################### From: Chris Marsden Date: Fri, 1 Jan 1999 17:52:01 -0500 Subject: More U. gibba Hi folks, thanks for the replies on the Lowrie front, and: I have yet more U. gibba to give away to people in the EU/EC/E-whatever. I can't remember if I could fill all of the requests I got last time, but in case I didn't, more people have joined the list, or the stuff I sent out has died, please feel free to ask for some. Postage would be appreciated (begging bowl mode ON) but is by no means essential (excess christmas cheer mode OFF). It grew from a microscopic strand in my aquarium (I didn't even know it was there) into a mass covering almost the whole aquarium. Anyone who has ever grown this plant will know all about this!! For those that don't know, it is an aquatic bladderwort that does extremely well floating on the surface in fish tanks (tropical or coldwater), with or without fish. In fact, you might say it's a little hard to kill. I would say it is very hard to kill, but then I'm biased... I've grown it. Kindest Regards and best wishes for a very good growing 1999, Toby -- Toby Marsden -- UK ################### From: "David E. Heule" Date: Fri, 1 Jan 1999 19:06:31 -0500 Subject: P.lutea Happy New Year to All, Has anyone noticed the rotation of the P.lutea flower during it's growth period. This is the second year I've had the Ping. flower and notice the rapid rotation of the flower again this season. Almost 360 degrees / hour. Thanks. Dave Heule [HTML file part2 deleted by listprocessor] ################### From: "Carl Strohmenger (HSC)" Date: Fri, 1 Jan 1999 19:27:16 -0500 (EST) Subject: Re: P.lutea This is strange. I have observed P. lutea for many years and never noticed this behavior. This year, I am going to sit down with the flowering plants for at least 30 minutes for an extended observation period. 360 degrees an hour translates into 6 degrees per minute. Amazing! - Carl On Fri, 1 Jan 1999, David E. Heule wrote: > Happy New Year to All, Has anyone noticed the rotation of the > P.lutea flower during it's growth period. This is the second year > I've had the Ping. flower and notice the rapid rotation of the > flower again this season. Almost 360 degrees / hour. Thanks. > Dave Heule > > [HTML file part2 deleted by listprocessor] > > ################### From: "Richard Brown" Date: Fri, 01 Jan 1999 19:32:51 -0500 Subject: Re:Sarracenia Winter Dormancy Hey Everybody, Happy New Year! Those of us living in South Florida are experiencing one of the mildest winters ever. At my place, about a mile from the Atlantic Ocean, I've had two nights drop all the way down to 52 degrees F in the wee hours of the morning, and I've had one day actually never get above 75 degrees F. Needless to say, I have not even put plastic up over my Nepenthes lathe house yet. By the way, both the lowland and highland species seem to enjoy the cool nights (typically upper 60's F) and warm days (low 80's F). It makes one wonder if the majority of Neps couldn't be grown together under one set of temps (excluding a handful of super-high altitude species). Now to my question. Because of my wonderful natural Nepenthes conditions, I'm having a really difficult time getting my Sarracenias to go to sleep! I lost a bunch of them a couple of years ago to overly warm conditions- they literally grew themselves to death. They were replaced with a small collection of nice, select seedlings two years ago, and they have grown. To "winterize" them, I place distilled water ice cubes in their pots every other night, and sometimes even twice a day (Yes, it is labor intensive). I'm getting some phyllodia, but some real pretty "winter pitchers" also. They like the ice cubes! I've talked to a couple of Digest regulars about removing my Sarrs. from their pots, rinsing them clean, putting the tubers, sans leaves, into zip lock bags, and then depositing them for two months in the lower regions of the refrigerator. I don't want to lose these babies. Any comments or advice on this procedure? Thanks in advance. Trent Meeks Pompano Beach, Fl. ################### From: TANWK Date: Sat, 02 Jan 1999 10:12:00 +0800 Subject: RE: CP Stamps Greetings from Singapore. I saw the mention of N.madagascarensis below. Does any one happen to have spares of the N.madagascarensis stamps (Year 1973 Scott Number 496, and Year 1973 Scott Number 497) to exchange or sell? I have spares of the following CP stamps in exchange: Laos 1995 Scotts # 1237, 1239, 1240, 1241, 1242 Brunei $5 note (N. lowii) Malaysia $20 note (N.rafflesiana) Malaysia stamps of N.lowii, N.rajah, N.sanguinea and N.macfarlanei. >From: Angie Nichols >Subject: Lowes CPs >Message-ID: <368BCC27.2839@sccoast.net> >Eric, the Nepenthes that the chain stores sell is >usually N.madacascarensis. Angie Regards and have a great Year 1999. Tan Wee Kiat ################### From: "Charles Redding" Date: Sat, 02 Jan 1999 09:02:53 PST Subject: More weird things with my Drosera Capensis Happy New Year Some of my D. capensis are still producing the split leaves so now my plants are producing regular and split leaves someone suggested that it may be a staghorn sundew but it wouldnt have produced the capensis leaves too would it? Someone else's D adelae did basically the same mine is doing and there was a pic on the digest mine looks similar except mine are split about one inch give or take. I cannot think of my this could be happening so if anyone can give me some insight or even just share a strange happening with your plants that would be great! Thanks Charles Redding Fl. ################### From: "Jon T. Lindstrom" Date: Sat, 02 Jan 1999 15:03:07 -0600 Subject: Sarracenia dormancy Trent Meeks writes: >I've talked to a couple of Digest regulars about >removing my Sarrs. from their pots, rinsing them clean, putting the tubers, >sans leaves, into zip lock bags, and then depositing them for two months in >the lower regions of the refrigerator. I don't want to lose these babies. >Any comments or advice on this procedure? > I grow my Sarracenias in New Zealand Sphagnum moss. In the late fall, I put pot and all in a plastic bag and place them in the butter comparment of my refrigerator (S. oreophila and flava seedlings). I check them every three weeks or so and remove them from cold storage in late January. They survive fine. I do not remove the leaves or remove the substrate from the roots. Jon T. Lindstrom Fayetteville, AR ################### From: Andrew Broome Date: Sun, 03 Jan 1999 22:11:23 +1300 Subject: Re: More weird things with my Drosera Capensis Charles wrote... >Some of my D. capensis are still producing the split leaves so now my >plants are producing regular and split leaves someone suggested that it >may be a staghorn sundew but it wouldnt have produced the capensis >leaves too would it? Someone else's D adelae did basically the same mine >is doing and there was a pic on the digest mine looks similar except >mine are split about one inch give or take. I cannot think of my this >could be happening so if anyone can give me some insight or even just >share a strange happening with your plants that would be great! The only time I've seen something similar in my D. capensis (in this case, the 'alba' form) was just after treating the plant with 'Malathion' (maldison) to shift some persistant aphids. A leaf or two later they came right. My guess is that it was some sort of response to extreme stress from the (nasty) chemical on the leaves that were forming at the time the spray was applied. Just my thoughts... Andrew@home. *NZKA 137, NAKA 5, SKG, AKA 07212, BKA 073.05, PNAS, MFEC *NZHS, NZCPS... * Thought of you as my mountaintop, thought of you as my peak, * Thought of you as everything, I've had but could not keep. * - (Pale Blue Eyes) - The Velvet Underground *Killies: Ducatis: Reptiles & Amphibians: Carnivorous Plants: ################### From: "It's me again!!!" Date: Wed, 30 Dec 1998 16:29:41 +0100 Subject: Utricularia. Hi I am new here. I am looking for seedlings or small plants of Utricularia. I wish it was the easiest to grow specie. I am writing from Poland. If you have this plant for sale or know someon who can sell it please let me know Thank you in advance Looking forward to hearing from you kowal PS. I would love to have any CP growers on my ICQ list my number is 2452546 please add me. [HTML file part2 deleted by listprocessor] ################### From: "Charles Redding" Date: Sun, 03 Jan 1999 10:27:12 PST Subject: More weird capensis I just noticed that off some of the stalks is 2 leaves it forks right at the bottom and there is a regular capensis leaf and a split leaf like I talked about before Things just getting weirder and weirder Charles in Fl ################### From: VFTMaxwell@aol.com Date: Sun, 3 Jan 1999 20:40:46 EST Subject: Questions of plants Does anybody know when I should take out my VFT and Cobra Lilie out of the fridge and freezer? Does anybody know how to tell when to take out my seeds of my D. capensis? Does anybody know how to take out my seeds of D. capensis? Regards, Cire Lewxam ################### From: drury6@juno.com Date: Sat, 2 Jan 1999 21:29:09 -0600 Subject: growing Sarracenia in Oklahoma I live in Eastern Oklahoma, and I would like to know if my climate would be suitable to grow Sarracenias, and maybe Dioneas outside, unfortunatly, some times the temperatures can be around 45 degrees celcius (112 F) for a week on end, I would probably water daily. I most likely wouldnt be able to water at noon though, just mornings and evenings. The humidity is exceptionaly variable, but stays 60-70% RH most of the time during the summer. I will be able to keep them from freezing during winter. Thank You, Don Drury ################### From: storkus@storkus.com Date: Sun, 3 Jan 1999 23:21:53 -0800 (PST) Subject: Climate and species questions I've just bought my 7th (in my life) Venus Flytrap and I intend on making sure it lives for a long time. However, I need some questions answered that aren't clearly answered in the CP FAQ, mainly about temperature. I am in Reno, Nevada, an area on the border of high desert (to the east) and high mountains (the Sierra Nevadas to the west). In the summer, temps range from upper 80's to lower 90's during the hottest months (35 C or so), though occasional hot snaps occur that can push the temperature to 100; humidity in the summer extremely low during the day, sometimes falling to as low as 10% during the hottest parts of the day (it goes back up at night to as high as 40-50% during pre-dawn, though). In the winter, though, things are totally different. Temps (both lows and highs) can vary wildly depending on weather patterns, though the norms are supposed to be in the 40's (5-10 degrees C) during the day and lower 20's to mid-upper teens at night (-5 to -10 C or so). However, as I said, this can vary wildly, sometimes from day to day: one day you may have a high in the 60's and the next may not even get above freezing (this happened the week before Christmas, for instance--remember the big Canadian arctic air mass that decended and enveloped the whole continental U.S.?) So I guess my question is, what are the extremes that can be tolerated by the VFT? (Especially low temps.) My second question is, there's apparently this man-eating (*grin*) sundew that can span as much as a meter/yard across. My encyclopedia says it's D. gigantia or something similar, but I can find no reference to it anywhere on the 'net. What species is this giant sundew, can I get it, how hard is it to cultivate, etc? Thanks for any and all help! Mike -- ****************************************************************************** * Mike P. Storke, Owner, Linux consultant Web Hosting * * Storke's Technologies Hosting Services www.storkus.com E-Mail Lists * * 264 Thoma Street #2 Reno, NV 89502-0966 Shell Accounts * * (877) 589-5753 in USA, +1 (775) 332-3715 outside USA AND MORE! * * Small on prices and size, but big on service and value! * ****************************************************************************** ################### From: "nigel hurneyman" Date: Mon, 04 Jan 1999 02:52:20 PST Subject: Re: Spanish and more on my VFTs Thanks Karen. I think I missed out a Portuguese connection somewhere. For example, a lot of Brazilian footballers have names ending in nha eg Mirandinha, usually pronounced by commentators as Mirandinya. Would any Brazilians like to comment - should the fish be pronounced piranya? (I saw the old Bond movie 'You only live twice' over the holiday, and I'm sure Ernst Stavro Blofeld pronounced it pirana). Regarding the discussions of D capensis with split leaves, my Boston fern (Nephrolepis cv) split several of its fronds immediately after Chernobyl - but never before or since. Charles, do you live near a dodgy nuclear installation? (Our hi-tec office automation system has fallen victim from the year 1999 bug, hence the use of my reserve mailbox). Good Growing, NigelH ################### From: "Susan Farrington" Date: Mon, 4 Jan 1999 09:18:20 +0000 Subject: growing sarracenia in Oklahoma > I live in Eastern Oklahoma, and I would like to know if my climate > would be suitable to grow Sarracenias, and maybe Dioneas outside, > unfortunatly, some times the temperatures can be around 45 degrees > celcius (112 F) for a week on end, I would probably water daily. I most > likely wouldnt be able to water at noon though, just mornings and > evenings. The humidity is exceptionaly variable, but stays 60-70% RH > most of the time during the summer. I will be able to keep them from > freezing during winter. > So long as it's humid, I think you might be okay. Dry heat like that could be deadly, though. I would recommend a little bit of shade during the hottest part of the day, and definately grow them all in plenty big enough containers with lots of water. A sunken artificial bog type container would be best, to help keep the soil temperatures cool, and definitely don't grow them in pots sitting on dark asphalt or something tortuous like that. Sphagnum moss growing on top of the soil surface will also help to moderate the temperatures, but it will need sprinkling every morning and evening to keep alive when it's nasty. Good luck! Susan Farrington Missouri Botanical Garden ################### From: "Susan Farrington" Date: Mon, 4 Jan 1999 09:22:12 +0000 Subject: St. Louis ICPS Meeting To all in the St. Louis area... Weather permitting, we will be holding our second meeting of the St Louis chapter of ICPS this Thursday, January 7, at 7pm at the Missouri Botanical Garden. We'll be showing slides of cp's in their native habitats, and will discuss some basic care and how to replicate their native habitats when growing them. All are welcome, beginners or experienced growers alike. For more information, contact me: Susan Farrington sfarrington@ridgway.mobot.org Missouri Botanical Garden ################### From: caroline Date: Mon, 4 Jan 1999 07:34:48 -0800 (PST) Subject: Need live sphagnum. Hi there. I am looking for live sphagnum, and cant find any reputable suppliers. Where can I buy some? Any suggestions? Where do ya'all get yours? Thanks Caroline, in central Oregon ################### From: "SARVER, CINDY" Date: Mon, 4 Jan 1999 08:40:13 -0800 Subject: Greenhouse Hi Folks, Well, 1999 is going to be the year of the greenhouse for me. I live in Southern California, so my biggest problem will be cooling in the summer. If anyone has any suggestions, ideas, favorite types of greenhouses, companies, etc., please email me! (Private replies are fine.) I'm thinking of creating a greenhouse for my highland plants, since my house itself is kind of a lowland environment. Any advice at all would be greatly appreciated. Thanks! -cindy ################### From: "Haakan Murevaern" Date: Sun, 3 Jan 1999 18:54:47 +0100 Subject: Gibberellic Acid ! PLEASE HELP !!!! Hello Robert and all, You should try Peter Cole Cambrian Carnivores. He sells it. Link from my home page. I got GA3 from him when I got my first B.gigantea to germinate. >From a lucky owner of B.gigantea Haakan Murevaern See my Carnivorous Plants at http://www.algonet.se/~murevarn [HTML file part2 deleted by listprocessor] ################### From: L235@aol.com Date: Mon, 4 Jan 1999 14:09:10 EST Subject: re: B. gigantea humidity Johnathan Mitchell asked about B. gigantea humidity a while back and I haven't seen a public posting yet ... so I'll take a stab: While I can't speak for seedlings, I grow an adult B. gigantea (thanks to Brian Cochrane) outside similarly to Sarracenia species. Average (for Northern Virginia) humidity. The only difference is that the Byblis is grown with less water in the tray than Sarracenia. Our humidity can reach 70 percent during the peak of summer, but 35-40 percent is not uncommon where I live. The plant is definitely not a "greenhouse" plant as far as I'm concerned. Jay Lechtman (L235@aol.com) Ashburn, Virginia, USA > I have a large batch of B. gigantea (of several forms) germinating right > now and was wondering what their humidity needs are. > I currently have them in a very high humidity environment with my Neps > and Droseras, but it would be great if I could move them out of the > terrariums into a lower humidity area (terrarium space being so > precious). > So, does this species require high humidity, or will the 40%-60% > humidity outside of my tanks be sufficient? > > Thanks- > > -Jonathan Mitchell > ################### From: Dave Date: Mon, 04 Jan 99 23:47 EST Subject: Re: scale/mealybug attack on Nepenthes Dear Steve, > I've got a white scale, or white mealybug attack, in the early stages on > one of my Nepenthes plants...I believe N. Rafflesiana. I applied safer > insecticidal soap to the affected leaves. Will this alleviate the > problem, or is there something else I should do? The Insecticidal Soap > contains potassium salts of fatty acids. This is a good plan for dealing with this type of scale. However, mealybugs can also infest the roots of your plants, as many a Sarracenia can attest. Keep an eye out for any bugs you didn't get the first time. Safer's isn't a poison and has to be sprayed directly on bugs you want to kill, and it is easy to miss some. If they are also in the soil/ roots, some real poisons (I have decided I don't like poison much and no longer advise on this subject as other's have much better advice than I) may be needed too. Dave Evans ################### From: "Tomasz Kowalski (ICQ#2452546)" Date: Tue, 5 Jan 1999 15:17:22 -0100 Subject: I wish to contact you on the ICQ Network Greetings, I have tried to contact you on the ICQ network but was unable to find you. Therefore I would like to invite you to join the ICQ Network. You can download ICQ from this html link. Once you do it, we will be able to communicate on-line. Click here to download ICQ: http://www.icq.com/ How to find me on the ICQ Network: I have 4 addresses on the ICQ Network: - My ICQ number is 2452546 - My Personal Communication Center on the Web, from which you can send me a message without having the ICQ program is http://wwp.mirabilis.com/2452546 - You can send me an Email Express which will appear directly on my computer screen to 2452546@pager.mirabilis.com. - My personal ICQ homepage is members.icq.com/2452546. If I am online you will be able to have a 2 way dialog with me from this page, which includes the World Wide Paging of ICQ. Seek you @ ICQ Tomasz Kowalski ICQ #: 2452546 ################### From: "Semanchuk, Phil J" Date: Tue, 5 Jan 1999 10:00:50 -0500 Subject: RE: Climate and species questions > I am in Reno, Nevada, an area on the border of > the whole continental U.S.?) So I guess my > question is, what are the extremes that can be > tolerated by the VFT? (Especially low temps.) Mike, the temparature ranges you cited (20 - 100F) are no problem for a VFT. I live in Durham, NC and my CPs spend all their time outside in pots. In winter I keep them packed side by side with dirt, wood chips and leaves around the pots to provide insulation. When I woke up this morning it was 16F outside -- well below average for us, but not unusual. Summertime temps often top out in the high 90s. What would concern me in your situation is humidity. CPs like high humidity and I believe they need it to tolerate heat well. The humidity here in summer usually hits 100% at night and drops down to 60% (?) during the day -- very different from your environment. Perhaps another grower with dry climate experience can help you out with this. Hope this helps Philip URL du Jour: http://www.netlink.co.nz/~monpa/ ################### From: JDPDX@aol.com Date: Tue, 5 Jan 1999 12:03:53 EST Subject: Re: Byblis gigantea culture In a message dated 1/4/99 10:29:49 PM Pacific Standard Time, cp@opus.hpl.hp.com writes: << I grow an adult B. gigantea (thanks to Brian Cochrane) outside similarly to Sarracenia species. >> Jay, How much cold is the plant capable of taking? Would it survive in the Pacific Northwest? Jeff Portland, OR ################### From: JDPDX@aol.com Date: Tue, 5 Jan 1999 12:08:27 EST Subject: Moss on pots A question for everyone. Overtime, all pots of CP grown in a greenhouse, or under lights begin to get a thick moss growing on the media. My observations have been that many plants, particularly D. capensis and VFT's start decreasing in growth when this moss gets too thick. Has this been others experience also? Has anyone experimented with keeping the moss plucked off, or using an inhibiting agent of some kind? I'd love to hear others experiences. Jeff Portland, OR ################### From: Chris Teichreb Date: Tue, 5 Jan 1999 09:48:22 -0800 (PST) Subject: Re: Moss on pots Hi Jeff, > A question for everyone. Overtime, all pots of CP grown in a > greenhouse, or under lights begin to get a thick moss growing on the > media. My observations have been that many plants, particularly D. > capensis and VFT's start decreasing in growth when this moss gets too > thick. Has this been others experience also? Yes, this has been my experience as well, especially with young plants, specifically Drosera spp. > > Has anyone experimented with keeping the moss plucked off, or using an > inhibiting agent of some kind? I'd love to hear others experiences. I just pluck the moss out occasionally to make sure that it doesn't overwhelm the plants. Otherwise, if the plant is above moss level, I tend to leave it alone, as it does look nice! I wouldn't recommend an inhibiting agent, as applied at high enough concentrations, this could kill your plant as well as the moss. Some say that moss growth is an indication of fertilization of the soil, however, I do not fertilize any of my plants (other than insects) and I know my soil ingredients are free of any nutrients which may give the moss a boost. It may help to steam sterilize the peat moss before use to kill off any moss spores, however, it seems to only prevent it for a little while, and the smell of cooking peat is not the most pleasant! > > Jeff > Portland, OR > Happy growing, Chris ********************************** Chris Teichreb Department of Biological Sciences Simon Fraser University Burnaby, B.C. cjteichr@sfu.ca ********************************** ################### From: "Andy Falshaw" Date: Wed, 6 Jan 1999 09:39:55 GMT+1200 Subject: Calibrating thermometers/measuring light levels I have recently bought a couple of cheap max-min thermometers from a local store. I put them next to my old thermometer for a weekend. All 3 were close (+/-1degree C) on the min temperature, but differed by 10 degrees C on the max. Now I don't know which if any of them to believe. I suppose I can check the lower end of the temperature range by putting them in the fridge or ice/water, but does anyone know of an easy way of checking them in the range 20-30 degrees C? I've recently moved a tank into my office, in the belief that it would get plenty of light. Well it seems I was wrong, and although I was getting sun a few weeks ago now that its mid summer here I'm getting little direct light. Is there any way to measure how much total light a tank gets over a day, and compare that with an "ideal" amount of light? Or should I just assume the more light the better and put a fluorescent of some sort on the tank? Thanks for any ideas/comments Andy in NZ - no snow, lots of sun, and a 5.2 on the Richter scale last week ################### From: Chris Teichreb Date: Tue, 5 Jan 1999 13:26:58 -0800 (PST) Subject: Re: Calibrating thermometers/measuring light levels Hi Andy, > I have recently bought a couple of cheap max-min thermometers from a > local store. I put them next to my old thermometer for a weekend. > All 3 were close (+/-1degree C) on the min temperature, but differed > by 10 degrees C on the max. Now I don't know which if any of them to > believe. > I suppose I can check the lower end of the temperature > range by putting them in the fridge or ice/water, but does anyone > know of an easy way of checking them in the range 20-30 degrees C? What's the local temp up to in your region? Is it possible to stick them all outside and then compare to readings at your local meteorological station? > > I've recently moved a tank into my office, in the belief that it > would get plenty of light. Well it seems I was wrong, and although I > was getting sun a few weeks ago now that its mid summer here > I'm getting little direct light. Is there any way to measure how > much total light a tank gets over a day, and compare > that with an "ideal" amount of light? Or should I just assume the more > light the better and put a fluorescent of some sort on the tank? There are ways of measuring cumulative incoming radiation, but most involve costly equipment. One way is to use the f-stop reading on a normal 35mm camera which can be related to incoming foot candles (ie: visible light radiation). I don't have the details handy, but I do remember posting something about this about a year ago. Anyways, take readings every hour or so and average them to get your average incoming light. For simplicity's sake, I'd personally put a fluorescent strip over if it looks like the plants are suffering. > > Thanks for any ideas/comments > Andy in NZ - no snow, lots of sun, and a 5.2 on the Richter scale > last week > Happy growing, Chris ********************************** Chris Teichreb Department of Biological Sciences Simon Fraser University Burnaby, B.C. cjteichr@sfu.ca ********************************** ################### From: garko@juno.com (Gary Kong) Date: Tue, 5 Jan 1999 20:55:46 -0800 Subject: Sarracenia and ants-- Hi Everyone-- My Sarracenia (leucophylla/flava hybrid) has yet to die back, so since all other food sources for ants have grown scarce, my plants have attracted swarms of ants. I've consistently observed the hoods and lips covered with ants during the cooler morning hours and later in the day when the sun has passed, but when the sun warms the pitchers, the ants almost seem to disappear. At first, I thought the ants were avoiding the sun and retreating to their nests, but then I began to notice that once the leaf surface warmed, the ants were less surefooted as they crossed over areas that had previously provided a foothold. Sure enough, the pitchers have gradually filled. My guess: the waxy cuticle warms, becomes slippery, dislodges wax more readily which clogs their foot parts--they can't hold on and fall in. In addition, earlier in the year when ants were avoiding the pitchers, I'd noticed small fruit flies and fungus gnats falling into the traps, but flying out unharmed. Now that the traps are full of swarming angry ants, anything that falls in becomes covered with ants and is unable to escape. Gruesome. Fascinating. Just thought I'd share, Gary ################### From: FOODBAG@aol.com Date: Wed, 6 Jan 1999 00:31:13 EST Subject: CP outside in the Midwest Hi everyone, Joe from Lincoln, Nebraska here. My two cents worth on putting CP outside in the warm months. I think it depends on the individual plant you have as to how well it succeeds. I have had VFTs outside and one will do great and another will not. I tried S. flava and S. purpurea venosa a few years ago and they thrived, but last year I tried a S. flava(different plant) and a S. leucophylla and the flava died and the leucophylla put out non-pitchered leaves only. I guess you can only figure out by trying. Here in Nebraska, you have to deal with wind as well as heat, so it can be hard to keep the plants humid, even sitting in trays and misting. The purpurea, being stout and lower to the ground, probably did well because of that compared to the taller pitcher plants. You may have to harden them slowly and start in shade before gradually giving them sun( I think Susan said that). I don't recommmend buying plants to grow outside if you don't have the facilities to put them elsewhere to grow if things go bad. Unless you don't mind taking a risk, of course. In any case, good luck. Regards, Joe ################### From: L235@aol.com Date: Wed, 6 Jan 1999 10:25:48 EST Subject: Re: B. gigantea cultivation (cold) Jeff Dallas wanted to know about B. gigantea cold tolerance, specifically, whether or not it would survive in the Pacific Northwest. I've never let my Byblis freeze, although it's certainly gotten close (low of 35 degrees F has been fairly constant over the last few weeks in the cold frame ... and it may even have dipped below 32 F once or twice before I put it under glass.) At 35 degrees, it is green and healthy and (apparently) happy. I hope you can extrapolate from this for your own growing conditions. Jay Lechtman (Jay@carnivorousplants.org) Ashburn, Virginia, USA "There's a fine line between a hobby and a mental illness" ... Dave Barry ################### From: "John Green" Date: Wed, 06 Jan 1999 08:43:00 -0700 Subject: Re:Climate questions Mike in Reno, Nevada asked about the climate conditions that CP and VFTs in particular can tolerate. I'm in Salt Lake City (not too far and very similar conditions) and I find that mine do best when I put them outside for the summer. I'm growing VFTs, Sarrs, and Drosera, mostly all in one big, long, deep, window box-type pot. I keep them in a sunny location, with maybe a bit of shade in the afternoon when it gets really hot and dry. I also try to find a location in the yard where they'll be protected from drying winds, such as a corner by a wooden fence or a hedge. The humidity seems to be high enough in the yard, and to make sure I usually water the grass and garden areas near the plants in the evening (spraying the hedges and fence, too), which I assume helps to keep the humidity a bit higher. They only seem to suffer when the temps get close to 100f and the humidity drops under 20%. I fill up the water tray every morning and usually after work on hot, breezy days. I put them on a wooden bench and a ll sorts of bugs find their way into the traps, including snails that I've found dead in the S. purpurea venosa. The plants have to come inside for the winter (it's way too cold outside now), and I have them in the coldest, draftiest window I could find in the house, and they're still dormant. Hope that helps. John Green ################### From: "David E. Heule" Date: Wed, 6 Jan 1999 10:53:51 -0500 Subject: Brocchinia reducta Question Hello to All, On the one plant that I am growing, I noticed at the very tip of two leaves, what appears to be small platelets starting to grow. Has anyone observed