that Nepenthes are not as choosy about the softness of > their water, but has anyone on the list actually tried using hard > water for an extended length of time, or know anyone who has? And how > did the Nepenthes fair? Thanx in advance, > > John H. Phillips III e-mail:phillips@library.ucsf.edu Interlibrary > Loan Rm 202 Health Sciences Library University of California 530 > Parnassus Ave San Francisco, CA 94143-0840 PH: (415) 476-8383 FAX: > (415) 476-7940 > ********************************** Chris Teichreb Department of Biological Sciences Simon Fraser University Burnaby, B.C. cjteichr@sfu.ca ********************************** ################### From: Sean Barry Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1999 12:00:21 -0800 (PST) Subject: Re: Nepenthes and Hard Water On Mon, 25 Jan 1999, Carl Strohmenger (HSC) wrote: > I routinely use city tap water on all my yard plants including Nepenthes. > No ill effects so far (2-years). Different cities have vastly different water. San Francisco's water, which is snow-melt from Hetch-Hetchy reservoir in the Tuolumne River canyon of the Sierra Nevada, is quite soft and probably entirely suited for all but the delicately picky (about water) plants. Travel a few miles to Fremont or any of the East Bay cities that obtain their water from wells, and the story is very different--that water is generally grossly hard (to 28ppm dissolved solids and even much higher in some locales) and is also often laced with elements that in moderate concentrations are quite phytotoxic. A good northern California example of that is boron. That water isn't really suitable for any plant. It's best to form absolutely no generalities about municipal water--some are as good as they get, others are worse than terrible. Test it, and use it if it's OK, don't if it's not, no matter what you've heard. Sean Barry ################### From: Dave Date: Mon, 25 Jan 99 23:58 EST Subject: Re: Re: VFT & Dried Flies Hi Rand, > VFTs are used to forming seals areound trapped live and _struggling_ > insects. Yes. But it has been my experience that both moisture and movement count for getting the VFT to digest pre-killed food. > If you feel that you have to feed them, and it is not necessary > to feed them over the winter if you put them out doors for the summer, you > will have to wiggle the dried insect around for a while at the end of a pin > to get the traps to close. The VFT I had outside (now inside) have already woke up and think it's spring. They are growing new leaves and traps. Even the remaining traps from last year have become able to trap and digest again. They are also growing flowers and I think feeding them now even though it's still winter is a good idea. > The traps could also be overstimulated, if they > are being fed a lot. I agree with Rand: You doen't really need to feed the plants much. I think four or five good 'meals' would be enough food for a year. And even indoor plants should be able to catch this much, unless they are inside sealed terrariums. Dave Evans ################### From: Steve Woodward Date: Tue, 26 Jan 1999 12:40:03 -0500 (EST) Subject: Introduction Hi: I registered with this network last week, and have already found many of the messages useful! I've been working with carnivorous plants for the last 12 years, since I was given two Heliamphora nutans plants from Oxford Botanic Gardens to get them into tissue culture. Things grew rather rapidly from there, and I have a large collection, which includes all recognised species of Sarracenia plus many hybrids, Heliamphora nutans, Darlingtonia, Cephalotus, several Nepenthes and Pinguicula, lots of different Drosera, Drosophyllum, Byblis, Catopsis. Of course, I also have the (ever-present) Venus fly trap too. A good range of species, in fact. And yes, most do survive our northerly latitudes rather well, either in a heated glasshouse (winter min. approx. 6 C), or in an unheated polytunnel. I continued my work with tissue culture of CPs when I moved up to Aberdeen, setting up a laboratory at home, but its getting a bit much for me to give the lab. the attention it deserves, hence the following message sent into the cp-tissue-culture digest last week. I hope this isn't considered an inappropriate use of the network, but heregoes: 'Is anyone in the UK or elsewhere in Europe interested in purchasing a full micropropagation facility for carnivorous plants, including lighting rig with 5 shelves (total = 7 square metres of space), 1.8m laminar flow cabinet, cultures of about 80 species/varieties of CPs, balances, lots of 450g jars with plastic and metal lids, baby food jars. Several orders are 'on the go'. I can sell off cultures individually, and could sell the equipment separately, but I would prefer to sell the whole unit as a going concern. With a baby, various other species of animal demanding my attention and a huge vegetable garden, I can't give the CPs the attention they deserve. I would just maintain my glasshouse and outdoor collection for my own pleasure. Steve Woodward PS The CPs are nothing to do with my University position (address below) - my tissue culture lab. is at home.' Any interest amongst users of this site? It is a small commercial concern, with equipment valued at about [Sterling] 1850 pounds, and thousands of plants in culture. There are also several orders awaiting completion. I'm convinced there is a reasonable living to be made by someone with more time to spare than me! Steve Woodward ---------------------- Dr. Steve Woodward University of Aberdeen Department of Forestry MacRobert Building 581 King Street Aberdeen AB24 5UA Scotland UK Tel: +44 (0)1224 272669 Fax: +44 (0)1224 272685 s.woodward@abdn.ac.uk http://www.abdn.ac.uk/forestry/staff/sw.htm ################### From: "NEIL ARMSTRONG" Date: Tue, 26 Jan 1999 16:11:39 -0000 Subject: RE VFT & Dried Flies The VFT's trap mechanism is very much afected by temperature and during the winter the closure rate is much reduced. However as the plant is just about inactive (and there's no flies anyway) it does'nt really matter. I agree that trying to feed during the winter is not a good Idea. There has been loads of research done (by Lloyd, Darwin, Hooker etc) into what causes the trap closure, but it's generally accepted to be a combination of temperature, continual struggle by the insect & chemicals in the insects body that trigger the release of the enzymes. Check out "Carnivorous Plants" by F.E. Lloyd, you may have trouble finding the original 1942 copy (it took me three years!) but it was republished in 1976 and should be in most librarys. Cheers! Neil. ################### From: Dionaea@aol.com Date: Tue, 26 Jan 1999 13:54:02 EST Subject: Lowrie's Vol. 3 is now available For those eagerly awaiting Lowire's 3rd volume, it is now available. I just received my copy today in the mail. If you ordered yours it should be on it's way. The photographs are great -- in the style of his first two books. Several species did not make it into this book because they were, according to the preface, described after the book was completed. Regardless, this book has many helpful descriptions of many other species. Hats off to Allen Lowrie. Christoph ################### From: drury6@juno.com Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1999 10:01:24 -0600 Subject: P. primulifolia pollination & feeding of cp's I would like to know the proper way to pollenate my Pings., my P. Primulifolia has bloomed two blooms and I use a smal, clean paintbrush to pollenate the flowers one bloom dropped of a few days later, has it been pollenated? Did I do something wrong? btw, I feed all my plants freeze dried bloodworms. they dissolve quickly and seem to be somewhat steril. ################### From: "Christensen" Date: Sun, 24 Jan 1999 01:39:34 -0700 Subject: can ozone affect seed germination? I'm trying to germinate some Utric seeds in a terrarium. Humidity: varies between 60-80 percent. Temperature: varies between 35-18 Celcius. Photoperiod: 10 hours of light, two 33 watt bulbs, 5cm from source. I've waited about a month and haven't seen any germination. I wonder, can ozone affect seed germination? The fan inside my terrarium circulates the air very well. However, when I remove the terrarium lid I can smell ozone. I guess, the fan uses brushes. It uses 120VAC. Once, I though I saw damp-off fungus attacking my Utric seeds. Now, I'm not sure if it is there or gone. The same fungus ruined most of my Sarracenia seeds. The attack on my Sarra seeds happened so fast it appeared to come from some flower debris that was with the seeds. I bought a systemic fungicide to use if damp-off appears, again in my Utric seeds and my new Sarra seeds. I sterilized my soil in a microwave, with some water. Maybe, my Utric seeds need some warm and real sunlight. I am using the tray method to water them and I am spraying them with 'clean' water about 1 or 2 times per day. I must admit, some days I forget to do that. The water level is usually less than 4cm below soil level. ################### From: "Christensen" Date: Tue, 26 Jan 1999 21:16:39 -0700 Subject: I prefer an upright Drosophyllum. Does an upright Drosophyllum exist? Maybe, there's a cultivar or a location where an upright plant grows. I read in THE SAVAGE GARDEN about Drosophyllum and its scrambling habit. I thought to myself 'I would like to have a Drosophyllum plant but scramblers can be difficult to handle'. An extreme example is the Pothos plant. It grows runners several feet long and can be a nuisance to move. A solution is staking the plant or wrap it around something that its roots will penetrate. I tried both of those solutions and the wooden stakes rotted. A simple solution is to 'prune' the plant before moving it. I don't like to do that. I know, it is 'only a plant' but I don't like doing that to a Pothos, anyway. I DO NOT hate scramblers. However, they have a tendency to borrow growing space from neighbor plants. Already, my plants don't have an abundance of growing room. I guess, scrambling habits help plants stay near the ground where humidity is slightly better. Chad. ################### From: Angie Nichols Date: Wed, 27 Jan 1999 05:02:58 -0800 Subject: (no subject) In the pet shop the other day I noticed the reptile/turtle food "musca larvae". Anyone know what particular varmit that is? I already feed my plants freeze dried insect larvae and was thinking of trying the musca larvae for variety. Angie Nichols, SC. ################### From: "Sam Vanderstraeten" Date: Wed, 27 Jan 1999 03:04:03 PST Subject: Ibicella lutea Hello, I'm 19 years old and I'm interested in Ibicella since I was 17. I've noticed that Ibicella isn't a carnivorous plant! Who can tell me why. I just want to know more about that wonderfull plant (and the way he isn't carnivorous... Thank you... Sam Vanderstraeten. ################### From: SCHLAUER@chemie.uni-wuerzburg.de Date: Wed, 27 Jan 1999 13:15:08 Subject: Re: Ibicella lutea Dear Sam, > I'm 19 years old and I'm interested in Ibicella since I was 17. > I've noticed that Ibicella isn't a carnivorous plant! Who can tell me > why. The question is rather why has this plant ever been suspected to be carnivorous. All speculations about the carnivory of _Ibicella_ or Martyniaceae can be traced back to a single experiment published very early this century by Mameli. The only substantial result of this experiment was that a piece of albumin (a protein contained in cheese etc.), which is initially a white or at least opaque substance, became transparent upon treatment with _Ibicella_. Unfortunately, it was appreciated only after these breathtaking experiments that this change in albumin "appeal" can be caused by various circumstances, of which digestion is only one. A piece of cheese will be "digested" in this way by several sticky plant surfaces (incl. _Roridula_). > I just want to know more about that wonderfull plant (and the way > he isn't carnivorous... It has only recently been tested by more rigorous methods whether _Ibicella_ is in fact able to digest proteins (i.e. to break them down by enzymatic hydrolysis), almost unanimously with negative results (CPN, in press). But if you remember the recent publications by Ellis & Midgley or Hartmeyer, you will see that the case may still not be entirely closed for sticky plants like _Ibicella_. If it can be shown that they live in a +/- obligate association with insects that perform the digestion, a sub-carnivorous mutualism could be assumed like in _Roridula_. If you add bacterial decomposition to the legitimate methods of cp digestion, you can call all sticky plants carnivorous. Kind regards Jan ################### From: "Marc I. Burack" Date: Wed, 27 Jan 1999 08:13:52 -0500 Subject: Re: (no subject) At 01:21 AM 1/27/99 -0800, you wrote: >In the pet shop the other day I noticed the reptile/turtle food "musca >larvae". Anyone know what particular varmit that is? I already feed my >plants freeze dried insect larvae and was thinking of trying the musca >larvae for variety. Angie Nichols, SC. Dear Angie, If memory serves me correctly....musca=fly. Marc I. Burack marcb@companionfinancial.com ################### From: Chris Teichreb Date: Wed, 27 Jan 1999 09:35:11 -0800 (PST) Subject: Re: (no subject) Hi Angie, Musca larvae is fly larvae. Yum! Your plants will love it. Chris On Wed, 27 Jan 1999, Angie Nichols wrote: > In the pet shop the other day I noticed the reptile/turtle food "musca > larvae". Anyone know what particular varmit that is? I already feed my > plants freeze dried insect larvae and was thinking of trying the musca > larvae for variety. Angie Nichols, SC. > ********************************** Chris Teichreb Department of Biological Sciences Simon Fraser University Burnaby, B.C. cjteichr@sfu.ca ********************************** ################### From: Chris Teichreb Date: Wed, 27 Jan 1999 09:39:52 -0800 (PST) Subject: Re: can ozone affect seed germination? Hi Chad, > I wonder, can ozone affect seed germination? > The fan inside my terrarium circulates the air very well. > However, when I remove the terrarium lid I can smell ozone. > I guess, the fan uses brushes. It uses 120VAC. I've never heard of a fan producing ozone, although I guess it's possible. Doesn't sound like that's your problem though. > > Once, I though I saw damp-off fungus attacking my Utric seeds. > Now, I'm not sure if it is there or gone. > The same fungus ruined most of my Sarracenia seeds. > The attack on my Sarra seeds happened so fast it appeared to > come from some flower debris that was with the seeds. > I bought a systemic fungicide to use if damp-off appears, again > in my Utric seeds and my new Sarra seeds. > I sterilized my soil in a microwave, with some water. > > Maybe, my Utric seeds need some warm and real sunlight. > I am using the tray method to water them and I am spraying them > with 'clean' water about 1 or 2 times per day. > I must admit, some days I forget to do that. > The water level is usually less than 4cm below soil level. Why they're not germinating depends a lot on what type of Utrics you're trying to germinate (aquatic, terrestrial, epiphytic, etc.). It sounds like the humidity and water levels are too high if you're getting damping off that quickly. In my terrariums, water level is never more than about 1-2 inches high, and the plants grow fine because the humidity around them is high enough. I don't have problems with fungus either. Warmth is definitely another consideration, but so is the type of Utric seed (ie: is it a temperate or tropical variety). Finally, newly germinated Utric is usually very small (except for some of the epiphytes), so it may be that it's there, just not noticeable. Happy growing, Chris ********************************** Chris Teichreb Department of Biological Sciences Simon Fraser University Burnaby, B.C. cjteichr@sfu.ca ********************************** ################### From: "Jure Slatner" Date: Wed, 27 Jan 1999 19:32:17 +0100 Subject: Toetmoelk Hi, Peter Cole recently wrote: >I just hope it's better than the Ta"tmio"lk I tried a couple of years ago. I'd like to know where, when and by who Toetmoelk or Ta"tmio"lk or Filmjo"lk was/is produced. There are tree different names probably from tree nations? What is the procedure to do it. Jure Slatner ################### From: Dave Date: Wed, 27 Jan 99 14:12 EST Subject: Re: P. primulifolia pollination & feeding of cp's Dear Don, > I would like to know the proper way to pollenate my Pings., my P. > Primulifolia has bloomed two blooms and I use a smal, clean paintbrush to > pollenate the flowers one bloom dropped of a few days later, has it been > pollenated? Did I do something wrong? You cab tell if the pollination was successful when the ovary starts to swell as the seeds grow inside it. If the flower stalk dies with the flower then no seeds will grow. Dave Evans ################### From: Rick Walker Date: Wed, 27 Jan 1999 11:55:13 -0800 Subject: Re: P. primulifolia pollination > drury6@juno.com writes: > I would like to know the proper way to pollenate my Pings., my P. > Primulifolia has bloomed two blooms and I use a smal, clean paintbrush > to pollenate the flowers one bloom dropped of a few days later, has it > been pollenated? Did I do something wrong? The Ping Slide Show at: http://www.hpl.hp.com/botany/public_html/cp/slides/pings/pings.htm has a detailed drawing of ping flower parts explaining how to pollenate these flowers. Best regards, -- Rick Walker ################### From: "Christensen" Date: Wed, 27 Jan 1999 15:12:04 -0700 Subject: Re: can ozone affect seed germination? If the fan uses brushes, then there are sparks and those make ozone. I imagine there are several ways to design an AC fan/motor but I thought DC motors used brushes, sometimes. I've noticed a kind of wax on the fan when it runs for a while- maybe that's the source of the smell. I haven't seen any fungus recently- false alarm? This is what I'm trying to germinate: U. menziesii Albany, W.A. U. gibba N.S.W. U. tridentata El Pinar, Uruguay Sometimes, you can peek through a vent in your 120VAC drill gun and see several tiny sparks. ################### From: "Christensen" Date: Wed, 27 Jan 1999 14:44:11 -0700 Subject: Ping growing in mossy patches on glaciers? In THE SAVAGE GARDEN, on page 192, at the end of the third paragraph Mr. D'Amato writes '... a newly identified species (unnamed at this writing) has been found growing in mossy patches on glaciers in the Arctic.' Anybody have more information about that? ################### From: "Fernando Rivadavia Lopes" Date: Wed, 27 Jan 1999 15:25:14 PST Subject: Back from Neblina! To all, First of all happy 1999 to everyone!! I've just returned from the wildest CP expedition I've ever been on. I spent nearly 6 weeks exploring around teh Amazon Basin in Northern Brazil with some friends. We also took a quick hop into Venezuela where we wanted to climb Mt.Roraima, but didn't have time. So we hung around the Gran Sabana -- which was not bad ta all: about 30 CP species!! The main objective of this trip was to reach the unreachable Mt.Neblina. It was extremely difficult, and for many days we thought we would never even be able to begin the expedition, much less reach the top. But in the end we made it -- don't try this at home, kids! CPs were not as common as we imagined up there and although we found some fantastic things, like H.tatei var.neblinae, we didn't find THE species that dragged me all the way up there: the magnificent D.meristocaulis. Anyways, I'll write more about this later to the listserv. I just wanted to say hello to everyone. And before anyone asks, sorry, but I do not cultivate CPs anymore and do NOT have any plants or seeds from this trip for trade or sale. But don't worry, most species will be made available through seed banks at first and later through tissue culture. So hold your horses..... OK, just to wet some appetites, here's the list of CPs seen on this trip. Mt.Neblina (Northwestern Amazonas state): D.roraimae (new subspecies?) D.sp. new (small rosettes, spatulate leaves, long scapes, white fls) H.tatei var.neblinae H.sp. new (small pitchers, small lids, coarse hairs in throat) U.alpina U.amethystina U.campbelliana U.humboldtii U.quelchii (pink fls) U.subulata Serra do Araca' (Northern Amazonas state): D.kaieteurensis D.roraimae U.amethystina U.pubescens (light purple-lilac fl) U.sandwithii(?) U.subulata U.sp. (affixed aquatic) U.sp. (in shady habitats with U.pubescens) Boa Vista area (Northern Roraima state): D.biflora(?) D.sessilifolia U.simulans/ or fimbriata Gran Sabana (Southern Bolivar state, Venezuela) Brocchinia reducta B.hectioides Catopsis berteroniana D.arenicola var.arenicola D.cayenensis D.communis D.felix D.intermedia D.roraimae G.filiformis G.guianensis (AMAZING!) G.repens H.heterodoxa U.amesthytina (white fls) U.calicyfida (red-veined leaf, no fls) U.cornuta/or juncea U.cucullata U.hispida U.pubescens (same as on Araca') U.pusilla U.sandwithii(?) U.schultesii(?) U.simulans/ or fimbriata U.subulata U.trichophylla U.triloba U.sp. (U.lloydii-like) U.sp. (U.lloydii-like, red calyx lobes) U.sp. (U.lloydii-like, giant) U.sp. (affixed aquatic) U.sp. (pygmy U.tricolor?) Well, I think that's it. More later! Best Wishes, Fernando Rivadavia Sao Paulo, Brazil ################### From: Brian D Quinn Date: Thu, 28 Jan 1999 12:40:52 +1300 Subject: Utricularia novae-zelandiae I have some fresh U. novae-zelandiae seed collected a few days ago and am willing to send seed to any interested parties. Just contact me privately with your current postal address if interested. U. novae-zelandiae is a pretty flowered terrestrial, perennial Utric that is very easy to grow and non-invasive.....well non-invasive when compared to something like U. bisquamata! ;-) Cheers, Brian D Quinn Grey Lynn Auckland, NZ coro63@ihug.co.nz ################### From: "Fernando Rivadavia Lopes" Date: Wed, 27 Jan 1999 15:44:42 PST Subject: VFT PIRANHA and Allen's volume 3 To all, Catching up on 6 weeks of old messages from the listserv, I saw that Allen Lowrie's 3rd volume is finally out! WOW! I can't believe it! Can you Jan? :):) I also noticed a discussion about the fantastic "piranha" VFT being developed by my good friends Ed Read and Ivan Snyder in L.A. The correct spelling in English is PIRANHA. The word originates from the TUPI Indian language (once widespread in Brazil) and means "toothed fish". This word was transliterated into the PORTUGUESE language. As some of you may know, the largest country in Latin America, Brazil, happened to be colonised by the PORTUGUESE and not the SPANISH, and thus that is why we speak PORTUGUESE in Brazil. The "nh" sound in PORTUGUESE is equivalent to the "~n" tilde sound of SPANISH. According to my English dictionary, it should be pronounced: "pi r\344n'ye" (the last 'e' is inverted, a sound as in "p'e'rhaps"). Hope this helps. Best Wishes to all, Fernando Rivadavia Sao Paulo, Brazil ################### From: "Richard Brown" Date: Wed, 27 Jan 1999 19:05:24 -0500 Subject: Re: Nepenthes and Hard Water >I've heard that Nepenthes are not as choosy about the softness of their >water, but has anyone on the list actually tried using hard water for >an extended length of time, or know anyone who has? And how did the >Nepenthes fair? Trent here in sunny south Florida. Clyde Bramblett, near Homestead, Florida, waters his Nepenthes with well water. Kendall/Homestead well water is about as limey as you can get! I'm surprised he doesn't have stalactites hanging from the pitchers! Everything seems happy, and has been for years. The amazing part is he uses the same well water on his Sarracenias, which luckily also get the benefits of growing outside--rain. The Nepenthes are in a greenhouse/lathe house, so only get the rainwater during the summer months. Personally, I use R.O. water on my Nepenthes. Trent Meeks Pompano Beach, Florida. ################### From: "Andreas Wistuba" Date: Thu, 28 Jan 1999 08:26:12 +0100 Subject: Back from Neblina! :-) Hi all, as Fernando pointed out the Neblina-trip was a great experience and a long-time dream coming true for all of us! I just received back my 53 rolls (!) of slide films and most of them (except the many slides with white birds on - hi Fernando...!) turned out quite well. Unfortunately Joe Nerz, Katrin Hinderhofer, Cristoph Scherber, Mauricio Piliackas and myself had to return to work after Neblina itself while Fernando, Gert Hoogenstrijd and Ed Read could continue to Venezuela. I should soon have pictures showing some of the CPs we've seen on my web page but will announce this as soon as I have made the scans and put them onto the page. Sorry to the people who wrote e-mails to me while I was in Brazil. I still did not answer all of them but I'm working hard. Thanks for your patience. Bye Andreas On 27 Jan 99, at 15:40, Fernando Rivadavia Lopes wrote: > > To all, > > > First of all happy 1999 to everyone!! I've just returned from > the wildest CP expedition I've ever been on. I spent nearly 6 weeks > exploring around teh Amazon Basin in Northern Brazil with some friends. We > also took a quick hop into Venezuela where we wanted to climb Mt.Roraima, > but didn't have time. So we hung around the Gran Sabana -- which was not > bad ta all: about 30 CP species!! > > The main objective of this trip was to reach the unreachable > Mt.Neblina. It was extremely difficult, and for many days we thought we > would never even be able to begin the expedition, much less reach the top. > But in the end we made it -- don't try this at home, kids! CPs were not as > common as we imagined up there and although we found some fantastic > things, like H.tatei var.neblinae, we didn't find THE species that dragged > me all the way up there: the magnificent D.meristocaulis. > ... Andreas Wistuba; Mudauer Ring 227; 68259 Mannheim; Germany Phone: +49-621-705471 Fax: +49-621-7152028 E-Mail: andreas@wistuba.com ################### From: "Sam Vanderstraeten" Date: Thu, 28 Jan 1999 00:52:22 PST Subject: RE: Ibicella lutea Dear Jan, First of all, thank you very much for your answer about Ibicella lutea, but there is something I want to tell you... I wrote already that I've been growing Ibicella for 3 years and I already know a bit about the way Ibicella lives. There is something that is strange to me... When I'm working in my greenhouse and I'm touching a carnivorous plant with enzymes (like Drosera and Pinguicula) than there appears (afer half an hour) red spots on my skin. I know for sure that the red spots are from the enzymes of my plants. The "strange" thing is that, when I touch an Ibicella, there also appears red spots on my skin... Aren't that "digesting" enzymes? I really believe what you wrote me, but that's something I still don't understand. Do you know how this is possible? Thanks in anticipation... Sam Vanderstraeten. ################### From: SCHLAUER@chemie.uni-wuerzburg.de Date: Thu, 28 Jan 1999 10:02:52 Subject: RE: Ibicella lutea Dear Sam, > When I'm working in my greenhouse and I'm touching a carnivorous plant > with enzymes (like Drosera and Pinguicula) than there appears (afer half > an hour) red spots on my skin. I know for sure that the red spots are > from the enzymes of my plants. How do you know that? Red spots on skin can be caused by a wide variety of substances, most of which are quite far away from being enzymes. > The "strange" thing is that, when I touch > an Ibicella, there also appears red spots on my skin... Aren't that > "digesting" enzymes? Not necessarily. Do you have plants that do not cause these spots (as a negative control)? How about _Roridula_? Kind regards Jan ################### From: "Sam Vanderstraeten" Date: Thu, 28 Jan 1999 01:12:29 PST Subject: Mailtje geven, mailtje krijgen Beste Proxifrans, Ik heb nog altijd niets van u gekregen... Ofwel heb je nog niets verstuurd, ofwel is jullie provider vreselijk traag! Toen ik je de eerste keer mailde, kreeg je de mail pas om 16 u. Maar ik ben zeker dat het aan jullie provider moet liggen, want al mijn andere mail (en dat is er al een pak) hab ik direct ontvangen! Als je tijd hebt, mail me dan eens terug... Tot vanavond! Sam ################### From: "~`~TomsRarePlants~`~" Date: Thu, 28 Jan 1999 05:51:05 -0000 Subject: D~ falconeri Hello, We sent out for seed now we found out that they dont have any seed until march or April . We regret that we will have to wait I was hoping to get this seed . We will be geting these seeds in march. D~arcturi D~capilaris liberty co, fl D~falconeri D~ lineris D~regia ibicella Nepenthes Lavicola Nepenthes macfarlanei Nepenthes macrovulgaris Best Wishes, Laura ################### From: "Fernando Rivadavia Lopes" Date: Thu, 28 Jan 1999 05:43:19 PST Subject: Re: Ping growing in mossy patches on glaciers? >In THE SAVAGE GARDEN, on page 192, at the end of the > third paragraph Mr. D'Amato writes '... a newly > identified species (unnamed at this writing) has been > found growing in mossy patches on glaciers in the Arctic.' > Anybody have more information about that? Oh-oh! I hope this didn't come from the (hilarious) April Fool's message sent in by Juerg Steiger a year or two ago! Remember? The new Ping species growing in glaciers?? Best Wishes, Fernando Rivadavia Sao Paulo, Brazil ################### From: "Christensen" Date: Thu, 28 Jan 1999 00:20:27 -0700 Subject: Re: Ibicella lutea >When I'm working in my greenhouse and I'm touching a carnivorous >plant with enzymes (like Drosera and Pinguicula) than there >appears (afer half an hour) red spots on my skin. I know for >sure that the red spots are from the enzymes of my plants. The >"strange" thing is that, when I touch an Ibicella, there also >appears red spots on my skin... Sam, maybe you have alergies? I get red/white spots and itchy skin after touching grass and many other plants. However, I can't say it is impossible for enzymes to cause similar skin problems. I don't have cps that produce mucilage like a Ping or Drosera, yet. So, I haven't had the oportunity to try that. ################### From: Barry Meyers-Rice Date: Thu, 28 Jan 1999 15:21:52 -0800 (PST) Subject: Tell me about *your* CP web site Hi folks, I'm compiling a list of CP web sites. If you have a web page with CP content, could you please send me email telling me your web site URL? Be Proud! PLEASE send the email regarding this to me directly, and not to the listserve (where it might both be missed by me, and annoy your listserve-mates!). Thanks Barry ------------------------ Dr. Barry A. Meyers-Rice Carnivorous Plant Newsletter Conservation Coeditor barry@carnivorousplants.org http://www.carnivorousplants.org ################### From: Stephen Davis Date: Thu, 28 Jan 1999 17:05:20 -0800 Subject: Re: Tell me about *your* CP web site I don't see how that would annoy us. I can't get enough of these darn things. The more web sites the better. Of course, I guess we can wait for you to post them. :-( Barry Meyers-Rice wrote: > Hi folks, > > I'm compiling a list of CP web sites. If you have a web page with CP > content, could you please send me email telling me your web site URL? Be > Proud! > > PLEASE send the email regarding this to me directly, and not to the > listserve (where it might both be missed by me, and annoy your > listserve-mates!). > > Thanks > > Barry > > ------------------------ > Dr. Barry A. Meyers-Rice > Carnivorous Plant Newsletter > Conservation Coeditor > barry@carnivorousplants.org > http://www.carnivorousplants.org -- Stephen Davis [V-Card file stephend.vcf deleted by listprocessor] ################### From: "Fernando Rivadavia Lopes" Date: Thu, 28 Jan 1999 17:32:52 PST Subject: Venezuelan Drosera Taxonomy Doubts To Jan and others interested in S.American CPs, Today I went to talk to my friend Rolf Grantsau and take specimens of the Drosera I collected on my most recent trip to N Brazil and S Venezuela for him to draw (he wants to make botanical drawings of all New World Drosera and is helping me tremendously with my taxonomy studies). My things still haven't arrived from Japan, including all my Drosera literature and Taylor's book. That is why there were so many "U.sp." and "(?)" in the list I sent in yesterday. Hopefully these will be identified soon. Anyways, Rolf has a lot of literature on Drosera and so we sat down to analyze some of the things I'd collected. Where do I start?!?! More doubts than I expected. I thought I knew those plants better, or maybe people have been paying too much attention to the larger CPs (Helis) and not enough to the smaller stuff like Drosera -- and let's not even get into small yellow flowered Utrics!!). Well, a few taxonomic doubts regarding D.felix, D.kaieteurensis, D.cayennensis, and D.arenicola. hope somebody can help me. First of all, the division of D.arenicola into 2 varieties is worthless if you ask me! I don't have the paper in front of me (at Rolf's), but the difference in flower scape length cited for D.a.var.arenicola and D.a.var.occidentalis is minimal -- I think up to 7cm and 8cm respectively -- and the difference in flower number ridiculous -- 1-10 and 4-10 respectively, I believe. I collected one in Kavanayen - area cited for D.a.var.arenicola in Flora of the Guyana Highlands -- which had 14 flowers (damn, I just broke one off by accident while counting!). Next, D.cayennensis. I remember fotographing what might've been this species at Bonn during last year's meeting. It was in the small greenhouse full of Drosera (beautiful D.regia, including the albino form) which we had to descend to enter. The plants were a pinkish-red color with short flower scapes near the entrance, remember Jan? Anyways, the type specimen is supposedly from somewhere around Cayenne in French Guyana, which is on a coastal plain I believe, where it must be hot and stuffy just like the D.sessilifolia and D.biflora habitat I saw just north of Boa Vista in Roraima state, N Brazil. Yet the ones I believed to be D.cayennensis were growing in the Gran Sabana in slightly shady habitats at about 1300-1400m. I'm wondering if this is truly D.cayennensis because of the altitude difference and also because the plants I saw in Venezuela as well as at Bonn (I think, I'll have to check the photos I took there - when I find them) had simple white hairs all the way up the scape as well as on the calyx lobes. The description of TYPE D.cayennensis I believe said simple hairs only on the bottom half of the scape and glandular ones on the upper half. I wonder if there's variation in this character....... Now the last doubt regards D.felix and D.kaieteurensis. What is the difference between these two species?!?!?! In the brief time I had, it seemed like the only difference was that D.felix had a single flower on a short scape, almost scapeless while D.kaieteurensis has a slghtly longer scape with several flowers. I found several populations around the Gran Sabana in areas cited for both species (in Flora of the Guyana Highlands and the description of D.felix) with plants that had inflorescences as described for D.felix as well as for D.kaieteurensis, not only in the same population, but on the same plant!! In fact almost every mature plant of this species had flower scapes, most of which were single flowered and short. Yet longer scapes with several flowers were not uncommon at all. It seems to me that D.felix is simply based on single-flowered specimens of D.kaieteurensis, that is, a synonym of D.kaieteurensis, unless anyone can tell me any other differences between these two taxa other than inflorescence length and number of flowers. And now that I believe I have the real D.kaieteurensis in hands, then the one I found on the Serra do Araca' is NOT D.kaieteurensis! What species native to northern S.America has spatulate leaves, inflorescences glabrous, erect, fragile (not as much as D.communis, but nowhere as thick as in D.kaieteurensis). I'll have to check the seeds since it could be some form between D.capillaris and its possible synonym D.tenella, although the plant did NOT look D.capillaris-ish at all. Nor D.colombiana-ish. Maybe D.esmeraldae??? Best Wishes, Fernando Rivadavia Sao Paulo, Brazil P.S. I'm still on the lookout for flowering specimens of D.linearis in alcohol for my friend Rolf to draw. If anyone can help me, I can help you with rare S.American CP seeds.... ################### From: "Sebastian Vieira U" Date: Thu, 28 Jan 1999 21:56:24 -0500 Subject: Lowries VOL 3 Hi, my mail crashed and i lost all last month messages. I can read from Fernandos posting that Lowries VOL 3 is finally out, cant believe it. Someone knows where to get one and how much is it? Regards, Sebastian ################### From: "Mark T. Bachelor" Date: Fri, 29 Jan 1999 14:34:37 +1000 Subject: SUBSCRIBE CP MARK T. BACHELOR Greetings all and Happy New Year! I'm back! The summer holidays are over and we get students returning next week. Our computer system has been over hauled and upgraded again during the break and as a result I have no digest from December 30 on. If some one could please send me the last month's worth of digest I would greatly appreciate it. Thanks in advance. Regards Mark T Bachelor Biology Technican Melbourne Girls Grammar School Voice: +61 (03) 9866 1676 South Yarra, Victoria, Fax: +61 (O3) 9866 5768 Australia 3141 National Science Week, STAV Family Day Co-ordinator Lab Techs' Branch of STAV, South Yarra & Moorabbin Regional Rep. ################### From: "Jason Ashley" Date: Fri, 29 Jan 1999 01:09:39 -0500 Subject: re: Fernando's CP Expedition How lucky to have such a treasure trove of CP in your backyard. All the more reason to save the rain forests of that lovely country. Personally I find this fascinating. If you have any pictures please think about posting them at a website or, perhaps, allow Rick to put them in the database where pictures are lacking. I'd love to see these species as I'm sure everyone else would. To say I envy you is something of an understatement. Someday perhaps.......someday. Many thanks for the mini travel log!! Best, Jason Ashley Warwick, NY USA Peace, love, empathy, --The Mighty KC ################### From: SCHLAUER@chemie.uni-wuerzburg.de Date: Fri, 29 Jan 1999 09:51:24 Subject: Re: Venezuelan Drosera Taxonomy Doubts Dear Fernando, > First of all, the division of D.arenicola into 2 varieties is worthless > if you ask me! I don't have the paper in front of me (at Rolf's), but > the difference in flower scape length cited for D.a.var.arenicola and > D.a.var.occidentalis is minimal -- I think up to 7cm and 8cm > respectively -- up to 2 cm w/ up to 4 flowers for var. arenicola vs. more than 2 cm w/ more than 4 flowers for var. occidentalis. > and the difference in flower number ridiculous - - 1- 10 1-4. > and 4-10 More than 4. > respectively, I believe. I collected one in Kavanayen - area > cited for D.a.var.arenicola in Flora of the Guyana Highlands -- which > had 14 flowers (damn, I just broke one off by accident while counting!). "More than 4" would include 14. > Next, D.cayennensis. I remember fotographing what might've been this > species at Bonn during last year's meeting. It was in the small > greenhouse full of Drosera (beautiful D.regia, including the albino > form) which we had to descend to enter. The plants were a pinkish-red > color with short flower scapes near the entrance, remember Jan? Anyways, > the type specimen is supposedly from somewhere around Cayenne in French > Guyana, which is on a coastal plain I believe, where it must be hot and > stuffy just like the D.sessilifolia and D.biflora habitat I saw just > north of Boa Vista in Roraima state, N Brazil. > > Yet the ones I believed to be D.cayennensis were growing in the Gran > Sabana in slightly shady habitats at about 1300-1400m. I'm wondering if > this is truly D.cayennensis because of the altitude difference and also > because the plants I saw in Venezuela as well as at Bonn (I think, I'll > have to check the photos I took there - when I find them) had simple > white hairs all the way up the scape as well as on the calyx lobes. In this case, both specimens were probably not correctly identified as _D. cayennensis, which has a glandular indumentum on its scapes. > The > description of TYPE D.cayennensis I believe said simple hairs only on > the bottom half of the scape and glandular ones on the upper half. I > wonder if there's variation in this character....... You should compare the seeds with those of the type specimen. > Now the last doubt regards D.felix and D.kaieteurensis. What is the > difference between these two species?!?!?! In the brief time I had, it > seemed like the only difference was that D.felix had a single flower on > a short scape, almost scapeless while D.kaieteurensis has a slghtly > longer scape with several flowers. I found several populations around > the Gran Sabana in areas cited for both species (in Flora of the Guyana > Highlands and the description of D.felix) with plants that had > inflorescences as described for D.felix as well as for D.kaieteurensis, > not only in the same population, but on the same plant!! In fact almost > every mature plant of this species had flower scapes, most of which were > single flowered and short. Yet longer scapes with several flowers were > not uncommon at all. > > It seems to me that D.felix is simply based on single-flowered > specimens of D.kaieteurensis, that is, a synonym of D.kaieteurensis, > unless anyone can tell me any other differences between these two taxa > other than inflorescence length and number of flowers. The two seem to be closely related to each other, indeed. I am, however, not in a position to recommend a grave taxonomic consequence. Perhaps your material allows unification of the two. > And now that I believe I have the real D.kaieteurensis in hands, then > the one I found on the Serra do Araca' is NOT D.kaieteurensis! What > species native to northern S.America has spatulate leaves, > inflorescences glabrous, erect, fragile (not as much as D.communis, but > nowhere as thick as in D.kaieteurensis). I'll have to check the seeds Yes. > since it could be some form between D.capillaris and its possible > synonym D.tenella, although the plant did NOT look D.capillaris-ish at > all. _D. capillaris_ can be tricky sometimes! Be sure the scape does not even have minute stipitate glands (these are often found in _D. capillaris_ specimens that look glabrous at first sight). > Nor D.colombiana-ish. This should have a hairy scape. > Maybe D.esmeraldae??? Maybe. Kind regards Jan ################### From: "Sam Vanderstraeten" Date: Fri, 29 Jan 1999 03:40:16 PST Subject: Sarracenia x catesbaei Dear CP-ers, I'm a CP-enthusiast for 5 years and my favourite plants are (beside Ibicella lutea, that isn't a carnivorous plant) Sarracenia. I have all sorts of Sarracenia and also a lot of hybrids. I also have Sarracenia x catesbaei, but mine have hoods that are standing up. I saw a picture in "Letts Guide to Carnivorous Plants of the World" from "Gordon Cheers" on page "x" with a Sarracenia x catesbaei with hoods that are lying down. You can see that phenomenon very good on the pitcher in front of that picture. Is that phenomenon accidental or is that an other form of Sarracenia x catesbaei? If it is an other form of that plant, I would like to know where I can find seeds or plants. If somebody knows more about that form, please answer me... Thanks... Sam Vanderstraeten ################### From: "Stefan P. Wolf" Date: Fri, 29 Jan 1999 16:08:57 +0100 Subject: Lowrie III bibliographic data Hi CPers! I received my huge freight boxes with fresh copies of Lowrie III yesterday and just finished typing chapter info and transcribing cover text. Here's some for the impatient who can hardly wait to get their copy: ====================================================================== Lowrie, Allen: CARNIVOROUS PLANTS OF AUSTRALIA VOL. 3. University of Western Australia Press, Nedlands, W.A., 1998. hardcover, 288-pp 340-cPh 57-bD M. The third and -- according to the cover text -- last volume of the famous series. 288 pages contain more than 340 colour photographs, 57 line drawings and a distribution maps for each described species. >From the contents (my comments in []): Preface; Acknowledgements; [some information how the] Photographs; [and the] Illustrations [were made]; Glossary; Corrections and validated names [for volumes 1 and 2]; Trapping methods; Perennial tropical Drosera [4 pages of text on habitat, climate, the Drosera petiolaris complex, dormancy, growth, flowering and new species]; Key to Groups of plants in Volumes 1, 2 and 3 [10 pages]: (Key to the tuberous Drosera in Volumes 1, 2 and 3; Key to the pygmy Drosera in Volumes 2 and 3; Key to the perennial tropical Drosera in Volume 3; Key to miscellaneous Drosera in Volumes 2 and 3; Key to Utricularia in Volume 3; Key to Byblis in Volume 3); Setocoris species--the sundew bugs [2 pages of text plus a page with 6 photos]; Habitats [8 pages text and photos]; Description of species [pages 45-279]: ( Utricularia, Aldrovanda, Cephalotus, Drosera, Byblis and Nepenthes [only N. mirabilis]); Bibliography [4 pages]; Index [to all three volumes, 4 pages]. ====================================================================== Cover photo and cover text is at http://www.angelfire.com/de/cpbooks/xlowrie3.html Best regards, Stefan Wolf. -- Dipl.-Inform. Stefan P. Wolf ................................................ mail : Zehlendorfer Str. 69, 24111 Kiel, GERMANY phone: (+49 431) 5973173 * fax: (+49 431) 697568 CP books >> http://www.angelfire.com/de/cpbooks/ ................................................ ################### From: Locsei Gabor Date: Fri, 29 Jan 1999 17:31:23 +0100 (CET) Subject: Medicinal use of CPs I found many interesting details about CPs as medicinal plants. The following lines may explain many people's interest in the genus Drosera. D. rotundifolia: 'Used with advantage in whooping-cough, exerting a peculiar action on the respiratory organs, useful in incipient phthisis, chronic bronchitis, asthma etc., the juice is said to take away corns and warts, and may be used to curdle milk. In America(!) it has been advocated as a cure for old age, a vegetable extract is used together with colloidal silicates in cases of arteriosclerosis.' (Source: Grieve, Mrs M.(1931): A Modern Herbal. Tiger Books Intern., 1992) A cure for old age? The Water of The Eternal Life? But what are benefits of growing Nepenthes? Any guesses? Have fun, Gabor ################### From: "Malouf, Perry" Date: Fri, 29 Jan 1999 12:18:24 -0500 Subject: Re: Medicinal Use of CPs Locsei Gabor wrote: > I found many interesting details about CPs as medicinal plants... > ...But what are benefits of growing Nepenthes? Any guesses? My main benefit from growing them is pleasure. They are a pleasure to behold. And I get a wonderful sense of satisfaction when I am able to grow a Nepenthes to a good size, and have it stand out as a spectacular specimen. Perry Malouf ################### From: "Fernando Rivadavia Lopes" Date: Fri, 29 Jan 1999 11:37:21 PST Subject: Re: Drosera sessilifolia To Matt and Jan, >Without a flower, I guess no human being will be able to tell these >two species apart (if they are not labeled, of course). Well Jan, there is at least one human capable of telling them apart without flowers: ME! And I believe my good friend Ivan Snyder in L.A. (the one who hybridized both species) may be even better than myself, since he has to tell them apart in cultivation, when D.sessilifolia is usually rather small and puny for some reason. It's true they are VERY similar species, but they're not too hard to differentiate in cultivation when you have the common form of D.burmannii. I've seen some odd forms of D.burmannii from N Australia which had quite weird leaf shapes and very red leaves. These may be a bit more confusing. Basically, the leaves of D.burmannii are more triangular and those of D.sessilifolia more rounded. The leaves (or tentacles) of the latter are also usually more reddish or pinkish. If they flower, you'll see erect scapes with pink flowers on D.sessilifolia and ascending scapes with white flowers in D.burmannii (although I've seen forms of this species with erect scapes and I think I've at least heard of pink flowered specimens too). Having just seen D.sessilifolia in the wild again, I've gained a few new insights into this curious species, or at least hypothesis. Me and a few others have noticed that in cultivation D.sessilifolia is always a miniature of what the parent plants looked like in the wild, never growing very large. When I found them N of Boa Vista last week, I noticed they were growing only in a small area near a road, where there were some houses, and where horses and cows occasionally passed by. Yet while exploring further away along the river, Gert and I could find no signs of D.sessilifolia, although there were apparently many good habitats. So what is going through my mind at the moment is that D.sessilifolia may need some kind of fertilizer to grow, both in the wild (from animal droppings) and in cultivation. It would be interesting to test this in cultivation, adding different types of fertilizer to see how big the plants get. If it is true tha D.sessilifolia likes areas fertilized by animal droppings, then we can speculate that D.sessilifolia was VERY common until a few thousand years ago, back before the natives dined on the last mammoths, giant ground sloths, and other extinct S.American megafauna species. :):) Best Wishes, Fernando Rivadavia Sao Paulo, Brazil P.S. I'll get in touch with you soon Matt, just let me get a bit more organized here! ################### From: "It's me again!!! (Tomasz Kowalski)" Date: Fri, 29 Jan 1999 23:08:21 +0100 Subject: Tissue culture Hello Everybody, Can anyone tell me where can a get a special gel for tissue culture. Please send the replies under my e-mail. ################### From: Rick Walker Date: Fri, 29 Jan 1999 15:56:14 -0800 Subject: SUBscription attempt > Date: Fri, 29 Jan 1999 14:34:37 +1000 > From: "Mark T. Bachelor" > To: cp@opus.hpl.hp.com > Subject: SUBSCRIBE CP MARK T. BACHELOR > Message-ID: <1.5.4.16.19990129152037.3f3fa296@gw.mggs.vic.edu.au> > > Greetings all and Happy New Year! > I'm back! The summer holidays are over and we get students returning next > week. Our computer system has been over hauled and upgraded again during > the break and as a result I have no digest from December 30 on. If some one > could please send me the last month's worth of digest I would greatly > appreciate it. Dear Mark, You need to send your subscription request to listserv@opus.hpl.hp.com not the cp listserv address (cp@opus.hpl.hp.com) itself. Make sure and leave your subject line blank. The command SUBSCRIBE CP MARK T. BACHELOR should be in the body of the message. Instructions on where to get the back-issues of the digest will be found in the listserv's welcome message. Best regards, -- Rick Walker ################### From: "Christensen" Date: Fri, 29 Jan 1999 19:27:52 -0700 Subject: Re: can ozone affect seed germination? I can see something in my U. menziesii pot. It looks like a tiny white egg about 1mm thick. Sand, maybe? No, the sand grains look different- they are finer/smaller compared to this 'egg'. What will it do if it is growing? Often, plants grow roots, leaves, and stems. However, Utrics don't appear to have those- they grow 'stolons'. So, if this tiny 'egg' is a growing Utric, then what should I expect to see? The conditions in my terrarium were changed last week. I removed the fan and lowered the temps so the humidity is higher, and icreased the light intensity by using tinfoil. Should I stop misting that pot? Misting stirs around the thin layer of fine peat on the soil surface. Maybe, stirring around the peat disturbs the Utric 'egg' so it doesn't start growing stolons? I have an active imagination. Chad. ################### From: "Yee Han Chaung" (by way of panther@bluep.com) Date: Sat, 30 Jan 1999 13:47:29 +1100 Subject: Fw: FW: Answering Machines >> > > ACTUAL ANSWERING MACHINE MESSAGES >> > > ======================================================= >> > > "My wife and I can't come to the phone right now, but if >> > > you'll leave your name and number, we'll get back to you as >> > > soon as we're finished." >> > > >> > > "Hello, you've reached Jim and Sonya. We can't pick up the >> > > phone right now, because we're doing something we really >> > > enjoy. Sonya likes doing it up and down. I like doing it left >> > > to right, real slowly. So leave us a message. When we're >> > > done brushing our teeth we'll get back to you." >> > > >> > > "A is for academics, B is for beer. One of those reasons is >> > > why we're not here. So leave a message at the beep." >> > > >> > > "Hi. This is John. If you're the phone company, I already >> > > sent the money. If you're my parents, please send money. >> > > If you're my financial aid institution, you didn't lend me >> > > enough money. If you're my friends, you owe me money. If >> > > you are a female, don't worry, I have plenty of money." >> > > >> > > A narrator's voice) >> > > "There Dale sits, reading a magazine. Suddenly the >> > > telephone rings! The bathroom explodes into a veritable >> > > maelstrom of toilet paper, with Dale in the middle of it, >> > > his arms windmilling at incredible speeds! Will he make it >> > > in time? Alas no, his valiant effort is in vain. The bell >> > > hath sounded. Thou must leaveth a message." >> > > >> > > "Hi. Now you say something." >> > > >> > > "Hi, I'm not home right now but my answering machine is, >> > so you can talk to it instead. Wait for the beep." >> > >> > > "Hello. I am David's answering machine. What are you?" >> > > >> > > (From my Japanese friend in Toronto) >> > > "He-lo! This is Sa-to. If you leave message, I call you soon. >> > > If you leave SEXY message, I call sooner!" >> > > >> > > >> > > "Hi! John's answering machine is broken. This is his >> > > refrigerator. Please speak very slowly, and I'll stick your >> > > message to myself with one of these magnets." >> > > >> > > "Hello, this is Sally's microwave. Her answering machine >> > just eloped with her tape deck, so I'm stuck with taking >> > > her calls. Say, if you want anything cooked while you leave >> > > your message, just hold it up to the phone." >> > > >> > > "Hello, you are talking to a machine. I am capable of >> > > receiving messages. My owners do not need siding, >> > > windows, or a hot tub, and their carpets are clean. They >> > > give to charity through the office and don't need their >> > > picture taken. If you're still with me, leave your name and >> > number and they will get back to you." >> > >> > > "This is not an answering machine...this is a telepathic >> > > thought-recording device. After the tone, think about your >> > > name, your reason for calling, and a number where I can >> > > reach you, and I'll think about returning your call." >> > > >> > > "Hi. I'm probably home, I'm just avoiding someone I don't >> > like. Leave me a message. If I don't call back, it's you." >> > >> > > "Hi, this is George. I'm sorry I can't answer the phone right >> > > now. Leave a message, and then wait by your phone until I >> > > call you back." >> > > >> > > "If you are a burglar, then we're probably at home cleaning >> > > our weapons right now and can't come to the phone. >> > > Otherwise, we probably aren't home and it's safe to leave >> > > us a message." >> > > >> > > "You're growing tired. Your eyelids are getting heavy. You >> > > feel very sleepy now. You are gradually losing your >> > > willpower and your ability to resist suggestions. When you >> > > hear the tone you will feel helplessly compelled to leave >> > > your name, number, and a message." >> > > >> > > "You have reached the CPX-2000 Voice Blackmail System. >> > > Your voice patterns are now being digitally encoded and >> > > stored for later use. Once this is done, our computers will >> > > be able to use the sound of YOUR voice for literally >> > > thousands of illegal and immoral purposes. There is no >> > > charge for this initial consultation. However our staff of >> > > professional extortionists will contact you in the near >> > > future to further explain the benefits of our service, and to >> > > arrange for your schedule of payment. Remember to speak >> > cearly at the sound of the tone. Thank you." >> > >> > > "Please leave a message. However, you have the right to >> > > remain silent. Everything you say will be recorded and >> > > will be used by us for profit." >> > > >> > > Thoughts become actions. Actions become habit. >> > > Habit becomes character. >> > > >> > > AND THE QUOTE FOR THE DAY... >> > > "Never miss a chance to keep your mouth shut." >> > > >> > > >> > > Alcoa of Australia Ltd ACN 004 879 298 >> > > >> > > >> > > >> > > > >> > > > >> > > >> > > > ################### From: Dave Date: Fri, 29 Jan 99 23:22 EST Subject: Re: Sarracenia x catesbaei Dear Sam, > I'm a CP-enthusiast for 5 years and my favourite plants are (beside > Ibicella lutea, that isn't a carnivorous plant) Sarracenia. I have all > sorts of Sarracenia and also a lot of hybrids. I also have Sarracenia x > catesbaei, but mine have hoods that are standing up. F1 hybrid: S.flava * S.purpurea = S.* catesbaei (sp?) has upright hoods, like S. purpurea does. F2 hybrid: S. flava * (S. flava * S. purpurea) also = S.* catesbaei, but it has hoods like S.flava. Also, if you self-pollinate an F1 hybrid of S.* catesbaei you will get a rainbow effect in the characteristics of next generation. Some will like more like S.flava, while others will look more like S.purpurea. Sometimes these hybrids can look nearly 100% like one of the parent species, even though it's not. > I saw a picture in > "Letts Guide to Carnivorous Plants of the World" from "Gordon Cheers" on > page "x" with a Sarracenia x catesbaei with hoods that are lying down. > You can see that phenomenon very good on the pitcher in front of that > picture. Is that phenomenon accidental or is that an other form of > Sarracenia x catesbaei? It's not really a form and I'm not sure if/how form names are given to hybrids. I think you have to simply file all the possible characteristics of a particular hybrid under it's given name. If you really like a certain clone, say for the angle of it's hood, then you should name it as a cultivar so it gets reconition. I don't know if there is such a plant available on the market, but you at least know what to look for, or you could make it yourself (it takes a long time, but it's fun.). > If it is an other form of that plant, I would > like to know where I can find seeds or plants. > If somebody knows more about that form, please answer me... > > Thanks... > Sam Vanderstraeten BTW, I have red colored clone of this type, but it will not available until the spring, when the bogs thaw. Dave Evans ################### From: "Mark Pogany" Date: Fri, 29 Jan 1999 15:27:48 -0500 Subject: D. whittakeri Does anyone have experience getting D. whittakeri to germinate? The reason I ask is that this species comes from areas outside W. Australia, the nexus of most tuberous droseras. Any posted protocols would be most appreciated! Mark Pogany Cleveland, Ohio ( D. filiformis just breaking hibernacula in my coolhouse!) markp@en.com ################### From: Phil Wilson Date: Sat, 30 Jan 1999 18:01:33 +0000 Subject: Re: D. whittakeri In message <000a01be4bc5$d6cc3420$c8d2b4cf@markp.crscms.com>, Mark Pogany writes >Does anyone have experience getting D. whittakeri to germinate? The reason I >ask is that this species comes from areas outside W. Australia, the nexus of >most tuberous droseras. > >Any posted protocols would be most appreciated! > > Try soaking the seeds in water. Many tuberous Drosera seeds contain a chemical inhibitor which prevents germination. In habitat this will be gradually washed off by rains during the rainy season. The inhibitor prevents seeds germinating after summer storms when the conditions are not suitable for growth. Soak the seeds in a small dish of water and keep somewhere fairly cool and well lit (most tuberous species will not germinate if it is too warm). Check the dish daily. After several weeks you should see the seeds begin to germinate. Each germinating seed should be transferred onto a pot of soil (a pipette is ideal for this). You can sow the seed directly onto a pot of soil in the usual manner but you will often have to wait as long as a year for germination. Hope this helps. Phil Wilson Email: cp@pwilson.demon.co.uk Web Site: www.pwilson.demon.co.uk ################### From: "Fernando Rivadavia Lopes" Date: Sat, 30 Jan 1999 11:35:27 PST Subject: re: Fernando's CP Expedition Dear Jason, >How lucky to have such a treasure trove of CP in your backyard. I WISH it was my backyard! Please take a look at a map and you'll see that the Venezuelan Gran Sabana, for example, is almost the same distance away from my hometown, Sao Paulo, as it is from where you live, in New York state! And the total distance I travelled (by foot, plane, boat, and car) from the moment I landed in Manaus to when I flew out of there 6 weeks later, was nearly 4000km!!! And just the flight from Sao Paulo to Manaus lasts almost 4h! > All the more reason to save the rain forests of that lovely country. Thanks for the praise! Actually, we didn't see any CPs in rainforest, except for the epiphytic Utrics in the cloud forests of Neblina. Considering how much we hear about the destruction of the Amazon, we were very surprised at how much virgin forest there still is. While flying over the Amazon (S.Paulo -- Manaus, Manaus -- Sao Gabriel, and Manaus -- Boa Vista), it was amazing to see how the forest just went on and on, untouched, one massive green carpet. Yet it was also sad to see the huge holes and garbage left behind by the illegal gold prosperctors ("garimpeiros") up on Neblina. Unfortunately it's very difficult to control all the thousands of garimpeiros in the Amazon. First of all, there's not enough money to patrol all these huge national parks, some the size of small European countries. And second of all, even when removed, the garimpeiros quickly return. After all, it's rainforest all around, how are you going to keep them from walking back in?? >Personally I find this fascinating. If you have any pictures please >think about posting them at a website or, perhaps, allow Rick to put >them in the database where pictures are lacking. I'd love to see >these species as I'm sure everyone else would. It's surely in my plans. But I believe Andreas Wistuba will have his pictures up on his webpage much quicker. I haven't even gotten around to developing my film yet! >Many thanks for the mini travel log!! More to come....... Best Wishes, Fernando Rivadavia Sao Paulo, Brazil ################### From: "Richard Brown" Date: Sat, 30 Jan 1999 22:45:32 -0500 Subject: Re:S. x Catesbaei >F1 hybrid: >S.flava * S.purpurea = S.