################### From: "Robert Hood" Date: Thu, 1 Jan 98 16:26:34 UT Subject: Re: Lighting I buy my cp lights at hardware stores.They usually have lights called growlights (they come with a mount and all). These are usually located in with all the other lights ( kitchen/ shop). I have also seen growlux lights at local garden stores. I have not used growlux yet ,but have heard they r good. Robert Hood ################### From: Andrew Marshall Date: Thu, 1 Jan 1998 11:10:56 -0800 (PST) Subject: Heliamphora wanted Hi folks, I am writing partly for a friend, not e-mail endowed, and also for myself. We are looking for Heliamphora going spare as either sale or trade. Any one with extra please contact me privatly with the details of what, how many, and how much/whats wanted etc.. and we can work something out. Thanks and happy new year Andrew ################### From: coro63@ihug.co.nz (Brian D Quinn) Date: Fri, 2 Jan 1998 09:19:35 +1300 (NZDT) Subject: N. lavicola seed Hi all, I have some fresh Nepenthes lavicola seed to offer to fellow CP enthusiasts. This was personally collected by myself on Gunung Telong, around 2000m altitude in the northern Sumatran province of Aceh. I am interested in setting up a trade....though there is one catch!! ;-) I am interested in swapping this seed for large volumes of fresh Sarracenia seed, preferably S. leucophylla and hybrids, S. flava and hybrids, and any other seeds that come from interesting plants e.g. Interesting flowers - petals or flower colour etc. Alternatively, I could easily be tempted with Drosera seed, particularily S. American and S. African species. If anyone is interested please email me privately to setup a trade. Brian D Quinn Waiheke Island, Auckland, New Zealand coro63@ihug.co.nz ################### From: Derek Glidden Date: Thu, 1 Jan 1998 22:55:17 -0500 (EST) Subject: Cultivars and seeds Jay Lechtman said: > BTW, I learned this the hard way, when I was young(er) and foolish (at > least moreso than I am today ... those who know me keep quiet ). I > was blithely growing D. x 'Marston Dragon' and D. x 'California Sunset' > which I had been given as seedlings (as in from seeds, that is sexually > propagated, which I've already said above is a no no.). On the advice of > others older and wiser than me, I reluctantly destroyed the plants. Errr, ummm, forgive me but I would seriously question the wisdom of those who made that recommendation unless it's flat out illegal to propagate cultivars by seed, even if you're not going to claim them as the original cultivar. (I suppose there could be a law in this nutso world, though.) This is only personal opinion, but, if I had any of the plants you mentioned, or 'Akai Ryu' or that mythical non-existent 'Nepenthes x One-in-a-million' N.aristolochioides x clipeata x bicalcarata x rajah hybrid that set seed, and those seed sprouted into plants that were aesthetically pleasing as the original plant, why shouldn't I continue to grow them, as long as I don't try to claim they're the original cultivar? (i.e. the 'Akai Ryu' becomes 'VFT all-red form'.) I can understand the wisdom of that suggestion if you were to try to resell those plants under the cultivar name, but if they're just going to sit in your personal collection, seems to me, who cares as long as they look nice? I may be way off-base; there may actually be some kind of non-cultivar-sexual-propagation law or something. If there is, someone please straighten me out before I break it and start growing some extra nice-looking plants for myself. :) -=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-= Derek Glidden http://www.illusionary.com Illusionary.com Home of the Pagan Resource Site Web development, database, graphics and general plumbing Linux, FreeBSD, Apache, MySQL, PostgreSQL, PHP (Say No to NT!) ################### From: CMcdon0923 Date: Thu, 1 Jan 1998 22:42:32 EST Subject: Pine Needles for Increasing Acidity? I believe I read that decomposing pine needles are a good natural way to increase acidity in soil. Since the old Christmas tree came down today, I was wondering if it might be a good idea to sprinkle some needles on top of my pots before the tree is picked up? ################### From: SCHLAUER@chemie.uni-wuerzburg.de Date: Fri, 2 Jan 1998 13:15:14 Subject: Re: Aristilochia deblis Dear TheEdge, > I am looking for any published research concerning insectivorous > activity in Aristilochia deblis. If nobody on the list has access to such a > source, No such source known to me. > a confirmation of Aristilochia deblis being an insectivorous plant > and/or its flowers being as such, No confirmation possible. _Aristolochia_ (many species known and studied) traps insects by the flowers. The insects are released after anthesis/pollination. They are *NEVER* digested although some creatures may not survive their imprisonment. > or confirmation of its not being insectivorous at any stage, This is hereby confirmed (see above). Kind regards and a HNY Jan ################### From: Joe Cumbee Date: Fri, 02 Jan 1998 08:28:57 -0500 Subject: Re: Pine Needles for Increasing Acidity? Hi, I use pine needles(pine straw as we call it in the South) in every mix that I make, including nepenthes, Sarracenias are grown in nothing but pine straw(needles) with about an inch of sand sprinkled on top. I have used it in for years in in-ground bogs and children wadding pools as my containers. The reason for using pine is that it is an abundant natural resourse that is raked up in my yard. It is safe to use so don't worry it want hurt plants. Joe Cumbee CMcdon0923 wrote: > I believe I read that decomposing pine needles are a good natural way > to increase acidity in soil. Since the old Christmas tree came down > today, I was wondering if it might be a good idea to sprinkle some > needles on top of my pots before the tree is picked up? ################### From: Ide Laurent Date: Thu, 01 Jan 1998 13:41:21 +0100 Subject: Aristolochia - gemmae trouble Hi TheEdge Never heard that an Aristolochia could be insectivorous. And I don't know an insectivorous flower. All the CPs are producing traps with their leaves, sometimes the flower stem is covered with tentacles or glue, but I don't think a flower ever trapped something. Dear list, I guess you're remembering the offer for free gemmae. Though the big success, I realize that some people wouldn't imagine I'd like to know if the gemmae arrived. It could be nice that everyone who received some from me sends me a message to confirm arrival. Since the messages I got are talking about dead-arrived gemmae, I think I wouldn't do that on long distances next year (although they were correctly packed) Laurent (Happy new year to all) ################### From: Oliver T Massey CFS Date: Fri, 2 Jan 1998 09:57:45 -0500 (EST) Subject: Re: N. lavicola seed > Hi all, > > I have some fresh Nepenthes lavicola seed to offer to fellow CP enthusiasts. > This was > personally collected by myself on Gunung Telong, around 2000m altitude in the > northern Sumatran province of Aceh. I am interested in setting up a > trade....though > there is one catch!! ;-) > > I am interested in swapping this seed for large volumes of fresh Sarracenia > seed, > preferably S. leucophylla and hybrids, S. flava and hybrids, and any other > seeds that > come from interesting plants e.g. Interesting flowers - petals or flower > colour etc. > If anyone is interested please email me privately to setup a trade. > > > Brian D Quinn > Waiheke Island, > Auckland, New Zealand > coro63@ihug.co.nz > > Brian: I would be interested in a trade for your Nep seed. I have a fair bit of fresh Sarr. seed (this fall) Particularly lots of S flava, (cutthroat and red vein) and some crosses, and S lueco. I do not require 1 seed for 1 seed swap, as I have a fair amount of the Sarr seed. I would like enough Nep seed to have a reasonable shot. If you are interested, send me your complete address. Tom Massey 16404 Norwood Drive Tampa, Florida 33624 USA ################### From: "Mellard, David" Date: Fri, 2 Jan 1998 09:54:00 -0500 Subject: Re: VFT SOS PDQ >1) Please don't do it! Named cultivars should not be sexually propagated. Now Jay , you don't really mean this. Of course they should or rather could be sexually propagated. They just need a new name as you pointed out. >BTW, I learned this the hard way, when I was young(er) and foolish (at least >moreso than I am today ... those who know me keep quiet ). We have all been younger and more foolish, so move over. (Sorry, this was just too good to pass up.) >I was blithely growing D. x 'Marston Dragon' and D. x 'California Sunset' which I >had been given as seedlings (as in from seeds, that is sexually propagated, >which I've already said above is a no no.). On the advice of others older and >wiser than me, I reluctantly destroyed the plants. You purposely destroyed cp's when some of us are struggling to grow them. I just killed a D. x Marston Dragon because I didn't notice that the media dried up. You could have kept them and started a dynasty. Let's see: D. x MD L235 and D. x CS AOL.com See how easy it is . My New Year's resolution is not to tease people. I failed. Of course, since you're an officer and hence a public figure, rules and promises don't apply David ################### From: JEFFREY WELCH Date: Fri, 02 Jan 1998 10:15:11 -0500 Subject: Re: VFT SOS PDQ Hi Folks, I can only partly agree with Jay about the selfing of cultivars. I do agree that any plants that result from self pollination of a cultivar are not that cultivar. Similarly selfed hybrids are no longer that hybrid. As to whether the crosses should be made, of course they should as long as the grower doesn't try to pass them off as the original cultivar/hybrid. Fifty seedlings of Akai Ryu x self are now fifty unique plants, *not* fifty Akai Ryu. Some may have characteristics that improve upon Akai Ryu, most probably will be inferior plants. So make the cross, keep good records, and be honest about the origin of the plants. Take care! Jeff ################### From: "Mellard, David" Date: Fri, 2 Jan 1998 10:41:00 -0500 Subject: New Year's gift In my recent posting offering almost free Sarr seed for $2. the $2 charge covers everything, regardless of the number of species you request. If we end up trading, there is no charge. Of course, there was one chap who very eloquently begged to send an extra $5 and I just couldn't say no. So this means, I'll get some Vietnamese food for lunch out of this. P.S. This is not a plea for more money, just an observation about the generosity of humans. I have been quite amused by so many of you starting out with saying, "if there's any seed left." It must be reverse pyschology because it just makes me more determined to make sure that everyone with a request will get seed. I will make every effort to send the seed off this weekend so you can start your stratification. Will let you by email if it truly happens. David ################### From: "Jim & Karla (c223@rollanet.org)" Date: Fri, 2 Jan 1998 09:53:08 -0500 Subject: Sexual Reproduction of cultivars Hi, Selfing of select, superior plants that are named cultivars is one = very good way of possibly creating another superior plant. The parental = name cannot be used on the seedlings derived from this method, but the = opportunity might exist to name one of them ourselves. Orchid growers = do it all the time. Cloning of select plants is a wonderful way to = share the wealth. Selfing or sibbing is an exciting way to improve on = what mother nature has given us. Its fun to see what develops.=20 Sincerely Jim Farrelly ################### From: "Mellard, David" Date: Fri, 2 Jan 1998 11:32:00 -0500 Subject: Stratification I thought I would let everyone know how I stratify Sarracenia seed in case someone is new to stratification. The basic idea is to incarcerate the seed in a cold, wet environment for a period. I place the seed in a small, sealable container, add a few drops of rainwater, add a couple of sprigs of live sphagnum moss, and then add enough rainwater so that it looks like there's a slight excess of moisture. All this is by the touch, feel, and sight method. I like live sphagnum because it makes me feel that it might keep down microbes, it absorbs lots of water, and it increases the surface area for contact with seed. I like rainwater because I feel that it has the right pH, at least in the beginning. I like extra moisture because it makes me feel like I'm providing enough moisture to get the right biochemical reactions going. I like small containers because if makes me feel like everything in the container is in contact with everything else. Last year, I stratified for about 6 months in the refrigerator and got excellent germination. Based on what I've read this year, though, I plan to stratify for 6 weeks -- another feeling. If you don't have live sphagnum, a paper towel might do. Are you getting nauseating with this feeling stuff. My point is, this is more art than science or rather it's art based on a small knowledge of science. I'm posting this to the list in hopes that other people might share how they stratify and then you can choose what you feel will work for you. David ################### From: "Mellard, David" Date: Fri, 2 Jan 1998 11:37:00 -0500 Subject: stratification revisisted One more point on stratification. I think it was one of our friends from Oz that pointed out a few months ago that if you want to store your Sarr seed for long keeping, you should store it dry in the refrigerator. David ################### From: "Mellard, David" Date: Fri, 2 Jan 1998 12:05:00 -0500 Subject: Re: Pine Needles for Increasing Acidity? >Sarracenias are grown in nothing but pine straw(needles) with about an inch of sand >sprinkled on top. I have used it in for years in in-ground bogs and children wadding >pools as my containers. Hi Joe, I'm going to try this in a new outdoor bog so I thought I would quiz you to make sure I understand this simple concept. I'll probably run the pine straw through a mulcher, add it to the lined bog, and top it off with acid sand. It's truly that simple? How much settling takes place? No other ingredients? This just amazes me. Do you see any advantages over the standard milled sphagnum/sand mix. David ################### From: anggrek@juno.com (Tsuh Yang Chen) Date: Fri, 02 Jan 1998 12:35:49 EST Subject: plant lists first of all, many thanks for all who answered my recent inquiry. second, to jakub, i had sent this message to your e-mail address but it did not go through. here it is again: to subscribe to the orchid list, send "SUBSCRIBE ORCHIDS" message to "mailserv@scuacc.scu.edu to subscribe to the bromeliad list, send "SUBSCRIBE BROM-L FIRSTNAME LASTNAME" message to: listserv@ftpt.br to subscribe to the cacti and succulent list, send "SUBSCRIBE CACTI_ETC FIRSTNAME LASTNAME" message to: listproc@opus.hpl.hp.com also, if you are looking to trade or buy orchids, check out these two sites: www.orchidmall.com www.pollinia.com hope this helps. happy year of the tiger to all. tsuh yang chen, new york city ################### From: "Mellard, David" Date: Fri, 2 Jan 1998 14:29:00 -0500 Subject: FW: Auto-reply... [Re: RE: Sarracenia seeds] Hi Aaron, When I replied to your request for seed, I received the automatic message below, so I thought I would post a message here. Do you want me to send your seeds to the college address on your other email or to another address? David ---------- To: dam7@cdc.gov Automatic reply to: "RE: Sarracenia seeds" I am on sabbatical leave from until June 31, 1998. I'll respond to your message as soon as I can. Thank you for being patient. Aaron Ellison ################### From: "Mellard, David" Date: Fri, 2 Jan 1998 15:23:00 -0500 Subject: personal thank you Bon dia Marcelo, I don't have your email address so I'll post my thank you's here for the seed you sent me last month (or so). Several of them I do not have so it was a pleasant surprise. Now if I just knew the secret to germinating Drosophyllum's and keeping them alive. Ate logo, David ################### From: "C. J. Mazur" Date: Fri, 2 Jan 1998 21:23:16 -0500 Subject: Re: Sexual Reproduction of cultivars Okay, time for me jump in. I'm not a specialist in genetics, however, if you self a plant, like S. flava for instance, don't the seedlings of that S. flava x self have the same genetic makeup of the original plant? If this is the case wouldn't any plant selfed reproduce an exact copy of itself? I was always under the impression that if you created a nice cross you could self it to maintain its identity. If this is not the case, a red vft x a second of the same clone = a genetically new plant? Can someone straighten me out? Best Regards, Carl J. Mazur Cherryhill Carnivorous Plants Ontario Canada http://www.vaxxine.com/ccphome >Hi, > > Selfing of select, superior plants that are named cultivars is one = >very good way of possibly creating another superior plant. The parental = >name cannot be used on the seedlings derived from this method, but the = >opportunity might exist to name one of them ourselves. Orchid growers = >do it all the time. Cloning of select plants is a wonderful way to = >share the wealth. Selfing or sibbing is an exciting way to improve on = >what mother nature has given us. Its fun to see what develops.=20 > > Sincerely > > Jim Farrelly > ################### From: Joe Cumbee Date: Fri, 02 Jan 1998 21:50:47 -0500 Subject: Re: Pine Needles for Increasing Acidity? Mellard, David wrote: > >Sarracenias are grown in nothing but pine straw(needles) with about an > inch of sand >sprinkled on top. I have used it for years in > in-ground bogs and children wadding >pools as my containers. > > Hi Joe, > > I'm going to try this in a new outdoor bog so I thought I would quiz you > to make sure I understand this simple concept. > > I'll probably run the pine straw through a mulcher, add it to the lined > bog, and top it off with acid sand. It's truly that simple? How much > settling takes place? No other ingredients? This just amazes me. Do > you see any advantages over the standard milled sphagnum/sand mix. > David David and other Interested CPers,I have never shredded the pine straw (needles), but it should be ok to do so. Mulching them might make them decompose faster (I don't know if this would be good or bad). I just soak the straw (whole) in water for about a week or two, or longer if you can wait. (If I am in a hurry, I take a potato rake and pull up straw that has fallen into our pond and settled to the bottom.) Once the needles are well soaked there is very little settling. The sand on top pretty well holds the needles down. Using pine needles makes weeding an easy, very easy and almost enjoyable task. The roots of the weeds just slide right out. I think that shredding the needles might make them more compact thus holding on to weed roots tighter. One advantage over milled sphagnum is the cost, with over 100 acres of pine trees I have an inexhaustible supply of straw, and there's more just across the road. I use enough peat moss as it is with other mixes. I apologize for my first letter, I had several misspellings that my son pointed out to me. I hope this helps. Joe ################### From: MARK POGANY Date: Fri, 2 Jan 1998 23:53:10 -0500 Subject: Re: Pine Mulch Over the past two years my local source for pure pine needle (straw) mulch has evaporated. I am now using a semi-coarse grade of pine bark mulch in my CP potting mixes. The results are just as good. The last pH reading I took on some drosera and dioneae soil containing this ingredient came in around 4.5 - 5.0 . The pine bark is often sold in large bags and can be quite easy to come by at a garden center when you can't find pine needles! My CP mixes (except Nepenthes) contain 10-20% of this product. Just stir it in with the silica sand and peat! By the way, I cover all my outdoor Sarracenias with an 8" mulch of pine bark to overwinter them in the frozen tundra of Northeast Ohio. Mark Pogany Cleveland, Ohio markp@crscms.com ################### From: SCHLAUER@chemie.uni-wuerzburg.de Date: Sat, 3 Jan 1998 12:21:19 Subject: Re: Sexual Reproduction of cultivars Dear Carl, > (...) if > you self a plant, like S. flava for instance, don't the seedlings of that S. > flava x self have the same genetic makeup of the original plant? The problem is the (usually; in order to prevent impertinent comments) statistical distribution of allelic chromosomes during meiosis, i.e. the paternal (pollen) and maternal (ovule) chromosomes that make up the (nuclear) genome of the plant are not divided as unchanged sets to the gametes but *any* chromosome of an allelic pair may be grouped with those of the other pairs to form a haploid set. This results in gametes that have a mixture of paternal and maternal chromosomes. In selfing the plants, the mixed sets of pollen and ovule are combined, and the resulting embryo may either become a +/- exact copy of the parent plant or several allelic pairs may be entirely paternal or entirely maternal (relative to the parent plant). In the extreme case it is thus also possible to reconstruct diploid clones of the maternal or paternal gametes (that formed the parent plant). Therefore, usually several alleles are lost by selfing (i.e. the maternal or paternal allele is eliminated because both alleles are from the same original parent: homozygous condition). So a genetic degeneration is frequently encountered among the offspring. Because repeated selfing eliminates almost all heterozygous alleles, this strategy is utilized in breeding +/- genetically pure lines with +/- uniform properties. This enables breeders to produce hybrids with predictable characteristics. Crossing over (the exchange of +/- homologous DNA *between* two allelic chromosomes) is a mechanism to further complicate the process of sexual reproduction (i.e. to increase the variability among the offspring). Moreover, extranuclear inheritance, mutations at all levels, transposition, and other factors permanently affect the genetical makeup of most living beings. Thus, the idea of identical clones, even if produced by vegetative division, is an essentially theoretical one. Multiplicate all the trouble mentioned above by the ploidy/2. > If this is > the case wouldn't any plant selfed reproduce an exact copy of itself? This is not the case (see above), so the result is not as stated. > I was > always under the impression that if you created a nice cross you could self > it to maintain its identity. It would be better to forget this impression ASAP. > If this is not the case, a red vft x a second > of the same clone = a genetically new plant? Yes. Kind regards Jan ################### From: "quintn" Date: Sat, 3 Jan 1998 10:10:17 -0500 Subject: a VFT in Akai Ryu clothing Maybe I should have just said VFT "unknown cultivar"... Not being a "seasoned veteren" of CP's, I'm a little (young and?)inexperienced with their sexual propagation. Fear not, I don't intend to flood the CP world with incorrectly-named VFTs, I'd just like to see if i can produce some seed and successfully grow a plant from it. If it is such a "crime" to grow CPs simply to appreciate their beauty, then 99% of those on the list should destroy their collections immediately! brian ################### From: Davil Dane Date: Sat, 3 Jan 1998 10:18:57 EST Subject: Sarracenia x 'Ladies in Waiting' The December 15th (1997) issue of American Nurseryman introduces (on page 77) a new cultivar of pitcher plant. It's a multispecies hybrid developed by Rob Gardner and Larry Mellichamp and is propagated by tissue culture. The source is given as Niche Gardens in Chapel Hill. My questions are: Is there any more information about this plant? Is there a mail order source? Is there a master list of Sarracenia cultivars somewhere? I've seen lists of Sarracenia color forms which are very helpful. Thanks for your help. David Lane Dover, NH ################### From: "Sundew Sundew" Date: Sat, 03 Jan 1998 13:06:04 PST Subject: Wanted: D.petiolaris complex / Seed update Hi list, hope everyone's having a happy new year! I would like to grow plants belonging to the drosera petiolaris complex - has anyone got any plants available? dilatato-petiolaris used to thrive for me. any tips on growing falconeri or others would be much appreciated. Finally, for everyone who requested seed from me, I hope to be able to send stuff out in 1-2 weeks, depending on my schedule. Happy growing! Matt ______________________________________________________ Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com ################### From: Ron Lane Date: Sat, 03 Jan 1998 17:49:38 -0500 Subject: Re: Sarracenia x 'Ladies in Waiting' At 07:34 AM 1/3/98 -0800, you wrote: > The December 15th (1997) issue of American Nurseryman introduces (on page 77) >a new cultivar of pitcher plant. It's a multispecies hybrid developed by Rob >Gardner and Larry Mellichamp and is propagated by tissue culture. The source >is given as Niche Gardens in Chapel Hill. My questions are: Is there any more >information about this plant? Is there a mail order source? Is there a master >list of Sarracenia cultivars somewhere? I've seen lists of Sarracenia color >forms which are very helpful. Thanks for your help. > >David Lane >Dover, NH > <> Niche Gardens is a native plants (not exclusively) nursery. I have not received their latest catalog to see if this cultivar is included for sale. They normally carry un-named Sarracenia hybrids in their catalog so they may have added this clone. They are known for selling incredibly high quality plants. Their phone number: 919-967-0078 Ron Lane RL7329@sprynet.com Central NJ, USA ################### From: "Justin Arthur" Date: Sat, 03 Jan 1998 15:28:42 PST Subject: Re: Sarracenia x 'Ladies in Waiting' > The December 15th (1997) issue of American Nurseryman introduces (on page 77) >a new cultivar of pitcher plant. It's a multispecies hybrid developed by Rob >Gardner and Larry Mellichamp and is propagated by tissue culture. The source >is given as Niche Gardens in Chapel Hill. My questions are: Is there any more >information about this plant? Is there a mail order source? Is there a master >list of Sarracenia cultivars somewhere? I've seen lists of Sarracenia color >forms which are very helpful. Thanks for your help. > >David Lane >Dover, NH > The source of this in formation, Niche Gardens in chapel hill, is the seller of the new cultivar of pitcher plant(Ladies in Waiting). They are a mail order organization and you can reach them through the following ways: Phone= (919)-967-0078 Fax= (919)-967-4026 WWW= The plant is a bit expensive ($20.00) but I have seen it in cultivation at Niche Gardens and think that it is well worth the price. Justin T. Arthur 308 Summerfield Crossing Road Chapel Hill, NC 27514 United States Of America ______________________________________________________ Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com ################### From: "Haakan Murevaern" Date: Sun, 4 Jan 1998 00:59:20 +0100 Subject: Me in pitcher Hello list! I am trapped. I was was not careful when I was feeding my extra big Texas size pitcher. See it on my page. I have also updated with pictures of P.primuliflora (flower) S.rubra D.dichrosepala You can now go directly to "My Plant List" and point on a plant name to see the image of only that plant. Happy surfing Haakan Murevaern See my Carnivorous plants at http://www.algonet.se/~murevarn ################### From: Joe Cumbee Date: Sat, 03 Jan 1998 19:57:36 -0500 Subject: Re: Sarracenia x 'Ladies in Waiting' I was fortunate enough to purchase a "Ladies in Waiting" at the ICPS Convention at the Atlanta Botanical Gardens this past May. It is a very nice plant, and it held up to the South Georgia heat very well. Just to say that you own a plant that was cultivated by Rob Gardner and Larry Mellichamp is worth much more than the $20.00, I wish now I had also gotten the "Dixie Lace" also. Joe Cumbee Justin Arthur wrote: > > The December 15th (1997) issue of American Nurseryman introduces (on > page 77) > >a new cultivar of pitcher plant. It's a multispecies hybrid developed > by Rob > >Gardner and Larry Mellichamp and is propagated by tissue culture. The > source > >is given as Niche Gardens in Chapel Hill. My questions are: Is there > any more > >information about this plant? Is there a mail order source? Is there a > master > >list of Sarracenia cultivars somewhere? I've seen lists of Sarracenia > color > >forms which are very helpful. Thanks for your help. > > > >David Lane > >Dover, NH > > > > The source of this in formation, Niche Gardens in chapel hill, is the > seller of the new cultivar of pitcher plant(Ladies in Waiting). They are > a mail order organization and you can reach them through the following > ways: > Phone= (919)-967-0078 > Fax= (919)-967-4026 > WWW= > > The plant is a bit expensive ($20.00) but I have seen it in cultivation > at Niche Gardens and think that it is well worth the price. > > Justin T. Arthur > > 308 Summerfield Crossing Road > Chapel Hill, NC 27514 > United States Of America > > ______________________________________________________ > Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com ################### From: ricell@juno.com Date: Sat, 3 Jan 1998 18:07:09 -0700 Subject: Re: Pine Needles for Increasing Acidity? CMcdon0923 writes: >I believe I read that decomposing pine needles are a good >natural way to increase acidity in soil. Since the old Christmas >tree came down today, I was wondering if it might be a good idea >to sprinkle some needles on top of my pots before the tree is >picked up? I can't comment on whether decomposing pine needles will increase acidity in soil, however, I would caution that Christmas trees are often treated with various things such as dyes, flame retardants and preservatives and I suspect these things could be potentially toxic to CP. Richard Ellis "ricell@juno.com" Boulder, CO ################### From: jaldr@onramp.net (James Aldridge) Date: Sun, 04 Jan 1998 03:13:49 GMT Subject: Nepenthes x Coccinea Someone recently gave me a large N. x Coccinea in a hanging basket. It = has sphagnum moss of the top, but I haven't looked deeper. My greenhouse is = still a month or so away from completion. Does anyone have "home" cultural = suggestions? Thanks. Jim James Aldridge - Fort Worth, Texas, USA jaldr@onramp.net or jaldr@fwcds.pvt.tenet.edu http://rampages.onramp.net/~jaldr ################### From: "Thomas W.Hanley" Date: Sat, 03 Jan 1998 21:26:42 -0600 Subject: Re: acid sand After all the discussions about using pine needles and acidic sand, I have one question. What is a good source of acidic sand if you must rely on commercial sources? Being in Dallas, Tx, the closest pine woods are about 100 miles or so. Besides you cant always take samples without permission Any ideas? Thanks Tom Hanley ################### From: "Edward Read" Date: Sat, 3 Jan 1998 19:47:53 -0800 Subject: small ping from Oaxaca Hello All, There is a pinguicula that grows in Oaxaca, is self fertile, and grows only as big as your thumb nail. If you know what this plant is named, please tell me. I'll be in Oaxaca again. If you know locations of pings in this state I would like to talk with you. Thank you again to all who have helped me. Happy New Year, Edward Read ay080@lafn.org http://www.geocities.com/rainforest/9848/ ################### From: KILSMOOTH Date: Sun, 4 Jan 1998 04:09:55 EST Subject: Making water acidic. Hello all! Hope everyones year is off to a good start....I've used these three methods of "acidizing" my cp water.First,I can definitely go along with Pine needles,because i've constantly seen S. minor in the wild ,growing in solid,soaked mats of the stuff and quite large also! Secondly,i've used it for years to prepare and maintain the acidity in my aquatic Utric. tanks....Sometimes, i even use it on my Sarrs right before they break dormancy to enhance their coloration a little{ especially rich colored forms such as S. flava"red" varieties}. I've never used it on my Drosera though, but some peat tea in the water trays works quite well and seems to keep "slime " levels down a bit.Yes,i am a "peat tea fan",and think it's great. But lately i've been using Spaghnum moss tea,derived from boiling live spaghnum instead of peat. Same great effect,only clearer and purer in my belief,but hey,it's all good stuff!! :) Remember, keep them Neps warm!!! :) Brian in Fl. ################### From: Steve Barnier Date: Sun, 4 Jan 1998 20:30:41 +1100 XSubject: Making water acidic. Hi There, I have just found messages page and I am interested in details for building a bog garden, and much more. Please direct me to locating this info. Regards, Steve Barnier.... ################### From: Dionaea Date: Sun, 4 Jan 1998 11:02:52 EST Subject: N. campanulata Lamb and Phillips and others have stated that this specie might be extingt, due to forrest fires in its former habitat. Does anyone know if this specie was ever brought into cultivation? Would this plant have been considered a lowland plant? Does anyone have any more information about this specie that is not included in the Lamb and Philipps book? Christoph ################### From: Borneo Exotics Date: Sun, 04 Jan 1998 22:39:50 +0500 Subject: Nepenthes challenge! Hello Everyone, The nepenthes website www.borneoexotics.com has been updated with new photos and other items. You can view details of the updates on the What's New page. A challenge to all you experienced Nepenthes fans. The species N. sp. #1 featured on the site is a highland species and was found in Mindanao, Philippines. Can anyone identify it? If so please let us know at borneo@lanka.net Also, even better, if anyone has it in cultivation we'd be delighted to know. It may not be the most spectacular species in the genus, but it's facing imminent extinction. Happy New Year! Robert Cantley ################### From: Bassnik Date: Sun, 4 Jan 1998 12:02:15 EST Subject: Greetings everybody Hello, my name is Sam. It is quite a pleasure to have found this interesting system you are all using. Not am I only new to this system, however, I am new to carnivorus plants as a whole. They are a big interest of mine and I am VERY anxious to get started. I have mentioned that I am a beginner so I am already asking questions. If anyone has got some time, please respond. My first questions(I hope this is not too embarassing) is where is the best place for me to find seeds for a good plant for starters. I see advertisements for getting them through the mail but is that a good and safe idea? Since I am already bothering everyone with questions(and illustrating my ignorance of CP) i might as well continue. For a report of mine if any one can give me a website of something of detailed information on the soil and light conditions needed for a health venus fly trap please help me out. I would just like to thank anyone who got this far in my message and everyone as a whole for including me in the mailing system. Thank You Sam ################### From: "Justin Arthur" Date: Sun, 04 Jan 1998 13:32:59 PST Subject: Re: Greetings everybody >Since I am already bothering everyone with questions(and illustrating my >ignorance of CP) i might as well continue. For a report of mine if any one >can give me a website of something of detailed information on the soil and >light conditions needed for a health venus fly trap please help me out. > >I would just like to thank anyone who got this far in my message and everyone >as a whole for including me in the mailing system. Thank You > >Sam > Sam, you should check out the growing a Venus Flytrap section of the Carnivorous Plant FAQ Justin T. Arthur 308 Summerfield Crossing Road Chapel Hill, NC 27514 United States Of America ______________________________________________________ Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com ################### From: zzpSsX72C@worktow1est.com Date: 01 Jan 98 11:57:47 PM Subject: Give Your Child "One of the Best Children's Videos"" The holidays are upon us. If you're like a lot of people, you struggle to find gifts for your children that will entertain and amuse them at the same time. Well, here's a gift that will delight your child - A Is For Airplane! "A Is For Airplane" is the award-winning educational video that shows kids all the fun and teamwork involved in running an airline. "A Is For Airplane" gets viewers behind the scenes at the airport! Kids get to see: * The ticket counter! * Inside the baggage system! * On the ramp with the baggage loaders and fuelers! * In the catering kitchens! * Inside the control tower! * In the hangar with the mechanics! * At the boarding gate! * And even in the COCKPIT of a real Boeing 757! Parenting Magazine calls "A Is For Airplane" "One of the Best Videos of 1996!" It's also Approved by the Parent's Choice Foundation! Thousands of copies of "A Is For Airplane" have been sold for $14.95, but as an Internet Special this holiday season you can get "A Is For Airplane" for only $11.95 (plus shipping and handling.) ORDER TODAY FOR GUARANTEED HOLIDAY DELIVERY! You can order "A Is For Airplane" by calling our toll-free number - 800-250-4210. If you'd like more information, visit our Website at www.ppmm.com/jfp/jfp1297.htm or CLICK HERE! Thank you for your time... Johnson Family Productions Madison, WI ################### From: Gill Robinson Date: Sun, 4 Jan 1998 22:16:59 GMT Subject: Cultivation I have just joined this mailing list, and am interested in finding out the most suitable species for cultivating in the UK. ################### From: Alexander and Annick Salomon Date: Sun, 04 Jan 1998 18:57:23 -0500 Subject: Re: Sexual Reproduction of Cultivars Carl Mazur Wrote: >Okay, time for me jump in. I'm not a specialist in genetics, however, if >you self a plant, like S. flava for instance, don't the seedlings of that S. >flava x self have the same genetic makeup of the original plant? If this is >the case wouldn't any plant selfed reproduce an exact copy of itself? I was >always under the impression that if you created a nice cross you could self >it to maintain its identity. If this is not the case, a red vft x a second >of the same clone = a genetically new plant? Can someone straighten me out? When discussing genetics one refers to the phenotype and the genotype. The first is the expression of a certain pair of genes; the second is the actual pair. Since we have dominant and recessive genes, the expression of a dominant gene does not tell us which pair of genes (two dominants or dominant/recessive) an offspring contains. I do not know whether the red gene is dominant or recessive(probably recessive)but lets say it is dominant and call it R. Lets say green is recessive and call it little r. If we cross a red vft by itself and it is actually a heterozygote Rr we get the following offspring RR 25% red rr 25% green Rr 50% red and this is only for one trait. There are many chromosomes with numerous traits and infinite combinations are still possible by selfing a plant. Even if you cross a homozygous recessive by itself, you are only ensuring the expression of one particular gene. The ONLY way to get an exact genetically identical plant of a cultivar is by asexual reproduction i.e. cuttings, or tissue culture. Therefore a selfing of Aku ryu would be expressed as D.musc. "Aku Ryu"x self. No sexuall produced offspring can be called by the cultivar name. -Alexander E. Salomon, M.D. ################### From: Chris Marsden Date: Sun, 4 Jan 1998 19:01:41 -0500 Subject: Re: Greetings everybody Sam, > I have mentioned that I am a beginner so I am already asking questions.= = If > anyone has got some time, please respond. My first questions(I hope th= is is > not too embarassing) Not embarrasing at all. We were _all_ beginners once. > is where is the best place for me to find seeds for a > good plant for starters. I see advertisements for getting them through= the > mail but is that a good and safe idea? Where to buy plants depends on your area... On the list there are people from over 20 countries, so you need to tell everybody where you live (Whi= ch country and which state/county). If you're in the US some people on the list may be able to supply plants. Getting them through the mail (OK.... so you're in the USA) is about the only way to do it unless you have a good nursery near you. As for safenes= s, I presume you mean for the plants. Sending plants between the US and othe= r countries is illegal without all the paperwork, but within the US to some= extent it is OK and providing you order from a good nursery (others on th= e list can help you with that) the plants should be alright. > Since I am already bothering everyone with questions(and illustrating m= y > ignorance of CP) i might as well continue. For a report of mine if any= one > can give me a website of something of detailed information on the soil and > light conditions needed for a health venus fly trap please help me out.= Try the listserver CP web page... I can't remember the address offhand, b= ut it is in the welcome file you were sent when you joined the list. Kindest Regards, Toby -------------------- Toby Marsden -------------------------------------------------------------------------= -- ------- Orleton Manor, Orleton, LUDLOW, Salop, SY8 4HR, England -------------------------------------------------------------------------= -- ------- = ################### From: mark.fisher@tpwd.state.tx.us Date: Sun, 04 Jan 98 18:53:16 cst Subject: Never say die Last summer, my D. capensis put out increasingly smaller and fewer leaves until eventually, there was nothing left above the soil line. I assume this was a response to the summer heat here in central Texas. I feared it had died, but I kept watering it anyway. Today, I noticed a new D. capensis sprouting where the old one had been. I know this has been discussed several times before on this list, but I want to reinforce--never give up on a "dead" cp, as it may not be! Regards, Mark ################### From: bergrd@valunet.com (Richard T. Berg) Date: Mon, 05 Jan 1998 04:02:14 GMT Subject: Greetings CP People! Greetings! I have just joined on to the mailing list and wanted to poke in and say 'Howdy' before I get to be a REAL pain! =3D) Actually I'm just starting a new adventure with CP's. I'm an avid gardener either indoor or outdoor and range in many different aspects of gardening including: Bonsai, Tropicals, Orchids, and now CP's! I recently picked up what I thought were 2 VFT's from a respectable = local nursery and came home searching for tid-bit's on the net concerning this wonderful family of plants... Needless to say I knew basically nothing about them other than a general gardening background would have clued me = in on, but was amazed to see such a wealth of information once again for a = new hobby I've been dying to invest time in for awhile now...=20 Kudos to all those with the descriptive web pages which include: The Carnivorous Plant FAQ page (EXCELLENT!) Cook's Carnivores Neal's Carnivorous Plants etc... etc... etc... The list would be huge if I were to mention them all and I've now in = just 2 days have brought my CP bookmarks to over 25+! Well, it's getting late and I had just finished up my NEW terrarium = with now 6 Dionaea's (Multiple Rhizomes From One Plant) enjoying their new = home in a 5 1/2 gallon aquarium with long fibre Sphagnum and some nice tepid water... I hope everything goes fine as this is my first attempt at this family of plants and waiting to enjoy the information contained herein = the listserv...=20 Thanks again to all who have provided such a service of information and= I hope to someday add to that list! Good Eve! ... Richard Berg =BF?=BF?=BF?=BF?=BF?=BF?=BF?=BF?=BF?=BF?=BF?=BF?=BF?=BF?=BF?=BF?=BF?=BF?=BF= ?=BF?=BF?=BF?=BF?=BF?=BF?=BF?=BF Richard Berg "Two things are infinite: the universe and human=20 stupidity; and I'm not sure about the the universe" -- Albert Einstein =BF?=BF?=BF?=BF?=BF?=BF?=BF?=BF?=BF?=BF?=BF?=BF?=BF?=BF?=BF?=BF?=BF?=BF?=BF= ?=BF?=BF?=BF?=BF?=BF?=BF?=BF?=BF =20 ################### From: Mike V Date: Sun, 04 Jan 1998 21:23:57 +0000 Subject: too much light for Helis? Is there such a thing as too much light for Helis? I have mine about six inches under six fluorescent bulbs, three of which are very powerful. More specifically, I was wondering if too much light might inhibit their development, as only one out of eight juvenile plants I have has produced adult pitchers. All of the varieties that I grow are doing well, but seem to get much redder than photos I have seen of the same plants, and new plants tend to burn rather badly before adapting. I know that they are otherwise happy, since they have all grown very well, divided, and even flowered, but I would really like to know if reducing their light would help the young ones. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. -Jonathan ################### From: MARK POGANY Date: Mon, 5 Jan 1998 00:59:04 -0500 Subject: Spam rebuttal Junk email in CP digest 1317: The holidays are upon us. If you're like a lot of people, you struggle to find gifts for your children that will entertain and amuse them at the same time. Well, here's a gift that will delight your child - A Is For Airplane! A also stands for "absorption". Here's hoping all the spammers in 1998 get fed to a REALLY large N. rajah. Both the plant and all of us on the list will be better off! Absorbing a good cup o' coffee, Mark Pogany Cleveland, Ohio ################### From: MARK POGANY Date: Mon, 5 Jan 1998 01:18:01 -0500 Subject: N. coccinea cultivation In CP digest 1317 James Aldridge wrote: Someone recently gave me a large N. x Coccinea in a hanging basket. It = has sphagnum moss of the top, but I haven't looked deeper. My greenhouse is = still a month or so away from completion. Does anyone have "home" cultural = suggestions? Thanks. Jim N. coccinea is an old Victorian hybrid popular in glasshouses around the turn of the century. Its rafflesiana x ampullaria crossed with mirabilis. This plant is from lowland parentage and enjoys higher temps. I keep mine inside a 50 gallon tank under twin tube flourescents with a 14 hour photoperiod. Make sure your potting mixture is open and acidic. Growing temperatures within a range of 65-85f work best for this plant. Much success, Mark Pogany Cleveland, Ohio markp@crscms.com ################### From: dmjoel@netvision.net.il (Daniel M. Joel) Date: Mon, 5 Jan 1998 08:43:54 +0200 (IST) Subject: gemmae Hi Laurent Just to let you know that during the last few days many of the gemmae that you sent me are forming their tiny first leaves. They look great, and this is a wonderful opportunity to thank you again for the gemmae. BTW, they were on their way from Belgium to Israel for a couple of weeks, due to a long general strike in Israel that blocked all mail, but they survived thanks to the excellent packing method. Happy 1998! Danny ________________________________________________________ Dr. Daniel M. Joel Carnivorous Plant Society of Israel Newe-Ya'ar Research Center P.O. Box 1021 RAMAT-YISHAY 30095, Israel. ________________________________________________________ Email: dmjoel@netvision.net.il fax. +972 4 983 6936 tel. +972 4 953 9529 ________________________________________________________ ################### From: "Andreas Wistuba" Date: Mon, 5 Jan 1998 07:39:45 +0000 Subject: Nepenthes Dear CPers, I just want to let you know that the homepage of THE NEPENTHES NURSERY is now updated with the 1998-pricelist and contains two very interesting special offers for Nepenthes rajah and Nepenthes lowii. You can find the page at http://www.wistuba.com Bye, Andreas THE NEPENTHES NURSERY http://www.wistuba.com Mudauer Ring 227; 68259 Mannheim; Germany Fax: +49 621 7152028 nepenthes@wistuba.com ################### From: "Gilles LARDY" Date: Mon, 5 Jan 1998 16:37:39 +0800 Subject: N. clipeata question Hi everybody, I have put on my heater last week, and notice that my clipeata is growing faster (around 27 deg C). I thought this was a highland species, but recently R. Cantley put it in the lowland section of his excellent website. Any comment and experience appreciated... ################### From: Derek Glidden Date: Mon, 5 Jan 1998 03:13:16 -0500 (EST) Subject: New and Improved! With TWICE the Vitamin E and THREE Times the Super-Cleaning Action as before! NOW, with DOUBLE filling and extra sprinkles on top! PLUS an exclusive set of steak knives and a custom luggage set! Ok, not really, but it is new and improved. I have been re-scanning the pictures I have on my website and scanning in tons more that I didn't have up before. The "Great California Darlingtonia Expedition" area now has about three times the content as it had before. I've also been to a bog in Orlando with my camera and will be posting pictures from that sometime this week and also some film I got back of my own plants. So, go to http://www.illusionary.com/~dglidden/cp/ and take a look if you like. As before, comments and suggestions are greatly appreciated. Semi-off-topic: Why this sudden urge to update my website? I just bought the HP PhotoSmart photo scanner. It's a WAY cool scanner that supports direct scanning of 35mm negatives. If you like to scan your photos, CP or otherwise, take a serious look at this scanner. For anyone interested, I've put up some more details of my personal experience so far at: http://www.illusionary.com/~dglidden/scanner.html -=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-= Derek Glidden http://www.illusionary.com Illusionary.com Home of the Pagan Resource Site Web development, database, graphics and general plumbing Linux, FreeBSD, Apache, MySQL, PostgreSQL, PHP (Say No to NT!) ################### From: M & M Date: Mon, 5 Jan 1998 23:00:16 +10 Subject: Book & Aquatic Ultirc. Hi, I have some aquatic Utricularia Australis and was wondering whether anyone had ever put som shrimp brine (sea monkeys) into the aquarium as a food substitute for the plants, and although I realise they probably don't need substitute food , whether anyone knows how they would respond to this. I haven't had much luck with the plant to date (for the last month it has been dying from the end back to the front. Although the front has been growing the dying end has almost met the growing front. From reading other recent posts I might try some pine needles in the water, none of the books seem to mention water PH, but as some have had success with this I though I might give it a go. Any other suggesstions? Also, I am looking for the Nephenthes of Borneo Book in Australia, would anyone know of any retailers here who might stock it? I have found it in the states but thought it would probably be faster to get it from somewhere here ofr direct from the publisher (I have also seen posts on doing c/c transactions with the publisher, but couldn't find and direct fax no. e-mail etc.... any help appreciated .) Thanks & regards. Mark - OZ. ################### From: "Mellard, David" Date: Mon, 5 Jan 1998 08:38:00 -0500 Subject: Re: Sexual Reproduction of cultivars Hi Carl, >Okay, time for me to jump in. Oh, boy, this ought to be fun..... >...... like S. flava for instance, don't the seedlings of that S. >flava x self have the same genetic makeup of the original plant? If this is >the case wouldn't any plant selfed reproduce an exact copy of itself? I was >always under the impression that if you created a nice cross you could self >it to maintain its identity. If this is not the case, a red vft x a second >of the same clone = a genetically new plant? Can someone straighten me out? This should be interesting. I'll be digging deep into the past to all those microbiology and genetic courses and will probably give you more details than you care to know. Most people are familiar with the idea of X chromosomes and Y chromosomes that determine sex in mammals, with XX being females and XY being males. ((FYI, it's the opposite in birds; XX are males and XY are females if you're a bird.)) Normal cells in the body are diploid, having two sets of each chromosome while the sex cells (gametes) have undergone a reductive division so that they have only 1 set of each chromosome. For instance, if diploid cells have 46 chromosomes, then haploid cells will have only 23 chromosomes. When gametes (in mammals its the sperm and the egg) get together, each with 23 chromosomes, the resulting diploid fertilized egg is now back to the orgininal 46. The same thing happens in plants (I hope). But nature has added a fail safe system to increase diversity. Think of an X chromosome as a ladder that has been twisted at both ends. This is the double helix you've heard about. The X chromosome, though, is actually two twisted ladders that are joined together for a short space (technically called the centromere.) Now go back to that one twisted ladder and lets look at the genetics that there. The ladder is actually several miles long and each rung on the ladder is a base pair (thymine, cytidine, adenine, and guanine -- I'm really digging deep now.) It takes hundred or thousands of rungs (base pairs) to make up a genetic trait. A single sex chromosome can have hundred or thousands of genetic traits encoded along the length of the ladder. Now the other ladder (the other sex chromosome) is in one sense the same as the first ladder. By this I mean that along the length of the ladder it will encode for the same set of genetic traits at the same locations along the ladder. Now here is where genetic diversity comes in. I'll use birds as an example because the genetics are simple and familiar for me. We have two chromosomes and the trait we're looking at is feather color. A normal bird will have two chromosome and the same two genes that encode for feather color (normal) will lead to gray feathers. Another bird will have the color cinnamon for its feathers. For this to happen, each of the two chromosomes now has a mutation in each chromosome that causes the cinnamon color to occur. But we can also have another bird that is gray but is split for cinnamon. The two chromosome are now slightly different. One chromosome has the gene for the normal trait and the other chromosome has the gene for the cinnamon color. The normal gene is capable of producing the biochemical reactions that allow for normal gray coloration. The normal gene is dominant and the cinnamon gene is recessive. How did this happen. It happened when the diploid sex cells divided and separated those two chromosome, one going to 1 gamete, the other going to the other gamete. In the case of the normal cockatiel split to cinnamon, one gamete had the gene normal the normal gray trait and the other gamete that it combined with contained the gene for the cinnamon trait. So what does this have to do with whether or not a selfing can produce the same plant. A chromosome has hundred of traits on it and its companion chromosome has the same or slightly different set of the "same traits." When the two companion chromosomes along with other chromosomes in the diploid cell separate into gamete cells, it's like shuffling two decks of cards and dividing them half. Each time you do it, you get a different set of cards. Plants have hundreds or even millions of diploid cells that have separated to form haploid gametes (pollen and ovary -- right terms here?) and when the pollen and ovary combine to form seeds, the genetic diversity can be immense, even when it's a selfing because there's two sets of the same chromosome to begin with. What's likely to happen when you self a plant is that you will get a lot of plants that are phenotypically like the parent plant and a smaller portion of plants that are phenotypically different. We won't talk about genotypic diversity. Plants can be phenotypically similar but genotically different, again because of all the shuffling that goes on in traits (for instance, biochemical reactions, enzyme production) that we can't see by looking at the plant. If you got lost in the above (and sometimes I wonder if I got lost), think of it as each plant has two genes for every trait. Those genes can be the same or the genes can be slightly different. When sex cells are formed, the genes separate into pollen and ovary; when the pollen and ovary unite,the resulting two traits may end up in different seeds and the plant from that seed may be similar or different from the parent plant. We won't get into the idea that several genes may be require for a single trait. That would be like shuffling 5 decks of cards together and then dividing them into several piles. An example for several genes is probably color variation in plants but I'll let a botanist confirm that notion. Hope this was clear, David Best Regards, Carl J. Mazur Cherryhill Carnivorous Plants Ontario Canada http://www.vaxxine.com/ccphome >Hi, > > Selfing of select, superior plants that are named cultivars is one = >very good way of possibly creating another superior plant. The parental = >name cannot be used on the seedlings derived from this method, but the = >opportunity might exist to name one of them ourselves. Orchid growers = >do it all the time. Cloning of select plants is a wonderful way to = >share the wealth. Selfing or sibbing is an exciting way to improve on = >what mother nature has given us. Its fun to see what develops.=20 > > Sincerely > > Jim Farrelly > ################### From: "Jens Rotthauwe" Date: Mon, 5 Jan 1998 15:43:10 +0100 Subject: A is for ... >You can order "A Is For Airplane" by calling our toll-free number - >800-250-4210. And I always thought "A" was for Aldrovanda ... 