this kind of growth? And can the leaf be cut to propagate in this manner? Thanks. Dave Heule [HTML file part2 deleted by listprocessor] ################### From: "Brian Cochran" Date: Wed, 06 Jan 1999 08:15:32 PST Subject: Byblis conversations I've seen some questions here about Byblis giganteas and thought I'd offer some input. As young plants, good humidity and moderate temperatures are best. I keep mine under clear plastic cups with small holes punched in them under fluorescent lights with temps in the 50 to 70F range. I also keep them moister than I once wrote about and have had less losses with the seedlings. I start them around mid-November. Once they begin to outgrow the small cups I transplant them in larger pots and by March or April move them outside. When I say outside -- this is for those living in areas with moderately high relative humidity (i.e. the East, Northwest) Here, they have also experienced late frosts with no damage. I wouldn't let them freeze, but I've even had some plants that were a few seasons old freeze and come back. They're really tough plants once you get them established. By Summer, they'll take as much heat as the Sarracenias (as Jay mentioned.) Also, at this time the soil should look dry on top but be moist below. I accomplish this by top watering when young and by Summer switch to bottom watering (tray) but never let them sit in water. I had a devastating move to Colorado this past year and lost most of my Byblis plants in the move. I've now started more and oddly they seem to grow well in my highland chamber. I don't have any experience growing them outdoors here, but I don't think they'd like the low humidity here. Brian ################### From: Kirk Martin Date: Wed, 06 Jan 1999 11:35:58 -0500 Subject: Reno Nevada temperatures At 10:53 PM 1/5/99 -0800, you wrote: >Topic No. 2 > >Date: Tue, 5 Jan 1999 10:00:50 -0500 >From: "Semanchuk, Phil J" < >To: "'cp@opus.hpl.hp.com'" < >Subject: RE: Climate and species questions >Message-ID: <<854F7121CC2BD211856000805FE6EBD2010B9FEF@US4N49> > >> I am in Reno, Nevada, an area on the border of >< >> the whole continental U.S.?) So I guess my >> question is, what are the extremes that can be >> tolerated by the VFT? (Especially low temps.) > >Mike, the temparature ranges you cited (20 - 100F) are no problem for a VFT. >I live in Durham, NC and my CPs spend all their time outside in pots. In >winter I keep them packed side by side with dirt, wood chips and leaves >around the pots to provide insulation. When I woke up this morning it was >16F outside -- well below average for us, but not unusual. Summertime temps >often top out in the high 90s. What would concern me in your situation is >humidity. CPs like high humidity and I believe they need it to tolerate heat >well. The humidity here in summer usually hits 100% at night and drops down >to 60% (?) during the day -- very different from your environment. Perhaps >another grower with dry climate experience can help you out with this. > >I lived in Klamath Falls Oregon (260 miles north of Reno) recently and >the elevation (4100-5500 feet above sea level) greatly affected growing >plants outdoors since weather could be 60-70F quite late in the season >and then rapidly turn to snow overnight. I had a great deal of >difficulty keeping Sarracenia outside as they would break dormancy only >to be frozen to death by the sudden shock. Our growing season was in >essence June 15-August 15 to be reasonably certain of no frost. Legend >has it that it snowed on the fourth of July before in Klamath Falls. I think you would have better luck using the refrigerator method to induce dormancy. Good Luck, > Kirk W. Martin R.S. Associate Biosafety/Sanitation Officer Harvard University Environmental Health and Safety 46 Oxford Street Cambridge, MA. 02138 TEL: (617)495-2102 FAX: (617)495-0593 ffff,0000,0000Check out our Web Site 0000,0000,ffff- 0000,0000,fefehttp://www.uos.harvard.edu/ehs/ ################### From: Chris Teichreb Date: Wed, 6 Jan 1999 09:21:01 -0800 (PST) Subject: Re: B. gigantea cultivation (cold) Hi all, Peter D'Amato wrote an article in the CPN recently (Cultivating cp's: highs and lows; if I recall correctly), in which he talked about torturing B.gigantea by subjecting them to his winter. From what he indicated, they were able to survive quite low temperatures briefly, but didn't appreciate being waterlogged over the entire season. So, if you keep them in a well drained container, I'd say try it and see. Of course, make sure you have back-up plants indoors! Happy growing, Chris On Wed, 6 Jan 1999 L235@aol.com wrote: > Jeff Dallas wanted to know about B. gigantea cold tolerance, > specifically, whether or not it would survive in the Pacific > Northwest. > > I've never let my Byblis freeze, although it's certainly gotten close > (low of 35 degrees F has been fairly constant over the last few weeks > in the cold frame ... and it may even have dipped below 32 F once or > twice before I put it under glass.) > > At 35 degrees, it is green and healthy and (apparently) happy. > > I hope you can extrapolate from this for your own growing conditions. > > Jay Lechtman (Jay@carnivorousplants.org) Ashburn, Virginia, USA > "There's a fine line between a hobby and a mental illness" ... Dave > Barry > ********************************** Chris Teichreb Department of Biological Sciences Simon Fraser University Burnaby, B.C. cjteichr@sfu.ca ********************************** ################### From: Ide Laurent Date: Tue, 05 Jan 1999 22:58:53 +0100 Subject: Erratum Hi To all people who received somme gemmae from me recently : it appears the roseanna was mislabelled and are common D. nitidula omissa X occidentalis occidentalis. I've recently discovered this by showing my plants to another CPer. Sorry. Laurent Ide Mike, D. gigantea is a tuberous. Other info is available in the digest where your question appeared, indeed. What are the biggest droseras ? D. regia, D. gigantea... It seems D. indica is not so bad too ? What about D. macrophylla (dimensions please) ? Other data on this subject ? Take care ################### From: "It's me again!!!" Date: Wed, 6 Jan 1999 21:26:10 +0100 Subject: Hormones Hello I am looking for hormones for the plants just to cultivate pieces of them on the gel. I would like to buy hormones separatly I mean gibberelins, auxins, etilens and cytekisens (sorry for spelling I know only Polish names for them). If someone knows where I can find them please let me know. Thank you in advance looking forward to hearing from you kowal [HTML file part2 deleted by listprocessor] ################### From: ricell@juno.com Date: Wed, 6 Jan 1999 15:07:43 -0700 Subject: Carnivorous Plant Stamps Greetings stamp collectors, I am trying to gather all the Stanley Gibbons, Michel and Yvert & Tellier numbers for carnivorous plant stamps. If there are any stamp collectors out there who know these numbers for the 1995 Plantes Insectivores series from Laos or the 1985 Ivory Coast stamp of Triphyophyllum peltatum, I would be most grateful. Sincerely, Rich Ellis, Boulder, CO "ricell@juno.com" http://www.geocities.com/RainForest/Vines/8564/ ################### From: VFTMaxwell@aol.com Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1999 00:30:14 EST Subject: stamps In a message dated 1/2/99 1:25:57 AM Eastern Standard Time, cp@opus.hpl.hp.com writes: > Laos 1995 Scotts # 1237, 1239, 1240, 1241, 1242 > Brunei $5 note (N. lowii) > Malaysia $20 note (N.rafflesiana) > Malaysia stamps of N.lowii, N.rajah, N.sanguinea and > N.macfarlanei. Where'd you get them? ################### From: "Chris Hind" Date: Wed, 06 Jan 1999 21:35:49 PST Subject: Red Piranah... Coming Soon I know many of you are still waiting for me to return your emails and I guarantee I will email you back regarding trades but recently Ive had an overwhelming response to the red piranah cultivar and i need a bit of time. Trades will be established through email shortly and plants traded on the first warm week of spring. I'll keep you posted. ################### From: "Chris Hind" Date: Wed, 06 Jan 1999 23:02:42 PST Subject: Re: B. gigantea cultivation (cold) >Jeff Dallas wanted to know about B. gigantea cold tolerance, specifically, >whether or not it would survive in the Pacific Northwest. > >I've never let my Byblis freeze, although it's certainly gotten close (low of >35 degrees F has been fairly constant over the last few weeks in the cold >frame ... and it may even have dipped below 32 F once or twice before I put it >under glass.) > >At 35 degrees, it is green and healthy and (apparently) happy. > >I hope you can extrapolate from this for your own growing conditions. I live in the pacific southwest, specifically redondo beach, ca. I have my byblis up on my deck getting full sun all day with the exception of the marine layer overcast that comes every couple days. Its been getting incredibly and unusually cold but my byblis can take it. I went outside one morning and my windshield was a plate of ice, (unheard of down here) and my byblis took it with damp soil nicely so im guessin its pretty hardy course I was scared to death the frost had killed it. Its actually getting healthier now, nice and gooey. ################### From: GkramIII@aol.com Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1999 02:57:31 EST Subject: Feeding VFTs I have kept VFTs for several years now inside my house under growlights. Since these plants get little in the way of bugs they catch, I feed them on a regular (once a week or two) basis. Usually only one trap per plant. I use to buy only enough crickets to feed to the plants that day. The plants grew well but never bloomed. But, now I feed only crickets that have been gut loaded with "cricket food" and orange slices. These crickets are "DUSTED" with a vitamin supplement just before feeding. Any unused crickets end up as dinner for my tree frogs (or vice versa). I figured that if it is good for the frogs, its good for the plants. The plants really love it!! I get three to four blossom cycles a year. It almost seems that they are either blooming or are sending up a floral stalk. I stopped pinching off the stalks because they just kept sending up replacements. Does anyone else feed your plants this way? Do you get the same results? Will this ( frequent blooming) hurt the plants in long run? Your comments would be apperciated. ################### From: "Marc I. Burack" Date: Thu, 07 Jan 1999 07:55:19 -0500 Subject: Re: Feeding VFTs At 12:02 AM 1/7/99 -0800, you wrote: >I have kept VFTs for several years now inside my house under >growlights. Since these plants get little in the way of bugs they >catch, I feed them on a regular (once a week or two) basis. Usually >only one trap per plant. I use to buy only enough crickets to feed to >the plants that day. The plants grew well but never bloomed. But, now >I feed only crickets that have been gut loaded with "cricket food" and >orange slices. These crickets are "DUSTED" with a vitamin supplement >just before feeding. Any unused crickets end up as dinner for my tree >frogs (or vice versa). I figured that if it is good for the frogs, its >good for the plants. The plants really love it!! I get three to four >blossom cycles a year. It almost seems that they are either blooming >or are sending up a floral stalk. I stopped pinching off the stalks >because they just kept sending up replacements. Does anyone else feed >your plants this way? Do you get the same results? Will this ( >frequent blooming) hurt the plants in long run? Your comments would be >apperciated. You are correct in "gut loading" your pet store bugs. For those of you who do not know what I am talking about, "gut loading" is allowing pet store insects to eat about 24 hours before feeding them to your plants. This is accomplished by throwing a piece of fruit into the insects box or bag and allowing them to feed. Most pet stores feed there live insects nothing more than dried potato pieces (and some not at all). By the time they are purchased, the bugs have very little nutritional value and according to a reptile grower I know, the insects are flirting with death since they are so deprived of food. I also "gut load" insects I purchase.......unfortunately it is a major pain in the ***. Marc I. Burack marcb@companionfinancial.com ################### From: Fabien ZUNINO Date: Thu, 07 Jan 1999 18:11:43 Subject: Nature et Paysages : New Webpage Hi all, Of course you know France with food (Foie gras, ...), Wine (Bordeaux, Champagne ...), la Tour Eiffel, etc... But do you know the wonderful carnivorous plants nursery NATURE ET PAYSAGES? If no, visit the following new Webpage : NATURE et PAYSAGES 32360 Peyrusse-Massas - France Tel 33 (5) 62 65 52 48 - Fax 33 (5) 62 65 50 44 E.mail nature-et-paysages@mipnet.fr http://www.gascogne.com/natureetpaysages/ So, this Webpage is in French and English language. Regards, Fabien ZUNINO Laboratoire de Chimie XII UMR 6514 - Synthese et Reactivite des Substances Naturelles Faculte des Sciences - 40 av. du Recteur Pineau - 86022 Poitiers Cedex - FRANCE Tel : 05 49 45 37 02 - Fax : 05 49 45 35 01 e-mail : zunino@campus.univ-poitiers.fr ################### From: S.Ippenberger@t-online.de (S.Ippenberger) Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1999 18:15:42 +0100 Subject: Re: Gibberellic Acid > in Topic No. 6, Thu, 31 Dec 1998 "CP-MAN" wrote: > Subject: Gibberellic Acid ! PLEASE HELP !!!! > Message-ID: <001401be3520$0543af20$8b8d2399@default> > > I need gibberellic acid very soon. I checked all my nursery stores and no > one carries the stuff. Does anyone know of a good place on the web where I > can buy it? > > Thanks in advance, > Robert > In the U.S.A. one distributor of Gibberellic Acid A3 is Sigma Chemical Company, P.O. Box 14508, St. Louis, MO 63178 They sell it (in their European Catalogue) in batches of 500mg, 1g, 5g and 10g. Price for 500mg in Europe is about US$ 25 including postage. Hope this helps Stefan ################### From: Barry Meyers-Rice Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1999 09:41:57 -0800 (PST) Subject: CPN seeks a font Hi all, In an approaching issue of CPN we will need to print the greek male/female symbols. I am looking for a font that has this. I know that the font that came with word perfect 6.1, WP IconicSymbolsA, included these symbols. Does anyone on this list have this font, or a font that has the male/female symbols? I'd like to hear from you if you do. Time is of the essence! Please email me directly! Sincerely Barry ------------------------ Dr. Barry A. Meyers-Rice Carnivorous Plant Newsletter Conservation Coeditor barry@carnivorousplants.org http://www.carnivorousplants.org ################### From: CALIFCARN@aol.com Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1999 15:51:17 EST Subject: Re: We're freezing our gemmae off! Howdy folks, Peter here at California Carnivores in cold California. Well, at least the north state is cold while southern Cal simmers in 80 degree temperatures. It seems "these days" we have no more normal weather; every year it's extremes! I got a call from a producer at the Home and Garden Network, which is a cable network here in the States (don't know if its overseas). She reports that the program called "Extreme Gardens" will premier on the network January 17, Sunday, at 5 pm Pacific Time, and it has the segment they filmed here at the nursery last summer. It will run about a dozen times over the next few months. We haven't seen the segment ourselves, and we don't get the network on our cable service, but the producer promises to send us a copy. As to the Byblis gigantea discussion, as someone already mentioned, my experiment