* catesbaei (sp?) has upright hoods, like S. purpurea does. >F2 hybrid: >S. flava * (S. flava * S. purpurea) also = S.* catesbaei, but it has hoods like S.flava. >Also, if you self-pollinate an F1 hybrid of S.* catesbaei you >will get a rainbow effect in the characteristics of next generation. >Some will like more like S.flava, while others will look more like >S.purpurea. Sometimes these hybrids can look nearly 100% like one >of the parent species, even though it's not. >I think you have to simply file all the possible >characteristics of a particular hybrid under it's given name. If you >really like a certain clone, say for the angle of it's hood, then you >should name it as a cultivar so it gets reconition. Yea, I've seen this too. I've seen many young plants raised from wild collected seed, and the variation can be considerable, since the degree of backcrossing is unknown. I have a number of different clones of S. catesbaei, and they all have spade/shovel-shaped hoods. Color variation is significant. Some are solid dark red and others are veined to differing degrees. The hoods are fairly consistent, however, the best having a very nice geometry to the ruffling (geometric bilateralism?). Trent Meeks Pompano Beach, Florida ################### From: "William M. Gorum, Jr." Date: Sun, 31 Jan 1999 02:13:44 -0600 Subject: Nepenthes and Drosera Hello All! For those of you who remember, I was recently given a tissue cultured Nepenthes and Drosera spp. After shocking them several times due to my own ignorance, they've both recovered. I am planning to set up a ten gallon aquarium to house them in. I wanna run my plan by you to see what y'all think. Ten gallon tank, layer of medium sized gravel covering bottom, will keep the plants' pots out of the standing water in the bottom, which will keep the humidity level elevated. I plan on covering the tank with a glass lid and I'm going to use three 18" flourescent tubes to light it. Any comments or suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks a mil...... Will wgorum@softdisk.com ################### From: Dionaea@aol.com Date: Sun, 31 Jan 1999 11:24:04 EST Subject: D. petiolaris complex Hello everyone: I am curious to hear about experiences that growers might have had with Drosera from the petiolaris complex. I would be interested to hear about germinating experiences, soil, temperatures, dormancies and any relevant information. I am asking because I got some seed from at the seedbank of D. ordensis and D. derbeyensis. Thanks. Christoph ################### From: "Haakan Murevaern" Date: Sat, 30 Jan 1999 23:42:24 +0100 Subject: RE: Toetmoelk Hello Jure and list, >I'd like to know where, when and by who Toetmoelk or Ta"tmio"lk or Filmjo"lk >was/is produced. There are tree different names probably from tree nations? >What is the procedure to do it. Hakan here in Sweden. The following text you find in the "Swedish flora" by Linn\351: If you put fresh (not yet cooled) milk from the cow onto fresh leaves of Tatort (Pinguicula) and leave it for a couple of days you will get the taetmjolk made in northern Sweden. The "a" and "o" in Tatort should have two dots over them and sonds something like "ae" and "oe". I have never tested to make it like that. This is a sourmilk called Tatmjolk (also with dot over a and o). It has a special dense (= Taet) consitency. >From this I suppose the swedish popular name of the plant Tatort (dense-herb) comes. The milk is made today with a special bacterial culture and without the plant. I like the taste of it. Filmjoelk is the more common form of sourmilk. Best Regards Haakan Murevaern See my Carnivorous Plants at http://www.algonet.se/~murevarn ################### From: Gary Kong Date: Sun, 31 Jan 1999 18:31:49 -0800 Subject: Nepenthes and bonsai mix-- Hi Everyone-- My N. sanguinea is quickly outgrowing its four inch pot, and will soon need to be re-potted. I have a bag of "Bonsai Mix," sold under the label "Whitney Farms." It contains: "Black Cinder Rock, Sphagnum Moss, Fir Bark Fines, and Black Cinder Sand." If I mix in some perlite to improve drainage, does this sound like a good medium for Nepenthes? Also, I could use some tips for repotting. For instance, many of the leaves are hugging the pot, way below the soil level in the pot. What do I do? Mound soil around the root ball? Bury the bottoms of the pitchers? Or do I force the recumbent leaves up by making the soil level uniform with the existing soil level? Thanks, Gary. ################### From: "Sebastian Vieira U" Date: Mon, 1 Feb 1999 06:42:11 -0500 Subject: Lowrie's VOL 3 Hi, DOes enyone know where can I buy it?? Thanks. Sebastian Vieira [HTML file part2 deleted by listprocessor] ################### From: "Lindblom, Mats" Date: Mon, 1 Feb 1999 13:52:47 +0100 Subject: Scales! Hi I know that the subject have been up before, but I don't remember the answers.....I've got scales on some of my CPs..They seem to prefer Sarrs, but also some Nephs have been attacked...Advises so far are limited to manually pick them away with a toothpick or similar.I\264ve done that - Thoroughly, and again..Problem is that they tend to return...Is there a decent way to get rid of the little fellows permanently, or do I have to spend the rest of my life looking for new scales....or kill the "infected" plants.... /Mats [HTML file part2 deleted by listprocessor] ################### From: "Adrian Arnold" Date: Mon, 1 Feb 1999 14:03:13 -0000 Subject: Re: D. whittakeri You might also try lightly misting the seeds with a hand sprayer on a daily basis - thus simulating natural rainfall to wash out any inhibitors. Regards, Adrian Arnold. > Subject: Re: D. whittakeri > In message <000a01be4bc5$d6cc3420$c8d2b4cf@markp.crscms.com>, Mark > Pogany writes > >Does anyone have experience getting D. whittakeri to germinate? > Try soaking the seeds in water. Many tuberous Drosera seeds contain a > chemical inhibitor which prevents germination. In habitat this will be > gradually washed off by rains during the rainy season. The inhibitor > prevents seeds germinating after summer storms when the conditions are > not suitable for growth. > > ################### From: Tom Massey Date: Mon, 1 Feb 1999 09:14:53 -0500 Subject: RE: Scales! I have found that wp Orthene works. It is better than malathion, soap, or pyrethrin (sp?) alternatives. Obviously, gotta be careful. Tom in Fl. -----Original Message----- Sent: Monday, February 01, 1999 8:00 AM To: Multiple recipients of list Hi I know that the subject have been up before, but I don't remember the answers.....I've got scales on some of my CPs..They seem to prefer Sarrs, but also some Nephs have been attacked...Advises so far are limited to manually pick them away with a toothpick or similar.I\264ve done that - Thoroughly, and again..Problem is that they tend to return...Is there a decent way to get rid of the little fellows permanently, or do I have to spend the rest of my life looking for new scales....or kill the "infected" plants.... /Mats [HTML file part2 deleted by listprocessor] ################### From: Ken Skau Date: Mon, 1 Feb 1999 09:30:54 -0500 Subject: Some information Related to the recent messages about potential medicinal uses of CP as described in old herbals, I found the following in Culpeper's Complete Herbal. Nicholas Culpeper lived from 1616-1654. SUN DEW (Drosera Anglica) Descrip. It has small, round, hollow leaves, somewhat greenish, but full of red hairs, which make them look very red, every one standing upon its own footstalk, reddish, and hairy likewise. The leaves are continually moist in the hottest day, yea, the hotter the sun shines, the moister they are, the small hairs always holding this moisture. Among these leaves rise up slender stalks, reddish also, three or four fingers high, bearing small whitish knobs one above another, these are flowers, which afterwards contain small seed. The root is a few small hairs. Place. It grows usually in bogs and wet places, and sometimes in moist woods. Time. It flowers in June, and then the leaves are fittest to be gathered. Government and Virtues. The Sun rules it, and it is under the sign of Cancer. The leaves, bruised and applied to the skin, erode it and bring out such inflammations as are not easily removed. The juice destroys warts and corns, if a little be frequently put upon them. I might also point out an interesting site for pictures of CP at http://www.csdl.tamu.edu/FLORA/gallery.htm . This site is not specific for CP but has some outstanding pictures of VFT, Drosera and Sarracenia including some excellent closeup pictures of traps. Kind Regards, Ken Skau ################### From: "Mellard, David" Date: Mon, 1 Feb 1999 08:42:28 -0500 Subject: RE: Nepenthes and Hard Water >Trent here in sunny south Florida. Clyde Bramblett, near Homestead, Florida, >waters his Nepenthes with well water. Kendall/Homestead well water is about >as limey as you can get! I'm surprised he doesn't have stalactites hanging >from the pitchers! Everything seems happy, and has been for years. The >amazing part is he uses the same well water on his Sarracenias, which >luckily also get the benefits of growing outside--rain. The Nepenthes are in >a greenhouse/lathe house, so only get the rainwater during the summer >months. A trick orchid growers have used for years when they know they are using hard water is to flush the plants thoroughly when watering. This prevents the buildup of salts in the media. Maybe Clyde has learned this trick, which is why husbandry is just as important as chemistry. David Atlanta ################### From: "Chris Hind" Date: Sat, 30 Jan 1999 23:59:14 -0800 Subject: Ibicella lutea: Carnivorous or not? >Dear Jan, > >First of all, thank you very much for your answer about Ibicella lutea, >but there is something I want to tell you... I wrote already that I've >been growing Ibicella for 3 years and I already know a bit about the way >Ibicella lives. There is something that is strange to me... >When I'm working in my greenhouse and I'm touching a carnivorous plant >with enzymes (like Drosera and Pinguicula) than there appears (afer half >an hour) red spots on my skin. I know for sure that the red spots are >from the enzymes of my plants. The "strange" thing is that, when I touch >an Ibicella, there also appears red spots on my skin... Aren't that >"digesting" enzymes? >I really believe what you wrote me, but that's something I still don't >understand. >Do you know how this is possible? I was talking this over with Ivan Snyder and he claims he's read about people with alergic reactions to sundew enzymes. Also Ivan has been recently doing experiments on Ibicella and Proboscidea and he claims at least Ibicella is only carnivorous in high humidity settings. He claims the plant will secrete enzyme around an insect or digestible matter in high humidity meaning that it probably works in the wild like Byblis where it is actively carnivorous primarily during the morning hours when the morning dew is out. Jan, have you grown the plant and tested it yourself yet? 2 or 3 experiments isnt a good deal of testing to conclusively prove something especially if humidity is a factor which was unaccounted for. I'm not a 'true believer' that is plant is carnivorous as I might sound but I do think that other factors need to be accounted for before we draw a rigid conclusion. ################### From: "Chris Hind" Date: Sun, 31 Jan 1999 00:08:06 -0800 Subject: A call for local CP enthusiasts in South Bay area, CA I'm looking for local CP enthusiasts. Myself, Ivan Snyder, Ed Read, and Sean Samea are all pretty local and I believe there are a few more and I was wondering if they could email me personally for possible trading purposes or just to trade tips with. Also I'd be happy to work with any newbies to the CP scene as well. Up until I got into the loop I was growing CP for 2 years prior. I wonder how many other people there are out there growing CP by themselves with or without computers who just haven't met the right people to get into the loop. If anyone lives in the South Bay area (esp. Redondo bch, Hermosa bch, Torrance, etc) then I urge you to please email me. ################### From: SCHLAUER@chemie.uni-wuerzburg.de Date: Mon, 1 Feb 1999 19:21:33 Subject: Re: Ibicella lutea: Carnivorous or not? Dear Chris, > Also Ivan has been recently > doing experiments on Ibicella and Proboscidea and he claims at least > Ibicella is only carnivorous How did he test carnivory? > in high humidity settings. He claims the plant will secrete enzyme It secretes mucilage. There may be enzymes in this liquid but none of which has been found to have digesting activity. Did Ivan find such activity? Please remember that moulds and bacteria will be encouraged to grow in a humid environment. So it would probably be the best to use sterile plants from in vitro culture. > around an insect or digestible matter in high humidity > meaning that it probably works in the wild like Byblis where it is actively > carnivorous primarily during the morning hours when the morning dew is out. > Jan, have you grown the plant and tested it yourself yet? Yes. > 2 or 3 experiments > isnt a good deal of testing to conclusively prove something especially if > humidity is a factor which was unaccounted for. The plants I have tested (with more than 2 or 3 experiments, even with pieces of the leaves actually immersed in water, which should provide quite a deal of humidity) were grown in a comparatively humid environment, supposedly in a more humid one than will be encountered at its native habitat in Argentina (and surrounding countries). Barry Meyers-Rice and Jon Wallace & al. have conducted slightly different experiments under their respective growing conditions with the same objective to find evidence for digestive activity. All with negative results. This is IMHO significantly more experimental data than ever published before. > I'm not a 'true believer' > that is plant is carnivorous as I might sound but I do think that other > factors need to be accounted for OK, it's your turn, convince me by accounting for whatever "factors" you like, as long as your conclusions are based on facts. But please do not just cite the time-honoured 1915 paper once again. > before we draw a rigid conclusion. I would not recommend to draw any rigid conclusions here. What we are talking about are hypotheses. Experiments are designed to test these hypotheses, and to improve them accordingly. There will (hopefully!) never be a "final truth" of plant carnivory. Be always prepared for the unexpected! Kind regards Jan ################### From: "Jerelyn Parker" Date: Mon, 1 Feb 1999 15:52:52 -0500 Subject: How fast does Sarracenia purpurea grow? My undergraduate independent research has focused on the seed dispersal of _Sarracenia purpurea spp. purpurea_. I need to know what the growth rate of this plant is. None of the published articles that I have encountered mention this, because I think that most studies are too short to follow the growth of S. purpurea. My hope lies in "how to.." guides, etc. I think. Does anyone on this list know of any carnivorous plant grower's guides that would tell me the growth rate of S. purpurea? Oh, and I cannot seem to get this list out of digest mode. Does anyone know the "command"? Thanks! Jerelyn Parker ################### From: "Mellard, David" Date: Mon, 1 Feb 1999 15:48:58 -0500 Subject: allergies and cp's > There is something that is strange to me... > >When I'm working in my greenhouse and I'm touching a carnivorous plant > >with enzymes (like Drosera and Pinguicula) than there appears (afer half > >an hour) red spots on my skin. I know for sure that the red spots are > >from the enzymes of my plants. The "strange" thing is that, when I touch > >an Ibicella, there also appears red spots on my skin... Aren't that > >"digesting" enzymes? > Years ago, detergent manufacturers had to remove enzymes from their product because some people developed an allergic reaction to the enzymes in the soap. If I remember correctly, allergic reactions went beyond dermatitis and involved the pulmonary system in some people. That happened because in addition to the skin contact people were more likely to breathe the soap in while dispensing it. It would not surprise me if some people developed an allergic skin reaction to the digestive enzymes in plants. The literature is full of examples of allergic skin reactions to plant products. Two examples are poison ivy and poison oak. One must first have an initial skin contact with a plant, which induces the sensitivity, but does not produce symptoms. However, subsequent contact once you are sensitized is needed to produce symptoms. Usually five days to three weeks after contact are needed to develop a skin reaction, although symptoms can appear in 12 to 48 hours for poison ivy and poison oak. It's the low molecular weight compounds in the plants sap (called haptens) that react with enzymes on your skin to produce the reactive antigen that induces the allergic response on the skin. Only skin areas that actually touch the plant will develop a reaction, plus those areas where you may mechanically move the hapten or antigen once things start to itch. The palms are less likely to show a reaction because the thicker skin affords more protection than say the back of the hand and arms. Plants can also cause contact urticaria, which can have an immunologic or nonimmunlogic component to the response. An example of an nonimmunologic contact urticaria is being stuck by nettles, which inject chemicals (for example, acetylcholine, histamine, and serotonin) through the plant's hair. The American ladyslipper (Cyp reginae) is another example. Urticaria is characterized by hives and inflammation (redness) of the skin. Certain edible vegetables can cause an allergic urticaria. An example includes peeling potatoes, which will result also in sneezing or wheezing. Some plants can also sensitize the skin to UV irradiation. For example, plants from the carrot and citrus families. The fuocoumarins in these plants penetrate moist skin and will burn the skin upon exposure to sunlight or fluorescent light. Plants can also cause simple primary chemical irritation similar to skin damage produced by acids. Plant examples here are buttercups, daphne, and peppers. I'm guessing that this is the basis of pepper sprays causing of eye irritation. My guess is that you are experiencing a contact allergic reaction similar to poison ivy. It would be interesting if someone could collect enough Drosera dew to use a microprobe to measure the pH. Regardless, all of this can be easily solved: wear gloves and long sleeved shirts when working closely with your drosera or pinguicula or grin and bear it. David Mellard, PhD Toxicologist ################### From: Chris Teichreb Date: Mon, 1 Feb 1999 13:18:28 -0800 (PST) Subject: Re: How fast does Sarracenia purpurea grow? Hi Jerelyn, > > My undergraduate independent research has focused on the seed dispersal > of _Sarracenia purpurea spp. purpurea_. I need to know what the growth rate > of this plant is. None of the published articles that I have encountered > mention this, because I think that most studies are too short to follow the > growth of S. purpurea. My hope lies in "how to.." guides, etc. I think. > Does anyone on this list know of any carnivorous plant grower's guides that > would tell me the growth rate of S. purpurea? This is going to vary widely. I assume you wish to know how long it takes until the plant is mature, well, in it's southern range, it will grow a lot quicker as opposed to its northern extremes where winter lasts a lot longer and the summer growing season is short. It will, of course, also depend on soil differences. On a very rough average, S.purpurea will take anywhere from 3 up to 8 years to mature. I think this is why it's not reported in the scientific literature. > Oh, and I cannot seem to get this list out of digest mode. Does anyone > know the "command"? I think it's SET CP ACK (in the main body) sent to listserv@opus.hpl.hp.com, however, don't take my word for it, it's in the introductory e-mail you would have received when subscribing. > > Thanks! > Jerelyn Parker > > Good luck with the project. Chris ********************************** Chris Teichreb Department of Biological Sciences Simon Fraser University Burnaby, B.C. cjteichr@sfu.ca ********************************** ################### From: Phil Wilson Date: Mon, 1 Feb 1999 19:46:03 +0000 Subject: Re: D. whittakeri I'm not too familiar with weather conditions in Western Australia during late summer/autumn but I suspect you would need to spray for several hours at a time to simulate the natural rainfall. :-) Far easier to soak the seeds for a few weeks! >You might also try lightly misting the seeds with a hand sprayer on a daily >basis - thus simulating natural rainfall to wash out any inhibitors. > >Regards, Adrian Arnold. > >> Subject: Re: D. whittakeri > >> In message <000a01be4bc5$d6cc3420$c8d2b4cf@markp.crscms.com>, Mark >> Pogany writes >> >Does anyone have experience getting D. whittakeri to germinate? > >> Try soaking the seeds in water. Many tuberous Drosera seeds contain a >> chemical inhibitor which prevents germination. In habitat this will be >> gradually washed off by rains during the rainy season. The inhibitor >> prevents seeds germinating after summer storms when the conditions are >> not suitable for growth. >> >> > Phil Wilson Email: cp@pwilson.demon.co.uk Web Site: www.pwilson.demon.co.uk ################### From: Dave Date: Mon, 01 Feb 99 17:43 EST Subject: Re: Nepenthes and Drosera Dear Will, > Ten gallon tank, layer of medium sized gravel covering bottom, will keep > the plants' pots out of the standing water in the bottom, which will > keep the humidity level elevated. I plan on covering the tank with a > glass lid and I'm going to use three 18" flourescent tubes to light it. > > Any comments or suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Sounds like a good plan. When you cover the tank, don't seal it up tight. You still want some air and lower humidity to come through. This will help keep fungus down as well as keep your plants out of conditions that are too "soft." Soft refers to having the humidity so high that when plants growing in soft conditions are exposed to normal humidity levels, they start to shrivel in a couple minutes and are very, very easily shocked. Good luck, Dave E ################### From: CMcdon0923@aol.com Date: Mon, 1 Feb 1999 19:30:22 EST Subject: Fungus Help I apologize for asking this question here, since I'm SURE it has been covered before. But this is my first experience with this problem, so..... I have a group of Sarracenia outdoors right now, and everybody appears to be "sleeping" nicely. However, just yesterday I noticed that one of the S. rubra wherryi has a grayish mold or fungus on the top of the rhizome, and about the first half-inch of the stumps remaining from the pitchers. Can I safely assume this is botrytis? I have segregated the plant in question, and none of the other pots show any visible signs of a problem. My question is: Can anyone recommend a SPECIFIC BRAND NAME of fungicide (e.g., product XYZ by Ortho, etc.) to safely use on the plant. I also assume a treatment of the other pots might be in order, just incase. One readily available fungicide was Daconil (by Ortho). Anybody have any experiences with this one? I know that Pietropaolo and D'Amato talk about benomyl, Capstan, etc., but I have been unable to find any of these in the several garden centers I visited. Actually I did find one product in which Capstan was but one ingredient, but it also contained Malathion and one other substance whose name I don't remember. It's sold as a treatment for roses. Thanks in advance, Craig McDonald Frisco, Texas Zone 8 ################### From: Peter Cole Date: Tue, 2 Feb 1999 1:31:55 +0800 Subject: Re: Toetmoelk "Jure Slatner" wrote: >Hi, >Peter Cole recently wrote: >>I just hope it's better than the Ta"tmio"lk I tried a couple of years ago. >I'd like to know where, when and by who Toetmoelk or Ta"tmio"lk or Filmjo"lk >was/is produced. There are tree different names probably from tree nations? >What is the procedure to do it. Sorry for the delay replying - I have got rather behind with the CP Digests. I doubt I made it in strict accordance with Lapp tradition (for one thing I used P.grandiflora instead of P.vulgaris, and for another I know nothing of Lapp cuisine. Perhaps you're supposed to use reindeer milk - who knows?) but I believe Ta"tmio"lk is the Lapp word for it (there's a passing reference to it in SLACK - Carnivorous Plants.) I've not heard of the other names. The theory is simple enough - a bit like making a junket (that's a milk pudding curdled with rennet, for the benefit of those who've not come across it before.) The acidic juices, and presumably the proteolytic enzymes in the plant will cause the milk protein to set (or something like that - ask a chemist if you want a reliably scientific description of what happens.) It seemed worth giving it a go in the interest of science. I coarsly chopped 5 or 6 plants and mashed them into the inside of a sieve using the back of a spoon. Then I added 1 pint (or it might have been half a pint - I can't quite remember,) of full fat milk. The theory was that the milk would run through the sieve and coagulate in a bowl, but it didn't work out that way, so it was more a matter or sieving out all (well, as much as I could,) of the green stringy bits after the whole lot had mixed. Within 10-15 minutes it had curdled into long ropy strands and I figured was ready for consumption. Perhaps not surprisingly, it wasn't very nice - rather bitter and with a texture like toad spawn. Worse than sago, but then I've never been much of a fan of that sort of thing. I tried adding some sugar, but it didn't improve it much. I didn't finish it and wouldn't want to try it again. Even the cat wouldn't eat it! I recall we had some discussion on the list last year (or maybe 97?) after I tried it, but I've had some bad computer crashes since then and lost all my mail archives. I do remember one of our Nordic subscribers saying that it was commercially available to some extent somewhere. I hope it tastes a lot better with P.vulgaris (or perhaps you only need a tiny quantity of Pinguicula,) or I really can't see how anyone would want to eat it. Still that goes for sago, tapioca and many other such substances that inexplicably appear (and presumably are bought,) in the shops. If you fancy making some yourself, I would advise: 1) use P.vulgaris not P.grandiflora 2) use less Pinguicula - perhaps only 1 plant (or less) per pint 3) don't mash it up so much - just pour on the milk and strain off after a few minutes, or squeeze out the juice to add to the milk 4) it will probably still taste horrible. Happy cooking, Peter ps: if anyone is waiting for an Email from me, please bear with me - I've been so busy catching up with orders after the Christmas postal chaos that I've had to rather neglect the Net. Fear not, I will mail soon. Kamil Pasek, if you are reading this, please drop me an Email - I have lost your Email address. mailto:carnivor@flytrap.demon.co.uk : http:www.flytrap.demon.co.uk/cchome.htm Cambrian Carnivores,17,Wimmerfield Cr.,SWANSEA,SA2 7BU, UK : tel 01792 205214 Carnivorous Plants,Seeds & Tissue Culture Kits - mailorder,export & wholesale ################### From: Ron Schlosser Date: Mon, 01 Feb 1999 18:21:02 -0800 Subject: Re: Fungus Help On 01-Feb-99, CMcdon0923@aol.com wrote: > I apologize for asking this question here, since I'm SURE it has been > covered before. But this is my first experience with this problem, so..... > I have a group of Sarracenia outdoors right now, and everybody appears to > be "sleeping" nicely. However, just yesterday I noticed that one of the S. > rubra wherryi has a grayish mold or fungus on the top of the rhizome, and > about the first half-inch of the stumps remaining from the pitchers. Can I > safely assume this is botrytis? > I have segregated the plant in question, and none of the other pots show > any visible signs of a problem. My question is: Can anyone recommend a > SPECIFIC BRAND NAME of fungicide (e.g., product XYZ by Ortho, etc.) to > safely use on the plant. I also assume a treatment of the other pots might > be in order, just incase. One readily available fungicide was Daconil (by > Ortho). Anybody have any experiences with this one? I would recommend using Daconil for the fungus, I have seen it labeled for use on Venus Fly traps and have used it on my Darlingtonia and Sarracenias with no problem, don't get them on sundews or pings, won't kill them but they don't like it. > I know that Pietropaolo and D'Amato talk about benomyl, Capstan, etc., but > I have been unable to find any of these in the several garden centers I > visited. Actually I did find one product in which Capstan was but one > ingredient, but it also contained Malathion and one other substance whose > name I don't remember. It's sold as a treatment for roses. All ornamental uses of Benlate (benomyl) have been canceled for a number of years now. > Thanks in advance, > Craig McDonald > Frisco, Texas > Zone 8 ################### From: "~`~TomsRarePlants~`~" Date: Mon, 1 Feb 1999 23:22:35 -0000 Subject: Proboscidea parvifora known as the Devils claw Hello Can you tell me how to grow the Devils claw from seed I've never been able to keep it alive. also has any one been able to grow cephalotus follicularis from seed i'll be geting it in soon, and i want to do right. Can you help me in my endeavor? I would like to be succesful at if for a change. Laura Fritts frittsmb@msn.com ################### From: "Sam Vanderstraeten" Date: Tue, 02 Feb 1999 01:17:18 PST Subject: Re: Re: Ibicella Dear Jan, Thanks for your mails about Ibicella\205 You wrote: >If it can be shown that they live in a +/- obligate association with insects that >perform the digestion, a sub-carnivorous mutualism could be assumed like in >_Roridula_. If you add bacterial decomposition to the legitimate methods of cp >digestion, you can call all sticky plants carnivorous. So, you mean that plants who live together with bacteria aren\222t carnivorous\205 What do you think about Heliamphora? I think Heliamphora (and Darlingtonia, I think) lives also together with bacteria\205 Isn\222t Heliamphora carnivorous? Can you tell me more about that? Kinds regards, Sam Vanderstraeten. ################### From: "Sam Vanderstraeten" Date: Tue, 02 Feb 1999 01:18:25 PST Subject: Utricularia calycifida Dear CP-ers, (Dear Dave, thanks for you information about Sarracenia x catesbaei\205) A friend of me has a question for you all\205 He has a beautiful Utricularia calycifida, a big one. But some big leaves had a strange phenomenon. On the top of that leave, there grows a little \223extra\224 leave\205 He asks what he can do with that and how\205 Thanks in anticipation, Sam. ################### From: SCHLAUER@chemie.uni-wuerzburg.de Date: Tue, 2 Feb 1999 11:35:44 Subject: Re: Ibicella Dear Sam, > So, you mean that plants who live together with bacteria aren\222t > carnivorous\205 Not this way. Bacteria live together with almost everything. Only plants that *depend* on microbes (or other organisms) for digestion are sub-carnivorous (at the most). > What do you think about Heliamphora? I think Heliamphora > (and Darlingtonia, I think) lives also together with bacteria\205 Isn\222t > Heliamphora carnivorous? Once again (I have written this at least two times on this list already, I fear some subscribers are becoming a little tired of reading it again and again), _Heliamphora tatei_ *does* have endogenous proteolytic activity. _Darlingtonia_ is presently under investigation. Kind regards Jan ################### From: Loyd Wix Date: 02 Feb 1999 13:05:55 Z Subject: WARNING - Tatmjolk!! Dear All, I thought it was worth while putting down a few words of caution regarding the current list interest in fermented dairy products involving Pinguicula before some one ends up with food poisoning! Most milk for consumption these days is pasteurised to ensure the removal of any pathogenic bacteria from the milk. Prior to introduction of pasteurised milk, a whole host of diseases such as TB and food poisoning such as Salmonellosis were transmitted to people. Even now, each year many major outbreaks of food borne infection are attributed to non pasteurised milk. Thus contaminating milk with Pinguicula leaves does run the real risk of food poisoning - just think what may be attached to those leaves! Things will be made worse by storing the contaminated milk at elevated temperatures as milk is an excellent medium to grow pathogenic bacteria. So please be careful!!! >set (or something like that - ask a chemist if you want a >reliably scientific description of what happens.) It >seemed worth giving it a go in the interest of science. OK I'm a Food Scientist (rather than a chemist) and my main interest is in ice cream but I do know a bit about such fermentation's. Pinguicula leaves have been used as a substitute Rennet to make cheese over much of their European range. The use in Scandinavia was to make these thick ropy fermented milk products. From what I understand from the literature most of the time a portion of an early batch of Tatmjolk was used to start a new batch. P.vulgaris leaves were used only when a previous batch was unobtainable or the milk was perceived as separating too quickly. Thus I believe we are talking about a bacterial fermentation rather anything enzymatic from the plants. Fresh (unpasteurised) milk contains many organisms which although not harmful will cause changes to the milk. These bacteria can consume the milk sugar lactose (many bacteria cannot utilise this sugar) and produce lactic acid as a by product. This causes the acidity of the milk to rise and when the pH gets to below pH5.2, one of the milk proteins (casein) starts to precipitate and comes out of solution. This can cause the milk to separate into the precipitated casein 'curds' and an aqueous phase of the whey proteins which are more pH stable. With Tatmjolk type products such a separation is undesirable though some ropy culture bacteria have the ability to produce starch type materials and in addition rather than forming single cells, these organisms form long chains or ropes of cells attached to one another. This has the effect of preventing separation of the acidified material (starch type materials are used to stabilise yoghurt drinks for similar reasons), as well as introducing the peculiar stringy texture to the material. Such bacterial starter cultures are now commercially available and are extremely safe and reasonably reliable to use - far less hit and miss compared to using Pinguicula leaves. Peters experience: >Within 10-15 minutes it had curdled into long ropy strands >and I figured was ready for consumption. Perhaps not >surprisingly, it wasn't very nice - rather bitter and >with a texture like toad spawn. Worse than sago, but then >I've never been much of a fan of that sort of thing. I >tried adding some sugar, but it didn't improve it much. I >didn't finish it and wouldn't want to try it again. Even >the cat wouldn't eat it! From what I remember Peter you used what was left in a carton of (pasteurised) milk getting close to its best before date. In which case from your description I do not believe you made true Tatmjolk. Pasteurisation also destroys the natural milk bacteria which cause the milk to go sour but in a non offensive manner. What tends to happen with pasteurised milk is the milk becomes the home for low temperature spoilage organisms whilst in the fridge such as Pseudomonad ssp - the same organisms which can make prawns glow in the dark. These organisms start to break down the milk proteins and fat and thus tend to make the the milk putrefy rather than going pleasantly sour. The bitterness you tasted would indicate this. Tatmjolk should be sour stringy but pleasant. Hope this is of interest Loyd ################### From: "Mellard, David" Date: Tue, 2 Feb 1999 08:19:59 -0500 Subject: tuberous drosera germination >I'm not too familiar with weather conditions in Western Australia during >late summer/autumn but I suspect you would need to spray for several >hours at a time to simulate the natural rainfall. :-) Far easier to soak >the seeds for a few weeks! Hi Phil and all, A couple of months ago I planted a whole host of tuberous drosera seed and was planning on burning leaves on top and chanting before setting them in a tray of water. I haven't done that yet since I ordered some smoke filters. The instructions with the smoke filters said to soak the filters in water and then drop in the seeds. That's not an option now so I thought of soaking the filters in water and then spraying the seeds after setting the pots in a tray of water. What would you and others suggest? Go back to the burning leaves and chanting or stick with spraying smoke-saturated water? And yet another idea I had was to enclose a seeded pot in plastic and set a banana peel inside to release ethylene gas. Seems like I remember reading somewhere that ethylene gas was released from burning leaves and was responsible for germination of some species. David Atlanta ################### From: "Sundew Sundew" Date: Tue, 02 Feb 1999 05:50:23 PST Subject: CP for trade Howdy, list. As always, I've got to make some room. Have some extra stuff, if anyones interested in trading... D. paradoxa (large plant) D. intermedia x capillaris (dormant plants) D. madagascariensis Rhodesia (small plants) D. madagascariensis (small plants) D. burmanii green (small plants) D. sessilifolia (small plants) D. sessilifolia x burmanii (small plants) D. trinervia (seedlings) D. trinervia (small plants) D. cistiflora (small plants, not doing much for me :( ) D. sp.Brazil (like a small red capillaris, could be capillaris?) D. nidiformis (small plants) D. pygmaea (plants and possibly seed) D. occidentalis (plants and possibly seed) D. pulchella D. callistos D. pygmy hybrids (common stuff, have to see) D. intermedia (Gran Sabana - tropical) D. filiformis f (dormant, small plants) D. burkeana ? D. capillaris ? I'm sure there's more but nothing comes to mind right now. I am only interested in seed or disease/pest-free plants right now (tissue culture preferred). Heres a list of some things I need: D. petiolaris complex (except paradoxa, derbyensis, ordensis and derb x ord) - falconeri seed would be nice!!! ;) D.burmanii red D.indica red D.oblanceolata D.slackii D.neocaledonica South American Drosera African Drosera Heliamphora Small Mexican Pings (elhersae, esseriana, gypsicola, etc) Dont be shy, email me! Thanks in advance... Matt New York, USA ################### From: "Richard Jenkins" Date: Tue, 02 Feb 1999 09:52:05 PST Subject: Re: Allergies and CP David and All, >Plants can also cause simple primary chemical irritation similar to >skin >damage produced by acids. Plant examples here are buttercups, >daphne, and >peppers. I'm guessing that this is the basis of pepper sprays >causing of >eye irritation. >My guess is that you are experiencing a contact allergic reaction >similar to >poison ivy. It would be interesting if someone could collect enough >Drosera dew to use a microprobe to measure the pH. The pH of the mucilage of Drosera capensis is reported to be 5.0 in _The Carnivorous Plants_ by Juniper et al. I don't think this would be sufficient to damage human skin in the short term. Drosophyllum on the other hand is reported to have a pH of 2.5-3.0. I wouldn't want any of that in my eye! Richard Jenkins ################### From: Hayes7@aol.com Date: Tue, 2 Feb 1999 14:29:14 EST Subject: Re: Proboscidea parvifora known as the Devils claw Laura, > Can you tell me how to grow the Devils claw from seed I've never been able > to keep it alive. IMHO, It is one of the easiest plants to grow. In fact, I have it come up year to year in my garden (Williamsport, PA) from seed. I am sure it will continue to grow there, even though I moved!!! If you are starting them in pots, I would use as large a pot as you can find and plant 2 or 3 seeds about 1 inch deep in regular potting soil. I have seen them come up even when planted way too deep. (from 3 inches deep.) I am kind of surprised you are able to kill it actually! The only thing is that it isn't hardy, so it would need protection from the cold. Fertilize like any regular house plant. > also has any one been able to grow cephalotus follicularis from seed i'll be > geting it in soon, > and i want to do right. Can you help me in my endeavor? I would like to be > succesful at if for a change. 50/50 peat sand, sow seeds on the surface, and cover with a clear cover. Place in indirect light (or under fluorescent lights) and temps around 70 worked for me. Hope this helps Take care & keep on growing, Thomas Hayes DANGEROUS PLANTS www.tcscs.com/~thayes ################### From: "Mellard, David" Date: Tue, 2 Feb 1999 14:47:49 -0500 Subject: RE: Allergies and CP Hi Richard, >The pH of the mucilage of Drosera capensis is reported to be 5.0 in _The >Carnivorous Plants_ by Juniper et al. I don't think this would be >sufficient to damage human skin in the short term. You're right. That pH will not damage skin. >Drosophyllum on the other hand is reported to have a pH of 2.5-3.0. I wouldn't want any of >that in my eye! Yes again. pH levels of buffered solutions that are below 4.5 start to irritate the eye. pH levels between 3.5 and 4.5 can cause small breaks in the corneal epithelium. It also depends upon the chemical because hydrochloric acid at pH 3 is not irritating as opposed to pH 1, which will send you searching for water. David ################### From: Phil Wilson Date: Tue, 2 Feb 1999 20:44:34 +0000 Subject: Re: tuberous drosera germination David, >>I'm not too familiar with weather conditions in Western Australia during >>late summer/autumn but I suspect you would need to spray for several >>hours at a time to simulate the natural rainfall. :-) Far easier to soak >>the seeds for a few weeks! > >Hi Phil and all, > >A couple of months ago I planted a whole host of tuberous drosera seed and >was planning on burning leaves on top and chanting before setting them in a >tray of water. I haven't done that yet since I ordered some smoke filters. >The instructions with the smoke filters said to soak the filters in water >and then drop in the seeds. That's not an option now so I thought of >soaking the filters in water and then spraying the seeds after setting the >pots in a tray of water. > This might work though I have my doubts since the quantity of smoky water you are spraying over the plants will presumably be pretty small. I believe the key thing is that the seeds soak up enough of the smoky water to break their dormancy, hence the instructions to soak the seed in the water rather than spray it on the soil surface. BTW soaking the seeds in giberellic acid is also very good at breaking seed dormancy. At least the results I got from treating D. fimbriata seed last year was very impressive. >What would you and others suggest? Go back to the burning leaves and >chanting or stick with spraying smoke-saturated water? >And yet another idea I had was to enclose a seeded pot in plastic and set a >banana peel inside to release ethylene gas. Seems like I remember reading >somewhere that ethylene gas was released from burning leaves and was >responsible for germination of some species. > Allen Lowrie has what looks like a pretty good method involving a kettle barbecue. Basically he lights some vegetable matter in a small container (fireproof of course!) and places it in the barbecue. He then puts the pot or pots of seed on a rack so they are above the burning stuff and shuts the lid down tight. The smoke fills the inside of the barbecue and gradually permeates the soil in the pots. I think he leaves the pots in for several hours at least and then waters in the smoke compounds with a fine overhead spray. I'm not sure about the role of ethylene in breaking see dormancy. I know there is a theory that ethylene released during bush flowers is responsible for inducing flowering in certain tuberous Drosera species but I'm not sure if this has ever been scientifically proven. The last resort of course is to simply wait. Its a long wait admittedly but if you do not get germination this season you may get some next fall/autumn. I certainly never throw out a pot of tuberous Drosera seed for at least a year. In some rare cases I have had germination after two years - this must be some sort of record! Regards, Phil Wilson Email: cp@pwilson.demon.co.uk Web Site: www.pwilson.demon.co.uk ################### From: ricell@juno.com Date: Tue, 2 Feb 1999 14:37:15 -0700 Subject: Re: D. petiolaris complex On Sun, 31 Jan 1999 Dionaea@aol.com writes: >I am curious to hear about experiences that growers might have had with >Drosera from the petiolaris complex. I would be interested to hear about >germinating experiences, soil, temperatures, dormancies and any relevant >information. I am asking because I got some seed from at the seedbank >of D. ordensis and D. derbeyensis. Thanks. I am experimenting on this goups of Drosera as well. In general, they seem to prefer warm to hot temperatures (up to 105f is fine). I have been growing them in 50:50 peat sand mix. While they don't seem to go completely dormant, they do seem to slow down when the temperatures drop below 70. I have never exposed them to temps below 55f. I keep them damp to wet when they are actively growing and just slightly damp when they are not. Under these conditions, D. broomensis, D. paradoxa, D. dilato-petiolairs and D. lanata seem to be thrive. D. fulva, D. caduca, D. ordensis, D. falconeri, D. kennealyi, D. darwinensis, D. derbyensis D. petiolaris and D. brevicornis do OK. I am open to suggestions from anyone else with experience growing these plants. Rich Ellis, Boulder, CO "ricell@juno.com" http://www.geocities.com/RainForest/Vines/8564/ ################### From: "Mark Pogany" Date: Tue, 2 Feb 1999 01:04:13 -0500 Subject: RE: Scale I have found that wp Orthene works. It is better than malathion, soap, or pyrethrin (sp?) alternatives. Obviously, gotta be careful. Tom in Fl. To second Tom's advice I would also recommend Orthene. Experience has shown me that it works well, is easy on most CPs, and continues to ward off pests long after it is applied. It smells to high heaven so use in an enclosed tank setup could be problematic! Use gloves and a face mask when applying it. Mark Pogany Cleveland, Ohio markp@en.com ################### From: Rand Nicholson Date: Tue, 2 Feb 1999 21:04:35 -0400 Subject: Re: Fungus Help >I apologize for asking this question here, since I'm SURE it has been >covered before. But this is my first experience with this problem, >so..... > >I have a group of Sarracenia outdoors right now, and everybody appears >to be "sleeping" nicely. However, just yesterday I noticed that one of >the S. rubra wherryi has a grayish mold or fungus on the top of the >rhizome, and about the first half-inch of the stumps remaining from the >pitchers. Can I safely assume this is botrytis? >Craig McDonald >Frisco, Texas >Zone 8 I can't really help you here, you've got serious trouble from your description, but you might try dusting the plants with sulphur _before_ they go dormant. Kind Regards, Rand Rand Nicholson New Brunswick, Canada The Great White Frozen North ################### From: drury6@juno.com Date: Tue, 26 Jan 1999 16:11:59 -0600 Subject: nepenthes habitat What other plants grow with nepenthes? ################### From: "Marc I. Burack" Date: Wed, 03 Feb 1999 08:22:06 -0500 Subject: bicalc mutation!!! To all- I am pretty excited about this one. I currently grow a few different forms of N. bicalc. A "smallish" one I have just put out its largest pitcher yet (about 2 1/2 inches. The bizzare part is that it has TWO full sets of teeth!!! One set in front of the other?!? Trent Meeks is going to come over to photograph it later this week and we will submit it to the ICPS newsletter. Has anyone ever seen this before?? What would a good cultivar name be??..... N. bicalc var. JAWS??!!!? :-) ################### From: SCHLAUER@chemie.uni-wuerzburg.de Date: Wed, 3 Feb 1999 18:28:52 Subject: looking for a text Dear Listeners, Mesdames, Messieurs, I have tried to obtain a text published in 1871 via interlibrary loan. Unfortunately, however, without success. Arvet-Touvet (1871) "Essai sur les Plantes du Dauphinee", Grenoble, page 50 (perhaps with separate illustration!). Thanks to Juerg Steiger's efforts I know that there is one library that does have the whole book, but they do not loan it: Universite de Grenoble I Institut National Polytechnique (de Grenoble) - Section Sciences, Bibliotheque, Domaine universitaire. Boite Postale 66 F-38402 Saint-Martin-d'Heres, Cedex. France Tel. +33 0476514284. Fax +33 0476444621. Chef: Marie France Rochard. If someone reading this (most probably one of our French colleagues) is able to send me a photocopy of the above cited reference (only the chapter dealing with _Pinguicula_, *NOT* the whole book!), would you please contact me at schlauer@chemie.uni-wuerzburg.de Merci beaucoup d' avance pour l' assistance. Kind regards Jan ################### From: "John Green" Date: Wed, 03 Feb 1999 11:23:55 -0700 Subject: 3 Q's: gemmae, seedlings and hybrids Q1: Can pygmy Drosera gemmae be stored? What is the best method and how long can they be kept in storage? Q2: I've had a difficult time growing Sarracenia from seedlings. I notice that as the seed sprouts, it produces the cotyledons (sp?) about 1 cm above the soil, and then all the pitchers are produced at that spot, the same place I assume the rhizome will develop. Should I push some of the soil up around the plant to bring it up to that level? Q3: When making a hybrid cross between Sarracenia species, does it make a difference in the offspring which plant produces the seed? John Green Salt Lake City, UT ################### From: Barry Meyers-Rice Date: Wed, 3 Feb 1999 11:16:44 -0800 (PST) Subject: Announcing the CP Web Ring ----INTRODUCTION Hello all CP Web Masters! Let me tell you about http://www.tbcpc.org/webring/ For as long as I've maintained the CP FAQ, I've been battling with the notion of how we can keep an updated list of CP Web sites. If you look at Yahoo or other search engines, you will see that the majority of great web sites owned by CPers are not easily found. Now we have a solution for this. I've been working with the inestimable Web Guru Derek Glidden on developing a "Web Ring" for carnivorous plant web sites. A Web Ring is a set of sites that are all joined by a linking icon at the bottom of each participating site. The linking icon has front/back buttons so you can travel from the site you are on, to the preceding and following web sites in the Ring. There are also links the the Web Ring home where there is a list of everyone participating on the list. ----BENEFITS The great benefits of the Web Ring are two-fold. First, this is finally a way of getting a good list of CP web sites together in one place. People surfing the web will be able to easily move from one site to another. The list of sites will be kept at the Web Ring home, providing another way of surfing sites. There are amazing sites on the web which are hard to find by the search engines. The Web Ring will show you where they are. Second, the Web Ring will vastly increase traffic to your CP Web Site. This is because your web site will be linked to other heavily travelled sites. I will shortly upload v7.0 of the CP FAQ, which will have a number of links to the Web Ring. The Ring is also featured at the ICPS web site. Furthermore, I expect that the on-line nurseries will be joining the Web Ring (nurseries, private web sites are all welcome) and while they will be benefiting from free publicity, your web site will benefit from heightened traffic. When we stabilize some aspects of the Web Ring, we will register it with the appropriate search engines. Unlike other Web Rings, by joining you will not have to have annoying ads printed on your web site. This is because, with the programming prowess of Derek Glidden, we do not have to rely on professional services. ----THIS IS GREAT! I am very excited about the CP Web Ring. It is one of those ideas which, once you think about it, seems vastly overdue! It is all possible, of course, by the marvelous work done by the following: Derek Glidden (derek@carnivorousplants.org)---Web Ring Guru. Derek is also web guy for the Tampa Bay CP Club. Jay Lechtman (jay@carnivorousplants.org)---ICPS President Barry Meyers-Rice (barry@carnivorousplants.org)---myself, CPN editor. I also am the keeper of the CP FAQ. ----HOW TO JOIN... In order to be fair to everyone, sites on the CP Web Ring *must* have significant CP content, of course. We do not want to include sites which are just lists of links to other sites---the Web Ring will already serve this function. A good Web Ring site must have new content. Photos, text, good stuff. So if you are proud of your CP web site, go to the Web Ring home and sign on. Each site will be looked at by Derek, myself, and ICPS president Jay Lechtman to make sure it is appropriate and then you can follow the instructions and join! We are just starting out (last I looked the Web Ring just had test sites on it) but it looks great already. Yay Derek! Again, the site is: http://www.tbcpc.org/webring/ The Web Ring is still evolving a little, but 95% of the work is done and it is time to have your site added to the list! During this initial phase, please be understanding and if you see a way we can improve the Web Ring, YOUR Web Ring, please contact us! Welcome! Barry ------------------------ Dr. Barry A. Meyers-Rice Carnivorous Plant Newsletter Conservation Coeditor barry@carnivorousplants.org http://www.carnivorousplants.org ################### From: "Mellard, David" Date: Wed, 3 Feb 1999 15:05:44 -0500 Subject: Sar seedlings >Q2: I've had a difficult time growing Sarracenia from seedlings. I >notice that as the seed sprouts, it produces the cotyledons (sp?) >about 1 cm above the soil, and then all the pitchers are produced at >that spot, the same place I assume the rhizome will develop. Should >I push some of the soil up around the plant to bring it up to that >level? I know you're going to hate to hear this but Sarr seedlings are easy. When I hear people say they aren't, I strongly suspect that the reason is either insufficient light or cold/cool temperatures. I grow my seedlings under fluorescent lights as close to the bulb as possible and then put them outside during hot weather. I occasionally find a seedling that seems to have lifted itself above the mix. I not too kindly push it back down. I don't know if this works or not because (and I hate to say this, too) there's too many seedlings to worry about The advice about light and temp apply to the growing season and germinating seed and not the lower temps and lower light levels that induce dormancy. David Atlanta ################### From: "Napolitano, Michael" Date: Wed, 3 Feb 1999 15:33:01 -0800 Subject: S.Oreophila seeds Hi All! I've decided to de-lurk to ask for the sage wisdom of the group. I have a few S. Oreophila seeds given to me by the good folks at Peter D'amato's California Carnivores last September. They have been sitting in the fridge in a waterproof plastic bag since then. I would like to try to get them started soon. What advice can anyone give me on the best way to get a good germination rate. What is the best medium? More or less water in infancy? Any preferred ways to start them, or just stick 'em in the peat? They will be growing in San Francisco, so the threat of frost is pretty nil. Any advice is much appreciated, and hopefully will help bring more of these wonderful plants into the world. _Mike Napolitano ################### From: Peter Cole Date: Thu, 4 Feb 1999 2:43:38 +0800 Subject: RE: Toetmoelk "Haakan Murevaern" writes: .. >If you put fresh (not yet cooled) milk from the cow onto fresh leaves of >Tatort (Pinguicula) and leave it for a couple of days you will get the >taetmjolk made in northern >Sweden. I guess I shouldn't have mashed them up then :) Happy growing, Peter mailto:carnivor@flytrap.demon.co.uk : http:www.flytrap.demon.co.uk/cchome.htm Cambrian Carnivores,17,Wimmerfield Cr.,SWANSEA,SA2 7BU, UK : tel 01792 205214 Carnivorous Plants,Seeds & Tissue Culture Kits - mailorder,export & wholesale ################### From: "Don Elkins/Sean Madison" Date: Wed, 3 Feb 1999 22:15:02 +1300 Subject: Nepenthes soil mix Hello List I was curious as to what is the favorite soil mix for Nepenthes that the list is using?I am using combinations of peat/fine bark. Also has anyone used leaf mould as an ingredient? Where these plants grow in the wild,I know a few grow in peaty soils,but what is the soil like for most Nepenthes? Sincerely Don Elkins [HTML file part2 deleted by listprocessor] ################### From: Loyd Wix Date: 04 Feb 1999 12:57:13 Z Subject: The size of P.lusitanica Dear All, still trying to catch up with this years digest - I did not have the opportunity to comment on P.lusitanica from a week or so ago so here goes: >>One of the things that's bothering me is that the plants >>are maybe 1 cm in >1 cm diameter is about the right size. Actually if you read the literature this is very small! Both Casper in his Monograph and Webb in his Irish Flora quote 4cms in diameter. The largest plants I have seen in habitat reached 5cm (Slieve Mish Mountains Co Kerry Republic of Ireland) although 4cm would be a reasonable average size for mature (flowering) plants at these locations. I sent seed collected from these Irish sites to the UKCPS seed bank, Allen Lowrie and a few chums. Many of the plants that I have germinated from this seed are already 1cm in diameter. After seeing these large Irish plants I changed the conditions I was growing my English (Hampshire) plants. By increasing the humidity these are now 2cm in diameter. The next thing to try is that the Irish plants were growing in relatively mineral rich mountain side seaps and not typical bog conditions. Thus increasing the mineral content of the compost or the application of a folia feed may be advantageous. Regards Loyd ################### From: Nicholas Plummer Date: Thu, 04 Feb 1999 08:14:38 -0500 Subject: North Carolina plant permits, Sarr oreophila Has anyone successfully obtained the requisite permits to grow Sarracenia oreophila in North Carolina? In July, I sent an application form to the N.C. Plant Conservation program. I have since followed up with two phone calls, and I still haven't heard anything regarding my application. Is the process just slow as molasses? Should I assume that the application was denied, or should I resubmit? Nick ---------------------- Nicholas Plummer nplummer@duke.edu ################### From: "Mellard, David" Date: Thu, 4 Feb 1999 09:25:29 -0500 Subject: RE: North Carolina plant permits, Sarr oreophila >Has anyone successfully obtained the requisite permits to grow >Sarracenia oreophila in North Carolina? In July, I sent an application >form to the N.C. Plant Conservation program. I have since followed up >with two phone calls, and I still haven't heard anything regarding my >application. Is the process just slow as molasses? Should I assume >that the application was denied, or should I resubmit? Hi Nick, Are you sure you need a permit. In Georgia, you need a permit to take protected plants from the wild, not to grow protected plants. Permits are issued if you prove that you are rescuing plants and get written permission from the owner. I have such a permit to rescue Cyp. acaule. All Sarracenia that are native to Georgia are protected in Georgia but you can grow them if you grow them from seed or get plants from a person or business that grows them (and those plants are not wild collected). I assume the same is true for the two federally protected plants, although I'm sure the government bureaucracy will drive you insane first. David Atlanta ################### From: Chris Teichreb Date: Thu, 4 Feb 1999 09:08:58 -0800 (PST) Subject: Re: S.Oreophila seeds Hi Mike, > Hi All! > I've decided to de-lurk to ask for the sage wisdom of the group. I > have a few S. Oreophila seeds given to me by the good folks at Peter > D'amato's California Carnivores last September. They have been sitting in > the fridge in a waterproof plastic bag since then. I would like to try to > get them started soon. What advice can anyone give me on the best way to get > a good germination rate. If they're fresh, just sow them without any stratification. If they're from over a year ago, they may need stratification for good germination. To do this, place the seeds on a moist paper towel in a ziploc bag in the fridge for about 4 weeks before sowing. I always get near 100% germination doing this. > What is the best medium? Live sphagnum moss. > More or less water in > infancy? Same as adults. I like to fill up their container and let it drop over a period of about a week before refilling. Seems to work for me. > Any preferred ways to start them, or just stick 'em in the peat? Just sow them on top of the sphagnum. Live sphagnum is great because it seems to ward off fungal attacks, which Sarr seed seems prone to when place on a peat mixture, even in good light. > They will be growing in San Francisco, so the threat of frost is pretty nil. > Any advice is much appreciated, and hopefully will help bring more of these > wonderful plants into the world. S.oreophila is pretty cold hardy compared to others as it regularly sees snow in its mountain habitat. If you sow indoors, make sure to have good lighting, Sarrs are light pigs and can't seem to get enough. I place all my seedlings about 1 inch under twin fluorescent bulbs. They really do start to grow like weeds in live sphagnum. Make sure to thin them out by summer, as if they're cramped, they tend to grow slower. Good luck! > _Mike Napolitano > > Happy growing, Chris ********************************** Chris Teichreb Department of Biological Sciences Simon Fraser University Burnaby, B.C. cjteichr@sfu.ca ********************************** ################### From: CALIFCARN@aol.com Date: Thu, 4 Feb 1999 14:13:37 EST Subject: Re: That glacier ping Greetings folks, Peter here at California Carnivores! There has been occasional chit chat about that Pinguicula I mentioned in the introduction to The Savage Garden, where, speaking of the fact that most carnivorous plants come from