8-) Kind regards Jens ################### From: Leigh.Perkins@sset.com Date: Mon, 5 Jan 1998 15:06:57 -0800 Subject: British CPS Journal To other British CPS members Sorry to post this here, but can anyone else tell me if they have received their December CPS letter and the 1997 Journal as yet, or am I just being very impatient. Please mail me direct to save the bandwidth. Happy growing for '98! Leigh ################### From: Randall Palmer Date: Mon, 5 Jan 1998 13:11:33 -0500 (EST) Subject: Re: Acidit sand Acidit sand, Play Ground sand. Venus doesn't like sand. Go easy with your acid additions at first until you're happy with your results. Most Utrics like at least partial sand. With most Pitcher Plants, liking mostly Canadian peat, (anybody out there able to grow S. Minor, I don't know the procedure),high or low PH. Randy Palmer sfdzeqe0@scfn.thpl.lib.fl.us ################### From: Craig S Gardner Date: Mon, 05 Jan 1998 10:26:22 -0800 Subject: FCC internet charges I thought the following would be of interest to any one in the USA. >Subject: Internet, FCC > >I am writing you this to inform you of a very important matter currently >under review by the FCC. Your local telephone company has filed a >proposal with the FCC to impose per minute charges for your internet >service. They contend that your usage has or will hinder the operation >of the telephone network. >It is my belief that internet usage will diminish if users were required >to pay additional per minute charges. The FCC has created an email box >for your comments, responses must be received by February 13, 1998. >Send your comments to isp@fcc.gov and tell them what you think. >Every phone company is in on this one, and they are trying to sneak it >in just under the wire for litiagation. Let everyone you know here about this >one. Get the e-mail address to everyone you can think of. > > > >Jack C. Thompson >Thompson Conservation Lab >7549 N. Fenwick >Portland, Oregon 97217 > >503/735-3942 (voice/fax) > >www.teleport.com/~tcl -- Happy Growing Craig S. Gardner 173 Perry St. Ukiah, Ca. 95482 USA (707)462-5331 (707)468-1175 ################### From: "Michael.Chamberland" <23274MJC@MSU.EDU> Date: Mon, 05 Jan 98 13:39 EST Subject: Re: Sexual Reproduction of Cultivars > From: Alexander and Annick Salomon > > ensuring the expression of one particular gene. The ONLY way to get an > exact genetically identical plant of a cultivar is by asexual > reproduction i.e. cuttings, or tissue culture. Therefore a selfing of > Aku ryu would be expressed as D.musc. "Aku Ryu"x self. No sexuall > produced offspring can be called by the cultivar name. > > -Alexander E. Salomon, M.D. I think it will depend on the kind of cultivar you are dealing with. The International Code of Nomenclature for Cultivated plants (1995) states in article 2.2: A cultivar is a taxon that has been selected for a particular attribute or combination of attributes, and that is clearly distinct, uniform and stable in its characteristics and that, when propagated by appropriate means, retains those characteristics. And in article 2.12: Assemblages of individuals grown from seed derived from uncontrolled pollination may be given cultivar names when they meet the criteria laid down in Art. 2.2 and when they can be consistently distinguished by one or more characters, even though such individuals may not necessarily be genetically uniform. Michael Chamberland ################### From: "Mellard, David" Date: Mon, 5 Jan 1998 13:49:00 -0500 Subject: Re: Acidit sand Hi Randy, S. minor grows just like the other cp's, in an acid environment so a 1:1 mix of acid sand and milled sphagnum peat moss will do fine. David ---------- To: Multiple recipients of list Acidit sand, Play Ground sand. Venus doesn't like sand. Go easy with your acid additions at first until you're happy with your results. Most Utrics like at least partial sand. With most Pitcher Plants, liking mostly Canadian peat, (anybody out there able to grow S. Minor, I don't know the procedure),high or low PH. Randy Palmer sfdzeqe0@scfn.thpl.lib.fl.us ################### From: Perry Malouf Date: Mon, 5 Jan 1998 15:01:38 -0500 (EST) Subject: phytotoxic styrofoam Hello everyone, I'd like to relate an interesting observation I made recently, which could be very important for others in this forum. It concerns the phytotoxicity of colored styrofoam peanuts, of the sort often used as cushioning material in packaging. In summary, I believe these colored pieces of styrofoam were responsible for setting back several of my Nepenthes. Other growers should be careful. Here are the observations. I repotted several small plants about a year ago. I always put a shallow layer of styrofoam peanuts in the bottom of my pots, followed by a clump of potting media (sphagnum/perlite). Then I put the plant on top of the media, spreading out the roots (old potting media is removed as much as possible). Finally I drop in more media on top of the roots and lightly tap the pot down on a table top a few times to settle the media around the roots. Though the plants grew nicely after a month of adjustment, I recently noticed that some of the plants were dying back. The lower leaves would turn yellow and then dry up, followed by the upper leaves. (These plants were about 7" in diameter and only 4" tall). The change was fairly sudden, occurring over a period of 2 weeks. It was strange, especially after such a healthy growth spurt. This past weekend I repotted some of these plants. Invariably I noticed that the unhealthy ones had roots growing _through_ a _colored_ styrofoam peanut. Then I remembered one line in a posting by Al Bickell (when he recited his recipe for Nepenthes potting media). He described how he puts styrofoam peanuts in the bottom of his pots, and then added in parentheses "white ones; colored ones are phytototoxic". [I'm paraphrasing here.] Suddenly it all made sense. When the plants were enjoying a growth spurt of green tissue, they were also growing more roots. The roots finally came in contact with some colored styrofoam and grew through it. At this point the roots began absorbing phytotoxic material and the plants started to decline in health. Since the rest of my plants are doing well, since I've not seen any sign of other pathogens on the sick plants, and since all the plants experience the same growing conditions, I surmise the colored styrofoam is the problem. (The healthy plants I repotted hadn't yet grown roots into the colored peanuts.) I'm going to repot all my plants over the next few weeks, and use white styrofoam from now on. By the way, I'm trying a different spin on my old recipe for potting media. Instead of soaking the sphagnum in water, I'm soaking it in a 1:1 dilution of peat tea. Let's see what happens. Regards, Perry Malouf ################### From: "Stefan Ploszak" Date: Mon, 05 Jan 1998 12:55:48 PST Subject: Re: S.X"Ladies-in-Waiting" Hi list, Joe Cumbee wrote: >I was fortunate enough to purchase a "Ladies in Waiting" at the ICPS Convention >at the Atlanta Botanical Gardens this past May. It is a very nice plant, and it >held up to the South Georgia heat very well. Just to say that you own a plant >that was cultivated by Rob Gardner and Larry Mellichamp is worth much more >than the $20.00, I wish now I had also gotten the "Dixie Lace" also. I've seen and I grow the Mellichamp plants that you mention. Joe, you are very correct in saying that a Mellichamp plant is worth more than $20. No other hybrids even compare in beauty and vigor(except possibly, SX'JudithHindle.'). Dr. Mellichamp has been producing these plants for years and he is redefining my expectations of a Sarracenia hybrid. SX"Ladies..." grows about 8-12" tall and has an obvious leuco influence. I'd have to double check, but I think it is a SXleuco X(rubraxpsitt) hybrid. SX"Dixie Lace" is in my opinion even prettier than SX"Ladies..." Each pitcher has a green/orange color with a dense network of red veins. I'm not very good at describing them, but let me say that they are by far the prettiest Sarrs I've ever seen. I've even considered growing only a few "regular" Sarrs and the rest beauties like these. I've spoken to Dr. Mellichamp about his hybrids and he selects plants that are beautiful, vigorous, colorfull, about 12" in height when mature, and easy to grow. Right now he has 3 hybrids in tc, but will have more to follow(IMHO, what follows is even better). The 3 hybrids are SX"Ladies-in-Waiting," SX"Dixie Lace," and SX"Case's Resolve." I understand that there is some trouble with SX"Case's Resolve," so I don't know if it will be available. The only current source that I know of for these plants is David Crump in Charlotte, NC and he has plenty of each. If his computer is up-and-running, maybe he could comment further. Those of you that have seen the Sarrs at the NC Botanical Gardens in Chapel Hill or the McMullen Conservatory at UNCC know what I am talking about. Possibly, the best Sarr displays in the nation. Stefan Ploszak Gastonia,NC ______________________________________________________ Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com ################### From: L235 Date: Mon, 5 Jan 1998 16:13:22 EST Subject: Re: Sexual propagation of cultivars Ok, ok ... consider me suitably chastened. In actuality, I think it's fine to play around with genetics ... to a point. My "official" exhortation was however in response to the huge danger in passing off (innocently or otherwise) named cultivars when they're not, due to sexual as opposed to asexual propagation. If you're not quite sure what you're doing, and actively trading, it can seriously muddy the hobby and give us all a bad reputation (and don't we have enough to worry about with all the indescriminate poaching and CP naturalization we do? ). I think it's important to protect cultivars .... might like to name one myself someday. Jay Lechtman (L235@aol.com) Reston, Virginia USA ################### From: Phil Wilson Date: Mon, 5 Jan 1998 21:40:42 +0000 Subject: Re: British CPS Journal In message <4b0f9bc0@sset.com>, Leigh.Perkins@sset.com writes > To other British CPS members > > Sorry to post this here, but can anyone else tell me if they have > received their December CPS letter and the 1997 Journal as yet, or am > I just being very impatient. Please mail me direct to save the > bandwidth. > > Happy growing for '98! > > Leigh I'll make this a general posting in case there are any other members wondering the same thing. The final newsletter and journal has just been mailed and assuming the post office do their bit ought to arrive by the end of the week. On behalf of the society please accept our appologies but things got a little tight and we didn't quite make a packing session before Christmas. Regards, -- Phil Wilson Journal Editor ################### From: "Mellard, David" Date: Mon, 5 Jan 1998 16:07:00 -0500 Subject: Drosophyllum I'd appreciate finding out the pH preference of Drosophyllum. David ################### From: Mars Date: Mon, 5 Jan 1998 23:11:27 +-100 Subject: Re: Never say die Hi Mark and List, >Today, I noticed a new D. capensis sprouting where the old one had >been. I know this has been discussed several times before on this >list, but I want to reinforce--never give up on a "dead" cp, as it may >not be! Can you tell me what a little D. capensis looks like? I've torn mine apart in 6 smaller plants and in one of the pots I notice this very little CP. It looks like D. intermedia more than it looks like capensis. Now I've been messing around with seeds of D. intermedia so the chance is not zero, but.... Mars ################### From: Phil Wilson Date: Mon, 5 Jan 1998 20:55:26 +0000 Subject: Re: Cultivation In message <199801042216.WAA00810@smtpgate2.poptel.org.uk>, Gill Robinson writes >I have just joined this mailing list, and am interested in finding out the >most suitable species for cultivating in the UK. > What are your growing conditions - Greenhouse, outdoors, sunny windowsill etc? Regards, -- Phil Wilson ################### From: Al Bickell Date: Mon, 5 Jan 1998 20:36:29 -0500 (EST) Subject: frozen Nepenthes Hi CP'ers, Can anyone tell me if there has been any trial attempts to freeze Nepenthes seeds for storage and then germinate them? This works with tropical orchids and I was wondering if it worked for Nepenthes too. Thanks, Al Alan Bickell Canadian Tissue Culture Labratory Web Site ################### From: "Sara A. Gardner" Date: Mon, 05 Jan 1998 19:16:36 -0800 Subject: N. coccinea >N. coccinea is an old Victorian hybrid popular in glasshouses around the >turn of the century. Its rafflesiana x ampullaria crossed with >mirabilis. This plant is from lowland parentage and enjoys higher temps. >I keep mine inside a 50 gallon tank under twin tube flourescents with a >14 hour photoperiod. Make sure your potting mixture is open and acidic. >Growing temperatures within a range of 65-85f work best for this plant. > >Much success, > >Mark Pogany >Cleveland, Ohio >markp@crscms.com > Mark, is this likely to be what I bought in a large hanging pot at a garden shop marked "hanging pitcher plant"? Sara in Grants Pass, OR ################### From: "Gilles LARDY" Date: Tue, 6 Jan 1998 11:02:48 +0800 Subject: Help needed for seeds Hi, Further to Laurent Ide's advice I resort to our community to try to set up a new collection here in HK. I would appreciate to get any seeds of droseras (tropical & sub-tropical species), byblis, utrics, genlisea or neps. I don't have much to trade, except from D. spathulata 'HK', D. oblanceolata and N. mirabilis seeds and seedlings. Please e-mail me privately for details. Thanks to you all... ################### From: saharris@iafrica.com (Eric Green) Date: Tue, 06 Jan 98 04:29:50 GMT Subject: Pinguicula alpina and scented sundew flowers Are any fellow carnivorous plant growers able to provide details on the following two topics? 1. Does Pinguicula alpina occur in Greenland, or is Iceland the westernmost outpost of this species? 2. Do Drosera with scented flowers (to the human nose) occur beyond Australia and New Zealand? That is, is this phenomenon developed outside of the tuberous, pygmy and t-form sundew groups? Kind regards, Robert Gibson (in Cape Town) ################### From: Guy.VanDerKinderen@rug.ac.be Date: Tue, 6 Jan 1998 10:31:22 +0000 Subject: Re: too much light for Helis? Hello Jonathan, > Is there such a thing as too much light for Helis? I have mine about six > inches under six fluorescent bulbs, three of which are very powerful. > More specifically, I was wondering if too much light might inhibit their > development, as only one out of eight juvenile plants I have has > produced adult pitchers. To my experience, Helis can receive a lot of light, which I think is consistent with the high light intensities they receive in the tropics at the altitude they grow. I cultivate my plants about 20 to 30 cm under three cool white TRU-LITE lamps. New pitchers turn reddish almost immediately after appearance. Also in nature, they display this colour. Plants grow well and flower. Young, ex-vitro plants do the same, and don't burn. The terrarium in which they grow however receives regular misting to. > All of the varieties that I grow are doing well, but seem to get much > redder than photos I have seen of the same plants, and new plants tend > to burn rather badly before adapting. > I know that they are otherwise happy, since they have all grown very > well, divided, and even flowered, but I would really like to know if > reducing their light would help the young ones. In your case, I would advise to protect some young plants from high light intensities, and see the result. This provided that all other factors are optimal, but since your adult plants do grow well and flower, I think this is not the problem. Kind regards, Guy VdK ################### From: Wim Leys Date: Tue, 06 Jan 1998 10:53:30 +0100 Subject: D. binata multifida extrema I have been growing a D. binata multifida extrema for about three years, and each year it grows a little less vigorous than the year before. The leaves produced last year (summer) became no longer than 15 cm on very thin stalks. I have transplanted it two years ago in a 15 * 15 cm plastic pot with a mixture of about 5 peat / 1 pine needles / 2 perlite / 2 sand. All my other plants (Drosera, Sarracenia, VFT, Darlingtonia) are doing fine in this mixture. During summer it grows in the greenhouse in +- 3 cm water. During winter it is kept frost free in a cold room in our house (after I nearly lost it during its first winter in the greenhouse), the soil is kept moist, but not wet. What should I do to reinitialize its vigour ? To those to whom I have promised seeds, I'm just back from vacation. I will send the seeds this week. Kind regards Wim ################### From: Borneo Exotics Date: Tue, 06 Jan 1998 20:21:33 +0500 Subject: re: N. clipeata question Gilles Lardy wrote: I have put on my heater last week, and notice that my clipeata is growing faster (around 27 deg C). I thought this was a highland species, but recently R. Cantley put it in the lowland section of his website. Any comment and experience appreciated... Actually, N. clipeata is not a species I have ever grown, so I don't know much about it's cultivation requirements! The reason I put it in the lowland section is that the mountain it comes from, Gng Kelam is almost exactly 1,000m high which puts it borderline between highland and lowland. It grows on cliff faces, so presumably it doesn't exits on the top of the mountain (if it did it'd be long gone!). 27 deg C sounds about right for the altitude, but beware, if it behaves as a highlander, it may need a night-time temperature a bit lower than this. You may possibly find that growth slows down after a while, or abnormal growth starts to appear if it doesn't get the temperature swing. No doubt others who have growing experience can tell you more. Best of luck! Robert Cantley ################### From: "Andreas Wistuba" Date: Tue, 6 Jan 1998 15:39:28 +0000 Subject: re: N. clipeata question On 6 Jan 98 at 6:33, Borneo Exotics wrote: > Gilles Lardy wrote: > > I have put on my heater last week, and notice that my clipeata is growing > faster (around 27 deg C). I thought this was a highland species, but > recently R. Cantley put it in the lowland section of his website. > > Any comment and experience appreciated... > > Actually, N. clipeata is not a species I have ever grown, so I don't know > much about it's cultivation requirements! The reason I put it in the > lowland section is that the mountain it comes from, Gng Kelam is almost > exactly 1,000m high which puts it borderline between highland and lowland. > It grows on cliff faces, so presumably it doesn't exits on the top of the > mountain (if it did it'd be long gone!). > > 27 deg C sounds about right for the altitude, but beware, if it behaves as > a highlander, it may need a night-time temperature a bit lower than this. > You may possibly find that growth slows down after a while, or abnormal > growth starts to appear if it doesn't get the temperature swing. No doubt > others who have growing experience can tell you more. > > Best of luck! > > > Robert Cantley > > > > I'd recommend growing N. clipeata in an intermediate range of temperatures - not like extreme lowlanders (e.g. N. bicalcarata), however warmer than real highland species. I must admit that after establishing the first plants from tissue culture last spring N. clipeata has turned out to be easier than I had expected:-) They are not very fast but I had only very little losses. Bye, Andreas THE NEPENTHES NURSERY http://www.wistuba.com Mudauer Ring 227; 68259 Mannheim; Germany Fax: +49 621 7152028 nepenthes@wistuba.com ################### From: "E.A.J-C. Valette" Date: Tue, 6 Jan 1998 17:05:00 +0000 (GMT) Subject: water ? Happy new year to all. With the raining whether, we have here, I try to recolt the most rainwater as possible. I have a shed in my garden but the roof is made with shingel (spelling?) Do you think I can recolt the water anyway. Perhaps it could have heavymetal which be dangerous to the CP? At the moment, I only use plastic box. On the other hand, how can I keep this water and how long time?. It is safe if I only use plastic bottles? Any advise would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance. Eric ################### From: Barry Meyers-Rice Date: Tue, 6 Jan 1998 11:44:46 -0800 (PST) Subject: Niche Gardens Cultivars Hi everyone! Just for the record, the information that people are talking about, regarding the fine Sarracenia selections being developed at Niche Gardens, are NOT cultivar descriptions. Niche Gardens and Larry Mellichamp are arranging with Carnivorous Plant Newsletter to have their cultivars descriptions to appear in CPN. Just to clarify things a bit. Cheers Barry ------------------------ Dr. Barry A. Meyers-Rice Carnivorous Plant Newsletter Conservation Coeditor bazza@ucdavis.edu http://www.indirect.com/www/bazza/cps/cpn/cpn.html ################### From: BillSherren Date: Tue, 6 Jan 1998 20:05:27 -0000 Subject: Nepenthes Books Hi, Could anyone tell me where I could obtain these new Nepenthes Pitcher = Plants books that have been published recently.As I live in the UK and I = have been unable to find a supplier here. Thanks Bill ################### From: Perry Malouf Date: Tue, 6 Jan 1998 17:15:55 -0500 (EST) Subject: Re: Nepenthes Books Bill Sherren asked: > Could anyone tell me where I could obtain these new Nepenthes Pitcher = > Plants books that have been published recently. There are two books in question. Nepenthes of Borneo by Charles Clarke is the most recent. There is also Pitcher-Plants of Borneo by Anthea Phillipps and Anthony Lamb. Both are available from the same publisher: Natural History Publications (Borneo) SDN BHD Sabah, Malaysia If you need the entire mailing address, write me again. But, it's more efficient if you call/fax them, or send e-mail: Tel: 088-233098 Fax: 088-240768 The country code for Malaysia is 60. e-mail:chewlun@tm.net.my I had the best success by faxing them my intent to order. They return-faxed me a credit card order form with the desired book information on it. All I had to do was sign the form, fill in the credit card information, and fax it back. All currency exchange is taken care of automatically. You can also e-mail them with your intentions, and include your fax number. Regards, Perry Malouf ################### From: stephend@ricochet.net (stephend@ricochet.net) Date: Tue, 6 Jan 1998 18:54:06 -0800 Subject: CP class at UC Santa Cruz. I found this class listed on the following web page and I signed up for it. I wonder how many classes like this are taught every year? There are only two people signed up as of yesterday so it sounds like a very one-on-one class, but I'm sure it would be more informative and fun if there were others. Looking forward to seeing some of you there. :-) Stephen Davis San Jose, CA January 24: Santa Cruz The World of Carnivorous Plants: Natural History, Propagation, and Cultivation Carnivory or insectivory among the plant kingdom is a highly specialized survival adaptation that evolved in widely unrelated plant families. Participants in this seminar will explore the rich natural history of the world's diversity of carnivorous plants. We will study their distribution and explore their native habitats, evolution, ecology, and adaptations to carnivory. Passive and active methods of capture and digestive mechanisms will be featured and studied. Percipients will also learn how to propagate and grow carnivorous plants through hands-on demonstrations and discussion. Various topics will be addressed, including hybridization, pests and diseases, watering requirements, and indoor and outdoor cultivation. This is a hands-on workshop. The instructor will bring live plants for display and will show slides. Participants will tour the UCSC Arboretum's carnivorous plant displays. Instructor: Brian Jeffers, owner and manager of Darrow Nurseries, Watsonville. Fee: $74 Saturday, January 24 from 10 am to 3 pm (bring a bag lunch). co-sponsored by UCSC Extension and UCSC Arboretum UCSC Arboretum High Street, UCSC, Santa Cruz 1-800-660-8639 Stephen Davis stephend@ricochet.net ################### From: Derek Glidden Date: Tue, 6 Jan 1998 22:57:09 -0500 (EST) Subject: California and plants I have the chance to take a new job in California, which I like so much better than Florida, but I was told just today that CA has a "No Plants Come Into the State" policy and that all my CP would have to stay behind. Well, I don't have a years'-old collection, but I'd still be pretty bummed about having to get rid of all my plants and it would be a major factor in my considering to move. Does anyone know anything more about this import policy of CA, or if there is a way to get some kind of phytosanitary certificate or something so I could bring my babies with me? -=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-= Derek Glidden http://www.illusionary.com Illusionary.com Home of the Pagan Resource Site Web development, database, graphics and general plumbing Linux, FreeBSD, Apache, MySQL, PostgreSQL, PHP (Say No to NT!) ################### From: J Mitchell Date: Tue, 06 Jan 1998 22:34:32 +0000 Subject: drying sphagnum? I've been frustrated lately with sphagnum (dried), which I need for several species I grow. Basically, the cheap stuff is filthy, stinky, full of seeds and spores, and generally not something I want to put my Heliamphoras and other rarer plants into. And the expensive stuff is, well, expensive. I have found some clean, nice New Zealand moss, but it's available only sporadically and it's like $10 or $12 for a bag barely big enough to repot a half dozen 4" pots. Well, the other day I was trimming some of my live sphagnum, and just left it out on a table to see if it would dry well. The result was a fairly nice dried moss, somewhat lighter and fluffier than the bagged stuff. I think it would be great if I could grow and dry my own moss; it would be guaranteed pure and weed free, and cost nothing but terrarium space. So, has anyone had experience doing this? Does it work, or is something done to the packaged stuff that is necessary? I know how to grow live sphagnum just fine, I'm only wondering if anyone knows how to turn it into usable dried stuff. Any help would be greatly appreciated- -Jonathan ################### From: Bruce R Salmon Date: Wed, 7 Jan 1998 18:59:40 +1300 (NZDT) Subject: * NEP COMPETITION * Yes, I'm feeling generous again. I have 12, thats right twelve, packets of fresh N. lavicola seed to *give* away.... You must be absolutely bananas I hear you say. Well everyone's entitled to their own opinion. BUT there is a catch - well it's not a competition for nothing! To win a free packet you must... Tell me why you think you deserve it in the most *seductive* and *witty* way you can think of. All winners will be notified on this channel so that losers know whose arms to twist. Competition closes same bat time, same bat channel, next bat week. Brucie 13 Rothery Road Manurewa Auckland New Zealand ################### From: SCHLAUER@chemie.uni-wuerzburg.de Date: Wed, 7 Jan 1998 08:39:50 Subject: Re: Pinguicula alpina and scented sundew flowers Dear Robert, > 1. Does Pinguicula alpina occur in Greenland, or is Iceland the > westernmost outpost of this species? No record known from Greenland. All records from America erroneous (confusion with _P. villosa_ or _P. vulgaris_). Where do you have the information on Iceland from? I do not know of any record of _P. alpina_ from there. I have seen specimens of _P. vulgaris_ from Iceland, however. So the W most occurrence of _P. alpina_ seems to be in Spain (Pyrenees). > 2. Do Drosera with scented flowers (to the human nose) occur beyond > Australia and New Zealand? That is, is this phenomenon developed > outside of the tuberous, pygmy and t-form sundew groups? I do not know of any outside that area. The scented species do belong to subgenera that are (almost) endemic to Au/N.Zeal., so it is not very likely to find these species (except _D. peltata_) somewhere else (how about _D. insolita_? Has any of the many collectors of this species ever sniffed at the flowers? ;-)). However, there is a possibility that scent just has not been noted by the collectors of other species in other regions. Kind regards Jan ################### From: juerg.steiger@iae.unibe.ch (Juerg Steiger) Date: Wed, 07 Jan 1998 09:31:33 +0100 Subject: Re: Pinguicula alpina and scented sundew flowers Robert Gibson asks: >1. Does Pinguicula alpina occur in Greenland, or is Iceland the >westernmost outpost of this species? P. alpina neither grows in Greenland nor in Iceland. It reaches its northwesternmost distribution sites in Scotland and Norway. The only butterwort occurring in Greenland and Iceland is P. vulgaris. Kind regards Juerg ___________________________________________________ Juerg Steiger, Institut fuer Aus-, Weiter- und Fortbildung IAWF, University of Bern, Medical Faculty, Inselspital 37a, CH-3010 Bern, Switzerland. Phone: +41 (0)31 632 9887, Fax: +41 (0)31 632 9871 ################### From: SCHLAUER@chemie.uni-wuerzburg.de Date: Wed, 7 Jan 1998 09:48:54 Subject: Re: small ping from Oaxaca Dear Edward, > There is a pinguicula that grows in Oaxaca, is self fertile, and grows > only as big as your thumb nail. > If you know what this plant is named, please tell me. There are several possibilities. The most probable is _P. crenatiloba_, a close relative of the quite frequently cultivated _P. emarginata_. It can be recognized by the flowers that have emarginate corolla lobes (with distinct teeth at the tip). It is one of the smallest species in the genus and the smallest known from Mexico. > I'll be in Oaxaca again. If you know locations of pings in this state I > would like to talk with you. There are localities all over this state. If you visit places in the Sierra that are not yet known as type localities of described species (cf. _P. gigantea, greenwoodii, hemiepiphytica, laueana, mirandae, rectifolia, stolonifera, utricularioides_ in the cp database, all described since 1989!), you will probably find new locations, and perhaps even new species! Visit the 1998 cp conference at Bonn, Germany (May 29 - June 1). Amongst others, Hans Luhrs (who described two of the species mentioned above himself) will tell about his experience in Mexico. Registration forms are in the most recent issue of CPN and on the web: http://www.gfp.org/icps/anmform.htm Kind regards Jan ################### From: SCHLAUER@chemie.uni-wuerzburg.de Date: Wed, 7 Jan 1998 09:58:15 Subject: list of cp cultivars Dear David, > Is there a master list of Sarracenia cultivars somewhere? What you are talking about is the International Register of Carnivorous Plant Cultivars. This is in preparation as one of the installations of the ICPS as the forthcoming International registration Authority of cp cultivars. If you want to see what information is available already, please use the cp database (searching for single quotes ' will output all cultivars and a few other records). Kind regards Jan ################### From: Rand Nicholson Date: Wed, 7 Jan 1998 08:31:59 -0400 Subject: Re: drying sphagnum? >I've been frustrated lately with sphagnum (dried), which I need for >several species I grow. >Basically, the cheap stuff is filthy, stinky, full of seeds and spores, >and generally not something I want to put my Heliamphoras and other >rarer plants into. (snip) >So, has anyone had experience doing this? Does it work, or is something >done to the packaged stuff that is necessary? >I know how to grow live sphagnum just fine, I'm only wondering if anyone >knows how to turn it into usable dried stuff. > >Any help would be greatly appreciated- > >-Jonathan If you can grow it so the fibers (stems) reach any length at all, the rest should be easy. Of course, up here in Canada, I can just pick the stuff up during a walk in the woods and stuff it in a bag. When the moss has had some good growth, try giving it a severe haircut and then just spread it out thinly in a warm sunny spot or under a mild heat source (a few bright lightbulbs). It will dry to a greyish colour and feel light and somewhat brittle, in a few hours. At this point it is a dry sponge and can be stored. When you use this on your plants, moisten it just enough so that it becomes workable and pack it into the pot. When you water it (I do it by soaking) the material will expand and should anchor anything you have planted in it quite nicely. If you let it dry out _completely_ after potting, it can be difficult to re-moisten. If you are using Canadian sphagnum, don't be surprised if the stuff starts growing again on the surface of your pots: the spores can survive a lot of tough treatment. HTH. Kind Regards, Rand Rand Nicholson New Brunswick Maritime Canada, Z 5b ################### From: "Semanchuk, Phil J" Date: Wed, 7 Jan 1998 10:08:33 -0500 Subject: RE: water ? > With the raining whether, we have here, I try to > recolt the most rainwater as possible. I have a shed > in my garden but the roof is made with shingel > (spelling?) Do you think I can recolt the water > anyway. > Perhaps it could have heavymetal which be dangerous > to the CP? At the moment, I only use plastic box. > > On the other hand, how can I keep this water and how > long time?. It is safe if I only use plastic bottles? Eric, I collect water from my roof which is covered with asphalt shingles, the standard roofing material in the U.S.A. Since asphalt is a petroleum product, I think that some nasty chemicals probably leach out of it as it sits in the sun. In the summer when rains are infrequent I usually let it rain for a while before I put my bucket out to catch the rainwater. My theory is that the rain will wash off some of the nasty chemicals so that the rainwater I collect will be relatively clean. I store my water in 5 gallon buckets with lids on top to keep mosquitoes from breeding in them. I've had my water get algae growth but to my knowledge it has never turned "sour" or "bad". Hope this helps, Phil URL du jour: http://www.431.org/toast/toasthaiku.html ################### From: Johannes.Marabini@t-online.de (Johannes Marabini) Date: Wed, 07 Jan 1998 16:03:43 +0100 Subject: Re: N.clipeata Gilles Lardy wrote: x I have put on my heater last week, and notice that my clipeata is growing x faster (around 27 deg C). I thought this was a highland species, but x recently R. Cantley put it in the lowland section of his excellent website. You can say that Nepenthes clipeata is a montain plant, not highland (over 1500m) and not lowland (below 500m). The (former) location of N.clipeata is Gunong Kelam in Kalimantan (you can see a photo in my homepage), which is 800 m high. The original place, where N.clipeata was found, is now destroyed by a fire and was at an altitude of about 700 m at a steep slope of this montain. During the day it is terrible hot (38 deg. Cel.)at this place and at night it cools down to 18 - 20 deg.Cel. Johannes -- Homepage: http://home.t-online.de/home/johannes.marabini@t-online.de/index.htm ################### From: mark.fisher@tpwd.state.tx.us Date: Wed, 07 Jan 98 10:55:02 cst Subject: Re: Never say die >>Today, I noticed a new D. capensis sprouting where the old one had >>been. I know this has been discussed several times before on this >>list, but I want to reinforce--never give up on a "dead" cp, as it >>may not be! >Can you tell me what a little D. capensis looks like? I've torn mine >apart in 6 smaller plants and in one of the pots I notice this very >little CP. It looks like D. intermedia more than it looks like >capensis. Now I've been messing around with seeds of D. intermedia so >the chance is not zero, but.... Well, it's not simply a miniature version of a full-grown plant. The leaves are out of proportion and are rather short and stubby. Mine has bright red tentacles. I agree it looks more like a full-grown D. intermedia than capensis (I do not have any intermedia in the greenhouse, so that's not it). I've got tons 'o D. spatulata popping up everywhere, but that's easy to distinguish. Regards, Mark ################### From: "Gilles LARDY" Date: Wed, 7 Jan 1998 01:19:03 +0800 Subject: Pix-Check this out... Hi everybody, Thank you for those who have answered my message regarding seeds, and for those who will answer soon :).... I will answer to the first ones tomorrow (today very busy...) However, here is the address where, further to many requests (Hi Ivo...), are displayed some pix of HK CPs Hope you'll appreciate it, more to come soon. http://www.geocities.com/RainForest/Canopy/1244/MainFrame.htm Gilles ################### From: SCHLAUER@chemie.uni-wuerzburg.de Date: Wed, 7 Jan 1998 18:58:37 Subject: Re: N.clipeata Dear clipeatologists, > You can say that Nepenthes clipeata is a montain plant, not highland > (over 1500m) and not lowland (below 500m). The (former) location of > N.clipeata is Gunong Kelam in Kalimantan (you can see a photo in > my homepage), which is 800 m high. The original place, where > N.clipeata was found, is now destroyed by a fire and was at an > altitude of about 700 m at a steep slope of this montain. During > the day it is terrible hot (38 deg. Cel.)at this place and at night > it cools down to 18 - 20 deg.Cel. In addition to these climatic factors (elevation, geographical latitude), also edaphic (soil, etc.) factors determine the endemism of this most remarkable species. G.Kelam is an inselberg (an isolated outcrop of siliceous rock). _N. clipeata_ (unlike other plants inhabiting a similar geographical setting) is adapted to this peculiar rock surface situation that is almost devoid of other plants, so it is very unlikely that this species can be found somewhere in the close neighbourhood of G.Kelam (i.e. in habitats in which it would not survive competition by other plants that are more vigorous in these more "normal" habitats). In fact the known specimens indicate that this mountain is the only station of the species at all. It is quite remarkable that this (almost?) extinct species was never protected more than any other _Nepenthes_ (cf. N.mirabilis_!). Kind regards Jan ################### From: "Jim & Karla (c223@rollanet.org)" Date: Wed, 7 Jan 1998 13:29:10 -0500 Subject: Rain water collection barrel Hi, I live in an area of Missouri, USA that has very hard water. = When used on my orchids, bromiliads, and CP it slowly caused then to = lose vigor and die. So I bought a 30 gallon plastic trash can, cut a = small rectangular hole in the lid to conform to the shape of the gutter = downspout and placed it on a three foot high wooden platform under the = downspout. I also installed a plastic faucet in the bottom front of the barrel so = that I can draw off the water that I need for the green house plants and = save the rest in the barrel. I put the water into twenty gallon = Rubbermaid containers. Any large, clean plastic container will do. Make = sure it has a lid for safety. Little kids love water. The black = coloring of the collection can helps to quickly melt the outer few = inches of the can when it is frozen solid. That is more often than not = here in Missouri in the winter. My roof is asphalt shingle and the = plants have been using water collected this way for two years. They are = very vigorous and healthy. Jim Farrelly ################### From: dave evans Date: Wed, 07 Jan 98 20:20 EST Subject: Re: D. graminifolia > From: -Tom- > > > Hey Dave - any of the ones I gave to you survive? How were you > growing them? Hi List, At first I couldn't recall Tom giving me any D.gram., but then I realized we each planted some seeds of this species last year over the holiday break. I think Tom had the D.gram. seeds originally. Well, most died with the heat of summer. As Fernando mentioned, these S.American Drosera like things cool, like Darlingtonia. I have one D.gram. left out of about a dozen. It was the one in the most shade and hence, the coolest. Fernando, do you have any ideas about how to induce flowering in this species by changing the hours of light per day? Also, how large should (can?) a plant be before flowering. Thank-you, Dave Evans ################### From: ss66428 Date: Thu, 08 Jan 1998 12:32:02 +0900 Subject: Re: D.graminifolia Hi Dave, Your question on how to induce flowering in D.graminifolia is interesting. Before going into any details, first you have to keep in mind that the type plants on the Caraca (= Ka-RA-ssa) Highlands flower in late summer, which corresponds to March in Brazil. This is the wet season. A small number of plants will then flower again in September, which is at the end of winter and height of the dry season. At all other D.graminifolia populations I have studied (Diamantina, Grao Mogol, Itacambira, and Botumirim, further north from Caraca, all in the state of Minas Gerais, southwestern Brazil) the plants flower around September. I'm not sure if there is an ideal size for it to begin flowering at. I've seen rather small plants flowering in the wild on numerous occasions. I can think of two factors involved in the induction of flowering in this species: soil humidity and photoperiod. For D.graminifolia from Caraca, I would say photoperiod is the important factor, since in March (when they flower) the soil has been wet for many months and has not yet started to dry out. As for the more northern populations of D.graminifolia, I'm not sure which of the two possible factors is more important, if any. So first you would have to find out where your plants came from. If you don't know, I could send you more info on how to tell the Caraca form apart from the otehrs based on morphology. If the plants are too small though, it would be difficult to tell apart the Diamantina form from the Grao Mogol/ Itacambira/Botumirim form, the latter being very distinct when in flower (bigger, beautiful flowers!) and also having differen shaped styles, stamens, and seeds. All the Best, Fernando Rivadavia Tokyo, Japan ################### From: saharris@iafrica.com (Eric Green) Date: Thu, 08 Jan 98 04:25:52 GMT Subject: Re: Pinguicula alpina in Iceland Dear Jeurg, Jan and other Pinguicula growers, Whilst in Iceland I saw a copy of the book "Flora of Iceland" by A. Love, published in 1983, by Almenn Bokafelagid, in Reykjavik. In it was the gem of information about Pinguicula alpina, complete with a line drawing. This species has been recorded only three times, between 1785 and 1932, in western and northwestern parts of the island. It is thus very rare; which may in part be due to an incredibly short growing period at this northern lattitude. It would be interesting to know if this population differs from that in Scotland and Norway. Cheers, Robert ################### From: MARK POGANY Date: Thu, 8 Jan 1998 01:39:36 -0500 Subject: A bookseller URL Below is the URL of a place that has a good supply of the new Nepenthes book by Charles Clarke. Someone on the list posted it just before New Year's so here it is again in case anyone missed it. http://www.orchidweb.com/orchids/ Orchids Limited 4630 Fernbrook Lane Plymouth, MN 55446 Phone: (612)559-6425 Toll Free: 1-800-669-6006 Fax: (612)557-6956 The guy that I talked to on the phone said they received a supply of that book direct from the publisher in Malaysia. Switching gears I have a Nep question. How long does it generally take for highland and lowland neps to strike? I have several stem cuttings of khasiana, gracilis, and coccinea stuck in 4" pots with sphagnum/perlite mix. These in turn are inside sealed transparent plastic food jars and are under high intensity flourescents for 14 hours a day. Does the time of year have any bearing on this? Mark Pogany Cleveland, Ohio markp@crscms.com ################### From: "Ernest Ming" Date: Thu, 8 Jan 1998 17:27:29 -0000 Subject: venus flytrap Hi everyone, I am new here to this mailing thing. I have bought some packet from a garden shop in the U.K which includes a packet of seeds and some dried up soil and a 2" pot. I have now successfully germinated the seeds into tiny plants, these are suppose to be venus flytraps but they haven't any traps formed yet. Is this normal, do they have to grow a bit to form traps? I am new to this whole thing about carnivorous plants and know nothing much about it. Could anybody give me some advice on how to grow these Venus flytraps and what soil is best to use etc.. I also want to start tissue culturing, could anybody advice on that too? And could somebody tell me what is the best carnivorous plants to grow in terms of both easyness and beauty. email me at eyhm@btinternet.com thanks ernest ################### From: saharris@iafrica.com (Eric Green) Date: Thu, 08 Jan 98 18:18:24 GMT Subject: SACPS fieldtrip to Silvermine, Cape Town Greetings fellow cp enthusiasts, Robert here in Cape Town with a brief hot-off-the-press account of a South African Carnivorous Plant Society fieldtrip to the Silvermine area, in the Cape Range, today. Dot and Mark Cappaert (secretary and president of the SACPS), their Belgiun friend Elizabeth, Eric Green and I spent the afternoon near Silvermine, approximately 10km south of Table Mountain. The highlight of the afternoon was the discovery of a natural hybrid, by Elizabeth. It was also interesting to experience highly localised rain in this coastal hilly region. The following species were seen - D. capensis, D. aliciae, D. trinervia, D. glabripes, D. ramentacea, U. bisquamata and D. hilaris. All but the last species were in flower; D. hilaris was dormant. Where D. capensis and D. aliciae grew together a superb example of the natural hybrid between both species was found. It has a semi-erect rosette, to 8 cm across; is effectively stemless; the scape has an initially downcurved base, and for the vertical portion, is covered in short-stalked retentive glands. From this it appears that its parentage is D. aliciae (seed parent) x D. capensis (pollen parent). Whilst this hybrid has been produced artifically on almost every continent it was still brilliant to see that it does occur in nature. The expedition certainly demonstrates how revisiting favourite fieldsites can continue to yield pleasant surprises:-) It was also a pleasure to meet Dot, Mark and Elizabeth. Cheers, Robert PS. For further information on the South African Carnivorous Plant Society please write to Dot Cappaert, PO Box 1378, KRUGERSDORP 1740, Republic of South Africa; fax [South Africa] (0)11 956 6444. ################### From: Johannes.Marabini@t-online.de (Johannes Marabini) Date: Thu, 08 Jan 1998 19:46:36 +0100 Subject: Re:N.clipeata Jan wrote: In addition to these climatic factors (elevation, geographical latitude), also edaphic (soil, etc.) factors determine the endemism of this most remarkable species. G.Kelam is an inselberg (an isolated outcrop of siliceous rock). _N. clipeata_ (unlike other plants inhabiting a similar geographical setting) is adapted to this peculiar rock surface situation that is almost devoid of other plants, so it is very unlikely that this species can be found somewhere in the close neighbourhood of G.Kelam (i.e. in habitats in which it would not survive competition by other plants that are more vigorous in these more "normal" habitats). In fact the known specimens indicate that this mountain is the only station of the species at all. It is quite remarkable that this (almost?) extinct species was never protected more than any other _Nepenthes_ (cf. N.mirabilis_!). That is true. But you must know, that there is a another montain nearby Kelam, which is much lower but also an "inselberg". Nobody has been there until now. And what about the sumit-plateau? It is well known, that there is N.bicalcarata, albomarginata ...growing. In over 800 meters! And it is told, that on the slippery and steep rockfaces should be more clipeata. I heard, that the Indonesian government has a scientifical station there. And there is only a small liana up to the last part of the montain! Left and right of the very small and wet path you can fall down a few hundret meters. What will happen, if you cut it? I know, that the Dayaks there use this montain for hunting. I believe we should think about bringing seeds (or invitro speciments) of cultivated clipeata any time back to this montain! Perhaps the Indonesian government can help. -- Homepage: http://home.t-online.de/home/johannes.marabini@t-online.de/index.htm ################### From: "Mellard, David" Date: Thu, 8 Jan 1998 17:50:00 -0500 Subject: Update -- New Year's gift of seed It's almost done. Most of the envelopes went out today to people who requested seed. I'm waiting on a couple of addresses to come in for the remainder. I thought it would be fun to let you know what kind of response this got. I sent out 246 seed packets with each packet hopefully containing about 50 to 100 seeds. Several people requested large quantities of certain seed so when it was available, they got it. I estimate that somewhere between 17,000 to 34,000 seeds went out. Whew! People from 9 US states and 11 countries are receiving seed. The most seed went to Daniel Joel because he mentioned the words conversation and setting up a seed bank in Israel. He got 51 packets and almost 5,000 seed. I'd say Merry Christmas but it probably doesn't work in this situation and I can't spell the other one. I hope you have fun with the seed. David ################### From: "Ernest Ming" Date: Thu, 8 Jan 1998 23:26:44 -0000 Subject: VFT from seeds, HELP! Hi there, I am completely new to this insect eating of the plant kingdom. I have recently got some VFT seeds and they have already germinated.I wonder what is the best time to start planting venus flytraps from seeds. I also want to know what is the best time to plant the other CPs from seeds? could you please give me some advice. thanks, Ernest. (eyhm@btinternet.com) ################### From: dave evans Date: Thu, 08 Jan 98 18:20 EST Subject: Re: D.aliciae/D.hamiltonii, B.gigantea > From: "Jens Rotthauwe" > > I asked this before but got no answers: > How do I tell D.aliciae from D.hamiltonii when they are not in flower ? > I received a plant labelled hamiltonii and it looks exactly like my aliciaes Hello Jens, D. hamiltonii's leaves seem to have more of a petiole than D. aliciae. Can anyone say what species sp. floating (South Africa) might be? I think it is D.aliciae, but am not sure... Dave Evans ################### From: Michal Dworaczek Date: Thu, 08 Jan 1998 18:26:10 -0600 Subject: Looking for Sphagnum moss Does anyone know where to get some seeds of Sphagnum moss? Is it easy to grow? ,-~~-.___. <----------------------------------------> / | ' \ -=| Michal Dworaczek |=- ( ) 0 -=| dworaczek@usa.net |=- \_/-, ,----' -=| (306)-477-2083 Saskatoon, Saskatchewan |=- ==== // -=| C A N A D A |=- / \-'~; /~~~(O) <----------------------------------------> / __/~| / IBM | Check out my home page!!! =( ______| (_________| http://dworaczek.home.ml.org YOU CAN ALSO CONTACT ME USING ICQ - MY NUMBER IS 5922615 ################### From: Rand Nicholson Date: Thu, 8 Jan 1998 21:45:49 -0400 Subject: Re: Looking for Sphagnum moss >Does anyone know where to get some seeds of Sphagnum moss? Is it easy to >grow? > > ,-~~-.___. <----------------------------------------> > / | ' \ -=| Michal Dworaczek |=- Mike: You are in Canada, the largest producer of the stuff. Since it is winter, go to your nearest plant nursery and ask for a bag of live sphagnum moss. I get a shopping bag full for a couple of bucks. It has spores instead of seeds and a handfull of the stuff will quickly spread if you keep it damp and give it bright light. Kind Regards, Rand Rand Nicholson New Brunswick Maritime Canada, Z 5b ################### From: "Gilles LARDY" Date: Fri, 9 Jan 1998 11:38:27 +0800 Subject: Re: Re:N.clipeata Hi Johannes, Thank you for these precisions, but could you also describe the soil and humidity conditions in which the plants grow ? Does siliceous rock means that they grow in sand, or is it sphagnum, and do they have water running on the roots ? Cheers. Gilles >That is true. But you must know, that there is a another montain >nearby Kelam, which is much lower but also an "inselberg". Nobody has >been there until now. And what about the sumit-plateau? It is well >known, that there is N.bicalcarata, albomarginata ...growing. In over >800 meters! And it is told, that on the slippery and steep rockfaces >should be more clipeata. I heard, that the Indonesian government has a >scientifical station there. And there is only a small liana up to the >last part of the montain! Left and right of the very small and wet >path you can fall down a few hundret meters. What will happen, if you >cut it? I know, that the Dayaks there use this montain for hunting. > >I believe we should think about bringing seeds (or invitro speciments) >of cultivated clipeata any time back to this montain! Perhaps the >Indonesian government can help. > >-- >Homepage: >http://home.t-online.de/home/johannes.marabini@t-online.de/index.htm > > > > ################### From: MARK POGANY Date: Thu, 8 Jan 1998 23:24:28 -0500 Subject: Lowrie Book I have an extra copy of Carnivorous Plants of Australia, Volume 2 by Allen Lowrie for sale. Anyone interested can contact me at: markp@crscms.com (This is the second of three volumes and covers in detail all of the pygmy droseras with many pictures and line drawings.) Plotting world-wide conquest with D. capensis, Mark Pogany Cleveland, Ohio ################### From: KILSMOOTH Date: Fri, 9 Jan 1998 04:34:15 EST Subject: D.hamiltonni and D.sp. "S. Africa". Hello to all!!! Bri here...Hmmm,Well,about all i can do is give a comparison of my plants.My D.hamiltonni are a darker green than D.alicae,and twice the size...I've had D.hamiltonni get to about 3" in diameter,while my D.alicae are smaller,maybe 2""....The only real difference i've seen is ...darker coloration{green} and larger size...My D."S. Africa " Looks kinda like a spatulate version of D.slackii,with small,tight rosettes maybe an inch in diameter...This sp. definately seems to hate cooler weather...anything below 55 deg.F,as some African sp. do.......Feeding my flytraps Filet Mignon,Brian:).....Hey,any one got any Heliams for sale or trade??LOTS of them?? email me.......Brian ################### From: "E.A.J-C. Valette" Date: Fri, 9 Jan 1998 10:43:35 +0000 (GMT) Subject: sphagnum moss Can someone tell me what the difference between moss and sphagnum moss? Is the sphagnum moss in Canada differente of this in France for example? The plants I bought in my garden center have no moss!! and It is drying quite quick. I thougt use the moss which growing all the year under the christmas trees in my garden (Framce). This moss grows very vigorous under the trees. It is like a cushion 2 cm depth and It propagates with creeping extension. I think this moss is used to create flowers decoration. Is it wrong if I m going to use it? thanks of advices Eric ################### From: Randall Palmer Date: Fri, 9 Jan 1998 05:46:06 -0500 (EST) Subject: Re: CP Ernest The trap on the Venus grows out 3/4 of an inch before you'll see the begining of the formation of the trap and then it will unfold. As for the medium find the darkest/richest Canadian peat type. You might also want to use some white styafoam (spelling) pellects, to help allow air around the roots. Randy Palmer sfdzeqe0@scfn.thpl.lib.fl.us ################### From: Randall Palmer Date: Fri, 9 Jan 1998 06:21:02 -0500 (EST) Subject: Re: CP Venus Ernest When to plant seeds. Tomorrow, after you put seeds in cup of water over night. Just place the seed on top of peat where you want to grow, it is possible to move to another potbut for a short time bring water to the height of the soil so that the plant can absorb enough until it start to grow again. Randy Palmer sfdzeqe0@scfn.thpl.lib.fl.us ################### From: -Tom- Date: Fri, 9 Jan 1998 09:28:19 -0500 (EST) Subject: Re: Update -- New Year's gift of seed David, >requested seed. I'm waiting on a couple of addresses to come in for >the remainder. Like I said before, I am in no big hurry - whenever:) >I thought it would be fun to let you know what kind of response this >got. I sent out 246 seed packets with each packet hopefully containing >about 50 to 100 seeds. Several people requested large quantities of >certain seed so when it was available, they got it. I estimate that >somewhere between 17,000 to 34,000 seeds went out. Whew! That is a hell of a lot of seed! >I hope you have fun with the seed. I just hope it germinates:) The fun will come when I get to see them grow up! Take care & keep on growing, Thomas K. Hayes DANGEROUS PLANTS dangerous_plants@hotmail.com tkhayes@mail.microserve.net http://www.infinicom.com/~thayes ################### From: "Semanchuk, Phil J" Date: Fri, 9 Jan 1998 09:59:06 -0500 Subject: RE: venus flytrap > I am new to this whole thing about carnivorous > plants and know nothing much about it. Could anybody > give me some advice on how to grow these Venus > flytraps and what soil is best to use etc.. > I also want to start tissue culturing, could anybody > advice on that too? Ernest, There are some excellent pages on the Web. The CP FAQ is at http://www.indirect.com/www/bazza/cps/faq/faq.html There's another very good page (including at least one link to tissue culture info) at http://randomaccess.unm.edu/www/cp/cparchive.html You can also learn a great deal from lurking on the CP list. Good growing, Phil URL du jour: http://www.squirrelnutzippers.com/ ################### From: saharris@iafrica.com (Eric Green) Date: Fri, 09 Jan 98 17:41:10 GMT Subject: Drosera sp. "floating" Dear Dave and all other cp fans, Drosera sp. "floating" is allied to D. admirabilis (ie in the D. cuneifolia complex). I have yet to see the flower structure but the leaf, to 2 cm long, is cuneiform, with very few white hairs on the leaf undersurface (cf D. aliciae). The scape has an ascending base which clears the rosette edge before becoming erect (this is closer to D. aliciae than D. admirabilis). This variant grows in a shallow, perennial creek adjacent to D. regia, in a mountain valley NE of Cape Town. It's ambiguous fieldname is derived from some plants in the colony which grow in a few cm of water, and which have short, flexible stems and leaves with up arched bases, so that the rosettes are at the water surface and may be moved around a little on the flexible, but definitely strongly fixed stem. This field name has led to some confusion on how to cultivate this variant. One additional feature of this variant, apparently not shared by other perennial flat rosetted Drosera in South Africa is the pressence of sessile, small red, retentive galnds on the leaf undersurface. Before the month is out I look forward to revisiting the site, and , hopefully, see the open flowers. More details, with a sketch, are in the September Bulletin of the Ausytralian Carnivorous Plant Society, or check out photos taken by Fernando or myself. This variant is readily available from nurseries in Europe, especially Germany, and those plants in cultivation appear to have a more extensive hair cover on the leaf undersurface. Stay tuned for further details.... Robert Gibson ################### From: "Mellard, David" Date: Fri, 9 Jan 1998 08:57:00 -0500 Subject: off to the islands I will be travelling to Puerto Rico the week of Jan 12 to investigate a hazardous waste site. If you have questions about your seed request, I will answer them after January 20. Also, the rest of the seed requests will go out today. If you do not receive your seeds in a reasonable amount of time for where you live, please send me an email, and I will check whether or not I sent your seeds. I try to be infallible, so much is expected of government employees , but there is a chance that I may have misplaced someone's email request. David Atlanta USA ################### From: "the drake" Date: Thu, 08 Jan 1998 21:25:59 -0700 Subject: GREAT BRITAIN CP COLLECTORS If there are any CP collectors in Great Britain who live near "Cambrian Carnivores", know the telephone number for the place, or know the owner or his personal telephone number, please reply to me with this information. I had sent an order and want to change the order, but am unable to get in touch with the owner (Peter Cole) at Cambrian Carnivores. I am trying to find out if there is anybody on this list who can deliver a message in person for me, or can provide any of the info I asked about. Thanks. Free web-based email, Forever, From anywhere! http://www.mailexcite.com ################### From: "Ernest Ming" Date: Fri, 9 Jan 1998 20:49:13 -0000 Subject: I need help with T.C I am living in the U.K now and wish to start tissue culturing but I do not have any pressure cooker. I wonder if it is possible to do tissue culturing without this pressure cooker provided I have a microwave and an oven.Can somebody advice please. ################### From: Richard Brown Date: Fri, 09 Jan 1998 21:04:57 -0500 Subject: Re:Striking Nep Cuttings Trent here in the office. Your description of how you are taking cuttings sounds like it should work. Allow the khasiana cuttings to experience a significantly lower night temperature drop than the gracilis and Coccinea. For the two lowlanders try nights around 65 F and the khasiana may not strike at all unless down to 55-60 degrees F. Here in Florida, I can only take cutting of highlanders in the dead of winter, when I have night temp drops that Neps all seem to love. They seem to root quicker and are less prone to black rot. I have struck maxima with 100% sucess by waiting to take the cuttings in mid Dec. As for light, I put them under the benches and don't touch until they produce a pitcher. Very important where cuttings are concerned-Do Not Move Them Around! -Don't even rotate the pot! Good luck. I hope this helps. Until later, Trent Meeks Pompano Beach, Florida ################### From: patfi Date: Sat, 10 Jan 1998 15:41:38 +1300 Subject: changing e-mail address Hi all... I am just trying to tell this list that I have changed address from... patfi@iconz.co.nz to.....patfi@xtra.co.nz. Unfortuneately the list info was on my old Eudora stuff that got turfed ages ago...HELP!!!!! how do I go about this minor task????? Thanks for your help Fiona - a newsgroup newbie!! ################### From: TANWK Date: Sat, 10 Jan 1998 09:51:26 +0800 Subject: N.lowii photo Dear Fellow-CP'ers, I have photos of (a) a $5 Brunei currency note showing N. lowii (on the note itself it is given as Somboi somboi, probably its native name); (b) Malayan stamps showing Nepenthes lowii, rajah, sanguinea, and macfarlanei; (c) Malaysian $20 currency note showing N.rafflesiana. Would someone who has a CP website showing Nepenthes photos like to have the above on his/her website as well? I also have photos of the natural hybrid (N. rafflesiana x N. gracilis). Although N. rafflesiana and N. gracilis are common here in Singapore, Malaysia and Indonesia, the natural hybrid itself is not. [There are no photos of it in the following books: Nepenthes of Borneo (Clarke) Pitcher Plants of Borneo (Phillipps & Lamb) Pitcher Plants of Malaya and Singapore (Shivas) Nepenthes of Mount Kinabalu (Kurata)] Happy CP'ing to all, TAN Wee Kiat from Singapore ################### From: Joe Cumbee Date: Fri, 09 Jan 1998 22:20:23 -0500 Subject: Re: I need help with T.C Ernest, Try http://www.home.turbonet.com/sati/tcinfo.htm I think you find what you need. Eric Cumbee Ernest Ming wrote: > I am living in the U.K now and wish to start tissue culturing but I do not > have any pressure cooker. I wonder if it is possible to do tissue culturing > without this pressure cooker provided I have a microwave and an oven.Can > somebody advice please. ################### From: Johannes.Marabini@t-online.de (Johannes Marabini) Date: Sat, 10 Jan 1998 11:39:39 +0100 Subject: Growing conditions of clipeata Hi Gilles, >Hi Johannes, >Thank you for these precisions, but could you also describe the soil and >humidity conditions in which the plants grow ? >Does siliceous rock means that they grow in sand, or is it sphagnum, and do >they have water running on the roots ? It is hard to say how the conditions have been before the fire there (by the way, I do not believe, that the all the plants have been stolen by collectors, as Clarke write in his book; the end of these plants was the fire). I saw many chared trees and only less protecting Vegetation and no more clipeata. On the right photo of my homepage you have a few over the landsscape near Sintang nearby the location of clipeata. Nep. clipeata grew there in gras and mould on outlets of rock. Siliceous means the kind of rock which Kelam consists of. There was a lot of running water but I