with the plants outdoors showed they survived brief freeze, but both plants died after being waterlogged for eight months in last year's El Nino and 90 inches of rain we got. I'll not try them again outdoors in winter here. We have only a few of Tom Carow's 1999 Calendars left, so if anyone's still interested, he who hesitates.... Th-th-th-th-th-th-that's all folks! Peter ################### From: "William M. Gorum, Jr." Date: Thu, 07 Jan 1999 16:42:14 -0600 Subject: introduction and a question Hello Everyone.... I've just recently joined the CP List, and I would like to take some time to introduce myself. My name is Will Gorum. I'm 21 years old and I live in Shreveport, Louisiana, USA. I am self-employed as an American Sign Language Interpreter (Interpreter for the Deaf), and I am currently growing VFT's, Cape Sundews (Drosera capensis), an unidentified (to me, anyway) Sundew and some sort of Nepenthes, who also is an uknown. My question is this. My unknown Sundew and Nepenthes were given to me by a friend who picked them up at a local nursery. According to the enclosed literature, they were both propagated by tissue culture. They are potted in 3 inch (7.5 cm) pots and they have those little plastic cup "dome" tops over them. Going by past experience, plants that I've left in the domes always fungus. I popped the dome off and checked the plants a few hours later. The mucous droplets had "evaporated" from the Sundew and the Nepenthes had started to wilt. I quickly placed the dome on them and placed them in a window receiving southern exposure sunlight. The sundew has wilted some, but the droplets are reforming, but the Nepenthes is starting to look "burnt" on the edge of the leaves, i.e., it looks like it is dying. Any suggestions will be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Will Gorum wgorum@softdisk.com ################### From: Paul Temple Date: Thu, 07 Jan 1999 22:46:06 +0000 Subject: Re: David's Brocchinia plantlets David Take photos!!! Chau Paul ################### From: "Tom Smith" Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1999 20:32:22 -0800 Subject: Wholesale Venus Flytraps Hello! I am interested to find a distributor or wholesaler of VFT. I would like them potted up and ready for shipment. VFT bulbs would also interest me. I am not interested in purchasing field collected specimens. Thanks to anyone that can help! Tom [HTML file part2 deleted by listprocessor] ################### From: CMcdon0923@aol.com Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1999 23:01:31 EST Subject: Texas Cp Enthusiasts My apologies to the majority of the list for posting this, but: A few weeks ago, Melissa Martin posted an intro and asked about other CP growers in the DFW Metroplex. I believe that including Melissa, there are at least four or five of "us" around here. Would there be any interest in getting together at a location convenient to everyone to meet? I offer myself as the 'point of contact' for coordinating this get- together. PLEASE REPLY TO ME DIRECTLY, AND NOT TO THE GENERAL LIST. (Melissa, if you have already gotten responses back from other DFW area growers, please include me, and let me know what's happening.) Thank you, and again, my apologies to the other listees. Craig McDonald Frisco, Texas ################### From: "Don Elkins/Sean Madison" Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1999 21:44:59 +1300 Subject: Re: carnivorous plant stamps The Scott# for the Laos series is 1237-1241 and for Triphyophyllum is 769c hope this helps Don Elkins [HTML file part2 deleted by listprocessor] ################### From: Emre_Gurcan@philips.com.tr Date: Fri, 8 Jan 1999 10:11:30 +0200 Subject: CP sources in LA One quick question: I will be in the LA area next week. Can anyone recommend a good source for CP in the Southern California area? You can email me privately. Thanks in advance for your help. Emre ################### From: John M Ford Date: Fri, 8 Jan 1999 11:25:24 -0500 (EST) Subject: Re: CPN seeks a font Barry, I'm using Windows95 and found them in the true type r_symbol font. Enter Win95 help | click the index tab | enter symbols in the search field | select inserting into documents | click the icon to bring up the character map and follow the instructions in the help window. With Word97, step 6 is not necessary. Hope this is what you were looking for, John jford@runet.edu > In an approaching issue of CPN we will need to print the greek male/female > symbols. I am looking for a font that has this. I know that the font that > came with word perfect 6.1, WP IconicSymbolsA, included these symbols. > > Does anyone on this list have this font, or a font that has the > male/female symbols? I'd like to hear from you if you do. Time is of the > essence! Please email me directly! > ################### From: "Christensen" Date: Sun, 3 Jan 1999 16:15:17 -0700 Subject: moss in my cp soil I often use a 1/2sand 1/2peat mixture for my cp. Always, I try to sterilize my soil using a microwave or oven. However, eventually moss begins to grow with my cp. Lucky for me, the moss that sneaks into my carnivorous plants is not a kind that will overwhelm a small cp. The moss that grows here is very compact, and tolerant of extreme temps. It survives 90F and low humidity in the summer and -10F cold in the winter. With my carnivorous plants, the tallest I've seen it grow is aprox. 1cm. I wonder, how many moss spores are floating in the air I'm breathing? How many moss spores are in a Liter of my sand? Maybe, the only way to grow carnivorous plants, without moss, is growing them in tissue culture media. However, there are carnivorous plants that grow better with moss. That's my impression from what I've read in CPN and this mailing list. Chad. ################### From: Chris Teichreb Date: Fri, 8 Jan 1999 10:30:10 -0800 (PST) Subject: Re: moss in my cp soil Hi Chad, > I often use a 1/2sand 1/2peat mixture for my cp. > Always, I try to sterilize my soil using a microwave or oven. > However, eventually moss begins to grow with my cp. That technique probably doesn't kill off all the spores as they can be heat resistant. If the moss is wetted and then heated, that will probably get rid of most of the spores. Pressure cooking (ie: autoclaving) will sterilize the soil for sure. > > Lucky for me, the moss that sneaks into my carnivorous plants > is not a kind that will overwhelm a small cp. > > The moss that grows here is very compact, and tolerant of > extreme temps. It survives 90F and low humidity in the summer > and -10F cold in the winter. With my carnivorous plants, the > tallest I've seen it grow is aprox. 1cm. This is the same stuff that grows in my pots, and rosetted sundews, especially when young, are easily overwhelmed. While it does grow taller than most of the terrestrial Utrics, it doesn't seem to affect them. > > I wonder, how many moss spores are floating in the air I'm > breathing? How many moss spores are in a Liter of my sand? If you're worried about moss spores germinating within your body, don't :)! If you're handling the soil with your hands, there's probably spores on your body, in your clothes, etc. Even going outside for a walk can result in picking up a few spores. It's just a matter of time! No, I'm not paranoid :)! > > Maybe, the only way to grow carnivorous plants, without moss, > is growing them in tissue culture media. However, there are > carnivorous plants that grow better with moss. That's my > impression from what I've read in CPN and this mailing list. Yes, I agree. If you don't want moss growing, you have to grow your plants in tc. The type of moss that grows on the soil is, however, unsuitable for cp cultivation as it's too fine and compact and is actually quite dry to the touch. However, mosses that you find growing in the bog are extremely ideal for many cp, IME, but do need occasional trimming. > > Chad. > > Happy growing, Chris ********************************** Chris Teichreb Department of Biological Sciences Simon Fraser University Burnaby, B.C. cjteichr@sfu.ca ********************************** ################### From: Chris Teichreb Date: Fri, 8 Jan 1999 10:22:07 -0800 (PST) Subject: Re: introduction and a question Hi Will, > My question is this. My unknown Sundew and Nepenthes were given to me > by a friend who picked them up at a local nursery. According to the > enclosed literature, they were both propagated by tissue culture. They > are potted in 3 inch (7.5 cm) pots and they have those little plastic > cup "dome" tops over them. Sound's like Gubler's to me. > Going by past experience, plants that I've > left in the domes always fungus. Good plan so far. See below though. > I popped the dome off and checked the > plants a few hours later. The mucous droplets had "evaporated" from the > Sundew and the Nepenthes had started to wilt. I quickly placed the dome > on them and placed them in a window receiving southern exposure > sunlight. The sundew has wilted some, but the droplets are reforming, > but the Nepenthes is starting to look "burnt" on the edge of the leaves, > i.e., it looks like it is dying. Any suggestions will be greatly > appreciated. Well, these plants have been grown in very 'soft' conditions, ie: extremely high humidity. The leaves don't have a chance to toughen up and will, as you've experienced, wilt when exposed to regular air humidity. You are right though in that the domes aren't beneficial as they will lead to fungus. So, what to do? First, take them away from the south window. If they're not already dead, they soon will be baked in the heat. Place them in a well lit area which is out of direct sunlight. Secondly, leave the dome on and slowly remove it over a period of a couple of weeks so that it slowly becomes accustomed to your climate and indoor conditions. Once acclimated to your humidity, then you can gradually move it closer to the window and direct sunlight. The moral of the above? Plants respond poorly to rapid changes in their environment, so care must be taken to account for this. Hope this helps! > > Thanks, > Will Gorum > wgorum@softdisk.com > > > Happy growing, Chris ********************************** Chris Teichreb Department of Biological Sciences Simon Fraser University Burnaby, B.C. cjteichr@sfu.ca ********************************** ################### From: CALIFCARN@aol.com Date: Fri, 8 Jan 1999 15:56:41 EST Subject: Re: Extreme Gardens Hello, all, Marilee here with an update from Peter here at California Carnivores...For those of you who'd like to see the show, it has been moved up to Sunday January 10th..It will run twice that day, at 9 and 12 EST...6 and 9 PST.... Its the Better Homes and Garden Television Network. I understand it will also still run on January 17th as originally posted..I'd love to see it, just to remember what the greenhouse looks like when its warm and the sun is out..LOL... ################### From: "Paul V. McCullough" Date: Fri, 08 Jan 1999 16:35:21 -0500 Subject: Winter in my terrarium! Well, this second big snow storm brought an inch or two of snow to the inside of my Klimagro! I decided since the dormancy requiring plants are sleeping now, that it wouldn't hurt to pile some snow on top of them- a few flytraps were still active and snapped up the snow much to my surprise! I didn't sprinkle any snow on top of my tropical sundews, but they'll still get the run off from the melting snow. It's a win-win arrangement. Looks really cool to see the minature snow land this has created! Time to fill up some empty distilled water bottles with snow-water! Cheers, Paul -- Paul V. McCullough Webpage: http://www.voicenet.com/~pvmcull ################### From: "Kelley, Ian" Date: Fri, 8 Jan 1999 14:23:08 -0800 Subject: Dormancy and Repotting - a question A question of general interest: I live in the temperate San Francisco Bay area, days in the 60's and nights in the 40's. I move my dormancy-loving plants from the windowsill to the outside fire escape for winter, generally November to February. I am getting ready to repot, both to divide some Sarraceneae (sp?) and to give some growing room to the others. I am interested on any insight into timing that folks care to offer - is it best to repot as I'm bringing them in for spring growing? Should I repot now, giving them another month of outdoor dormancy to adjust? Any repotting tips or tricks that folks have to share? It seems like a timely thread. Thanks in advance for any takers, - Ian ################### From: "Christensen" Date: Sun, 3 Jan 1999 23:49:04 -0700 Subject: Predaceous Fungi Among the most highly specialized of the fungi are the predaceous fungi, which have developed a number of mechanisms for capturing small animals they use as food. Although microscopic fungi with such habits have been know for many years, recently it has been learned that a number of species of gilled fungi also attack and consume the small roundworms known as nematodes. The oyster mushroom, Pleurotus ostreatus, for example, grows on decaying wood (a, b). Its hyphae secrete a substance that anesthetizes nematodes, after which the hyphae envelop and pene- trate these tiny worms. The fungus appar- ently uses them primarily as a source of nitrogen, thus supplementing the low lev- els of nitrogen that are present in wood. Some of the microscopic deutero- mycetes secrete on the surface of their hy- phae a sticky substance in which passing protozoa, rotifers, small insects, or other animals become stuck (c). More than 50 species of this group trap or snare nema- todes. In the presence of these round- worms, the fungal hyphae produce loops that swell rapidly, closing the opening like a noose when a nematode rubs against its inner surface. Presumably the stimulation of the cell wall increases the amount of os- motically active material in the cell, caus- ing water to enter the cells and increase their turgor pressure. The outer wall then splits, and a previously folded inner wall expands as the trap closes. (a)The oyster mushroom, Pleurotus ostreatus. (b)Hyphae of the oyster mushroom, which produce a substance that anesthetizes, converg- ing on the mouth of an immobilized nematode. (c)The predaceous deuteromycete Arthrobotrys anchonia has trapped a nematode. The trap consists of rings, each comprising three cells, which when triggered swell rapidly to about three times their original size in 0.1 second and strangle the nematode. Once the worm has been trapped, fungal hyphae grow into its body and digest it. ------------------------------------------------------ Biology of Plants sixth edition by Peter H. Raven, Ray F. Evert, Susan E. Eichhorn W.H. Freeman & Company Worth Publishers page 333 The letters (a), (b), and (c) refer to three captions. (a, b) G. L. Barron, University of Guelph (c) N. Allin and G. L. Barron, University of Guelph ################### From: aquilla2@juno.com Date: Sat, 9 Jan 1999 08:51:33 -0800 Subject: Re:CP on Home and Garden Television SUNDAY Jan 10 Saw a trailer for a feature to be shown, on the Home and Garden cable television channel, Sunday January 10 at 9pm EST. The feature was growing unusual plants and the video was VFT and Pitcher plants. Check your local cable TV or satelite TV guide for avaliability in your area. Can't elaborate any more detail as I just caught a glimpse of the end of the promotion. Michael A Sankovich ################### From: SCHLAUER@chemie.uni-wuerzburg.de Date: Sun, 10 Jan 1999 09:23:06 Subject: Re: Predaceous Fungi Dear Christensen, > recently it has been learned that a number > of species of gilled fungi also attack and > consume the small roundworms known > as nematodes. The oyster mushroom, > Pleurotus ostreatus, for example, grows > on decaying wood (a, b). The paper in which this stuff was published originally (Science 224:76-78, 1984) is *fifteen* (!) years old. Do you still consider this as "recent"? Whisky and Cognac of comparable age are usually (and quite legitimately) sold as very old. What is the news? Kind regards Jan ################### From: dmjoel@mail.netvision.net.il (Daniel M. Joel) Date: Sun, 10 Jan 1999 13:14:16 +0200 (IST) Subject: Visit to Western Australia Hello, I will be in Perth, Western Australia next month. I would love to supplement my visit with a CP-related side trip for the weekend of 19-21 February. I am very keen on meeting good friends like Cephalotus and Drosera spp in their native habitats, as well as local CPers. Could somebody suggest sites to be visited ? Please e-mail me privately . Thanks in advance! Danny Joel ________________________________________________________ Dr. Daniel M. Joel Agricultural Research Organization Newe-Ya'ar Research Center P.O. Box 1021 RAMAT-YISHAY 30095, Israel. ________________________________________________________ Email: dmjoel@netvision.net.il fax. +972 4 983 6936 tel. +972 4 953 9529 ________________________________________________________ ################### From: prion@abdn.ac.uk (Prion Gwyn) Date: Sun, 10 Jan 1999 16:20:05 -0800 Subject: Adrian Slack's Carnivorous Plants book for sale Dear CPers, I've got a spare hardback copy of the book Carnivorous Plants by Adrian Slack for sale if anyone's interested. I picked it up from a second hand bookshop in the knowledge that some of you might want it! It's in great condition and a recommended read for both beginners and experienced Cpers. I'll sell it to the highest bidder who mails me privately. Sensible offers please... Good growing Prion Gwyn Aberdeen Scotland ################### From: "jav" Date: Sun, 10 Jan 1999 13:09:01 -0500 Subject: CP.