temperate, and not tropical, climates, I wrote that a new species was found growing "on glacial ice". Fernando mentioned a few days ago that the letter Joe Mazrimas had shown me had been an April Fools joke. Fernando is indeed correct on this point, and Juerg was kind enough to send me a copy of the original message, which, as good practical jokes should be, seemed very serious! Apparently, according to Juerg, the response to it indicated that many people, including yours truely, found it quite believable! Juerg was quick to point out that he has found P. leptoceras on moraines within 300 yards of glaciers, which is close enough for the purpose of that sentence in my book. The book will be amended for its second printing. As for other news: Here at California Carnivores we have in stock a limited quantity of D. stolonifera ssp. stolonifera. These are large, fairly mature plants that are breaking the soil surface now, and are completely adjusted to the northern hemisphere. They are in five inch pots. Price is $20. We may have younger ones come up that may sell for about $10. Check our website californiacarnivores.com for ordering information, or call us at (707) 838-1630. Th-th-th-th-th-that's all folks! Peter ################### From: "Nigel Hurneyman" Date: 04 Feb 99 17:23:45 +0000 Subject: Re: 3 Q's: gemmae, seedlings and hybrids Hi John, Regarding storing pygmy gemmae, in my experience you can store most of them in the fridge provided you keep them slighly moist. Small gemmae (occidentalis) keep for a very long time, over a year if you are lucky. Larger gemmae (scorpioides) keep for a much shorter period, perhaps a month or two. There are one or two really tricky species (ericksoniae) which I can't seem to keep for any time at all. The longer you keep them in the fridge, the more gently you have to acclimatise them when you sow them, and have the fungicide handy. Hope this helps, NigelH ################### From: Phil Wilson Date: Wed, 3 Feb 1999 20:24:27 +0000 Subject: Re: 3 Q's: gemmae, seedlings and hybrids John, >Q1: Can pygmy Drosera gemmae be stored? What is the best method >and how long can they be kept in storage? > Depends on the species. Generally the smaller flatter (fishscale-like) gemmae can be stored for quite a long time if kept a) wet and b) chilled. To keep them wet store them between a fold of dampened kitchen roll and place this in a small ziploc bag. Keep this in the fridge. I have kept gemmae of D. pulchella this way for up to six months, though generally the longer the gemmae are stored the lower the percentage that start into growth successfully. The larger gemmae tend to sprout regardless of the temperature and will start to grow even when kept in the fridge. Storage times for this type of gemmae can be little more than a week at the most. >Q2: I've had a difficult time growing Sarracenia from seedlings. I >notice that as the seed sprouts, it produces the cotyledons (sp?) >about 1 cm above the soil, and then all the pitchers are produced at >that spot, the same place I assume the rhizome will develop. Should >I push some of the soil up around the plant to bring it up to that >level? > All that is happening is that as the initial root pushes into the soil the plant itself gets forced up. You can carefully bury the plant again once it has formed the first or second pitcher. However, if you bury the seed to about its own depth when sowing you will find that the tendency of the seedling to push clear of the soil is greatly reduced. >Q3: When making a hybrid cross between Sarracenia species, does it >make a difference in the offspring which plant produces the seed? > Not as far as I know. There is probably a convention as to which plant (the plant bearing the pollen or the plant bearing the seed) is listed first but I can't remember which way round it is. Regards, Phil Wilson Email: cp@pwilson.demon.co.uk Web Site: www.pwilson.demon.co.uk ################### From: Dave Date: Thu, 04 Feb 99 18:57 EST Subject: Re: 3 Q's: gemmae, seedlings and hybrids Dear Phil W. > >Q3: When making a hybrid cross between Sarracenia species, does it > >make a difference in the offspring which plant produces the seed? > > > Not as far as I know. There is probably a convention as to which plant > (the plant bearing the pollen or the plant bearing the seed) is listed > first but I can't remember which way round it is. The seed bearing plant (mother) is the one listed first. As for the first question, it does matter for some plants, but CP'ers haven't come up much definative data on for CP's yet. If there is anyone who might be able to add info, I reckon that would be Phil Sheridan, who has done alot of breeding experiments with Sarracenia. Dave Evans ################### From: Tony Camilleri Date: Fri, 05 Feb 1999 10:01:45 +0930 Subject: Borneo visit I will be visiting Sabah and Mt Kinabalu in December and would appreciate any comments or contacts about finding Nepenthes from people who have been there before. Please e-mail me privately with any useful information. tona@topend.com.au P.S: I have heard there is a good Nepenthes nursery in Sabah, could anybody confirm that. Regards, Tony Camilleri Australia ################### From: "Richard Brown" Date: Thu, 04 Feb 1999 21:11:50 -0500 Subject: Re:Nepenthes Soil Mix Don and Sean, This is a recurring topic on the Digest. Every Nepenthes grower seems to have concocted their own mix, based upon their growing conditions- micro-climates- greenhouse in Europe or a lathe house in south Florida? A few factors are consistent- well drained, yet moisture retentive, and a mostly neutral to acidic ph. I have my own mix, and I'm constantly adjusting. Some species seem to need very specific soil characteristics- ultrabasic or lateritic materials, but most grow well in a well drained sphag. peat and clay ball/pumice/perlite mixture, maybe with fir bark, sphagnum moss, coir fiber, charcoal as an added component. Lately, I have placed a couple of plants in pure sphagnum moss to see what would happen. I've had wonderful results, as long as the moss is not packed to tightly. these plants also require less watering. I have also noticed that N. mirabilis prefers a heavy peat moss mix, and N. bicalcarata likes a peaty mix, but not as heavy as mirabilis. I have found that coir peat breaks down quickly into a reddish sludge, and rot out a Nepenthes root system very suddenly. Be careful if you use these "just add water" bricks! Good growing, Trent Meeks Pompano Beach, Florida ################### From: Barry Meyers-Rice Date: Thu, 4 Feb 1999 18:31:06 -0800 (PST) Subject: Cultivar Registration Hey All, Jan and I have been working to make the whole cultivar registration process a little more clear. There are two steps to the process. The first is in having your cultivar or cultivar-group description published in a widely circulated journal. The second is in registering your cultivar or cultivar group. Obviously, the zeroeth step is in developing a good plant! At the ICPS Website (http://www.carnivorousplants.org) we have set up an area where you can download the Cultivar Registration Form, and an example of a completed form. You can also learn a little more about what a cultivar is, what a cultivar-group is, etc. Developing these forms with Jan has been a definite learning experience for me! I think this is a major step forward in making it easier for growers to validate their bogus-named pseudo-cultivars. It is no longer a mystery of what must go into a cultivar description, what's a nominant, registrant, etc etc. It's all there for you! Cheers! Barry ------------------------ Dr. Barry A. Meyers-Rice Carnivorous Plant Newsletter Conservation Coeditor barry@carnivorousplants.org http://www.carnivorousplants.org ################### From: Dave Date: Thu, 04 Feb 99 21:58 EST Subject: Re: Cultivar Registration Congratulations Barry and Jan! > At the ICPS Website (http://www.carnivorousplants.org) we have set up an > area where you can download the Cultivar Registration Form, and an example > of a completed form. > > You can also learn a little more about what a cultivar is, what a > cultivar-group is, etc. Developing these forms with Jan has been a > definite learning experience for me! This is really great news, I beleive this will help a lot of growers understand and use cultivars instead of bogus names. I'll be sure to refer this site to anyone who has plant(s) they feel should have be named. On this note, Tom Hayes, I think we have more than a couple interesting plants between the two of us. Let's see about naming them, instead of just talking about like we have been! ;^) Dave E ################### From: "Bruce Salmon" Date: Fri, 5 Feb 1999 17:02:51 +1300 Subject: The Savage Garden Dear Peter and All. Something has been bugging me about the book, The Savage Garden. On some pages you will notice photos that look as though they have been in a fire or in a supervillans vat of acid. e.g. p. 110 (H. nutans), p. 236 (N. albomarginata) etc. What is the significance/story behind these photos. Thanks Bruce [HTML file part2 deleted by listprocessor] ################### From: "Sam Vanderstraeten" Date: Fri, 05 Feb 1999 01:25:23 PST Subject: RE: Medical uses of CP - Part III PART III Provided that the above described rules are carried out on a regular base CARNIVORA (TM) treatment could be initiated according to the following recommendations: Introduction CARNIVORA ( TM ) CARNIVORA (TM), a standardized phytopharmacon of pressed juices of Dionaea muscipula, is used for the treatment of cancer and chronic diseases in man. Highest qualitiy is ensured by strict consideration of GMP-guide- lines resulting in extremely low endotoxin activities of less than 3.5 ng/ml. In long and short term in-vivo and in-vitro studies CARNIVORA 9TM0 proved to be completely untoxic and no-mutagenic. Studies carried out in tissue cultures, laboratory animals and in man, have revealed the folowing therapeutic effects of CARNIVORA (TM): 1. cytostasis 2. Mitotic inhibition 3. Immunoinduction-Immunestimulation and Modulation. 4. Starvation of the single tumor cell by decreasing the ATP content. 5. Virucidal effect 6. Alleviation of pain CARNIVORA (TM) has been proven to be asafe product and shows positive effects in the treatment of cancer, chronic diseases and HIV infection in man, By combining silicagel column-chromatography preparative TLC, and HPLC on ODS-phase various components were isolated from CARNIVORA (TM). Kreher et Al. 1988 reported for the first time the isolation of hydroplumbagin -4-0~ glucopyranoside, a component of this carnivorous plant diontea muscipula, component. In a primary in vitro screening for anti-HIV activity in human lymphocytes CARNIVORA (TM) proved to be highly efficacious. In this test the concentration of the viral protein p24 is determined in the supperrnatent of HIV infected cells grown in the presence of CARNIVORA (TM). Additionally, the concentration of viral RNA measured in the cells is a good indicator of virus replication. The anti viral effect is determined by comparison of the p24- and RNA- concentrations in medicated and control cells. Result with CARNIVORA 9TM0: Inhibition of p24 -synthesis: 100% Inhibition of RNA-synthesis:100% In a pilot study on humans CARNIVORA (TM) demonstrates its effect in regard of improved Karnowsky index and body weight, decrease of beta 2 micro- globulin, constant levels of neopterin, increase of CD4 helper cells and total T lymphocytes. Toxicology: Acute toxicity : An acute toxicity study has been conducted in Spraque-Dawley rats, The mean LD 50 ranged from 1500 mm to 1750 mg/ kg bw. Subacute toxicity: In a 90 day study CARNIVORA (TM) did not show any toxic reactions in male rats at 30 times and An female rats at 60 times the recommended human dose rate. Mutagenicity and genotoxicity: CARNIVORA (TM) was not mutagenic when assessed in the Ames test and the chromosomal aberration test in the bone marrow of the Chinese hamster. There was no indication for genotoxicity when CARNIVORA (TM) was evaluated in the SOS- Chromotest. Composition The composition of CARNIVORA (TH) formulation is as follows: CARNIVORA (TM) injectable solution The 50 ml bottle contains the steril pressed juice of the entire fresh plant, Dionaea muscipula, adjusted to 2% dry residue and isotonicity with Mannitol. CARNIVORA(TM) drops 1 ml CARNIVORA (TM) contains : The pressed juice of the entire fresh plant, Dionaea muscipula, adjusted to 2% (W/W) dry residue 0.33 ml, ethanol 86%, and aqua purificata 0.34 mil. Indications The use of CARNIVORA ( TM ) Is reconmended for the treatment of the following diseases: Adult malignant tumors (except Sarcomas ) Ulcerative colitis Crohn\355s disease Rheumatoid arthritis Neurodermitis Multiple sclerosis Immune deficiency diseases HIV lnfections, LAS, ARC:, AIDS Chronic Fatigue Syndrom Herpes labialis and urogenitalis Dosage and treatment schedule: Following are the recommendations for treatment with CARNIVORA 9TM0: CARNIVORA (TM) 50 ml injectable solution I.V. infusion: 3 to 5 ml CARNIVORA (TM) diluted in 250 ml 0.9 % NaCL daily, Monday through Friday, In Glioblastomas dilution should be with 250 ml Mannitol 10% instead of NaCL. The duration of the infusion should be 2 to 3 hours. After 2 to 3 weeks, at the time when a sudden decrease of the total T cells indicates an overstimulation, the dosage has to be decreased and adjusted individually. In cases of urothel carcinomas instillations of 5 to l0 ml once per week help to prevent reoccurence, it applied up \353 I.M./ S.C. injections: After 4 weeks intensive I.V. treatment long term intramuscular or subcutaneous injections should follow. The dosage should also be adjusted according to the results of the immune monitoring and clinical relevant markers. According to my experience the mean maintenance dosage range B is between 1 and 2 ml s.c. or i.m. CARNIVORA (TM1 100 ml formulation) Oral application: Daily 3 to 5 times 50 drops before meals diluted in some water or tea. The oral formulation should be applied in case of all tumors of the intestinal tract together with i.v, i.m. or s.c. CARNIVORA (TM) treatment. Patients Suffering from lung or bronchial cancer should inhale true drops by means of a cold vaporizer ( no ultrasound ) 3 to 5 times per day,(Mix 2 ml of the oral formulation with 2 ml 0.9 % NaCL 3-5/day). In HIV related diarrhea the drops are of additional benefit, also the inhalations in case of Aspergillus and Candida infections. Dr. Med. Helmut Keller Medical Director Recommended Reading: Balch, J.: Prescription for Nutritional Healing, Avery Publishing Group Inc. Garden Park NewYork . Dostal, V.- et al.: Immunmonitoring and additive Immuntherapie, Hippokrates Verlag Stuttgart 1990 W-Germany Keller, H.-Venusfliegenfallen - Extrakt hilft gegen Krebs, Arztliche Praxis, XXXVII. Jahrgang Nr. 36 1985 Werk- Verlag Dr. E. Banaschewski 8 Munchen Grafelfing 1985 W- Germany Keller,H.- Acta Empirica 1985, Band 34 Heft6, June 1995, Krebstherapie mit einem pflanzlichen Wirkstoff-erst Erfahrungen mit einem neuen Phyto- onkologicum, Karl F. Haug Verlag GmbH & Co. 6900 Heidelberg W Germany Lane, W.-Sharks don\355t get cancer, Avery Publishing Group Inc. Garden Park, New York 1992. Wagner,H.-Structure elucidation of Plumbagin-analoges from Dionea Muscipula and their immunemodulating activities in vitro and in vivo. Sopron, Hungary August 24-27 1988 The CARNIYORA (TH) formulations can be ordered at the address Below . Prices: 50 ml CARNIVORA (TM) .......................injectable DM: $320.80 100 ml CARNIVORA (TM) drops ...........................DM: $177.55 shlpping fee DM: 30.00 is not included. Please make cheques payable to the address above. It is our policy to receive payment before goods are sent out. Fischer Manager Edgar Fischer, Manager Carnivora-Forschungs-GmbH Postfach 8, Lobensteiner Strasse 3 D-8646, Nordhalben, Germany Phone: 011-49-9267-1662 Fax: 011-49-9267-1040 *** END PART III *** Much greetings, Sam Vanderstraeten. ################### From: z_simkunasra@TITAN.SFASU.EDU Date: Fri, 05 Feb 1999 10:28:19 -0500 (CDT) Subject: Nepenthes species To all thoughs who know about Nepenthes, Which of these Nepenthes are highlanders or lowlanders? adnata, argentii, aristolochioides, borneensis, danseri, deaniana, diatas, eustachya, eynae, faizalliana, fallax, glabrata, hamata, lamii, lavicola, longifolia, macrophylla, mapuluensis, masoalensis, mikei, ovata, philippinensis, spathulata, sumatrana, talangensis, & tenuis. Sincerely, Robert Simkunas II ################### From: "David Bradley" Date: Sat, 6 Feb 1999 07:58:11 +1100 XSubject: Nepenthes species Hello everyone, I am brand new 2 the listserve, so thought I should do something about introducing myself. I live in Australia, in a small town called Bundanoon, located in the Southern Highlands of New South Wales. We are 680 metres above sea level, so we get some frosts & temps down 2 minus 6 degrees. With such conditions I grow the Sarracenia genus, along with the North American Droseras, the hardy D. binata complex, Utricularia, some South African Droseras, & the beautiful Heliamphoras. I find that my Sarras really do love the icy winters, as they flower the best after some good freezes, & my seeds come up like weeds, after being exposed 2 the numerous frosts. At present I grow my Sarracenias out in the open in a large trough, 6 cm deep. They love this outdoor posy, & tend 2 colour up very nicely & produce numerous offsets along the rhizomes. I do help them along by removing the old pitcher bases, which usually reveals the dormant buds, as well as the occasional notching here & there. Of late I have been getting in2 the S. rubra subspecies, as in the past I was more so interested in the S. flava complexes (2 which I still am, & I am always looking out 4 the rarer varieties & forms). The beautiful S. rubra ssp. alabamensis would have 2 be my fave one, as the Autumn pitchers are really something else. A bit of history about me. I first got in2 the c.p's when I was about 8 or 9 years old, with the trusty old ambassador, the Venus Flytrap! I was actually very lucky from the outset, & have never stopped since then. I didn't get in2 the Sarracenia Genus until I was about 13, having obtained my first S.X readii from the 'Big Banana' in Coffs Harbour. It went on 2 be a very healthy & dividable plant. At that stage I was living in Wollongong, on the coast of NSW. I was quite happy with this & a few weedy D.capensis alongside my robust D. muscipulas. I finally moved back 2 my home area of the Southern Highlands when I was 24, & that is when my passion really exploded! I am now 26 & have quite a few plants in my collection. Soon I will be moving 2 Bowral, close 2 the 'Babe country' of Robertson, & I will have access 2 a glasshouse! It will be my first time in such a structure, so it will be interesting 2 see how the plants like it. As I grow the hardy genera outdoors over Winter, I will leave it as a cool 2 cold greenhouse. It is quite exciting 2 say the least! I best sign off 4 now. I hope that I haven't bored too many people. I am looking 4ward 2 all of the hints & info that I will discover on the Listserve. By 4 now. Regards Nathan J.Clemens ################### From: Dave Date: Fri, 05 Feb 99 22:52 EST Subject: Re: drosera morphology Dear David, > I'm growing several Drosera montana v tomentosa (gawd, I hope I spelled it > right) via Fernando (thanks) and noticed that the flower stalk has dew on > the flower bracts and for a short distance just below the flowers. No dew > is present on the lower portion of the stalk. The fascinating part of this > is that the dew on the flower bracts has managed to catch some gnats. > Hopefully the same would not happen to the insect pollinator of choice in > its native Brazil. Would anyone like to offer an evolutionary explanation > for why this would evolve. A nearby Drosera brevifolia, which produces dew > on the entire flower stalk, has not caught any insects on the flower stalk. Well, I have seen bugs getting caught on some flower stem of D. brevifolia. But they did not appear to have been digest, just stuck. I suppose that your question could be answered like this: The pollinator of this plant, D. montana v. tomentosa knows better than to get caught on the flower stalk, while insects with whom the plant doesn't have such an intimate relationship (like pests) don't know and therefore get caught. Dave E ################### From: ricell@juno.com Date: Fri, 5 Feb 1999 18:42:31 -0700 Subject: Re: Nepenthes species On Fri, 5 Feb 1999 08:42:39 -0800 z_simkunasra@TITAN.SFASU.EDU writes: >To all thoughs who know about Nepenthes, > > Which of these Nepenthes are highlanders or lowlanders? > Since I happened to have Jebb & Cheek next to the computer I thought these might help. Lowlanders are generally considered to grow below 1000m and highlanders above 1000m. obviously there is some degree of "intermediate" but the highland lowland concept can be useful if not taken too seriously. adnata, 100-1000m argentii, 1400m aristolochioides, 2000-2200m borneensis, 1300-1880m danseri, 0-300m diatas, 2400-2600m eustachya, 0-1600m eymae, 1500-1800m glabrata, 1600-2000m hamata, 1400-2500m lamii, 1460-3520m macrophylla, 2000-2600m mapuluensis, 700-800m masoalensis, 30-400m mikei, 1100-2400m ovata,1800m spathulata, 1500-2100m sumatrana, 0-1000m Rich Ellis, Boulder, CO "ricell@juno.com" http://www.geocities.com/RainForest/Vines/8564/ ################### From: "Jens Rotthauwe" Date: Sat, 6 Feb 1999 17:16:45 +0100 Subject: Proboscidea and Ibicella seeds Hello List ! I am looking for seeds of any varieties of Proboscidea and Ibicella. I can offer Drosophyllum, VFT, Darlingtonia and maybe some other seeds for trade. Thanks for your help ! Kind regards Jens ___________________________________ Jens Rotthauwe uzsb09@uni-bonn.de Im Jagdfeld 61 53125 GERMANY [HTML file part2 deleted by listprocessor] ################### From: "Jure Slatner" Date: Sat, 6 Feb 1999 17:39:49 +0100 Subject: Re: Toetmoelk Hello, Peter Cole wrote: >Perhaps you're supposed to use reindeer milk - who knows?) but I believe Ta"tmio"lk is the Lapp word for it >there's a passing reference to it in SLACK -Carnivorous Plants.) I've not heard of the other names. I find names Toetmoelk and Filmjo"lk in Juniper, Robins, Joel - Carnivorous Plants: 'The Leaves of Pinguicula, as they were once in Britain, are still used by the Lapps to curdle and thicken milk, producing Toetmoelk or Filmjo"lk.' Is there any British name for it? Bon appetit, Jure Slatner ################### From: Kurt Gereck Date: Sat, 6 Feb 1999 11:54:06 -0800 Subject: Allen Lowrie's germination methods. I am searching for the instructions Allen Lowrie included in one of his 98' catalogs on his efficient ways of germinating different seed species, primarily on Heliamphora. If anyone has this information, or knows where to find it, I would greatly appreciate the spreading of knowledge. ################### From: strega@split.it (Tassara) Date: Sat, 6 Feb 1999 21:20:35 +0100 Subject: D.stenopetala germination Hi to everybody! Does anyone have any positive experience in germinating seeds of Drosera stenopetala? I've tried several manners, but none seems to work. Thank you! Filippo Tassara Genova, Italy ################### From: Dionaea@aol.com Date: Sat, 6 Feb 1999 17:51:11 EST Subject: D. erythrorhiza var. imbecilia Question to anyone who can help: Lowrie has a variety of D. erythrorhiza listed as "imbecilia." Can someone tell me how this plant differs from the others? Is this a smaller plant than the others? Thanks. Christoph ################### From: "Mark and Karen" Date: Sun, 7 Feb 1999 13:21:09 +0000 Subject: Carnivorous passionfruit Greetings all, Forgive me if this subject has already been covered but I'm looking for a copy from 'The Journal of Bio. Sciences' Vol. 20 1995 pages 657 - 664 entitled 'Defence and Carnivorey, Dual Role of Bracts in Passiflora foetida' by T.R. Radhamanim. Thanks in advance Mark ----------------------------------------- Mark and Karen (marked@xtra.co.nz) 8 Rugby Street, Levin, New Zealand ----------------------------------------- ################### From: nile smith Date: Sun, 07 Feb 1999 00:28:21 +0000 Subject: Wanted: Utricularia gibba nile smith nxs@postmark.net Hello, Does anybody here in the U.S.A. have a sprig or two of U. gibba they would be willing to sell to me? I'd also be interested in buying any other kind of aquatic, but mainly U. gibba. I'd appreciate any help. Thanks, Nile Smith nxs@postmark.net P.S. If you can help, please respond to my e-mail address. ################### From: Joe and Kathy Mazrimas Date: Sat, 06 Feb 1999 17:21:14 +0000 Subject: How to order Lowrie's book Many folks asked how to order the long-awaited book by Lowrie. This is one way to get it. I just did the following. First the facts: Title:Carnivorous Plants of Australia Vol 111, paperback. Allen Lowrie ISBN: 187 556 0599 Pub: International Specialized Book Services, Jan 1999. Then, search on the internet for Barnesandnoble.com and under search mode you just need to use the ISBN above. His book will come up, put it in your shopping cart and check out. Checkout is easy, only name, address and e-mail is required. I preferred to give my credit card number by phone and that is an option. Phone 1-800-843-2665 after placing your order. Book will arrive in 3-5 weeks. Each copy costs $62.40 which includes handling and shipping. Remember, Vol 1 and 2 are out of print! ################### From: "Scott Mcphee" Date: Sat, 6 Feb 1999 19:19:01 -0800 Subject: Ping moranensis Greetings folks, I am having something interesting happen with my Ping. moranensis 'G'. I purchsed one from Cal Carnivores in August of 97. Last year the dormancy consisted of a modest reduction in leaf size and lack of glands. This year, the plant is forming tight winter succulent rosettes. I have taken it out of the water now to prevent rot. I do not think that the cause of dormancy in this case is the enviornment in which the plant is located because I propagated it last year and now have four other plants that have not behaved this way, and all the moranensis are located next to each other. I am thinking that it has to do more with the fact that it is now a six growth plant in the two inch pot. Any one else have this happen? Any thoughts on this?? Regards, Scott Mcphee in rainy N. California ################### From: Stephen Davis Date: Sat, 06 Feb 1999 21:21:59 -0800 Subject: Re: Wanted: Utricularia gibba Nile,\\ I would not even think of selling it to you. It grows so easily I've had 2 people give me pieces of it. Give my your addres and I'd be glad to send you some. If you have any spares of aquatics I'd be interested in a trade. Otherwise I'll just send it and hope you help someone else some day like some people have been so kind to me. :-) Stephen Davis nile smith wrote: > nile smith > nxs@postmark.net > > Hello, > > Does anybody here in the U.S.A. have a > sprig or two of U. gibba they would be > willing to sell to me? I'd also be interested > in buying any other kind of aquatic, but > mainly U. gibba. I'd appreciate any > help. Thanks, > > Nile Smith > nxs@postmark.net > > P.S. If you can help, please respond > to my e-mail address. -- Stephen Davis [V-Card file stephend.vcf deleted by listprocessor] ################### From: Kevin Snively Date: Sun, 7 Feb 1999 03:08:13 -0800 Subject: Another new Cp book Has any one seen this book yet Title Carnivorous Plants Author Camilleri, Tony ISBN 0864179170 Publisher Kangaroo Press Pub. Date 01/19/99 Binding Trade Paper Pages 96 Can you tell us a bit about it? krs ################### From: Phil Wilson Date: Fri, 5 Feb 1999 21:17:02 +0000 Subject: Re: 3 Q's: gemmae, seedlings and hybrids In message <199902050018.QAA04138@hplms26.hpl.hp.com>, Dave writes >Dear Phil W. > >> >Q3: When making a hybrid cross between Sarracenia species, does it >> >make a difference in the offspring which plant produces the seed? >> > >> Not as far as I know. There is probably a convention as to which plant >> (the plant bearing the pollen or the plant bearing the seed) is listed >> first but I can't remember which way round it is. > > The seed bearing plant (mother) is the one listed first. As >for the first question, it does matter for some plants, but CP'ers >haven't come up much definative data on for CP's yet. If there >is anyone who might be able to add info, I reckon that would be >Phil Sheridan, who has done alot of breeding experiments with >Sarracenia. > As I understand genetics the only thing that matters is whether a particular gene effecting a certain characteristic is recessive or dominant. I can't see how the seed bearer has any influence on this. I don't claim to be any sort of expert in this field and as so I am aware that I am probably standing on fairly shaky ground! At least I'm happy to accept that its probably no where near as straightforward that that. :-) Regards, Phil Wilson Email: cp@pwilson.demon.co.uk Web Site: www.pwilson.demon.co.uk ################### From: "David Bradley" Date: Sun, 7 Feb 1999 22:21:05 +1100 XSubject: Re: 3 Q's: gemmae, seedlings and hybrids Dear Kevin Snively I can shed some light on the new book by the Australian author Tony Camilleri, as it is in my collection. Be4 I go on, U can get copies through the Australian Carnivorous Plant Society, if U are a member. Check their website out on http://www.camtech.net.au/acps. The book is 104 pages, A4 size, soft cover, & published by Kangaroo Press, of the Viacom Company, in Sydney, New York, London, Toronto, Tokyo & Singapore. It was on sale on the 10th of October, 1998, in my town of Bowral, NSW. Tony is a member of the Victorian Carnivorous Plant Society, & I have seen his listserve messages whilst viewing past listings, so he must be on line. The book is very impressive, as it is chock full of A4 size & smaller (100 2 be exact) colour photos of very good quality & clarity. The book covers the following Genera: 1. Dionaea 2. Drosera 3. Byblis 4. Aldrovanda 5. Sarracenia 6. Darlingtonia 7. Cephalotus 8. Nepenthes 9. Pinguicula 10. Utricularia It also has a section on various cultivation methods, as well as pests & diseases, societies, nurseries & a total liisting of known cp's. Well worth adding 2 one's collection, as it presents very well & is a good overview & introduction 2 cp's (It discusses the various Genera & gives brief cultural directions). I hope that this will give U a better idea of the book. I wish U luck in locating a copy or two. Regards Nathan Clemens sundew@mitmania.net.au ################### From: "~`~ TomsRarePlants~`~" Date: Sun, 7 Feb 1999 08:00:09 -0000 Subject: CEPHALOTUS PLANTS GREETINGS Hi any one have Cephalotus for sale or trade ? Thanks Tom frittsmb@msn.com ################### From: Hayes7@aol.com Date: Sun, 7 Feb 1999 08:26:50 EST Subject: Re: CEPHALOTUS PLANTS Dear Tom & List, > Hi any one have Cephalotus for sale or trade ? ################### From: Hayes7@aol.com Date: Sun, 7 Feb 1999 08:40:04 EST Subject: Re: CEPHALOTUS PLANTS; take two! Dear Tom & List, Perhaps I should get some viagra, I seem to suffer from premature "sending messages" :) Actually I should wait until after I get some caffeine to touch the keyboard..... > Hi any one have Cephalotus for sale or trade ? I have lots of small ceph plants available for either sale or trade. Anyone interested can drop me e-mail for more info. Tom Hayes