don't know if it was running on the roots. I don't think so, because running water will wash all soil down. N.clipeata is easy to grow. A well drained soil ( I use dried clay-pearls, quarzsand = siliceous and peat), not too cold and too hot temperatures (18-30\260Cel.) and a ventilation in summer, this is a good method. My plants are 25 years in culture and flowered several times. Bye Johannes -- Homepage: http://home.t-online.de/home/johannes.marabini@t-online.de/index.htm ################### From: Rand Nicholson Date: Sat, 10 Jan 1998 07:52:18 -0400 Subject: Re: Growing conditions of clipeata Hi Johannes >It is hard to say how the conditions have been before the fire there >(by the way, I do not believe, that the all the plants have been >stolen by collectors, as Clarke write in his book; the end of these >plants was the fire). I saw many chared trees and only less protecting >Vegetation and no more clipeata. On the right photo of my homepage you >have a few over the landsscape near Sintang nearby the location of >clipeata. Nep. clipeata grew there in gras and mould on outlets of >rock. Siliceous means the kind of rock which Kelam consists of. There >was a lot of running water but I don't know if it was running on the >roots. I don't think so, because running water will wash all soil >down. Was this fire that you speak of a natural event? In Canada as, indeed, most of the world in certain biosystems, fire is an event that enables regeneration of endemic flora and fauna (bugs are the first entry into a burn zone). Is it possible that N. clipeata is adapted to, or has an adaptation for, regular or sporadic, fire events? I think of our Canadian plains and prairie grasses and shrubs, or Australia's outback "bush" where fire is a necessity for germination and re-establishment of dormant species, when I ask this question. Perhaps there is no applicable comparison, here? Kind Regards, Rand Rand Nicholson New Brunswick Maritime Canada, Z 5b ################### From: "Ernest Ming" Date: Sat, 10 Jan 1998 12:28:11 -0000 Subject: where can I find Spagnum moss in the U.K? Hi everybody, I am from the U.K and wonder if anybody can give me some idea into which I can get good Spagnum peat moss and Life spagnum from? ################### From: Andrew Bate Date: Sat, 10 Jan 1998 13:48:14 GMT Subject: where can I find Spagnum moss in the U.K? On Sat, 10 Jan 1998 04:45:07 -0800, "Ernest Ming" wrote: >Hi everybody, I am from the U.K and wonder if anybody can give me some = idea >into which I can get good Spagnum peat moss and Life spagnum from? I get my live sphagnum from Marston Exotics near Hereford. It's about 40 mins drive from me and I can't find anywhere else to get it from. Andrew --=20 Andrew Bate andrew@astilla.demon.co.uk http://www.astilla.demon.co.uk ################### From: Johannes.Marabini@t-online.de (Johannes Marabini) Date: Sat, 10 Jan 1998 16:59:29 +0100 Subject: N.clipeata conditions Hi Gilles, >Hi Johannes, >Thank you for these precisions, but could you also describe the soil and >humidity conditions in which the plants grow ? >Does siliceous rock means that they grow in sand, or is it sphagnum, and do >they have water running on the roots ? It is hard to say how the conditions have been before the fire there (by the way, I do not believe, that the all the plants have been stolen by collectors, as Clarke write in his book; the end of these plants was the fire). I saw many chared trees and only less protecting Vegetation and no more clipeata. On the right photo of my homepage you have a few over the landsscape near Sintang nearby the location of clipeata. Nep. clipeata grew there in gras and mould on outlets of rock. Siliceous means the kind of rock which Kelam consists of. There was a lot of running water but I don't know if it was running on the roots. I don't think so, because running water will wash all soil away. N.clipeata is easy to grow. A well drained soil ( I use dried clay-pearls, quarzsand = siliceous and peat), not too cold and too hot temperatures (18-30\260Cel.) and a ventilation in summer, this is a good method. My plants are 25 years in culture and flowered several times. Bye Johannes -- Homepage: http://home.t-online.de/home/johannes.marabini@t-online.de/index.htm ################### From: M & M Date: Sun, 11 Jan 1998 01:10:11 +10 Subject: I need help with T.C Hi Ernest; you can simply fill up your glass bottle (clear beer bottles thoroughly cleaned ok) with agar solution to be sterilised and place it on some cloth in the bottom of a large pot. Fill the pot with water half way up your bottles and simmer for about 75minutes with the lid on the pot. Let everything cool down with the lid still on (will take 3-4 hours to reach room temp.) & presto sterilisation !! !! Goodluck! Mark - OZ ################### From: "Gerrie Buckley" Date: Sat, 10 Jan 1998 21:11:48 +0200 Subject: venus fly trap Dear Mr Green My venus fly trap"s traps don't open after i had to drown it because of the bug. Do you know why this could have happened, Best Wishes Stuart ################### From: Ide Laurent Date: Sat, 10 Jan 1998 20:00:38 +0100 Subject: To Philippe Wauters Hi all Sorry for posting this here, but I'm seeking for a friend (seems his address is definetely out-of-order). So I'll be glad if anyone could help me to contact : PHILIPPE WAUTERS Philippe, si tu lis ces lignes contacte-moi Laurent Ide ################### From: saharris@iafrica.com (Eric Green) Date: Sat, 10 Jan 98 19:40:50 GMT Subject: Drosera sp. "Ceres" South Africa Greetings all, Today Eric Green, Gunther, Kathy and Dieter Eitz and I had a wonderful and successful field trip to the Ceres area, in the moutains NE of Cape Town around Ceres. Our main aim was to find an interesting evergreen Drosera, allied to D. aliciae, and given the field name D. sp. "Ceres". About 10 years ago Gunther Eitz and Thomas Carow (Hi Thomas) undertook fieldwork in this area and discovered this red rosetted Drosera which they recognised as different. Today Gunther refound the site, easily, as it turned out. The sundews, to 4 cm across, have spathulate leaves with retentive glands on the oval lamina only; the broadly triangular petiole is hairless. The leaf undersurface is moderately covered with white hairs. No open flowers were seen today on the slender scapes. This variant is allied to D. aliciae but the leaf shape is a little different (more like that of D. dielsiana), and it is not vigorous for only 3 to 4 leaves of each rosette are ever bedewed and capable of trapping insects. The flower structure has not yet been studied. It grows with D. capensis, U. bisquamata and sphagnum moss. Not far away we had the pleasure of seeing a few plants of Roridula dentata, and, on the edge of a large dam, an abundance of D. capensis and U. bisquamata. In a zone of constant water seepage over rocks D. trinervia rosettes were actively growing. What a brilliant day. Cheers, Robert ################### From: Derek Glidden Date: Sun, 11 Jan 1998 03:18:34 -0500 (EST) Subject: more photos Done scanning, done Photshopping, done writing. I've put up some more pages with photos of my recent trip to a bog in Orlando, FL. I've made it more of a narrative this time, so be warned if you're just looking for pictures. (Although I think it's nice to read, anyway. :) There are some interesting things in these new pages: photos of a very variable D.capillaris or maybe there are hybrids there? An unidentified Utricularia! One, maybe two species of Pinguicula, you tell me. There's even a frog and a turtle! What more could you want? http://www.illusionary.com/~dglidden/cp/ Once again, feedback is requested and appreciated. -=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-= Derek Glidden http://www.illusionary.com Illusionary.com Home of the Pagan Resource Site Web development, database, graphics and general plumbing Linux, FreeBSD, Apache, MySQL, PostgreSQL, PHP (Say No to NT!) ################### From: Johannes.Marabini@t-online.de (Johannes Marabini) Date: Sun, 11 Jan 1998 10:34:00 +0100 Subject: Re:N.clipeata fire Hi, sorry for mailing my comment twice! Hi Rand, < Was this fire that you speak of a natural event? I don't think so. I believe there was the same reason as this year: El Ninio! In 1983 was a very strong El Ninio and thousands of square miles burned down. The fire at Kelam was later. But the reason was - so I think - the same: the natives there burned the rainforest for agriculture. I also don't believe that clipeata is adapted to fire. You can compare this case with the destiny of Nepenthes campanulata: died out by a fire. So I often think about CITES-regulations on the one hand and destroying of natural living space of carnivorous plants on the other hand. No protection by law will help to stop the dieing out of species, if the locations will be destroyed by sattlement, new roads or mining of natural resorces (including trees). In my opinion N. clipeata is not the last carnivorous plant, which will die out in the next time. Johannes -- Homepage: http://home.t-online.de/home/johannes.marabini@t-online.de/index.htm ################### From: Rand Nicholson Date: Sun, 11 Jan 1998 08:29:48 -0400 Subject: Re:N.clipeata fire >Hi Rand, > >< Was this fire that you speak of a natural event? > >I don't think so. I believe there was the same reason as this year: El >Ninio! In 1983 was a very strong El Ninio and thousands of square >miles burned down. The fire at Kelam was later. But the reason was - >so I think - the same: the natives there burned the rainforest for >agriculture. I also don't believe that clipeata is adapted to fire. >You can compare this case with the destiny of Nepenthes campanulata: >died out by a fire. > >So I often think about CITES-regulations on the one hand and >destroying of natural living space of carnivorous plants on the other >hand. No protection by law will help to stop the dieing out of >species, if the locations will be destroyed by sattlement, new roads I have often railed against the indiscriminate stupidity of CITES as it now stands. It is so loose and open to interpretation (_not_ a unifying policy of standards) that it is unworkable. Designed to protect and preserve, it instead insures that many rare and endangered plants will find no sanctuary in the gardens, greenhouses and homes of what is (in my opinion) becoming one of the last bastions of preservation of species; the amateur grower, or hobbyist. These people should be recognized for what they are: An amazing resource with untapped potential. Under CITES they are often treated as pests, no matter what their credentials. There are private unsubsidized collections that have plants that can be found nowhere else in the world, because their habitats no longer exist; much for the same reasons that you describe above. >or mining of natural resorces (including trees). In my opinion N. >clipeata is not the last carnivorous plant, which will die out in the >next time. > >Johannes Reluctantly, I must agree with you. A sobering thought. Kind Regards, Rand Rand Nicholson New Brunswick Maritime Canada, Z 5b ################### From: "Ernest Ming" Date: Sun, 11 Jan 1998 13:03:00 -0000 Subject: Use of vermiculi According to some people you could use sand and vermiculi to aerate the soil composition whilst the vermculi could retain some water.Is this vermiculi made from rice?if so would it not induce the growth of moulds? can somebody tell me please. Ernest. ################### From: Rand Nicholson Date: Sun, 11 Jan 1998 10:36:49 -0400 Subject: Re: Use of vermiculi >According to some people you could use sand and vermiculi to aerate the >soil composition whilst the vermculi could retain some water.Is this >vermiculi made from rice?if so would it not induce the growth of moulds? >can somebody tell me please. > >Ernest. Vermiculite is made from a mineral and, as such, _initally_ is not prone to fungus or molds. The downside is that the stuff degenerates and compacts after a few months and is a great host to algae and other slimes, eventually degrading the quality of the medium (in _my_ experience) that you use for CPs. I avoid the stuff, entirely, for any kind of plants. As a suggestion, try substituting equal amounts of perlite and milled (brown) peat for the amount of vermiculite that you use when you make up your planting medium. Incorporated with sand, I find this an excellent medium for growing Cephalotus. Kind Regards, Rand Rand Nicholson New Brunswick Maritime Canada, Z 5b ################### From: Randall Palmer Date: Sun, 11 Jan 1998 13:23:07 -0500 (EST) Subject: Re: CP Stuart Malathyon for bugs. if Venus leaves turn black, to much water. In Winter water enough to keep soil moist but don't keep a dish under to keep it standing in water. If you have seen the plants in the little cups in the store, there is somthing to that little clear plastic cup on top, for reasons the cup top keeps humidity right for plant and keep the wind from drying out the trap. Kill a fly or two tape the top off and put in trap. Either that or move to North Carolina, or the Pan-Handle of Florida. (thats take the top off not tape) Randy Palmer sfdzeqe0@scfn.thpl.lib.fl.us ################### From: Volvo 850R Date: Sun, 11 Jan 1998 12:30:28 -0800 Subject: Nepenthes I use a soil substrate of orchid bark, charcoal, peat, sand, perlite. Is this OK? Thanks ################### From: "Zachary Kaufman" Date: Sun, 11 Jan 1998 17:23:15 PST Subject: Sarracenia growth habits in the wild Hi. For those of you that have seen Sarracenia growing in the wild[Carl, Tom, Dave, Peter, etc.], can you tell me how often their roots penetrate down into the waterline? I am looking at using a Rubbermaid 150 gallon plastic livestock watering trough as a giant pot/bog. The watering trough is oval at the top roughly 5 feet by 3 feet by 2 feet deep. Currently I grow all my Sarracenias in pots sitting in standing water. They have flourished under these conditions despite our low [as compared to their native habitat] humidity in the summer. I am concerned that if I transplant the Sarracenia into the watering trough, I will not be able to safely raise the waterline to the plants's roots. [Having a foot or more of peat constantly submerged underwater would lead to anaerobic conditions.] As it stands now, in the summer the waterline drops substantially during the course of a day on the Sarracenia pots. By the evening most of the potting media is getting oxygen. This sharp daily waterline fluctuation would not occur with the watering trough setup I envision. The volume of water stored is just too great. Why mess with what works already, one might ask. During the summer I have to add water daily to the multitude of Rubbermaid dish pans the Sarracenia sit in. During the winter I have to bail out the dish pans after every rain storm for my plants submerge rapidly. In the Spring I have to repot everything to accomodate the new growth. I now longer have the free time to continue with this practice. I also can't afford to leave town for any length of time. Before embarking on this endevour, I need to get some kind of idea how much extra benefit Sarracenias get having their roots reach into the waterline in hot dryish weather as opposed to growing in just moist to wet conditions in similar circumstances. I also could use input on how well peat/perlite mixes wick up water. [There might be a foot to a foot and a half of peat/perlite mix between the waterline and the surface of the watering trough. Might the bottom of the media be sopping wet while the top is bone dry?] I am looking for insight and opinions before I take the plunge and do this. No one will be held at all acountable for any bad advice. Any sort of relevant experience would be much appreciated. Thanks a lot, --Zachary-- e-mail: zkaufman@hotmail.com P.S. The watering trough is designed to sit entirely above ground. It would basically be a massive pot. ______________________________________________________ Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com ################### From: aquilla2@juno.com (Michael A Sankovich) Date: Sun, 11 Jan 1998 23:36:14 -0500 Subject: Rubbermaid tubs Zachary, I have used rubbermaid stock watering tanks for about 8 years. I have used the 50 and 100 gallon sizes. Of the two I prefer the 50 gallon size. I fill them with a 50-50 pete sand mixture, and build wooden trucks with castors for wheeling them around. I have found that the 100 gal size used about 6 cubic feet of peat. with the depth anaerobic conditions develop and it seems a big waste of peat. However the 50 gallon size works really well. Both have the same surface area. I currently have one with six different clumps of Sarracenias in it. They are growing in live sphagnum moss and through a matrix of cranberry vines. The water levels fluctuate with rainfall and evaporation. I can usually push my hand down between the moss and the sides to check the moisture level, and water accordingly. Standing water has never seemed to bother them. they all flower and produce seed. This year I was even able to harvest cranberries for the first time. In the past I have wheeled them to an enclosed unheated porch for the winter, and yes they have even frozen with no ill effects. This winter I have decided to cover one with plastic and place in an unheated garage,(filtered light) which has the potential for longer and harder freezes. Wish me luck as I have had this tub for 6 years. So far we have had a mild winter here in the north eastern U.S. My other potted plants will spend the winter in standing water outdoors at the mercy of the elements and I will just wait till spring and see what happens. I have also built an in the ground rubber lined seepage bog with a water collection sump in the bottom and pump the water to the other end for 15 minutes of every hour, every day. This never has the chance to go anaerobic. and is doing well into it's 3rd winter. It measures 3ft X 16 ft and 18 in deep. I hope that I have been of some assistance to you . Any questions can be directed to me at my Email address. Michael A Sankovich >I am looking at using a Rubbermaid 150 gallon plastic livestock >watering trough as a giant pot/bog. The watering trough is oval at >the top roughly 5 feet by 3 feet by 2 feet deep. Currently I grow all >my Sarracenias in pots sitting in standing water. They have >flourished under these conditions despite our low [as compared to >their native habitat] humidity in the summer. I am concerned that if >I transplant the Sarracenia into the watering trough, I will not be >able to safely raise the waterline to the plants's roots. [Having >a foot or more of peat constantly submerged underwater would lead to >anaerobic conditions.] As it stands now, in the summer the waterline >drops substantially during the course of a day on the Sarracenia pots. >By the evening most of the potting media is getting oxygen. This >sharp daily waterline fluctuation would not occur with the watering >trough setup I envision. The volume of water stored is just too >great. > >Why mess with what works already, one might ask. During the summer >I have to add water daily to the multitude of Rubbermaid dish pans >the Sarracenia sit in. During the winter I have to bail out the >dish pans after every rain storm for my plants submerge rapidly. >In the Spring I have to repot everything to accomodate the new >growth. I now longer have the free time to continue with this >practice. I also can't afford to leave town for any length of time. > >Before embarking on this endevour, I need to get some kind of idea >how much extra benefit Sarracenias get having their roots >reach into the waterline in hot dryish weather as opposed to growing >in just moist to wet conditions in similar circumstances. I also >could use input on how well peat/perlite mixes wick up water. [There >might be a foot to a foot and a half of peat/perlite mix between the >waterline and the surface of the watering trough. Might the bottom of >the media be sopping wet while the top is bone dry?] > >I am looking for insight and opinions before I take the plunge and do >this. No one will be held at all acountable for any bad advice. Any >sort of relevant experience would be much appreciated. > >Thanks a lot, >--Zachary-- >e-mail: zkaufman@hotmail.com > >P.S. The watering trough is designed to sit entirely above ground. > It would basically be a massive pot. > > > > >______________________________________________________ >Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com > >------------------------------ > >End of CP Digest 1324 >********************* > ################### From: "the drake" Date: Sun, 11 Jan 1998 22:58:20 -0700 Subject: CAMBRIAN CARNIVORES WHAT IS GOING ON WITH CAMBRIAN CARNIVORES???? ANYBODY OUT THERE KNOW? PLEASE SOMEBODY RESPOND. THANKS drake Free web-based email, Forever, From anywhere! http://www.mailexcite.com ################### From: Guy.VanDerKinderen@rug.ac.be Date: Mon, 12 Jan 1998 08:51:32 +0000 Subject: Re:sphagnum moss Dear Eric, I saw that you still needed some explaining about sphagnum. Here's some information. > Can someone tell me what the difference between moss and sphagnum moss? Sphagnum itself is a genus of mosses (Bryophyta); there are several species, some of which may be cosmopolytic. > Is the sphagnum moss in Canada differente of this in France for example? No. There is indeed some difference between the species and the appearance may be influenced by the growing site, although in nature, all of them have their own niche. For instance, S. compactum grows, as its name indicates, very compact to the substratum, while S. squarrosum is a long and leggy growing species. > The plants I bought in my garden center have no moss!! and It is drying > quite quick. I don't know which plants you are dealing with here, but normally CP do not really need sphagnum, although they may grow better in it. Maybe something else is wrong with your plants. > I thought use the moss which growing all the year under the christmas trees > in my garden (Framce). This moss grows very vigorous under the trees. It > is like a cushion 2 cm depth and It propagates with creeping extension. I > think this moss is used to create flowers decoration. Since Sphagnum mosses exclusively grow in wet, nutrient-poor and acid conditions (bogs), I do not think your moss is Sphagnum. According to the description you give, it may be a Rhythidiadelphus species which indeed is very often used in flower arrangements. It has not the typical properties as Sphagnum, such as water-uptake, and very important: its aseptic properties (that is live moss!). > Is it wrong if I m going to use it? It may be usefull for certain plants, but I would advise to not use it as a replacement for Sphagnum. Kind regards, Guy VdK ################### From: dmjoel@netvision.net.il (Daniel M. Joel) Date: Mon, 12 Jan 1998 12:04:10 +0200 (IST) Subject: Sarracenia roots Hi Zachary. >For those of you that have seen Sarracenia growing in the wild[Carl, >Tom, Dave, Peter, etc.], can you tell me how often their roots penetrate >down into the waterline? A Sarracenia hybrid (probably purpurea X flava) grows on our kitchen window, now for two years. The pot lies in a big mug that is daily filled with water. The roots penetrated the water, and seem to develop happily there (I inspect the roots everyday when adding water). Is that the sort of relevant experience that you were looking for? Danny from Israel ################### From: Wim Leys Date: Mon, 12 Jan 1998 13:01:32 +0100 Subject: Anthocyanin free Darlingtonia - nomenclature Dear Barry, I have received the three seed mixtures coming from the location of the anthocyanin free Darlingtonia's (from the UK CPS). In your article in the ICPN Newsletter you write that you discovered the differences between the normal and the variant Darlingtonia's by means of the (lack of) coloration of the flowers. I am willing to support the scientific experiment you have set up. When will I be able to differentiate between the normal and the variant Darlingtonia's ? Will that be in about 5 years when the plants start flowering, or can it be done earlier, by looking at growing shoots, pitcher coloration, ... ? You write that you "do not want to see that invalid name [Darlingtonia californica F. heterophylla] thrown around by growers!". Can you tell me why this would be invalid and when one can speak (nomenclatury correct) of a subspecie, form, ... Kind regards Wim ################### From: SCHLAUER@chemie.uni-wuerzburg.de Date: Mon, 12 Jan 1998 14:00:04 Subject: Re: Anthocyanin free Darlingtonia - nomenclature Dear Wim, Barry has had some email problems recently, but possibly I can comment on some of your questions: > You write that you "do not want to see that invalid name [Darlingtonia > californica F. heterophylla] thrown around by growers!". Can you tell me > why this would be invalid and when one can speak (nomenclatury correct) > of a subspecie, form, ... As you will probably know (but perhaps there are some listeners who would like to read this as well), there are principally two different aspects in a scientific plant name: taxonomy and nomenclature. Taxonomy is the process of grouping organisms into mutually exclusive entities (taxa). Nomenclature is the process of naming these entities correctly. The rules (International Code of Botanical Nomenclature) apply only to the latter process. Any name published according to these formal rules is *valid* (or "nomenclaturally correct"). This does *NOT* mean that this name has to be *accepted* (or "taxonomically correct") by all authors. There are in fact a lot of valid names that are nevertheless considered (taxonomic) synonyms of other names by at least some authors. The problem with the white _Darlingtonia_ is its not yet established taxonomic status. Perhaps some people think it should be segregated from the normal (anthocyanin-containing) plants, and others do not. If it is to be segregated, the rank (form, variety, subspecies) has to be determined at which it should be separated. While the rank may not matter much in taxonomy (as long as the relative limits of the groups are clear; in our case _D. californica_ as a species would clearly include the white plants at some rank below species), it is quite essential for nomenclature (any newly described taxon must have a clearly stated rank). There are some people (incl. myself) who think that a taxon at whatever rank must have some evolutionary meaning (i.e. represent an adaptation to environmental factors). In a complicated biosynthesis like for anthocyanins, there are plenty of possibilities for mutations to preclude formation of the final metabolite. Still, an anthocyanin- free plant does survive because its primary metabolism is not or only marginally affected by the defect. Only after generations (if at all), the different colouration of the flowers will lead to decreased cross-fertilization, i.e. to genetical drift, i.e. potentially to the elimination of such mutants from a population. In the meanwhile other mutants may appear that have the same phenotype (even if the mutation occurred in another gene of the same pathway). This may even lead to a +/- constant percentage of white plants within normal populations. I therefore maintain that anthocyanin albinos (which are known in almost any anthocyanin-containing species) do *not* have any taxonomic relevance, as long as they do not constitute separated populations that behave ecologically and chorologically independently from their ancestral taxon. They can be of horticultural value, but this is no taxonomic issue. Kind regards Jan ################### From: Oliver T Massey CFS Date: Mon, 12 Jan 1998 09:37:50 -0500 (EST) Subject: Re: Sarracenia growth habits in the wild > Hi. > > For those of you that have seen Sarracenia growing in the wild[Carl, > Tom, Dave, Peter, etc.], can you tell me how often their roots penetrate > down into the waterline? In the wild you see a lot of variety. However, my experiences suggest that for the most part the plants are definitely "waterlogged". In many cases the waterline is only about two or three inches below the surface, and of course in the Okefenokee swamp, S. minor and S. psittacina are just about aquatic (well okay, not quite). Your experiences (cut for brevity's sake) with sitting Sarrs. in water are similar to mine and other growers - the quality of the plants is great but it gets to be a real pain. The good news is that plenty of people have very good results using the approach you want to use. Begin with good quality materials, - be careful of the kind of peat you use - and get it good and wet. I'm not even sure you need perlite, I would probably use a peat/sand mixture. Someone else should comment on this. Then be prepared to spend all your time weeding out all the grass, dandelions, oak tree sprouts, etc. etc. that find their way into your pristine bog. You don't get out of any of the work, the tasks just change! Tom in Fl > Thanks a lot, > --Zachary-- > e-mail: zkaufman@hotmail.com ################### From: Barry Meyers-Rice Date: Mon, 12 Jan 1998 09:57:49 -0800 (PST) Subject: Re: Anthocyanin free Darlingtonia - nomenclature Wim, You asked me when you will be able to detect the difference between the normal (anthocyanin-containing) and variant (anthocyanin-free) Darlingtonia. I have a lot of experience with Sarracenia, and think I would be able to detect the difference in seedling plants (a year or so old). Look for lime-green coloration in the variant plants, while the growing points of the normal plants (apical meristem area) will be blushed with red or pink. > You write that you "do not want to see that invalid name [Darlingtonia > californica F. heterophylla] thrown around by growers!". Can you tell me > why this would be invalid and when one can speak (nomenclatury correct) > of a subspecie, form, ... If and when this plant is formally described in a botanical journal, it can be given a name like Darlingtonia californica f. luteola or something like that. Because an anthocyanin-free variant of Sarracenia purpurea subsp. purpurea has been botanically described as f. heterophylla, some CP enthusiasts add "f. heterophylla" onto any anthocyanin-free variant. This is incorrect. Cheers Barry ------------------------ Dr. Barry A. Meyers-Rice Carnivorous Plant Newsletter Conservation Coeditor bazza@ucdavis.edu http://www.indirect.com/www/bazza/cps/cpn/cpn.html ################### From: Joe Harden Date: Mon, 12 Jan 1998 16:08:57 -0600 Subject: Scanning! I have already helped someone out...and I am offering the same to anyone else --- If you have some photos you want scanned (.jpg, .bmp, etc etc) I will be happy to do so. I have a scanner here at work...and whenever it gets slow, I need something to do :) Email me if you're interested. Joe Harden jharden@txdirect.net ################### From: "Kamil Pasek" Date: Mon, 12 Jan 1998 23:32:50 +0100 Subject: Gemmae free I have a lot of gemmae of this pygmies: D.dichrosepala (limited) D.manni D.microscapa D.nitidula ssp. omissa x D. pulchlella D.pulchella Orange Flower D.pulchella Pink Flower D.pulchella White Flower, Red Centre D.roseana D. sp. Lake Badgerup I will send this species everyone free - only for postage and package - $6 for each parcel. If you are interested in something write me please your concrete request. Happy growing, Kamil _____________________________________________________ Kamil Pasek, L. Podeste 1871, 70800 Ostrava 8, Czech Republic e. mail : kamil.pasek@usa.net, adela.revue@post.cz _____________________________________________________ ################### From: Ernest Ming Date: Mon, 12 Jan 1998 22:15:10 -0000 Subject: cambrian carnivores unknown query Hi there, could somebody tell me how I can contact the staff in Cambrian carnivores in U.K? I have trouble querying through email cause I never get a reply. telephone number? fax number? please tell me if you know, thanx a lot, Ernie ################### From: jaldr@onramp.net (James Aldridge) Date: Tue, 13 Jan 1998 01:15:03 GMT Subject: Re: Gemmae free On Mon, 12 Jan 1998 14:24:01 -0800, you wrote: >I have a lot of gemmae of this pygmies: >If you are interested in something write me please your concrete >request. Kamil, We could use to expand our school collection in this area. We would be interested in gennae of all of these plants. Tell me what I need to do to= send you the necessary payment if the plants are still available. Thank you for making the offer. Dr. James Aldridge =46ort Worth Country Day School 4200 Country Day Lane =46ort Worth, Texas 76109 USA 817-732-6631 James Aldridge, Ph.D. - jaldr@onramp.net OR jaldr@fwcds.pvt.tenet.edu =46ort Worth Country Day School =46ort Worth, TX USA ################### From: "C. J. Mazur" Date: Mon, 12 Jan 1998 22:45:14 -0500 Subject: Re: Sarracenia growth habits in the wild >Hi. > >For those of you that have seen Sarracenia growing in the wild[Carl, >Tom, Dave, Peter, etc.], can you tell me how often their roots penetrate >down into the waterline? It all depends on the plants your are looking at, the time of year and where they are growing. I've seen psittacina growing about 8 inches below water level in the summer and also growing, floating on the surface of 2 foot deep pond. I've also seen minor growing in places that looked so dry, that you'd never imaging it would support a wetland plant! I can't say I've ever dug a hole to see where the actual water table exists in any bogs, however, I'd guess that a least the tipps of the roots have access to the water table most of the time. >Best Regards, Carl J. Mazur Cherryhill Carnivorous Plants Ontario Canada http://www.vaxxine.com/ccphome ################### From: "the drake" Date: Mon, 12 Jan 1998 21:11:17 -0700 Subject: Re: cambrian carnivores unknown query >Hi there, could somebody tell me how I can contact the staff in Cambrian >carnivores in U.K? >I have trouble querying through email cause I never get a reply. >telephone number? fax number? >please tell me if you know, > >thanx a lot, > >Ernie > Ernie, I have had the same problem. I sent a money order and cannot get my money back unless Cambrian Carnivores sends me back my money order. I have sent email numerous times, posted to this list numerous times, and last week sent postal mail to them telling them to cancel my order and send my money order back to me. I sent the order to them in December. I once purchased something from them before and I was pleased with my order, but now I need that money back and I cannot reach them! Anybody out there who can help? PLEASE SOMEBODY RESPOND! thanks drakeofusa@mailexcite.com Free web-based email, Forever, From anywhere! http://www.mailexcite.com ################### From: Volvo 850R Date: Mon, 12 Jan 1998 23:47:51 -0800 Subject: MAD CUSTOMERS James and Patricia Pietropolo and employees, I am a young, 15 year old carnivorous plant (mainly Nepenthes) enthusiast. I currently have: N. ampullaria (Cantley's red) N. lowii N. inermis N. ventricosa N. rajah Some sarracenia's and Droseras. I get my friends and relatives into buying and liking this wonderful hobby, but I NEVER show them your useless, rip-off, list! Your Nepenthes are unbelievable rip-offs! Those are the most common species available, and you're selling them for $27.95? That's BS! I can get that Shit for 7.50 each! Awhile back when I just began to like Carnivorous plants, I ordered a Darlingtonia Californica from you for $6.95 (I was stupid to buy from you). It arrived with only 1 wilted pitcher. I was fuckin' mad. From that day on, I never told anyone about your list and I even have my own homepage that tells CP hobbyists to not buy from a rip-off bullshit operated couple. (MIND MY LANGUAGE, when I get mad) Here are some sites that your FUCKIN' employees and you 2 should check out! www.indirect.com/www/bazza/cps/pp.html (YOU BETTER CHECK THIS PAGE OUT) -After I read it, I thought, it's a black-hearted couple that's trying to gyp customers. OTHER WEBSITES DON'T EVEN HAVE YOU GUYS LISTED!!!!! Here is what some unhappy customers said on that page: -One guy stated that Peter wanted a buyer to "MASS RAPE" the land since he was going to the native Sarracenia habitat and buy them for a lousy. .50 each! -He gets "suckers" to pick plants for him from the wild! -One guy ordered a PRICEY Rafflesiana, but it turned out to be a hybrid that only a "mother could love!" -One guy ordered a bushel of live sphagnum moss and they said it would be sent out tomorrow. They said, "NO PROBLEM" The person was only 200km from PETER PAUL'S, so postage should be quick. 2 WEEKS later and STILL haven't received moss. After 2 whole months, it arrives with bugs, stick, and berries. ....once bitten, twice shy.... -Many bad stories about this guy (Jam, and Pat) -MANY PEOPLE SUGGEST NOT TO BUY FROM HIM!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! -Your a crook. -Everyone else, please tell friends and family members to not buy from this guy. He's no good. Don't believe me? Check out the site yourself. A fuck of a guy ################### From: Volvo 850R Date: Tue, 13 Jan 1998 00:03:48 -0800 Subject: Re: MAD CUSTOMERS Volvo 850R wrote more: (13 total Nepenthes reared) > > James and Patricia Pietropolo and employees, > > I am a young, 15 year old carnivorous plant (mainly Nepenthes) > enthusiast. I currently have: > N. ampullaria (Cantley's red) > N. lowii > N. inermis > N. ventricosa > N. rajah N. other species > Some sarracenia's and Droseras. > > I get my friends and relatives into buying and liking this wonderful > hobby, but I NEVER show them your useless, rip-off, list! Your Nepenthes > are unbelievable rip-offs! Those are the most common species available, > and you're selling them for $27.95? That's BS! I can get that Shit for > 7.50 each! > Awhile back when I just began to like Carnivorous plants, I ordered > a Darlingtonia Californica from you for $6.95 (I was stupid to buy from > you). It arrived with only 1 wilted pitcher. I was fuckin' mad. From > that day on, I never told anyone about your list and I even have my own > homepage that tells CP hobbyists to not buy from a rip-off bullshit > operated couple. (MIND MY LANGUAGE, when I get mad) > > Here are some sites that your FUCKIN' employees and you 2 should check > out! > > www.indirect.com/www/bazza/cps/pp.html (YOU BETTER CHECK THIS PAGE OUT) > > -After I read it, I thought, it's a black-hearted couple that's trying > to gyp customers. OTHER WEBSITES DON'T EVEN HAVE YOU GUYS LISTED!!!!! > > Here is what some unhappy customers said on that page: > -One guy stated that Peter wanted a buyer to "MASS RAPE" the land since > he was going to the native Sarracenia habitat and buy them for a lousy. > .50 each! > -He gets "suckers" to pick plants for him from the wild! > -One guy ordered a PRICEY Rafflesiana, but it turned out to be a hybrid > that only a "mother could love!" > -One guy ordered a bushel of live sphagnum moss and they said it would > be sent out tomorrow. They said, "NO PROBLEM" The person was only 200km > from PETER PAUL'S, so postage should be quick. 2 WEEKS later and STILL > haven't received moss. After 2 whole months, it arrives with bugs, > stick, and berries. ....once bitten, twice shy.... > -Many bad stories about this guy (Jam, and Pat) > -MANY PEOPLE SUGGEST NOT TO BUY FROM HIM!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! > > -Your a crook. > -Everyone else, please tell friends and family members to not buy from > this guy. He's no good. Don't believe me? Check out the site yourself. > > From: > A fuck of a guy I myself have 13 species of NEPENTHES NOT BOUGHT FROM YOU!!!! ################### From: "Neal Nagata" Date: Tue, 13 Jan 1998 00:15:54 PST Subject: Live Sphagnum Moss - Purchase of hiya all, I am looking to purchase some live sphagnum moss for my cp this season. the only place i know that i can get it is, Peter Pauls Nurseries.. The price is rather steep and after shipping it is not worth it. Does anyone know of any other suppliers? or does anyone have any moss they can sell? Also I have lost my addresses for: Lee's botanical Gardens and orgel's orchids Does anyone have these addresses? okay that's it Thanks in advance, Neal Nagata, Jr. ______________________________________________________ Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com ################### From: Date: Tue, 13 Jan 1998 09:16:32 +0100 Subject: I'm looking for Heliamphora's pollen Hi all, my Heliamphora heterodoxa will be blooming at first. I'm looking for fresh pollen from arbitrary Heliamphora species for my H.heterodoxa. As soon as my H.heterodoxa will bloom, I can send pollen on request. How long is Heliamphora's pollen live? Thank you. Jan Jan FLISEK Roznovska 342 Frenstat p.R. CZ-744 01 Czech republic ################### From: prion@abdn.ac.uk (Prion Gwyn) Date: Tue, 13 Jan 1998 08:10:51 -0800 Subject: Cambrian Carnivores To all who are concerned, I am reliably informed that Peter Cole, owner of Cambrian Carnivores has been in hospital of late and is recovering from illness. It would be resonable to expect therefore that his orders are not of prime concern, more like keeping his collection afloat... Give the guy a break for now especially if you have been happy with his plants and service in the past. Could anyone direct me to a list of CP nurseries in the UK, mine is rather dated. And could 'Volvo 850R' bloke remember that although his comments concerning plants and supplies bought from a well known plantsman MAY well be justified. There are young kids about and there is no need to get yourself barred over some overheated 'comments'. All the best and good growing Prion Gwyn Aberdeen Scotland UK ################### From: "Ernest Ming" Date: Tue, 13 Jan 1998 09:16:43 -0000 Subject: sarracenia nursery - the whereabouts of.. hi there, does anybody know where sarracenia nursery is in the U.K situated around Mill Hill and Burnt Oak? if so could you please write to me as I need their address or telephone or fax. Thankyou Ernest ################### From: jaldr@onramp.net (James Aldridge) Date: Tue, 13 Jan 1998 13:01:22 GMT Subject: Re: Gemmae free >We could use to expand our school collection in this area. Sorry for sending this to list. Wrong button! Jim James Aldridge, Ph.D. - jaldr@onramp.net OR jaldr@fwcds.pvt.tenet.edu =46ort Worth Country Day School =46ort Worth, TX USA ################### From: jaldr@onramp.net (James Aldridge) Date: Tue, 13 Jan 1998 13:05:00 GMT Subject: Re: MAD CUSTOMERS > Here are some sites that your ****IN' employees and you 2 should check This language is inappropriate *everywhere*. Please omit it from = messages. James Aldridge, Ph.D. - jaldr@onramp.net OR jaldr@fwcds.pvt.tenet.edu =46ort Worth Country Day School =46ort Worth, TX USA ################### From: BREWER_CHARLES@ecomail.damneck.navy.mil Date: Tue, 13 Jan 1998 08:30:03 -0500 Subject: Re: Live Sphagnum Moss - Purchase of Neal, I sell live sphagnum moss. If interested, contact me privately. Thanks, Charles Brewer I am looking to purchase some live sphagnum moss for my cp this season. the only place i know that i can get it is, Peter Pauls Nurseries.. The price is rather steep and after shipping it is not worth it. Does anyone know of any other suppliers? or does anyone have any moss they can sell? Also I have lost my addresses for: Lee's botanical Gardens and orgel's orchids Does anyone have these addresses? ################### From: -Tom- Date: Tue, 13 Jan 1998 10:09:38 -0500 (EST) Subject: Re: Sarracenia growth habits in the wild Zachary, >For those of you that have seen Sarracenia growing in the wild[Carl, >Tom, Dave, Peter, etc.], can you tell me how often their roots penetrate >down into the waterline? >From my personal experience, I would say that the best plants always seem to be the ones with wet feet. Carl Mazur mentioned S. minor growing in very dry areas. This is true, but if you think about it, the best S. minor are the ones in the Okefenokee where they.....drum rolll.... Float over water! The ones outside the swamp survive while the wet ones thrive. >growth. I now longer have the free time to continue with this >practice. I also can't afford to leave town for any length of time. Sort of makes you feel like a parent, doesn't it? >Before embarking on this endevour, I need to get some kind of idea >how much extra benefit Sarracenias get having their roots >reach into the waterline in hot dryish weather as opposed to growing >in just moist to wet conditions in similar circumstances. I also The plants really love the root room. In two years your plants will look better than you have ever seen them! >could use input on how well peat/perlite mixes wick up water. [There >might be a foot to a foot and a half of peat/perlite mix between the >waterline and the surface of the watering trough. Might the bottom of >the media be sopping wet while the top is bone dry?] Dave & I skip the pearlite in our bogs and NEVER have a problem with the top drying out. We have about 60% peat and 40% sand. The water just wicks throughout the peat and you shouldn't have a problem. You might want to drill several holes an inch or so below the surface to help keep the crows above the water table, in case you have a lot of rain. >Then be prepared to spend all your time weeding out all the grass, >dandelions, oak tree sprouts, etc. etc. that find their way into your >pristine bog. You don't get out of any of the work, the tasks just >change! This definitely becomes a problem..... but I would much rather weed a bog once in a while, as compared to watering all your trays, every day :) To see a photo of one of the bogs, please visit my web page and look at the section on how I grow my plants. Take care & keep on growing, Thomas K. Hayes DANGEROUS PLANTS dangerous_plants@hotmail.com tkhayes@mail.microserve.net http://www.infinicom.com/~thayes ################### From: j sullivan Date: Tue, 13 Jan 1998 10:15:46 -0800 Subject: Greetings, questions and comment Hello all! Just subscribed, so this is my first posting. I've been interested in cps for many years and have a modest corner of my library devoted to the subject (5 volumes on cps, many more of plant biochemistry, classification, etc.). I live in NJ and am very involved with the cactus & succulent hobby at the moment and plan to erect a greenhouse this spring. I think this would be a great chance to study cp biology. I am a chemist and have always been interested in the interelationship between between chemicals and living things, as in chemical communications between species. Not being current on the cp literature, could anyone comment on the presence (or lack) of chemical attractants in cps, such as aromatic plant volatiles, nectars, etc.? Lit. references would be appreciated, if available. I'm also curious about the apparently ongoing debate concerning the taxonomic and nomenclaturial implications of anthocyanin + and - forms of the same plant. Isn't this sort of thing usually considered a sport or result of inbreeding resulting in an apparently stable but inducable genetic trait? The biosynthesis of the anthocyanins is catalyzed by only a few enzymes (and hence a few genes, perhaps under the overall control of a single gene). Anthocyanin production can also be affected by environmental factors by as much as 50% (see Ref. p. 382). It has been demonstrated that anthocyanins can be produced in tissue culture, another field of interest of mine. I would be interested in learning of references where these non-pigmented plants have been studied in tissue culture under more controlled conditions than they might get in the field. Quoting the reference (p. 387), "One of the most striking examples is the is Machaeranthera gracilis, which produces relatively large amounts (usually 3% dry weight) of the 3-glucoside and 3-rutinoside of cyanidin in cultured cells. It is remarkable that the plant from which these cultures are derived shows no signs of anthocyanine colour in normal growth." REF: Encyclopedia of Plant Physiology, New Series, vol. 8, "Secondary Plant Products," ed. Bell & Chartwood (Springer 1980) I would also like to hear from cp enthusiasts in the NYC-Phila. metroplex area. (I live midway between the two). Jack ################### From: BREWER_CHARLES@ecomail.damneck.navy.mil Date: Tue, 13 Jan 1998 10:29:54 -0500 Subject: Re: MAD CUSTOMERS Volva 850R, Although you may be MAD over your resent purchase from Peter Paul Nursery, Please direct your filthy comments directly to him. This is a family channel which does not care to read such trash. You have the right not to purchase plants from his nursery, I suggest you exercise this given right. In closing, I suggest you be very careful on what you are accusing Peter of doing. Be it true or false, your comments could easily come back and hunt you financially. Just a friendly suggestion I am a young, 15 year old carnivorous plant (mainly Nepenthes) enthusiast. I get my friends and relatives into buying and liking this wonderful hobby, but I NEVER show them your useless, rip-off, list! ################### From: Wim Leys Date: Tue, 13 Jan 1998 17:45:08 +0100 Subject: Re: Anthocyanin free Darlingtonia - nomenclature > The rules (International Code of Botanical Nomenclature) apply only > ....... > (any newly described taxon must have > a clearly stated rank). > Thank you for your explanation. > There are some people (incl. myself) who think that a taxon at > whatever rank must have some evolutionary meaning (i.e. represent an > adaptation to environmental factors). In a complicated biosynthesis > ... > So you are not in favour of the name "S. purpurea purpurea f. heterophylla" neither, unless of course the lack of anthocyanin would give this plant a certain benefit. I did notice with Dionaea that greener plants grow bigger than the redder ones. Kind regards Wim ################### From: dalford@norfolk.infi.net Date: Tue, 13 Jan 1998 22:28:33 -0500 Subject: Styrofoam peanuts Hello all I have been lurking in the background of this group for about a year now. Until now I didn't think I had anything to contribute to the group. As a long time orchid grower and somewhat of a newbie to the cp's I have just sat back and learned from the more experienced and knowledgeable among you. But now I would like to add my 2cents worth on the styro peanut issue from first hand experience. About 4 years ago I came into a large quantity of what I call figure 8 peanuts they have two holes through them and they are 'GREEN'. I gleefully used these in the place of the white ones I had been using to crock the bottoms of all of my orchid pots for increased drainage (as well as reducing the amount of potting media required). In the past the roots kept right on growing right on thru the peanuts with no ill effects. After about 6 months some of the plants started to look sickly but with 1500 or so orchids without pulling tags it was impossible to tell when they were potted. After a while they not only looked sick they were DEAD. Well you always loose a few plants but these were mature,robust, previously blooming plants, something was wrong here! Finally got around to knocking some of them out of their pots and sure enough there were those *&^%$#&*)) figure 8 peanuts. Then I remembered a guest lecture George Marcopolis from California Orchid Conservation Project had given to our society and he also had a one line comment on the toxicity of 'Green' peanuts. I immediately checked the tags in all of the pots and knocked the ones potted in that time period out of their pots and sure enough if they weren't dead they were in bad shape. This stuff even leaches out with each watering and seriously damaged plants in baskets of fir bark only (no peanuts)that were situated below the pots containing figure 8's. Some recovered - most did not. My loss and the passing on of the information prevented an entire orchid society from re potting at a re potting party with the deadly figure 8's. I was not aware of the cause other than type of styrofoam used to make the green ones, but have also stayed away from the pink ones that are treated with an anti static compound. Never had any trouble with any shape of the white peanuts 'S' '7' 'chip' or 'mini S'. ################### From: Ron Schlosser Date: Tue, 13 Jan 1998 19:45:07 -0800 Subject: Re: Sarracenia growth habits in the wild On 11-Jan-98, Zachary Kaufman wrote: >Hi. >For those of you that have seen Sarracenia growing in the wild[Carl, >Tom, Dave, Peter, etc.], can you tell me how often their roots penetrate >down into the waterline? >I am looking at using a Rubbermaid 150 gallon plastic livestock >watering trough as a giant pot/bog. The watering trough is oval at >the top roughly 5 feet by 3 feet by 2 feet deep. Currently I grow all >my Sarracenias in pots sitting in standing water. They have >flourished under these conditions despite our low [as compared to >their native habitat] humidity in the summer. I am concerned that if >I transplant the Sarracenia into the watering trough, I will not be >able to safely raise the waterline to the plants's roots. [Having >a foot or more of peat constantly submerged underwater would lead to >anaerobic conditions.] As it stands now, in the summer the waterline >drops substantially during the course of a day on the Sarracenia pots. >By the evening most of the potting media is getting oxygen. This >sharp daily waterline fluctuation would not occur with the watering >trough setup I envision. The volume of water stored is just too >great. Zach, I am using a Rubbermaid 150 gallon stock tank to grow my Darlingtonias in since this spring. I buried the whole thing in the ground intending that the surrounding soil act as an insulator. I took the advice found in the CP books I have and put a "small" 1/2 inch hole in the drain plug. To keep the hole from being plugged by the media, I hot glued a piece of filter fabric over the larger hole on the inside and another over the smaller hole in the plug. I filled the container with a mix of Manatoba coarse peat moss and pumice at about a 4 to 1 ration peat/pumice. The mix stays damp quite a long time and still has drainage, there is about a 2" deep area at the bottom of the tank that never drains. The peat does tend to shrink and pull away from the sides of the container, but that can be filled in. I might try one using coconut coir in place of the peat, same water holding and wicking properties with out as much shrinkage. I also have several large 45 gallon pots also set into the ground with small holes in the bottom for drainage. These I've had "planted" for several years now and the plants winter over just fine. I live in Oregon and our humidity is not high here eather. When I have had to move the plants because they are filling the containers, the root system is quite extensive and penitrates almost all the way down. >Thanks a lot, >--Zachary-- >e-mail: zkaufman@hotmail.com >P.S. The watering trough is designed to sit entirely above ground. > It would basically be a massive pot. > >______________________________________________________ >Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com ################### From: "Sundew Sundew" Date: Tue, 13 Jan 1998 21:00:56 PST Subject: peat moss fuzz and slime Hi list. Although the label on the packages claimed the stuff was heat-sterilized to kill weeds etc, the last batch of sphagnum peat I bought (from Frank's) has grown green fuzzy stuff and a few weeds as well. Anybody know what this green stuff is or more importantly how to get rid of it? I'm worried that it will effect seed germination. Anyone have any suggestion as to which U.S. brands of peat are "cleaner" or better for CP culture? Mail-order preferred. As if this wasn't bad enough, the dried sphagnum moss I also bought at Frank's quickly grew white hairy stuff... My guess is that both of these unwanted guests are mold. Anyone else dissatisfied with Frank's products? Please email me if you know of a good mail-order source for high quality dried sphagnum and peat! Thanks in advance. Matt PS. To all those who have requested seed, I'm now in the process of dividing it all up and it's taking a lot longer than I had anticipated. ______________________________________________________ Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com ################### From: "Sundew Sundew" Date: Tue, 13 Jan 1998 21:31:56 PST Subject: Wanted Hello again. I'm looking for seed or small, pest-free plants of S.American Drosera (particularly D.chrysolepis, villosa, montana, graminifolia, meristocaulis, roraimae, etc), D.neocaledonica, D.petiolaris family, falconeri and smaller Heliamphora spp. or hybrids. Please email me privately if you've got any extras. Thanks in advance! Matt ______________________________________________________ Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com ################### From: Wim Leys Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 09:57:00 +0100 Subject: Re: Greetings, questions and comment Dear Jack Welcome to the CP list. > ... I think this would be a great chance to study cp biology. > I hope you will share your questions, thoughts and results with the list. > I am a chemist and have always been interested in the interelationship > > between between chemicals and living things, as in chemical > communications between species. I am (was) a chemist too, but have never practised it (I studied further to become computer scientist). When I subscribed to this list one year ago, someone (hi Niels) asked for a way to convert tap water into nutrition free water. As you will know, as a general rule, CP's are best watered with rain water (or distilled or Reverse Osmosis (RO) water). I know that oxalic acid is used to precipitate chalk. I've been trying to calculate the optimal pH of the solution with the least amount of chalk, but the knowledge I need is lost a long time ago. I found out that if one keeps adding oxalic acid to a solution, the solubility increases after a certain point. Can you (or any other active chemist on this list) help ? Kind regards Wim ################### From: SCHLAUER@chemie.uni-wuerzburg.de Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 10:19:31 Subject: Re: Anthocyanin free Darlingtonia - nomenclature Dear Wim, > So you are not in favour of the name "S. purpurea purpurea f. > heterophylla" neither, unless of course the lack of anthocyanin would > give this plant a certain benefit. I did notice with Dionaea that > greener plants grow bigger than the redder ones. _S. p. heterophylla_ does apparently have a range that is partially independent from (but still within the total range of) the typical form. If it was a mere colour mutant, I would not accept it as a taxon. Kind regards Jan ################### From: KILSMOOTH Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 05:20:34 EST Subject: Re: Foul language on the listserve..... Hey!! Bri here.....Boy, am i glad my little boy wasn't reading the list with me!!!Firstly,i think everyone with a problem should direct it to the person defacto...Secondly, young cp'ers with that attittude should stick to Beanie Babies and G.I. Joes..Much less troublesome,and no waiting required!!! Bri ################### From: KILSMOOTH Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 05:25:48 EST Subject: Re: CP Wanted! Hello Gang!! Bri from Fl. here.....I'm wanting to increase my collection a bit...anyone got any cp for sale{not the D.capensis category of plants!!