=Mushrooms I heard about carnivorous mushrooms on a site somewhere and I haven't been able to locate any information on them. If anyone has info on any sites with them or any nurseries that have them, please let me know. Thank You! Joanna Fiut jav@blazenet.net ################### From: JWi5770869@aol.com Date: Sun, 10 Jan 1999 15:49:27 EST Subject: Darlingtonia Mixes 1-3 inc. Dear all, I was lucky enough to obtain Mixes 1,2 & 3 of the Darlingtonia seed , offered through the ICPS (although I received mine from the UK CPS) earlier in 98. All of the seed germinated(after getting a good soaking in GA) and the seedlings continue to grow. I was under the impression that mix 1 was of the pale /yellow flowered form of Darlingtonia and, obviously, as they are still only seedlings I cannot test this yet :) However what I have noticed from all three mixes is the actual colour of the new growth of the seedlings. Mix 1 seems to be all pale green or yellow Mix 2 seems to have a mix of the above with some plants having red growth Mix 3 has all red growth. Do I take it that the pale form of Darlingtonia also refers to the colour of the traps as well as the flowers? Apologies if this has already been discussed on the list, but if not has anyone else noticed this? John 'still looking for the white flowered P.grandiflora' Wilden Southport Lancs UK ################### From: "Christensen" Date: Tue, 5 Jan 1999 06:35:20 -0700 Subject: Re: Predaceous Fungi :) I didn't know about the paper published in Science 224:76-78. While browsing through Biology of Plants, I found an article about predaceous fungi. I typed ONLY the contents of the article. It had the most information I had seen (in one place) about predaceous fungi. I thought it was interesting so I typed and sent it to the mailing list. Omitting my personal opinion, I was curious about peoples responses (if any). Fifteen years! I guess the authors of the text book typed ONLY the contents of the article, too! Jan, thank you for clarifying where that paper was originally published. Chad. >Dear Christensen, >> recently it has been learned that a number >> of species of gilled fungi also attack and >> consume the small roundworms known >> as nematodes. The oyster mushroom, >> Pleurotus ostreatus, for example, grows >> on decaying wood (a, b). >The paper in which this stuff was published originally (Science >224:76-78, 1984) is *fifteen* (!) years old. Do you still consider >this as "recent"? Whisky and Cognac of comparable age are usually >(and quite legitimately) sold as very old. >What is the news? >Kind regards >Jan ################### From: "TomsRareplants" Date: Sun, 10 Jan 1999 21:11:25 -0000 Subject: Anyone have seed for sale ? Hi, Im Looking for seed if you has seed please let me know what you have, I have 5000 seeds of venus fly trap. Thanks, laura frittsmb@msn.com ################### From: CMcdon0923@aol.com Date: Sun, 10 Jan 1999 21:39:30 EST Subject: HGTV Extreme Gardens I just finished watching the segment on California Carnivores, and all I can say is: "It was too short!" I easilly could have watched a whole hour just on CC. Excellent job Peter! Craig McDonald ################### From: "Mark Pogany" Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1999 02:22:01 -0500 Subject: Extreme Gardens I share the same sentiments with Craig McDonald describing the segment aired on California Carnivores- WAY TOO SHORT! HGTV should do at least an hour on Peter's place and another exploring some native CP habitats around the US. I almost missed the 3 second shot of Peter's S. purpurea, a clone grown from his original childhood NJ plant. Glad I taped it! Buried in 16" of lake effect snow, Mark Pogany Cleveland, Ohio markp@en.com ################### From: "Stefan Ploszak" Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1999 00:34:23 PST Subject: Re: Extreme Gardens >I just finished watching the segment on California Carnivores, and all I can >say is: "It was too short!" I easilly could have watched a whole hour just >on CC. Excellent job Peter! > >Craig McDonald I enjoyed the segment as well. Having visited CA Carnivores, I kept hoping they would show some of the plants I enjoyed seeing when I was there. I want to commend Peter for mentioning the plight of the Venus flytrap. I think the general population needs to recognize that our carelessness with wetlands has a price. It's a tragedy that we still don't repect this. Stefan Gastonia, NC ################### From: "John Gicking (BIO)" Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1999 13:26:14 -0500 (EST) XSubject: Re: Extreme Gardens Howw do I unsubscribe? ################### From: "Christensen" Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1999 08:45:42 -0700 Subject: www/catalog Pleurotus ostreatus http://www.fungi.com/plugs/plugsa.html Pleurotus ostreatus. You can buy it, there. I have not done business with them, so I can't say if they're 'good' or 'bad' with customers. GURNEY'S SEED & NURSERY CO. 1999 SPRING CATALOG In my catalog, on page 14 at the bottom, there is a PEARL OYSTER MUSHROOM KIT. I'm not sure it is Pleurotus ostreatus, the advertisement doesn't state the scientific name. Is Pleurotus ostreatus the only fungi called the Pearl Oyster Mushroom? ################### From: "CP-MAN" Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1999 18:54:50 -0500 Subject: HGTV cp with Peter D' Amato Hi, I saw that segment last night on Peter's cp nursery. Peter I think you were cheated. It seems that they gave the least time out of any of the people. :( Very nice nusery btw. That was the first time I had seen it. Robert ################### From: "tierney wayne" Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1999 16:23:55 PST Subject: Hi everyone! I'm new... Hello all, I just joined this listserv and wanted to introduce myself. My name is Tierney, and I live in San Jose, California. I'm a student at San Jose State. I've been growing some CP for about 6 years now but my collection is still pretty small. I'm hoping to expand it this spring. Sadly, because I live in a small apartment while I go to school, I'm housing my collection at my mom's house in nearby Santa Cruz, so I'm trying to compensate by subscribing to this and doing lots of reading about CP. I'm really interested in the evolution and phylogeny of CP; if anyone can point me in the right direction to do some reading on this subject, I'd be very appreciative. Thanks! -Tierney (Hybrid-T) ################### From: Mike Vogl Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1999 18:00:38 +0000 Subject: Roridula questions Hello all- I just acquired some Roridula dentata seeds, and was seeking some advice on germination, culture, etc... any info would be greatly appreciated. First, how do I get them to germinate? I have heard that they are tough little suckers. Would scratching the seed coat, boiling, fire, gibb acid, or other similar treatment help? Or is this kind of abuse unnecesarry for Roridula? Second: when and if they do germinate, how do I care for them? Soil, light, humidity, etc... basically I can put them where it is cool, bright and wet with my Helis; warmer, dimmer and equally moist with my Neps, Byblis, Droseras, etc...; or under "hard" conditions with Brocchinia. What would be best? PS- Although I realize that this is a long shot, I thought it would be really cool to have a colony of assassin bugs on them. I know this has been done by researchers, but I don't think the local PetSmart has much in the way of a Capsid Bug aisle... so does anyone know of a source? Thanks a lot- -Jonathan Mitchell ################### From: Hayes7@aol.com Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1999 20:56:44 EST Subject: Re: Roridula questions Jonathan and list, > First, how do I get them to germinate? I have heard that they are tough > little suckers. Would scratching the seed coat, boiling, fire, gibb > acid, or other similar treatment help? Or is this kind of abuse > unnecesarry for Roridula? I can't say if all that is necessary..... I planted 6 seeds and got 2 to germinate without anything fancy at all. And the seed sat here for two years before I planted it..... I just put them in a tray of 50/50 peat sand, put a humidity dome on it and sat it in a west window. A friend's child thoughtfully pulled out the seed tags in the interim and I forgot about them for about 6-7 months.... Then I saw something coming up. In fact, and I am ashamed to admit it, I pulled one out thinking it was a weed before I realized what it was! (Oops.... to CP hell I go) > Second: when and if they do germinate, how do I care for them? Soil, > light, humidity, etc... basically I can put them where it is cool, > bright and wet with my Helis; warmer, dimmer and equally moist with my > Neps, Byblis, Droseras, etc...; or under "hard" conditions with > Brocchinia. What would be best? The remaining plant has been growing very well, again without any special care. It is sitting under fluorescent lights and enclosed in a humidity dome. That's it. I would say the conditions would be best described as moist, bright and warm. > PS- Although I realize that this is a long shot, I thought it would be > really cool to have a colony of assassin bugs on them. I know this has > been done by researchers, but I don't think the local PetSmart has much > in the way of a Capsid Bug aisle... so does anyone know of a source? If you find any, please advise so I can get some for mine :) Take care & keep on growing, Thomas K. Hayes DANGEROUS PLANTS www.tcscs.com/~thayes ################### From: Rick Walker Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1999 20:18:05 -0800 Subject: Reminder to send in your ICPS/CPN renewal It's nearly mid January and I've only received 250 CPN renewals. That means that about 750 ICPS members have not yet renewed. PLEASE, please renew your membership before the March issue. Early renewals are simple and easy. I only need to set a bit in the database and deposit your check. After the March issue, renewals require a backorder request which is a lot more work for Tom Johnson and I, and delays your issue by up to an extra month. Please, please send in your ICPS membership renewals before February 1st for unbroken CPN delivery. Avoid the backorder crush! Don't wait until April to notice that your March issue never arrived. By that time, you'll be lucky to get it in June! Thanks, -- Rick Walker ICPS membership coordinator Membership in the ICPS is $20 North America / $25 Overseas, and comes with 4 color issues of the Carnivorous Plant Newsletter and access to our seedbank. See http://www.carnivorousplants.org for subscription and renewal details ################### From: "PHILL MANN" Date: Tue, 12 Jan 1999 12:02:42 -0800 Subject: I'M BACK Greetings to all and a belated Happy New Year. I'm finally home and ready to start the year on a fresh note. If there is anyone whom I owe plants or are chasing any species in particular. I have nearly completed the update of the price list, so all those requests for the list should be ready by next week. I wish to thank very much all those who offered support during my recent medical crisis. It was truely appreciated and helped me through the hard times. Regards Phill Mann P.O. Box 193 Harvey 6220 Western Australia philmann@altu.net.au http://webnews.altu.net.au/~philmann SPECIALISING IN NEPENTHES ################### From: drury6@juno.com Date: Sun, 10 Jan 1999 15:37:38 -0600 Subject: D. Adalea How can I get my D. Adalae to bloom? It is tropical and doesn't require any dormancy,and it has been on the photoperiod that I have here at 33 degrees north lattitude since fall. Might it bloom in spring, without any help? I apologize, but this free email service, juno doesn't support file attachments, or HTML. ################### From: "Richard Jenkins" Date: Tue, 12 Jan 1999 01:03:26 PST Subject: Re: ICPS renewal Dear Rick and All, Although the ICPS is International it is quite difficult to renew membership from a non-US country. In the UK the only way I'm aware of is to go to the bank to get some dollars and to send cash which is not ideal. If I want to order back issues (which I do) this would involve sending a large amount of cash whcih is then a gamble. Additionally most UK banks won't dispense $5 notes which makes the $25 fee difficult. Did anything come of Barry Meyers-Rice investigation of credit card payment? Alternatively, would non-dollar personal cheques be suitable? Some US bookstores accept cheques in pounds sterling without hesitation. Richard ################### From: "Rogan Roth" Date: Tue, 12 Jan 1999 13:54:27 +0200 Subject: Roridula germination Hello Jonathan Mitchell et al. My experience and the experience of others who are doing research on the germination of "fynbos" species (Roridula spp. are plants from the fynbos regions of the southern and western Cape) is that they respond to treatment with "smoke water" - a smoke solution in water produced by the burning of various organic residues (fynbos species and grasses such as Themeda triandra, etc.). The Kirstenbosch botanic gardens produce a product called "Instant Smoke Plus Seed Primer" which is filter-paper circles saturated with a smoke solution and then dried. One circle soaked in 50ml water and the seeds soaked in the resultant solution for 24h does the trick. This treatment works for many plants including proteas, ericas, Anigozanthus, Leschenaultia, grasses, etc. I would certainly consider this as a treatment for many carnivorous plants and Roridula spp. as well. Instant Smoke Plus can be obtained from: D.Orriel - Seed Exporters, 45 Frape Avenue, Mt.Yokine, Perth, Western Australia 6060. TEL: (09) 344 2290 FAX: (09) 344 8982 Best regards Rogan Roth. (roth@botany.unp.ac.za) ################### From: "Mellard, David" Date: Tue, 12 Jan 1999 07:13:50 -0500 Subject: RE: ICPS renewal >Although the ICPS is International it is quite difficult to renew >membership from a non-US country. In the UK the only way I'm aware of is >to go to the bank to get some dollars and to send cash which is not > ideal. > I've never used it, but couldn't international money orders be used. In the US, international money orders are available at the US post office. I assume they are also available through banks. David ################### From: "Semanchuk, Phil J" Date: Tue, 12 Jan 1999 09:52:14 -0500 Subject: RE: www/catalog Pleurotus ostreatus > http://www.fungi.com/plugs/plugsa.html > Pleurotus ostreatus. You can buy it, there. > I have not done business with them, so I can't > say if they're 'good' or 'bad' with customers. I have made one purchase from them and I was satisfied. Philip URL du Jour: http://www.netlink.co.nz/~monpa/ ################### From: ricell@juno.com Date: Tue, 12 Jan 1999 10:00:38 -0700 Subject: Re: carnivorous plant stamps Don, On Thu, 7 Jan 1999 "Don Elkins/Sean Madison" writes: >The Scott# for the Laos series is 1237-1241 and for Triphyophyllum >is 769c Thanks for the information. You don't by chance know what the numbers are for some of the European numbering systems like Stanley Gibbons, Michel or Yvert & Tellier do you? Rich Ellis, Boulder, CO "ricell@juno.com" http://www.geocities.com/RainForest/Vines/8564/ ################### From: Johannes.Marabini@t-online.de (Johannes Marabini) Date: Tue, 12 Jan 1999 19:19:27 +0100 Subject: Pollen again! Hi all Nepenthesgrower, I have still (just now) pollen of Nepenthes lowii and Nepenthes spatulata available. Who is interessted? Johannes -- @email: johannes.marabini@t-online.de Homepage http://home.t-online.de/home/johannes.marabini/index.htm ################### From: CALIFCARN@aol.com Date: Tue, 12 Jan 1999 17:42:34 EST Subject: Re: Howdy from California Carnivores Greeting folks, Peter here at California Carnivores. Thanks for the nice comments about the tv show on H & G network. We haven't seen it ourselves as our cable doesn't carry it and the producer promised to send us a copy. We've received many phone calls and email messages about it. There will be another show on us on Rebecca's Garden this winter, but we don't yet know when. We had a lot of fun doing that one and it should be longer. (I don't know how long the H & G show was). I certainly can't help but suggest, to those of you who thought the show was brief, to let the cable network know you'd like a longer episode-- we here at California Carnivores certainly won't complain!!! Th-th-th-th-th-that's all folks! Peter ################### From: "Fabio D'Alessi" Date: Wed, 13 Jan 99 12:09:02 MET Subject: Re: ICPS renewal > Dear Rick and All, > > Although the ICPS is International it is quite difficult to renew > membership from a non-US country. In the UK the only way I'm aware of is > to go to the bank to get some dollars and to send cash which is not > ideal. If I want to order back issues (which I do) this would involve > sending a large amount of cash whcih is then a gamble. Additionally most > UK banks won't dispense $5 notes which makes the $25 fee difficult. > Did anything come of Barry Meyers-Rice investigation of credit card > payment? Alternatively, would non-dollar personal cheques be suitable? > Some US bookstores accept cheques in pounds sterling without hesitation. > > Richard I agree. Being italian, and quite busy with work and all, it has always been a problem for me. That's why I have always paid with months of delay... and often helped by a US friend who sends money for me in. A suggestion: couldn't the association find a person in Europe able to gather payments from EEC people? Now with the Euro it should be simpler. People from the EEC could pay in Euro to someone and then this person would make just one exchange operation and send just a US non-transferrable check to the US. Fabio ################### From: Rand Nicholson Date: Wed, 13 Jan 1999 07:41:35 -0400 Subject: Re: ICPS renewal >Dear Rick and All, > >Although the ICPS is International it is quite difficult to renew >membership from a non-US country. In the UK the only way I'm aware of is >to go to the bank to get some dollars and to send cash which is not >ideal. If I want to order back issues (which I do) this would involve >sending a large amount of cash whcih is then a gamble. Additionally most >UK banks won't dispense $5 notes which makes the $25 fee difficult. >Did anything come of Barry Meyers-Rice investigation of credit card >payment? Alternatively, would non-dollar personal cheques be suitable? >Some US bookstores accept cheques in pounds sterling without hesitation. > >Richard Hi Richard: I simply mark my cheques going out side Canada to be cashed in the funds of the receiving country. This is especially easy for the US. Cheques marked "In US Funds" get cashed at the going exchange rate an the date they go through. Alternately, an International Money Order can be bought for the exact amount in the currency of the receiving country. I have never had any problems with these methods in the US. I understand that some European and Asian banks make rediculous charges in cashing some types of currency vouchers, so best to check ahead with the receipient before sending. You could always try converting the fee to the Euro ... ;-) Kind Regards, Rand Rand Nicholson New Brunswick Maritime Canada Zone 5-ish (debatable) ################### From: Bob Lewis Date: Wed, 13 Jan 1999 15:20:33 +0000 (GMT) Subject: Change of address for Bob Lewis Hi, Due to a change in job, my old address of: b.lewis@bangor.ac.uk wil not work for much longer. Please use bob@nythfa.freeserve.co.uk from now on. Thanks. Bob ---------------------- Bob Lewis b.lewis@bangor.ac.uk bob@nythfa.freeserve.co.uk ################### From: "Richard Jenkins" Date: Wed, 13 Jan 1999 09:25:59 PST Subject: Re: ICPS renewal Dear David etc, >> In the UK the only way I'm aware of is to go to the bank to get >> some dollars and to send cash which is not ideal. > I've never used it, but couldn't international money orders be used. > In the > US, international money orders are available at the US post office. I > assume they are also available through banks. Unfortunately the banks over here charge about $15 for an international money order which is basically extortion. Richard ################### From: Rick Walker Date: Wed, 13 Jan 1999 12:31:05 -0800 Subject: Re:ICPS renewal > From: "Richard Jenkins" writes: > Although the ICPS is International it is quite difficult to renew > membership from a non-US country. In the UK the only way I'm aware of is > to go to the bank to get some dollars and to send cash which is not > ideal. If I want to order back issues (which I do) this would involve > sending a large amount of cash which is then a gamble. Simply get an international money order from a bank, or a postal money order. The ICPS now accepts multi-year subscription, so please consider renewing for 2 or 3 years at once. That will reduce your hassle by a factor of 2 or 3x and will also help reduce the number of envelopes and checks that I have to handle each year. I would encourage all members to consider doing this. Another advantage is that if subscription rates need to be raised, multi-year memberships will be honored and grandfathered in at the original rate. If you live next to a CP friend, or are a member of a club, then make arrangements to send a single money order for the entire club. Simply send a money order along with the bundle of membership forms. Alternatively, you can do some seed/plant trades with a U.S. friend and have them pay your membership for you. Barry is looking into credit cards and WEB payment, but such service is not yet available. We'll announce it widely as soon as it is in place. kind regards, -- Rick Walker > > > > ------------------------------ > > Topic No. 2 > > Date: Tue, 12 Jan 1999 13:54:27 +0200 > From: "Rogan Roth" > To: cp@opus.hpl.hp.com > Subject: Roridula germination > Message-ID: > > Hello Jonathan Mitchell et al. > > My experience and the experience of others who are doing research on > the germination of "fynbos" species (Roridula spp. are plants from the > fynbos regions of the southern and western Cape) is that they respond > to treatment with "smoke water" - a smoke solution in water produced > by the burning of various organic residues (fynbos species and grasses > such as Themeda triandra, etc.). > > The Kirstenbosch botanic gardens produce a product called "Instant > Smoke Plus Seed Primer" which is filter-paper circles saturated with a > smoke solution and then dried. One circle soaked in 50ml water and > the seeds soaked in the resultant solution for 24h does the trick. > This treatment works for many plants including proteas, ericas, > Anigozanthus, Leschenaultia, grasses, etc. > > I would certainly consider this as a treatment for many carnivorous > plants and Roridula spp. as well. > > Instant Smoke Plus can be obtained from: > > D.Orriel - Seed Exporters, 45 Frape Avenue, Mt.Yokine, Perth, Western > Australia 6060. > > TEL: (09) 344 2290 FAX: (09) 344 8982 > > Best regards > Rogan Roth. > > (roth@botany.unp.ac.za) > > > ------------------------------ > > Topic No. 3 > > Date: Tue, 12 Jan 1999 07:13:50 -0500 > From: "Mellard, David" > To: "'cp@opus.hpl.hp.com'" > Subject: RE: ICPS renewal > Message-ID: > > > >Although the ICPS is International it is quite difficult to renew > >membership from a non-US country. In the UK the only way I'm aware of is > >to go to the bank to get some dollars and to send cash which is not > > ideal. > > > I've never used it, but couldn't international money orders be used. In the > US, international money orders are available at the US post office. I > assume they are also available through banks. > > David > > ------------------------------ > > Topic No. 4 > > Date: Tue, 12 Jan 1999 09:52:14 -0500 > From: "Semanchuk, Phil J" > To: "'cp@opus.hpl.hp.com'" > Subject: RE: www/catalog Pleurotus ostreatus > Message-ID: <854F7121CC2BD211856000805FE6EBD2010BA057@US4N49> > > > http://www.fungi.com/plugs/plugsa.html > > Pleurotus ostreatus. You can buy it, there. > > I have not done business with them, so I can't > > say if they're 'good' or 'bad' with customers. > > I have made one purchase from them and I was satisfied. > > Philip > URL du Jour: http://www.netlink.co.nz/~monpa/ > > > > ------------------------------ > > Topic No. 5 > > Date: Tue, 12 Jan 1999 10:00:38 -0700 > From: ricell@juno.com > To: cp@opus.hpl.hp.com > Subject: Re: carnivorous plant stamps > Message-ID: <19990112.105939.-194413.1.Ricell@juno.com> > > Don, > > On Thu, 7 Jan 1999 "Don Elkins/Sean Madison" > writes: > >The Scott# for the Laos series is 1237-1241 and for Triphyophyllum > >is 769c > > Thanks for the information. You don't by chance know what the numbers > are for some of the European numbering systems like Stanley Gibbons, > Michel or Yvert & Tellier do you? > > Rich Ellis, Boulder, CO "ricell@juno.com" > http://www.geocities.com/RainForest/Vines/8564/ > > > ------------------------------ > > Topic No. 6 > > Date: Tue, 12 Jan 1999 19:19:27 +0100 > From: Johannes.Marabini@t-online.de (Johannes Marabini) > To: Multiple recipients of list > Subject: Pollen again! > Message-ID: <369B922F.8D793C52@t-online.de> > > Hi all Nepenthesgrower, > > I have still (just now) pollen of Nepenthes lowii and Nepenthes > spatulata available. Who is interessted? > > Johannes > -- > @email: johannes.marabini@t-online.de > Homepage http://home.t-online.de/home/johannes.marabini/index.htm > > > > ------------------------------ > > Topic No. 7 > > Date: Tue, 12 Jan 1999 17:42:34 EST > From: CALIFCARN@aol.com > To: cp@opus.hpl.hp.com > Subject: Re: Howdy from California Carnivores > Message-ID: <908fb457.369bcfda@aol.com> > > Greeting folks, Peter here at California Carnivores. > Thanks for the nice comments about the tv show on H & G network. We > haven't seen it ourselves as our cable doesn't carry it and the producer > promised to send us a copy. We've received many phone calls and email messages > about it. > There will be another show on us on Rebecca's Garden this winter, but > we don't yet know when. We had a lot of fun doing that one and it should be > longer. (I don't know how long the H & G show was). I certainly can't help but > suggest, to those of you who thought the show was brief, to let the cable > network know you'd like a longer episode-- we here at California Carnivores > certainly won't complain!!! > Th-th-th-th-th-that's all folks! Peter > > ------------------------------ > > End of CP Digest 1690 > ********************* ################### From: Oliver.Gluch@t-online.de (Oliver Gluch) Date: Wed, 13 Jan 1999 21:29:21 +0100 Subject: Re: ICPS renewal >>Although the ICPS is International it is quite difficult to renew >>membership from a non-US country. In the UK the only way I'm aware of is >>to go to the bank to get some dollars and to send cash which is not >> ideal. >> >I've never used it, but couldn't international money orders be used. In the >US, international money orders are available at the US post office. I >assume they are also available through banks. > >David Hi David, generally your idea is suitable, but the costs for an international money order for example here at a local German post office is much higher than the membership fee itself. I agree with Richard that the acceptance of payment by credit card will be very helpful and less expensive for non-US members. And there are a lot of non-US members I think. Oliver ---------------------------------------------------- Oliver Gluch Lindenallee 44 26122 Oldenburg Germany eMail: Oliver.Gluch@t-online.de Internet: http://home.t-online.de/home/oliver.gluch ----------------------------------------------------- ################### From: JWi5770869@aol.com Date: Wed, 13 Jan 1999 20:14:22 EST Subject: Payment for subs Dear All, >I've never used it, but couldn't international money orders be used. In the US, international money orders are available at the US post office. I assume they are also available through banks. I've tried to use it once in the UK (thru the Royal Bank of Scotland BTW, what wonderful service we have in our banks over here , I can't wait for the Euro to be standardised as common currency in Europe! )and was told that it "wasn't worth the time and trouble for such a small amount" . I've always tried to use cash in these circumstances. However would the society be able to take American Express Travellers cheques(Dollars) made out to the society? These can be obtained from any travel agents etc (in the UK). I believe that these (or their equivalent in $) can be obtained worldwide rather than the 'ubiquitous' Int. Mon. order. Please advise. John 'awaiting the white flowered Ping grandiflora' Wilden Southport Lancs. UK ################### From: "Lee Stradley" Date: Thu, 14 Jan 1999 05:37:26 -0500 Subject: New to the list Hi, I just started growing a few CP's in my greenhouse, and have become fascinated with them. I have an orchid business in NY State. I have been reading The Savage Garden and am glad I ordered it. I have a question. I recently bought 2 VF traps in those domes. One is a single plant 3+ACI-across, the other is a group of small plants that take up much of the 3+ACI- pot. The plants look very healthy, but I am wonder if I should put them in a cool spot in the greenhouse 40+-,and let them go dormant, or let them grow? And Why? Thanks, Lee Stradley [HTML file part2 deleted by listprocessor] ################### From: "Stefan P. Wolf" Date: Thu, 14 Jan 1999 12:42:56 +0100 Subject: GERMANY: collective ICPS membership fee transfer Hi