DANGEROUS PLANTS ################### From: "John Odum" Date: Sun, 07 Feb 1999 06:12:26 PST Subject: S.purpureae Water Hello All, I'm sorry if this question has been covered before. I have searched through the achives for an answer with no success. I have a few recently acquired S.purpureae that appear to be doing quite well. Both have produced new growth and have begun to develope some red coloration. My question is, should the pitchers occasionaly be flushed with clean water? Due to there structure it would seem that this would happen when growing outside with rain. I was also wondering how full the pitchers should be? When filling the trays I use DI water with all of my plants. This is my first experience with any Sarracenia, but I deffinately look to acquring more in the future. Thanks. John Odum ################### From: Peter Keller Date: Sun, 07 Feb 1999 09:18:17 +0000 Subject: Cp Books This message is just asking a favor. I maintain a web site for retired firefighters and have a page linked to Barnes and Noble. Any orders through this site will result in a 5% return which will be used to support our older retiree's (pre-71) who retired without benefits (eye glasses, dental etc.) Any assistance would be appreciated. the URL is below. -- Peter F. Keller pkeller@suffolk.lib.ny.us pfk6@juno.com http://www.hoflink.com/~scarf ################### From: "Michael Hunt" Date: Sun, 7 Feb 1999 09:30:59 -0500 Subject: Re:Carnivorous Plants by Tony Camilleri Kevin, Adding to Nathan's comments on the book Carnivorous Plants. Its well worth the price of under $20.00 in the U.S. I obtained my copy from the Book Shop at Selby Botanical Gardens in Sarasota Fl. They do ship. The phone number is (941) 366- 5731 ext. 44. Also they currently have a couple copies of Nepenthes Of Boreno by Charles Clarke, which is IMO the absolute best book written on the Boreno plants to date! And the price has dropped on this by $20.00. It is a hard book to get, so hurry. :-) Take care, ~Mike -----Original Message----- To: Multiple recipients of list >Dear Kevin Snively > I can shed some light on the new book by the Australian author Tony >Camilleri, >as it is in my collection. Be4 I go on, U can get copies through the >Australian Carnivorous Plant Society, if U are a member. Check their >website out on http://www.camtech.net.au/acps. > The book is 104 pages, A4 size, soft cover, & published by Kangaroo >Press, of the Viacom Company, in Sydney, New York, London, Toronto, Tokyo >& Singapore. It was on sale on the 10th of October, 1998, in my town of >Bowral, NSW. > Tony is a member of the Victorian Carnivorous Plant Society, & I have >seen his listserve messages whilst viewing past listings, so he must be on >line. The book is very impressive, as it is chock full of A4 size & >smaller (100 2 be exact) colour photos of very good quality & clarity. The > ################### From: Hayes7@aol.com Date: Sun, 7 Feb 1999 09:34:47 EST Subject: Re: The Carow CP calendar - LAST CALL Dear list, Last Call for orders - They are being ordered Monday the 8th. No more exceptions as I don't want to keep the people who already ordered waiting :) > The volunteer for collective orders in the USA is: -snip- I realize that the calendar page is very slow to load, but the size and quality of the pictures makes up for the wait. (Thanks Andreas!) Thomas K. Hayes DANGEROUS PLANTS www.tcscs.com/~thayes ################### From: "david ahrens" Date: Sun, 07 Feb 1999 06:47:17 PST Subject: David Ahrens Re: self-introduction I first got into cp's by being a VFT murderer at the age of ten years, the usual route into the hobby. Ten years ago , I tracked down a supplier of flytraps in a book published for buying plants difficult to find. The nursery told me how easy they were to grow, and so I thought that I would have a go. Untill recently I have had a collection of Sarracenias, nepenthes, heliamphora, and a few drosera. I have had to leave most of the collection with a friend for a few years , untill I can buy somewhere where I can erect another greenhouse. I am actively involved in the British society, and in the last few years I have attended the conferences in Atlanta and Bonn regards David Ahrens nepenthesdave@hotmail.com ################### From: "Kenneth Low" Date: Sun, 7 Feb 1999 23:02:10 +0800 Subject: Book Dear All, Well, about the Carnivorous plants book by Toni Camelleri has nice fully coloured pics of CPs(my favourtie is the Utrics in the wild blooming across the grow covering with a mass of purple stalks) and inside includes total listing of the CPs. The photography i must admit is magnificent! It has divided chapter of different species of CPs and also a guide on how to care, potting mix, type of light the plant require, watering the the type of pots the plant require. On a Aldrovanda section, it teaches you how to care it by produsing carbon dioxide, carbon dioxide increases the grow rate. There is also an illustrated map on where can you find the specific plants. Well, an interesting book and useful for people who want to cultivate plants like these! Recommended! Great book! Clayton [HTML file part2 deleted by listprocessor] ################### From: Angie Nichols Date: Sun, 07 Feb 1999 11:19:48 -0800 Subject: another new CP book Hi Kevin. Being a sucker for any new publication on CP, since there aren't very many, I ordered the book from amazon.com for around $l6.00. It has alot of nice 8 1/2" by 11" photographs and offers growing instructions. I consider it a nice addition to my CP library but I continue to think of Slack's book as my CP bible and D'amato's book as my CP encyclopedia. Angie Nichols, SC. ################### From: Davidogray@aol.com Date: Sun, 7 Feb 1999 15:12:23 EST Subject: An Introducion/ reintroduction Hello to everyone, my name is David O'Hollaren Gray and I am happy to be back after a two year hiatus. I'm 39, live in San Francisco and have had a life- long interest in natural history -- my first words were 'pretty flower' ( it was a Cattleya ). I have grown CP since the age of 12, but unlike almost everyone else, I think my first plant was a Darlingtonia which is common enough in my native Oregon. I after gathering and dispersing a large collection a couple of times, I have now decided to develop my serious interest in Nepenthes. I have a B.S. in Horticulture and experience with a wide variety of exotic and hardy plants; I have also served on the boards of plant societies and organizations in Oregon. But more to the purpose here; I have been doing what I can to help organize the ICPS Conference 2000 in San Francisco. Those interested in attending the organizing meeting to be held Sat. Feb. 13 at !:00 p.m. at the Berkeley Botanical Garden meeting rooms should e-mail me for an agenda ( if you didn't already get one ). We will certainly post a brief report from that meeting, here and I hope to update the conference web page soon after. We have lots of great new ideas for this conference, So I hope you will all keep the latter part of May 2000 or late June free. Enough of the sermon, I really am exited about the way my Nepenthes are responding to my "growth chamber"; the foliage color and trap production is magnificent ( if I do say so myself ). I grow mostly highland hybrids ( ! ) and h/l species with an eye to eventually developing hybrids that might be suitable as a "windowsill Nepenthes". I welcome e-mail correspondence on any of these topics Thanks, good growing, and Cheers, David O. Gray davidogray@aol.com ################### From: Olivier Marthaler Date: Sun, 07 Feb 1999 21:34:53 +0100 Subject: Re: Swiss CP annual meeting/exhibition, June99 7 February, 1999 Hi everybody, If some of you still don't know the new Botanic Garden of Neuch\342tel University, in Switzerland, there will be a great opportunity to discover it this June. (BTW, Neuch\342tel is right between Zurich and Geneva, for those who had a D in Geography!) The Swiss meeting for CP freaks will take place there, instead of Dulliken where it was held these past years. Don't worry, most activities will be bilingual or trilingual, as French, German and English will be spoken on that occasion. Besides the very exhibition, there will be place for swapping, selling, discussing, eating and drinking! Among loads of various species, a few RARITIES will be displayed for one of the first times ever: -Nepenthes ARISTOLOCHIOIDES, -Nepenthes sp. Kemiri, -... and 2 new highland Nep. species discovered in the Philippines last year by some buddies of mine + myself. Obviously they won't be adult plants, as even if in-vitro's grow fairly fast, you can't do miracles with ARISTOLOCHIOIDES in 2 1/2 years!!! Among CP "VIP", Joachim Nerz, Andreas Wistuba from Germany will attend and present a slide show on Sunday 20 June, Jacques Boulay from France will also talk ab. CP on Saturday. So welcome all of you in June, and cheers to loads of good friends round the world I haven't kept in touch with personally lately! More news later! Olivier, below more than one metre of snow at the moment! ################### From: Barry Meyers-Rice Date: Sun, 7 Feb 1999 12:27:34 -0800 (PST) Subject: Ibicella >Hello List ! >I am looking for seeds of any varieties of Proboscidea and Ibicella. >I can offer Drosophyllum, VFT, Darlingtonia and maybe some other >seeds for trade. Thanks for your help ! Kind regards Jens Ibicella seeds are available for $1/pack to ICPS members. Follow the links to the seedbank from www.carnivorousplants.org Barry ------------------------ Dr. Barry A. Meyers-Rice Carnivorous Plant Newsletter Conservation Coeditor barry@carnivorousplants.org http://www.carnivorousplants.org ################### From: Barry Meyers-Rice Date: Sun, 7 Feb 1999 16:51:07 -0800 (PST) Subject: Web Ring Hey folks, I'm really pleased to see the interest in the Web Ring! Already within just a few days we have a functioning ring of sites. More people apply every day! We have not formulated a precise set of requirements that a web site must have in order to be approved for the web ring. However, there are a few general guidelines for you web masters to remember when submitting a site. 1)Make sure the page you want to link to the web ring is your CP page. We all have other interests, but those aren't really relevent to the *CP* web ring. You can always have a link on your CP page to "More about me", that the surfer can follow to find out about those interests you have in aerial kite photography, etc etc. But don't register your home site with the Web Ring if surfers would have to follow a link or two to get to the real CP area! 2)Pages filled mostly with promises of content to come aren't quite up to standard either. Get that site ready *before* submitting it to the web ring. 3)Polish that site! Remove broken links, try to clean up the spelling, and have a nonconfusing navigational structure. We aren't trying to snub anyone with the web ring, rather we want to keep a high standard to make it a great surfing experience for everyone concerned! Get that site ready, and submit it to the Ring!!! Cheers Barry ------------------------ Dr. Barry A. Meyers-Rice Carnivorous Plant Newsletter Conservation Coeditor barry@carnivorousplants.org http://www.carnivorousplants.org ################### From: Stephen Davis Date: Sun, 07 Feb 1999 21:35:02 -0800 Subject: Re: Ibicella Barry, Are the Ibicella seeds still there? Last I saw, the ICPS seed bank was out, but the page hasn't been updated since Jan 2. I know because I sent a message to confirm some seeds I wanted and ended up with a kind reply that nearly half were already gone. Looks like we need to replenish the bank. I'm sending some misc. Drosera seed with my order to help. Stephen Davis Barry Meyers-Rice wrote: > >Hello List ! > > >I am looking for seeds of any varieties of Proboscidea and Ibicella. > >I can offer Drosophyllum, VFT, Darlingtonia and maybe some other > >seeds for trade. Thanks for your help ! Kind regards Jens > > Ibicella seeds are available for $1/pack to ICPS members. Follow the links > to the seedbank from www.carnivorousplants.org > > Barry > > ------------------------ > Dr. Barry A. Meyers-Rice > Carnivorous Plant Newsletter > Conservation Coeditor > barry@carnivorousplants.org > http://www.carnivorousplants.org -- Stephen Davis [V-Card file stephend.vcf deleted by listprocessor] ################### From: "Chris Hind" Date: Sun, 07 Feb 1999 23:34:14 PST Subject: Drosera and Indian Dyes I'm taking a class in ethnobotany called Edible, Medicinal, and Poisenous plants and in the book it states that Drosera sps. - Sundew can be used as a permanent red dye for clothing. Does anyone have any further information on this? Are there any other carnivorous plants that feature dye properties? ################### From: "Chris Hind" Date: Sun, 07 Feb 1999 23:34:27 PST Subject: Edible Ibicella I've been told you can cook like a vegetable or pickle and eat premature Ibicella lutea Devil's Claws? Does anyone else know of any other edible carnivorous (or subcarnivorous) plants? Any edible sundews? ################### From: Davidogray@aol.com Date: Mon, 8 Feb 1999 03:00:08 EST Subject: Re: inheritance of characteristics Regarding whether or not it matters which parent is female ( or male ) There are two other kinds of inheritance besides simple dominant/recessive -- there is incomplete dominance ( or qualitative characteristics ) such as the intensity of coloring in flowers and leaves; and there is mitochondrial DNA and some factors passed on this way are heavily influenced by the female parent. I don't know of any specific genes that have been identified in CP, but perhaps someone in genetic sciences will respond with more information. Cheers, David >As I understand genetics the only thing that matters is whether a >particular gene effecting a certain characteristic is recessive or >dominant. I can't see how the seed bearer has any influence on this. ################### From: "Malesiana Tropicals" Date: Mon, 08 Feb 1999 14:56:54 +0800 Subject: Web Page Update Greetings all! Just wanted to let everyone know that our website has been updated today with a dozen new Nepenthes photographs, including N. gymnamphora (the 'true' form from Java) and N. densiflora. Enjoy! Cheers, Ch'ien Lee Malesiana Tropicals www.malesiana.tropicals.com.my ################### From: "Richard Jenkins" Date: Mon, 08 Feb 1999 00:24:00 PST Subject: D. stenopetala germination Hi Filippo and All, I managed to get some germination from D. stenopetala seeds last year. I sowed seed under differing conditions to determine the best approach. Essentially the only germination (10%) that occurred was from seeds sown on pure peat and left in my greenhouse (Northern UK climate). Stratification or sowing seeds into water was unsuccesful. Patience is necessary as germination took 6 months. Richard ################### From: "Richard Jenkins" Date: Mon, 08 Feb 1999 00:28:17 PST Subject: Camilleri book Dear All, I agree with everyone else that this book has superb photos but am I the only one to find it frustrating that many of them, particularly the pings, are described as, for example, _Another new species of ping_ rather than by their species name? I'd also say that the book is a good introductory book but a more experienced grower might prefer D'Amato's book. Richard ################### From: nile smith Date: Mon, 08 Feb 1999 08:54:08 +0000 Subject: A bug's life (and death) nile smith nxs@postmark.net I don't know if this is an appropriate contribution, but I was just considering carnivorous plants from a bug's point of view. Little bug, alas, is doomed To suffer fate extreme Lured by taste of nectar sweet Upon the verdant sheen Further up the leaf it climbs To claim it's prize obscene Until, at last, it's tiny soul Has fallen to the green Sorry if this "bugs" anyone. :} Nile Smith nxs@postmark.net ################### From: "nigel hurneyman" Date: Mon, 08 Feb 1999 02:55:26 PST Subject: Anthocyanins Out (off-topic?) I am trying to discover or breed an anthocyanin-free form of a non-carnivore (heresy!). Does anyone know why anthocyanin-free forms arise, or has anyone noticed anything unusual about the conditions in which anthocyanin-free forms appear, eg Darlintonia 'Othello', the heterophyllous S purpureas and Drosera capensis 'alba'. Thanks in advance for your help, NigelH ################### From: "Stefan Ploszak" Date: Mon, 08 Feb 1999 04:20:09 PST Subject: Re: Sarracenia hybrids >>> >Q3: When making a hybrid cross between Sarracenia species, does it >>> >make a difference in the offspring which plant produces the seed? >>> > >>> Not as far as I know. There is probably a convention as to which plant >>> (the plant bearing the pollen or the plant bearing the seed) is listed >>> first but I can't remember which way round it is. I posed this very question to a well known, but modest Sarracenia hybridizing expert. He finds that a seedling's appearance isn't influenced by which parent is the pollen donor/seed barer. Hybrids are simply intermediates of each parent. Selfing an F1 hybrid produces seedlings which tend toward either parent and everything in between. My understanding of the convention for listing a hybrid is that the seed barer is listed first. If it is not known which parent is the seed barer, the parents are listed in alphabetical order. With the mild weather we're having my thoughts are on hybridizing Sarracenia, but no flower stalks yet. Spring is near, Stefan ################### From: "Mellard, David" Date: Mon, 8 Feb 1999 07:36:06 -0500 Subject: RE: drosera morphology >The pollinator of this plant, D. montana v. tomentosa knows better >than to get caught on the flower stalk, while insects with whom the >plant doesn't have such an intimate relationship (like pests) don't >know and therefore get caught. grin, like your reasoning Dave. ################### From: "Susan Farrington" Date: Mon, 8 Feb 1999 06:47:32 +0000 Subject: St Louis ICPS Chapter meeting We'll be holding our rescheduled second meeting of the St. Louis chapter of ICPS this Thursday, Feb 11 at 7 pm at the Missouri Botanical Garden. I'll be showing slides of cp's in their native habitats, and we'll discuss some basic care and cultivation of cp's. All are welcome, beginners or experienced growers alike. Let me know if you are interested! Susan Farrington Missouri Botanical Garden susan.farrington@mobot.org (314)577-9402 ################### From: Loyd Wix Date: 08 Feb 1999 13:34:53 Z Subject: More on Pinguicula fermentation Dear Jure, >I find names Toetmoelk and Filmjo"lk in Juniper, Robins, >Joel - Carnivorous Plants: 'The Leaves of Pinguicula, as >they were once in Britain, are still used by the Lapps to >curdle and thicken milk, producing Toetmoelk or Filmjo"lk.' >Is there any British name for it? Cheese! As far as I am aware the use of Pinguicula in parts of the UK was as a 'vegetable rennet' to make cheese. Traditionally cheese was produced by adding rennet (an enzyme extracted from a calf's stomach) to milk. The rennet has a specific action on the milk protein casein, removing small fractions from it which causes it to curdle and thicken up. The resultant mixture is cut in order to separate the curds and whey ( as in the nursery rhyme) - the curds are then pressed together to form cheese. But what happens if you are in the middle of no where (Snowdonia for example) with lots of milk by no calf to slaughter for the stomach? This is where Pinguicula leaves were also used to facilitate in separating the curds and whey to produce cheese. On the one occasion I tried Pinguicula fermentation it went down this 'cheese' route rather than the tatmjolk route. I reconstituted whole milk from skimmed milk powder, dairy cream and water. This was homogenised to disperse the fat and then pasteurised (HTST 83 deg C, 20 seconds). The milk left the chilled section of the pasteuriser at 4deg C and was passed through a sieve containing P.grandiflora leaves and into a sterile milk churn. Over a period of 5 days the material became steadily thicker until a cheese type curd was produced. I saw no sign of the ropeyness characteristic of tatmjolk. I suspect that the curds were formed by low temperature microbial activity rather than anything enzymatic from the plant. Such a process for making cheese would have similar health risks as per my previous message so be careful! Oh and for cheese lovers everywhere most cheese these days uses microbial rennets rather than calf's stomach! Bonn appetite Loyd ################### From: "Mellard, David" Date: Mon, 8 Feb 1999 08:52:05 -0500 Subject: RE: Anthocyanins Out (off-topic?) >I am trying to discover or breed an anthocyanin-free form of a >non-carnivore (heresy!). Does anyone know why anthocyanin-free forms >arise, or has anyone noticed anything unusual about the conditions in >which anthocyanin-free forms appear, eg Darlintonia 'Othello', the >heterophyllous S purpureas and Drosera capensis 'alba'. Hi Nigel, Anthocyanin production in Sarracenia involves two pathways that start with the 2-carbon molecule acetic acid. Once the pathways merge, 5 enzymes are responsible for producing the anthocyanin pigment. A mutation that inactivates any of the 5 molecules will produce an anthocyanin-free plant. Cultural conditions can also affect anthocyanin production, although I don't think it's know exactly why (or how) it interrupts anthocyanin production. I suspect that a mutation earlier in one of the two pathways before they merge will affect the amount of anthocyanin produced thus affecting coloration. For instance, if one of the two pathways is inactivated, the plant has only 1 of the early pathways to use in producing anthocyanin. This results in a smaller amount of anthocyanin and hence less color. Smaller amounts of anthocyanin production can probably happen with mutations after the pathways merge if an enzyme is produced that is only partially efficient in converting the pre-anthocyanin molecule to the next molecule in the pathway. It would be interesting to breed the anthocyanin-free form of S. purpurea venosa that ABG recently released with the anthocyanin-free form of S. purpurea purpurea. Since they evolved in different locations, there's a good chance that the mutations are on different genes. If normal color purpurea were produced from that cross, you've just proved that the genetic mutations are on different genes and hence involve different enzymes. Chromatography will also give this answer because you can see which enzymes are missing. I have both plants and hope someday to cross them when they bloom. You could do this with any Sarr antho-free forms, too. Now, I've just given someone a very nice CPN article if your plants are more mature than mine. CPN had a nice article on anthocyanin production in 1998. I have it on file and will send it to you if you send me a private reply. David Atlanta ################### From: Chris Teichreb Date: Mon, 8 Feb 1999 09:36:19 -0800 (PST) Subject: Re: Edible Ibicella Hi Chris, > I've been told you can cook like a vegetable or pickle and eat premature > Ibicella lutea Devil's Claws? Does anyone else know of any other edible > carnivorous (or subcarnivorous) plants? Any edible sundews? > > They're all edible, whether or not they taste good (or are poisonous) is another thing. I do know that N.American Indians used to use S.purpurea for a myriad of ailments, same with D.rotundifolia. Most of the time, the roots, or entire plant, was boiled down, however I wouldn't be surprised if the occasional leaf was eaten as well. No offence Chris, but I wouldn't think of inviting you over to my place. I like my plants too much to have them eaten by someone ;)! Happy growing (or eating!) Chris ********************************** Chris Teichreb Department of Biological Sciences Simon Fraser University Burnaby, B.C. cjteichr@sfu.ca ********************************** ################### From: "Kelley, Ian" Date: Mon, 8 Feb 1999 09:47:17 -0800 Subject: RE: Ping moranensis YES! I purchased the same plant from CC in spring of '98 in a 2" pot. The leaves were overflowing the edges, and I plan to repot this month - mine is doing the exact same thing, the large, floppy leaves are dying off, leaving a tight bud with what looks like 40 small leaflets. I couldn't tell if this was succulent dormancy or a burst of fresh growth, since I'd read of but never seen the succulent phenomenon. I keep this plant indoors year round, so any dormancy would likely be brought on by photoperiod rather than temperature - at any rate, I'm leaving mine in the water to see what will happen, although I'll take it out at first sign of distress. I sure don't know why this happens, I am a babe in the Ping woods. Let me know what happens with yours, I'm repotting mine in a couple of weeks.... - Ian Kelley rainy, rainy San Francisco > -----Original Message----- > From: Scott Mcphee [SMTP:hyphae@email.msn.com] > Sent: Saturday, February 06, 1999 7:27 PM > To: Multiple recipients of list > Subject: Ping moranensis > > Greetings folks, > > I am having something interesting happen with my Ping. moranensis 'G'. > I > purchsed one from Cal Carnivores in August of 97. Last year the > dormancy > consisted of a modest reduction in leaf size and lack of glands. This > year, > the plant is forming tight winter succulent rosettes. I have taken it > out of > the water now to prevent rot. > > I do not think that the cause of dormancy in this case is the > enviornment in > which the plant is located because I propagated it last year and now > have > four other plants that have not behaved this way, and all the > moranensis are > located next to each other. > > I am thinking that it has to do more with the fact that it is now a > six > growth plant in the two inch pot. Any one else have this happen? Any > thoughts on this?? > > Regards, > > Scott Mcphee in rainy N. California > > ################### From: Christer Berglund Date: Mon, 08 Feb 1999 19:11:57 +0100 Subject: nep deformation and pitchers Hi People, I've read in the book Savage Garden (section about tissue culture) that it's common for nepenthes grown on to much cytokinin to suffer from deformation, like gnarled shoots or profusion of axillary buds. Now I wonder if a plant with this problem is damaged permanently, or if it in time will return to normal growth? I have a N. singalana which behaved a little strange some time ago. At first it grew some nice pitchers, but on the next two leaves the pitcher development stopped. Then the plant grew some more leaves with pitchers. Suddenly about one month later, the "dormant" tendril of one of the older leaves developed a pitcher. It was minute compared to all the others, but still... Anyone else encountered "delayed" pitcher development? Regards, -- Christer Berglund E-mail: christer.berglund@amiga.pp.se ################### From: Dave Date: Mon, 08 Feb 99 14:33 EST Subject: Re: Drosera and Indian Dyes Dear Chris, > I'm taking a class in ethnobotany called Edible, Medicinal, and > Poisenous plants and in the book it states that Drosera sps. - Sundew > can be used as a permanent red dye for clothing. Does anyone have any > further information on this? Are there any other carnivorous plants that > feature dye properties? I'm not sure if this is what you're looking for, but I noticed that water turns adark blue when Byblis liniflora seeds are added. Some sort of coating on the seeds... Dave E ################### From: "John Green" Date: Mon, 08 Feb 1999 13:23:49 -0700 Subject: Re: 3 Q's: gemmae, seedlings and hybrids Thanks for all the helpful comments regarding my original posting. I understand now why some of the gemmae I received a week ago (thanks Kamil) were already growing (I'm not complaining!) As for the Sarracenia seedlings, I wish I were having as much success as some of you. I tried a bunch last year and only have two Red-tube flavas that are still surviving. I think my troubles may have more to do with the harsh, dry climate here than anything else. I'll try pushing the seeds into the soil just a bit as Phil Wilson suggested, but I wonder; do the seeds need light to germinate? Thanks again, John Green Salt Lake City, Utah ################### From: "Mellard, David" Date: Mon, 8 Feb 1999 15:36:53 -0500 Subject: RE: 3 Q's: gemmae, seedlings and hybrids >I wonder; do the seeds need light to germinate? Yes, Sarr seed need light to germinate. The brighter, the warmer, the better. You might still get germination if a very thin layer of soil covers the seed because light penetrates soil for a short distance but it's better not to cover the seed. David Atlanta ################### From: Phil Wilson Date: Mon, 8 Feb 1999 21:05:01 +0000 Subject: bamrice@ucdavis.edu Barry, Just had a quick look through your web site and I notice the address for the IPSG is incorrect. It should read: 14, Rope Walk Martock Somerset TA12 6HZ England You had the postal town of Somerton which was part of my previous address! Its no big deal since the crucial part of the address is the post code. Next time you are updating the site will be fine for the correction. Also I notice that the link from the Carnivorous Plant Database to Other CP Links is broken. I can't remember who actually runs this site now but maybe you could pass the message on. On a different but related subject (it was why I wanted to look at the CP links site) I am looking for some specific CPs for the UK CPS year 2000 Chelsea Flower Show display. Specifically I am looking for South American Drosera species - D. villosa mainly but any others would be welcome too. Part of the display will feature CPs from every continent that they are present in and we are particularly short of sundews from South America. If you have any ideas (I still have to tackle the obvious source - Fernando) perhaps you could let me know. I've tried all the commercial nurseries I know of without any success. We are even willing to pay good money for the right plants - if only I could find someone who keeps them! Regards, Phil Wilson Email: cp@pwilson.demon.co.uk Web Site: www.pwilson.demon.co.uk ################### From: Phil Wilson Date: Mon, 8 Feb 1999 20:56:42 +0000 Subject: Re: 3 Q's: gemmae, seedlings and hybrids John, >As for the Sarracenia seedlings, I wish I were having as much success >as some of you. I tried a bunch last year and only have two Red-tube >flavas that are still surviving. I think my troubles may have more to >do with the harsh, dry climate here than anything else. I'll try >pushing the seeds into the soil just a bit as Phil Wilson suggested, but >I wonder; do the seeds need light to germinate? > No definitely not! In fact I find in general that I get better germination if I cover the seeds. I suspect that seeds sown directly on the surface of the soil run the risk of desiccating at that vital moment when the seed case splits and the seedling is about to emerge. It only takes one sunny day and the local humidity on and around the seed can drop dramatically. Some growers (e.g. Adrian Slack) recommend adding a layer of chopped live sphagnum to cover the seed and this probably has a similar effect. Pure peat is just easier to use! Regards, Phil Wilson Email: cp@pwilson.demon.co.uk Web Site: www.pwilson.demon.co.uk ################### From: "Mark Pogany" Date: Mon, 8 Feb 1999 12:34:38 -0500 Subject: Welcome David! David Ahrens wrote in his introduction: I first got into cp's by being a VFT murderer at the age of ten