} You know, the good rare stuff!! Let me know!, Brian ################### From: Ignacio Rojo Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 11:50:34 +0200 Subject: South America cp growers. Estimados amigos: Me llamo Ignacio Rojo Herguedas y trabajo en el Departamento de Microbiologia III de la Facultad de Biologia en la Universidad Complutense de Madrid, Espa=F1a. Desde hace ya algun tiempo estoy realizando un estudio comparativo de los liquidos digestivos de la planta carnivora Sarrracenia purpurea. Se trata de una investigacion, llamemosla internacional, puesto que han sido muchos los "cultivadores" de plantas carnivoras, de Europa, Norte America y Australia, los que han contribuido, enviandome muestras de los liquidos digestivos de sus plantas para completar mis estudios. Es por esto que me dirijo a vosotros por si alguno esta interesado en contribuir en este estudio. Por ahora se han encontrado "cosas" muy curiosas que, como supongo que entendereis, es pronto para desvelar. De todas formas, en breve, sabremos mucho mas sobre los procesos digestivos de la Sarracenia purpurea. Creo que vuestra cooperacion puede ser de gran ayuda. Si estais enteresados, poneos en contacto en mi e-mail. Os mandare todos los detalles para recoger las muestras y el material necesario. Sin mas y agradeciendos vuestra colaboracion de antemano, me despido deseando lo mejor para el a=F1o 1998. Un saludo. Ignacio Rojo Herguedas Dpt. Microbiologia III Fac. Biologia. U.C.M 28040 Madrid.Espa=F1a. =20 e-mail: rojohi@eucmax.sim.ucm.es =20 ################### From: Lilian M C E Bueno Ladeira Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 11:38:06 -0200 (EDT) Subject: Drosera burmanii Hi people, I'd like to know where this species is originally found. We have a science project in Brazil using some carnivorous plants. We have another question: what the carnivorous plants absorb from prey - minerals or macro molecules. thanks for that, Lilian ................................. Lilian Escobar Bueno Ladeira . Escola do Futuro - USP . Grupo de Ciencias Via Telematica. tel: (55 011) 818-4928/6325/6326. Sao Paulo - SP - Brasil . e-mail: ladeira@usp.br . ................................. ################### From: "Gilles LARDY" Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 01:12:30 +0800 Subject: Homepage updated...more pix... Hi all, Just a small message to tell you that my homepage has been updated with the description of D. oblanceolata. Any comments welcome regarding the page or the botanical vocabulary which, I'm afraid is not always very accurate... Bye. Gilles ################### From: Perry Malouf Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 12:47:21 -0500 (EST) Subject: Madagascariensis Cultivation Hello, Has anyone been able to grow N. madagascariensis to a decent size, say beyond the "baby plant" stage? And, has anyone been able to do this with the TC clone that's being sold far-and-wide in garden shops (in the US)? Is this clone slow, or is N. madagascariensis a particularly slow grower in general? For those who have been successful with N. madagascariensis, what sort of growing conditions does it enjoy, e.g. soil, light, temperature... ? Regards, Perry Malouf ################### From: Necropsy69 Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 15:51:55 EST Subject: Re: MAD CUSTOMERS >I myself have 13 species of NEPENTHES NOT BOUGHT FROM YOU!!!! >Your a crook. >Everyone else, please tell friends and family members to not buy from >this guy. He's no good. Don't believe me? Check out the site yourself. Hey, did I miss out on somethin' here? Who didn't you buy 13 species of neps from? Peter Paul's? When did this topic come up? Who's the crook? Please fill me in. Bye for now Behrad ################### From: Joe Cumbee Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 20:16:54 -0500 Subject: Re: Madagascariensis Cultivation Perry, I have several N. madagascariensis from a chain store and some tc plants from AgriStartsII that I purchased last spring that are growing just fine. I have mainly neglected them and have not even removed many of them from the original pots. The plants are mostly 12 inches or higher, leaves are healthy. The only problem is that none of them has set a pitcher. The N. gracillis that were purchased at the same time have pitchers galore. One of my sons is doing a science fair project using an anti stress agent to see if it helps in pitcher formation. To early for any results just yet. Joe Perry Malouf wrote: > Hello, > > Has anyone been able to grow N. madagascariensis to a decent > size, say beyond the "baby plant" stage? And, has anyone > been able to do this with the TC clone that's being sold > far-and-wide in garden shops (in the US)? Is this clone > slow, or is N. madagascariensis a particularly slow grower > in general? > > For those who have been successful with N. madagascariensis, > what sort of growing conditions does it enjoy, e.g. soil, > light, temperature... ? > > Regards, > > Perry Malouf ################### From: "Gilles LARDY" Date: Thu, 15 Jan 1998 09:18:25 +0800 Subject: OOoops, forgot to give the address... So the address is http://www.geocities.com/RainForest/Canopy/1244/MainFrame.htm Gilles LARDY ################### From: dave evans Date: Wed, 14 Jan 98 20:46 EST Subject: Re: Re: Madagascariensis Cultivation Dear Joe, > The plants are mostly 12 inches or higher, leaves are healthy. > The only problem is that none of them has set a pitcher. The N. > gracillis that were purchased at the same time have pitchers > galore. One of my sons is doing a science fair project using an > anti stress agent to see if it helps in pitcher formation. To > early for any results just yet. What is the anti-stress agent? Do you know how it works? I was wondering if you're game for trying some SuperThrive on your pitcher-less N.madacascarensis? Peter Damato (sp?) of CA Carnivores reported that his pitcher-less N.rajah started grower pitchers after he started using SuperThrive on it... Oh, it could just be too cool for them too. (you never know) Dave Evans ################### From: bergrd@valunet.com (Richard T. Berg) Date: Thu, 15 Jan 1998 02:24:06 GMT Subject: VFT's Responding Well?!?! =) Greetings again! Since I've just joined this discussion group and have thoroughly = enjoyed over 2 weeks of messages now, I wanted to post a question or two and = maybe an observation about the 9 VFT's I've taken under my wing and hopefully nurtured over the past 2-3 weeks... To start things off I basically have a generic setup so far with only a= 5 1/2 gallon aquarium with a glass lid that keeps the heat and humidity = up... Added to this setup is a reptile 'Under Tank' heating pad that keeps the temps around 86 F (daytime) high 60's F (evening) which has seemed to = work quite well... I"ve been growing some regular tropical's so I have the = basic setup with timer (photo period 16 hours), and check's & measures... All seems fine and I've noticed one really neat aspect of these new plants...= =20 At first potting (sphagnum) most plants reacted a little funny with some traps going black and leaves turning yellow... But after a few weeks I've noticed a new leaf poking it's way upward almost daily... All leaves are nice and bright green and the traps are lovely... But the other day I noticed something quite remarkable... Well I wouldn't say it's all that remarkable but rather the first time I've seen such reaction in a plant form... About 4 days ago I found some nice small insects under a log and promptly allowed 3 of the plants to feast while the others I let go... = Over the past few days I've noticed that the plants I've given insects to have shot out new leaves faster and more robust than the plants I didn't = feed... At feeding time 2 plants of similar size had started putting out a new leaf... After about 2-4 days the one plant that did get fed had grown = this new leaf nearly twice as fast as the one that did not feed... WoW!.. = This really made me grin with delight!... Just wondering if anyone (I'm sure = you have) has noticed this or even done a study on the effects of outside nutrients (insects) play on the speed a plant develops/lives...=20 Well this is getting drawn out and boring and I applaud those still reading! I'm now searching for more plants of different species to start growing!.. Thanks so much for listening and for having such a form.. without great discussion groups as these us newbies would never learn!... Kudos to all!!!! Thanks! ... Richard Berg * . . . * .. * . . . * =20 . . . * * . . .=20 * * * . * * * *=20 * // . * * . * .* . =20 // ___o |=3D// Richard Berg \ \/ //|\ / / | \ =20 ` ` ' ' =20 ################### From: MARK POGANY Date: Wed, 14 Jan 1998 23:04:18 -0500 Subject: N. madgascariensis cultivation In CP digest 1327 Perry Malouf wrote: ... ?Has anyone been able to grow N. madagascariensis to a decent size, say beyond the "baby plant" stage? And, has anyone been able to do this with the TC clone that's being sold far-and-wide in garden shops (in the US)? Is this clone slow, or is N. madagascariensis a particularly slow grower in general? All the madagascariensis plants that I have were were from tissue culture. In the first few months of cultivation I noticed very little growth. These were from plants no more than 6" across and 6" high. I began watering them using a very dilute (3 drops a gallon) solution of rain water and the snake oil SuperThrive. Still no immediate results. This species seems to be a slow grower both from my experience and talk with other growers. I keep the pots inside a 50 gallon aquarium tank under high intensity flourescents for 14 hours a day. The medium consists of pink bark chips, chopped osmunda fiber, long-fibered sphagnum, hort. charcoal, peat, large grained silica sand, and orchid bark. The humidity hovers around 80-90% and the temperatures vary from 65-74f. In the last three months all the plants have produced larger 1 to almost 2 inch cherry red pitchers. The tendrils connecting the pitchers to the leaves are also starting to elongate. This species has always been a sticky wicket with me, behaving differently than my other neps. I guess you should try to establish conditions that are intermediate between high and lowlanders and just wait! D. adelae taking over, Mark Pogany Cleveland, Ohio (15f and cloudy) markp@crscms.com ################### From: BREWER_CHARLES@ecomail.damneck.navy.mil Date: Thu, 15 Jan 1998 09:42:18 -0500 Subject: Re[2]: Madagascariensis Cultivation Perry Malouf wrote: > Hello, > > Has anyone been able to grow N. madagascariensis to a decent > size, say beyond the "baby plant" stage? And, has anyone > been able to do this with the TC clone that's being sold > far-and-wide in garden shops (in the US)? Is this clone > slow, or is N. madagascariensis a particularly slow grower > in general? I guess I will throw in my 2 cents worth for what it' worth. I'm like Joe, I purchased several plants from a local HQ store. I immediately repotted them up using a mixture of peat/perlite/sand/bark/burnt pine straw. I kind of just threw a few handfuls of each in a bucket mixed it together. I re potted all plants and put them in the greenhouse sitting in a little water. They seem to do just fine until cold weather set in, then the plants started to show sighs of stress so I transferred them to a aquarium inside the house. I keep a light on them 24 hours a day and the room that they are in will cool down at night to about 68 degrees and rise to 75 degrees during the day. Inside the aquarium the temps will drop to about 70 degrees and raise to about 80 degrees during the day. I clipped the growing spike off, not to force it bush out, but because it turned brown when it was in the greenhouse. Now, I have a bunch of pitchers popping out all over. I don't know if it was due to the change of weather(greenhouse to house) or the removal of the center stalk. All I know is the darn thing is a very slow grower, but has produced pitchers. Even the new side growth has a small pitcher on them. One last thing, I did give a a misting on mild orchid fertilizer. I believe it was 1/4 strength and they are still sitting in a small amount of water. I hope this helps. Charles Brewer > ################### From: Nigel Hurneyman Date: Thu, 15 Jan 1998 11:44:34 -0000 Subject: UK Darlingtonia Pest/E-mail Problems (off-topic)/Lovely Windows (off-topic) After the recent storms subsided, I decided it was time to harvest this year's crop of Darlingtonia seed. To my disgust, I found that every flower had been 'glued' into a ball, the innards eaten away, and the shed skin of a winged beastie was on the outside where the culprit had emerged and flown away. Is there such a thing as a Darlingtonia sawfly? Does this happen in the wild, or is it purely a European pest taking advantage of a new opportunity? We are having e-mail problems again - I am assured by our mail administrator the the problems are at the demon end, and everything sent to me should get here eventually. If I owe anyone an e-mail, please be patient. At a cactus society meeting yesterday, I heard someone say 'lovely windows'. I hunted for the culprit, prepared to inflict grievous bodily harm on the Microsoft stooge, but found someone examining a rather nice Lithops. (I am assured by a Botanical Greek expert that Lithops is the singular). Good Growing, NigelH ################### From: KILSMOOTH Date: Thu, 15 Jan 1998 05:46:21 EST Subject: So ya'll want some sphagnum,huh?? Hello all! Brian here....I've been noticing that alot of you guys have been searching for live sphagnum..Well,your old friendly neighborhood cp dealer here has some.....It's not on my pricelist because i tried it one year and no one bought any,so i didn't waste the time to print it..I don't really know what it goes for these days,and i want to be fair about my prices,so if anyones interested in some,email me and also tell me the going price per bag,etc...Nice pure Florida sphag !!!! Let me know........Trimming my D. capensis hedges,Bri :) ################### From: BREWER_CHARLES@ecomail.damneck.navy.mil Date: Thu, 15 Jan 1998 15:09:48 -0500 Subject: Re: Joe Harden This message is for Joe Harden, I have tries about 8 times to return a message to you, but it keeps getting bounced back. Yes, I still have sphagnum for sale. I sell it for $10.00 per bag(12 x 12") which includes shipping. Money order please. Address is as follows: Charles Brewer 2413 Farmers Court Va. Beach, Va. 23456 Phone(757) 430-2786 ################### From: Lance Jerale Date: Thu, 15 Jan 1998 15:31:04 +0000 Subject: Re: Nepenthes madagascariensis Having killed several tc N. madagascariensis "babies", I hereby join the ranks of those unable to grow this species. I can't figure out what I'm doing wrong. Some of them lasted as long as a year or so with little or no growth, some even tried to send out tiny branches or side growth-- but these never got much past the bud stage, then the plants turned black and died like the rest. I wonder-- would a fungicide help us out here? Is a virus plaguing us? We can't all be guilty of cultural abuse, can we? Most of my other Neps do just fine. I've tried warm, cool, and in between with madagascariensis. No luck. If anyone out there KNOWS why so many of us can't grow this species, please clue us in. Thanks in advance, Lance -- ---------------------------------------------------- ---------------------- Lance F. Jerale 414-775-9520 voice 414-775-9509 fax ljerale@valders.k12.wi.us Valders Middle School 201 West Wilson Street Valders WI 54245 ################### From: BillSherren Date: Thu, 15 Jan 1998 22:03:23 -0000 Subject: CPs for sale Hi everyone, I am preparing my 1998 list of Carnivorous plants for sale shortly. If = you would like a copy, just drop me your address via e-mail or write to = the address at the end of this letter. I am currently only supplying = plants to UK & EEC customers. I hope to cover further afield later on. Happy & Successful growing... Bill Sherren's Carnivorous Plants. 63 Cross Road Walmer Kent CT14 9LA England ################### From: "Alessandro Delfrate" Date: Thu, 15 Jan 1998 22:55:29 +0100 Subject: P. gypsicola is hard to die Hi list I have two considerations: 1) first of all my compliments for the December issue of CPN. Full of interesting informations and valuable contributions. Every time I read a CPN I always wandering about the high quality of the contributions and the selection of the various articles that makes the reading a really fantastic experience. Thanks to all! 2) Plants want to live, and only our actions contribute to their death. This spring I had a nice plantlet from a winter leaf of P. gypsicola. When the plant was 1 cm of diameter, due to unknown reasons suddenly rotted. I carefully placed the only leaf I could save from the disaster, (about 1 cm length) in live sphagnum under artificial lights, 14 our photoperiod and about 25 - 30 \260C temperature. After 4 weeks from the single leaf I obtained n\260 5 nice plantlets, that now are growing in my small greenhouse. A question for the experts: my adult P. gypsicola are now in with the winter bud ( bone dry conditionsof the substrate) , while the five small plants (same greenhouse conditions of the adult plants) are slowly growing without the formation of the winter bud (wet conditions). It is normal that small plants do not develop the winter buds? Another note: I placed 5 winter leafs from my adult plants in live sphagnum, 10 hours photoperiod, 5 - 10 \260C (here in Italy is winter time) and I obtained 4 plantlets. This is a lucky winter for me!! Regards Alessandro Delfrate (alex.gizmo@iol.it) ################### From: BREWER_CHARLES@ecomail.damneck.navy.mil Date: Thu, 15 Jan 1998 17:18:57 -0500 Subject: Re[2]: Nepenthes madagascariensis I wonder-- would a fungicide help us out here? Is a virus plaguing us? We can't all be guilty of cultural abuse, can we? Most of my other Neps do just fine. I've tried warm, cool, and in between with madagascariensis. No luck. If anyone out there KNOWS why so many of us can't grow this species, please clue us in. Thanks in advance, Lance Good question Lance, I guess I should mention that I did spray my plants with a fungicide before bringing them in the house. I can't say that this helped them or not, but I can say that they seem to be growing nicely, but slow. I would say, fungicide can't hurt if applied correctly. Charles Brewer -- ################### From: Bassnik Date: Thu, 15 Jan 1998 17:26:08 EST Subject: Hello Dear CP growers I am ready. I am ready to start growing my first carnivorous plants. Terrarium is getting done.(good idea right????) A good person by the name of Ross told me to grow Drosera capensis. I am very excited. Where should I start? Can anyone tell me where to get the seeds. Hopefully soon, I can by a carnvorous plant grower myself....just like all you good people out there. Sam ################### From: "Carl Strohmenger (HSC)" Date: Thu, 15 Jan 1998 18:45:17 -0500 (EST) Subject: Re: Hello Hello Sam, If you are a member of the ICPS (International Carnivorous Plant Society), you can purchase seeds from the ICPU seedbank. Check a recent issue of the CPN (Carnivorous Plant Newsletter) for a seedbank list. Otherwise, it depends on where you live. Are you in the USA? If so, look for one of the home improvement superstores. They carry some CPs at certain times of the year. Also check this maillist for other members who have seed or plants for sale. - Carl On Thu, 15 Jan 1998, Bassnik wrote: > Dear CP growers > > I am ready. I am ready to start growing my first carnivorous > plants. > Terrarium is getting done.(good idea right????) A good person by the > name of Ross told me to grow Drosera capensis. I am very excited. > Where should I start? Can anyone tell me where to get the seeds. > Hopefully soon, I can by a carnvorous plant grower myself....just like > all you good people out there. > > Sam > ################### From: cfrazie@unm.edu (Chris Frazier) Date: Thu, 15 Jan 1998 18:07:34 -0700 Subject: Nep project still alive Wee Kiat, I am so sorry that it has been so long since I have emailed/spoke to you. I emailed you to thank you for sending out the Nature Malaysiana article when I got it, but the email was returned after 10 days of not getting through. Let's hope this one gets through. First off, thanks again for sending the magazine to me. Your pictures in it are great! Speaking of pictures, I just got my copy of Clarke's book in the mail today. The picture of N. gracilis x N. mirabilis (=N. neglecta) on page 159 looks a lot like Nrg to me. What do you think? Overall, the book is incredibly beautiful, but there is not as much new science in it as I thought there might be. While progress on my project has gone a lot slower than I had hoped (it feels like time has gone faster), the project is still alive and kicking. I have analyzed much of my data from the first trip (including sorting out all the prey I collected from the pitchers). Much of the data is quite encouraging. For various reasons, the isozyme work got put off and off until now. I am currently running the gels full time now and just starting to get results. Its not as easy as just following a recipe, unfortunately. Nepenthes appears to have a lot of "gunk" in it and several enzyme systems aren't working with best guess buffer systems. It is taking a lot of trial and error to find buffers and enzyme systems that will work. Its a little frustrating, but I will get it to work. I know it must be frustrating to you that it has taken me so long to get this part going. I apologize and hope that it is some comfort that we will know soon as to the "true" identity of Nrg. The big news is that my family and I are coming out to Singapore for the final push to get this project done. I have prepared a detailed proposal for what I will be doing while I am out there which has been approved by my committee. I am very excited about the work and I can't wait to get out into the field again. I have limited the scope of my project to just the three Singapore species and their hybrids, that is, I gave up all pretenses of expanding the project to the Borneo or Northern Peninsular Malaysian species. I still have plenty to do! We plan on coming out the last week of February and will probably stay for about 6 months. I have a big grant propsal in to NSF, but I won't here if it gets funded until March or later (it takes them six months to decide). We have our fingers crossed, but even if we don't get it, we'll have to get the project finished anyway. I am hoping that coming at the end of February will get me there just when plants are beginning to flower. Any feelings about this? If I understand it correctly, the weather has been pretty wierd this year for you. I hope El Nino hasn't screwed up the Nepenthes too much. Anyway, I look forward to talking Nepenthes with you in person soon. Give my best to Mr. Wong. Sincerely, Chris ----------------------------------------------------------- Chris Frazier Dept. of Biology, UNM Albuquerque, NM, USA 87131 (505) 277-0683 Fax: (505) 277-3781 Homepage: http://redtail.unm.edu/ ################### From: dave evans Date: Thu, 15 Jan 98 19:54 EST Subject: Re: Re: Anthocyanin free Darlingtonia - nomenclature > So you are not in favour of the name "S. purpurea purpurea f. > heterophylla" neither, unless of course the lack of anthocyanin would > give this plant a certain benefit. I did notice with Dionaea that > greener plants grow bigger than the redder ones. Dear Wim, The largest VFT I have seen was an all-red clone. With VFT the conditions play a very large role in what the plants will look like. This is true of most CP's, BTW. I have noticed that redder plants do better than their greener sisters (most plants are at least female) of the same type in areas that receive very bright light. While it's the greener plants which do better in dimmer conditions. Dave Evans ################### From: "Sundew Sundew" Date: Thu, 15 Jan 1998 17:13:24 PST Subject: Drosera oblanceolata / D.sp.Borneo Not sure if I got the species name right. I checked out whoever's web page it was with the photos and description of this Drosera oblanceolata and was very impressed. I'd like to know more about this species. When was it discovered? Is it related to D.petiolaris? Has anyone got extra seed or plants of this species? I'd definitely like to try growing it. I would also like to hear from others whove got "D.sp Borneo" = sp.8. Last time I posted this request, I got only 1 response. Surely more of you have this tiny plant! Free seed update: I have finally packed up all the seed I promised people and am ready to send it out (as soon as I can get to the P.O>). Unfortunately, I ran out of seed after trying to fill the first 20+ people's requests so there may be a couple of you who dont receive anything. If youre one of those people, you'll know in a couple weeks max. Email me and I'll try to send you some fresh seed once I've collected some. Happy growing, Matt ______________________________________________________ Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com ################### From: L235 Date: Thu, 15 Jan 1998 20:07:37 EST Subject: Re: N . madagascariensis cultivation Ok, Perry, I can't believe I'm chiming in on this one .... but: I have ONE Nepenthes, a tc N. madascariensis I bought at a garden shop in Atlanta, GA USA. It's doing pretty well for me. About 9-10 inches high, it is pitchering and seems fairly robust. I'm growing it in a 4 inch standard plastic pot, in a terrarium (very high humidity) in pure sphagnum moss. I mist it irregularly with a dilute solution of miracid and Super Thrive and the sphagnum is very damp (pot stands in between one-fourth and one-eighth of an inch of water). I much prefer Sarracenia and Drosera due to very limited growing space, and bought this one because ... I felt sorry for it, and thought I'd give it a try. I've promised it to Tim Topoleski in Baltimore, but otherwise you could have it ... I'm running out of room for the thing. Jay Lechtman (L235@aol.com) Reston, VA USA ################### From: "Zachary Kaufman" Date: Thu, 15 Jan 1998 19:43:31 PST Subject: Nepenthes madagascariensis I too have had a lot of difficulty with this plant. Originally, I was growing N. madagascariensis in a long-fiber sphagnum/orchid bark/ perlite/lava rock mix. The plant kept getting bigger and bigger, but at the same time, each new leaf produced was a lighter shade of green. I couldn't figure out what was wrong. I tried it in various environments, but could never seem to please it. Finally, when it was on death's doorstep, I decided to transplant it to new media. It certainly was done for in its current state. When I removed the plant from the pot and began washing away the media I got a heck of a surprise. The base of the stem was not at all what I had expected. It looked as if the madagascariensis had losts its root system, re-rooted and then lost its root system again. I decided to try a different media. I cut into the plant's stem in several places with a knife to aid rooting and potted up, burrying most of the stem in a 50/50 peat/perlite mix. The N. madagascariensis recovered, but seeing that its not in the most ideal of conditions currently [light and humidity starved], its kind of hard to pass any sort of judgement on the growth potential of this plant. I certainly can't account for why its root system would collapse. It wasn't kept overly wet. Is this a common problem with this plant? --Zachary-- ______________________________________________________ Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com ################### From: CMcdon0923 Date: Thu, 15 Jan 1998 22:44:27 EST Subject: Re: N. madagascariensis I have five or six plants, all purchased from Home Depot, and according to their original tags, all from TC. I have done basically nothing to them since purchasing them last February. They are still in their original 3" pots. I keep them in about 1/2 inch of distilled water in a 10 gallon aquarium with a hinged lid to provide air circulation. Temperatures range from about 60F at night to into the 90s on a bright day. I have to cover the setup with an opaque cover on really bright days (Texas winters). I'll have to move it to a less sunny window when summer rolls around, or figure out how to really shield the tank. Humidity averages between 70 to 85%. For the first few months after purchase, they just sat there. I then began adding about a cap full of Superthrive to each gallon of their water. About two months later they began developing pitchers, BUT around the same time, I also rearranged them and placed them in a much sunnier location. So, I can't be sure which action may have contributed more to the sudden pitchering. Right now, the plants average about 6 inches in height, and are up to 8" or maybe a little more, in diameter. Every plant has six to eight pitchers in various stages of development/death. The pitchers all show a bright pinkish- red color at the top, changing to a pale yellow-green at the base. Some of the leaves also have some mottled red color. Pitcher size ranges from about 1/2 inch for newer ones, to a few of about 1-1/2 inches. To the best of my knowledge, none of the plants has ever trapped anything. ################### From: SCHLAUER@chemie.uni-wuerzburg.de Date: Fri, 16 Jan 1998 08:22:20 Subject: Re: _Drosera oblanceolata_ Dear Matt, > Not sure if I got the species name right. Yes. > I checked out whoever's web page it was It was Shing Lam's page. > I'd like to know more about this species. You are certainly not the only one on this list who'd like this. > When was it discovered? The type specimen was collected in 1934. It was discovered (as a new species) around 1981. > Is it related to D.petiolaris? Definitely not. Why did you think so? Kind regards Jan ################### From: "Dr W.R. Tribe" Date: Fri, 16 Jan 1998 11:41:03 +0000 (GMT) Subject: intro, questions and answer I've been on the list for a couple of weeks now - already a couple of my questions have been answered, so it is already worth joining! I've been growing for a couple of years, and have about 40 species, most of which are doing well, which is hardly a surprise as they are amongst the easiest! I have a couple of questions, but first (hopefully) an answer. I can't remember off-hand who it was, but someone asked about sources of live sphagnum in the UK. I had the same problem, and bought from Marston Exotics in Hereford, which was inconvenient. Certainly, all common garden centres, while claiming they had sphagnum, in fact did not. However, it is curious that virtually every garden centre I've been to in the Newcastle-upon-Tyne region DOES have sphagnum - at least it is visually identical to the stuff I used to buy, and my plants have done well in it. I think this is because most garden centres buy from a national company, whereas there is small company in the North East who supply the local centres, seem to know what they are actually selling, and profess to harvest in a sustainable manner. I have two questions. Firstly, I have started growing pygmy sundews under lights. Can they be grown evergreen, or do they need a dormancy? I have conflicting information here. I want gemmae, but if I can vary the growing conditions to my own schedule this will take the hassle out of it! Secondly, my Darlingtonias set seed this year, but I am unsure of the best approach to raising seedlings. Slack simply recommends the same approach as Sarracenias, and I have had little success tracking down other recommendations. It seems to me that there are a number of obvious questions; i) Is it best to use live sphagnum? ii) Do they require a longer (colder?) stratification than Sarracenias? iii) Since the roots are closer to the surface, and therefore given less insulation from the growing medium, do you have to be more careful to limit the root temperature, than in the mature plants? Perhaps there is a dilemma here - how do the seeds know that the growing season is approaching if the soil temperature remains low - i.e. is germination (after stratification) triggered by increased photoperiod alone? I'd very much appreciate any help anyone can offer. It would be great if someone could send out a comprehensive approach to Darlingtonia seeds, above and beyond the questions above. Cheers Bill Tribe ################### From: "Jens Rotthauwe" Date: Thu, 15 Jan 1998 12:27:17 +0100 Subject: Peter Cole / Cambrian Carnivores Hello ! There have been some comments/queries concerning Peter Cole / Cambrian Carnivores on the list lately. I just received the plants I ordered about three months ago ... They were in excellent shape and very carefully packed (the same goes for the plants I got in the past). He wrote that his email is still down. Kind regards Jens ################### From: lim_ivan@jpmorgan.com Date: Fri, 16 Jan 1998 07:46:24 -0500 (EST) XSubject: Peter Cole / Cambrian Carnivores >From lim_ivan@jpmorgan.com Fri Jan 16 07:43:37 1998 Received: from nyc_ntgw_n02.ny.jpmorgan.com (nyc_ntgw_n02.ny.jpmorgan.com [198.75.84.103]) by mrszip.ny.jpmorgan.com (8.8.8/8.7.6) with SMTP id HAA14598 for ; Fri, 16 Jan 1998 07:43:36 -0500 (EST) Received: by nyc_ntgw_n02.ny.jpmorgan.com(Lotus SMTP MTA v1.06 (346.4 3-18-1997)) id 8525658E.003C55CC ; Fri, 16 Jan 1998 05:59:01 -0400 X-Lotus-FromDomain: JPMORGAN@SMTP To: cp@opus.hpl.hp.com Message-ID: <4825658E.003B5901.00@nyc_ntgw_n02.ny.jpmorgan.com> I must say that I have had similar experience with Richard Berg where the VFT is concerned. They seem to grow much better when I feed them with flies as opposed to when I just leave it up to them to catch their own dinner. With feeding, my plants put out healthier looking leaves & at a better rate too. They also start growing new offshoots as well :). I have been growing VFT & S. purpurea for more than 3 years now in equatorial weather (my plants are in Malaysia, but I work in Singapore. their feeding schedule depends on how often I cross the border to go home). Because of the constantly hot & humid weather, my plants never go into dormancy. Other than that, they seem to do fine except that my VFT has only flowered once, that was when I bought the first plant 3 years back. It has since mulitiplied into abt 5-7 plants (I lost some along the way) but none of them have flowered since. Does anyone have an explanation for this? If there is anyone out there on this list that is from Malaysia or Singapore, I would like to hear from them. And if someone knows David Wong from Canada, please let me know how I can contact him. Thanx!! Happy growing :)!! Ivan ################### From: -Tom- Date: Fri, 16 Jan 1998 08:58:56 -0500 (EST) Subject: Re: Re[2]: Nepenthes madagascariensis Dear list, > I wonder-- would a fungicide help us out here? Is a virus plaguing us? > We can't all be guilty of cultural abuse, can we? Most of my other Neps do > just fine. I've tried warm, cool, and in between with madagascariensis. No > luck. If anyone out there KNOWS why so many of us can't grow this > species, please clue us in. I was just pondering the beauty of tissue culture...... Hundreds of thousands of plants can be grown from a single seed. Which at first seems like a good idea. But what if a really crummy clone ends up getting picked and is mass produced? Then everyone is trying to grow a really difficult plant. Perhaps this is the case here? Anyone who has grown N. madagascarensis to decent size from seed out there? Or perhaps it is a symbiotic fungal relationship, that we can't establish, due to not having the correct fungi in our locales? Due to the easy spread of spores, I don't know if this is a problem, but who knows? Anyone ever get cuttings and root them from the wild? It would be interesting to hear how plants originating from the wild compare to TC or seed raised plants. Take care & keep on growing, Thomas K. Hayes DANGEROUS PLANTS dangerous_plants@hotmail.com tkhayes@mail.microserve.net http://www.infinicom.com/~thayes ################### From: "Sundew Sundew" Date: Fri, 16 Jan 1998 08:42:47 PST Subject: _Drosera oblanceolata_ Hi Jan, > I checked out whoever's web page it was >It was Shing Lam's page. Do you have the URL for it? I unfortunately lost it. I did web search on excite and found 1 site with a description of it as well as the other Chinese spp. of Drosera. http://www.herbaria.harvard.edu/china/small_families/droseraceae.htm > Is it related to D.petiolaris? >Definitely not. Why did you think so? Thanks to the low resolution of my monitor, it looked similar to some of the photos ive seen in the past of plants belonging to the petiolaris family. It was just a question, not a statement :) I think I just saw someone on the list offering D.oblanceolata, N.mirabilis and maybe something else to either me (in a response regarding this free seed i'd offered) or to the list in trade for something else. If i wasnt dreaming, could that person please email me? I would love to try growing this plant and would like to hear from anyone growing it. Happy growing, Matt ______________________________________________________ Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com ################### From: "Sarver.Cindy V3I" Date: 16 Jan 1998 08:33:45 -0800 Subject: Nep Madagascariensis cultivation All, This may not be relevant, because the plants that I saw in Madagascar are not exactly the same as those that are sold everywhere, but the growing conditions there were actually much different than most people have described for cultivation. The plants that I saw were growing in pure sand. There hadn't been any rainfall for quite a while, and, in fact, they don't get much rain at all in the winter in the southern part of Madagascar. This was near the "spiny forest" area, which is quite desert-like. The humidity was fairly low (50% perhaps? this is a guess). It was winter when I was there, and temperatures went from perhaps the mid-70's F during the day, to mid-50's at night. They received light about 14 hours per day. Summer, of course, would be hot and wet. They appear to flower all year round. The seedlings that I have at home from these plants appear to be appreciating the wide temperature swing that Southern California provides from day to night. Perhaps these plants need changes in environment from winter to summer. I am keeping mine a little drier this winter, and will increase the humidity and watering in the spring and summer. Good growing, -cindy ################### From: "Sundew Sundew" Date: Fri, 16 Jan 1998 08:56:22 PST Subject: CP List Response - Is anyone out there? Hi guys, I'm currently on several other internet mailing lists and was wondering why the posts I've made here have gotten such limited response. On the other lists I subscribe to (which have fewer members than this one), a single message will often trigger 20 responses. Where is everybody?! Am I one of the only people on this list who's interested in S.American, African and other unusual Drosera? Anyone have any D.petiolaris or related FS or T? Heliamphoras? Anyone else have D.sp.Borneo? Know about D.oblanceolata? Know what this green fuzz on my new peat moss could be or know how to get rid of it? Know a good source for *high quality* dry sphagnum / peat moss? Please help! Private responses definitely welcome! Thanks in advance and Happy Growing, Matt ______________________________________________________ Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com ################### From: Steven Stewart Date: Fri, 16 Jan 1998 12:04:44 -0500 Subject: Introduction & _N. madagascariensis_ Hello, I am Steven Stewart in Sanford,Florida,U.S.A.. I have been following this group now for a while, because cp and other unusual plants have taken up a good part of my life for more than 25yrs..I have been working at a private college in central Florida for the past 12 yrs.. I have a small wholesale plant business and a number of Florida native and other unusual plant species from around the world. I have been growing _N. madagascariensis_ for about a year now (thanks Cliff). This Nep. seens to be an exception to the "general" culture of others.I allow this species to become completely dry out between waterings,potted in long-fibered sphagnum rootbound in 1 gallon plastic pots. I soak when dry but keep it too dry for the live sphagnum on the surface to thrive. My plants are about 2 ft. tall with upper pitchers a bright green, 4" in size, and basal pitchers apple red 2". The leaves are dark green with some red tint from direct sunlight. The main problem with this clone is it's lack of resistance to "Black Spot" fungus, which occurs on plants under mist. This is the way I grow this species in central Fl. I hope this information is of some help. Steve Stewart ################### From: Paul Burkhardt Date: Fri, 16 Jan 1998 11:41:09 -0600 (CST) Subject: N. madagascariensis Hi list, I have one tc N. madagascariensis about six inches tall or so, and a bunch of seedlings. All are doing fine. I've found that this species likes it warm and humid, in a damp medium, but not too wet. The pitchers are 1-2 inches, squat and a nice red color throughout. I water it once a week, and the medium is 2:2:1 peat, silica sand, and charcoal. Temperatures around 75-80 F seem optimal. Paul Burkhardt ################### From: BREWER_CHARLES@ecomail.damneck.navy.mil Date: Fri, 16 Jan 1998 14:19:13 -0500 Subject: Re: Nep Madagascariensis cultivation Hi Folks, It starting to sound like some of the Madagascariensis growing kinks are beginning to be worked out. Thanks to Cindy Saver and Steven Stewart, both have offered us 'somewhat' similar growing tips and conditions. It appears, from what has been posted recently, that "what" may be considered good growing condition for these plants are: Dryer then normal condition, well drained soil(airy mixture) average to high humidity, warm temperatures, bright light with "some" full sun for color, good air circulation and some preventative fungicide maintenance, on occasions (optional of course). I would think that good air circulation would limited the use of having to use a fungicide. This plant is starting to sound more and more like a good candidate for a house plant. I think I might pick up a few more this weekend and try my luck at turning them into a house plant. The big question now is to figure out which one of my wife's house plants, I call weeds:), I want to dump to make room for a beautiful N. Madagascarienses. In closing, I do not consider these growing tips to be 100% correct. I do expect some challenges, comments and additions, but at least, it seems like we are starting to learn more and more about their growing conditions. Charles Brewer Va. Beach, Va. ################### From: cfrazie@unm.edu (Chris Frazier) Date: Fri, 16 Jan 1998 12:26:56 -0700 Subject: Gel Electrophoresis of Nep CPfolk, Has anyone out there tried gel electrophoresis of Nepenthes, Droseraceae, Drosophyllum or know of published references to this? I am doing an isozyme study of N. gracilis, N. ampullaria and N. rafflesiana and their hybrids and am having trouble getting good enzyme/buffer combinations. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Chris ----------------------------------------------------------- Chris Frazier Dept. of Biology, UNM Albuquerque, NM, USA 87131 (505) 277-0683 Fax: (505) 277-3781 Homepage: http://redtail.unm.edu/ ################### From: BREWER_CHARLES@ecomail.damneck.navy.mil Date: Fri, 16 Jan 1998 14:40:02 -0500 Subject: re: German peat moss I am looking for a good source for German peat moss. If you know where I can purchase some in the US or around the East Coast, let me know. Thanks in advance Charles Brewer ################### From: "Gilles LARDY" Date: Fri, 16 Jan 1998 04:25:51 +0800 Subject: D. OBLANCEOLATA HERE... Hi Matt, Jan, No, you were not dreaming, I have posted the address of my new homepage to list last week (updated a few days ago with clearer pix), and was also proposing some trade on plantlets... http://www.geocities.com/RainForest/Canopy/1244/MainFrame.htm ################### From: "Ermine!" Date: Fri, 16 Jan 1998 12:40:23 -0800 Subject: VFTs, d.capensis flowering Qs, fungus, and more! > From: bergrd@valunet.com (Richard T. Berg) > Subject: VFT's Responding Well?!?! =) > At feeding time 2 plants of similar size had started putting out a new > leaf... After about 2-4 days the one plant that did get fed had grown > thiis new leaf nearly twice as fast as the one that did not feed... WoW!.. > This really made me grin with delight!... Just wondering if anyone > (I'm sure you > have) has noticed this or even done a study on the effects of outside > nutrients (insects) play on the speed a plant develops/lives... I haven't done any sort of peer-reviewed study, no. (I've only been into CP for the last few months myself!) But I've definitely seen a difference in fed plants versus non-fed ones. I had a large clump of VFT seedlings I got from Home Depot, and teased all of the intertwinded plants apart. A couple of them I found insects smell enough to feed, but the rest went without until they had larger traps (Or I could find more small bugs.) Within a month, the fed plants were twice the size of the others, and putting out large traps rapidly. After that, I take care to keep my VFTs fed! I also notice the same reaction from S. purpurea and my one Nepenthes. Each of them began growing and pitchering much larger and faster after the first time I fed them. ============================== Now, on a personal note to the rest of you, *I* have some questions. :) First, I've got a d.capensis that's flowering. I know, I know, most of you wonder why I didn't snip the scape so 'that weed' didn't spawn, but I am new to the whole hobby, and really wanted to let it flower. I get seeds this way, too - and that's the question. Right now, all but one of the flowers has opened and closed. how long should I wait before snipping the stalk and bagging it for seeds? Should I wait till the seedpods turn brown or black? Everything is still green yet. Any help would be appreciated. Second question! I've got a fungus among us here.. At least two pots, one with a VFT and one with a newly-potted plant are showing a lot of white, cottony fungus. In the newly potted plant, it looks like the soil itself that's suddenly bloomed into white fuzz. The same sort of thing happens to any insect on my d.adelae - within two days of being ensnared, it looks like a cotton ball from fungus. What is the recommended procedure? I've never used a fungicide or anything of the sort, and don't want to hurt the plants. Help? Thank you! Matt O. ermine@aimnet.com ################### From: dave evans Date: Fri, 16 Jan 98 15:43 EST Subject: Re: Drosera madagascariensis var major Dear Robert and Eric, > Robert Gibson here again in Cape Town with some thoughts on the robust, > green madagascariensis-like sundews from Magaliesberg. Could these be > what Burtt Davy described, in 1926, as var major? Eric Green grows some > of these robust plants, which came from the same area as the type > location. I have also seen very similar plants growing under the name of > sp "Botswana". Food for thought. I have been growing D. sp. from Magaliesberg for little over a year and D.nidiformis since the summer. While they have both at least started to flower, I didn't get a good look at the Magaliesberg plants' flower stems or flowers. The D.nidiformis now has a nice spike rising up and I'll be sure to pay closer attention this time. While the two "species" look a lot alike (D.anglica-like growth habit), the D.nidiformis is much more robust and has about twice as many active leaves as the sp. Mag.... Can anyone say if they have also noticed this about their plants, if you have them both? Thanks, Dave Evans P.S. Does sp. Botswana have a stem? ################### From: dave evans Date: Fri, 16 Jan 98 16:09 EST Subject: Re: CP List Response - Is anyone out there? > Hi guys, I'm currently on several other internet mailing lists and was > wondering why the posts I've made here have gotten such limited > response. On the other lists I subscribe to (which have fewer members > than this one), a single message will often trigger 20 responses. Where > is everybody?! Dear Matt, Well, I only have e-mail at my (currently) part-time job so it takes a while for me to respond to e-mails... > Am I one of the only people on this list who's interested in > S.American, African and other unusual Drosera? I sure am! I'm trying to grow as many South African Drosera as I can. > Anyone have any D.petiolaris or related FS or T? > Heliamphoras? Anyone else have D.sp.Borneo? Know about > D.oblanceolata? Know what this green fuzz on my new peat moss > could be or know how to get rid of it? Some people have mentioned that green fuzz can be *prevented* by using pine needle straw, but I'm not sure how much you use or if it's more involved than jut grinding some up and sprinkling it on the surface of your mix or not. Dave E ################### From: AKIRA1688 Date: Fri, 16 Jan 1998 17:17:39 -0800 Subject: Nepenthes Hi people, I just receieved a Nepenthes Ampullaria and Nepenthes Ventricosa. Is it possible to put them both together in a tank? What temp to keep at? -Thanks- ################### From: bergrd@valunet.com (Richard T. Berg) Date: Sat, 17 Jan 1998 04:42:23 GMT Subject: FYI - Gardenweb CP Fourm! Just wanted to inform the subscribers of the list that the excellent web site GardenWeb has just opened a NEW CP forum... All messages/replies are in the form of web-boards and are easily accessible from their fast site!... Many have asked for some time now for a CP forum and now we've gotten it!.. Take a gander over to http://www.gardenweb.com for details.. Enter the 'GardenWeb Forums' link to access a variety of forums' ranging from Bonsai to Roses... A must site for us Plant Nutz!...=20 Good Growing... ... Richard Berg --=3D*=3D--=3D*=3D--=3D*=3D--=3D*=3D--=3D*=3D--=3D*=3D--=3D*=3D-- -=3D[ Richard Berg ]=3D- =20 bergrd@valunet.com ICQ#2671110 Astronomy, Bonsai, CP's, Tropicals http://www.valunet.com/~bergrd --=3D*=3D--=3D*=3D--=3D*=3D--=3D*=3D--=3D*=3D--=3D*=3D--=3D*=3D-- ################### From: "Peter Lowden" Date: Sat, 17 Jan 1998 22:40:51 +1300 Subject: Looking for Drosera Seed. I am looking for Drosera seed, as the only thing I really can find is capensis (and heaps of it!). Does anyone know where to get anything more intersesting, preferably close to New Zealand. Thanks, Peter. ################### From: "Jens Rotthauwe" Date: Sat, 17 Jan 1998 14:15:16 +0100 Subject: D. petiolaris complex photos / D. neocaledonica Hi List ! I have grown some D. petiolaris complex plants from seed and want to make sure they really are what they should be(They look pretty similar so far...). Are there any photos or other information concerning the D.petiolaris complex on the web ? Does anybody know if the photo of D. petiolaris in Pietropaolos book is correct (is D. petiolaris always that pubescent ? My plants are not ...) BTW has anybody got seed of D.neocaledonica (or any information on this plant)? Thanks a lot for your help ! Kind regards Jens _____________ ______________________ Jens Rotthauwe Tel.: 0228 /253216 Im Jagdfeld 61 Email: uzsb09@uni-bonn.de 53125 Bonn GERMANY ################### From: "Sundew Sundew" Date: Sat, 17 Jan 1998 07:50:08 PST Subject: Free Seed Update / D.neocaledonica /D.oblanceolata Good news, I finally sent out that old CP seed that I had kept in the fridge for the last few years. I sent seed to about 20 other list-members. Unfortunately, I didn't have enough to send to 2 or 3 of the people who responded. :( If you are one of those people (you'll know in a week or 2 max), email me and I will try to send you some fresh seed once i get some! If you do receive seed from me, please email me once you get it so I know that it's arrived and please also keep me posted as to germination success! Re: D.neocaledonica - I too am looking for seeds or small plants of this 1, if you've got any extra, please email me. am also curious to know how people grow this 1! Re: D.oblanceolata, i know what D.petiolaris looks like and now that ive seen the close-up photos, i dont know what i was thinking when i asked if it was related to petiolaris! oops. happy growing matt ______________________________________________________ Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com ################### From: Mike V Date: Sat, 17 Jan 1998 18:51:09 +0000 Subject: Brocchinia pupping Hello all: Recently I discovered that my 9" tall Brocchinia reducta had produced a pup; it is about 1/4" tall. Just now I found another, about half the size. So, how many more can I expect? How fast will they grow? When, if ever, should I separate them? How will this end? Will it just keep pupping indefinitely, die after awhile, flower, or what? Thanks- Jonathan Mitchell :) ################### From: Necropsy69 Date: Sat, 17 Jan 1998 23:22:34 EST Subject: Nepenthes propagation. Hey fellow cpers, Have you ever had a very large nepenthes with several stems that you wanted to cut back, and after you cut the plant back, you still had a large plant left? Well, instead of removing more of the mother plant's stem, allow it to begin to grow the new stems. I've noticed if you allow the mother plant to grow those secondary stems, and then you remove them and plant them, they will produce healthier plants with more definate results. And the good thing is, if your plant is large enough, even after you take the secondary stems off for rooting, you'll still have a good amount of the mother plant left to produce new stems. Well, this is not really a method for people who aren't in the condition I am in. I just thought I should share that with you. See ya guys later and let me know if you have questions. Bye Behrad ################### From: bergrd@valunet.com (Richard T. Berg) Date: Sun, 18 Jan 1998 05:33:13 GMT Subject: Bargain Find / Cultivating Sphagnum... Greets, Was wondering the best way to cultivate live sphagnum moss within a CP terrarium...=20 Today I called most of the local nurseries in my area and ran into a major dead end finding live sphagnum... All of the retailers had none or even didn't know it came in 'live' forms (this was fun explaining how = they get it dried and dead ;) With all the roadblocks still in place I visited one of these local nursery's and found some rather sickly VFT's... Since I'm just starting I have only VFT's at this moment and curiously scanned the lot only to find nearly 70% of them either dead or on their way to checking out... Within= a few moments I noticed that many of the already dead plants had been overgrown with healthy green spahgnum and instantly thought of a way to propose to the keeper she should allow me to buy the dead plants for the sole reason of the living moss...=20 She took kindly to this and actually gave me 3 pots for free with mucho live spahgnum... I've added this to my already established setup ( 5 1/2 gallon terrarium) and thought to ask the group the best way to cultivate this moss so I can eventually grow in mostly live moss...=20 Also to my DELIGHT while opening the pots to weed out the moss I found the most beautiful plant I now have... I've seen this only on web sites = so far but am excited to now own an all red variant VFT... She was just sitting there, albeit covered in total moss, in the center as planned... = I was shocked to find this since at first I only saw moss and the other plants offered were quite yellow-green... Pretty healthy so far with deep red coloration the lobes/teeth of the traps and new leaves forming from center with a red hue... Not to bad for a little quick thinking and ingenuity!...=20 Please email regarding the moss if anyone has time and I PROMISE next post will be shorter and less melodramatic! =3D) ... Richard --=3D*=3D--=3D*=3D--=3D*=3D--=3D*=3D--=3D*=3D--=3D*=3D--=3D*=3D-- -=3D[ Richard Berg ]=3D- =20 bergrd@valunet.com ICQ#2671110 Astronomy, Bonsai, CP's, Tropicals http://www.valunet.com/~bergrd --=3D*=3D--=3D*=3D--=3D*=3D--=3D*=3D--=3D*=3D--=3D*=3D--=3D*=3D-- ################### From: Derek Glidden Date: Sun, 18 Jan 1998 01:25:53 -0500 (EST) Subject: Misc. Where I live here in Florida, the "winter" is the season where it gets a little colder outside and a lot of the little creepy-crawly beasties like to start coming inside where the people usually keep it much warmer than necessary. In the apts in which I live, this is also the season when I typically see the little pharoah ants (I've heard them called sugar ants, too) come into my kitchen. As I'm sure everyone here is aware, Nepenthes use nectar to attract their prey. Well, it seems that "my" pharoah ants are attracted to Nepenthes nectar, I have just recently discovered; very attracted. In particular, my N.alata x maxima usually has several dozen teeny little ants running around its peristome. Needless to say, many fall in. So here it is, the cold part of the year when bugs are typically scarce and my Nepenthes are gorging themselves. I'm trying to avoid the urge to start leaving candy wrappers lying around in the other terrarium for my other plants.... -=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-= Derek Glidden http://www.illusionary.com Illusionary.com Home of the Pagan Resource Site Web development, database, graphics and general plumbing Linux, FreeBSD, Apache, MySQL, PostgreSQL, PHP (Say No to NT!) ################### From: "Jens Rotthauwe" Date: Sat, 17 Jan 1998 14:27:45 +0100 Subject: Drosophyllum Hi list ! Does anybody have spare seed (about 10) of Drosophyllum for sale or trade. Please ask for my seedlist if you are interested. Kind regards Jens _____________ ______________________ Jens Rotthauwe Tel.: 0228 /253216 Im Jagdfeld 61 Email: uzsb09@uni-bonn.de 53125 Bonn GERMANY ################### From: "Dr Pamela Burns-Balogh" Date: Sun, 18 Jan 1998 05:20:27 -0600 Subject: Balogh Scientific Books- Carnivorous plant books I have the following books available which you might be interested in.. shipping charges are added but only at cost.. if you are interested in purchasing any of these please email us.. Pam PITCHER-PLANTS Phillipps, A. & A. Lamb. 1996. Pitcher-Plants of Borneo. This work deals with the genus Nepenthes (Pitcher Plants) in Borneo, some of which are cultivated by enthusiasts in many parts of the World. There are chapters on discovery and history, ecology and natural history, pitcher plants in folklore, and an account of the 40 species and hybrids known from Borneo. All are illustrated in colour from paintings by Susan Phillips. x + 171 pp. Hard cover with dust jacket. Many colour and b & w illustrations. ISBN 983 812 009 X $42.00 Simpson, RB. 1994. Pitchers in Trade. Kew, Royal Botanic Gardens. 61p. $15.00 LENTIBULARIACEAE Taylor, PG. reprint 1994. The genus Utricularia: a taxonomic monograph. Kew, Royal Botanic Gardens, reprinted 1994. Now once again available. xii + 724 pp. Soft Cover. ISBN 0 947643 72 9 $80.00 NEPENTHES Jebb, M & M. Cheek. A skeletal revision of Nepenthes (Nepenthaceae). Blumea volume 42, No. 1. 1997. pp. 1-106: A world revision of the genus is presented to accompany a family account for the Flora. of Malesiana. 82 species are recognized, of which 74 occur in the Malesiana region. 