CP'ers, =============================================================== in English -- following the list rules -- German translation is found at the end! === Text in Englisch gemaess Listenregeln -- deutsche Uebersetzung folgt am Ende! =============================================================== I will do a collective money transfer for German ICPS members this year as the trouble and cost for a single transfer scared me away from last year's membership. So I want to make a helpful step this year. I hope to reduce the per-person-charge below DM 5.00 but to have actual figures I need a binding word for participation by Friday next week (January 22) LATEST! I will then calculate the actual charge (which will be a maximum of DM 5.00 as I will eat the rest if only one person shows up :-) and tell you the very same day. You then have 10 days to pay to my account (February 01) and I will do a safe (but expensive) money transfer to the ICPS for the participating persons who transferred to me IN TIME. Fill out and quote back TO ME, NOT THE LIST!! ============================================= Yes, I want to participate in your collective ICPS membership fee transfer for _____ years. Take my word that I will transfer the amount stated by you (max. ICPS fee + DM 5) IN TIME (until February 1st). ============================================= ==== German translation of the above text follows === Ich mache dieses Jahr eine Sammelueberweisung fuer die ICPS-Bei- traege deutscher Mitglieder, nachdem mich selbst die Kosten fuer eine Einzelueberweisung im letztem Jahr von der Mitgliedschaft abgehalten haben und ich etwas beitragen moechte. Ich hoffe die Ueberweisungskosten fuer jeden einzelnen unter 5,- DM druecken zu koennen, aber um es genau berechnen zu koennen brauche ich bis zum Freitag naechster Woche (22. Januar) SPAETESTENS! Danach berechne ich die genauen Kosten fuer jeden (die maximal DM 5,- be- tragen werden, weil ich selbst dann den Rest uebernehme, wenn nur ein einziger mitmacht :-) und teile sie Euch noch am gleichen Tag mit. Dann muesst Ihr binnen 10 Tagen (01. Februar) auf mein Konto ueberweisen und ich mache eine sichere (aber teure) Ueberweisung an die ICPS fuer diejenigen, die RECHTZEITIG ueberwiesen haben. Ausfuellen und AN MICH, NICHT DIE LISTE schicken! ========================================= Ja, ich moechte an der Sammelueberweisung fuer den ICPS-Beitrag fuer __ Jahre teil- nehmen. Ich verspreche, den von Dir noch zu nennenden Betrag (max. Beitrag + DM 5) RECHTZEITIG (bis 01. Februar) zu ueberwei- sen. ========================================= Stefan Wolf. -- Dipl.-Inform. Stefan P. Wolf ................................................ mail : Zehlendorfer Str. 69, 24111 Kiel, GERMANY phone: (+49 431) 5973173 * fax: (+49 431) 697568 CP books >> http://www.angelfire.com/de/cpbooks/ ................................................ ################### From: "Carl Strohmenger (HSC)" Date: Thu, 14 Jan 1999 08:14:01 -0500 (EST) Subject: Re: New to the list On Thu, 14 Jan 1999, Lee Stradley wrote: > Hi, I just started growing a few CP's > I recently bought 2 VF traps in those domes. One > is a single plant 3inches across, the other is a group of small plants > that take up much of the 3inch pot. The plants look very healthy, > but I am wonder if I should put them in a cool spot in the > greenhouse 40+-,and let them go dormant, or let them grow? And Why? A temperature of 40 +/- deg. F is probably not low enough for effective dormancy in VFTs. If you do not have lower temperatures available, then let them grow, but get them out of the 3 inch pots. Re-pot into a 6 inch or one gallon pot with a 50:50 mix of sand:peat and let them stand in a shallow tray of water (1 inch deep). They should do well there for 5 years +/-. Dormancy seems to help the plants grow better in the next year, but I also live where temperatures do not fall low enough for effective dormancy, and I have success with VFTs here in central Florida. They will do OK, although i do not get the huge traps that some more northern growers report. My VFTs routinely get traps about 1.25 inches across, while I read that some people report traps about twice that size in northern areas. - Carl ################### From: "Mellard, David" Date: Thu, 14 Jan 1999 09:21:37 -0500 Subject: VFT >A temperature of 40 +/- deg. F is probably not low enough for effective >dormancy in VFTs. If you do not have lower temperatures available, then let >them grow, but get them out of the 3 inch pots. Re-pot into a 6 inch or one Reducing light levels also helps with inducing dormancy. David Atlanta ################### From: Barry Meyers-Rice Date: Thu, 14 Jan 1999 09:08:31 -0800 (PST) Subject: VISA card payments for the ICPS Hi all, Yes, in the future the ICPS will be able to accept VISA payments. I'm negotiating with a few different companies on payment methods. But in any event, this procedure will not be ready for this year's renewals. So please don't postpone renewing your membership ASAP! Barry ------------------------ Dr. Barry A. Meyers-Rice Carnivorous Plant Newsletter Conservation Coeditor barry@carnivorousplants.org http://www.carnivorousplants.org ################### From: Tom Massey Date: Thu, 14 Jan 1999 14:39:53 -0500 Subject: frog eating Sarrs. Well, the topic heading is part in jest (or is it part ingest!- HA), but I happened to be looking at my Sarrs. the other day and found two pitchers whose contents included a dead frog. In one case the pitcher (a large lueco.) had died and toppled over right where the frog was wedged. When the pitcher split the legs ended up dangling out of the broken half of the pitcher. After seeing this I started looking around and found a second plant, a rubra x purp. hybrid, that had a dead frog floating in the soup at the bottom of the pitcher. So far this hasn't damaged the pitcher, but I don't know how long the frog has been there, so who knows? As I and other people on the list have reported before, frogs often sit in Nep and Sarr. pitchers during the day, retreating out of reach down the pitcher tube when they are disturbed. Then at night, they emerge and feed on the moths that are attracted to the pitchers. For these two, the only thing I can guess is that they may be more the victims of cold weather than victims of overachieving plants. We have had one of our few cold spells over the last month, and while we never got below freezing, we did have one night down to the mid thirties. In both cases the frogs were nose up, and I suspect that they remained in the pitchers as temperatures dropped hoping to gain protection from the cold, only to be trapped when temps fell to far. I have no idea how sensitive frogs are to cold weather, but I think my victims may be cuban tree frogs rather than our native tree frogs, so perhaps that helps account. Anyway, call Moulder and Scully, I wanna be on TV! Tom in Fl. ################### From: "It's me again!!!" Date: Thu, 14 Jan 1999 22:05:28 +0100 Subject: Sarracenia Hello I have just recived Sarracenia the 14 January I got alata, leucephylla, flava and purpurea. Am I to put it in dark cold place or under a lamp. Do they have enough dormancy. Please tell me what to do. One more thing has anyone ever heard of fluorescent bulbs for plants that help grow faster and better? thank you kowal PS. Sarracenia leucephylla which I got was covered with fungus. I cut the pitchers and treated it with spray against fungus. Than put it into soil it has some fresh buds. Will it grow? [HTML file part2 deleted by listprocessor] ################### From: johnson Date: Fri, 15 Jan 1999 10:31:11 +1300 Subject: Delete from mail list.... January 15th, 1999 Dear Secretary, Many thanks for the copies of the Digest that you have been sending me. Unfortunately I really don't seem to have the time to read the "high volume" of information you send out. Please delete me from your mail list & I will just log onto your Web page for the odd update. Many thanks, Barbara Johnson ################### From: Angie Nichols Date: Thu, 14 Jan 1999 22:48:53 -0800 Subject: CC on HGTV For those of you who missed last weeks segment on California Carnivores on the Home and Garden channel, it will be repeated this Sunday at 5 EST. Angie Nichols, SC. ################### From: Tobias Isenberg Date: Fri, 15 Jan 1999 09:20:58 +0100 Subject: Re: VISA card payments for the ICPS Barry, > Yes, in the future the ICPS will be able to accept VISA payments. I'm > negotiating with a few different companies on payment methods. But in any > event, this procedure will not be ready for this year's renewals. So > please don't postpone renewing your membership ASAP! If you can manage to set up a way to pay with VISA, please also try to set up a way for Mastercard as well. It is at least as widespread as VISA an not everybody has both. But if you can accept both cards everybody outside of the US and Canada schould have a way to pay with credit card. Thanks! Tobias Isenberg (Tobias.Isenberg@gmx.de) ################### From: Johannes.Marabini@t-online.de (Johannes Marabini) Date: Fri, 15 Jan 1999 18:00:35 +0100 Subject: adress of John de Kanel Hi all, has anybody the e-mail adress of John de Kanel? Johannes -- @email: johannes.marabini@t-online.de Homepage http://home.t-online.de/home/johannes.marabini/index.htm ################### From: L235@aol.com Date: Fri, 15 Jan 1999 12:01:37 EST Subject: Re: VFT dormancy Beg to differ with those who have said that 40 degree (F) isn't low enough to induce dormancy in VFTs. In my experience it's fine, although, as David Mellard said, lower light levels do help a great deal. My plants are in the northeast-facing window of an unheated garage, with temps certainly no lower than 40 degrees. All are definitely dormant (summer petiole growth gone, tight winter rosettes, extremely slow or non-apparent growth). Even in full sun, I think that 40 degrees should be fine. Any other experiences out there? Jay Lechtman Ashburn, Virginia, USA "fine line between a hobby and a mental illness" ... Dave Barry ################### From: Paul Temple Date: Fri, 15 Jan 1999 22:20:32 +0000 Subject: American Express Travellers Cheques Well spotted John. I paid for tons of backissues and membership using American Express Travellers Cheques. They are THE international currency accepted anywhere except Cuba (I tried!). They are automatically insured )for free) if signed on receipt (at issueing bank or AMEX branch) and useable like cash in the US, accepted in all banks. Don't see why ICPS will have changed their practice of accepting them. Much cheaper than all other ways available in Europe, short of getting help from very friendly Germans willing to administrate on behalf of others (how impressive)! Chau Paul ################### From: Chris Teichreb Date: Fri, 15 Jan 1999 14:51:52 -0800 (PST) Subject: Warm weather temperate cp's Hello all, This latest thread about maintaining temperate cp's in areas such as Florida has me interested. I'm curious as to how growers in this region manage to keep Darlingtonia and some of the more northern Sarracenia alive? Do you find it is more a matter of day length rather than temps (as was suggested by others), or are you going to a lot of trouble (ie: not refrigerating your food to make room for the plants)? Just curious! Happy growing, Chris ********************************** Chris Teichreb Department of Biological Sciences Simon Fraser University Burnaby, B.C. cjteichr@sfu.ca ********************************** ################### From: Chris Teichreb Date: Fri, 15 Jan 1999 15:24:38 -0800 (PST) Subject: Drosophyllum germination Hi all, I received some Drosophyllum seed today and was wondering what techniques people use for germinating seed and for planting afterwards (if different from Peter D'Amato's or Adrian Slack's methods). If it matters (and it does seem to when it comes to this plant), I'm in the Pacific Northwest, ie: cool, wet winters generally above freezing, and warmish humid summers (although this past summer was like living back on the prairies). Actually, on that last point, if anyone from the Vancouver/Seattle and area grows Drosophyllum successfully, let me in on your secret :)! Thanks in advance. Happy growing, Chris ********************************** Chris Teichreb Department of Biological Sciences Simon Fraser University Burnaby, B.C. cjteichr@sfu.ca ********************************** ################### From: JWi5770869@aol.com Date: Fri, 15 Jan 1999 18:39:28 EST Subject: ICPS Dear All As posted in a previous digest, can American Express Dollar travellers cheques be used to pay for membership fees? (I post this to the list, rather than the ICPS so that others can benefit from the reply) John Wilden Southport Lancs. UK ################### From: "Carl Strohmenger (HSC)" Date: Fri, 15 Jan 1999 19:07:12 -0500 (EST) Subject: Re: Warm weather temperate cp's I haven't come across anyone in central Florida who has been able to keep Darlingtonia alive outside of a refrigerated box! Some growers tell about starting the seeds in cool conditions, and then allowing an ice block to melt and drip onto/into the soil around the plant, but eventually they miss a scheduled ice renewal and the plants are gone. I have never tried it myself. - Carl On Fri, 15 Jan 1999, Chris Teichreb wrote: > Hello all, > > This latest thread about maintaining temperate cp's in areas such > as Florida has me interested. I'm curious as to how growers in this > region manage to keep Darlingtonia and some of the more northern > Sarracenia alive? ################### From: relliott@senet.com.au (Russell Elliott) Date: Sat, 16 Jan 1999 16:20:46 +1030 Subject: change of email + last 3 weeks email LOST! Hi all, Sorry to post this here, but my email address had to be quickly changed. My old address was elliott@nexus.edu.au, and my new one is now relliott@senet.com.au I haven't been able to access my Nexus address for the last few weeks, so could anyone who has sent orders etc to my old Nexus address please resend the my new one. Also Tom Hayes and Laura Estes...Could you please drop me a line again about the trades we were organising? Good Growing, -Russell Elliott ################### From: "Mark Pogany" Date: Sat, 16 Jan 1999 03:12:19 -0500 Subject: VFT Dormancy Jay wrote in CP digest 1693: . My plants are in the northeast-facing window of an unheated garage, with temps certainly no lower than 40 degrees. All are definitely dormant (summer petiole growth gone, tight winter rosettes, extremely slow or non-apparent growth). Even in full sun, I think that 40 degrees should be fine. Any other experiences out there? My personal experience with Dionaea is similar but even warmer! For the past few years my plants have overwintered in the following conditions, being housed in eigther a cool house, cool basement, or cold garage: Temperatures- Days 45-55f Nights 40-50f Light- VERY diffused daylight, often quite dim due to extended overcast conditions. Moisture- top of the pot's medium BARELY damp, moreso an inch down. Vegetative activity- pretty much nil for the period from December thru early March, most fall produced petioles remain evergreen but no trap development. Older leaves go black and are trimmed off. The only other thing I do as a precaution is lightly misting the foliage and medium with a full strength Benomyl 50% WP spray once a month. I check the pots on a routine basis for any further necrotic old leaves and soil moisture. One other thing. I have been keeping an eye on the temperature profiles of the Wilmington NC area during winter. Many days, even in the dead of winter, are above 40f, nights averaging 35-45f. Even the NJ Pine Barrens seems to have semi-moderate winter conditions although