years, the usual route into the hobby. A sworn affidavit stating one has in the past "killed at least one VFT" should be a requirement of acceptance into the ICPS! ...well, not really. But it would at least serve as a bit of comic relief. I'll shut up now. Mark Pogany Cleveland, Ohio markp@en.com ################### From: "Mark Pogany" Date: Mon, 8 Feb 1999 12:44:54 -0500 Subject: S. purpurea water Hello All, I'm sorry if this question has been covered before. I have searched through the achives for an answer with no success. I have a few recently acquired S.purpureae that appear to be doing quite well. Both have produced new growth and have begun to develope some red coloration. My question is, should the pitchers occasionaly be flushed with clean water? Due to there structure it would seem that this would happen when growing outside with rain. I was also wondering how full the pitchers should be? When filling the trays I use DI water with all of my plants. This is my first experience with any Sarracenia, but I deffinately look to acquring more in the future. Thanks. John Odum John- The S. purpurea that I have encountered in the wild usually have varying amounts of liquid in them. After a heavy rain they can be filled to the top, long periods of dry conditions will cause most of the fluid to evaporate except for the "nutritious sludge" at the bottom. My advice if you are growing them outdoors would be to keep them half filled, though I let Mother Nature take her course throughout the growing season. You will find that your plants catch ample prey without any artificial intervention. Mark Pogany Cleveland, Ohio markp@en.com ################### From: z_simkunasra@TITAN.SFASU.EDU Date: Mon, 08 Feb 1999 18:20:10 -0500 (CDT) Subject: Me, Myself, I & Meself To all those reading, I read that it is customary to give a little info. about one's self if you are new. So here I go. My nane is Robert Simkunas II. Nick names include the classical Rob & Bob, but other variants exsist such as: RobertO, RobO, BobO, Robear, Robertodendron, & Robertivore. Nick names describing personallity include: HotRod & Blurr (for my interest in fast cars), FX (becuase I tend to be descriptive with sound effects), 00 Turok (my paintball call sign based on my two favorite video games "Turok" & "007"), Mr. Technical (becasue I am usually detailed when talking about many subjects), and... And that's it for nick names. I am 25 years old, that's five hands, single white male looking for single female. Interests are: fast cars, fast jets, big trucks, Nintendo, painting, drawing, paintball, bike riding, mountain climbing, adventuring, exploring, astronomy, pottery, humor, sculpting, flying, Jesus Christ, botany, horticulture, carnivorous plants, and hopes to be obducted by aliens, befriend them, and aquire a starship because it is just taking the human race too long to develope a stardrive. My interest in carnivorous plants earned me the nick name Robertivore and my collection started out with two Venus Bug Traps that died in a freak freeze on April 11th I forget which year. 5 hours of 15 F had slaughtered them. Last year later I restarted my collection with two S. purpureas & two S. flavas. One S. purpurea was eaten to death by an unknown creature. It was a slow death as I painfully watched my plant get eaten away little by little without ever finding the insect responsible. That year I quickly acquired three dieing Dionaea muscipulas that where rescued from a Kroger supermarket and are now... Alive... Alive! ALIVE!! Wahhahahahahahahah ha haha ha he ho hehe ho ho. What else? Oh yeh! I am also a student at SFA majoring in Horticure & Art. Robertivore ################### From: Mike Vogl Date: Mon, 08 Feb 1999 17:40:59 -0700 Subject: Roridula germination Hello all- I have recently recieved some seeds of Roridula dentata. Does anyone out there who has experience growing this plant have any advice or recommendations on germinating it? Thanks- -Jonathan Mitchell ################### From: "Fernando Rivadavia Lopes" Date: Mon, 08 Feb 1999 20:13:18 PST Subject: CPs in Feb.'99 National Geographic To all, I bought the February 1999 issue of National Geographic today and to my surprise and joy found an article on ant-plant relationships, including some nice pictures of N.bicalcarata and the ants which live in its tendrils. But most of all, I was overwhemingly happy to see the name of our illustrious friend Charles Clarke! CONGRATULATIONS!!!!!! I had no idea you were the one who discovered those swimming ants in Neps! I suggest everybody run out and get your copy now before Charles buys them all! Best Wishes, Fernando Rivadavia Sao Paulo, Brazil P.S. Sorry to those who've written to me lately. I've been a bit busy, but I'll reply ASAP! ################### From: Alastair Robinson Date: Tue, 9 Feb 1999 04:06:00 -0500 Subject: Re: nep deformation and pitchers Chris, I get this happening regularly with two plants in particular - Nepenthes rhombicaulis and N. talangensis. It is much more pronounced in the latter, in which the tendrils on leaves seven or eight positions from the apex will spontaneously start to elongate and develop into pitchers, although these are not much smaller than the rest of the plant. And yes, it occurs *after* pitchers have already been produced further up the plant. I notice on the Malesiana Tropicals web-page that this species grows *very* slowly - it is thus a happy observation that I can make when I see my TC'd plant growing like the clappers - faster than either of my N.rafflesiana and N.truncata. Anyway, I understand that Nn.rhombicaulis, talangensis and aristolochioides are closely related - perhaps it would be fair to assume that the third species would also demonstrate this particular growth habit? Warmest Regards, Alastair. (It is now snowing - "London grounded to a halt yesterday as half-an-inch of snow fell on the roads" ;) We are a quaint country). ################### From: "Sundew Sundew" Date: Tue, 09 Feb 1999 04:21:59 PST Subject: CP trade ? Hi list, I dont know why but my last message to the list received an underwhelming response... Anyone want to trade for some Drosera? (don't worry, Joe, I've reserved some for you!) D.trinervia burmanii green sessilifolia burmanii x sessilifolia pygmaea ocidentalis pulchella several other pygmies nidiformis madagascariensis madagascariensis rhodesia intermedia gran sabana venezuela (tropical) sp brazil like capillaris (small and red) intermedia x rotundifolia sp venezuela "d2" pinguicula primuliflora byblis liniflora seed (shortly) and more.... Looking for: D indica red D burmanii red D neocaledonica D oblanceolata D petiolaris forms S American & African Drosera... Heliamphora seed preferred! Thanks in advance.. Matt NY NY ################### From: "Mellard, David" Date: Tue, 9 Feb 1999 08:49:02 -0500 Subject: RE: Me, Myself, I & Meself > I read that it is customary to give a little info. about one's self >if you are new. So here I go. > My nane is Robert Simkunas II. Nick names include ....... > I am 25 years old, that's five hands........ > My interest in carnivorous plants earned me the nick name Robertivore........ > What else? ........ chuckle. Hi Rob, Bob, Robo, Bobo, Robertivore....... Welcome to the list. I can't wait to see what you have in store for us....... David Atlanta ################### From: z_simkunasra@TITAN.SFASU.EDU Date: Tue, 09 Feb 1999 08:52:55 -0500 (CDT) Subject: Darlintonia, The Piosonous Snake Lilium For Cobra Lily experts, Robertivore again. I need seed germination tips for Darlingtonias. Any mass quanities of info would be helpful. Thanks, Robert Simkunas II ################### From: JDPDX@aol.com Date: Tue, 9 Feb 1999 09:50:41 EST Subject: RE: Camerelli CP Book Like many others have mentioned, this book is worth owning for the photographs alone. They are spectacular, and cover a good range of species. The cultural instructions I found to be a bit on the brief side. The book is fine for introducing people to CP, but could have a bit more detail on certain species; i.e.--cold hardiness of certain Drosera or Sarracenia species for those who wish to grow outdoors. Overall, however, nice job. Jeff Portland, OR ################### From: "Joachim Nerz" Date: Wed, 10 Feb 1999 00:19:36 +0100 Subject: Neblina & Minas Gerais Hello everybody, first of all a big apologize to the people, who tried to contact me since end of December; back from Neblina I just now find the time for mailing! Just a notice: In the next future I want to add some photos of Brazilian CP's and its habitats from our expedition to Neblina and our trip to Minas Gerais and the 'Orgelmountains' at our homepage (Carnivorous Plants in its habitats), managed by Matthias Schmidt! It is interesting, but at the plateau of Neblina it is by far not as easy to find Heliamphora as e.g. on Roraima-tepuy; I think, it is due to the different geologic structure, because different to Roraima, the Neblina-tepuy is folded and it seems, that for this reason there are more different small habitats with different species as on the tepuys in the North! So, oftenly you can find patches with dense, nearly impenetrable forest besides shrubby areas, dominated by genera like Bonnetia and oftenly the huge Broccinia tatei or you can find the vegetation of steep cliff-faces! >From literature I know, there must be also vast open boggy areas, the real habitat of e.g. Drosera meristocaulis! But the few expeditions, which visited these very remote areas usually used a helicopter! Anyway, after several days searching for Heliamphora, we've found it: an open swampy area with the beautiful H. t. neblinae; it is quite interesting, but each patch of it looks different; the plants in the open area are usually reddish, without stem, but you also can find patches with nearly green plants and some plants besides shrubs start to get short stems, which could reach in single plants nearly one meter! Also the shape of lid is very variable from patch to patch; some plants have very nice, comparable large red lids! The other CP- species, we've found there listed Fernando several days before (see his mail from 27.01.1999)! It is quite interesting, that in many species you can find slight differences to the populations of the more Northern tepuys! E.g. Utricularia quelchii shows somewhat pink to violet flowers on Neblina and at Roraima it shows its very purple-red flowers; besides that, it is nearly the same! Back from Neblina, our group did split. To recover from the very difficult expedition to Neblina, Katrin Hinderhofer and myself decided, to visit some CP-areas in the Southern part of Brazil; other members of the expedition (Andreas Wistuba, Christoph Scherber and Mauricio Piliackas) had to go back to home or continued to Venezuela (Fernando Rivadavia, Ed Read and Gert Hogenstreed). So, with some good informations from Fernando Rivadavia and Mauricio Piliackas, we realy could concentrate on the most interesting CP-areas; at several sites in Minas Gerais we were able to see pretty large plants of D. graminifolia, the gracile D. spec. 'Emas', D. chrysolepis (with- and without stem), D. montana, D. montana var. schwackei, maybe D. tomentosa, D. communis, and D. hirtella; from Lentibulariaceae we have found Genlisea aurea (very pretty plants with large yellow flowers), G. glabra, maybe G. pygmea (has still to be identified), G. violacea, the huge G. spec. 'Cipo', which seems to be quite close to G. uncinata, U. neottoides, which is growing just in little rivulets, the very common U. subulata, U. amethystina and 2 or 3 more Utrics; unfortunately I am not too familiar with the taxonomy of CP's from Southern Brazil, so there are still some questionmarks! It is quite obvious, that there are several relations between the CP-species of Minas Gerais, at S-Brazil and the Guyana-shield in Venezuela and Northern Brazil; so you can find species like G. repens, G. pygmea, G. filiformis in both areas, others are specific for the S. (e.g. G. aurea or G. violacea), or for the Guyana-shield in the N. (e.g. G. guyanensis); the same at Drosera; as I know, both regions belong to the very old sandstone-area, which is divided since long time by the huge Amazon-basin! It is quite interesting, that in some areas of Minas Gerais (S) you realy can see flat-topped tablemountains, like in the Roraima-area (N), but much more decayed! Another quite interesting area you can find quite close to Rio de Janeiro: the 'Orgelmountains'; it's shape is very interesting, very steep and very smooth rockwalls, oftenly so smooth and steep, that it is free of vegetation or just single specimen of Bromeliaceae are able to grow there; and especially these Bromeliaceae are interesting for CPers: in some of it you can find the stranke U. nelumbifolia, growing exactly like U. humboldtii in the leave-axils! Other CP's, we could find in the area were D. villosa, Utricularia geminiloba (quite common there) and Utricularia tricolor with its pretty large violet flowers! It is quite funny, in several days in the Southern part of Brazil, we have found more CP-species as in several weeks at the Neblina-expedition! Bye Joachim Joachim Nerz Arndtstr. 2 71032 B\366blingen Germany Tel. +49 07031 / 233563 Fax +49 07031 / 225483 e-mail: joachim.nerz@albatros.tue.bawue.de ################### From: "Fernando Rivadavia Lopes" Date: Tue, 09 Feb 1999 20:47:22 PST Subject: Re: Re: drosera morphology Dear David, I seem to have missed your mail about the bugs getting caught on the glands of D.montana var.tomentosa bracts. I believe it is probably coincidence that tehy were gaught. I've seen a mosquito caught on a D.m.montana scape. Anyways, the glands on bracts and scapes is very common in Drosera and other non CPs. Most likely it helps keep the crawling non-pollinators out of the flowers and away from the nutritious pollen. In fact that's how carnivory is suspected of having begun at least in the Droseraracea/Nepenthaceae lineage (see previous discussions and Jan's mails on Plumbago), with these glands acquiring digestive capabilities and then spreading to the leaves. Best Wishes, Fernando Rivadavia Sao Paulo, Brazil P.S. I'm glad to know your plants are thriving, congrats! ################### From: steve steve Date: Tue, 9 Feb 1999 21:55:52 -0800 (PST) Subject: Re: CPs in Feb. 99 National Geographic Dear All, I am not a regular reader of National Geographic and almost never buy it but a couple of days ago I picked one up as the Biodiversity cover was intriguing. Like Fernando I was delighted to see the article on ants and N. bicalcarata. The article mentions Charles Clarke and Roger Kitching but it is actually written by Mark W. Moffett. He is also responsible for the photos which are superb. p122-123 double page macro photo showing ants on the pitcher tendril. p124 one of the sharpest photos of a nep. pitcher that I have ever seen. p125 a close macro photo of a section through a tendril showing the ants and larvae. p126 a view down into a pitcher showing a trapped cricket with a Colobopsis ant swimming around it. p127 an amazing full page macro photo which, if I am looking at it correctly, is an interior view looking up under the peristome where the ants have dragged the cricket out of the fluid. Having dragged it up there they can then eat it in safety. The text is limited but the photos are so good that a brief description is more than enough. As Fernando says... get your copy now! Steve ################### From: Barry Meyers-Rice Date: Wed, 10 Feb 1999 08:14:17 -0800 (PST) Subject: Ibicella seed >> Ibicella seeds are available for $1/pack to ICPS members. Follow the >>links to the seedbank from www.carnivorousplants.org > > Are the Ibicella seeds still there? Last I saw, the ICPS seed bank > was out, but the page hasn't been updated since Jan 2. I know > because I sent a message to confirm some seeds I wanted and ended up I should think so. This summer I concluded my tests on Ibicella and dumped a lot of seed at the seedbank. (Maybe I just collected them and they're in my fridge right now? I'll check!!! If so, I'll email back, otherwise there should be lots at the seed bank.) Barry ################### From: Rick Walker Date: Wed, 10 Feb 1999 12:47:02 -0800 Subject: Ibicella seeds from ICPS seedbank I'm forwarding this for Barry. -Rick ------- Forwarded Message Rejected message: sent to cp@opus.hpl.hp.com by BAMRICE@UCDAVIS.EDU follows. Reason for rejection: suspicious subject. This often happens when you forget to edit your Subject: line and it still contains the word "Digest". Such messages are now automatically rejected by the listserver. Please edit your message headers and resubmit your posting to the listserver. - ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- >> Ibicella seeds are available for $1/pack to ICPS members. Follow the >>links to the seedbank from www.carnivorousplants.org > > Are the Ibicella seeds still there? Last I saw, the ICPS seed bank > was out, but the page hasn't been updated since Jan 2. I know > because I sent a message to confirm some seeds I wanted and ended up I should think so. This summer I concluded my tests on Ibicella and dumped a lot of seed at the seedbank. (Maybe I just collected them and they're in my fridge right now? I'll check!!! If so, I'll email back, otherwise there should be lots at the seed bank.) Barry ------- End of Forwarded Message ################### From: Ross.Rowe@ea.gov.au (Ross Rowe) Date: Thu, 11 Feb 1999 09:14:16 +1000 Subject: Re: Darlintonia, The Piosonous Snake Lilium Robert Place the seed in an envelope, immerse in water and freeze the whole lot for 36 hours. Sow the seed on live sphagnum and in about 2-4 weeks you will have virtually complete germination. Place the pot in a sunny spot. and in a shallow tray of water. Clay pots are good for helping keep the soil/moss cool. Ross Rowe Canberra Australia ______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________ Author: z_simkunasra@TITAN.SFASU.EDU at Internet For Cobra Lily experts, Robertivore again. I need seed germination tips for Darlingtonias. Any mass quanities of info would be helpful. Thanks, Robert Simkunas II ################### From: "Sundew Sundew" Date: Wed, 10 Feb 1999 18:23:31 PST Subject: CP Free or for Trade...Last Call! Hi list... Sorry to bother everyone about this again but I've got a few plants packed up and would like to find homes for them immediately. Trades preferred but if I've got extra I dont mind sending stuff for free (donations gladly accepted) :) Here's whats going out this time, **email me your address** if youre interested (even if I already have it). Not necessarily first come first served as I owe a few people: Large seedlings/small plants: D.sessilifolia, D.burmanii green, D.trinervia white, D.burmanii x sessilifolia, D.capillaris?, D.nidiformis, D.pulchella, D.nitidula x occidentalis, P.primuliflora, D.capensis wide US growers preferred cause it's simplifies things. Thanks in advance! Matt NYC ################### From: "Russell Elliott" Date: Thu, 11 Feb 1999 13:10:43 +0000 Subject: Re: 3 Q's: gemmae, seedlings and hybrids Hi Everyone, >No definitely not! In fact I find in general that I get better >germination if I cover the seeds. I suspect that seeds sown >directly on the surface of the soil run the risk of desiccating at >that vital moment when the seed case splits and the seedling is >about to emerge. It only takes one sunny day and the local >humidity on and around the seed can drop dramatically. Like Phil, I also just cover my Sarracenia seed, but with chopped spaghnum as Slack recommends. Before sowing though, the seed is thoroughly mixed (and stratified) with the chopped moss, and is then spread over the surface of the growing container filled with spaghnum moss. Even though the seed is covered, I suspect enough light infiltrates the gaps in the spaghnum to assist germination. I usually get better than 90% germination using this technique. As Phil also mentioned, Sarracenia seedlings are susceptible to a hot, dry environment, and will quickly die if exposed to these conditions (as I have often found!!!!!) -Russell Elliott ********************************************************** Russell Elliott, Seed Bank Director, Australian Carnivorous Plant Society, Membership enquiries Brian Denton: bdenton@camtech.net.au Seed Bank enquiries Russell Elliott: relliott@senet.com.au WWW: http://www.camtech.net.au/acps ********************************************************** ################### From: "Mark T. Bachelor" Date: Thu, 11 Feb 1999 13:29:13 +1000 Subject: Re: RE: Camerelli CP Book >Like many others have mentioned, this book is worth owning for the >photographs alone. They are spectacular, and cover a good range of >species. > >The cultural instructions I found to be a bit on the brief side. The >book is fine for introducing people to CP, but could have a bit more >detail on certain species; i.e.--cold hardiness of certain Drosera or >Sarracenia species for those who wish to grow outdoors. > >Overall, however, nice job. > >Jeff Portland, OR > A lot of the photos in this book are plants owned by members of VCPS. Many of them were taken during our annual show year in Nov 87, and others at members' homes. As far as details on cold hardiness of certain species are concerned, the only plants that we cannot grow outside are Nepenthes, other tropicals and plants that require very cold conditions. Melbourne is a very good place to grow CP. Most Drosera and all Sarras grow happily outside. They are more danger from the summer heat than they are of cold (actually our coldest winters have produced the best flowering - we only get frosts a few times in late winter), so such information is not at hand. As long as we keep the water up to them in summer they do fine. Regards Mark T Bachelor Biology Technican Melbourne Girls Grammar School Voice: +61 (03) 9866 1676 South Yarra, Victoria, Fax: +61 (O3) 9866 5768 Australia 3141 National Science Week, STAV Family Day Co-ordinator Lab Techs' Branch of STAV, South Yarra & Moorabbin Regional Rep. ################### From: "~`~TomsRarePlants~`~ fritts" Date: Wed, 10 Feb 1999 19:30:10 PST Subject: Aristilochia deblis ? Hello Im hope someone has this plant or seed. What is it and were does it grow ? I heard about it , is it carnivorous ? Thanks Tom Frittsmb@msn.com ################### From: Stephen Davis Date: Wed, 10 Feb 1999 20:25:18 -0800 Subject: Re: CP Free or for Trade...Last Call! Hey Matt, I know you remember me. I am one of those that owes you. I am trying. I accidentially posted a private reply on the list when someone asked for U. giba, and got several people asking for some in trade. I sent each of them your list as for what I'd take in trade, but to no avail. Sorry. However, all those people now owe me. :-) Except for one that I will probably accept something else as he doesn't like the Radar thing and doesn't want to owe anyone. We have a meeting of the BACSP coming up in March, and I'm doing PR for the ICPS 2000 convention here in the bay area, so I have to meet with some of those people soon. Perhaps I can find something there. Anyway, I'm always interesed in new plants. Of the ones you mentioned, the following are plants I don't have D.sessilifolia, D.burmanii green, D.trinervia white, D.burmanii x sessilifolia, D.capillaris?, D.nidiformis, D.pulchella, D.nitidula x occidentalis, P.primuliflora, D.capensis wide Well, I guess I'm just starting. I don't have any of the ones on your list. Care to risk me going further into your debt? I can send some money now, more later too. Stephen Davis 7010 Via Cordura San Jose, CA 95139 408-229-2264 Sundew Sundew wrote: > Hi list... Sorry to bother everyone about this again but I've got a few > plants packed up and would like to find homes for them immediately. > Trades preferred but if I've got extra I dont mind sending stuff for > free (donations gladly accepted) :) > Here's whats going out this time, **email me your address** if youre > interested (even if I already have it). Not necessarily first come > first served as I owe a few people: > > Large seedlings/small plants: > D.sessilifolia, D.burmanii green, D.trinervia white, D.burmanii x > sessilifolia, D.capillaris?, D.nidiformis, D.pulchella, D.nitidula x > occidentalis, P.primuliflora, D.capensis wide > > US growers preferred cause it's simplifies things. > Thanks in advance! > Matt > NYC -- Stephen Davis [V-Card file stephend.vcf deleted by listprocessor] ################### From: Stephen Davis Date: Wed, 10 Feb 1999 22:02:12 -0800 Subject: Re: OOPS sorry list! CP Free or for Trade...Last Call! OOPS, Sorry guys! [V-Card file stephend.vcf deleted by listprocessor] ################### From: SCHLAUER@chemie.uni-wuerzburg.de Date: Thu, 11 Feb 1999 08:42:52 Subject: Re: Aristilochia deblis ? Dear Tom, > Subject: Aristilochia deblis ? > Im hope someone has this plant or seed. Sorry, I do not have it. > What is it As the name tells already, it is an _Aristolochia_ (birthwort). > and were does it grow ? Japan. > I heard about it , Great! > is it carnivorous ? No. Like all _Aristolochiae_ (and quite a few other plants), it depends on invertebrates for pollination and not for nutrition (cf. previous discussions on this list). For more information, please refer to a standard textbook of Botany. Kind regards Jan ################### From: "David Bradley" Date: Thu, 11 Feb 1999 22:49:21 +1100 Subject: 1.Thrip control & 2.the S. rubra complex Dear all I have a problem with the dreaded thrips on a few of my carnivorous plants, growing in Australia. What I am wanting to know is what chemicals would be safe to use on Darlingtonia californica & Heliamphora nutans? Some of the ideas so far have been Folimat, Malathion, Confidor & Rogor. The Rogor I am led to believe is poison on Nepenthes & possibly the live Sphagnum. Any ideas on what is tried & true would be most appreciated. Another piece of advice I am after is with the Sarracenia rubra subspecies. I have read that it can take a few years once one repots a specimen for it to send out the proper Autumn pitchers, at the original size. Is this what other S. rubra growers have experienced? I am also wanting to know what various forms of S. rubra ssp. alabamensis do exist in cultivation. Is it true that there is a red form of the otherwise type golden green colour? Thanks for any help that anyone can provide, either on the listserve or my email address. Nathan J. Clemens sundew@mitmania.net.au ################### From: Rand Nicholson Date: Thu, 11 Feb 1999 13:07:12 -0500 Subject: Re: Aristilochia deblis ? >Dear Tom, > >> Subject: Aristilochia deblis ? >> Im hope someone has this plant or seed. > >Sorry, I do not have it. > >> What is it > >As the name tells already, it is an _Aristolochia_ (birthwort). (snip) > >> is it carnivorous ? > >No. Like all _Aristolochiae_ (and quite a few other plants), it >depends on invertebrates for pollination and not for nutrition (cf. >previous discussions on this list). For more information, please >refer to a standard textbook of Botany. > >Kind regards >Jan Just to expand on this a _very_ little: _Aristolochiae_ (sometimes called Dutchman's Pipe) has a reputation for being carnivorous in large part because dead insects are commonly found in its bloom. If you smelled like decomposed meat you would have flies on you, too. Many Arisaemae (Jack-in-the-Pulpit) and Aroids have got this reputation, also, and for the same reason. Commercial plant catalogues seem to delight in perpetuating this type of annoying mis-information. If you look carefully into the throats of most funnel shaped blooms, or inflorescences,that have been open for a while, you can usually find dead insects. In many instances the insect just can't find its way out. You might also find a fat, live Wolf Spider (Eastern Maritime Canada; jumping, non-web spinner, or other hunting bugs), or some such, depending on your part of the world. Draw your own conclusions. Kind Regards, Rand Rand Nicholson New Brunswick, Canada, Zone 8-5, 8-5, 8-5 ... The Great Brown North ################### From: Chris Teichreb Date: Thu, 11 Feb 1999 09:34:43 -0800 (PST) Subject: Pinguicula emarginata Hi all, Stuck at home due to the snowstorm that shut-down Vancouver, I had some time to go back and read some CPN articles. Specifically, I was reading the recent article by Loyd Wix on P.emarginata and was hoping someone might have some seed for trade. If so, please e-mail me privately, so we can hopefully work out a deal. Thanks! Chris ********************************** Chris Teichreb Department of Biological Sciences Simon Fraser University Burnaby, B.C. cjteichr@sfu.ca ********************************** ################### From: Gallep@aol.com Date: Thu, 11 Feb 1999 12:59:35 EST Subject: GFP-Homepage The homepage of the Carnivorous Plant Society for the German-Speaking Area has two new Webmasters: Gaby Schulemann and Ansgar Rahmacher. Our homepage is just getting revised, if you have any ideas or proposals or know any interesting / new links please address to Webmaster@gfp.org (or, if there are any difficulties with this address, to Gallep@aol.com). The address of our homepage is http://www.gfp.org (or: http://194.88.160.101) Yours Frank Gallep -President GFP- ################### From: Barry Meyers-Rice Date: Thu, 11 Feb 1999 10:51:55 -0800 (PST) Subject: CP FAQ update Hi Folks, I've finally finished with v7.0 of the CP FAQ which is now online. In addition to a suite of technical improvements, I've more than doubled the number of images on the site. If anyone finds a broken link or other problem (even an image that's not appearing), please contact me. I've tried to address the oversights that have appeared in the previous FAQ versions. Many of the new FAQ pages are in the conservation section, finally bringing that part up to date. If you are a newbie or otherwise curious, the FAQ is at the address below. Thanks for your feedback, everyone. Barry --------------------- Dr. Barry Meyers-Rice bazza@sarracenia.com Carnivorous Plant FAQ--author www.sarracenia.com/faq.html Carnivorous Plant Newsletter--editor www.carnivorousplants.org ################### From: "Eric BRET" Date: Thu, 11 Feb 1999 20:13:01 +0100 Subject: Re:subscribe -----Message d'origine----- De : cp@opus.hpl.hp.com subscribe ################### From: "It's me again!!! (Tomasz Kowalski)" Date: Thu, 11 Feb 1999 21:38:48 +0100 Subject: Seeds Hello to everybody I have one question. I have just purchased some seeds of Mimosa pudica, Aristolchia grandiflora and Desmodium gyrans. I know they are not carnivorous plants but maybe someone could help me. I do not have any infos how to grow them. What condition they need etc. If someone know the answer please send me an emial under kowal@starogard.com Thank you in advance Tomasz Kowalski ################### From: Brewer Charles E PHDN Date: Thu, 11 Feb 1999 15:54:49 -0500 Subject: RE: Seeds Tomasz, Sow the seeds on top of moist soil, in a warm place. This plant likes it damp, similar to VFTs, but will die if kept to cold. I usually start my seeds inside the greenhouse in the spring and grow them all summer long. I fertilize weekly with 1/2 strength and collect seeds in August. For good seed development, grow several plants at the same time allowing cross pollination. I use stand potting soil or used Sarr/VFT soil. Hope this helps. Charles Brewer Va. Beach, Va. > -----Original Message----- > From: It's me again!!! (Tomasz Kowalski) [SMTP:kowal@starogard.com] > Sent: Thursday, February 11, 1999 3:54 PM > To: Multiple recipients of list > Subject: Seeds > > Hello to everybody > I have one question. I have just purchased some seeds of Mimosa pudica, > Aristolchia grandiflora and Desmodium gyrans. I know they are not > carnivorous plants but maybe someone could help me. I do not have any > infos > how to grow them. What condition they need etc. If someone know the answer > please send me an emial under kowal@starogard.com > Thank you in advance > Tomasz Kowalski ################### From: Peter Cole Date: Fri, 12 Feb 1999 0:39:56 +0800 Subject: Re: Anthocyanins Out (off-topic?) on Mon, 08 Feb 1999 02:55:26 PST "nigel hurneyman" wrote: > I am trying to discover or breed an anthocyanin-free form of a > non-carnivore (heresy!). Does anyone know why anthocyanin-free forms > arise, or has anyone noticed anything unusual about the conditions in > which anthocyanin-free forms appear, eg Darlintonia 'Othello', the > heterophyllous S purpureas and Drosera capensis 'alba'. They most likely arise naturally by spontaneous mutation, and might in some cases confer environmental benefit, though I suspect in most merely don't disadvantage the plants. As for trying to breed antho-free plants, I can only suggest sowing lots of seeds and seeing what you get, or try stressing some plant tissue in vitro - I see all manner of strange mutations on occasion (sadly seldom viable,) including a particularly attractive albino (no chlorophyll but antho-producing,) Darlingtonia last year. It faded away before I could figure out how to graft it onto some normal tissue :( Happy experimenting, Peter mailto:carnivor@flytrap.demon.co.uk : http:www.flytrap.demon.co.uk/cchome.htm Cambrian Carnivores,17,Wimmerfield Cr.,SWANSEA,SA2 7BU, UK : tel 01792 205214 Carnivorous Plants,Seeds & Tissue Culture Kits - mailorder,export & wholesale ################### From: Peter Cole Date: Fri, 12 Feb 1999 0:39:53 +0800 Subject: Re: Edible Ibicella on Sun, 07 Feb 1999 23:34:27 PST "Chris Hind" wrote: .. > I've been told you can cook like a vegetable or pickle and eat premature > Ibicella lutea Devil's Claws? Does anyone else know of any other edible > carnivorous (or subcarnivorous) plants? Any edible sundews? I'd not heard that of Ibicella, but certainly Proboscidea parviflora was formerly cultivated by the Hopi Indians as a foodstuff. I believe there is a varietal name attached to the stock originating from cultivation, but I can't remember exactly what it was - var. hokama-something or other I half remember. Perhaps you could dry roast D.stolonifera tubers and serve them as nibbles :-) Happy growing, Peter mailto:carnivor@flytrap.demon.co.uk : http:www.flytrap.demon.co.uk/cchome.htm Cambrian Carnivores,17,Wimmerfield Cr.,SWANSEA,SA2 7BU, UK : tel 01792 205214 Carnivorous Plants,Seeds & Tissue Culture Kits - mailorder,export & wholesale ################### From: "Estudio Contable Bondone" Date: Fri, 12 Feb 1999 00:04:18 -0300 XSubject: Re: Edible Ibicella Hola, yo soy Martin y les escribo porque yo tambi'en cultivo plantas carnivoras, lo que me gustaria seria conseguir nuevas especies, si ustedes saben de alguien que venda plantas o semillas, me podrian mandar la direccion, si quieren les puedo contar todo lo que se. Estoy estudiando biologia, con especializacion en botanica, en la universidad UHABI. E-mail> martinmatias@ciudad.com.ar [HTML file part2 deleted by listprocessor] ################### From: Stephen Davis Date: Thu, 11 Feb 1999 22:29:36 -0800 Subject: Re: Edible Ibicella (really Proboscidea) You can get quite a few different varieties of Proboscidea (Devils Claw) from Native Seed/Search. They are a group in AZ that exists to conserve the traditional crops, seeds and farming methods of the Native Americans. http://desert.net/seeds/home.htm. email nss@azstarnet.com Phone: 520-622-5561 A very interesting catalog. I picked up at the Phoenix Botanical gardens, (a must see for both plant and animal lovers, by the way) while looking for Ibicella. They don't have Ibicella, but the Proboscidea is referred to as "Devils Claw" (lighting, thunder and organ music playing in the background) Since a lot of people have been asking about the edible nature of it, their catalog says: "Cultivated by many Southwest tribes, the seed is rich in oil and protein. The black fiber of the fruit or "claw" is used in basketry. Dried seeds can be peeled and eaten, and are sometimes used to polish ollas. The young fruits, when still tender, can be cooked as an okra-like vegetable." To tie this in with CP, perhaps can do the same thing with Ibicella, but the connection seems to be the common name, and the shape of the seeds. I'm not sure that is really a connection, except in our own minds. But I'm not a botonist, and I have yet to set eyes on a living plant of either genus. By the way, if you are weaving baskets with the claws, avoid multiple claws to prevent the birth of twins. Lots of interesting info, but it's off topic. Hope this hasn't driven too many people crazy already. Stephen Davis Still haven't been able to contribute a darn thing to this list about CP, but someday... Peter Cole wrote: > on Sun, 07 Feb 1999 23:34:27 PST > "Chris Hind" wrote: > .. > > I've been told you can cook like a vegetable or pickle and eat premature > > Ibicella lutea Devil's Claws? Does anyone else know of any other edible > > carnivorous (or subcarnivorous) plants? Any edible sundews? > > I'd not heard that of Ibicella, but certainly Proboscidea parviflora was > formerly cultivated by the Hopi Indians as a foodstuff. > Stephen Davis [V-Card file stephend.vcf deleted by listprocessor] ################### From: "Guy Van der Kinderen" Date: Thu, 11 Feb 1999 16:21:25 +0100 Subject: Re: Aristolochia debilis Dear Tom, > Im hope someone has this plant or seed. > What is it and were does it grow ? > I heard about it , is it carnivorous ? Aristolochia debilis (note spelling) is not a carnivorous plants, but it may catch insects for pollination, as many (all?) other Aristolochia do. I heard about this species from the Botanic Garden here, and I would not be surprised if they have this species to. I think it originates from China. I will take a look and contact you in private. (I hope you are not confusing with Nepenthes aristolochioides which, of coarse, is carnivorous.) Kind regards, Guy Van der Kinderen University of Gent ################### From: "Chris Hind" Date: Fri, 12 Feb 1999 01:17:53 -0800 Subject: Re: Estudio Contable Bondone Hola Martin, mi nombre es Chris. El dont I sabe mucho espa\361ol tan si mi escritura mira su divertido porque el software l\363gica de la traducci\363n que usaba im encontr\363 en altavista.digital.com. Usted puede desear intentar la bater\355a del germen de ICPS para los g\351rmenes baratos en http://www.primenet.com/~tjjohns/seed.htm o comprar las plantas en el sitio de Tom Hayes en http://www.tcscs.com/~thayes / m\355 tambi\351n un comandante de la biolog\355a pero especializaci\363n en gen\351tica m\341s bien que la bot\341nica. Heh, this is bound to get a laugh. ;) ################### From: JDPDX@aol.com Date: Fri, 12 Feb 1999 10:16:15 EST Subject: Re: Insecticides, S. rubra complex << I have read that it can take a few years once one repots a specimen for it to send out the proper Autumn pitchers, at the original size. Is this what other S. rubra growers have experienced? >> The S. rubra species I have the most of is S. rubra rubra and S. rubra ssp. jonesii, and both of these will produce nice autumn pitchers the first year after a rhizome division provided you don't break them up too small. I always do my division and repotting in the very early spring just before they come out of dormancy. I live in the Pacific Northwest in the US which is a cool rainy climate with warm mild summers and mild wet winters. Everyone seems to have their favorite insecticides for CP pests, but I've had great luck with Orthene. I've also used insecticides based on pyrethrins and permethrin with no ill effects to plants. Just avoid spraying in the heat of the day. Jeff ################### From: "John Green" Date: Fri, 12 Feb 1999 08:35:07 -0700 Subject: Sarracenia hybrids and their names I notice that in Peter's book and "CP of the USA and Canada" by Don Schnell, they both give lists of the names of Sarracenia hybrids commonly found in the wild. Hybrids with S. oreophila are never listed, and I realize this is probably because there are no naturally occuring S. oreo hybrids. Have names been given to all the other hybrids that are typically produced only by growers? If so, where could I find such a list? Also, I note that S. leuco x S. rubra = S. x readii, but is this for S. rubra ssp. rubra, or all subspecies of the rubra complex? Would it have a different name if you used S. rubra alabamensis, etc., or would you just note the particular subspecies that was used? The same question goes for S. x rehderi, and all other rubra hybrids. I'm planning on experimenting a bit this year with my plants and would like to know the correct names. Thanks in advance for your help. John Green Salt Lake City, Utah ################### From: "Dean Cook" Date: Fri, 12 Feb 1999 07:54:27 -0800 Subject: CP and PC Virus Hello all, Happy February. For most of us the growing season is just about upon us, another month or 2 depending on where you live. This is the time for repotting and dividing of most of the plants and taking cuttings off of our Nepenthes plants to create new. For us, there is a seasonal problem of Weevil grubs in our darlingtonia, nasty little things. For us, Orthene works well for these creatures as well as many other pests. We mix the ornamental strength on all of our chemicals we use. When we mix this, we also add some Funginex or other fungicide which seems to help with any problems that may arrise in the spring with fungus. With any insecticidal treatment, it is best to try a smaller area of the plants to make sure that your plant or its conditions doesn't cause the plant to have leaf burn, which will happen potentially on some new tender growth or younger plants also the temperatures need to be cooler when spraying, we normally do ours in the evenings prior to complete darkness. Currently we ar e dividing many of our sarracenia and will have many extras available this year. Feel free to look on our older page at http://www.televar.com/~cooks and look at the grow list and see if there are any that you are looking for. Our page it not current there as to availability, however prices are the same. Our new page at http://www.flytraps.com is continuously being updated with new items as they arrive or we divide our inventory. This page will also have more than just plants in the future, so keep an eye on it as it grows and feel free to e-mail any questions or comments directly to me at cooks@flytraps.com Now down to the PC virus part. There is a Happy99 virus that is floating around, unknown to the senders of the e-mails, attached to anything they send out. I was unfortunate to have gotten one of them and open it. Here is where you will find the fix for it, for me it was too late and I had to format my hard drive to get rid of it http://www.geocities.com/SiliconValley/Heights/3652/SKA.HTM For t hose of you whom I regularly speak with, or have in the past please send a current e-mail to me and I will add you to my address book for future new mailings. Take Care Dean Cook's Carnivorous Plants and More [HTML file part2 deleted by listprocessor] ################### From: SCHLAUER@chemie.uni-wuerzburg.de Date: Fri, 12 Feb 1999 17:48:17 Subject: Re: Sarracenia hybrids and their names Dear John, > (...) and I realize this is probably because there are no naturally > occuring S. oreo hybrids. Have names been given to all the other > hybrids that are typically produced only by growers? If so, where > could I find such a list? http://www.hpl.hp.com/bot/cp_home Using the search string "\* \[S" will output all names and formulae of _Sarracenia_ hybrids published so far (rather long list). > Also, I note that S. leuco x S. rubra = S. x readii, but is this for S. > rubra ssp. rubra, or all subspecies of the rubra complex? The name was created to include all infraspecific taxa of _S. rubra_, because _S. *readii_ is a hybrid name at specific level (a nothospecies, not a nothosubspecies, nothovariety, or anything else). > Would it have > a different name if you used S. rubra alabamensis, etc., or would you > just note the particular subspecies that was used? If you wanted to keep the information for the record (all ambitious breeders should do this), you should note the precise hybrid formula, including the infraspecific classifiation of the parents (if there is one like in your example). The (scientific) name will remain _S. *readii_. But if you felt that something distinguishes it from the hybrid involving the typical subspecies of _S. rubra_, you could of course describe the plant either as a new cultivar (preferably, if the plant is of horticultural origin) or as a new nothosubspecific taxon under _S. *readii_. > The same question goes for S. x rehderi, and all other rubra > hybrids. A similar answer like above applies for these as well. > I'm planning on experimenting a bit this year with my plants and would > like to know the correct names. Thanks in advance for your help. So far, no infraspecific classification has been used for cp hybrids. One -merely theoretical- exception being _Drosera *californica_, which would be a nothovariety rather than a nothospecies if the two parents were regarded as varieties of one and the same species, in which case it should be called _D. filiformis nothovar. californica_ (NB: This would be a new combination that should be publised together with a reference to the basionym before it is used to label plants!) Please note that no hierarchical grouping of cultivars is possible, while taxa are hierarchical groups, i.e. a cultivar cannot include other cultivars as subdivisions. Either they are the same or they have equal rank and are mutually exclusive. Several cultivars can, however, be included in a common cultivar-group. This applies for cultivars of pure species and of hybrids alike. Kind regards Jan ################### From: Brewer Charles E PHDN Date: Fri, 12 Feb 1999 11:44:19 -0500 Subject: RE: Anthocyanin free Purps/Purp for sale 1. I have a limited of S. Purp ssp Purp (Anthocyanin free) for sale. These plants were started from seeds about three years ago and they seem to do well with high humidity and warm summers. The asking price is $10.00, which includes shipping. I have about 12 plants to sell and will sell them on a first come, first serve bases. 2. I also have a bunch of nice Cephs for sale. These plants are between two and three years old and have been growing in aquariums. I am selling them for $23.00 per plant which includes shipping. This sale is limited to the US only (sorry) If interested please contact me via email. Charles Brewer brewerce@nswcphdn.navy.mil ################### From: Peter Keller Date: Fri, 12 Feb 1999 18:02:21 +0000 Subject: Volume #3 The U.S. distributor just rec'd their supply of Loweri's Vol. #3 and are mailing them out to who ever ordered them. Expected to take about nine days. Barnes and Noble will also begin mailings. I would like to thank Tom Hayes for installing a link to my web site for anyone that would like to order Vol #3 thru B & N. By the way Tom, Who is "Dale Evans". -- Peter F. Keller pkeller@suffolk.lib.ny.us pfk6@juno.com http://www.hoflink.com/~scarf ################### From: Phil Wilson Date: Fri, 12 Feb 1999 22:48:30 +0000 Subject: Re: 1.Thrip control & 2.the S. rubra complex Hi, > Any ideas on what is tried & true would be most appreciated. > Another piece of advice I am after is with the Sarracenia rubra >subspecies. I have read that it can take a few years once one repots a >specimen for it to send out the proper Autumn pitchers, at the original No I have never found this to be the case. >size. Is this what other S. rubra growers have experienced? I am also >wanting to know what various forms of S. rubra ssp. alabamensis do exist in >cultivation. Is it true that there is a red form of the otherwise type >golden green colour? The sub-species is rare enough in cultivation to never (to my knowledge) offer substantially different forms. Treat any claims with a degree of suspicion since in my experience many supposed "forms" of S. rubra ssp are no more than mis-named hybrids. I have certainly never heard of the red form - though I'd like to see it if it exists!! Regards, Phil Wilson Email: cp@pwilson.demon.co.uk Web Site: www.pwilson.demon.co.uk ################### From: "William M. Gorum, Jr." Date: Fri, 12 Feb 1999 18:49:08 -0600 Subject: hybrids Hey Listmembers: I've got a question for you. I'm fairly new to the CP world, and I've noticed that some of the plants available are hybrids. Is the propagation of hybrids standard practice in horticulture? I spend the majority of my free time caring for the several breeding pairs of parrots that I have in my care, and in the world of aviculture, serious bird breeders will often harshly condemn the breeding of hybrids because we have such a limited number of bloodlines available in the U.S. Some people go so far as to not breed different subspecies together? Are hybrids not such a big deal here? Breeding mutations are one thing, but breeding hybrids is totally different altogether from a bird keepers point of view. I am unaware of status of many of the plants kept in captivity, as far as endangered or threatened species are concerned. This topic is a fast way to start a flame war on an avicultural list, but in all good intentions, this is NOT the goal here, I'm simply trying to educate myself. Thanks in advance..... Will wgorum@softdisk.com ################### From: Dave Date: Fri, 12 Feb 99 19:40 EST Subject: Re: Volume #3 Dear Peter and Tom, > I would like to thank Tom Hayes for installing a link to my web site > for anyone that would like to order Vol #3 thru B & N. > By the way Tom, Who is "Dale Evans". Yeah, I'd like to know too. :) "Dave Evans" ################### From: drury6@juno.com Date: Thu, 11 Feb 1999 14:45:23 -0600 Subject: D. Adelae deformations I have noticed that lately the leaves of my D. Adelae have been deformed. I don't think it is due to insects, the leaves are like that when they open up. Is this happening to other growers? I am getting new shapes, not chew marks or any thing like that. I have gotten hourglass shaped leaves, leaves with notches, and just generally deformed leaves. Don Drury ################### From: ricell@juno.com Date: Fri, 12 Feb 1999 20:10:12 -0700 Subject: Re: hybrids On Fri, 12 Feb 1999 "William M. Gorum, Jr." writes: >Is the propagation of hybrids standard practice in horticulture? I spend >the majority of my free time caring for the several breeding pairs of >parrots that I have in my care, and in the world of aviculture, serious >bird breeders will often harshly condemn the breeding of hybrids because >we have such a limited number of bloodlines available in the U.S. This is a good question - and one that might even spark some interesting debate in the horticulture world - so I think I'll answer to the list. While in the CP world, there are definitely some species purists I think you will find that most people don't passionately object to the idea of hybridizing. For myself, I think hybrids can be interesting and fun. However I think its important to keep carefull records of your hybrids and since I live in Colorado the risk of any hybrid CP that I create getting established in the wild is pretty much zero. I think a lot of the concerns about animal hybridization revolve around: 1. Concerns of hybrids escaping into the wild, 2. The ethics of creating a sentient creature that does not know what species it is. 3. Going through the effort of raising some hybrid creature when captive propagation is percieved as an attempt to save genetic material from extinction. For complaint 1, plant hybrids are not rare in nature and while plants can "escape", they tend to be easier to keep captive than animals. It also seems that most of the hybrids are created in non native areas - eg Nepenthes hybrids seem to mostly be from Europe, Japan and North America. For complaint 2, only a few of us think our plants are sentient (you know who you are!). While I have a hard time composting perfectly good plants, I have no ethical concerns about planting several hundred seed, saving a few and culling the rest. Complaint 3 might be a valid one for us. There are certainly those that think hybrids are a waste of good greenhouse space. In this age of extensive tissue culturing though, I don't particularly feel like I'm doing much to preserve rare genetic material since frequently I'm just growing the exact same clone as hundreds of other folks. My two cents Rich Ellis, Boulder, CO "ricell@juno.com" http://www.geocities.com/RainForest/Vines/8564/ ################### From: Hayes7@aol.com Date: Fri, 12 Feb 1999 22:49:45 EST Subject: Re: Volume #3 - B&N links.... Dear Pete, "Dale" & list, > > I would like to thank Tom Hayes for installing a link to my web site > > for anyone that would like to order Vol #3 thru B & N. > > By the way Tom, Who is "Dale Evans". Currently he just goes by the masked CP'er, but I will let everyone know if I find out his real identity. I would like to ask the rest of the CP folks with pages to copy the code below and put B&N links to Pete's page. Like Pete already said, the rebate goes to help retired firefighters out. We are spending the $$ anyway, so it may as well go a little further and help those who help protect us. Again, the link should point to Pete's page and not directly to B&N. Take care & keep on growing, -Tom- Hayes DANGEROUS PLANTS www.tcscs.com/~thayes The image bn_affil.gif is available at the following URL: http://www.tcscs.com/~thayes/graphics/bn_affil.gif The link code is between the lines below..... ___________________________________________
Peter Keller's Page - not CP Related
5% of the sales from this site's Barnes & Noble Banner helps support retired firefighters. Please make your $$ go a little further
______________________________________________ ################### From: "Christensen" Date: Fri, 12 Feb 1999 21:25:09 -0700 Subject: store these seeds for 2 years? I have several cp seeds I wanted to plant. However, unexpectedly I may be away from home for about 2 years, after the month of May. I need to know how long I can save my seeds and what my losses may be. I'm assuming they aren't too old, already. Malaysian Nepenthes, mostly highland and one lowland Mexican Pings, 3 need a dormancy and 2 don't need it Australian Drosera caduca, paradoxa Sarracenia purpurea ssp. purpurea Maybe, if I can't store them, I'll plant them in a closed terrarium. Does Sarracenia need a dormancy while it is young? I thought of trading the seeds but that would give me more plants or seeds- not what I want. Seed storage isn't a topic in most cp books. Chad C. ################### From: "Christensen" Date: Fri, 12 Feb 1999 21:24:56 -0700 Subject: Desmodium gyrans virus? I know, this is a carnivorous plants mailing list. However, almost everybody I emailed about Mimosa and Desmodium also had carnivorous plants. Part of our fascination with c. plants may be their oddity, so some cpers grow other odd plants? Anyway, I was looking at my D. gyrans seeds and noticed 4 seeds were light tan with black specs and squigles; 2 seeds were redish brown (maroon?) with less obvious black specs and squigles; and 3 seeds looked intermediate light tan to redish brown and had dark splotches instead of specs and squigles. To summarize that- I'm seeing a lot of variation in the colors of the seed coats. Don't ask me the difference between dark splotches and specs. I'm not sure how to describe that :) Use your imagination. Sometimes, those colors may mean a virus is in the seed. I've seen that in pea seeds- my experience. I can't remember where D. gyrans is from. In 1970 the virus was found in D. canum from Florida. Is it possible this virus may infect D. gyrans plants grown in the USA? I used www.metacrawler.com , and typed in Desmodium virus and clicked Search. One of the results: http://image.fs.uidaho.edu/vide/descr299.htm Below, that is only a small part of the webpage. %%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%% Desmodium mosaic potyvirus Host range and symptoms First reported in Desmodium canum; from Florida, U.S.A; by Edwardson et al. (1970). Natural host range and symptoms Symptoms persist. Desmodium canum - mosaic, leaf malformation. Transmission Transmitted by a vector; an insect; Aphis craccivora, Myzus persicae; Aphididae. Virus transmitted by mechanical inoculation; transmitted by seed (8%). Geographical distribution Spreads in the USA. %%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%%% ################### From: Dave Date: Fri, 12 Feb 99 23:45 EST Subject: Re: store these seeds for 2 years? Dear Chad, > unexpectedly I may be away from home for about 2 years, > > Malaysian Nepenthes, mostly highland and one lowland These are fairly short lived. > Mexican Pings, 3 need a dormancy and 2 don't need it > Australian Drosera caduca, paradoxa I can't be sure but these may live, if kept refridgerated. > Sarracenia purpurea ssp. purpurea You can refridgerate these for sure. > Maybe, if I can't store them, I'll plant them in a > closed terrarium. Does Sarracenia need a dormancy while > it is young? I thought of trading the seeds but that > would give me more plants or seeds- not what I want. Chad, given the circumstance, I would just give the seeds to those who want, and ask for some more later. I'd be sure to send the short-lived seeds to a seed bank or friens and keep the long-lived stuff the fridge. DAve Evans ################### From: "~`~ TomsRarePlants ~`~" Date: Sat, 13 Feb 1999 06:16:58 -0000 Subject: Nepenthes seeds Hi we have planted Nepenthes seeds from the seed bank we just sprinkle seed on moist soil keep warm and light on for days a week went by then on the second week they came up . I never turned off the lights and im here to say the last 3 times i faild at it . ? Do you think the light had something to do with it ? We will have small Nepenthes ventricosa red and N gracilis for $7 and N Bicalcurata for $23.00 anyone want to buy or trade for these plants E-mail us at frittsmb@msn.com Thanks Tom @ Laura Fritts and son Daniel he's 4 ################### From: "NEIL ARMSTRONG" Date: Sat, 13 Feb 1999 15:23:43 -0000 Subject: Re: Hybrids & variety confusion Dear William & List, I thought I would give my two penny's worth on this subject. I only discovered recently that most non CP hybrids are sterile, (I grow CP's, but I'm no gardener). I suppose that we take for granted that "our" plants can be crossed every which way, but it has led to huge confusion, especially with Sarracenia hybrids which now seems to be completely out of control. Know one seems to know anymore if a plant is genuine or miss- labled. Another problem we seem to have at the moment is the question over wether long standing variety's are what we thought they were, for example, is S. Maxima a seperate variety, or just a large form of S. Flava, common in the wild? This leads to huge problems for the average grower, especially if they breed and sell to an unsuspecting person, labelling becomes meaningless. I read with interest Peter D'Amato's new book (Very good by the way) about the variety of new VFT's that are springing up are Tissue Culture mutants, is this a worrying trend? Could this happen to more species? I'll stop now, I'm beginning to rant. Cheers, Neil. ################### From: Davidogray@aol.com Date: Sat, 13 Feb 1999 10:22:11 EST Subject: hybrids in horticulture Will, and list, William M. Gorum, Jr." writes: >Is the propagation of hybrids standard practice in horticulture? >Are hybrids not such a big deal here? Breeding mutations are one thing, but >breeding hybrids is totally different altogether from a bird keepers point of view. In horticulture, unlike aviculture and the husbandry of endangered animal species, hybrids are not judged as "bad". First, most plants don't have a limited breeding lifespan (in the right hands - don't tell those poor VFT at K-Mart ); individual plants of a rare species can be propagated, tissue- cultured, and otherwise increased to give the grower more material to breed with - you can't take a toe off your Spix's Macaw and make a new macaw can you? One plant can be the parent of hybrid offspring at one breeding and pure species the next. Second, there is the phenomenon of *hybrid vigor* which simply is that hybrids between two species or forms are often much more vigorous and hardy than either parent - I bet you know lots of people who are taller than their parents, right?. This makes breeding hybrids a worthy and desirable pursuit. Third, humans do not have complete and utter control of all life and those sneaky bees sometimes make hybrids when we're not looking. When a plant in cultivation is rare, growers would normally make an effort to produce seed of the true species, form, etc. - but sometimes ( as is often the case with Nepenthes ) plants different enough to cross-pollenate don't flower at the same time; so the grower crosses the flowering plant with whatever he/she has flowering at the same time to take advantage of the opportunity. As for the very good points raised by Rich Ellis: >1. Concerns of hybrids escaping into the wild, >2. The ethics of creating a sentient creature that does not know what >species it is. >3. Going through the effort of raising some hybrid creature when captive >propagation is perceived as an attempt to save genetic material from >extinction. 1. We've said, hybrids do occur in the wild, and man-made hybrids do "escape" - but both the ICPS and other conservation organizations condemn intentional introduction of non-native material. There is no way to stop this from happening. 2. I've never heard a CP complain about being created - let's wait and ask the first human-chimp cross how he feels about the subject. 3. Sadly, the evidence on reintroductions of captive raised endangered species shows the survival rate is dismal and that as a strategy for long- term survival, captive breeding just doesn't work. We have got to save habitat. Hope this helps your understanding, and keep breeding those parrots, Cheers, David O. Gray Davidogray@aol.com ################### From: Oliver.Gluch@t-online.de (Oliver Gluch) Date: Sat, 13 Feb 1999 16:54:28 +0100 Subject: Pinguicula macroceras Hi folks, anybody out there, especially in the US which grows P. macroceras from a location in North-America and especially P. macroceras ssp. nortensis from the Oregon-Californian border region. I would like to trade some winter buds and can offer a very large scale of Pinguicula species. Anyone interested can contact me privately. Oliver ----------------------------------------------------------------------------- Oliver Gluch Lindenallee 44 26122 Oldenburg Germany eMail: Oliver.Gluch@t-online.de Pings on the Net under http://home.t-online.de/home/oliver gluch/home_e.htm ----------------------------------------------------------------------------- ################### From: Christer Berglund