6 species are described as new, 1 species if raised from infraspecific status, and 5 species are restored from synonymy. Many names are typified for the first time. Full descriptions are given for 6 new and 7 recircumscribed species. Critical notes are supplied for all species. An index to all published names and an index to exsiccatae (herbarium specimens) are given. In addition, there are keys to species arranged by islands (Sumatra, Borneo, Molucca, etc. Each species account includes the name, authors, original citation, type specimen, distribution, notes, ecology (short). several line figures, some B&W photos, and maps. paperback. $35.00 PINGUICULA Casper, S. Jost. 1966. Monographie Der Gattung Pinguicula L. Bibliotheca Botanica Heft 127/128, Band XXXI. covers history, systematics, morphology, genetics, ecology, physiology, evolution. Subgenus Isoloba: 20 species, Subgenus Temnoceras: 9 species, Subgenus Pinguicula: 17 species. in German, 241 pp., 28 B&W photos, 46 drawings or maps. $155.00 Dr. Pamela Burns-Balogh balogh@balogh.com Balogh Scientific Books, http://www.balogh.com 1911 N. Duncan Rd. , Champaign, Illinois 61821 USA fax: +1 217 355 9413; phone: +1 217 355 9331 ################### From: KILSMOOTH Date: Sun, 18 Jan 1998 07:13:05 EST Subject: Re:Heliams wanted!! Hello List! Brian from Fl. here...Hey,that's great news about the cp chat on gardenweb.com Cool!! I'll have to scoot over there in a bit! I'm looking for Heliams,maybe ....a flat of them would do nicely..to mass produce as an item on my list in the future. Preferably H.nutans or H.heterodoxa,but H. minor is fine also...I'm also looking for Drosera seed..nothing hum - drum though...Any ideas or replys are appreciated....Thanks, and enjoy CP!! Bri :) ################### From: dmjoel@mail.netvision.net.il (Daniel M. Joel) Date: Sun, 18 Jan 1998 16:34:56 +0200 (IST) Subject: Winter Meeting in Israel To all CP lovers in Israel, The winter meeting of the CP Society of Israel will take place on Tuesday January 27 at 17:00 in room 02, the Sherman Building, Tel-Aviv University. Dr. Moshe Agami (Director of the Botanical Gardens of Tel-Aviv University) will talk about the Nepenthes habitat in madagascar, and Mrs. Sara Giladi (the University Botanical Garden in Jerusalem) will discuss winter treatments that are required for CP. Plants will be offered for sale at 16:30. All welcome. ________________________________________________________ Dr. Daniel M. Joel Carnivorous Plant Society of Israel ________________________________________________________ ################### From: "R. Beer" Date: Sun, 18 Jan 1998 20:06:58 -0800 (PST) Subject: raising live Sphagnum Hi Richard, thought I'd put in my $0.02 worh. I'm lucky to live in an area where there is live sphagnum within walking distance of my house. But being conservation minded, I don't believe in going out and digging up armloads of the stuff for my pots. At the high point of my CP cultivation, I had maybe 10 flats of pots and a large tub planter, as well as various and sundry aquaria and fishbowls. All the moss I ever had was the descendent of about three handfuls taken from a local bog on lake Washington about 9 years ago. I simply took a sharp knife and cut the moss up into tiny pieces - minute really. I was tempted to try the food processor but thought that might mutilate it a bit much (anyone tried it? Sphagnum cookery? ). :) One small handful, cut like that, sprinkled over a large planter of peat and watered in, will produce a lush cover in a season. Unless of course local raccoons get their own idea, but that is another story... From then, I would just "mow" the moss with scissors from time to time and cut up the trimmings for other pots. No shortage now. One thing I have *not* been successful with is trying to grow it from dry long-fiber sphagnum moss. Theoretically the spores must be there but either I didn't give it the right conditions for germination, or it was too old and the spores weren't viable any more. Bob ################### From: "Peter Lowden" Date: Mon, 19 Jan 1998 21:58:38 +1300 Subject: Drosera binata germination What are peoples experience in germinating this species? I got some seed a few months ago. It took about five weeks to germinate. Some seed I planted last Sunday, has just germinated. Thats just over a week! Has anyone else managed to get it to grow that quickly? I wish I could get my Sarracenia to germinate that quickly, my last lot took three months! ################### From: SCHLAUER@chemie.uni-wuerzburg.de Date: Mon, 19 Jan 1998 15:09:49 Subject: Re: Gel Electrophoresis of Nep Dear Chris, > Has anyone out there tried gel electrophoresis of Nepenthes, > Droseraceae, Drosophyllum or know of published references to this? Yes, cf. T.Lowrey, Am.J.Bot.78:200 (1991). > I am > doing an isozyme study of N. gracilis, N. ampullaria and N. rafflesiana and > their hybrids and am having trouble getting good enzyme/buffer > combinations. Any help would be greatly appreciated. What kind of extract are you working with? Which enzymes do you want to investigate? Do you use antioxidants? It frequently helps to add physiological concentrations of coenzymes of the investigated enzymes to the extraction buffer. Which detection methods do you (want to) apply? I suppose you use cellulose electrophoresis for your isozyme analyses. Kind regards Jan ################### From: Davil Dane Date: Mon, 19 Jan 1998 09:35:19 EST Subject: Sarracenia x 'Ladies in Waiting' - Thanks Thanks to everyone for all the useful information about this new cultivar. I ordered one from Niche Gardens' website. It's also listed as a "TOP PICK" in the February, 1998 issue of Horticulture (text, page 34; picture, page 36). BTW, the January 1st, 1998 issue of American Nurseryman has a story on page 14 about a new "All-Green Purple Pitcher Plant" (S. purpurea subsp. venosa var. burkii forma alba) to be introduced by the Atlanta Botanical Garden. Apparently, the plant will be available through CPN this spring or summer. Stay tuned! David Lane Dover, NH ################### From: "Justin Arthur" Date: Mon, 19 Jan 1998 11:08:27 PST Subject: SUPERthrive source Hello CP-DUDES Does anyone know of a source of SUPERthrive that sells it for less than $8.45 for a 4 oz. bottle. I would also like to know of the cheapest source of nepenthes. Justin T. Arthur Chapel Hill, NC 27514 United States Of America ################### From: Joe Cumbee Date: Mon, 19 Jan 1998 14:42:00 -0500 Subject: Re: SUPERthrive source Justin, Try A World of Orchids, I know you can buy it by the gallon from them at about $55.00 http://www.orchidmall.com/awoo/index.htm joe Justin Arthur wrote: > Hello CP-DUDES > Does anyone know of a source of SUPERthrive that sells it for less than > $8.45 for a 4 oz. bottle. I would also like to know of the cheapest > source of nepenthes. > > Justin T. Arthur > > Chapel Hill, NC 27514 > United States Of America ################### From: anggrek@juno.com (Tsuh Yang Chen) Date: Mon, 19 Jan 1998 20:24:24 EST Subject: stratifying seeds dear cp'ers, i have a few seeds of sarracenia thanks to david meillard's generosity. i wanted to know if it is possible to stratify them dry, and if it is necessary that they be stored wet in the fridge, can i use ziploc bags for that purpose? thanks for any info. tsuh yang chen, new york city ################### From: Richard Brown Date: Mon, 19 Jan 1998 22:03:34 -0500 Subject: Re:Sugar Ant Remedy >Nepenthes >use nectar to attract their prey. Well, it seems that "my" pharoah ants >are attracted to Nepenthes nectar, I have just recently discovered; very >attracted. Trent here in the office, once again on Richard's computer. I found Derek's posting amusing. The sugar ants appear in my kitchen (also in Florida), and I could never figure out what was attracting them, as I keep the kitchen spotlessly clean. I tried eveything to get rid of them, without resorting to strong insecticides. I solved the problem overnight with a single plant of N. alata. I placed the plant next to the sink, turned out the lights and called it a night. The next morning there were no more ants. A single pitcher was full of drowned ants, with a few stragglers still running around the peristome or clinging to the lid . The plant went back outside and the kitchen ant problem was solved. Helpful housekeeping tips for CP ers. Until later, Trent Meeks Pompano Beach, Florida ################### From: Ross.Rowe@ea.gov.au (Ross Rowe) Date: Tue, 20 Jan 1998 14:18:38 +1000 Subject: Re: stratifying seeds I have tried the following methods of stratification of seed with good success. These techniques have been published in the Australian Carnivorous Plant Society Newsletter (mostly refer to article by Allen Lowrie, I think in vol 16.1, 1997). Refer to ACPS website (http://www.camtech.net.au/acps/framed.html) for subscription details. Simply place the seed in a paper envelope, immerse in water and freeze for 36 hours. Thaw and sow (seed can dry again before sowing or place the whole ice block on top of soil if not using a paper envelope). Used for Darlingtonia, my observations showed signs of germination (swelling and splitting of seed coat) after 1-2 weeks. This freezing method also works for Sarracenia with germination c. 4weeks later. Another method is to treat the seeds with a gibberelic acid solution (10ml per litre of water). Soak the seed in labelled envelope for 24 hours, dry and sow. Germination times similar to the above freezing technique for both Darlingtonia and Sarracenia. When seeking supplies of Gibberelic acid (a plant growth hormone) shop around, cost varies, obtained from agricultural product suppliers. One source is called "Gallop Growth" by NUFARM. The liquid is apparently better than the powder forms. For VFT, no treatment necessary, a test of the above 2 techniques and no treatment on a batch of seed showed little variation in germination time. Note all the above seed was from the ACPS seed bank and had I believe been stored dry in a fridge (refer to previous notes on this list from Russell Elliot, seed bank coordinator). A friend recently sowed his fresh VFT seed straight after harvesting (early summer) and the seed germinated a few weeks later. Allen Lowrie's article also gives direction for breaking dormancy in Drosera seed using a smoke treatment. Hope this helps Ross Canberra ______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________ Author: anggrek@juno.com (Tsuh Yang Chen) at Internet dear cp'ers, i have a few seeds of sarracenia thanks to david meillard's generosity. i wanted to know if it is possible to stratify them dry, and if it is necessary that they be stored wet in the fridge, can i use ziploc bags for that purpose? thanks for any info. tsuh yang chen, new york city ################### From: MARK POGANY Date: Mon, 19 Jan 1998 23:50:39 -0500 Subject: Re: Drosera Binata germination Peter, In CP Digest 1332 you wrote: What are peoples experience in germinating this species? I got some seed a few months ago. It took about five weeks to germinate. Some seed I planted last Sunday, has just germinated I think, though I'm not positive, is this species requires a short stratification. Last winter I received a small pack of binata seed from Dean Cook. It was immediately sown in a pot in one of my plant tanks under lights. After 1 month I only had two seedlings. I transplanted these to a different pot then used the leftover peat/sand for mix in other pots. Around the first of April (fool's) all my indoor CP were relocated outside on my patio. The first part of this month in Ohio is like riding a rollercoaster, one day its 75f, the next you've got 6" of snow in your driveway. There were some nights when temps got down to the low 30's. By early June many of my pots of VFT, Drosera, and Sarracenia were EXPLODING with D. binata! I'm still pickin' them out now..... If your seed is still fresh germination might not be a problem. Try sprinkling the binata seed on a damp piece of paper towel, roll it up, and stick inside the fridge for a few weeks. After that, remove it and sow on 50/50 peat-sand, then set in a well lit place with high humidity. Hope this helps, Mark Pogany Cleveland, Ohio markp@crscms.com ################### From: Ploobutt Date: Mon, 19 Jan 1998 23:45:40 EST Subject: Ants in my nepenthes Hi, I was wondering what I should do, two of my nepenthes have alot of ants burrowing in their pots. Is that going to harm them? The main difference I noticed is that all of the usually whole sphagnum is ground up to powder. I was thinking of soaking them in distilled water, but they would just go out of the pot and onto the plant. Any ideas? Thanks, Gabriel ################### From: CMcdon0923 Date: Mon, 19 Jan 1998 23:38:03 EST Subject: Calling Joe Harden Sorry to clutter up the list with this, but Joe, I couldn't respond to your 'Re. Texas?' mail item. My reply keeps getting bounced back (several attempts) from your ISP due to "address permanent fatal errors". So, in reply: I'm located just north of Dallas. Again, my apologies to the rest of the list. And while I'm at it, I certainly enjoy when "posters" to the list include a comment as to where they are located. Perhaps more of you (us) could include a short blurb as to where you're located. Seems like we have quite a geographicaly diverse membership. Thanks, Craig (just north of Dallas, Texas) Craig ################### From: lmbuddenhagen@ucdavis.edu (Leilani Buddenhagen) Date: Mon, 19 Jan 1998 23:16:39 -0700 Subject: some advice Hello! I am an Environmental Horticulture student at the University of California at Davis. I am researching a project which will outline the complete production requirments of a carniverous plant. My interests in conservation and personal enjoyment of carniverous plants are not necssarily embodied by the market focus of the assignment. But I would like to try it anyway. I am hoping that your expertise might lead me to either the facts them selves or referals to the information I need. What is the most easy (i.e. energy/time efficient) to propagate/produce carniverous plant species? Which species has the most potential for public interest? What species has the most information availiable about its production requirements? Where is my best bet for finding these details of production? (books, magazines, growers, hobbyists, university departments, etc) Do you know of anything in particular? I appreciate you helping to nudge me in the right direction. Thanks alot. Gratefully, Leilani Buddenhagen "In spite of everything, I still believe that people are really good at heart". --Anne Frank 1929-1944 ################### From: "Jens Rotthauwe" Date: Tue, 20 Jan 1998 11:44:24 +0100 Subject: Superthrive contents ? Hello list ! Does anybody know the active ingredients (and their concentration)of Superthrive ? At what dilution is superthrive used. I guess it probably contains some cytokinin (and maybe some auxin) which is rather inexpensive. Kind regards Jens _____________ ______________________ Jens Rotthauwe Tel.: 0228 /253216 Im Jagdfeld 61 Email: uzsb09@uni-bonn.de 53125 Bonn GERMANY ################### From: Nigel Hurneyman Date: Tue, 20 Jan 1998 10:44:40 -0000 Subject: Re: N madagascariensis No I don't grow any Nepenthes, but I do have a few 'succulents' (mainly Kalanchoes, some of which are in flower at the moment) from Madagascar. The successful regime for N madagascariensis sounds very similar to that which I give the succulents - very open, free-draining growing medium, allow to dry out between waterings and partial shade. Do these plants grow in the same locations in the wild? NigelH ################### From: Nigel Hurneyman Date: Tue, 20 Jan 1998 10:58:52 -0000 Subject: Re: intro, questions and answer Hello Bill, Good to hear from another pygmy grower. In my experience there is no easy answer to your pygmy question. Dormancy and gemmae production both seem to be governed by similar factors; photoperiod, light intensity and temperature. Some of my pygmies reliably go dormant then produce gemmae at the right time, some never go dormant but produce gemmae at the right time, and some do odd things whenever the feeling takes them - ie I have some simultaneously producing gemmae and flowers at the moment. I think I give them reasonable photoperiod and temperature regimes, but I don't think I manage sufficient light intensity during the summer; this probably explains the behaviour of the odd ones, plus the fact that I find some species (eg citrina, sewelliae) very difficult. Good Growing, NigelH ################### From: aquilla2@juno.com (Michael A Sankovich) Date: Tue, 20 Jan 1998 06:05:36 -0500 Subject: re: Carnivorous plants cool site listed, The Official Komando Dear List, Found this listed in another list serve. The kool sites are usually broadcast on her nationally syndicated radio show, and then listed in her weekly E-zine. I guess the subject has caused some national recognition. Michael Sankovich "Ashes to ashes, Dust to dust, If the misery don't get you, The raspberry julep spring tonic, (with the persimmon sap,) Must!" --------- Begin forwarded message ---------- To: Message-ID: <199801141643.JAA255.18@server01.komando.com> ===================================================== The Official Komando Weekly E-Zine for January 13, 1998 ===================================================== What's in This Sporty Issue! ~ Kim's Komputer Column --- Getting SAT Score Help for Free Online ~ Kool Site Preview --- Carnivorous Plants, Study Web, and Skiing Safety ~ Komputer Tip of the Week --- Printing Small Envelopes ~ The Lawyers Made Us Do It and Subscribe/Unsubscribe Details ==================================================== Copyright 1998, The Komando Corporation. All rights reserved. Kim Komando is a TV host, syndicated talk radio host, author, and entrepreneur. You can visit Kim on the Internet at http://www.komando.com .. ***ATTENTION SENIOR CITIZENS*** ===================================================== Kool Site Preview! ===================================================== --}Carnivorous Plants For millions of years animals have eaten plants, but occasionally some plants bite back. Visit this site to learn more about types of carnivorous vegetation and how to grow them yourselves. Who needs a guard dog when you can have a garden full of Venus Flytrap's! http://www.algonet.se/~murevarn/ --------------------------------------------------------------- =================================================== ---------------------------------------------------------------- Internet Home Page: http://www.komando.com ---------------------------------------------------------------- ################### From: Rand Nicholson Date: Tue, 20 Jan 1998 07:10:11 -0400 Subject: Re: Calling Joe Harden >And while I'm at it, I certainly enjoy when "posters" to the list include a >comment as to where they are located. Perhaps more of you (us) could include >a short blurb as to where you're located. Seems like we have quite a >geographicaly diverse membership. > >Thanks, >Craig (just north of Dallas, Texas) > >Craig This is a good idea and can be very helpful. It is quite often done on other lists as well as including the hardiness zone. Kind Regards, Rand Rand Nicholson New Brunswick Maritime Canada, Z 5b ################### From: cfrazie@unm.edu (Chris Frazier) Date: Tue, 20 Jan 1998 04:59:16 -0700 Subject: Re: Nep project/ Electrophoresis CPfolk, First off, I apologize for inadvertantly sending a personal message to Tan Wee Kiat to the list by mistake. I hate it when that happens. In any case, as my email mentioned, I will be out in Singapore and Peninsular Malaysia from about March 1 to the end of July studying Nepenthes and their hybrids for my PhD project. I would be glad to meet with anyone from the region or anyone who might be visiting the region during that time to talk Nepenthes and/or explain more about my study (Joseph, send me your phone # and I'll ring you up when I get there!). As for Jans response to my query concerning any other electrophoretic studies on Nepenthes: I am well aware of Tim Lowrey's work- he is my advisor and the data you refered to is sitting on my desk right now. Unfortunately, his study addressed whether Nepenthes show evidence of gene duplication consistent with polyploidy (they don't) and I am trying to study the genetic population structure in hybrid zones. Much of his data do not have the resolution I need. >What kind of extract are you working with? Which enzymes do you want >to investigate? Do you use antioxidants? Leaf extracts; any that show allelic variation between species and yes. I used an extraction buffer originally designed for spruce that is supposed to be great at cutting through the gunk of even the ickiest of plants (from a protein's point of view). >It frequently helps to add physiological concentrations of coenzymes >of the investigated enzymes to the extraction buffer. Nice idea, but it's a little late to be changing the extraction buffer since I am approximately on the opposite side of the planet from my study plants. The other problem is that while adding coenzymes to the extraction buffer might help resolve one enzyme, they tend to screw up resolution for other enzymes that I might potentially want to look at. >Which detection methods do you (want to) apply? I suppose you use >cellulose electrophoresis for your isozyme analyses. Starch gels. I am getting some better results now, but it is tedious experimenting trial and error style with enzymes and buffers and I have a somewhat limited supply of leaf extract on hand to experiment with. It would save me a lot of time if someone else had already worked out some enzyme systems in this region of plant taxonomy. But, if no one's done it, then I guess I get to be the one to do the grunt work. By the way, there is a really interesting paper on the use of insect nutrition by carnivorous plants in last month's Oecologia (Dec 1, 1977, vol 112(4), starting on page 464). Using nitrogen stable isotope discrimination they (I think it is Schultz et al., I don't have the paper on my desk) were able to determine that N. mirabilis gets 67% of its nitrogen from captured insects. They also report the figures for Cephalotus, Darlingtonia and Drosera. Pretty neat stuff. Chris ----------------------------------------------------------- Chris Frazier Dept. of Biology, UNM Albuquerque, NM, USA 87131 (505) 277-0683 Fax: (505) 277-3781 Homepage: http://redtail.unm.edu/ ################### From: Nigel Hurneyman Date: Tue, 20 Jan 1998 14:55:21 -0000 Subject: Re: Gardenworld CP Forum This may be a two-edged sword. Although it is to be welcomed for increasing the interest in our subject, we should hope that it doesn't turn out to be a competitor for this listserver. Is someone planning to publicise this listserver within the forum? NigelH ################### From: "Haakan Murevaern" Date: Mon, 19 Jan 1998 20:04:57 +0100 Subject: Re: D. petiolaris complex photos / D. neocaledonica Hello Jens and list! >Does anybody know if the photo of D. petiolaris in Pietropaolos book is >correct >(is D. petiolaris always that pubescent ? My plants are not ...) The _Drosera petiolaris_ I have are not exactly like these. Mine have a more flat petitole and not so pubescent. There is a image of it on my page. It is my only _Drosera_ from petiolaris complex. Any comments from some with more knowledge would be appriciated. Happy trapping Haakan Murevaern See my Carnivorous Plants at http://www.algonet.se/~murevarn ################### From: Oliver.Gluch@t-online.de (Oliver Gluch) Date: Tue, 20 Jan 1998 20:47:39 +0100 Subject: seed of P. planifolia and P. lutea Hi folks, I am looking for fresh seed of Pinguicula planifolia and P. lutea. If anyone is interested in a trade, please contact me privately. I could offer plants of many Pinguicula species. Oliver ---------------------------------- Oliver Gluch Lindenallee 44 26122 Oldenburg Germany Phone/fax: +49-441-72618 email: Oliver.Gluch@t-online.de ---------------------------------- ################### From: "Mellard, David" Date: Tue, 20 Jan 1998 14:54:00 -0500 Subject: Re: Anthocyanin free Darlingtonia - nomenclature >I therefore maintain that anthocyanin albinos (which are known in >almost any anthocyanin-containing species) do *not* have any >taxonomic relevance, as long as they do not constitute separated >populations that behave ecologically and chorologically independently >from their ancestral taxon. They can be of horticultural value, but >this is no taxonomic issue. Hi Jan and list members, This conversation has probably already passed me by since I've been out for a week but since it's one that interests me greatly, I'd like to ask a question and point out an observation from my bog. Your point about combining morphology and ecology sounds logical and reasonable. I'm surpirsed sometimes to read that some taxonomists base their decisions just (or maybe I should say predominantly) on morphology when looking at a specimen and deciding where it fits in the taxonomic scheme. Applying your ideas mentioned above, is it right to assume that S. purpurea purpurea f. heterophylla is a distinct taxonomic entity because it predominates in some wild populations of S. purpurea purpurea? Whereas, in other Sarr species with the occassional anthocyanin-free variant in a wild population, such designations are not warranted? Now, I'll add a superficial observation from my outdoor bog. The lone S. purp purp f. heterophylla seems to be in better shape than S. purp purp and S. purp venosa that are growing in the same outdoor conditions. The purp purp and purp venosa species have a few pitchers that are weathered and probably no longer functional while the f. heterophylla pitcher's are in perfect condition. It may be that it's in slightly more protected position in the bog or maybe the lack of anthocyanin allows the chlorophyll to be more efficient at producing energy for the plant.. To end up predominating in a wild population the anthocyanin free mutant must have some type of ecological advantange, which ends up being the justification for giving it taxonomic status. David ################### From: Phil Wilson Date: Sun, 18 Jan 1998 21:45:19 +0000 Subject: Re: intro, questions and answer Hi, > I have two questions. Firstly, I have started growing pygmy sundews >under lights. Can they be grown evergreen, or do they need a dormancy? I >have conflicting information here. I want gemmae, but if I can vary the >growing conditions to my own schedule this will take the hassle out of it! > Some pygmy species can be grown without a dormancy, others will take one whether you give it or not. > Secondly, my Darlingtonias set seed this year, but I am unsure of the >best approach to raising seedlings. Slack simply recommends the same >approach as Sarracenias, and I have had little success tracking down other >recommendations. It seems to me that there are a number of obvious >questions; > >i) Is it best to use live sphagnum? >ii) Do they require a longer (colder?) stratification than Sarracenias? >iii) Since the roots are closer to the surface, and therefore given less >insulation from the growing medium, do you have to be more careful to >limit the root temperature, than in the mature plants? Perhaps there is a >dilemma here - how do the seeds know that the growing season is >approaching if the soil temperature remains low - i.e. is germination >(after stratification) triggered by increased photoperiod alone? > Darlingtonia seed do not require a cold stratification period. They are best sown as fresh as possible. At this time of the year however you are unlikely to get germination unless you give them heat. I use a standard Sarracenia mix to germinate them Darlingtonia is notoriously susceptible to high temperatures. However, you are unlikely to have problems when growing in the UK unless we get an exceptionally hot summer. We tend to get a marked drop in nightime temperatures even during the hottest summers and this seems sufficient to cool things around the Darlintonia roots. I've not found seedlings to be any more suseptible in this respect that the adult plants. Regards, -- Phil Wilson ################### From: "Mellard, David" Date: Tue, 20 Jan 1998 17:08:00 -0500 Subject: FW: Stratification The seeds I sent recently to some members on the list were not stratified. I thought I would post again the email below since I've gotten questions about stratification. David ---------- To: 'CP List' I thought I would let everyone know how I stratify Sarracenia seed in case someone is new to stratification. The basic idea is to incarcerate the seed in a cold, wet environment for a period. I place the seed in a small, sealable container, add a few drops of rainwater, add a couple of sprigs of live sphagnum moss, and then add enough rainwater so that it looks like there's a slight excess of moisture. All this is by the touch, feel, and sight method. I like live sphagnum because it makes me feel that it might keep down microbes, it absorbs lots of water, and it increases the surface area for contact with seed. I like rainwater because I feel that it has the right pH, at least in the beginning. I like extra moisture because it makes me feel like I'm providing enough moisture to get the right biochemical reactions going. I like small containers because if makes me feel like everything in the container is in contact with everything else. Last year, I stratified for about 6 months in the refrigerator and got excellent germination. Based on what I've read this year, though, I plan to stratify for 6 weeks -- another feeling. If you don't have live sphagnum, a paper towel might do. Are you getting nauseating with this feeling stuff. My point is, this is more art than science or rather it's art based on a small knowledge of science. I'm posting this to the list in hopes that other people might share how they stratify and then you can choose what you feel will work for you. David ################### From: "Mellard, David" Date: Tue, 20 Jan 1998 17:48:00 -0500 Subject: Re: stratifying seeds Hi Ross, > Simply place the seed in a paper envelope, immerse in water and freeze > for 36 hours. Thaw and sow (seed can dry again before sowing or place > the whole ice block on top of soil if not using a paper envelope). > Used for Darlingtonia, my observations showed signs of germination > (swelling and splitting of seed coat) after 1-2 weeks. > This freezing method also works for Sarracenia with germination c. > 4weeks later. What an intriguing method for sterilizing Sarr seed. I'll have to do a comparison with the stratifying method I use. I thought it odd in Phil Sheridan's recent paper in the ICPS journal that he got what I thought was a low germination rate. I don't remember the percentage exactly but it was somewhere around 25%. I've never calculated the rate of germination for my method, always being satisfied with a blanket of seedlings in the 3 or 4 inch pot used for sowing. For those of you that received Sarr seed from me, what do you think of reporting back the various germination rates along with the stratification method you used? One of the few things I remember from those horrendous statistics courses was that it's better to use 10 pots with 20 seeds in each pot than 1 pot with 200 seeds. It could turn into one gigantic, nightmarish meta-analysis but it would be fun anyways. Oh, well, the challenge is there. David ################### From: Ross.Rowe@ea.gov.au (Ross Rowe) Date: Wed, 21 Jan 1998 10:35:22 +1000 Subject: Re[2]: stratifying seeds David or others, I have not read Phil Sheridans article, what approach was he taking to stratification? Ross Canberra ______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________ Author: "Mellard; David" at Internet Hi Ross, > Simply place the seed in a paper envelope, immerse in water and freeze > for 36 hours. Thaw and sow (seed can dry again before sowing or place > the whole ice block on top of soil if not using a paper envelope). > Used for Darlingtonia, my observations showed signs of germination > (swelling and splitting of seed coat) after 1-2 weeks. > This freezing method also works for Sarracenia with germination c. > 4weeks later. What an intriguing method for sterilizing Sarr seed. I'll have to do a comparison with the stratifying method I use. I thought it odd in Phil Sheridan's recent paper in the ICPS journal that he got what I thought was a low germination rate. I don't remember the percentage exactly but it was somewhere around 25%. I've never calculated the rate of germination for my method, always being satisfied with a blanket of seedlings in the 3 or 4 inch pot used for sowing. For those of you that received Sarr seed from me, what do you think of reporting back the various germination rates along with the stratification method you used? One of the few things I remember from those horrendous statistics courses was that it's better to use 10 pots with 20 seeds in each pot than 1 pot with 200 seeds. It could turn into one gigantic, nightmarish meta-analysis but it would be fun anyways. Oh, well, the challenge is there. David ################### From: CALIFCARN Date: Tue, 20 Jan 1998 18:41:09 EST Subject: Re: Brocchinea division and Superthrive and growing live sphagnum Howdy folks. Jonathan Mitchell inquired about dividing Brocchinea reducta. In my experience, while offshoots develop occasionally on a plant, like most bromeliads it is after flowering that several offshoots will form rapidly, and the mother plant usually kicks the bucket after several months. I would recommend waiting until the offshoots are at least one quarter the size of the mother plant before dividing them. Before this time, roots may not be strongly developed on the baby plants: I have lost them when I have divided them too early. Concerning another message about Superthrive, the bottles are pre-priced by the Vitamin Institute. Four ounce bottles are $8.45, which is what we sell at California Carnivores. Two ounce bottles are also available for $5.24 (we, however, don't market that size). Concerning the growing of live sphagnum moss from dried long fiber, I usually do this in winter, when the moss grows best. I lay out the moss in seed trays, about two inches deep, and soak it so the moss is virtually waterlogged, and cover the tray with a clear plastic dome. I place the tray under the greenhouse bench, where it is cool and bright. The moss starts growing like crazy in a couple of months. Since I use Mosser Lee moss from Wisconsin, this moss is not really fond of continuously hot conditions, and generally succeeds only in a cooler environment, such as cold and cool greenhouses. By the way, I spend a few pages on the pros and cons of live sphagnum moss in my upcoming book. Peter D'Amato ################### From: L235 Date: Tue, 20 Jan 1998 19:57:58 EST Subject: Re: D. binata germination Peter Lowden asked about D. binata germination times: I found that D. binata seed I planted from New Zealand (thanks, Len!) last year germinated fairly quickly (perhaps a bit slower than you reported ... a week and a half or so for the first sprouts), so it's apparently not unheard of. Since then they have been VERY slow growing, but that's another issue. Jay Lechtman (L235@aol.com) Reston, Virginia, USA ################### From: Richard Brown Date: Tue, 20 Jan 1998 21:32:08 -0500 Subject: Re:Mystery maxima Trent here on Richard Brown's computer. Saw a new Nepenthes being wholesaled out through the usual channels. It is coming from DeRoose, and is their third mass produced Nepenthes clone. It is sold as N. maxima, which it most definitely is not. It is a hybrid. I was looking at some of these plants today trying to figure out what it might be. It looks more like a mirabilis hybrid than a maxima hybrid, in fact, if there is any maxima parentage, it would be a grandparent. Anyone out there in CP-Land have any knowledge as to the origin of this clone? Also as a word of warning to beginners with Nepenthes: sometimes Neps are sold at chain store garden centers with the pitchers dried out beyond recognition. If you encounter any N. maxima plants like this you may not be getting the species you think. While this clone is attractive, and a great beginners plant, it 's no N. maxima. Nothing against the above mentioned nursery, but I wish they would keep the facts straight. Until later, Trent Meeks Pompano Beach, Florida ################### From: Richard Brown Date: Tue, 20 Jan 1998 21:50:55 -0500 Subject: Re: Danser's Synoptic Statement Trent here again. I've got a Nepenthes question for the botanists out there in CP-Land. Danser broke the genus Nepenthes into groups , bases on what I understand to be similarities in morphology: Vulgatae, Montanae, Nobiles, Regiae, Insignes, and Urceolatae. Is this considered valid today? If so, has anyone done any further work on this topic, especially where new species come into the picture? Until later, Trent Meeks Pompano Beach, Florida ################### From: dave evans Date: Tue, 20 Jan 98 21:59 EST Subject: Re: Nepenthes > From: AKIRA1688 > > I just receieved a Nepenthes Ampullaria and Nepenthes Ventricosa. Is > it possible to put them both together in a tank? What temp to keep at? Hi, Yes, you can put them both into the same terrarium. However, since N. ventricosa likes it cool at night (or not hot for more than a couple days) you will have a better looking N.ventricosa if you keep it in cooler temps than N.ampullaria which likes it warm or even hot. Dave Evans ################### From: "Tom Hulse" Date: Tue, 20 Jan 1998 22:01:56 -0800 Subject: Superthrive Jens Rotthauwe wrote: >Does anybody know the active ingredients (and their concentration)of >Superthrive ? .09% Vitamin B1 and .048% Napthyl Acetic Acid. >At what dilution is superthrive used. I use anywhere from 1 drop to 1/4 tsp. per gallon of water everytime I water, depending on the condition of the plant. I recently read the label of Black Flag's B-1 solution at a local home center and it listed the same 2 ingredients, but in higher concentrations, and at a tiny fraction of the cost. Does anyone have any knowledge or opinions on the other mystery ingredients that supposedly make Superthrive so much more expensive? Good Growing! Tom Hulse Marysville, Washington ################### From: AL850R Date: Tue, 20 Jan 1998 22:39:07 -0800 Subject: NEPENTHES ARISTOLOCHOIODES, NEPENTHES INERMIS, ETC. Wassup CP enthusiasts, Yeah, just got 6 Nepenthes cuttings, the rare ones. I received from friend, CP grower: N. Ampullaria Cantley's red (people sell it for $100 everywhere!!) N. dubia (funny upper pitchers and very clean-cut looking) N. inermis (a hella cool looking plant with almost no lid) N. rajah (King Monkey Cup, received as a 5 inch plant) N. burbidgeae (tight looking pitchers) N. talangensis (SLOW grower but very very nice colored pitchers) My friend specializes in only RARE Nepenthes. He's 17, I'm 15. Wanna get plants off him? His comp. crashed, so E-MAIL me for an order!!! ---Plants range from 3" in height to 10" in height------- Here's his grow list and plant prices: N. aristolochoiodes...........$70.00 (very rare, very unusual) N. ampullaria green...........$15.00 (clean looking) N. ampullaria spotted.........$$20.00 (nicely flecked w/red) N. ampullaria Cantley's red...$65.00 (very rare, beautiful) N. talangensis................$45.00 (slow grower, rare, nice) N. rajah......................$15.00 (typical giant, slow) N. ventricosa yellow w/ red p.$5.00 aka ex-japan (typical form) all red form....$10.00 (nice looking) black peristome.$20.00 (hard to find) N. burbidgeae.................$40.00 (nice choice, big pitchers) N. Lowii (both forms).........$30.00 (very unusual shaped urns) N. Eymae......................$65.00 (hard to find, very nice green) N. macfarlanei (white)........$45.00 (nice form, purple form avail.) N. pilosa.....................$35.00 (fast grower, large amounts) N. dubia......................$100.00 (our FAVE!!!! VERY RARE) N. ephippiata.................$55.00 (related to Lowii, larger) N. viellardi..................$15.00 (New Caledonia, green/red) ---More to come----- MANY 'rare' HYBRIDS AVAILABLE, e-mail for prices and info Also, Heliamphora available Thanks, Bruce=CP Grower...... Andrew-helper ################### From: SCHLAUER@chemie.uni-wuerzburg.de Date: Wed, 21 Jan 1998 08:59:29 Subject: Re: Danser's Synoptic Statement Dear Trent, > Danser broke the genus Nepenthes into groups , bases on what I > understand to be similarities in morphology: Vulgatae, Montanae, > Nobiles, Regiae, Insignes, and Urceolatae. > > Is this considered valid today? Not entirely. Vulgatae is certainly a vastly heterogeneous group uniting many unrelated species. Urceolatae are at least disputable. Nobiles includes at least two distinct groups. Regiae is remarkably homogeneous and probably a natural group. > If so, has anyone done any further work > on this topic, especially where new species come into the picture? Rudolf Schmid-Hollinger. I recommend his whole series "_Nepenthes_- Studien" that appeared during the 1970ies. Joe Mullins (Reading, UK) is presently working on a molecular phylogeny of the genus (so far without any published results). Heubl (Munich, Germany) wants to launch a RFLP study on the genus. Kind regards Jan ################### From: Denis Daly Date: Wed, 21 Jan 1998 18:33:56 -0800 Subject: Introduction Hello everyone I just joined the discussion group on 15/1/98 Introduction:- My name is Denis Daly from Sydney Australia. I am the President of the Carnivorous Plant Society of New South Wales (CPS of NSW), based in Sydney Australia. I am also editor of the CPS of NSW's news letter "FlyTrap News". Regards to one and all Denis Daly President of The Carnivorous Plant Society of New South Wales, Sydney Australia. ################### From: Denis Daly Date: Wed, 21 Jan 1998 18:36:54 -0800 Subject: Feeding Carnivorous Plants Hellow All. Feeding Carnivorous Plants:- I have noted the discussions on feeding carnivorous plants. Some of you are noting improvements in your plants growth. I have been advocating fertilising carnivorous plants for some time now. In the case of Nepenthes most people apply reasonable amounts of fertiliser already. Nepenthes are not evaluated in the references referred to below. Being lucky enough to live in Sydney, Australia, my plants are outdoors all year and catch their own prey. The real significance of that fact became apparent only last week when I obtained a copy of a review of Mineral Nutrition of Carnivorous Plants (reference 1).There are two other related articles that were published in CPN in 1992 and 1996. (references 2 & 3) I must say that after reading reference 1 I learnt a lot from them on how I might improve my mineral fertilisation of Carnivorous Plants. Feeding of carnivorous plants is not simply a matter of either either ensuring that plants trap prey or of using very dilute fertilisers. While either helps BOTH together work wonders. Unless you grow hydroponically using distilled water you are fertilising the plants. Not all carnivorous plants have been investigated (references 1, 2, 3) as the scientific community has not assigned a high priority to the study of mineral nutrition of carnivorous plants. The articles are a valable starting point that we laymen (as most of us are) should be gratefully for to improve our techniques for the cultivation of carnivorous plants. References:- 1) "Mineral Nutrition of Carnivorous Plants: A Review." by Lubomir Adamec, of the Institute of Botany, Academy of Sciences of the Czech Republic, Section of Plant Ecology, Dukelska 145, CZ-379 82 Trebon, Czech Republic. PUBLISHED in The Botanical Review Vol. 63 No 3, July to September 1997 pages 273 to 299 inclusive. COPIES may be obtained from the Scientific Publications Department, The New York Botanic Garden, Bronx, NY 10458-5125 USA. (There is a large list of references that would also be worth studying.) 2) "Growth Effects of Mineral Nutrients Applied to the Substrate or onto the Leaves in Four Carnivorous Plant Species" by Lubomir Adamec et al. PUBLISHED on page 18 to 24 of the Carnivorous Plant NewsLetter, Vol. 21 No 1 & 2, March and June 1992. 3) "The Growth of Carnivorous Plants on an Acidified Fen Soil" by Lubomir Adamec. PUBLISHED on page 7 to 10 of the Carnivorous Plant NewsLetter, Vol. 25 No 1, March 1996. Regards Denis Daly dalymob@bigpond.com ################### From: Denis Daly Date: Wed, 21 Jan 1998 18:41:09 -0800 Subject: SuperThrive Hello all, SUPERTHRIVE Some, but by no means all, orchid enthusiasts use SuperThrive in Australia. There are a lot of orchid growers who having tried it think it is a waste of money. I have yet to find a SuperThrive proponent who can demonstrate that their orchids or Nepenthes are bigger and or better than others who do not use SuperThrive. Thus without some proof of benefit matching the price I have not been inclined to use it. It is reputed to have auxins, cytokinins and gibberellins in it. When you start mixing those hormones the ratio between them, season, age of plant, species and/or cultivar of plant and many other factors can influence the result. Other potential components would be amino acids. It might even have renin in it. There could also be small quantities of inorganic mineral fertilisers. Does anyone know exactly what is in it and what concentration each component is? Has anybody analysed it or conducted a comparative growing trial? Does anyone know of other more economical products? Regards Denis Daly dalymob@bigpond.com ################### From: Laurent Legendre Date: Wed, 21 Jan 1998 10:33:55 +0100 Subject: D. neocaledonica, N. vieillardii and New Caledonia Hi everyone, I' m back from a one-month trip to New Caledonia where I saw millions of plants of D. neocaledonica, N. vieillardii and U. uliginosa. Seeds where scarce since all three carnivorous plants where barely starting to bloom. I was however able to collect a few seeds from D. neocaledonica and N. Vieillardii and I'll share them as much as possible since I already have these plants growing at home (seeds collected and planted after my last visit last year). They are of course one year old (not fresh) since they stayed on the plants all that time. I have already promised some seeds to a couple of people and they should recieve them this week. But, by looking at the CP digest of december, I've noticed that many more people are interested in these seeds. So please, email me privately if you're still interested. I took a large amount of pictures of all of these plants and I'll make them available on the Net as soon as possible. I'm not a computer expert but some people have already proposed their help. D. neocaledonica grows from sea level up to 1000m either in running water or where rain falls often. In culture, plant do well at conditions similar to the ones suitable to the northern Australian species. This did not seem to be a variable species even though mature rosettes vary from 1 cm to 12 cm in diameter. This reflects the growing conditions mostly. I've heard of all-green plants growing half-way north on the main island. Sadly, I haven't had any chance to check on that information. N. vieilardii is extremely variable even within one population with pitchers as big as 1l. Plants near Prony have a brown tint which others do not have. A lot of work should however be mdone on Utrics. These are rare and herbarium specimen even rarer. U. uliginosa is really extremely variable from one spot to the next but with a carelull look all plants fit the criteria described by Taylor. Once, I saw a weird utric growing under the water, attached to the soil in a river. It was mostly growing at 5 m below the water surface (as low as could go without air bottles) with a heavy stream. Some plants could be seen at only one meter below the surface and some at 18 m (!?!) if my calculations are corect. I did not collect any specimen because the flow of water was too heavy but I was told that one specimen has been sent to Taylor a few years ago (in alcohol) and he never identified the plant. The stolons are white and the plant has an unusually high number of pitchers. What was funny is that this plant was always growing along with a water fern and a fresh water sponge. Two nice plants too. A last thing, Yan I effectively saw the parasitic gimnosperm you talked about. I saw it at two places gowing on roots or at the base of the trunk of other gimnosperms (always the same tree). This is a wounder island. Happy growing, Laurent Legendre. ################### From: "Mellard, David" Date: Wed, 21 Jan 1998 07:03:00 -0500 Subject: RE: Germination % Hi Matt, Thanks for the update. It's wonderful to know that you got such good germination rates. I think you may be right about the purpurea purpurea seed needing longer stratification. Maybe someone from the list has some experiences with germinating this species that they can share with us. David ---------- To: dam7@cdc.gov Hi, you sent me 6 packs of sarracenia seed a while back. I each different species's seeds in a wrapped up paper towel that was dampened with rain water that had superthrive in it. I then put the paper damp papertowels full of seed into 6 different plastic baggies. I then put all of the baggies into my refrigerator. I used no fungucide. 5 1/2 weeks later I removed the baggies and sowed the seed into 6 tuperware containers full of peat moss, saturated it and waited. 3 weeks later the seeds began to sprout. I am very pleased because I got around 85 % or the seeds of each species to sprout, and I now have pots just full of seedlings putting up their first juvenile pitchers. However I only got about 25% of the S. purpurea purpurea to sprout. All of the other species had around 85% sprout. Im not sure why but I believe it is because this pitcher plant is located farther north than many of the other pitcher plants and its seeds might expect or reqire a longer stratification period. Thanks Again For The Seed, Matt Miller ################### From: Loyd Wix Date: 21 Jan 1998 14:15:32 +0100 Subject: Mail Problems CPers For some unexplained reason I have not been receiving Internet E-mail since the 17th Jan though every thing appears normal again now. If anyone has sent me messages between the 17th and the 20th please remail them. Thanks Loyd ################### From: dmjoel@mail.netvision.net.il (Daniel M. Joel) Date: Wed, 21 Jan 1998 15:45:22 +0200 (IST) Subject: ants in the kitchen >Trent here in the office, once again on Richard's computer. I found >Derek's posting amusing. The sugar ants appear in my kitchen (also in >Florida), and I could never figure out what was attracting them, as I >keep the kitchen spotlessly clean. I tried eveything to get rid of >them, without resorting to strong insecticides. I solved the problem >overnight with a single plant of N. alata. I placed the plant next to >the sink, turned out the lights and called it a night. The next morning >there were no more ants. A single pitcher was full of drowned ants, with >a few stragglers still running around the peristome or clinging to the >lid . The plant went back outside and the kitchen ant problem was >solved. Hi Trend, Your description of ant trapping in the kitchen by Nepenthes reminds me of a similar situation that I had with Sarracenias: Ants in our kitchen tend to go to the pitchers rather than wonder around and stick to our Milk and Honey. I wonder, though, what species of Nepenthes have you used.Could you tell? Shalom from Israel, Danny ################### From: "Michael.Chamberland" <23274MJC@MSU.EDU> Date: Wed, 21 Jan 98 09:18 EST Subject: Re: Anthocyanin-free Darlingtonia > From: "Mellard, David" > Hi Jan and list members, > > Your point about combining morphology and ecology sounds logical and > reasonable. I'm surpirsed sometimes to read that some taxonomists base > their decisions just (or maybe I should say predominantly) on morphology > when looking at a specimen and deciding where it fits in the taxonomic > scheme. This is likely true for older taxonomic work, but most contemporary systematic studies combine other evidence (chemical, cytological, ecological) data with the morphological data, to support a phylogeny. Because some of the other (non-morphological) techniques require specialized equipment, you maynot often find a paper that combines several multiple techniques in one publication. Application of the other techniques may be another study in itself. Look for other studies cited in the morphological papers, since the chemical, cytological, and ecological papers may not always be well known to hobbyists, who as a group usually favor the morphology-based articles. I also think that plants with attractive morphology tend to generate an abundance of morphological studies, to the risk of redundancy. I hope nobody here is thinking of doing morphological study of pretty plants :-) :-) > Applying your ideas mentioned above, is it right to assume that S. > purpurea purpurea f. heterophylla is a distinct taxonomic entity because > it predominates in some wild populations of S. purpurea purpurea? > Whereas, in other Sarr species with the occassional anthocyanin-free > variant in a wild population, such designations are not warranted? I noticed Jan's statement about the distribution of Sarracenia purpurea f. heterophylla a while back, but I was too busy to say something then. As far as I know, the Michigan populations of this plant are the best documented ones. From what I've seen in Michigan, both the red and anthocyanin-lacking forms grow together in the same populations. The only paper I've seen on the distribution of the forma heterophylla is Fred Case's old paper in Rhodora, which also records the two forms growing together. Are there other publications on this plant's distribution which I've missed? Like Jan, I also have problems with the use of the rank of forma. Especially because forma ranking seems to usually be arbitrary. That is, a variant plant will be named as forma usually only if the variation is a conspicuous one in a showy plant, or one of horticultural interest. In most cases I think these variants would be better named as cultivars if they are grown; and if not grown, then referred to as "forms" (in the vernacular) and not given a latin forma epithet. I could go on and on about why forma names are bad, but I won't bore you all. > Now, I'll add a superficial observation from my outdoor bog. The lone > S. purp purp f. heterophylla seems to be in better shape than S. purp > purp and S. purp venosa that are growing in the same outdoor conditions. > The purp purp and purp venosa species have a few pitchers that are > weathered and probably no longer functional while the f. heterophylla > pitcher's are in perfect condition. It may be that it's in slightly > more protected position in the bog or maybe the lack of anthocyanin > allows the chlorophyll to be more efficient at producing energy for the > plant.. To end up predominating in a wild population the anthocyanin > free mutant must have some type of ecological advantange, which ends up > being the justification for giving it taxonomic status. Perhaps your anthocyanin-free plant has a better established root system, or is in a better corner (micro-habitat) in your bog? Difficult to say with a sample size of one! :-) Michael Chamberland ################### From: wOb Date: Wed, 21 Jan 1998 16:04:07 +0100 Subject: CP: Off topic: Mimosa Pudica seeds Hello from France to all CP growers :) I'm back again to bother you all with my Mimosa Pudica.... Just one thing: my beloved plant seems to be almost dead :( Many of you in response to my last message about the sensitive plant told me it is an annual plant so I was warned.... Though my plant is not completely dead (I cut it about 5cm above the ground and it seem to try to send out some new green leaves, maybe with the longer days coming it will survive through winter, I'm looking for seeds to replace it if should die. I've phone the people who sold me plant to ask for seeds and they said they don't seel seeds :( Now for the question: Do anyone know where to get some seeds in France ? Thanks for your help, and sorry for this off topic posting. Happy growing to you all Sincerely Cyril -------------------------------------------------------------------- Cyril 'wOb' Fournillon Drop me a message: cyril.fournillon@inforoute.cgs.fr wOb@mail.dotcom.fr wOb@chez.com Visit my HomePage: http://www.inforoute.cgs.fr/fournill [Voice: +33 1 42 21 78 03] [Fax: +33 1 42 21 76 88] [ICQ: 1397712] -------------------------------------------------------------------- Hi! I'm a .signature virus (mutant version), copy me to your .signature file to join in. ################### From: "Mellard, David" Date: Wed, 21 Jan 1998 10:11:00 -0500 Subject: Re: Anthocyanin-free Darlingtonia Hi Mike, > Now, I'll add a superficial observation from my outdoor bog. The lone > S. purp purp f. heterophylla seems to be in better shape than S. purp > purp and S. purp venosa that are growing in the same outdoor conditions. >>Perhaps your anthocyanin-free plant has a better established root system, >>or is in a better corner (micro-habitat) in your bog? Difficult to say >>with a sample size of one! :-) I agree absolutely about the sample size of one. That's why I said superficial observation. This is an intriguing question, though. Why does the anthocyanin-free form predominate in a few locations in the northern US but not anywhere else or with any of the other species of Sarr. Is it because the anothocyanin-free form gives the plant an advantange in the north but not anywhere else? What's that advantage? Just musing, I'll repeat my earlier point about better energy production. Or maybe, the anthocyanin gives plants better tolerance to heat in the warmer southern US and that's why the sourthern Sarr species don't exhibit populations where anthocyanin-free forms predominate while in the cooler northern US, the presence of anthocyanin is not as crucial. I'm just speculating. Anyone got some facts that could be used to support or refute this idea or offer another explanation. David ################### From: ccp108@juno.com (Randall T. Palmer) Date: Wed, 21 Jan 1998 10:25:27 EST Subject: Re: CP SUPER THRIVE When using SUPER THRIVE on my Venus along with Serra. my plants turn orange and wanted to croke. To off set the acidit nature and nutrualize, I used my 1 tablespoon of Baking Soda, 2 tablespoons of Corn cooking oil in 1 gallon of water and kept watering with it until the orange went away. Although some have had success with SUPER THRIVE on Nepenthes. Be careful. ################### From: "Stefan Ploszak" Date: Wed, 21 Jan 1998 07:35:12 PST Subject: Re: Ants in my Nepenthes Hi Gabriel, > I was wondering what I should do, two of my nepenthes have alot of >ants burrowing in their pots. Is that going to harm them? > > Thanks, > Gabriel A while back, I saw a little thing on ants on the Discovery Channel(maybe someone else on the list saw the same show). It was mentioned that ants don't directly harm plants, but they physically carry scale and mealy bug to your plants. The ants will attach the pest to your plant and let them do their thing. Every once in a while, the ants will "milk" the pest like a cow. It was quite amazing to see the video footage of an ant attaching a mealy bug to a plant and later returning to rob the mealy bug of it's plant nectar. So, get rid of those ants. I'd think about uprooting the plant and letting it sit in water for a while to loosen all the soil away from the roots. You may not have to use any chemical means to kill the ants, but it probably wouldn't hurt. Once you feel your plant is free of the ants, repot it in new soil. Stefan ################### From: "Lindblom, Mats" Date: Wed, 21 Jan 1998 16:59:57 +0100 Subject: Sphagnum Hi=20 I=B4ve noticed some questions about sphagnum moss lately. Here=B4s a = site with some pictures of various types. Unfortunately not in english, but for what it=B4s worth....We have a lot of it here in Sweden.... http://www.nrm.se/kbo/krypt/vitmossa.html.se /Mats ################### From: "Mellard, David" Date: Wed, 21 Jan 1998 11:08:00 -0500 Subject: Re: Ants in my Nepenthes >It was mentioned that ants don't directly harm plants, but they physically >carry scale and mealy bug to your plants. The ants will attach the pest >to your plant and let them do their thing. So, get rid of those ants. Only a few species of ants farm mealy bugs so it may not be necessary to get of your ants for this reason. My Sarr minor made short order of a population of ants that wandered into its terrarium so there are other ways if they keep coming back. David ################### From: -Tom- Date: Wed, 21 Jan 1998 11:13:20 -0500 (EST) Subject: Re: CP: Off topic: Mimosa Pudica seeds Cyril & Anyone who loves Mimosa Pudica, >I'm looking for seeds to replace it if should die. >I've phone the people who sold me plant to ask for seeds and they >said they don't seel seeds :( I have quite a lot of fresh seed available. It is *free to anyone as long as the supply lasts. * Completely free If you have seed to trade, let me know what you have available. Please visit my web page to see if I have other plants/seed you want. OTHERWISE>>> If you have nothing to trade and live in the USA, just send a S.A.S.E. with .55 postage. Outside the USA, please send $1.00 for shipping and padded envelope. My address: GRAPHICMASTERS 236 Basin St. Williamsport, PA 17701 USA Take care & keep on growing, Thomas K. Hayes DANGEROUS PLANTS dangerous_plants@hotmail.com tkhayes@mail.microserve.net http://www.infinicom.com/~thayes ################### From: j.dewitte@t-online.de (Jean De Witte) Date: Wed, 21 Jan 1998 17:46:11 +0100 Subject: maxima Re the _weird_ maxima from De Roose. I remember giving him some seeds four years back, so it could be maxima. Anybody having a picture, please e-mail it (but not larger than 70KB!) Take care, Jean De Witte mailto:j.dewitte@t-online.de home:http://home.t-online.de/home/j.dewitte ################### From: BREWER_CHARLES@ecomail.damneck.navy.mil Date: Wed, 21 Jan 1998 11:53:27 -0500 Subject: Re[2]: Ants in my Nepenthes Ants are sometimes given a bad rap. It's true that they can carry aphids and scales to plants, but they are also a very good source of food for some CP plants like the S. Minor and Cephalotus and some Nephs. Charles Brewer >It was mentioned that ants don't directly harm plants, but they physically >carry scale and mealy bug to your plants. The ants will attach the pest >to your plant and let them do their thing. So, get rid of those ants. Only a few species of ants farm mealy bugs so it may not be necessary to get of your ants for this reason. My Sarr minor made short order of a population of ants that wandered into its terrarium so there are other ways if they keep coming back. ################### From: "Michael.Chamberland" <23274MJC@MSU.EDU> Date: Wed, 21 Jan 98 12:11 EST Subject: Re: Anthocyanin free > From: "Mellard, David" > > > I agree absolutely about the sample size of one. That's why I said > superficial observation. This is an intriguing question, though. Why > does the anthocyanin-free form predominate in a few locations in the > northern US but not anywhere else or with any of the other species of > Sarr. Is it because the anothocyanin-free form gives the plant an > advantange in the north but not anywhere else? What's that advantage? Well, having hiked around a good deal in prime habitat for this plant (if it really has a "prime habitat"), I would say it doesn't predominate where it occurs. There are a few bogs which have a high proportion of anthocyanin-lacking plants. But the number of red-flowered plants is also high, and plus or minus equal in number to the white-flowered forms. (this is just a very general count based a couple bogs which may actually be the same bog system.) What I find interesting is that the red-flowered plants growing in these bogs have very little red pigment in their leaves. This suggest that ALL the Sarracenia in these bogs have reduced anthocyanin production. I have never seen white-flowered S. purpurea in a population of "normal" red-flowered plants. I bet this can happen, but perhaps as a result of different genetic controls than exhibited in the bogs I've seen. I should point out though that my observed sample size is small, and perhaps one! ;-) As for the advantage of lacking anthocyanin? I don't think there needs to be an advantage. It only needs to have no disadvantage. It fact, the variant condition probably needs only be NOT lethal for the plants to survive! The plants might not even be pollinated and may not set seed... if more white-flowered plants are spontaneously produced from