it is located much further north. Both areas seem to benefit greatly from the Gulf Stream, which plays a part in modifying the weather near the East Coast. VERY RARELY do you see Wilmington, NC getting down to sub freezing conditions, at least for any extended period. Wish I could say the same here in Cleveland, Ohio where its been in the teens for the past three weeks. High temps predicted early next week of 40f have many people jumping for joy around here. We can use it to melt the 24 inches of snow and ice now on the ground! Mark Pogany Cleveland, Ohio markp@en.com ################### From: "TomsRareplants" Date: Sat, 16 Jan 1999 06:26:15 -0000 Subject: Drosera falconeri Hi I will have seed of this plant soon any one looking for this plant E mail me .. Thanks Laura Fritts frittsmb@msn.com ################### From: JWi5770869@aol.com Date: Sat, 16 Jan 1999 07:41:51 EST Subject: warm weather temperate cp's Dear All, >I haven't come across anyone in central Florida who has been able to keep Darlingtonia alive outside of a refrigerated box! Some growers tell about starting the seeds in cool conditions, and then allowing an ice block to melt and drip onto/into the soil around the plant, but eventually they miss a scheduled ice renewal and the plants are gone. I have never tried it myself. - Carl I know only too well what temps central Florida gets up to but have you tried growing these plants in unglazed clay pots? The only other way that I could think of trying would be to bury some large gauge aquarium tubing in your pots / boxes, connect the tubing to a small, submersible, aquarium pump and have the pump in a large, cooled sump (there are various ways to cool the sump), with the return end of the pipe returning to the sump. The pumps themselves are fairly inexpensive and are inexpensive to run. The only trouble with this idea would that it would only be 'cost effective' with a largish collection of Darlingtonias .. This may seem like a sledgehammer to crack a walnut, but it seems like the only way (as long as your electricity supplies are dependable!!) of keeping these plants long term ( the plants would still have to be watered fairly continuously BTW,this idea only provides the method of cooling them) . Please note that this is only an IDEA ,I've NOT tried it out, but then again there's no need for such fancy mechanics at our end of the world, the weather manages just fine all by itself ( and so do the Darlingtonia) !!!!!! John Wilden Southport Lancs. UK ################### From: "TED HADLEY" Date: Sat, 16 Jan 1999 16:14:44 -0800 Subject: Introduction I am new to CPs and totally fascinated by them. I, probably like most here, was given a VFT at about age 13, and promptly killed it. (I was in Arizona, and I kept it in a south-facing window. That probably would have been OK if I watered it regularly). A fellow mineralogist piqued my interest again about 8 years ago when at a talk he gave on the mineralogy of the Low Divide mining district, he showed slides of "pitcher plants". Now this was in NW California, and we all know there are no CPs there! :-) I almost made a trip up there, near Crescent City, CA, just to see the plants, and to hell with the minerals! :-) This past Christmas, my wife found a book she thought I would like, The Savage Garden. Well now I am hooked. And I went back to that mineralogist, borrowed his slide, and guess what? -- Darlingtonia californicus. Now I plan to send some money to Peter D'Amato for his Patio Collection. I am going to give this a serious try. Time will tell how I do. But first, I have some questions, which I will submit in a future email. I have read the CP archives from Rick Walker's website, but they stop at 1996. Are the 1997 and 1998 CP archives available anywhere? -------- Ted A. Hadley, Senior Mineralogist hadleyt@usa.net Mineralogical Investigation Services Sunnyvale, CA 94087 USA ################### From: "Charles Redding" Date: Sat, 16 Jan 1999 16:55:47 PST Subject: Wanted N Khasiana Hi I would like to know if anyone out there has an N Khasiana with 4-5 inch pitchers for sale or trade. Please e-mail me Thanks Charles Preferably someone in the USA TO PETER D'amato: What species of Nepenthes on the shirt? thanks!! ################### From: Dionaea@aol.com Date: Sat, 16 Jan 1999 20:46:28 EST Subject: Ants and N. bicalcarata (In National Geographic) Hi all: Just wanted to make everyone aware of an article in February '99 issue of National Geographic Magazine about "Ants and Plants." The article describes relationships between ants and certain plants and N. bicalcarata is prominently featured (including a photo of an upper pitcher as well as photos of ants inhabiting tendrils. Just an FYI. Christoph ################### From: Chris Frazier Date: Sun, 17 Jan 1999 05:47:53 -0700 Subject: CP Listserve is huge! Dear CP'ers, FYI. I just noticed that the CP listserve has over a thousand members for the first time (1019 as of Jan 17,1999). That's roughly a 20% increase in 1998 alone. Chris ----------------------------------------------------------- Chris Frazier Dept. of Biology, UNM Albuquerque, NM, USA 87131 (505) 277-0683 Fax: (505) 277-3781 Homepage: http://redtail.unm.edu/ ################### From: CCElliott@aol.com Date: Sun, 17 Jan 1999 11:03:09 EST Subject: new address please note new e-mail address elliott@capecod.net ################### From: cp@astilla.demon.co.uk (Andrew Bate) Date: Sun, 17 Jan 1999 18:10:14 GMT Subject: Windows CP application - Update Hi, I posted here a few months ago saying that I was planning on creating a Windows application handle a collection of plants (CP or otherwise). The project is now starting to take shape after several false starts and lack of spare time and in about 4-6 weeks time I should have something available for people to preview. This will NOT be the finished application but should give people an insight into what I am trying to achieve here. With Jan's permission I have managed to import basic taxonomy details from the online CP Database into my application so there is a good starting point for CP growers - if you don't want the application for CP usage then just delete all the data and type your own in... :-) So far, I have done the screens to handle the collection, genus/species details, stock prices, stock list, contact list (names addresses etc) and also prototyped creaton of HTML 'for sale' tables from within the application. Next on the list is the ordering module and integrating the printed/web based for sale list. The reason for this post is that I will be looking for people to have a look at what I have done so far in order to get feedback on what people like/dislike about it. More information can be found at the following URL:- http://www.astilla.demon.co.uk/epms If anyone is interested in acting as a tester for the application and following its development progress then please let me know. At the time I posted the original message I also found out that Paul Temple has also done something similar. I have no idea how this compares to what he has done as I haven't seen his application (didn't want to in case I subconsciously copied ideas). I don't know if what I am doing is of interest but all I can say is have a look and let me know any feedback! Regards, Andrew -- Andrew Bate | Email: andrew@astilla.demon.co.uk Worcester, UK | Web: http://www.astilla.demon.co.uk | ICQ: 11894304 ################### From: "Stefan Ploszak" Date: Sun, 17 Jan 1999 14:30:15 PST Subject: Re: VFT Dormancy >One other thing. I have been keeping an eye on the temperature >profiles of the Wilmington NC area during winter. Many days, even in >the dead of winter, are above 40f, nights averaging 35-45f. VERY >RARELY do you see Wilmington, NC getting down to sub freezing >conditions, at least for any extended period. It's a good idea to see how mother nature treats these plants. There is another factor that should be considered though. In nature the VFTs are usually burried in wire grass. In fact the only way to see these plants in the wild is to locate the flower scapes and pull the grass away as you reach the soil. It's my guess that the grass greatly protects the plants from the freezing temps and winds. In cultivation I've had potted VFTs easily survive brief periods in the mid 20s. As well, they don't have any problem with continuous temps in the 30s, even with the upper layer of soil frozen. I can't explain why, but the VFTs love a cool dormancy; in the spring they return stronger than ever. Stefan ################### From: "Stefan Ploszak" Date: Sun, 17 Jan 1999 14:40:28 PST Subject: Re: warm weather temperate CPs >The only other way that I could think of trying would be to bury >some large gauge aquarium tubing in your pots / boxes, connect the >tubing to a small, submersible, aquarium pump and have the pump in a >large, cooled sump (there are various ways to cool the sump), with >the return end of the pipe returning to the sump. For me I have a hard time finding an effective method to cool the water into the 50s when the outside temps are in the 80s. Especially a cost effective method. In nature the plants are found bathing in very cool(50s) spring water. Under those conditions the plants thrive and grow prolifically. >Please note that this is only an IDEA ,I've NOT tried it out I feel it could work well, but again, how could you cool the water so much? Stefan ################### From: "Adao Pereira" Date: Sun, 17 Jan 1999 23:39:32 -0000 Subject: Nepenthes humidity question Hello, all! I've got a problem concerning one of my Nepenthes: when it was young, I planted it in my terrarium. What I didn't know at that time is that they grow very much (I was a newbie to CPs), and now it doesn't fit in there anymore (in width and height). To solve this problem, I thought about one solution: I'd open a hole in the terrarium's lid and let the plant continue growing outside it. But there's a big difference in humidity in and out... How would the plant react? The base of the plant (the first 50 cm) are still in a very humid environment, but the rest would grow in room atmosphere (it is still humid, though). Are there any ideas about this? Or I'll have to cut the plant? BTW, I germinated some Darlingtonia seeds in 30 C and the seedlings (kept at the same temperature) are doing apparently well (and they're growing much faster than others kept at 18 C). I heard that these plants hate heat. Should I decrease the temperature? Thanks for your advices, Miguel ################### From: Peter Cole Date: Sun, 17 Jan 1999 23:55:59 +0800 Subject: Re: Introduction Hi Ted, welcome to the mailing list. Yes, you'll find they're very addictive things indeed! :) > I am new to CPs and totally fascinated by them. I, probably like most here, > was given a VFT at about age 13, and promptly killed it. (I was in Arizona, > and I kept it in a south-facing window. That probably would have been OK if > I watered it regularly). I guess we all started similarly - I have to confess I killed my first 5 or 6 VFTs quite quickly, mainly by underwatering and incessant poking and prodding (but I was only 7!) > have some questions, which I will submit in a future email. I have read the > CP archives from Rick Walker's website, but they stop at 1996. Are the 1997 > and 1998 CP archives available anywhere? I haven't got a full collection from the end of '96 (I did have, but had a few bad computer crashes,) but there's the last 6 months worth or so on my webpage - hit the "links" button and choose "local links". http://www.flytrap.demon.co.uk/ also a few other CP resources there you might like and links to other ` sites. Hope this helps, Peter mailto:carnivor@flytrap.demon.co.uk : http:www.flytrap.demon.co.uk/cchome.htm Cambrian Carnivores,17,Wimmerfield Cr.,SWANSEA,SA2 7BU, UK : tel 01792 205214 Carnivorous Plants,Seeds & Tissue Culture Kits - mailorder,export & wholesale ################### From: Danny Hammons Date: Sun, 17 Jan 1999 22:04:05 -0600 Subject: New CP Shipments at Lowe's Hello all, Over the weekend, I happened to be in Lowe's here in Arlington, Tx, and noticed that there was a shelf full of newly arrived CPs. I thought that it was a bit strange (being the middle of January.) I picked up a couple of Pings. Also, I'd like to inform everyone that I'll have my web page back up soon (it's been down since about last July.) El Nino + the horribly hot, dry summer here in N. Texas caused last year to be a fairly bad growing year. During the heat/drought, I lost a few sarracenias.....oddly enough, they were mostly the Tx native S. alatas. I hope to document the growing cycle this year on the web. I've gotten my own domain and much more server space than in the past so I'll be able to leave more up at one time. I'll post a message with the address when I get it completed. BTW, Tom, I've got lots of pictures of the plants you sent to Charlie. I'll post them on the page when it's ready. Danny Hammons (danny@hammosoft.com) Arlington, Tx ################### From: panther@bluep.com Date: Mon, 18 Jan 1999 22:05:44 +1100 Subject: Unsubscribe _,'| _.-''``-...___..--'; /, \'. _..-' , ,--...--''' < \ .`--''' ` /| Regards `-,;' ; ; ; panther@bluep.com __...--'' __...--_..' .;.' (,__....----''' (,..--'' Dr Antony Van Eeten ################### From: Laurent Legendre Date: Mon, 18 Jan 1999 12:19:23 +0100 Subject: Life in pitcher fluids Hi to all, I'm just back from a three weeks trip to New Caledonia. I made plenty of nice observations and took plenty of pictures on CP's. As I'm preparing to format all of my notes for CPN, I was wondering on whether someone could help me with something. There was a white bug living in the pitcher fluid of N. vieillardii. Could anyone help me identify the name of such species from photographs? Thanks, laurent Legendre ################### From: "NEIL ARMSTRONG" Date: Mon, 18 Jan 1999 16:24:40 -0000 Subject: Introduction Hi all! I've been growing CP's for about 9 years, and have two greenhouses. I started much like everyone else, buying, then killing numerous VFT on a windowsill. Then I progressed to killing Nepenthes :( ! I'm much better at it now though :) Growing, not killing ;) I grow most stuff, VFT Sarras, Drosera and an ok Heliamphora Nutans in a tank, N. facing window. BTW I stopped feeding mine years ago and it's fine, don't believe everything you read. Cheers, Neil ################### From: L235@aol.com Date: Mon, 18 Jan 1999 11:49:56 EST Subject: Re: VFT Dormancy (VFTs in Wire Grass) I must be in a contrary mood or something these days .... Repeatedly disagreeing with people on the list . Stefan Ploszak writes: > In nature the VFTs are usually burried in wire grass. In fact the only way to see > these plants in the wild is to locate the flower scapes and pull the grass > away as you reach the soil. It's my guess that the grass greatly > protects the plants from the freezing temps and winds. I've seen VFTs on several occasions in the wild (Pender and Brunswick counties, NC) In neither locale were VFTs growing in wire grass. In fact, in the former site, they were growing, quite exposed, on relatively barren sandy ridges along the edges of often water-filled depressions. These plants were quite easy to see (and photograph) even without the aid of their flower scapes (although in many cases they were flowering). I'm sure they are probably quite common in Wire Grass, I've just never seen them as such, and would therefore disagree with the statement that the "only" way to see them is when they're in flower. Jay Lechtman (jay@carnivorousplants.org) Ashburn, VA, USA ################### From: Barry Meyers-Rice Date: Mon, 18 Jan 1999 10:27:13 -0800 (PST) Subject: ICPS payments > If you can mana