red-flowered parents (heterozygotes?), then white-flowered individuals will be found. Michael Chamberland ################### From: "Haakan Murevaern" Date: Wed, 21 Jan 1998 18:50:17 +0100 Subject: SV: D. petiolaris complex photos / D. neocaledonica Hello Jens! > >The _Drosera petiolaris_ I have are not exactly like these. Mine have a > >more flat petitole and not so pubescent. > > > Could it be that your plant is D. dilatato-petiolaris ? > Did you grow it from seed ? I did not grow it from seed. I have bought it from Nature et Paysages under the name _D.petiolaris_. They also sell D. dilatato-petiolaris. Best regards Haakan Murevaern See my Carnivorous Plants at http://www.algonet.se/~murevarn ################### From: "Ernest Ming" Date: Wed, 21 Jan 1998 18:39:10 -0000 Subject: d.petiolaris could anybody also advice me on how to grow D Petiolaris from seeds? and the requirements there after, Thanks in advance. Ernest. ################### From: saharris@iafrica.com (Eric Green) Date: Wed, 21 Jan 98 19:01:57 GMT Subject: North eastern South Africa fieldwork Greetings all, Robert Gibson here. I have just return from an interesting few days in north eastern South Africa where, thanks to Dot and Mark Cappaert and Lis Rodriqus, I had the pleasure of seeing some native carnivorous plants in the wild. Drosera madagascariensis var. major. This robust, green form of D. madagascariensis was seen at two spring heads around Pretoria. They grow gregariuosly in stretches of open water and water covered rock. Some plants were submerged and were anchored very poorly to the thin soil. Drosera burkeana. Seen at one site where it grew in abundance. It looks very like D. rotundifolia. Utricularia gibba. Formed a green mat, and living mulch in shallow, slow moving water over sandy soil. Utricularia bisqamata. Abundant at both sites near Pretoria. The scapes grow to 30 cm tall amongst sedges. The flowers have a purple brown colour to the free edge of the lower lip. A cleistogamous form was also found at one site but was not common. Utricularia livida. Found at one site in the northern Drakensburg. Scapes, to 5cm tall, with up to 3 flowers. Generally hidden by sedges. Many promising sites were also seen but they will need to wait until my next visit to South Africa. For more information on plants in this area I suggest you contact Dot Cappaert, Secretary of the South African Carnvorous Plant Society, PO Box 1378, Krugersdorp, 1740. South Africa. Kruger National Park is certainly worth a visit if you are in the area. Cheers and great cp growing, Robert ################### From: "Marcelo Andre' Karklin Fontana" Date: Wed, 21 Jan 1998 18:43:52 -0200 Subject: Source for peat moss Fellow CPers, Does anyone knows of a commercial suplier that sells peat moss and perlite (or at least peat moss) worlwide and doesn't requires those huge minimum orders ? Thanks in advance (and sorry if this is an off-topic message). Marcelo Andre' Karklin Fontana makf@unisys.com.br ____________________________________________________________ Carnivorous Plants - http://www.mcef.ep.usp.br/carnivoras/ ################### From: Ross.Rowe@ea.gov.au (Ross Rowe) Date: Thu, 22 Jan 1998 08:22:20 +1000 Subject: Re[2]: D. binata germination I have not really checked it out systematically, but I wonder if warm soil temperatures are more important. My observations are that fresh seed will germinate soon after falling and stored seed will germinate without specific stratification treatment. Compare with the infamous D. capensis! Ross Canberra ______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________ Author: L235 at Internet Peter Lowden asked about D. binata germination times: I found that D. binata seed I planted from New Zealand (thanks, Len!) last year germinated fairly quickly (perhaps a bit slower than you reported ... a week and a half or so for the first sprouts), so it's apparently not unheard of. Since then they have been VERY slow growing, but that's another issue. Jay Lechtman (L235@aol.com) Reston, Virginia, USA ################### From: CALIFCARN Date: Wed, 21 Jan 1998 17:28:51 EST Subject: This so-called "N. maxima" Howdy, folks, Peter D'Amato here. Trent's message caught my attention, about this new mass produced Nepenthes marked "maxima". By the way, Trent, I'd rather be in southern Florida than dank northern california this winter, maybe sometime you'll invite me down to visit! A friend gave me a big pot of a plant he got from Florida, and it was tagged N. maxima 'superba'. Is this the same one you're talking about? While healthy, the plant was obviously grown in low light conditions, and the pitchers not well developed, but it's obviously not maxima, and I won't be able to guess until it repitchers in my conditions. (I also transplanted it from the dense peat mix it was in). Anyway, if you figure out what this thing is, I'd be interested in knowing. On a similar subject, has anyone found out what this N. "hybride" is, this Holland produced mass marketed Nepenthes? Mike Ross told me last summer that when he visits the place in Holland where this plant is produced, he'll try and find out its heritage. I'm rather impressed with it. Another friend, Curtis, picked one up last spring and gave it to me when it was a feeble rosette barely four inches across. It's now large with six inch pitchers, and actually looks like it may be similar to this N. maxima 'superba'. I truely agree with the comments of others who wished these wholesalers would at least have the foresight and courtesy to put real names of their plants on these mass-produced Nepenthes. Th-th-th-th that's all folks. ################### From: AL850R Date: Wed, 21 Jan 1998 13:24:02 -0800 Subject: Nepennthes Ampullaria Hi CP lovers, My Nepenthes Ampullaria that I received is beginning to wilt, any information? I sprayed it with dilluted SUPERTHRIVE about 10 times. I use reverse-osmosis water and humidity 84%. The temperture I keep it in ranges about 92*F in morning/afternoon tops, and night lowest 65*F. Any suggestions? My freind that specializes in Nepenthes is not available at UCBerkeley. I can't seem to get a hold of him, so I'm asking u guys!!! -Thanks- ################### From: "the drake" Date: Wed, 21 Jan 1998 19:50:02 -0700 Subject: Cambrian Carnivores - I made contact! and apology I received a letter and my money order returned to me by Cambrian Carnivores in the mail a few days ago. My order had gotten delayed by the postal service during the Christmass rush, and was not delivered to Cambrian Carnivores until recently. Since my money order was in US dollars, it could not be processed by Cambrian Carnivores, so everything worked out well since I was not sure when I sent it if they would be able to cash it and also wanted to change my order after I had sent it. I apologize for any showing of frustration in my postings asking how to contact Cambrian Carnivores. Having ordered from them in the past and been pleased, I was mostly worried that it was a problem with the postal service, and did not know about the recent email problems that Cambrian Carnivores had been having (which is why I had not received replies to my emails to them). Peter Cole, the owner of Cambrian Carnivores, sent me a very nice letter with my money order, and I appreciate his quick reply soon after receiving the postal-service-delayed order that I sent. Thank you! :) Drakeofusa@mailexcite.com Free web-based email, Forever, From anywhere! http://www.mailexcite.com ################### From: RSbra123 Date: Thu, 22 Jan 1998 01:49:01 EST Subject: H. nutans problem I have something growing(?) on some of the juvenile pitchers of my H. nutans. It's a brown scum-looking coating that I've seen to a small extent since I've had the plants, about 2 years now. It's getting worse on one plant. I've tried spraying with Orthenex a few times and it *seemed* to help a little but didn't stop it. I sprayed it once with Benomyl once with no effect. I have photos of two plants at http://members.aol.com/RSbra123/cp.html . If anyone can identify it I'd appreciate being told what it is and how to get rid of it. Or, what sort of laboratory could I bring it to for analysis? Thanks. Ron Sbragia ################### From: j.dewitte@t-online.de (Jean De Witte) Date: Thu, 22 Jan 1998 18:33:01 +0100 Subject: rare nepenthes Re rare nepenthes Looks like our bigmouth Volvo850 has changed names but forgot to change his ID. Would like to see a CITES (if he knows what that is) from him re his rajahs and co. Further, for somebody spitting at other peoples prices, wouldn't hurt to look in the mirror. Harley rules! Jean De Witte mailto:j.dewitte@t-online.de home:http://home.t-online.de/home/j.dewitte ################### From: Ide Laurent Date: Thu, 22 Jan 1998 18:14:33 +0100 Subject: Byblis stratification ? Hi List I've received some Byblis seeds (hi Kenneth !). It's Byblis liniflora and I'd like to know if they are requiring any kind of stratification, and if a 'cooking time' is necessary as for B. gigantea. Laurent in Belgium Web site at http://www.dvddd.com/CP ################### From: "kamikaze" <011114@hillstrath.on.ca> Date: Thu, 22 Jan 1998 13:42:20 -0400 Subject: VFT germination Dear list, This year I bought a VFT in late December and did not put in into formancy. Instead I placed it in a heated terrarium. The VFT is now flowering....I want to harvest seed at the end of the season....do I need another VFT to pollinate the plant or should I just leave it alone? adwait ################### From: Thomas Nowell Date: Thu, 22 Jan 1998 15:13:15 -0500 Subject: Re: VFT germination At 10:57 AM 1/22/98 -0800, you wrote: >Dear list, > >This year I bought a VFT in late December and did not put in into >formancy. Instead I placed it in a heated terrarium. The VFT is now >flowering....I want to harvest seed at the end of the season....do I >need another VFT to pollinate the plant or should I just leave it >alone? > >adwait > I have one flowering now too. Please answer to the list. Thanks. Thomas Nowell Malden, MA USA ################### From: "Stefan Ploszak" Date: Thu, 22 Jan 1998 12:27:41 PST Subject: Re: Ants in my Nepenthes Charles wrote: >Ants are sometimes given a bad rap. It's true that they can carry >aphids and scales to plants, but they are also a very good source of >food for some CP plants like the S. Minor and Cephalotus and some >Nephs. I agree that the plants can all benefit from a steady supply of ants, but is it a good idea to have a colony of ants nesting in your pots? Having had infestations of scale and mealy bug in the past, I'm not about to let a potential source for the pests near any of my plants. If left alone, these pests will quickly spread to adjacent plants and eventually kill them. I'll go to the pet shop and buy a bunch of crickets, instead of feeding with ants. I've seen your growlist Charles, you have many rare and one-of-a-kind plants. Are you saying that if a colony of ants wanted to call one of your pots "home," you wouldn't take exception? I still say, "prevention is best, kill the ants!" All the best, Stefan ################### From: iwilliams@dist.gov.au (Ian Williams) Date: Fri, 23 Jan 1998 09:26:24 +1000 Subject: Pollination and germination of VFT seeds It is wonderful to be able to respond to a question to which I know the answer. During our last southern Spring October, I allowed about 5 of my VFTs to develop flowers. I was careful to cross fertilise the plants which were from different sources. I thne allowed the flower pods to mature and then after they had gone black, I obtained about 150 seeds (i didnt count to find the precise number). No stratification is required (see Ross Rowe's recent posting on this issue). I then sowed the seeds in my glass house onto peat moss contained in brocholi boxes (polystyrene boxes) and germination was achieved between 4-6 weeks later (I was away during the time the seeds came up). I now have about 70 - 80 healthy VFT seedlings about 1 cm in diameter. A few extra stragglers have also appeared steadily as well. if you have specific varieties of VFT eg Royal red, I recommend you obtain extra plants through leaf cuttings. Ian Williams Canberra, Australia ################### From: "Andy Falshaw" Date: Fri, 23 Jan 1998 12:01:13 GMT+1200 Subject: bugs, pygmies Hi folks. I have some little bugs crawling round in some of my pots. They are 2-3mm long, and <1mm wide. They are very shiny, they look silver, but not like silverfish, more like wing cases of little flies. Are these the dreaded fungus gnats?? If so, what damage do they do, and what should I do to be rid of them?? My d. scorpiodes are putting out what look like aerial roots. They are red, coming off the stems, and where they hit soil they are going in. Anyone seen this before? Two other lots of pygmies are just finishing flowering - should I cut off the dead flowers? Will I get viable seed? Are they likely to have cross pollinated, being sat next to each other, so I'll get nitidulaxallontostigmataxpulchella? Andy ################### From: "Sundew Sundew" Date: Thu, 22 Jan 1998 15:16:42 PST Subject: re: Heliamphora rot hi there, your heliamphora rot sounds (and looks) like something that effected my heterodoxas shortly after i got them way back in the 1980s :) i believe it was joe mazrimas who suggested i pull them out of their pots and soak the entire plants, roots and all, for several hours(???) in a water and fungicide mix. i just got back into CP after several years so could be wrong but i think the fungicide was benomyl. thats a fungicide, right? that of course was my only experience using fungicide, id never had any other problems. just be careful when you move the plant - make sure you exercise extreme caution so you dont break any roots or pitchers as theyre VERY fragile. good luck! matt ps. i'm still looking for some small heliamphora species or hybrids. anyone have any extras?? ################### From: "Capestany" Date: Thu, 22 Jan 1998 18:38:52 -0800 Subject: Nepenthes pitcher questions Somewhere I read that if you take a cutting from the top of a Nep with upper pitchers, the resulting plant will never produce lower pitchers... does anybody know if this is true? I was also wondering if there is any way to get older and taller Nepenthes to start producing lower pitchers again, since I don't find the upper pitchers very attractive :-) Thanks for any suggestions! dr.cap Alexandria Virginia, USA ################### From: Perry Malouf Date: Thu, 22 Jan 1998 19:12:17 -0500 (EST) Subject: Re: Nepenthes pitcher questions > Somewhere I read that if you take a cutting from the top of a Nep with upper > pitchers, the resulting plant will never produce lower pitchers... does > anybody know if this is true? I was also wondering if there is any way to > get older and taller Nepenthes to start producing lower pitchers again.. I have found that apical cuttings of Nepenthes (upper growth with upper pitchers) often keep producing upper growth when they start growing vines from the dormant buds. Once this upper growth has become well established with a good root system, it often produces a basal growth from the crown. The basal growth produces lower pitchers. One way to encourage basal growth is to allow Nepenthes vines to hang over the edge of the pot so that the growth tip is below the root level. This technique has worked for many of my plants, encouraging them to produce new basal shoots. Regards, Perry Malouf ################### From: MARK POGANY Date: Thu, 22 Jan 1998 20:17:01 -0500 Subject: A lighting survey To all Nepenthes growers, How about a quick survey? 1. What type of lights do you use to grow neps in? 2. Photoperiod? 3. Lighting output used for highlanders/ lowlanders? 4. Any past results from various lighting experiments? Please post any and all results to this list. Mark Pogany Cleveland, Ohio markp@crscms.com ################### From: Bruce R Salmon Date: Fri, 23 Jan 1998 14:46:18 +1300 (NZDT) Subject: Rare Nepenthes >Re rare nepenthes >Looks like our bigmouth Volvo850 has changed names but forgot to change his >ID. >Would like to see a CITES (if he knows what that is) from him re his rajahs >and co. Further, for somebody spitting at other peoples prices, wouldn't >hurt to look in the mirror. >Harley rules! > >Jean De Witte >mailto:j.dewitte@t-online.de >home:http://home.t-online.de/home/j.dewitte I would also like to know where they get plants like N. dubia and N. aristolochioides! Sounds like a scam to me. Bruce 13 Rothery Road Manurewa Auckland New Zealand ################### From: Bruce R Salmon Date: Fri, 23 Jan 1998 14:47:07 +1300 (NZDT) Subject: RECIPIENTS CP 13 Rothery Road Manurewa Auckland New Zealand ################### From: Richard Brown Date: Thu, 22 Jan 1998 21:41:24 -0500 Subject: Re:Ants in the kitchen >What species of Nepenthes have you used. Could you tell? Hello Danny, Trent here in the office. The most successful Nepenthes as far as catching insects, for me here in south Florida, is N. alata. Since I have several different varieties of alata, and all are prolific growers and pitcher producers, it is the plant I used in the kitchen. The particular plant I used came from Bruce Bednar, and he got it from the University of Washington (pacific Northwest, not the U.S. capitol). Even though it is a highlander, it has no problem with the terrible summer heat of south Florida. Ants love it. Until later, Trent Meeks Pompano Beach, Florida ################### From: Richard Brown Date: Thu, 22 Jan 1998 23:15:44 -0500 Subject: Re:so called N. maxima Hey Peter! Trent once again at Richard's place, "borrowing" the WWW. We're supposed to be working on a new story, but sometimes there are, well, diversions. So. You seem to have one of these N. "maxima" plants. Mine has nice large pitchers that are most definitely not maxima. I have three different varieties of maxima now, and have seen about a zillion pictures. The peristome, neck, and lid are all wrong. More like a mirabilis. The red tessellations on the pitcher are maxima-like. So far, I have only seen lower pitchers, averaging about five inches in length. It is a handsome, vigorous Nepenthes hybrid. Jean DeWitte also made comment about giving some seed of N. maxima to DeRoose, but I doubt if this plant came from that seed. So far, I haven't raised this "mystery maxima" during the summer, and that will tell me if it is in any way highland in nature. Right now , I'm experiencing 60 degree F nights and 85 degree F days with humidity between 60 and 80 percent. No heaters, evaporative pads, auto misters. Al naturale...All Nepenthes are happy. Hope your friend's visit to Europe answers some questions. Until later, Trent Meeks Pompano Beach, Florida. ################### From: "Judy Clark" Date: Thu, 22 Jan 1998 14:13:17 -0500 Subject: Propagation of Mexician PINGS Hello all With the onset of colder weather and lower light levels its time to propagate the Mexician Pinguiculas . First of all you will have noticed that they srank down three or four inches .This is there winter rosetts or resting buds. Besides removing plants that have clumped up into seperate pots I grow them in shallow flats so I can have more room to grow a entire season without having to be moved again.First dig up the ping carefully (the roots are very fragile) I use a pencil or like object next you carefully break off the lower leaves with a downward motion lay them top side up in a 8" pot at random over the soil surface . Do NOT bury them they will rot very fast . Put them in the best light available and around 60 to70 degrees .In about two weeks you see small plantlets growing from the ends .At theend of the first year they will be about as big as a US half dollar.It takes two years to become adult plant and the cycle becomes complete and you can do it all over again . They do respond to fertlizer very well. Mist sprayed with Miracid ect. one half tablespoon per gallon mist about every two weeks while actively growing.The soil mix I use is 2 parts vermiculite 1part peat moss .I might add ,the adult plants sould be barely moist during this winter growth period. These are wonderful litte plants that if you have alot of them will be in FLOWER all year long.They always bring a smile to my poor face in the dead of winter when everythang else is asleep. David Crump@Carolina Carnivorous Gardens....... ################### From: Gordon Wells Date: Fri, 23 Jan 1998 10:22:48 +0100 Subject: Nepenthes labelling by wholesalers Hi, On Thu, 22 Jan 1998, Peter D'Amato wrote: > I truely agree with the comments of others who wished these > wholesalers would at least have the foresight and courtesy to > put real names of their plants on these mass-produced Nepenthes. I visited a large CP wholesaler in Holland recently who supplies a major part of the CP imported to Spain. Their Nepenthes are typically labelled as "Hybride", or "Maxima", or "Alata". When I asked why they didn't use more specific (and accurate) labels, they said it was because it simply costs too much to have 10 or 15 different labels printed, so they just make 3 or 4. Although they usually know the heritage of most of the varieties they produce, if none of the specific labels fits a particular plant, they just put a "Hybride" label on it and away it goes. After all, the vast majority of their buyers couldn't care less about the exact species name. Gordon ----------------------------------------------------- Gordon Wells Instituto de Robotica e Informatica Industrial Edificio Nexus, planta 2 Gran Capitan 2-4 Tel: (343) 401-5805 Barcelona E-08034 Fax: (343) 401-5750 SPAIN e-mail: gwells@iri.upc.es ----------------------------------------------------- ################### From: Denis Daly Date: Fri, 23 Jan 1998 16:11:37 -0800 Subject: Ants in your pants Dear List members Nepenthes love to eat ants. So if there are ants crawling into your pitchers rejoice. They won't leave. But if they are building a nest in your potting mix they will probably physically damage the roots. Repot the plant. (80% live sphagnum 20% peat in a wick fed self watering pot.) Don't bother with dead sphagnum. Nepenthes are tough and provided that they are rested in the shade for a few days and introduced to 50% to full sun over a week or so, as you would with any plant, no problems. If you are growing indoors under weak lights do not worry about reducing the light. If under really bright lights (400 to 1000W plus high pressure discharge lamp or similar) move them back under full light over 3 days to a week. Regards Denis Daly ################### From: Denis Daly Date: Fri, 23 Jan 1998 22:24:14 -0800 Subject: Byblis liniflora Hi list Byblis liniflora is a annual. You must pollinate between flowers by using a small brush. Unless the seeds are soaked in gibberellic acid (GA3) germination will be very poor or could take up to 12 months. Use 100 g/L strength GA 3. Take 0.2 mL and top up to 20 mL water. Soak seeds for 24 hours. Sow on top of seed raising mix. (Fine sand peat.) Water tray. Humid atmosphere but wit air movement. Prick seedlings out, sow into coarse sand 75% and peat 25%. Stand in water tray. Do not use sphagnum on this CP. I got heaps up this way a few years ago from one plant that arose from one untreated seed that itself took 12 months to germinate. (The remaining thousand or so untreated seeds never germinated.) And then disaster struck:- I gave them away except one plant. It got eaten off at the base. Now I don't have Byblis liniflora. Forget the fire, forget the smoke use gibberellic acid. Same applies for B. gigantea. Regards Denis Daly ################### From: Denis Daly Date: Fri, 23 Jan 1998 16:38:04 -0800 Subject: N. amphularia and Superthrive Ron Sbragia Dear Ron Bad news, I'm afraid. Hormones should only be given to plants in minute quantities on infrequent occasions or they will kill the plant. If it was OK before you applied lots of superthrive then the problem could be too much superthrive. (Another reason why it is important to know exactly what is in superthrive.) One of the reasons I hesitate to use it besides the expensive> I don't know what's in it. But I use auxins on Nepenthes. However if it went crook soon after you got it then it may be either: 1) A plant that has not been properly rooted after it came out of tissue culture. 2) A cutting that has not been allowed to form sufficient roots. See my article on Buyer Beware under another cover. 3) The stem has rotted off. Only solution is to take it out of the pot and look at the roots, feel the stem to see if any section feels hollow (not in a green section of stem) to confirm this. Take cuttings immediately. Place cuttings in water until turgor returns. Put water in pitchers if they are empty. Slit base of cutting, apply IBA (idole 3 butyric acid. It is an auxin.) in a gel, leave dry (several hours ... cutting will wilt again), place in water again for a week to let callus form, then place cutting into perlite in a wick type self watering pot to strike. High humidity over green cutting helps. To reduce leaf surface on the cutting cut out the sides of the leaf but leave the mid rib and pitcher in place. Put water in pitcher. In sydney with a water conductivity of around 180 micro siemens per cm I would use tap water. But I do not know anything about your water and so reverse osmosis water is probably needed. Regards Denis Daly ################### From: Denis Daly Date: Fri, 23 Jan 1998 17:25:35 -0800 Subject: Dionaea Flowers "kamikaze" and all Dionaea pollen in any one flower does not "ripen" at the same ime as the stigma in that flower is receptive. Once a day take a brush and rub it in each open flower. Cycle around all open flowers twice. Trying to bend the scape will surly break it. Thus two plants are often used as one pot can be put on theground and the other moved so as to rub flower into flower. But it is nit necessary to have two plants. Regards Denis Daly ################### From: "Carl Strohmenger (HSC)" Date: Fri, 23 Jan 1998 06:39:30 -0500 (EST) Subject: nitidulaxallontostigmataxpulchella On Thu, 22 Jan 1998, Andy Falshaw wrote: > Hi folks. > [ stuff deleted ] > Are they likely to > have cross pollinated, being sat next to each other, so I'll get > nitidulaxallontostigmataxpulchella? > > Andy Whoa! Take it easy Andy. You might have just started a new thread to construct the newest, biggest, most unpronounceable, etc, hybrid name in all of CPdom. ################### From: "Sundew Sundew" Date: Fri, 23 Jan 1998 10:11:18 PST Subject: Has anyone else received the seed I sent? Hi folks, I'd appreciate it if everyone who has received seed from me let me know that it's arrived. Thanks! Matt ################### From: BREWER_CHARLES@ecomail.damneck.navy.mil Date: Fri, 23 Jan 1998 14:53:48 -0500 Subject: Re[2]: Ants in my Nepenthes A man after my own heart, Actually, I agree with you 100%. Although I am not able to carefully check each plant daily, I have noticed that some of my harder-to-fed plants had acquired a pitcher full of ants. I feel regardless how careful you pick your outside spots to grow CPs in, Ants and ether pesky insects will always find their way to them. I just wish ants did not bring their cattle(Aphids and Scales) with them. By-the-way, the only plants that I found ants, spider mites, aphids and mealy bugs on were the plants that I'm keeping for you. For some reason, my plants are clean as a whistle:)...All kidding aside, This spring, I do plan to experiment with feeding Cephalotuses ants. I understand Cephs feed well on ants. Charles ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Charles wrote: I've seen your growlist Charles, you have many rare and one-of-a-kind plants. Are you saying that if a colony of ants wanted to call one of your pots "home," you wouldn't take exception? I still say, "prevention is best, kill the ants!" All the best, Stefan ################### From: bergrd@valunet.com (Richard T. Berg) Date: Fri, 23 Jan 1998 22:23:19 GMT Subject: Flowering VFT... Group, Got a quick question... One of my VFT's is starting to send up a flower stalk now and I'm in debate whether to allow it to grow and flower with = the possibility of acquiring more seed in the long run, or rather snip it to allow better trap development... I'm torn because I've yet to see a VFT flowering and since this is my first time (only 2 months into CP's!) it's really exciting to see results of my labor these past 2 months... I guess I'm doing something right ;) Just looking for pro's and con's about the issue... I have 12 other = VFT's in the same terrarium but only one (the oldest) is showing the flower stalk... If those of you who say 'Snip It!' could you please tell me = when.. I"ve read ASAP or maybe after a certain height... thanks for the info up front...=20 BTW: David Mellard... The money for seed is in the mail!... =3D) ... Richard=20 ---------------------- Richard Berg Salem, Ohio ---------------------- ################### From: ricell@juno.com Date: Fri, 23 Jan 1998 15:38:36 -0700 Subject: Re: Nepenthes labelling by wholesalers Gordon Wells wrtoe: >Although they usually know the heritage of most of the >varieties they produce, if none of the specific labels fits >a particular plant, they just put a "Hybride" label on it >and away it goes. After all, the vast majority of their >buyers couldn't care less about the exact species >name. This sounds quite believable to me. I guess I'm glad they are at least labelling it as a hybrid. The Drosera I have seen for sale (in those pots with the domes) are ALWAYS labelled D. rotundifolia. The company (Gruber's I think?) has been using the same label since at least the 70's when I got into this hobby. So far I have seen D. capensis, D. adelae, D. spathulata, and D. capillaris in those pots but NEVER D. rotundifolia. Richard Ellis "ricell@juno.com" Boulder, CO ################### From: "TheEdge" Date: Fri, 23 Jan 1998 17:37:39 -0000 Subject: Nepenthes Madagascariensis available for trade, numerous plants Dear subscribers of the CP list, A local nursery has recently gotten a fresh shipment of the-recently-heavily-discussed-on-the-list Nepenthes Madagascariensis. In the past I have bought one of their last remaining Nepenthes Madagascariensis, and if the new shipment is like the old one, the plants are nearly a foot tall, some with 2 or 3 shorter plants growing from the same base as the larger one, for only $4.95 US. As money is sort of limited right now, and since I already have one of their Nepenthes Madagascariensis, I was not going to purchase any. However, if anybody out there has any of the more rare Nepenthes or possibly Heliamphora, I might be interested in purchasing one of the Nepenthes Madagascariensis to trade to you if you would like one (provided that the ones that the nursery just got are the same as the ones that they had before for that price, of course). Since I have recently been spending quite alot of money on my collection, I can really only buy the Nepenthes Madagascariensis to trade for something that is rare and irrestible to pass up. They also told me that they have some for $14.95, and these may be quite large if the one foot tall ones are still $4.95. If you would like to buy one instead of trade, I suppose I can act as a non-profit middleman and send you one if you agree to pay for the plant and the shipping and handling (I will include the receipt for the plant to assure you of my honesty). All of this is only possible if when I go to the nursery the plants are healthy, of course. I MIGHT (and that is a very big might!) be able to get a picture of the plants if people are really interested. Let me know what you think. Sincerely, Matt - TheEdge@amdyne.net ################### From: Phil Wilson Date: Fri, 23 Jan 1998 21:40:21 +0000 Subject: Re: Byblis liniflora Hi all, > >Unless the seeds are soaked in gibberellic acid (GA3) germination >will be very poor or could take up to 12 months. > >Use 100 g/L strength GA 3. Take 0.2 mL and top up to 20 mL water. >Soak seeds for 24 hours. >Sow on top of seed raising mix. (Fine sand peat.) Water tray. >Humid atmosphere but wit air movement. Prick seedlings out, sow >into coarse sand 75% and peat 25%. Stand in water tray. Do not use >sphagnum on this CP. > While using gibberellic acid for germination of B. gigantea is well known I have never heard of anyone using to germinate B. liniflora and I suspect your seeds germinated in spite of the treatment not because of it. I have found the best method to germinate B. liniflora seed is to pace it in a terrarium and turn the heat up to full. You need about 100% humidity and a temperature of around 40C (about 100f I think). Under these conditions the seed will germinate very quickly - I have had seed germinate in five days. Once germination has been acheived I gradually reduce the temperature to something slightly less tropical, say 25-30C but still keep the humidity well up. I find the small seedlings incredibly slow at first but as they get bigger they rapidly pick up pace. Once the plants to about 2-3 inches they are big enough and the weather is warm enough to transfer them to normal greenhouse conditions. In the UK the trick is to get the plants growing early enough to flower and set seed before the end of summer. This means in practice sowing the seeds in late January/early Feb. Any earlier and the light levels are not enough to get the plant growing well. To get seed I find I need to have the plant in flower by mid-late June. In B. liniflora ssp liniflora the pollen is readily produced and can be transfered to the stigma by a small paint brush or cocktail stick. However, the larger growing ssp occidentalis will only release pollen when touched with a tuning fork or something similar. In this respect the flower structure is similar to B. gigantea. I also find that plants set seed more reliably when cross pollinated rather than selfed. Seed will also germinate in normal greenhouse conditions but definitely takes longer. In fact I had plants for several years which were growing weed-like in other pots. For soil I use a standard 3:1 peat and sand mix. You can also get away with small pots (3" size are ideal) as the plants do not appear to have a very large root system. Hope this helps. -- Phil Wilson ################### From: dave evans Date: Fri, 23 Jan 98 19:15 EST Subject: Re: Byblis liniflora Dear Denis, > Byblis liniflora is a annual. You must pollinate between flowers > by using a small brush. So far I've had these plants for less than a year, but I haven't had to pollinate the flowers myself and they are indoors, away from drafts and pollinators, producing lots of seed. > Unless the seeds are soaked in gibberellic acid (GA3) germination > will be very poor or could take up to 12 months. My plants are from seed from ICPS. They came up in two weeks without any treatment... > I got heaps up this way a few years ago from one plant that arose > from one untreated seed that itself took 12 months to germinate. > (The remaining thousand or so untreated seeds never germinated.) Perhaps there is more than one type B.liniflora?/? > And then disaster struck:- I gave them away except one plant. It > got eaten off at the base. Now I don't have Byblis liniflora. Well, when the seeds ripen I'll send some into the ICPS seed bank, or other seed banks. Probably keep some for trades too. Dave Evans ################### From: "TheEdge" Date: Sat, 24 Jan 1998 03:01:18 -0000 Subject: Superthrive - False advertising? Superthrive - False advertising? While I will not confirm or dispute the effectiveness of Superthrive, I do wonder how the company avoids false advertising lawsuits and/or penalties. The label claims that 50 hormones are in Superthrive, yet only one, NAA, is actually listed as an ingredient. This hormone does indeed promote growth in plants. I do not think that there even are 50 plant hormones, and if there are, I doubt I have ever seen a list of 50 hormones that are applied to plants to enhance growth. Does anybody know what the mystery 49 hormones are? Matt - TheEdge@amdyne.net ################### From: Rand Nicholson Date: Sat, 24 Jan 1998 06:06:44 -0500 Subject: Re: Superthrive - False advertising? >Superthrive - False advertising? > > While I will not confirm or dispute the effectiveness of Superthrive, I >do wonder how the company avoids false advertising lawsuits and/or >penalties. > The label claims that 50 hormones are in Superthrive, yet only one, >NAA, is actually listed as an ingredient. > This hormone does indeed promote growth in plants. I do not think that >there even are 50 plant hormones, and if there are, I doubt I have ever seen >a list of 50 hormones that are applied to plants to enhance growth. > Does anybody know what the mystery 49 hormones are? > >Matt - TheEdge@amdyne.net Perhaps you should check with the Olympic drug screening committee to see if any Chinese Nep. growers are using Superthrive. Kind Regards, Rand Rand Nicholson New Brunswick Maritime Canada, Z 5b ################### From: KILSMOOTH Date: Sat, 24 Jan 1998 08:40:32 EST Subject: El Ninio,and CP dormancy Hello list!! Bri here...Well,El Ninio is really screwing things up here in good old Fl.All of my US. Pings are prolifically flowering....about 3 mos. too early!!Also,all of my Spring blooming orchids are blooming...Interesting...I've managed to keep the Sarrs dormant by keeping them in full shade and keeping the soil drier..I know they have,nt had nearly enough rest yet...I have lots of S."alba" forms and i'm afraid of them flowering one day,and freezing the next....Neps are loving it !! All of the Highlanders and hybrids of highland parentage seem to love the drastic temp. changes,of course.....Any other growers having this problem??? Enjoy CP! Brian in Fl. . P.S. I'll have some fresh P.ionantha and P.Lutea......and P.planifolia seed for trade soon....Any good Drosera seed going around??Let me know...Bri :) ################### From: Ken Skau Date: Sat, 24 Jan 1998 11:00:05 -0500 Subject: B. liniflora I have grown Byblis linaflora for over 10 years and have never used gibberellic acid or any other artificial means of germinating the seeds. I sow the seeds on top of peat in the early spring (early April in Cincinnati, Ohio) and keep them evenly moist. I have never determined the germination rate because I get such masses of plants that it is difficult to count them all. Some of them are probably from seeds that have dropped to the medium from the past year's plants. The seeds will sprout as the peat warms and takes only a couple of weeks. The plant is an annual and will produce lilac flowers in the late summer. The flowers may be cross-fertilized, self-fertilized or just left alone and they will produce copious amounts of seed. This past year I was harvesting seeds into December, but we had a mild Autumn that allowed the plants to survive longer than they normally would. Kind Regards, Ken Skau ################### From: "Haakan Murevaern" Date: Fri, 23 Jan 1998 22:13:05 +0100 Subject: Re: VFT germination Hello list! If you want seed from your VFT. You must pollinate the VFT but could use a flower from the same plant. I dont know if you could use the same flower. Best regards Haakan Murevaern See my Carnivorous Plants at http://www.algonet.se/~murevarn ################### From: Derek Glidden Date: Sat, 24 Jan 1998 17:18:55 -0500 (EST) Subject: sand and Byblis I have two questions: 1) In the Tampa, FL area, does anyone have any suggestions on where to get silica sand? I've tried hardware stores, garden stores, plant nurseries and even a hydroponics shop that a nursery guy recommended and nobody has it and nobody knows where to get it. 2) There has been a lot of talk about Byblis linearis on the list the past couple of days. I recently received some B.gigantea seed from the ICPS seedbank - do the same techniques hold for this species or is it an entirely different beastie? Also, unrelated, the Tampa Bay Carnivorous Plant Club is now online! Check out www.tbcpc.org! It's still in its infancy, but it will soon be a force to be reckoned with! :) -=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-= Derek Glidden http://www.illusionary.com Illusionary.com Home of the Pagan Resource Site Web development, database, graphics and general plumbing Linux, FreeBSD, Apache, MySQL, PostgreSQL, PHP (Say No to NT!) ################### From: "Justin Arthur" Date: Sat, 24 Jan 1998 14:27:38 PST Subject: Dormancy and Stratification of CPs Hello Cpers Becuase of the recent mild weather patterns in central North Carolina I have some concerns with my not so dormant CP. First of all none of my plants have gone into dormancy except my Drosera Capensis. I need to know the dormancy requirements (especially temperature) for the following plants: \225Dioneaea Muscipula \225Sarracenia Leocophyllia \225Pinguilica (uknown species) \225Sarracenia Purrpera \225Drosera Capensis I also have some drosera seed (probably rotundifolia) that I don't know how to stratify. Thanks Justin T. Arthur Chapel Hill, NC 27514 United States Of America P.S. Thanks to those who have sent replies to my e-mails in the past. ################### From: ricell@juno.com Date: Sat, 24 Jan 1998 17:18:40 -0700 Subject: Re: sand and Byblis Derek Glidden writes: >1) In the Tampa, FL area, does anyone have any suggestions >on where to get silica sand? I've tried hardware stores, >garden stores, plant nurseries and even a hydroponics shop >that a nursery guy recommended and nobody has it and >nobody knows where to get it. Around here you can get it at Home Depot which I believe is a national chain. >2) There has been a lot of talk about Byblis linearis on the >list the past couple of days. I recently received some >B.gigantea seed from the ICPSseedbank - do the same >techniques hold for this species or is it an entirely different >beastie? I think this is an entirely different beastie. Check out Brian Cochran's article in CPN volume 24, #1, p. 6 "My Experiences in Growing Byblis gigantea from Seed" Richard Ellis "ricell@juno.com" Boulder, CO ################### From: "Bernadette Png" Date: Sun, 25 Jan 1998 13:42:09 +0800 Subject: Hello! Hello everyone, I've just subscribed to the CP list, and would like to say HI to everyone on the list. Yesterday I bought my very first VFT at a dept. store. I'm so excited, but I have to say I'm totally GREEN when it comes to plants. Today my bro and I put a couple of ants on the fly trap. The ants just took a stroll along the triggers and then walked away. One even walked into the flytrap, but escaped unharmed. The leaves didn't even move, or close. What could be the problem? I'm learning as I go along, and hope that I can have a meaningful relationship with my VFT. Regards, Bernie -- Bernadette Png Ginny (Bull Terrier) Pokie (VFT) hoglet@cyberway.com.sg http://www.cyberway.com.sg/~hoglet Singapore ################### From: buckman@interaccess.com Date: Sun, 25 Jan 1998 13:48:04 -0600 (CST) XSubject: Hello! Hi , recently andrew posted a list of nepenthes addressldl68888@pacbell.net, this address does not work if your out there, please contact me.Tom.buckman@interaccess.com ################### From: MARK POGANY Date: Sun, 25 Jan 1998 17:55:05 -0500 Subject: Where to find silica sand Derek, In reference to your question about silica sand- try the following. Look in the yellow pages under building materials. The garden store up here in Cleveland gets their shipment from a wholesale supply place that stocks brick, sand, concrete, etc. I buy them in 50-pound bags for $3.95. Silica sand is used for sandblasting, so I guess you could also try that title in the phone book as well. The stuff I have is coarse and slightly damp while in the sealed bag. Be careful if you find the dry, small grained variety. The dust can cause lung damage if not handled properly. Mark Pogany markp@crscms.com ################### From: MARK POGANY Date: Sun, 25 Jan 1998 18:05:46 -0500 Subject: D. linearis help I have recently received some Drosera linearis seed. Right now its stratify'in away in the fridge. This plant grows in alkaline conditions. For those on the list that cultivate this species I have some questions: 1. What media do you use for this plant? Should I mix in some hydrated lime to boost the pH? 2. Should I treat it like D. rotundifolia (temps, light, media wetness)? 3. Any other special techniques that I should know about? Thanks for any replies! Mark Pogany Cleveland, Ohio markp@crscms.com ################### From: Tony Camilleri Date: Mon, 26 Jan 1998 10:06:49 +0930 Subject: Nepenthes sex ? To all Nepenthes enthusiasts, a general question. Is anybody aware of a method to detect the sex of a Nepenthes plant before they flower? ################### From: bergrd@valunet.com (Richard T. Berg) Date: Mon, 26 Jan 1998 03:32:43 GMT Subject: Advice Needed on New Plants... List, I've been doing my homework on CP's and I feel I'm ready to take the plunge into a new plant... I've been growing some VFT's for 2 months and it's been great but as you all well know the need for something new is overwhelming... Any recommendations on a second plant type?... I was thinking something in the Drosera family... I would really like to get into the 'pitcher' family and have some seed on the way... Is there really a deemed 'Second Plant' that would be suitable... As of now I have limited space but will soon be purchasing a larger (55 gallon) terrarium to house all my CP's from now on... Please let me know either via email or the list! Thanks ONCE Again! ... Richard ---------------------- Richard Berg Salem, Ohio ---------------------- ################### From: esikes@anet-dfw.com Date: Sun, 25 Jan 1998 21:47:19 -0600 (CST) Subject: Home Bussiness We understand that you are interested in, or are already involved in marketing. We are searching for people to get into the highest paying plan in the world. Contact me for all the details. I have 28yrs. in the business world. 1-(972) 557-0955 Ed Sikes You may also visit my website at: http://www.admaxsilver.com/sikes/ **(( You have recieved this message because you have visited one of our **business opportunity sites in the past. If you have recieved this message in error or simply wish to be removed from our list please reply with the word "remove" in the subject header. We apologize for any inconvience if we have sent this to you in error.))** ################### From: Derek Glidden Date: Mon, 26 Jan 1998 00:08:08 -0500 (EST) Subject: Cool hydroponics store I'm sure there are plenty of places like this, but this weekend, while combing the area for plant supplies, I ran across a cool store called "Worm's Way" that deals in Hydroponics and Home Brewing supplies. (What a combination.) Among other really cool stuff, they have HID lighting systems, moving track lighting, really cool self-watering planters, Superthrive and a plethora of natural and chemical pest control stuff. Their catalogue says, "With Retail Stores in Indiana, Florida, Massachusetts and Missouri!" The Tampa, FL store is on 56th street, just south of Hillsborough Ave. It was a neat place to visit and I fully intend to go back and indulge myself on a couple of expensive planters for my home some day soon. You can get them to send you a catalogue by calling 800-274-9676. -=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-= Derek Glidden http://www.illusionary.com Illusionary.com Home of the Pagan Resource Site Web development, database, graphics and general plumbing Linux, FreeBSD, Apache, MySQL, PostgreSQL, PHP (Say No to NT!) ################### From: "Bernadette Png" Date: Mon, 26 Jan 1998 15:27:39 +0800 Subject: Repotting of VFT? Hello all, I would like to find out what is the appropriate pot size for a young VFT? Thanks. -- Bernadette Png parrotzfreak@usa.net http://www.cyberway.com.sg/~hoglet Ginny (Bull Terrier) Pokie (VFT) Singapore ################### From: ss66428 Date: Mon, 26 Jan 1998 20:12:21 +0900 Subject: Re: Byblis liniflora To all, Only B.liniflora subsp.liniflora does not need to be hand pollinated and the seeds germinate well without any help. B.liniflora subsp.occidentalis, B.liniflora "Darwin" and B.gigantea, as far as I know, never produce seeds without the external help of an 'artificial polinator' in cultivation. Tuning forks and cross-polinization are commonly suggested. Best Wishes, Fernando Rivadavia Tokyo, Japan ################### From: bs Date: Mon, 26 Jan 1998 08:06:02 -0500 Subject: Madagascariensis and then some Several questions here: I also have an N. madagascariensis which I purchased about 6 months ago along with an N. sanguinea and N. mirabilis. The N. mad is doing well, producing larger leaves (5" long) and looks nice, but hasn't developed a new pitcher since I got it. In the same terrarium, the N. sang. is slower growing, but is producing pitchers, and the mirabilis is going crazy. I removed the plants from their original 2 1/2" pots to check the roots and was surprised. The roots of the N. mad (potted in a rather dense ball of sphagnum) were coiled around the bottom of the pot. The N. sang. roots, on the other hand, (which had a lighter soil - w/ some perlite, sand, and vermiculite I think) only went about an inch into the soil. The mirabilis had roots about out to the edges of it's pot (again, in the lighter soil mix) Is it time to repot any of these - Especially the N. mad? Has anyone else seen this kind of difference with regard to root development and soil type - or is it more likely a species difference? Any help is appreciated -- brandon http://oucsace.cs.ohiou.edu/personal/bschanba.html ################### From: "Tony D. Meadors" Date: Mon, 26 Jan 1998 05:37:24 -0800 Subject: REMOVE -----Original Message----- To: Multiple recipients of list > >We understand that you are interested in, or are already involved in marketing. We are searching for >people to get into the highest paying plan in the world. Contact me for all the details. > I have 28yrs. in the business world. > >1-(972) 557-0955 >Ed Sikes > >You may also visit my website at: http://www.admaxsilver.com/sikes/ > >**(( You have recieved this message because you have visited one of our business opportunity sites >in the past. If you have recieved this message in error or simply wish to be removed from our list >please reply with the word "remove" in the subject header. We apologize for any inconvience if we >have sent this to you in error.))** > > ################### From: Perry Malouf Date: Mon, 26 Jan 1998 08:52:32 -0500 (EST) Subject: Re: Madagascariensis and then some Brandon wrote: > ....The roots of the N. mad (potted in a rather dense > ball of sphagnum) were coiled around the bottom of the pot. The N. > sang. roots, on the other hand, (which had a lighter soil - w/ some > perlite, sand, and vermiculite I think) only went about an inch into the > soil. The mirabilis had roots about out to the edges of it's pot > (again, in the lighter soil mix) > Is it time to repot any of these - Especially the N. mad? There are as many philosophies of repotting as there are hobbyists. Here are a few of my observations. First, I've had Nepenthes do okay for a couple of years when the potting medium was densely packed with roots. Might they have done better if they had been repotted sooner? I don't know. But repotting such a dense root ball is difficult if you have to remove the old potting media; removing the old media will involve breaking up that tight root ball and damage to the finer roots is unavoidable even when you're careful. Repotting is called for when the old potting media is going bad. Even when the media is still good, repotting is a good idea if the plant is sucking the media dry fairly quickly. This means that the plant is trying to grow; those roots are pulling as much water out of the (small) pot as they can, so you notice the media going dry sooner. > Has anyone else seen this kind of difference with regard to root > development and soil type - or is it more likely a species difference? Off hand I'd say it's a species difference. I keep all my neps in the same potting media. There are extreme differences in root production from one species (and hybrid) to the next. Regards, Perry Malouf ################### From: "Semanchuk, Phil J" Date: Mon, 26 Jan 1998 09:56:40 -0500 Subject: RE: Dormancy and Stratification of CPs > Becuase of the recent mild weather patterns in > central North Carolina I have some concerns with my > not so dormant CP. First of all none of my plants > have gone into dormancy except my Drosera Capensis. > I need to know the dormancy requirements (especially > temperature) for the following plants: > Dioneaea Muscipula > Sarracenia Leocophyllia > Pinguilica (uknown species) > Sarracenia Purrpera > Drosera Capensis Hi Justin, I'm in Durham, NC -- just up the road from you. I have all my Dionaea and Sarracenia (flava, minor & leuco) outside and they are most certainly in dormancy. On my way to work this morning I poked my finger at the sphagnum in the pot containing my S. leuco and it was frozen solid. Sphagnum gets kind of spiky when it is frozen this hard. The folks on the radio tell me it was 27 degrees. Where are you keeping your plants? I don't know much about Pings and Drosera but the others can certainly be kept outside during the winter in this area of the country. We are in the natural range for S. pupurea and almost within the range of Dionaea. I don't think they'd appreciate being thrust outside now because it would be a bit of a shock to them, but they need the cold in addition to reduced light levels to enter dormancy. Hope this helps, Phil URL du jour: http://www.squirrelnutzippers.com/ ################### From: "Carl Strohmenger (HSC)" Date: Mon, 26 Jan 1998 11:18:22 -0500 (EST) Subject: Re: Cool hydroponics store In addition, they have a web site - go to: http://www.wormsway.com/ It is an interesting place to visit, although I've found that they are rather pricey. But they have a lot of plant oriented stuff in one place, so you don't have to go chasing around to find odds-n-ends. - Carl On Sun, 25 Jan 1998, Derek Glidden wrote: > > I'm sure there are plenty of places like this, but this weekend, while > combing the area for plant supplies, I ran across a cool store called > "Worm's Way" that deals in Hydroponics and Home Brewing supplies. (What a > combination.) Among other really cool stuff, they have HID lighting > systems, moving track lighting, really cool self-watering planters, > Superthrive and a plethora of natural and chemical pest control stuff. > Their catalogue says, "With Retail Stores in Indiana, Florida, > Massachusetts and Missouri!" The Tampa, FL store is on 56th street, just > south of Hillsborough Ave. It was a neat place to visit and I fully > intend to go back and indulge myself on a couple of expensive planters for > my home some day soon. You can get them to send you a catalogue by > calling 800-274-9676. > > -=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-= > Derek Glidden http://www.illusionary.com > Illusionary.com Home of the Pagan Resource Site > Web development, database, graphics and general plumbing > Linux, FreeBSD, Apache, MySQL, PostgreSQL, PHP (Say No to NT!) > > ################### From: "Mellard, David" Date: Mon, 26 Jan 1998 11:13:00 -0500 Subject: FW: question Which brings us back to genetics..... >Talking of which, how do polyploids fit into the genetic story? For >instance, if a triploid has three sets of chromosomes when the sex cells >split do you get one gamete with two chromosomes and one with one set, >or am I way off course? Hi Phil, I think you're on the right track. Here's my best shot. Let's see if I can do this visually: triploid = XXX all other chromosomes (GG, SS, TT, etc) are the appropriate double set GG represents a double set of chromosomes, all the other double sets of chromosomes behave in the same manner as GG during reductive division to form the gamete cell. Diploid germ cell divides reductively to form a haploid gamete. G1G2 + X1X2 division to gametes G1X1 or G1X2 or G2X1 or G2X2 You can count the chromosomes here (diploid germ cell is showing 4 chromosome; haploid gamete is showing 2 chromosomes). I think the chromosome number for many of the cp's are around 10. In the example above, the 4 haploid gametes will be found in the ovary. Another set of haploid gametes will form the pollen. Each of the above gametes has the appropriate number of chromosomes and upon pollination (the fusion of an ovary with a pollen) will form a diploid germ cell that becomes the seed and later the plant. Now for the plant with triploid chromosomes. Triploid germ cell divides reductively to try to form a haploid (?) gamete. G1G2 + X1X2X3 division to gametes G1X1X2 or G1X2X3 or G1X1X3 or G2X1X3 or G2X1X3 or G2X1X3 Either the above gametes are not live or they cannot fuse with a normal gamete (G1X1 or G1X2 etc) to form a live embryo (seed). I'm not sure which is the case. Someone else know? However, it does work whenever the chromosome number is even, for instance in tetrapoloid plants. Duplicating the chromosomes so that there is a double set of the same chromosome X1X1X2X2 results in live diploid cells. I certainly don't mind someone else adding to this to correct it or to make it more clear. The bottom line is that a triploid plant is not fertile while plants with even numbered (tetraploid, octaploid) chromosomes are fertile. That begs the question, how do you get triploid plants? I think I know the answer but will hold off for fun to see if any of you can figure it out. Now, you Ph.D geneticts types hold onto your answer to see if someone else gets it. David ################### From: Ide Laurent Date: Sun, 25 Jan 1998 12:48:44 +0100 Subject: Various Hi list First of all, thanks for the numerous answers about B. liniflora. Someone was talking about D. scorpioides sending a new, red root to the soil. This is normal, I have the same phenomenon here at home, and I've seen the same by another grower. I asked him if I could cut the first 'trunk', but it's not a good idea. Yesterday I finally discovered a surprise from my Nepenthes 'ventricosa' burkei. This plant has sent new vines, as the first one is 'falling' from the pot, and this is the reason why - as it has been frequently explained these last days. I've tried to make some 'aerial cuttings', attaching a bag of wet peat on the mother vine, and trying to see if some roots has came in, I saw at the top my first Nepenthes flower. I guess the new conditions for the plant - growing over an heating source for now - have helped for this. Now, I'm unable to see until now if this will be male or female flowers, but anyone who have, in Europe, pollen or a female flower should keep my message in mind. It's for the next days. Laurent in Belgium. ################### From: John Walker Date: Mon, 26 Jan 1998 13:16:11 -0700 (MST) Subject: Re: Cool hydroponics store I ran across a cool store called "Worm's Way" that deals in Hydroponics and Home Brewing supplies. (What a combination.) Among other really cool stuff, they have HID lighting systems, moving track lighting, really cool self-watering planters, ***************** What a combination indeed, Smoke your bud's and drink them too. I just wonder whether of the likes of DEA & ATF are watching this opperation. DEA tried to subpoena a local "hydroponic" store's customer list. Nothing to worry about if your not doing anything illeagal. John in Phoenix ################### From: Russell Hansen Date: Tue, 27 Jan 1998 08:10:44 +1000 (EST) Subject: Help re: Plants That Prey Hi Everyone, I've been looking on the web for info on a book 'Plants That Prey' by Rick someone (Erickson, Ericka?). Can anyone give me an overview, if it's considered a good book, and how much I should pay for a second hand copy? Thanks very much. Russell Hansen | WWW: http://www.powerup.com.au/~rhansen QLD Department of Education | email: Russell.Hansen@qed.qld.gov.au Brisbane, Australia | or: rhansen@powerup.com.au ################### From: "Semanchuk, Phil J" Date: Mon, 26 Jan 1998 17:40:36 -0500 Subject: RE: Repotting of VFT? > I would like to find out what is the appropriate pot size > for a young VFT? Bernadette, VFTs don't like to have their roots crowded. I keep mine in pots that are about 8 inches (20cm) deep and 5 inches (13cm) across. This is plenty of room for one large VFT. I've got another pot of the same size with 3 VFTs in it and they need to be repotted -- their traps are growing into one another. Hope this helps, Phil ################### From: dave evans Date: Mon, 26 Jan 98 17:38 EST Subject: Re: Re: VFT germination > If you want seed from your VFT. > You must pollinate the VFT but could use a flower from the same plant. > I dont know if you could use the same flower. > > Haakan Murevaern Yes! Dave E. ################### From: Susan Ziegler Date: Mon, 26 Jan 1998 18:53:27 -0600 Subject: re: silica sand I noticed someone mentioning silica sand... I work at a hardware store/garden center that is part of the True Value chain of stores in the USA. The silica sand is most COMMONLY called White sand.. so I suggest going to the nearest hardwarestore/garden center (HOME DEPOT is probably a good place...) and ask any of the people there for WHITE SAND... I guarantee that they will probably know exactly what you are talking about then ;) Susan ################### From: "CP-MAN" Date: Mon, 26 Jan 1998 19:53:01 -0500 Subject: Eric Green Hello fellow cp growers, Eric Green or somebody who knows his e-mail can you you let me know what it is. I have not talked to him since last summer and I lost his e-mail.Or Eric Green if u are out there please e-mail me. Also anyone who has heliamphora seed (not hybrids) for sale can you let me know how much. I am am really looking for enough for a flat ,but really any amount will do. Happy cping, Robert Hood 5807 Fox Brair road Midlothian ,Virginia 23112 U.S.A ICQ# something-ner-other(does anyone really use ICQ anymore?) web-page: http://www.geocities.com/RainForest/4776 My web page has not been updated in a very long time. Blah,blah,blah ################### From: Matt Miller Date: Mon, 26 Jan 1998 20:44:00 -0800 Subject: CP seedling pictures Hello fellow CPers, I have just finished typing up a new section for my web page about the propagation of carnivorous plants. Now I would like to add some pictures to spice things up a bit, however I do not have a scanner ( nor do I have pictures of alot of the things I am describing ). So I was wondering if any of you out there could let me use some of you pictures? Heres what I am looking for: Pictures of seedlings from the genuses: -Dionaea -Drosera -Sarracenia -Nepenthes -Pinguicula -Utricularia -Heliamphora -Darlingtonia -Cephalotus ... yeah I know pretty much all of them, But if you have any of these pictures please e-mail them to my e-mail address at: nuclei@paonline.com Also if you have any pictures of other things like leaf cuttings or division for any of the above families please feel free to send these as well because they would also be very helpful. If you have a CP home page that you would like a link to also send its url along and Ill put in a link. Any pictures would be greatly appreciated... Thank You, Matt Miller Oh the web site is located at: http://www.paonline.com/mrmiller/main.htm ################### From: "Jim & Karla (c223@rollanet.org)" Date: Mon, 26 Jan 1998 21:07:48 -0500 Subject: Picture page Hi, Does CP Digest have a "picture page" on the web? What is the address? Also is N. ventricosa a species or hybrid? Sincerely Jim Farrelly ################### From: dave evans Date: Mon, 26 Jan 98 23:18 EST Subject: Re: D. linearis help Hello Mark, (re:D.linearis) > This plant grows in alkaline conditions. For those on the list that > cultivate this species I have some questions: > 1. What media do you use for this plant? Should I mix in some hydrated > lime to boost the pH? Wouldn't some limestone soil conditioner do the job? > 2. Should I treat it like D. rotundifolia (temps, light, media wetness)? > 3. Any other special techniques that I should know about? Well, it has a very northern range and hence a very short growing season. Three or four months in growth then dormany for the rest. You'll have to put in your fridge because winter in the US will be too short for them. Dave Evans ################### From: dave evans Date: Mon, 26 Jan 98 23:58 EST Subject: Re: Nepenthes pitcher questions > I was also wondering if there is any way to get older and > taller Nepenthes to start producing lower pitchers again, since > I don't find the upper pitchers very attractive :-) Hello, I feel it depend on the species. N.lowii has better looking upper pitchers, so does N.venticosa. N.ampullaria and N.rafflesiana, on the other hand, have great lower pitchers. Dave Evans ################### From: Nigel Hurneyman Date: Tue, 27 Jan 1998 11:03:11 -0000 Subject: Re: bugs, pygmies Hi Andy, Your D scorpioides is entirely normal - in fact it sounds as though you are taking good care of it. The reasons were explained to me in a lecture which specifically discussed Drosera drummondii (now Drosera barbigera). In habitat, the surface temperature can get to 120F, killing the main stem of upright pygmy sundews. An inch or so above the sand the temperature is about 20F lower and the dormant top growth can last out until cooler, wetter times. The top growth will then put out aerial roots which push through the sand until they hit water (the water table from granite run-offs is often only an inch below the surface at this time of year). The pygmy then goes through the normal gemmae/growth/flowering cycle until the next summer. (Laurent - there are good reasons for not cutting the main stem in the wild because it supports the live part of the plant in the cooler air, but I don't see why you shouldn't cut it in cultivation, other than as a commemoration of the plant's age). I thought that seed production in pygmies in cultivation was governed by how close the male and female flower parts are - close together and an accidental jolt could knock some pollen across. All my smaller, more primitive plants (occidentalis, pygmaea) readily set seed. However, as shown in a paper reviewed by Jan in CPN, some pygmies are not self-compatible (mannii). It would be interesting to know whether this is a function of how 'unprimitive' the plants are. My D pulchella are very prolific self-seeders and my D nitidula ssp allantostigma are vary rare self-seeders. I don't know the chromosome counts but crosses between the nitula complex and pulchella are possible. I would have thought that you would be unlikely to get any hybrids just from the plants being sat next to each other unless you gave nature a hand with a paintbrush or flying insects had ready access to both sets of flowers at the same time. However, if I'm wrong, please can I secure a place high in the queue for spare gemmae of your hybrid! Regards, NigelH ################### From: "Marco Lichtenberger" Date: Tue, 27 Jan 1998 13:36:29 MET-1MEST Subject: Re: Propagation of Mexician PINGS Hi. I find your essay about the propagation of pings quite interesting, because i'm growing these plants for more than seven years. > With the onset of colder weather and lower light levels its time > to propagate the Mexician Pinguiculas . Because i had no information about Pinguicula or any other carnivorous plant when i bought my first moranensis i tried out the best way to propagate them with single leaves, cuttings, etc. i finally came to the conclusion that under my growing conditions (Germany) the best time for propagation is May to June when the plants "awake" and start to get their carnivorous leaves. I only use the first winter-leaves and put them to the terrarium of my Nephentes (of course in seperate pots filled with fertilized peat and sand).Two or three months later they are transferred to single pots and treatet like the adult plants. They are nearly all flowering in the following flowering period in December and January and now they are even as big as the adult plants. Though i wasn't successful to get seeds at all. Does anyone know how to pollinate these plants, at least the "everyday" moranensis, esseriana and gypsicola ? Also i would be pleasant to know if anyone has experience in growing plants of the kind of primuliflora, my young plants grow next to my Nepenthes, but as soon as they have flowered the first time they rot. Thanks and good growing. Marco. ################### From: Nigel Hurneyman Date: Tue, 27 Jan 1998 12:23:37 -0000 Subject: Re: Byblis liniflora (Darwin) I have some Byblis liniflora ssp liniflora from Darwin and they readily set seed. Is Byblis liniflora ssp occidentalis also found around Darwin? If so, that would explain Fernando's observation. I was interested to read Phil's observation that B liniflora ssp occidentalis flower structure seems to be intermediate between B liniflora ssp liniflora and B gigantea. I understand that hybridogenic origin has been ruled out. Is there a case for raising this to species rank ie Byblis occidentalis? NigelH ################### From: -Tom- Date: Tue, 27 Jan 1998 09:21:24 -0500 (EST) Subject: Re: Propagation of Mexician PINGS Marco, >Also i would be pleasant to know if anyone has experience in growing >plants of the kind of primuliflora, my young plants grow next to my >Nepenthes, but as soon as they have flowered the first time they rot. What medium do you grow them in - I have the best luck using a mix with at LEAST 50% sand. Perhaps more. While I keep them wet during the actual flowering period, I let the water completely disappear from the trays to simulate the *somewhat* dryer conditions of summer. Hope this helps. Take care & keep on growing, Thomas K. Hayes DANGEROUS PLANTS dangerous_plants@hotmail.com tkhayes@mail.microserve.net http://www.infinicom.com/~thayes ################### From: "Stefan Ploszak" Date: Tue, 27 Jan 1998 06:42:56 PST Subject: Re: FW Question >That begs the question, how do you get triploid plants? I think I >know the answer but will hold off for fun to see if any of you can >figure it out. How about during meiosis, a set of the chromosomes(for some unknown reason) don't separate? The result is a haploid cell with both copies of a particular chromosome and another cell with no copies. When the haploid cell with both copies of the chromosome fuses to another haploid cell with one copy of the chromosome, you get the triploid cell. How's that for a stab in the dark, Stefan ################### From: "kamikaze" <011114@hillstrath.on.ca> Date: Tue, 27 Jan 1998 12:15:13 -0400 Subject: VFT pollination Dear list, I was wondering if pollen from "shark teeth" VFT was transferred to a normal VFT plant, what would the offspring look like? I have heard that inbreeding in animals is detrimental and increases suseptibility to diseases, would this be the case with plants also? I know that many plants are often self pollinated, would this make the offspring plants weaker? Many plants try to avoid self pollination...maybe for this very reason. thanks adwait ################### From: ALVIN.CHIN@chase.com Date: Tue, 27 Jan 1998 13:37:23 -0500 Subject: EMAIL PLEASE STOP SENDING ME EMAIL AT THIS ADDRESS. I AM LEAVING THIS FIRM THANK YOU ################### From: "Mellard, David" Date: Tue, 27 Jan 1998 13:40:00 -0500 Subject: Re: FW Question Hi Stefan >That begs the question, how do you get triploid plants? I think I >know the answer but will hold off for fun to see if any of you can >figure it out. >>How about during meiosis, a set of the chromosomes(for some unknown >>reason) don't separate? The result is a haploid cell with both copies of >>a particular chromosome and another cell with no copies. When the >>haploid cell with both copies of the chromosome fuses to another haploid >>cell with one copy of the chromosome, you get the triploid cell. I hadn't thought of that, but I'm pretty sure that I remember it from my geneticts classess. >> How's that for a stab in the dark, Some of the best scientific breakthrough have come from a stab in the dark. David ################### From: "TheEdge" Date: Tue, 27 Jan 1998 13:25:31 -0000 Subject: Update - Nep. Madagascariensis for trade or sale Sometime in the next day or so I hope to get out to the nursery to have a look at the plants. It is about a 20 minute drive from where I live, but I should be able to get out there sometime soon. I am not sure if the $14.95 plants are the same as the $4.95 ones that I bought. When I bought those in the fall, there were only 3 or 4 pots left, and the plants were sick-looking and pitcherless. This could be why they were at that price, being the leftovers. If this is true, then the plants may unfortunately be $14.95 right now. Hopefully this is not the case and they have healthy plants at $4.95 apiece. I will let you know after I go check them out. Matt - TheEdge@amdyne.net ################### From: "TheEdge" Date: Tue, 27 Jan 1998 13:44:52 -0000 Subject: Best water for CP, where to get it at the best price After buying distilled water in gallon jugs for $1.09 apiece for the past few months, I noticed the large water dispenser at the end of the aisle (in the supermarket) which I had never stopped to look at thinking it was spring water. I was greatly surprised at what I found. Not only was it not a spring water dispenser, but it was a Reverse-Osmosis unit. But it gets even better. It was a machine that takes regular city tap water (from some unseen pipe in the supermarket, I suppose), then passes it through two different filters, one to remove particles, another to remove chlorine. After that the water is Reverse-Osmosified (if there is such a verb). Finally, the feature that most impressed me, the water is exposed to UV light to kill or neutralize bacteria, etc. The cost? Probably cheaper than it costs the hobby grower with a Reverse-Osmosis unit or water distiller to operate their equipment. The prices are around (I do not remember the exact prices) 2 gallon containers for $3.50 and less than a dollar for each refill, 3 gallon containers for $5.50 and about a dollar a refill, and (this is what I bought) 5 gallon containers (with a faucet built in) for $7.50 and about $1.25 a refill. These prices are probably the best possible for water this pure. Check your local supermarket for these units. The one I have begun to use is in a Metro (that is the name of the chain) supermarket. The company that makes the unit is Harmony Brook. Just thought I would pass this info along, it seems to me a good deal, and it would probably be difficult to find water for CP that is any purer. Matt - TheEdge@amdyne.net ################### From: "Mellard, David" Date: Tue, 27 Jan 1998 13:49:00 -0500 Subject: RE: VFT pollination >I have heard that inbreeding in animals is detrimental and increases suseptibility >to diseases, would this be the case with plants also? I know that >many plants are often self pollinated, would this make the offspring >plants weaker? Generally, inbreeding (breeding closely related animals of the same species) is not a problem. Continued inbreeding of the same closely related aminals, however, increases the chances of letting detrimental as well as desired characteristics to surface. Probably the dog is a good example of breeding closely related siblings for desired characteristics while at the same time increasing the possibility of dysplasia. Low fertility is another result of continued inbreeding. What breeders often do is line breed. Breed closely related siblings or sibling/parents for several generations and then outcross to another blood line to prevent undesirable characteristics from predominating in the gene pool. Plant breeding probably follows the same principles. David ################### From: Perry Malouf Date: Tue, 27 Jan 1998 14:16:48 -0500 (EST) Subject: Re: EMAIL You wrote: > PLEASE STOP SENDING ME EMAIL AT THIS ADDRESS. > I AM LEAVING THIS FIRM > THANK YOU You must unsubscribe yourself from the list. Send an e-mail message to: listproc@opus.hpl.hp.com For the subject line write: unsubscribe cp Also write this as the only line of the message body. Send it off, and that should do it. Regards, Perry Malouf ################### From: BREWER_CHARLES@ecomail.damneck.navy.mil Date: Tue, 27 Jan 1998 14:13:55 -0500 Subject: Re: Best water for CP, where to get it at the best price The price of your RO water seems a bit high. I believe we have the same machines which sell water for as low as 35 cents per gallon. Another good source for RO water is outside some Kmart stores. Just some added advice. Charles The cost? Probably cheaper than it costs the hobby grower with a Reverse-Osmosis unit or water distiller to operate their equipment. The prices are around (I do not remember the exact prices) 2 gallon containers for $3.50 and less than a dollar for each refill, 3 gallon containers for $5.50 and about a dollar a refill, and (this is what I bought) 5 gallon containers (with a faucet built in) for $7.50 and about $1.25 a refill. These prices are probably the best possible for water this pure. Check your local supermarket for these units. The one I have begun to use is in a Metro (that is the name of the chain) supermarket. The company that makes the unit is Harmony Brook. Just thought I would pass this info along, it seems to me a good deal, and it would probably be difficult to find water for CP that is any purer. Matt - TheEdge@amdyne.net ################### From: BREWER_CHARLES@ecomail.damneck.navy.mil Date: Tue, 27 Jan 1998 15:32:05 -0500 Subject: Re: light fictures Hi All, I need a little assistance, I am looking for supplier who sells fluorescent light fixture that holes 4-48" fluorescent tubes and that will not exceed 14 inches wide. Charley's greenhouse supplies sells one for a whopping $100+ dollars. I'm sure there are companies out there that sell the same fixture, but for less. These fixtures fit nicely over 40 gallon long aquariums. If you can help me, please advise privately. Thanks in advance Charles Brewer ################### From: Michal Dworaczek Date: Tue, 27 Jan 1998 16:44:22 -0600 Subject: Dave thanks for the Sarracenia seeds Appreciate the labelling! ,-~~-.___. <----------------------------------------> / | ' \ -=| Michal Dworaczek |=- ( ) 0 -=| dworaczek@usa.net |=- \_/-, ,----' -=| (306)-477-2083 Saskatoon, Saskatchewan |=- ==== // -=| C A N A D A |=- / \-'~; /~~~(O) <----------------------------------------> / __/~| / IBM | Check out my home page!!! =( ______| (_________| http://dworaczek.home.ml.org YOU CAN ALSO CONTACT ME USING ICQ - MY NUMBER IS 5922615 ################### From: Larry Mellichamp Date: Tue, 27 Jan 1998 20:30:58 -0600 Subject: Re: help with address Dear Group, I have long lost my address to contact Alan Hindle in England. Can anyone email me privately with it (don't post it on the CP page). Thanks in advance. By the way, thanks for all the kind remarks about my Sarracenia hybrids 'Dixie Lace' and "Ladies -in-Waiting' on the server. They are selling fast and may be already gone for the season. More in fall. 'Dixie Lace' I know is still available from Niche Gardens. Larry Larry Mellichamp Biology Dept. UNC Charlotte Charlotte, NC 28223 phone (704) 547-4055 Fax (704) 547-3128 E-Mail FBI00TLM@email.UNCC.EDU ################### From: "TheEdge" Date: Tue, 27 Jan 1998 22:00:22 -0000 Subject: Re: Re: Best water for CP, where to get it at the best price On the prices, those are prices for refilling the entire container. For a 5 gallon container, at around $1.25 (+- 5 cents)a refill, comes to only 25 cents a gallon. I know that it comes out to less than 35 cents a gallon, and it is at least 25 cents a gallon. All of this is of course with the 5 gallon container, which is well worth the cost. I am not quite sure how these machines turn a profit, unless they are far more efficient than the simple water distiller units that I have seen for sale for home use, which if I remember correctly can cost around 35 cents per gallon in electricity(?) and do not have the UV sterilization either (I do not know what filters the home units have). ################### From: "TheEdge" Date: Tue, 27 Jan 1998 22:04:26 -0000 Subject: Nep. Madagascariensis nursery Today I went to the nursery for the second time since my posting, and once again they were closed. This time I checked their closing time (4 pm, apparently). I should be able to get there before they close sometime this week. I will see if the store ships plants themselves, since they might be able to get a better shipping rate than I can and thus can save those who want the plants some money. I'll keep you posted. ################### From: "Zachary Kaufman" Date: Tue, 27 Jan 1998 19:34:37 PST Subject: recipients recipients ################### From: "TheEdge" Date: Tue, 27 Jan 1998 22:19:05 -0000 Subject: Walmart For the record, I do not own stock in these sources that I have been mentioning lately :) A good place to find all sorts of stuff for your growing and tissue culturing needs is Walmart. I bought an 8 quart pressure cooker to use for tissue culture for about $55 (this is a decent price, btw do not try to be stingy when buying a pressure cooker, they have explosion potential, just spend the small difference in cost if it means a safer model). 4 quart models cost around $30. Then there are containers, lights, water filters, etc.... at decent prices. Just thought I would mention this as I had not thought of Walmart as a good place to find things for the hobby grower until someone suggested that they probably had what I wanted to buy. ################### From: "Capestany" Date: Tue, 27 Jan 1998 22:38:00 -0800 Subject: Sphagnum moss Is it normal for sphagnum moss to be whitish and brown in the winter? Though the moss is growing in my Nepenthes terrarium and the Neps are doing great, some of the sphagnum which is normally green seems sickly. Both the Neps and the moss grow in a perlite/bark mixture sold for orchids and have high humidity and good light. What could I be doing wrong? dr.cap Alexandria, Virginia USA ################### From: "Judy Clark" Date: Tue, 27 Jan 1998 10:44:07 -0500 Subject: Propagation of Pings To: Marco Lichtenberger , It seems you got a handle on proping those pings , but I see you pull them off when there starting to grow again. They do grow better that way ,but the advantage is by taking them in January ,you will all ready have a plant by the time you are going to take the cuttings in May or June . As to how you fertilize the Ping flowers .It is a simple matter of taking a small toothpick and sharping it to a small point ,then dull the end of it a little .Next grasp the flower gently and insert it into the long spur through the center of the flower with a upperward motion deposit the pollen onto the ovary or beard of the flower. You may have to do this once a day for several days for it to take.The flower will fall away and leave the seed pod to ripen. I do not do this because it is so easy to produce them from the little Sedum like leaves,and because vegetively you know that it is the same clone you started with.The Mexician pings are far easier group of plants to grow than any of temperate or tropicals .I thought you might want to know what kinds I'm growing at this time so here's my list : Mexican Pinguicula ; P.ehlerserae X P. oblingiloba P.(moranensis P.ehlersae) X P. sethos P.X mala (caudata X gypsicola) P. kewensis P. rosei P. moranensis. and others . I'm far more interested in the BAD BOY plants like Sarracenia's and Fly Traps .But the Mexician Pinguicula will always have a spot or section of my heart and greenhouse.Any of you can Email me privatly at jclark2712@msn.com David Crump aka "Butch" @ Carolina Carnivorous Gardens......................... ################### From: Minoru Hasebe Date: Wed, 28 Jan 1998 13:11:00 +0900 Subject: Tissue cultured CP for sale Over 50 varieties of tissue cultured cp (in vitro) will be available for sale. If anyone is interested, e-mail me for a list. We will send them worldwide. E-mail: FZG04172@niftyserve.or.jp ################### From: ss66428 Date: Wed, 28 Jan 1998 15:20:06 +0900 Subject: Re: Byblis liniflora "Darwin" Nigel, There certainly is "normal" B.liniflora in Darwin, I saw some myself there a few years ago (although they were a bit larger - with longer leaves - and with darker flowers than the ones I had in cultivation). What I was reffering to in my previous mail was the plant Allen Lowrie discovered and calls B.sp.aff.liniflora "Darwin" or something like that. I've grown this form and it is really quite different. I believe Allen may publish it soon as a subspecies of B.liniflora. Anyways, it is not an easy one to grow and also sets seeds only when hand-pollinated (and I think it needs the help of a tuning fork as well). Best Wishes, Fernando Rivadavia Tokyo, Japan ################### From: koudela@ure.cas.cz Date: Wed, 28 Jan 1998 07:33:34 +0000 Subject: Re: Erickson's book Hi Russell (Hansen), >I've been looking on the web for info on a book 'Plants That Prey' >by Rick someone (Erickson, Ericka?). Rica Erickson >Can anyone give me an overview, if it's considered a good book, and >how much I should pay for a second hand copy? Here is the info you can find in the CP book list. I doubt you can find a copy in a second hand bookstore, anyway if you do succeed, let the listserv (or me at least) know about it. Erickson, Rica: "Plants of Prey in Australia".Lamb Publications, Osborne Park, Perth, 1968. ISBN 0855640995, $16.00, ? cover (following ed. University of Western Australia Press, Nedlands, W.A., 1978; 1986?, ?). Descr.: 94 pp., no photographs but 18 plates (B&W and colour) of densely illustrated botanical drawings. Index, Bibliography. Excellent companion to Lowrie's later works. No cultural information. A book covering all the Australian CP known at the time. Hope this helps. BTW, I still need a help with locating info about the books whose entries are not complete in the CP book list. The list itself can be found at http://redtail.unm.edu/cp/cparchive.html#Books. Alternatively, I can send the most recent version to all interested parties. Regards, Ivo *************************************************** * Mgr. Ivo Koudela * * work address: home address: * * IREE AS Okruzni 25/21 * * Chaberska 57 Zdar nad Sazavou * * 182 51 Prague 8 591 01 * * Czech Republic Czech Republic * * tel: +422 6881804 * * fax: +422 6880222 * * e-mail: koudela@ure.cas.cz * *************************************************** ################### From: "Lanham, Steven I." Date: Wed, 28 Jan 1998 00:45:22 -0600 Subject: Re: VFT germination In regards to pollinating VFTs last spring I used the pollen from the flower that opened yesterday. It seems the each flower can receive pollen on day one and makes pollen on day two. I planted some of this seed as soon as the pods turned dry and black and in less than two weeks I had new plants. I had only one plant flower so this seed was selfed. Regards Steve I Lanham from near St Louis Missouri USA ################### From: "Andreas Wistuba" Date: Wed, 28 Jan 1998 07:46:49 +0000 Subject: Re: Tissue cultured CP for sale On 27 Jan 98 at 20:19, Minoru Hasebe wrote: > Over 50 varieties of tissue cultured cp (in vitro) will be > available for sale. If anyone is interested, e-mail me > for a list. We will send them worldwide. > > E-mail: FZG04172@niftyserve.or.jp > What do you offer? Bye, Andreas Andreas Wistuba; Mudauer Ring 227; 68259 Mannheim; Germany Phone: +49-621-705471 / +49-621-7152027 Fax: +49-621-7152028 E-Mail: andreas@wistuba.com ################### From: ricell@juno.com Date: Tue, 27 Jan 1998 23:57:25 -0700 Subject: Re: VFT pollination Mellard, David writes: >Generally, inbreeding (breeding closely related animals >of the same species) is not a problem. This is something that animal breeders will argue bitterly over and certainly does not need to be settled here, however, I wanted to throw in my two cents regarding differences and similarities in plant and animal breeding. Anytime you breed two closely related living things you have a greater chance of bringing out recessive traits. This would be considered desirable if the trait that you wish to preserve is a normally recessive trait as your offspring will have an excellent chance of showing the recessive phenotype. If, however, the trait is undesirable then the offspring will be at a disadvantage (which I believe the original poster was alluding to). One key difference between many plants and animals, however, is that plants can produce hundreds to thousands of potential offspring (seeds) annually while most mammals will produce only a few. This can have a dramatic effect on the genetics of a population. Plants that readily self fertilize have a very high chance of being homozygous for recessive traits and offspring with undesirable recessive traits will be removed from the population by natural selection. Animals, are much more likely to be carriers of harmful recessive traits. This is of course a broad over generalization but hopefully you get the idea. I have heard that a typical human may have 40 potentially lethal recessive traits. Consequently an inbred human has an excellent chance of not surviving or having severe deformities. I suspect that most D. capensis and D. spathulata (plants that readily self fertilize) have very few. Richard Ellis "ricell@juno.com" Boulder, CO _____________________________________________________________________ You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail. Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com Or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866] ################### From: SCHLAUER@chemie.uni-wuerzburg.de Date: Wed, 28 Jan 1998 08:53:26 Subject: Re: Byblis liniflora "Darwin" Dear Fernando, > There certainly is "normal" B.liniflora in Darwin The plants cultivated in Europe under the name > B.sp.aff.liniflora "Darwin" from seeds obtained via Dingley Home & Garden are quite certainly the typical subspecies, so there seems to be quite a confusion already surrounding the illegitimate "Darwin" name. > I believe Allen may publish it soon as a subspecies of B.liniflora. He should have done that years ago if he thinks it is distinct. For discussions on bogus names cf. previous messages on this list... Kind regards Jan ################### From: "j.m.haddon" Date: Wed, 28 Jan 1998 11:19:46 GMT+0 Subject: Plant protection Hi all, I am currently attempting to write an essay on legislation which protects flora. I need some examples of cases in which the legislation has failed and in which legislation has succeeded to protect plants. UK examples would make it easier for me but any are welcome. Thanks JoHn ################### From: BREWER_CHARLES@ecomail.damneck.navy.mil Date: Wed, 28 Jan 1998 08:55:04 -0500 Subject: Re: Sphagnum moss Try misting the moss more. It should not be turning brown and the whitish color indicated lack of water or, dying. Did you spray a fungicide or any other type of chemical on your plants?. If so, that may be the problem. I grow sphagnum moss and only have problems when it is to windy outside, otherword it does just fine in my area. Contact me privately and I will offer some more suggestions Charles Brewer Va. Beach Is it normal for sphagnum moss to be whitish and brown in the winter? Though the moss is growing in my Nepenthes terrarium and the Neps are doing great, some of the sphagnum which is normally green seems sickly. Both the Neps and the moss grow in a perlite/bark mixture sold for orchids and have high humidity and good light. What could I be doing wrong? dr.cap Alexandria, Virginia USA ################### From: "Heggood" Date: Wed, 28 Jan 1998 09:50:55 -0500 Subject: Re: Lighting fixtures Hi Charles! I recently picked up 3 shop light fixtures at Home Depot that are 5.5 inches wide for my new Heli tank. I believe they were less than 10.00 each. The brand was Lithonia from Lithonia Lighting company. These only hold 2 tubes, but 2 fixtures side-by-side will meet you 14 inch requirement. -steve- >Date: Tue, 27 Jan 1998 15:32:05 -0500 >From: BREWER_CHARLES@ecomail.damneck.navy.mil >To: Multiple recipients of list >Subject: Re: light fictures >Message-ID: <4CE451A0.@ecomail.damneck.navy.mil> > > >Hi All, > I need a little assistance, I am looking for supplier who sells fluorescent >light fixture that holes 4-48" fluorescent tubes and that will not exceed 14 >inches wide. Charley's greenhouse supplies sells one for a whopping $100+ >dollars. I'm sure there are companies out there that sell the same fixture, but >for less. These fixtures fit nicely over 40 gallon long aquariums. If you can >help me, please advise privately. Thanks in advance > Charles Brewer > > >------------------------------ > >End of CP Digest 1340 >********************* ################### From: "Mellard, David" Date: Wed, 28 Jan 1998 09:46:00 -0500 Subject: RE: Sphagnum moss >Is it normal for sphagnum moss to be whitish and brown in the winter? Though >the moss is growing in my Nepenthes terrarium and the Neps are doing great, >some of the sphagnum which is normally green seems sickly. Both the Neps and >the moss grow in a perlite/bark mixture sold for orchids and have high >humidity and good light. What could I be doing wrong? White moss means it's too dry. I occassionally get moss with brown tips and suspect that the tips are dead or infected. Since the moss is growing on top of a perlite/bark mix, there's probably not enough wicking action when the mix dries out to draw water into the moss; therefore, the moss turns white. It may not be dead yet though so try rehydrating with water. If it turns green again, it will be ok. You'll have to keep a closer eye on the moss in the current set up and water when it starts to turn white. In the long run, though, this is probably not healthy for the moss since moss likes continuous moisture. David ################### From: aquilla2@juno.com (Michael A Sankovich) Date: Wed, 28 Jan 1998 14:58:42 -0500 Subject: Re: silica sand No matter what kind of sand you get, I recomend putting a few drops of concentrated muriatic acid (HCL) on a sample and look for a reaction (foaming). If you get one, DO NOT USE THIS SAND! this indicates the presense of bicarbinate or limestone. I never take anyones word that the product is pure unless I test it. There are too many variables in packaging and handling where impurities can contaminate the product. If it comes up positive then I use it for to mix with concrete or other household uses. After all, we aren't dealing with a food product here Michael Sankovich "Ashes to ashes, Dust to dust, If the misery don't get you, The raspberry julep spring tonic, (with the persimmon sap,) Must!" _____________________________________________________________________ You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail. Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com Or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866] ################### From: Phil Wilson Date: Tue, 27 Jan 1998 22:42:28 +0000 Subject: BREWER_CHARLES@ecomail In message <4CE451A0.?@ecomail.damneck.navy.mil>, BREWER_CHARLES@ecomail .damneck.navy.mil writes > >Hi All, > I need a little assistance, I am looking for supplier who sells fluorescent >light fixture that holes 4-48" fluorescent tubes and that will not exceed 14 >inches wide. Charley's greenhouse supplies sells one for a whopping $100+ >dollars. I'm sure there are companies out there that sell the same fixture, but >for less. These fixtures fit nicely over 40 gallon long aquariums. If you can >help me, please advise privately. Thanks in advance > Charles Brewer > Charles, I can't really give much advice for you in the States as things are no doubt different to here but the unit I would go for is two double slim line fittings. These are sold by the thousand to the general electrical contractor trade for commerical lighting. The units we get here are about 5 - 6 inches wide so two will easily fit into your space. Try somewhere that sells electrical fittings to the general electrical trade. They are going to be cheaper than any specialised store. I'm sure you can rig something up to support the fittings so they fit into your tank with a piece of wood or sheet Aluminum. I'd make it for you myself if I lived a bit nearer. ;-) Regards, -- Phil Wilson ################### From: Russell Hansen Date: Thu, 29 Jan 1998 08:12:24 +1000 (EST) Subject: Re: Erickson's book and Drosera On Tue, 27 Jan 1998 koudela@ure.cas.cz wrote: > Here is the info you can find in the CP book list. I doubt you can > find a copy in a second hand bookstore, anyway if you do succeed, > let the listserv (or me at least) know about it. > > Erickson, Rica: "Plants of Prey in Australia".Lamb Publications, Thanks for the info. I have actually found a copy in a second hand bookstore for AUS $20. I guess I should get it hey, or I'll never see it again. That'll bring by CP book collection up to two, with Gordon Cheers 'Carniverous Plants of the World' being the other book I got a few years ago on sale for $8. On the topic of Drosera, my brother puchased a block of land about 15 years ago on the southern outskirts of Brisbane. At the time, there was lots of vacan t land around there, but now it's practically all built out. While we were cutting all the long grass when he first bought it, we discovered masses of Drosera all over the ground. At that time, CP's were a new 'Novelty' with a few VT's occassionally appearing in the shops, and I was a naive teenager. Anyway, we did a little research and figured it was a drosera binata (as that was the only drosera species we knew existed). Of course we dug some up, took them home (several times) and they all promptly died, so we gave up in the end. I'm afraid I have to sadly say (now that I realise what exactly we had) that they all ended up being bulldozed to make way for the house. I was wondering if anyone knows of any recorded species of Drosera being found in Brisbane, or what types. Please don't anyone tell me that it may have been a unique collection that was never discovered, or I'll never forgive myself. Russell Hansen | WWW:http://www.powerup.com.au/~rhansen QLD Department of Education | email: Russell.Hansen@qed.qld.gov.au Brisbane, Australia | or: rhansen@powerup.com.au ################### From: "Semanchuk, Phil J" Date: Wed, 28 Jan 1998 17:55:36 -0500 Subject: RE: Sphagnum moss > Is it normal for sphagnum moss to be whitish and > brown in the winter? Though the moss is growing in > my Nepenthes terrarium and the Neps are doing great, > some of the sphagnum which is normally green seems > sickly. Both the Neps and the moss grow in a > perlite/bark mixture sold for orchids and have high > humidity and good light. What could I be doing wrong? Dr. Cap, My sphagnum moss is outside here in the North Carolina piedmont and it is a bright green, even when frozen. My moss turns whitish and brown when it is dried out, like when a bird has been digging in the pots and knocked some of it out. I'm sure drying is not the only reason that sphagnum turns color, but that's been my experience. hth, Phil ################### From: Barry Meyers-Rice Date: Wed, 28 Jan 1998 15:00:19 -0800 (PST) Subject: BACPS This weekend the Bay Area CP society is scheduled to have a San Francisco meeting. I expect to be there and would like to speak with anyone who would like to write articles for Carnivorous Plant Newsletter. Of course, I do not wish to detract from anyone's initiative to write notes for the BACP Society's fine publication! Cheers Barry ------------------------ Dr. Barry A. Meyers-Rice Carnivorous Plant Newsletter Conservation Coeditor bazza@ucdavis.edu http://www.indirect.com/www/bazza/cps/cpn/cpn.html ################### From: dave evans Date: Wed, 28 Jan 98 19:15 EST Subject: Re: VFT pollination Dear Adwait, > I was wondering if pollen from "shark teeth" VFT was transferred to a > normal VFT plant, what would the offspring look like? Sounds like a great experiment to me! Tom Hayes has mentioned that at least some self-pollinated "shark's teeth" VFT seedlings come out with "shark's teeth." > I have heard that inbreeding in animals is detrimental and > increases suseptibility to diseases, would this be the case with > plants also? I know that many plants are often self pollinated, > would this make the offspring plants weaker? Many plants try to > avoid self pollination...maybe for this very reason. Well, that's what culling is for. Only some will show detrimental characteristics. Either they will die off or may look sickly even while others are growing robustly. If you don't like them, throw them on the compost heap. Good Luck, Dave Evans ################### From: dave evans Date: Wed, 28 Jan 98 22:13 EST Subject: Re: Help needed for seeds > From: "Gilles LARDY" > > Further to Laurent Ide's advice I resort to our community to try to set up a > new collection here in HK. > I would appreciate to get any seeds of droseras (tropical & sub-tropical > species), byblis, utrics, genlisea or neps. > I don't have much to trade, except from D. spathulata 'HK', D. oblanceolata > and N. mirabilis seeds and seedlings. > Dear Gilles, I have a number of Drosera and other CP seeds that you mentioned or might want for your bank. I tried sending private mail, but haven't heard back in a while from you... Let me know if you have any interest. Thank's, Dave Evans ################### From: Al Bickell Date: Wed, 28 Jan 1998 23:00:04 -0500 (EST) Subject: stratification Hi everyone, I have a question for the experts on the list. Is it necessary to stratify Darlingtonia seeds in order to have them germinate? Al Bickell ################### From: "Kamil Pasek" Date: Wed, 28 Jan 1998 21:35:41 +0100 Subject: Heliamphora pollen wanted ! Hi all, my Heliamphora heterodoxa will be blooming at first. I'm looking for fresh pollen from arbitrary Heliamphora species for exchange. How long is Heliamphora\264s pollen live? Happy growing, Kamil _____________________________________________________ Kamil Pasek, L. Podeste 1871, 70800 Ostrava 8, Czech Republic e. mail : kamil.pasek@usa.net, adela.revue@post.cz _____________________________________________________ ################### From: elliott@nexus.edu.au (Russell Elliott) Date: Thu, 29 Jan 1998 22:38:22 +1030 (CST) Subject: Seed Trade Brian, Thanks for the large amount of N.lavicola seed that arrived today! I have processed the trade, and was able to give you all the species you requested, including about 2000 Sarracenia flava seeds. However, I was only able send you one or two or each of the others. Is that OK? I also need your postal address again (I seem to have misplaced your previous emails!) Thanks, -Russell @@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@ ! Russell Elliott, Seed Bank Director, ! ! Australian Carnivorous Plant Society. ! ! Sorry, due to limited stocks, seed only available to members. ! ! mailto:elliott@nexus.edu.au ! ! Please Direct membership enquiries to Brian Denton at: ! ! mailto:bdenton@camtech.net.au ! ! ACPS Home Page: http://www.camtech.net.au/acps ! @@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@ ################### From: Wim Leys Date: Thu, 29 Jan 1998 13:19:58 +0100 Subject: FREE (!) CP seeds available, part II I have received a lot of requests on the first offering made at the end of last year. But I have still seeds left. Most of the species are still available, but the amount per specie may vary. I even have spare S. purp. purp stolonifera seed left, due to the fact that I have send so few to the first who requested it. I have not kept any records of who ordered what and who I have send anything to yet, so it has become a big mess. This won't happen again. Will those to whom I have promised seeds, but who have not yet received anything, nor an e-mail nor seeds, during the last 14 day, please contact me ? Here is a copy of the first message, send on 12th of December 1997. I still have a number of CP seeds left that I want to share with members of this list. The seeds are for free. E-mail me privately. Please send me your spare seed list so we can trade. If you don't have any seeds to trade for, I would appreciate it if you would send me a Stamped and Self Addressed Envelope (SAE). Remember you may need an International Reply Coupon, if you like to have your seeds send to you via air mail, you will have to send two IRC's.. Priority will be given to people who want to / can trade. Here is my list of available seeds. The amount of seeds varies. Unless otherwise stated, seeds were harvested in 1997. As more people get this list, some seeds may no longer be available. _Darlingtonia_ californica _Dionaea_ muscipula muscipula green form (very low quantity) _Drosera_ capenis filiformis ssp. filiformis (probably contaminated with D. capensis seeds) intermedia rotundifolia spathulata _Sarracenia_ alata flava flava gigantea flava maxima flava red veined flava red veined / red throat flava rugelii (green) (flava x leucophylla) self pollinated leucophylla 1994 many many seeds leucophylla (leucophylla x purpurea venosa) x leucophylla minor (minor x psittacina) self pollinated x mitchelliana self pollinated oreophylla purpurea purpurea origin : Botanical Garden Ghent (mislabelled, is probably a hybrid between S. purpurea purpurea and S. rubra ???) purpurea purpurea heterophylla purpurea purpurea stolonifera very low quantity purpurea venosa rubra Kind regards Wim ################### From: dinkmaster@hotmail.com Date: Thu, 29 Jan 1998 08:01:34 -0800 (PST) Subject: Smith Family Reunion Hi there Smiths! It's that time again! It seems like every time we turn around, it's reunion time again. Has it really been five years? Meg and I are in charge of it this go round, so we'd like to start by filling you in with what is going on in these Smith's neck of the woods. We are living in Guam, as most of you know. Meg just birthed a healthy baby in December, named Pat. As most of you know from our Christmas letter, As you may recall, Pat is a eunich. Thank you all for the kind words of inspitation. We love Pat dearly. Speaking of love, we love it here, but it tends to get a bit wet in monsoon season. Our youngest son, Tom Jr. got caught in a gullywasher, but our trusty pooch Lucky pulled him out before the waterfall. (Yay Lucky! Way to go!) Anyway, the reunion is set for April 17th, 18th, and 19th at Yellowstone. We have made special arrangements, and will have a whole campground to ourselves. Take the main road in, and hit side trail #34 up to campground 34c. We will be having a potluck supper Friday night, so everybody bring their best dish and their appatites! (Linda, that means your ambrosia salad!! YUM!) On a sadder note, Uncle Robert fell and broke his hip, so please call him and wish him a speedy recovery so he might be able to make the reunion. Be sure to RSVP to me ASAP. I have to have a complete headcount by Feburary 1st. We can't wait to see you there. Afterall, blood is thicker that water. Daniel "Dinkmaster" Smith P.S. Aunt Becky was cleard of all charges, so it is safe to bring the kids! Yay Aunt Becky!!!!! ################### From: Ide Laurent Date: Thu, 29 Jan 1998 18:40:09 +0100 Subject: N. ventricosa I guess N. ventricosa is not an hybrid. N. burkei is as subspecies, if I'm right. Laurent ################### From: "Bernadette Png" Date: Fri, 30 Jan 1998 08:38:34 +0800 Subject: trimming of VFT triggers Hi, is it alright to trim away the triggers of my VFT while re-potting? There are a number which had somehow remained closed, and some are even found inside another, and there are some broken ones too. Can all those be cut off. If yes where do I cut it off from? Will it affect the overall plant in any way? Thanks. Bernie --- Bernadette Png Singapore parrotzfreak@usa.net http://www.cyberway.com.sg/~hoglet ICQ - #6931263 Petz: Ginny (Bull Terrier) Pokie (VFT) ################### From: "Gerrie Buckley" Date: Thu, 30 Jan 1997 21:52:48 +0200 Subject: Fw: Subject: Itsy bitsy virus warning... ---------- > From: Ian Leonard > To: Steve & Margaret Bain ; Rob Allart ; Microsource : Norman Marsh ; Lyons - Lynda ; KFM - Steve Wood ; Flint - Trevor ; Creda - Software ; Buckley - Gerrie > Subject: Subject: Itsy bitsy virus warning... > Date: 29 January 1998 05:35 > > Date: Wednesday, 28 January, 1998 3:42 AM > Subject: Itsy bitsy virus warning... > > VIRUS WARNING !!!!!! > If you receive an email titled "JOIN THE CREW" DO NOT open > it. > It will erase everything on your hard drive. Forward this > letter out > to as many people as you can. This is a new, very malicious > virus and > not many people know about it. This information was > announced > yesterday morning from IBM; please share it with everyone > that might > access the internet. Once again, pass this along to > EVERYONE in your address book so that this may be stopped. > Also, do not open or even look at any mail that says > "RETURNED OR UNABLE TO DELIVERY" This virus will attach > itself to your computer components and render them useless. > Immediately delete any mail items that say this. AOL has > said that this is a very dangerous virus and that there is > NO remedy for it at this time. Please practice cautionary > measures and forward this to all your online friends ASAP. > > Kind regards > Jerry Boezel > Manager, WW Marketing, Large Systems Storage > Storage Systems Division > 5600 Cottle Road, San Jose, CA 95193 USA; dept. P22/010 > office 426 > Phone (408) 256 5007, Fax (408) 256 7821. Secretary: Sue > Peres at (408) 256 > 5063 or IBMUSM51(SUEPERES) > > ################### From: Matt Miller Date: Fri, 30 Jan 1998 16:44:04 -0800 Subject: Re: Fw: Subject: Itsy bitsy virus warning... Gerrie Buckley wrote: > > ---------- > > From: Ian Leonard > > To: Steve & Margaret Bain ; Rob Allart > ; Microsource : Norman Marsh > ; Lyons - Lynda ; KFM - Steve Wood > ; Flint - Trevor ; Creda - > Software ; Buckley - Gerrie > > Subject: Subject: Itsy bitsy virus warning... > > Date: 29 January 1998 05:35 > > > > Date: Wednesday, 28 January, 1998 3:42 AM > > Subject: Itsy bitsy virus warning... > > > > VIRUS WARNING !!!!!! > > If you receive an email titled "JOIN THE CREW" DO NOT open > > it. > > It will erase everything on your hard drive. Forward this > > letter out > > to as many people as you can. This is a new, very malicious > > virus and > > not many people know about it. This information was > > announced > > yesterday morning from IBM; please share it with everyone > > that might > > access the internet. Once again, pass this along to > > EVERYONE in your address book so that this may be stopped. > > Also, do not open or even look at any mail that says > > "RETURNED OR UNABLE TO DELIVERY" This virus will attach > > itself to your computer components and render them useless. > > Immediately delete any mail items that say this. AOL has > > said that this is a very dangerous virus and that there is > > NO remedy for it at this time. Please practice cautionary > > measures and forward this to all your online friends ASAP. > > > > Kind regards > > Jerry Boezel > > Manager, WW Marketing, Large Systems Storage > > Storage Systems Division > > 5600 Cottle Road, San Jose, CA 95193 USA; dept. P22/010 > > office 426 > > Phone (408) 256 5007, Fax (408) 256 7821. Secretary: Sue > > Peres at (408) 256 > > 5063 or IBMUSM51(SUEPERES) > > > > This is a virus hoax, it has been traveling around the internet for some time now, viruses can not be placed in your normal e-mail document, they could be sent along as attachments so It is advisable not to open attachments from people you dont know. ################### From: dave evans Date: Fri, 30 Jan 98 18:22 EST Subject: Re: Heliamphora pollen wanted ! Dear Kamil, > my Heliamphora heterodoxa will be blooming at first. I'm looking > for fresh > pollen from arbitrary Heliamphora species for exchange. You can make true to species seed by selfing your plant. I know Heliamphora can be selfed, but they wouldn't self-pollinate themselves, you must help. > How long is Heliamphora\264s pollen live? Depends on the conditions, in this case the packaging. Dry it out in the fridge, cold and dry are the best conditions for most pollen. Otherwise it will mold. Once dry, mail it in the same manner you would seed. Dave Evans ################### From: dave evans Date: Fri, 30 Jan 98 19:04 EST Subject: Re: N. ventricosa Hello Ide, > I guess N. ventricosa is not an hybrid. N. burkei is as subspecies, if I'm > right. You are just about 100% correct! There are hybrids being sold as either N.ventricosa or N.alata. They often turn out to be N.* ventrata, the hybrid between N.ventricosa and N. alata. One thing to watchout for here is: N.alata has a petiole, if your N.alata comes without one (or a half-way attempt at one, it's probably N.* ventrata. While N.ventricosa has no petiole, if there is a wave or constriction (half-way attempt at a petiole) near where the leaves join the stem, it will probably turn out to be N.ventrata. (this part below has nothing to do with N.alata) So far, I can't see any diffence between them. N. burkei, in my opinion isn't even a subspecies. Just N.ventricosa with the name N.burkei stuck on the label next to it. Now, the plants labelled with N.burkei tend to be larger for the same conditions compared with those labelled N.ventricosa, but so what? All the N.burkei plants going around are clones made from one or just a few plants. Couldn't there also be other plants from the N.burkei type location that are the same size as N.ventricosa??? The differences between the two seem to be only "personal" (coloration and size) in nature not even a different variety. I have seen more diversity between different clones of N.maxima. However, I haven't been to the type location (if it still exists) to look at the plants. Has anyone else been to the Phillipines to see? **This is just my opinion, and I'm not an expert on Nepenthes morphology yet, so don't go changing your labels until some more work is done.** Dave Evans ################### From: "Neal Nagata" Date: Fri, 30 Jan 1998 20:01:09 PST Subject: a little advice..- i need it lol Fellow CPers, hi i have been out of the CP loop for about a year.. all of my plants that i had have died, :-( due to neglect :-(. i just received some Sarrs., a Darlingtonia, some VFTs, a nep, and a Drosera capensis, from Dean Cook (http://www.televar.com/~cooks). They all came in very excellent condition. i have ordered from him on several occasions, since i have been into CP heavily, about a year or so.. Every time my plants came in i was not disappointed. Anyways, i have thusfar planted these plants in a Peat Moss/Perlite mix.. in garden bowls/pots. i am looking for information on how much water/light i can give these plants to keep them flourishing. can anyone help me with this? Last time i had my plants, i was very busy with other affairs, so i could not pay much attention to my plants. Now i can lol. If anyone can help me with some facts about care for these cp, it would be greatly appreciated. Thank you in advance, Best And kind regards, Neal ______________________________________________________ Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com ################### From: dave evans Date: Fri, 30 Jan 98 22:49 EST Subject: Re: Re: Superthrive - False advertising? Dear Rand, > >Superthrive - False advertising? > > > > While I will not confirm or dispute the effectiveness of > > Superthrive, I > >do wonder how the company avoids false advertising lawsuits and/or > >penalties. > > The label claims that 50 hormones are in Superthrive, yet only > > one, > >NAA, is actually listed as an ingredient. Hmm... I haven't read my ST label 'cause it's pretty ugly, but I did read the back about NAA and agree that it's the only one listed. I wonder though, if there are several different isomers (or maybe even more than 50) of NAA. I doubt it because I have the impression that it's a fairly small molecule. > > Does anybody know what the mystery 49 hormones are? Not yet, Dave Evans P.S. I'm not sure if it works on Nepenthes, but it I'm a hundred % positive that will increase foliar embryo production in Drosera by about a factor of 3 to 4, at least on leaves of species that will strike. No, I haven't done an exactly the same conditions, side by side test; but after years of striking leaf cuttings in all sort of different conditions I have had just about the same rate. Now using ST, I get about four times as many plants from the same sized leaves. It didn't work on D.linearis, though I used leaves from the end of season so perhaps the plant was already too far into dormancy for the leaves to strike... Any ideas on that? Oh well, I'll try and end this one again, Dave E ################### From: Dickie Date: Sat, 31 Jan 1998 14:21:35 +0800 Subject: ICPS logo contest Greetings... I have a web page up and running displaying some of my designs for the ICPS logo contest. and i would like to invite other members working on designs ... to mail me their designs and i will gladly display them on the site! :-) check out www.88.com/revenge/index.htm regards Dickie bungee@XXXhklink.net (take out the triple x to use this address) ################### From: KILSMOOTH@aol.com Date: Sat, 31 Jan 1998 05:17:17 EST Subject: Re:Heliams Hello list! Warning: If you get a piece of email stating"Free Heliams",erase immediately,it's a virus!{hehehe,just kidding!}I am looking to buy a mass quantity of Heliams though....Species unimportant. Please email me if you have some. Enjoy C.P.!, Brian :) ################### From: Denis Daly Date: Sat, 31 Jan 1998 22:26:23 -0800 Subject: Flourescent Lights and possible Danger to those who fiddle Charles I note Phill's advice that you can get cheaper light fittings in UK from an electricians supply shop. You can do so in Australia also but:- It might be worth considering whether fluorescent lights provide sufficient light for your needs. You might need a high pressure discharge lamp of 400 to 1000 watts to provide sufficient light for your plants. You may be able to compensate for reduced lighting by using carbon dioxide at 1000 ppm in the atmosphere (instead of the usual 300 ppm). However as 5000 ppm of carbon dioxide can kill you it is not advisable to try this indoors, particularly in homes that are tightly closed up in the winter. Perhaps a determination of actual lighting intensity required for various plants should be decided upon first. (I really can't help as in Sydney, Australia all my plants are outdoors all year.) Adapting commercial fluorescent fittings:- There is an important aspect associated with adapting electrical appliances rather than just buying them. That is you must know enough about electricity to do it at all and to do it safely. Lack of knowledge of the electrical theory and electrical installations in the USA (or indeed in any country) could cause you to waste your money or, as you fiddle with the fitting, to kill yourself or a loved one. It is difficult to go into the exact details as I do not have intimate knowledge of the USA electrical installations but I hope that amongst the many members of the list there is an US electrician who could elaborate on the specific practical details as they apply in the USA. To start the "ball rolling" I present the most likely possible scenarios below:- If the following bores you then I apologise. But if you do not understand all of it then you should not fiddle with electrical equipment. Even if you understand it you cannot assume that all members of the digest do. The single phase voltage in UK and Australia (and, I believe in most countries) is between 220 to 250. It varies country to country. There is an international standard agreement to go to 220 volts eventually. The fluorescent lights sold for use with phase voltages of 220 to 250 volts can be effected cheaply as there is ample "spare" voltage available to enable the current limiting function of a ballast and to "strike" the "warmed" tube by adding the back voltage of the ballast to the supply voltage as the starter opens. This type incorporates a thermal starter which flicks on off to induce a back voltage (generated in the ballast inductor) which adds to the voltage to the mains supply to fire the tube. The starter keeps flickering until it "opens the circuit" at a time near enough to the peak of the AC (sinusoidal Alternating Current) wave so that a sufficient voltage to fire the tube is generated. While the starter circuit is closed the filaments of the tube are being heated to reduce the tube firing voltage required. Once the tube has "fired", the ballast acts as a current limiter. Without the ballast to limit the current (as the tube's resistance falls instantly as it gets hot) once the tube fires it would blow up in milliseconds and bits of glass would be propelled about the room. As I understand it the single phase voltage (in the power point, power outlet, appliance socket, or whatever else you call it) in USA is 110 to 120 volts. Fluorescent lights for 120 volts would need to incorporate a "step up transformer":- This could be implemented in one of two ways:- 1) "instant start" . (i.e. no flickering to start) As there has to be a step up transformer to provide the "spare" voltage, the step up transformer's "open circuit" output voltage is made to be several hundreds of volts initially to "fire the tube" without using a starter. (This is sometimes called cold start as the tube filaments are not heated to assist starting. Hence the firing voltage must be several hundred volts.) Then the magnetically leaky transformer (between the primary and secondary windings .... designed to be so) causes the loaded output voltage (fictional point in electrical circuit theory which makes the maths easier) to drop to around 200 volts, while the impedance of the secondary winding limits the current through the fluorescent tube. (Step up transformer and ballast inductor are magnetically interconnected and in the one can.) ("Instant start" or "Cold Start" types are sold for 220 to 250 volt supply also.) 2) Alternatively you might find that a 110 - 120 volt fluorescent light fitting has a step up (to around 220V) transformer fitted as well as the current limiting ballast. This transformer would not be magnetically leaky and would be a separate unit magnetically, even though it might be in the same can as the ballast. The ballast starter combination generate the firing voltage. This type flickers when first switched on. (Some more modern, 110 to 120 volt, fluorescent ballasts may be "electronic" but they will still need to "step up the voltage" to fire the tube and provide some "spare" voltage across their current limiting circuitry.) In large scale industrial or commercial lighting installations the premises would probably have its electrical load spread over two or three phases. (I won't elaborate on what a phase is. It would take me all day and confuse you.) While I don't know what is actually done in the USA I suspect that commercial light fittings may be wired across two phases (of a 3 phase system) thus operating on (square root 3) x 120 volts = 1.732 x 120 = 207 volts (1.732 x 110 = 190 volts). While the ballast (inductor, choke) would be different than that for 220 to 250 volt use, it is possible to use the simpler (and cheaper) ballast with thermal starter and without a 110 to 220 volt transformer in each light fitting. Thus if you buy a commercial type fitting in the USA it may not be able to be used in your home simply plugged into a 110 volt power outlet. In the USA it may be possible to have a two phase 220V power outlet installed in your home. You could buy a 110 to 220 volt transformer large enough to run several lights. But in some remote rural locations there may only be a single phase supply available. The fact that the USA uses 60 Hz vrs 50 Hz frequency of electricity does not affect the above voltage considerations. It does have an effect on the design of the components used though. You need to consult an electrician or a friend who has electrical knowledge to determine what is going on. It's not possible for me to do so from Australia. The point is you need expert advice in the USA. Perhaps there is a requirement to be licensed to work on electrical installations in the USA. There is in Australia. Sorry about the complication but I felt compelled to warn you. Electricity can kill you if you don't know what you are doing. Consult an expert. There are other special types of fluorescent lights, including battery operated and those with electronic drivers. I did not address these matters as I presume that what you seek are cheap, reliable lights. Even battery powered fluorescent lights generate dangerous voltages inside. High pressure discharge lamps also present the same minimum supply voltage problems as do fluorescent tubes as I outline above Regards Denis Daly dalymob@bigpond.com (There is no .au on the end. Yes it is in Australia.) ################### From: red1@humboldt1.com (Sylvia De Rooy) Date: Sat, 31 Jan 1998 08:41:12 -0800 (PST) Subject: tissue culture I am looking for "recipes" for tissue culture and info on what cp's are best to use for tissue culture. Thanks for any info anyone may care to share. Would also like to ditto the messages that some have posted about not assuming a cp is dead- give it time to be sure. Craig Gardner sent me some wonderful plants and I thought I had killed a drosera. It turned black shortly after I had potted it up (I didn't want to tell you, Craig) but I decided to give it time. It is now sending up lovely green arms into the air. ################### From: "Adao Pereira." Date: Sun, 1 Feb 1998 00:27:56 +0100 Subject: Hi everyone! Hi! I've just subscribed to the CP listserver. My interest in CPs has been growing since I saw a VFT when I was a kid, and some years ago, I bought my first one, but it died after producing seeds, and the seeds don't grow. In fact, most CPs I bought died after flowering except Drosera capensis and Pinguicula. Right now, I'm trying to grow Sarracenia purpurea seeds: I've put them in the refridgerator and I'm waiting till Spring to expose them to the sunlight. Is this OK? Miguel Porto ################### From: "Bernadette Png" Date: Sun, 1 Feb 1998 15:51:37 +0800 Subject: Pot too big? Hello. I've just finished re-potting my VFT. Now I hope it doesn't die! But I've seem to have too little soil. The plastic pot is about 15 cm, and the soil has filled up to only 3 cm below the top. When I put the plant in it, it looked so small and sunk. Some soil has also landed on the triggers. What should I do? Is it alright? Bernie --- Bernadette Png Singapore parrotzfreak@usa.net http://www.cyberway.com.sg/~hoglet ICQ - #6931263 Petz: Ginny (Bull Terrier) Pokes (VFT) ################### From: KILSMOOTH@aol.com Date: Sun, 1 Feb 1998 06:57:44 EST Subject: Re: CITES and phytosanitary.... Hello List!! Bri here...I'm planning on getting a large order of Heliams and Drosera from the Czech Republic....The problem is that i haven't dealt with overseas C.P.ers in quite a few years...Would some one please tell me what i need and the cost roughly, to import these plants into the U.S.Some are T.C.,some are bareroot{if that matters at all :) } ....Any help or imput welcomed!! Thanks to all,and Enjoy C.P. !! Brian Barnes in Fl. ################### From: Oreophila@aol.com Date: Sun, 1 Feb 1998 14:00:41 EST Subject: Brochinea Reducta Hi, Oreophila here ( Bill Hoyer) I have a Brochinea R. that is in need of transplanting. I would like to hear of any good planting media mixes somone might have, and how large of a pot it likes. Bill Hoyer ################### From: Richard Brown Date: Sun, 01 Feb 1998 14:03:31 -0500 Subject: Re: N. ventricosa or burkei? >N burkei, in my opinion isn't even a subspecies. Just N. ventricosa with the name >N. burkei stuck on the label next to it. Now, the plants labelled with N burkei tend >to be larger for the same conditions compared with those labelled N ventricosa, but so >what? Dave, I would have agreed with you 100% a few weeks ago. Then I saw a REAL N. burkei. It is in a collection here in south Florida, where it is now gaining size and producing pitchers with our cool winter nights. It is a young plant, but is most definitely not a ventricosa, nor does it look like any of the hybrids I have seen. Leaf/growth habit is like ventricosa, but the pitchers are different. No doubt it is related, as are N bellii, and N. merrilliana. I intend to take pictures of it in another couple of months as the plant gains size. I will also consult with the owner about where it came from and any other information that may be useful. We both would have agreed with you about n ventricosa: ie. burkei is nothing more than a variety of ventricosa. But then this young plant, a so called N. burkei, began to "grow up". As far as I'm concerned, at this time, N. burkei is a separate species. It is a one and only plant, so I am hesitant to name the owner without permission. Until later, Trent Meeks Pompano Beach, Florida ################### From: "Frank Wolpert" Date: Sun, 1 Feb 1998 22:16:48 +0200 Subject: Cephalotus What is the best method to get Cephalotus seeds to germinate? I have tried various methods including stratification with no success. Frank Wolpert ################### From: jwallace@mail1.nai.net (Frederick John Wallace) Date: Sun, 1 Feb 1998 19:22:38 -0500 (EST) Subject: label markers? Hi, Does anyone have a marker for labels that lasts. I tried permanent ink and that fades, pen and pencil rub off... any advice appreciated. Thanks! Jon ################### From: jpm Date: Sun, 01 Feb 1998 18:39:36 +0000 Subject: Re: Brocchinia reducta Hi Bill- My name is Jonathan Mitchell; I have a B. reducta plant that I have had for almost a year now, and it has done very well for me. It is almost 9" tall and is producing several pups. I grow it in peat-sand, with a bit more sand than peat. You might also throw some perlite in. I keep it in one of those one gallon black plastic pots, as it has a very large root system. A bigger pot might be even better. I also think it is important to keep the soil very dry. Good luck- Jonathan ################### From: "angela nichols" Date: Sun, 01 Feb 98 21:23:51 PST Subject: Hi CPers Hi. My name is Angie. I have been growing CP for 20+ years. My main interests are Heliamphora and Nepenthes all kinds of CP. Can anyone tell me what to do for my blooming (from the vase and the roots) B. reducta to get viable seed? Thanks. ################### From: "Aaron Carlson" Date: Sun, 1 Feb 1998 19:40:23 -0600 Subject: a couple of questions Hello everyone. I have a couple of questions. First, does anybody know the exact parentage of the hybrid Sarracenias being offered by Niche Gardens? i believe their names are "ladies in waiting" and "dixie lace". Second, when do flowers first start poking up from Sarracenias? I have a psittXleuco that looks as if one is starting to form at the crown, but I can't really tell yet. Third, I just bought a couple of Nepenthes madagascarensis from a Lowe's here in town and was wondering what temp. and light requirements would best suit this species. Thanks in advance, Aaron Carlson ################### From: Pnsamm@aol.com Date: Sun, 1 Feb 1998 22:14:23 EST Subject: Nepenthes ampullaria concern Dear enthusiasts, I have a question concerning the slow, almost nil growth of my N. ampullaria over the past several months. Moreover, I am seeing no pitcher development. I am growing two plants in a sealed 10 gallon aquarium (plenty of humidity I should think). I keep two 40 watt flourescent tubes above the plants, a typical shoplight, around 12 inches from the nepenthes. The tank temperature is around 74 F. Maybe the problem is insufficient light? Too low temperature? Any ideas? Thank You, Peter ################### From: ALVIN.CHIN@chase.com Date: Sat, 31 Jan 1998 18:18:07 -0500 Subject: no e-mail this address is no longer valid thank you ################### From: "C. J. Mazur" Date: Sun, 1 Feb 1998 23:09:54 -0500 Subject: main bounce back If there is a Danny Summit on this list, could you contact me privately. My reply to you keeps bouncing back. Best Regards, Carl J. Mazur Cherryhill Carnivorous Plants Ontario Canada http://www.vaxxine.com/ccphome ################### From: AL850R Date: Sun, 01 Feb 1998 22:17:47 -0800 Subject: SARRACENIA SEEDS Thanks David Mellard, I really appreciate your generosity for giving giving me free Sarracenia Seeds. They arrived nicely labeled and with plenty of seeds in a cushioned envelope. The problem is, I need some instructions on how to start off with them. Please help, anyone! Thanks, -A.L.- ################### From: Guy.VanDerKinderen@rug.ac.be Date: Mon, 2 Feb 1998 08:10:51 +0000 Subject: Free CP seeds and BG Gent Hi everybody, especially Wim, Some digests ago, I discovered a rather strange remark in the 'free' seed list of Wim Leys. > purpurea purpurea origin : Botanical Garden Ghent > (mislabelled, is probably a hybrid between S. purpurea purpurea and S. We're still wondering what the value may be to the people who may be interested to have these seeds? Or is there another purpose? It has been always the policy of BG Gent to leave the CP collection to the concern of CP Society Drosera, namely its board. In the period Mr. Leys took or got this plant from BG Gent, he was member of this board. But it was clear at that time, that certain people where more concerned about their own collection, than checking for instance the BG collection for possible wrong labels, as they were supposed to have some expertise in CP taxonomy. It was also clear that certain people tried to use the Society as an area of distribution for their own trades, and BG Gent as a source for it. They still are harvesting the seeds of it. Fortunately, times have changed. Sincerely, Guy Van der Kinderen Chairman vzw. Drosera Free-lance co-operator of BG Gent ################### From: wOb Date: Mon, 2 Feb 1998 09:52:49 +0100 Subject: CP: Off topic: RE: Subject: Itsy bitsy virus warning... Gerrie Buckley[SMTP:gbuckley@ilink.nis.za] wrote: > > VIRUS WARNING !!!!!! > > If you receive an email titled "JOIN THE CREW" DO NOT open > > it. Once again: This alert is a hoax......... see: http://www.kumite.com/myths/ for more info. Sorry for this off topic message. Happy growing to all. -------------------------------------------------------------------- Cyril 'wOb' Fournillon Drop me a message: cyril.fournillon@inforoute.cgs.fr wOb@mail.dotcom.fr wOb@chez.com Visit my HomePage: http://www.inforoute.cgs.fr/fournill [Voice: +33 1 42 21 78 03] [Fax: +33 1 42 21 76 88] [ICQ: 1397712] -------------------------------------------------------------------- Hi! I'm a .signature virus (mutant version), copy me to your .signature file to join in. ################### From: Nigel Hurneyman Date: Mon, 2 Feb 1998 11:05:39 -0000 Subject: Would the real red pulchella stand up please I saw an RHS colour chart at the weekend. 37B is a very washed out pink and 69A is a pale-lilac-purple. Is there a form of Drosera pulchella which a normal human being would claim to have a red flower? Just for the record, my 69A is flowering at the moment, and it is a rather pretty rose pink. Perhaps my question is irrelevant and it depends on the plant's environment. Good Growing, NigelH ################### From: Nigel Hurneyman Date: Mon, 2 Feb 1998 11:01:34 -0000 Subject: Pygmy Grower's Eyeball I suffered an attack of pygmy grower's eyeball yesterday. You are carefully harvesting the gemmae from a pygmy sundew when 'ping', a lone gemma defies gravity and Newton's laws of motion and flies upwards and backwards, landing on your eyeball. If you are married, you can seek sympathy from your partner, reassuring them that it is just one of the risks involved with such a dangerous and exciting hobby. If the gemma is large and chunky (eg scorpioides), it is relatively easy to remove. If the gemma is from a choice species, you should leave it there. If you are 30, with 2 eyeballs, you have had the benefit of 60 eyeball-years. If you received 10 sewelliae gemmae in the summer and 6 months later they are all just about dead (normal for the UK), you have had the benefit of 5 sewelliae-years. The latter is obviously far more precious. If the gemma is from a pernicious weed like 'Lake Badgerup' (like mine yesterday), obviously you want to remove it. Unfortunately the gemma is flat and sticks like glue and needs substantial irrigation to shift it. Ouch! NigelH ################### From: ricell@juno.com Date: Sun, 1 Feb 1998 17:59:53 -0700 Subject: Re: label markers? jwallace@mail1.nai.net (Frederick John Wallace) writes: >Does anyone have a marker for labels that lasts. I tried permanent ink >and that fades, pen and pencil rub off... any advice appreciated. > I would be interested in this as well as i am currently growing a Nepenthes I call N. "unknown" because the label faded beyond legibility. I am currently using waxy pencils intended for marking tiles and I'm happy with their durability but they do not have a very fine point. Richard Ellis "ricell@juno.com" Boulder, CO ################### From: Al Bickell Date: Mon, 2 Feb 1998 07:20:07 -0500 (EST) Subject: stratification Hi everyone, I have a question for the experts on the list. Is it necessary to stratify Darlingtonia seeds in order to have them germinate? Al Bickell Alan Bickell Canadian Tissue Culture Laboratory Web Site ################### From: Loyd Wix Date: 02 Feb 1998 14:06:30 +0100 Subject: Mr Lowries forthcoming publications - take 2 I tried to send this message last week but it didn't appear on the digest due to some listserver problem, anyway I'll try again: Dear Fernando, Nigel, Jan etc. >I believe Allen may publish it soon >as a subspecies of B.liniflora. Anyways, it is not an easy >one to grow and >also sets seeds only when hand-pollinated (and I think it >needs the help of a >tuning fork as well). Perhaps all will be revealed in the next Nuytsia? I had a phone conversation with Allen last Sunday and he mentioned that several items should be appearing from him in Nuytsia. Amongst a new Utric and trigger plants he also mentioned Byblis but he didn't go into further details. kind regards Loyd ################### From: "Phill Mann" Date: Mon, 02 Feb 98 21:12:29 PST Subject: New Home Page Hi to all the digest members, many of you I already know. I have finally managed to get my home page underway and although it is = still a little rough around the edges at least it is up and going now. For the dedicated Nepenthes collectors there are over 70 photographs incl= uded including some new species and some that have never been seen before= such as:- N. argentii - (Cheek & Jebb) A miniature species and smallest of all = Nepenthes from the Philippines. N. sibuyanensis - A new species about to be named that comes from = the Philippines also, with very large pitchers. N. klossii - Until now has not been seen since 1913 when first = collected in Irian Jaya. N. paniculata - also from Irian Jaya not seen since 1920. N. petiolata - Philippines. This is what is now classed as the = true form of N. petiolata not the plant described = by Kurata. N. philippinensis(?) - Until now this has been grouped with N. = alata but needs closely studying as with = many Philippine species. N. species (?) - A large new species from central Irian Jaya. N. x trusmadiensis - N.macrophylla x lowii a natural hybrid from = Mt Trusmadi Sabah, Borneo. And a heap of others. I hope you enjoy them. Phill MANN P.O. Box 193 Harvey 6220 Western Australia 61 (0) 8 97293417 philmann@altu.net.au SPECIALISING IN NEPENTHES ################### From: "Mellard, David" Date: Mon, 2 Feb 1998 09:43:00 -0500 Subject: RE: a little advice..- i need it lol >If anyone can help me with some facts about care for these cp, it would >be greatly appreciated. Hi Neal, You can find a lot of culture information at Barry Meyers-Rice's website: www.indirect.com/www/bazza/cps/faq/faq.html After reading the above, if you have specific questions, I'm sure someone on the list will gladly help you. David ################### From: "Gilles LARDY" Date: Mon, 2 Feb 1998 00:25:45 +0800 Subject: Re: New Home Page Hey Phil, you forgot to give the address of your Homepage.... ------------------------------------------------------------ Contact me at fytdw@hkabc.net or byblis@hotmail.com Ckeck out my CP Homepage on http://www.geocities.com/RainForest/Canopy/1244/MainFrame.html ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- --------- ################### From: SCHLAUER@chemie.uni-wuerzburg.de Date: Mon, 2 Feb 1998 18:28:19 Subject: Re: New Home Page Dear Phill, dear Listeners, > For the dedicated Nepenthes collectors there are over 70 photographs incl= > uded including some new species and some that have never been seen before= > such as:-(...) The URL that you have forgotten to mention is: http://webnews.altu.net.au/~philmann/page##.html (replace ## by number) For those who have only the time to download the interesting pages, go to ##: 7 ("sibuyanensis"), 14 ("new" sp.), 15 (lamii, paniculata), 21 (argentii, petiolata) NB: N. sibuyanensis is not (yet) a valid name and should therefore not have been published this way at this moment. The allegedly new species is close to _N. insignis_. We will have to wait for a description or better pictures that will clarify the difference. Kind regards Jan ################### From: Ide Laurent Date: Sun, 01 Feb 1998 19:20:32 +0100 Subject: Burkei versus Ventricosa Hi Dave For what I've seen, in my books, it's actually (as you said) a coloration difference. Ventricosa has a green or 'cream-yellow' pitcher with vive red peristom. Burkei is more tending to purple, but the whole pitcher has a pronounced red coloration, this increases with the age of the plant and the sun exposition. This mix between the two colours gives a brown-red color, with red veines. I've seen a cephalotus pitcher turning to yellow in a few days. Will it die soon ? Mimosa Pudica : seems the plantlets are sensitives (sure, hey)...to the sun and can be severely burned ! Watch out... In the same way, expose the plant to a cool wind and it immediately closes his leaves. Laurent ################### From: BREWER_CHARLES@ecomail.damneck.navy.mil Date: Mon, 2 Feb 1998 12:52:46 -0500 Subject: Re[2]: label markers? try Charley's greenhouse supplies in Washington State. I use his markers with excellent results. They run about $3.00 each, but they have been the best yet. Also don't discount using a pencil. They never fade and seem to last as long as the label does unless you rub on the marker. I also use a silver paint pencil that you can get from any hobby shop or kmart. I don't know the name right off, but this silver paint pencil last for years. ______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________ jwallace@mail1.nai.net (Frederick John Wallace) writes: >Does anyone have a marker for labels that lasts. I tried permanent ink >and that fades, pen and pencil rub off... any advice appreciated. > I would be interested in this as well as i am currently growing a Nepenthes I call N. "unknown" because the label faded beyond legibility. I am currently using waxy pencils intended for marking tiles and I'm happy with their durability but they do not have a very fine point. ################### From: tundae@juno.com Date: Mon, 02 Feb 1998 15:35:09 EST Subject: Interviewee from Somalia Greetings I have one question: Is anyone out there a current resident of Somalia or familiar enough with the culture to participate in a short cyber interview? Questions would be about current events, customs, etc..... Anyone intrested can e-mail me at Tundae@juno.com and I will send you a list of questions. All responses would be greatly appreciated. Thanks! ################### From: "Mellard, David" Date: Mon, 2 Feb 1998 16:07:00 -0500 Subject: Spectacular Sarr Hybrid At the following URL, you will find a spectacular Sarracenia hybrid: http://www.jps.net/cgardner/DaveM-1.jpg. What you can't see in the picture is that the underside of the hood is the same color as the rim of the pitcher. Those that went on the field trip sponsored by the Atlanta Botanical Gardens and ICPS will remember this plant from a growers' field in south Alabama. Ron Gagliardo said something about doing some tissue culture with it but I haven't heard if he did or not. Now for some fun. Can you guess the parentage or better yet how and in what order would you breed species and hybrids to get this jewel? Does this resembe any of the hybrids I see listed occassionally? It's a very tall plant, on the order of a large flava or leucophylla and the pitcher at the rim is very large. Many thanks to Craig for putting this picture on his website. David ################### From: Dori Arazi Date: Tue, 03 Feb 1998 00:03:30 +0200 Subject: VFT Propagation Hi, Is there any way to propagate VFT other than seed germination? (even anything as elaborate as chemical stimulation of samples in a petry dish or something?) ****** *Dori* ****** ################### From: dave evans Date: Mon, 02 Feb 98 18:50 EST Subject: Re: Re: N. ventricosa or burkei? > Dave, I would have agreed with you 100% a few weeks ago. Then I saw a > REAL N. burkei. It is in a collection here in south Florida, where it > is now gaining size and producing pitchers with our cool winter nights. > It is a young plant, but is most definitely not a ventricosa, nor does > it look like any of the hybrids I have seen. Leaf/growth habit is like > ventricosa, but the pitchers are different. Hello Trent, Could you please explain what the differences are? So far, I have not been able to understand what those differences are, besides for color and size. Something about the angle of the lid compared to that of the peristome? I did look at the photos displayed on Johanna Marabini's web-page, but still didn't notice the difference. Feeling left out of the N.burkei loop, Dave Evans ################### From: dave evans Date: Mon, 02 Feb 98 19:06 EST Subject: Re: stratification > I have a question for the experts on the list. Is it necessary to stratify > Darlingtonia seeds in order to have them germinate? No, Dave Evans ################### From: Matt Miller Date: Mon, 02 Feb 1998 18:56:27 -0800 Subject: New CP Propagation Section Hello, My new section on the propagation of different types of CP has now been added to my web page at: http://www.paonline.com/mrmiller/propigat.htm I invite you all to come and see it. Some of it was written from my experiences and some was written from what I have read and heard in CP books and over the internet. If there is any info on it that is not accurate please e-mail me privatly and make me aware of it so it can be changed. As before I will still graciously accept any photos that are relevant to the page. It is a section of my origional CP web site at: http://www.paonline.com/mrmiller/main.htm If your not busy you can check out the rest of the page as well, along with the updated Specific Growing Instructions Section. Thank you to all that have contributed photos to the rest of you for making this such an interesting and enjoyable hobby, Matt Miller ################### From: dave evans Date: Mon, 02 Feb 98 20:02 EST Subject: Re: Nepenthes ampullaria concern Dear Peter, > I have a question concerning the slow, almost nil growth of my N. > ampullaria over the past several months. Moreover, I am seeing no > pitcher development. I am growing two plants in a sealed 10 gallon > aquarium (plenty of humidity I should think). I keep two 40 watt > flourescent tubes above the plants, a typical shoplight, around 12 > inches from the nepenthes. The tank temperature is around 74 F. ~~~~~~~~~~~~ During the day and night? Anyway, if that's you highest temp for the day, I think your plant is feeling a bit chilly. After watching my lowlanders for several years. (Each year I have more and the older ones keep getting bigger and changes in humidity and temp seem to affect the larger plants even more than the little ones...) I have noticed that lowland Neps, like N.ampullaria and N.rafflesiana stall out in winter. Oddly, it seems to take awhile for the lowered temps to slow the growth of lowlanders, while too much heat quickly shows it's face by stopping the growth of pitchers in highlanders. Dave Evans ################### From: mulyk@zoology.ubc.ca (Dean Mulyk) Date: Mon, 2 Feb 1998 17:28:03 -0700 Subject: where to buy Nepenthes in Canada Hi all; No doubt a somewhat oft asked question, but can anyone recommend a Canadian source for Nepenthes? Dean S. Mulyk mulyk@zoology.ubc.ca Dept. of Zoology University of British Columbia Vancouver, British Columbia CANADA V6T 1Z4 "Dogs can smell fear and so do dentists!" ################### From: "TheEdge" Date: Mon, 2 Feb 1998 21:53:40 -0000 Subject: Nepenthes Madagascariensis for trade/sale UPDATE Hello CP collectors, The Nepenthes Madagascariensis that I mentioned in previous postings may be for sale at a nursery near me are indeed, unfortunately, $14.95 each right now. As their supply dwindles and the plants decline in health, they may lower the price of the leftover plants to $4.95 as they have in the past. At $14.95 a plant, plus S&H, it is not really saving much (or any) money if you were to buy it from the nursery, or have me send one to you acting as a middleman between you and the nursery (at no additional cost). Numerous CP suppliers offer Nepenthes Madagascariensis at this price, maybe better, so I would personally suggest buying from them if you want one. If you still would like to buy one from the nursery, I would be happy to give you their address and phone number, and/or arrange for them to send you one or I can buy one and send it to you with a receipt. Sincerely, Matt - TheEdge@amdyne.net ################### From: manda@freeyellow.com Date: Mon, 02 Feb 98 22:42:51 EST Subject: Free Advertising For Your Business! Hi, Just wanted to pass along some info about a new piece of software I now call my "secret weapon". It's amazing! Listen to this... Me and hundreds of others can now reach "millions of potential customers" - absolutely FREE! A lot of us are creating immediate "cash flow explosions" - literally overnight! And blowing our competition right out of the water! You have to check this thing out. To get some details, all you have to do is visit our website and you'll get some information: http://206.133.27.106/~macs/netcontact.html Simple. Take care. I'll talk with you later. Mike :-) ______________________________________________ To Be Removed, reply with "remove" in the subject. Or Register with antispam.org ################### From: Derek Glidden Date: Mon, 2 Feb 1998 23:10:42 -0500 (EST) Subject: Silica sand After a few weeks of scouring hardware stores for silica sand, I finally tracked it down at a place here in Tampa called Colorock which is in the Yellow Pages under Building Supplies/Wholesale. All of the Home Depot-type stores I tried said they used to carry it, but now that pre-mixed concrete "ready-mix" is most common, there's no need to carry sand and conrete mix separately. Colorock is a building materials wholsaler, so they have tons of the stuff for people who need tons of concrete at a time where it's still cheaper to mix it instead of buy ready-mixed. Who ever thought sand would be so hard to find in Florida? :) -=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-= Derek Glidden http://www.illusionary.com Illusionary.com Home of the Pagan Resource Site Web development, database, graphics and general plumbing Linux, FreeBSD, Apache, MySQL, PostgreSQL, PHP (Say No to NT!) ################### From: Andrew Marshall Date: Mon, 2 Feb 1998 21:32:16 -0800 (PST) Subject: Angie's B. reducta Hi Angie, I have had two B. reducta bloom now and report the following. The tiny flowers rarely open except in bright sunlight, and then it seemed, only when I was not looking. When I did catch one open, (they did not open more then one at a time, though there were at least 50 flowers on the scape, and a dozen scapes on the plant) it would not self. Pollen taken from one of the basal scape flowers to one of the upper flowers would not set either. Unfortunatly, the two plants that bloomed missed each other by about a month so I could not out cross. In my opinion, it is futile to expect seed. Concentrate on getting pups. If you can, trade off your surplus for different clones so that you have a better chance of successful crossing. Good luck, and let me know what happens. This is one of my favorite plants. good growing Andrew Marshall ################### From: Craig S Gardner Date: Mon, 02 Feb 1998 22:11:11 -0800 Subject: Re: stratification (Darlingtonia) I have germinated hundreds of Darlingtonia seeds and have never stratified any of them and always get very close to 100 percent germination. > I have a question for the experts on the list. Is it necessary to stratify > Darlingtonia seeds in order to have them germinate? > Al Bickell -- Happy Growing Craig S. Gardner 173 Perry St. Ukiah, Ca. 95482 USA (707)462-5331 (707)468-1175 ################### From: Wim Leys Date: Tue, 03 Feb 1998 08:51:26 +0100 Subject: re: FREE CP seeds part II to JoHn Dear John I've tried to e-mail you privately, but the message bounced back. Here it is again. Please send your SAE together with a list of the seeds you'd like. Kind regards Wim Wim Leys Bierbeekstraat 30 3360 Korbeek-Lo Belgium Europe ################### From: koudela@ure.cas.cz Date: Tue, 3 Feb 1998 10:45:58 +0000 Subject: Lowrie Vol.3 Dear List, I hope everyone enjoys the info I got from the University of Western Australia Press although it is not too positive :-( Perhaps someone who speaks to Allen (hi Loyd, Eric) could ask him which species exactly will be covered. SPECIES COVERED IN VOL 3 Drosera: -tuberous -pygmy -tropical -miscellaneous Australian species -Utricularia -Nepenthes -Byblis -Aldrovanda -Cephalotus The book is now scheduled for release in August 1998. Most of the book is being typeset at present. Best regards, Ivo *************************************************** * Mgr. Ivo Koudela * * work address: home address: * * IREE AS Okruzni 25/21 * * Chaberska 57 Zdar nad Sazavou * * 182 51 Prague 8 591 01 * * Czech Republic Czech Republic * * tel: +422 6881804 * * fax: +422 6880222 * * e-mail: koudela@ure.cas.cz * *************************************************** ################### From: Joe Harden Date: Sat, 31 Jan 1998 07:46:00 -0600 Subject: Soil Acidifier I know I am not the only one out there that bought one of those Home Depot N. magadensis...and I hear of some of you out there with the leaves turning yellow. I tried out a soil acidifier, and I already am seeing a difference...and anyhow, a lot of CP's like this type of condition so here it goes... I bought Green Light brand "iron 4.6% @ Soil Acidifier"...I used the directions for a 6" pot, and cut the application in 1/2 just because this is CP and I really don't want to burn the plants. The reason for the iron applications? Iron chelates are very helpful for any plant - they help the plant in absorbing nutrients through the soil, mainly nitrogen. This is the weakest solution I found on the shelf, and even though I cut the dosage in half, My leaves seem to turning a nicer shade of green after 3 weeks. Also...for anyone that puts VFT's in their fridge for dormancy..my tip to you is DRY OUT THAT SOIL!!! I put 12 VFT's in my fridge, some with soaking wet medium, some with semi wet medium, and others with just about dry (not crumbly dry). 3 of 4 with wet medium were trashed...1 of 4 of the semi-wet was dead (good odds) but all my plants in dry soil are happy! That's all I got to say today...I'm monkey around with other Non-CP today (non cp, but cool plants)! Joe Harden ################### From: "Stefan Ploszak" Date: Tue, 03 Feb 1998 07:04:15 PST Subject: Re: Spectacular Sarr hybrid David wrote: >Now for some fun. Can you guess the parentage or better yet how and >in what order would you breed species and hybrids to get this jewel? >It's a very tall plant, on the order of a large flava or leucophylla >and the pitcher at the rim is very large. You just mentioned the parents. Although this clone looks more spectacular than most, it is a simple SXflava x leucophylla. And judging from the photo, I would say the flava parent is the "cut throat" (rugelii) variety. Pretty plants like this one are what make Sarr hybridizing such an art; you could make this same cross with several different parents and still never create something so spectacular. For those of you that have ordered Dr.Mellichamp's "Ladies-in-Waiting" and "Dixie Lace," you'll be getting the product of an artist's efforts. Can you tell I like these plants? All the best, Stefan ################### From: Denis Daly Date: Mon, 02 Feb 1998 21:55:14 -0800 Subject: Cephalotus Seed. Is it Recalcitrant? Dear Frank and list I have found that Cephalotus seed need to be sown almost immediately they are harvested in autumn. They will remain in the pot (moist) until spring when they will germinate. I used a batch of seeds collected from my own plants. Half were sown immediately (in autumn and germinated the following spring) while half were stored over winter and sown in spring. None germinated. [2] I believe that Cephalotus seeds are likely to be Recalcitrant. Moist cold storage (stratification) is useless if the seeds have dried out and died before you stratified them. The term recalcitrant is applied to seeds that remain viable for as little as a few days, months, or at most a year. [1]. However recalcitrant seeds are short lived primarily due to their sensitivity to reduced moisture content. [1] Recalcitrant seeds must retain a reasonably high moisture content of around 30 to 50% if they are to remain capable of germination. [1] The time of viability of most recalcitrant seeds, particularly temperate species, can be increased if the seeds are stored moist at temperatures just above freezing. [1] Seeds likely to be Recalcitrant:- 1) Seeds that are produced in spring or early summer and germinate very soon after they fall to the ground. [1] (e.g. Dionaea, Sarracenia (possibly if it's early enough in the season), Highland Nepenthes, certain Drosera, Heliamphora.) 2) Seeds of tropical plants that grow under conditions of high humidity and temperature. [1] (e.g. Lowland Nepenthes, some Mexican Pinguicula, certain Drosera.) 3) Seeds that mature in Autumn and spend the winter in moist or even frozen soil awaiting the spring. [1] (e.g. Dionaea, Sarracenia, Darlingtonia, Heliamphora, Cephalotus, certain Drosera, Utricularia, N. khasiana, US & European and some Mexican Pinguicula) 4) Many seeds of temperate aquatic plants. [1] (e.g. Aquatic Utricularia, Genlisea, Aldrovanda,) While I have cited various species of carnivorous plants to fall into the categories of natural seed storage that can lead to the species evolving Recalcitrant seeds it should be noted that it does not necessarily follow that the seeds are Recalcitrant. I do not have scientific proof but I believe that the possibility that many carnivorous plant seeds are Recalcitrant. Note that stratification is the same as moist cold storage. What matters is how much the seed might dry out before you put it into stratification (moist cold storage). For details see reference 3. References [1] HARMANN Hudson T., KESTER Dale E. & DAVIES Fred T. JR, Plant Propagation Principles and Practices, Prentice Hall Career and Technology, New Jersey, Fifth Edition, 1990, ISBN 0-13-681016-0. [2] DALY Denis, Propagation of some Specific Species of Carnivorous Plants, FlyTrap News Vol 9 No 1, July/August/September, 1995, The Carnivorous Plant society of NSW, ISSN 1323-8159. [3] DALY Denis, Storage of seeds .... are we killing them?, FlyTrap News Vol 10 No 4, April/May/June, 1997, The Carnivorous Plant society of NSW, ISSN 1323-8159. Regards Denis Daly P.S. Food for thought? ################### From: Chris Marsden Date: Tue, 3 Feb 1998 12:19:25 -0500 Subject: Re: label markers Jon, and I guess this is of interest to all, there was a discussion about marking labels on the Aroid-L a while ago, a= nd there I picked up the following tips: o To read faded labels read them under UV light (but obviously be careful= !) o To remove marker pen use nail varnish remover (acetone) o The best pen to use is 'Sharpie' extra permanent industrial marker. I g= ot mine from a flower show in the UK but I gather it is also available in th= e USA. It has lasted in sun and rain for years with no fading, it has a fin= e tip and is easy to write with and read. It is expensive, but it is worth = it (mine cost I think 4 GBP). Kindest Regards, Toby -------------------- Toby Marsden -------------------------------------------------------------------------= -- ------- Orleton Manor, Orleton, LUDLOW, Salop, SY8 4HR, England -------------------------------------------------------------------------= -- ------- ################### From: Dori Arazi Date: Tue, 03 Feb 1998 20:21:00 +0200 Subject: Aquatic CP Hello , I am looking for a good way to obtain aquatic CP ( as specially the Aldrovanda ). I have a 60 gallon aquarium which I split in half by a glass plate into a terrarium / aquarium. What type of water do I use for them. what aquatic insects should I grow for food? Do they grow under the same conditions I keep my terrestrial plants? Any help will be most welcome thanks ****** *Dori* ****** ################### From: ricell@juno.com Date: Tue, 3 Feb 1998 12:23:01 -0700 Subject: N. philippinensis Phil Mann's excellent web page has several pictures labelled "N. philippinensis?" (note question mark). I have a plant that was labelled N. alata 'philippinensis' when I got it that I have blithely assumed should now be labelled N. phillipinensis. Superficially, my plants do not look that much like the pictures on Phil's page, but then it appears that Phil is not certain of the identity of the pictured plants either. Can anyone give advice on how to differentiate N. phillipinensis from say a red alata? Thanks, Richard Ellis "ricell@juno.com" Boulder, CO ################### From: MaxxKills@aol.com Date: Tue, 3 Feb 1998 16:05:15 EST Subject: Re: Cephalotus In a message dated 98-02-01 17:29:04 EST, you write: << What is the best method to get Cephalotus seeds to germinate? I have tried various methods including stratification with no success. >> Ceph seeds go bad in a hurry. Lee ################### From: RSbra123@aol.com Date: Tue, 3 Feb 1998 20:23:57 EST Subject: Re: label markers > Jon, and I guess this is of interest to all, > > there was a discussion about marking labels on the Aroid-L a while ago, and > there I picked up the following tips: > > o To read faded labels read them under UV light (but obviously be careful!) > > o To remove marker pen use nail varnish remover (acetone) > > o The best pen to use is 'Sharpie' extra permanent industrial marker. I got > mine from a flower show in the UK but I gather it is also available in the > USA. It has lasted in sun and rain for years with no fading, it has a fine > tip and is easy to write with and read. It is expensive, but it is worth it > (mine cost I think 4 GBP). > On a related note, I heard good suggestion at a BACPS meeting a while back. It was suggested to make a second label and slide it completely below the soil level (shorten it if necessary). Then you have a backup if the first label gets removed or fades. Ron Sbragia ################### From: Richard Brown Date: Tue, 03 Feb 1998 20:23:25 -0500 Subject: Re:Nepenthes ampullaria concerns Peter, In addition to Dave Evans comments; here in Florida, in my "greenhouse" , winter temps get up to 85 degrees F during sunny days, but may be down to 58-64 degrees F the same night. Once temps drop below 55, I turn on the heat. Humidity will vary, dropping as low as 55% during the few warmest hours, but as soon as temps drop it may soar back up to around 70-80%. My ampullarias, from tiny tissue cultured babies to medium sized plants, all seem to like this. I get big, colorful pitchers. However, they do slow down to a painstaking pace. They are never fast growers, even in the summer. I believe the shorter days of winter is the main culprit for the slowdown of growth. I notice you are using artificial light. A "typical shoplight ", if I understand you correctly, probably does not radiate the proper spectrum for plant growth. I'm not experienced in the area of artificial light sources, but perhaps you should check into this. Until later, Trent Meeks Pompano Beach, Florida ################### From: Richard Brown Date: Tue, 03 Feb 1998 20:43:42 -0500 Subject: Re: N, ventricosa or burkei? >could you please explain what the differences are? >...besides for color and size. Hi Dave and other interested CPers, Gladly. The pitchers are the main difference. They are more infundibulate (I don't have my Nepenthes lit. with me as I am at the office. I believe this latin term refers to a "funnel" shape) , that is, the pitcher is narrow at the base, becoming much broader at the peristome. Now, this is a young plant, so I know the difference between an upper and lower pitcher on ventricosa. It looks like neither. The lid is held over the pitcher like a lower pitcher on a ventricosa. The pitcher is bronzy colored in the lower half, becoming red tingued in the upper part. Peristome is red, ridged, strongly reflexed like ventricosa. I have yet to see an upper pitcher. I understand a plant of this same desciption is in the collection at Atlanta Botanical Gardens. It is tagged N. burkei. Until later, Trent Meeks Pompano Beach, Florida. ################### From: "Zachary Kaufman" Date: Tue, 03 Feb 1998 21:05:12 PST Subject: marker pens for labels >Hi, >Does anyone have a marker for labels that lasts. I tried permanent >ink and that fades, pen and pencil rub off... any advice appreciated. >Thanks! > Jon I bought a special marker pen from Charlie's Greenhouse Supply in Oregon that is meant for this. It works great and doesn't seem to fade. --Zachary-- ################### From: "Edward Read" Date: Wed, 4 Feb 1998 00:59:50 -0800 Subject: Ping pictures my web page to see Hello everyone, I just wanted to let all the ping fans know that I put some pictures of my pings on my page. No, unfortunately I haven't put up the pictures from my last trip to Oaxaca, but they'll be up some day. Well, have fun and enjoy! Just click on the Taxonomy and Photos section of this c.p.page http://www.geocities.com/rainforest/9848/page3.html Take Care, Edward Read ################### From: Loyd Wix Date: 04 Feb 1998 12:51:29 Z Subject: Re. Lowrie Vol.3 Dear Ivo, due to the continued delay in the publication of Vol.3 I long since stopped troubling Allen about it. Regarding species, I remember him telling me 2 maybe 3 years ago that the book would include 18 Utrics from Southern Australia together with the tuberous and pygmy Drosera published since vols.1 and 2. Regards Loyd ################### From: "Mellard, David" Date: Wed, 4 Feb 1998 08:16:00 -0500 Subject: off topic Could I impose on someone in Great Britain to buy a few sheets of the Princess Diana stamps and mail them to me in a heavily protected envelope. I will pay in US stamps, US dollars, international reply coupons, or Sarr seed or whatever. David Atlanta USA ################### From: Wim Leys Date: Wed, 04 Feb 1998 16:50:26 +0100 Subject: Re: Free CP seeds and BG Gent Hi everybody, especially Guy, Someone pointed me out that you have send a message to the CP list about the seeds I am offering to members op the CP Discussion Group. > That Guy van der Kinderen guy is quite incredible. As I saw on the list he almost suggests that you are a thief in the > night stealing CP's from the botanical garden in Gent!!! Ignoring him like you did is the best thing to do. > Now it's not that I was going to ignore such a message. It's just that it I've been so busy that I have not had the time to read a pile of digests. > purpurea purpurea origin : Botanical Garden Ghent > (mislabelled, is probably a hybrid between S. purpurea purpurea and S. >We're still wondering what the value may be to the people who may be >interested to have these seeds? Or is there another purpose? I always try to keep the origin of plants with the plant, so if after a while somebody says, hey, this N. maxima from nursery X is in fact a N. x idonowhat I can justify the labels on my plants. This plant differs considerably from my other S. purpurea purpurea's. So I found it important to point that out to the people. But the plant is (was) labelled that way by the BG of Ghent and that's where the parent plant comes from. The flowers were selfed and it generates the same kind of S. purpurea purpurea like plants, so I am in doubt, is it another variety or is it an hybrid. > It has been always the policy of BG Gent to leave the CP collection > to the concern of CP Society Drosera, namely its board. In the period > Mr. Leys took or got this plant from BG Gent, he was member of this > board. > This plant was given to me by the former chairman, Freddy De Coninck. > But it was clear at that time, that certain people where more > concerned about their own collection, than checking for instance the > BG collection for possible wrong labels, as they were supposed > to have some expertise in CP taxonomy. > Some other people and I have pointed this questionable naming out to Freddy, who was in charge of the collection. The fact that this label may never have changed is not due to the fact that it was not mentioned. About the fact that "certain people where more concerned about their own collection", I certainly hope you are not referring to me. As you were well aware that I was a student or in military service at that time and that I have spend many many Saturdays working in the CP collection of the BT garden. It was during one of those times that Freddy gave me this plant. It took me 2 hours (go and return) by train to get there, and I had to pay for the train tickets while you lived a couple of miles away,. Will you please be so kind to say if I belong to those "certain people" ? > It was also clear that > certain people tried to use the Society as an area of distribution > for their own trades, and BG Gent as a source for it. They still are > harvesting the seeds of it. Fortunately, times have changed. > I totally agree with what you are saying here. As I was the treasurer of the society I was well aware of who has spend money on what purposes. So I was also aware of large sums of money that were spend to house people in hotels. When so many time later those persons showed their gratitude towards all this generosity, by sending seeds or plants, they all went straight to one particular collection. When I pointed this out, I was told that as the letter/package was send to Mister xxx, and not to the society, he considered all those benefits his own. Another point. The year after I left the board, I have checked the overview of the finances of the society. About 85000 Belgian franks (+- 2400 $) was missing. I have said this to the present treasurer. He assured me that he would check this out and that he would contact me for further information. Can you tell me what the status of this investigation is ? I haven't heard of it since. So it seems to me that "Unfortunately, times have not changed." Guy, please. I left the society because of all the friction and the fights. Please, don't start this fighting again on this list. If you really want to continue this, do it using private e-mail. You could have done this in the first place. I won't be able to answer your mails until next Monday. Kind regards Wim ################### From: Nigel Hurneyman Date: Wed, 4 Feb 1998 14:50:54 -0000 Subject: Re: Mr Lowries forthcoming publications - take 2 Hi Loyd, I am not familiar with Nuytsia or how to obtain it. Could you send the details to the listserver please if you think it would be of general interest. Thanks, NigelH ################### From: "Kamil Pasek" Date: Wed, 4 Feb 1998 20:08:05 +0100 Subject: Gemmae available I have available this gemmae now: D. scorpioides (3 gemmae per portion) D. nitidula ssp. leucostigma D. nitidula ssp. alantostigma D. nitidula ssp. alantostigma x D. ericksoniae D. nitidula ssp. nitidula D. nitidula ssp. omissa D. roseana D. oreopodion I will send this species everyone free - only for postage and package - US$ 6 for each parcel. If you are interested in something write me please QUICKLY your concrete request and SNAIL ADDRESS. Best regards, Kamil _____________________________________________________ Kamil Pasek, L. Podeste 1871, 70800 Ostrava 8, Czech Republic e. mail : kamil.pasek@usa.net, adela.revue@post.cz _____________________________________________________ ################### From: Oliver T Massey CFS Date: Wed, 4 Feb 1998 13:39:58 -0500 (EST) Subject: Re: N. lavicola seed Brian: Received the seed in yesterday's mail. Seed look great, can't wait to get the lil'suckers planted. Good growing Tom in Florida ################### From: "Ernest Ming" Date: Wed, 4 Feb 1998 20:02:36 -0000 Subject: Seeds of various species of Droseras in need of advice Hello to all of you on the list, I am in need of some advice in germinating seeds of various Droseras and the care needed after germination. This is because I am infact very new to C.Ps, only taken up for 1 month or so. I currently have seeds of the following species : d.rotundifolia, d.dichrosepala, d.carlifornian sunset, d.petiolaris, d.stolonifera,dionaea muscipula., d,burmannii, d.pulchella. I understand that most of you would probably not have all of them but saying that any help and advice for any of the above is much appreciated. I would also like to know the time to sow the above seeds though my guess is around spring for most of them, the medium and conditions etc... Also I would like to know which kinds are what type of droseras eg. pygmies, tuberous etc... All kinds of help is welcomed. Looking forward to hearing from you, Thanx in advance anyway, Nice growing all of you. Ernie. P.s - Thanx again for your seeds Leigh. ################### From: pfk6@juno.com (Peter F. Keller) Date: Wed, 4 Feb 1998 10:20:35 -0500 Subject: Lowrie's Vol #3 As of January 21, 1998, Lowrie's Vol #3 was still at the type-setters. From there it has to go to the printer, so at this time it looks like the book will not be out for some time......................... ################### From: "Peter M." Date: Thu, 5 Feb 1998 00:42:25 +0100 Subject: Re: FREE CP SEEDS & GUY VAN DER KINDEREN Dear Readers, This is the first time I have taken pen to paper.. or more appropriatly fingers to keys. I wished I did not feel the need to post this entry, however upon reading a particularly misleading, incorrect and toally unnecessary entry, written in impeccable english by Guy Van der Kinderen, I felt I had to fire up my PC and post an entry of my own. Before going on I feel that this forum... is not the place to post this sort of entry.. ARE YOU READING GUY????!!! For this interested.. here we go... I was a member of DROSERA (the organisation Guy referred to in his posting here). I would like to convey my disappointment that after so many years Guy felt it necessarry to incorrectly present information that is neither constructive, useful or otherwise of benefit to those readers who would like to take advantage of Wim's generous offer. I have known Wim for many years, if he has a fault which is of any consequence to any of us, then it is that he is to generous. During his tenure as treasurer of Drosera, Wim discharged his obligations with great efficiency and correctness.. he never made misuse of his position.. period! I would like to point out that on Wim's joining Drosera, he was already in possession of one of the most impressive collections of self sown, grown and cared for plants that I have ever seen. During his association with Drosera, Wim, and others like him, had a single goal, to share knowledge, experiences.. and plants. Regrettably these efforts were not appreciated by some of the more protective (jealous??) members of Drosera. Exchange of plants was always the main goal of any meeting.. However not everyone (including myself) had material to exchange.. and so plants were frequently given away.. or 'horror or horrors' sold (forgive the use of a four letter word). This last activity was seen as flagrent commercialism.. a totally absurd accusation, given that those who levelled it were not in a position to provide any of us 'newbies' with any of those so sorely sought after items mentioned above. All the good guys have long since left Drosera. The club grows smaller every year ... I am sorry, I wish it had been otherwise, there is so much we could have learnt from each other. Thanks Wim.. keep up the good work. Guy.. you could take a lesson... in future limit yourself to something that matters... and if you have something of a personal nature you feel you must get off your spleen.. do it in private.... BTW my email address is P.MULLER@USA.NET Sorry for polluting this otherwise excellent forum Cheers Peter ################### From: MaxxKills@aol.com Date: Wed, 4 Feb 1998 20:34:18 EST Subject: CP seed Does anyone have any Heliamphora and or Nepenthes seed that they could sell/give me? Thanks! Ma.\\' ################### From: Guy.VanDerKinderen@rug.ac.be Date: Thu, 5 Feb 1998 08:59:53 +0000 Subject: Re: Free CP seeds and BG Gent; sorry, one more Hi Wim and friends, > > That Guy van der Kinderen guy is quite incredible. As I saw on the > > list he almost suggests that you are a thief in the night stealing > > CP's from the botanical garden in Gent!!! Ignoring him like you did > > is the best thing to do. Well, clearly he did not. And, btw, it was not during the night. > This plant differs > considerably from my other S. purpurea purpurea's. So I found it > important to point that out to the people. But the plant is (was) > labelled that way by the BG of Ghent and that's where the parent plant > comes from. The flowers were selfed and it generates the same kind of > S. purpurea purpurea like plants, so I am in doubt, is it another > variety or is it an hybrid. Why do you point it out to the people on the list, and not to those who really need to know about this? Again, the BG Gent left the expertise to name and maintain its collection to people who she trusted to have the knowledge. > This plant was given to me by the former chairman, Freddy De Coninck. > Some other people and I have pointed this questionable naming out to > Freddy, who was in charge of the collection. The fact that this label > may never have changed is not due to the fact that it was not > mentioned. That's your story. > About the fact that "certain people where more concerned about their own > collection", I certainly hope you are not referring to me. This was a general remark concerning those who were supposed to keep the collection. And this indeed concerns more people than only Freddy. Unfortunately, some of them were especially seen when new plant materal was arrived at the BG, or they only came for the reward. > As you were > well aware that I was a student or in military service at that time and > that I have spend many many Saturdays working in the CP collection of > the BT garden. You did? > It was during one of those times that Freddy gave me this > plant. It took me 2 hours (go and return) by train to get there, and I > had to pay for the train tickets while you lived a couple of miles > away,. Sorry that I lived closer to the BG than you. We have on the other hand members living in the opposite part of Belgium (including students), never claiming about this, just because they like to give a helping hand. > I totally agree with what you are saying here. As I was the treasurer of > the society I was well aware of who has spend money on what purposes. So > I was also aware of large sums of money that were spend to house people > in hotels. When so many time later those persons showed their gratitude > towards all this generosity, by sending seeds or plants, they all went > straight to one particular collection. When I pointed this out, I was > told that as the letter/package was send to Mister xxx, and not to the > society, he considered all those benefits his own. Strange, we never heard these claims on general meetings of the Society. What I do know is that you were voted away as a treasurer. > Another point. The year after I left the board, I have checked the > overview of the finances of the society. About 85000 Belgian franks (+- > 2400 $) was missing. I have said this to the present treasurer. He > assured me that he would check this out and that he would contact me for > further information. Can you tell me what the status of this > investigation is ? I haven't heard of it since. So it seems to me that > "Unfortunately, times have not changed." Well, we did check your bookkeeping after you left, and did find very, very strange things. Not only 'large sums for hotels', but especially several books which were ordered but never found back in the library, large sums for telephone-bills, ... It looks strange to me that an ex-treasurer overviews the finances of a society a year after he has left the board. Why did'nt you do this during your bookkeeping job, or jus after you stopped? So, if we had to do an investigation (although I never heard about this), we surely do not have to tell people who left the board and the society. > Guy, please. I left the society because of all the friction and the > fights. Please, don't start this fighting again on this list. As I stated before, you were voted away by the members, and there may have been a reason for this. > If you really want to continue this, do it using private e-mail. You > could have done this in the first place. I will. Sorry folks! Nevertheless, from your seedlist, people (of the whole list) might conclude BG Gent is unable to make proper labelling. We were just wondering who's telling us, because we know better. Kind regards, That Guy Van der Kinderen guy ################### From: "Ernest Ming" Date: Thu, 5 Feb 1998 10:06:19 -0000 Subject: interesting behaviour of my VFT Hello everybody on the list, I am not sure whether very small seedlings are suppose to behave in this way but I find it quite interesting so thus I want to share my experience with you lot. Well, I have sowed the VFT seeds during early december and they have germinated about 1 month ago and still have its initial leaves on.There were 5 seedlings of which only one came through but guess its myself to blame for sowing them too early and not giving them what they needed etc.. Any way that sole survivor has produced 1 trap and is producing several other which are now visible"just" that oldest trap is the only one that is matured enough to open up or close. Some how or other i have observed its interesting behaviour, it didn't struck be of its unusualness till it did the third time. This was what happened : ( bear in mind that this plant is in a 2" pot with 1" water and its artificial light is my table lamp - halogen type, it sits on my desk.) everyday the trap was opened as it is new then one day it closed, I thus though it caught something as this took place at night and i am out most day time. I was wrong, it opened up the next morning with nothing in it. That night it did it again and so now every night its trap closes and each morning it opens up and has been doing for the past 5 days. I thus is wondering if any of you have seen such unusual behaviour, I also think that it might be related to too much light or self timed mechanism of the plant or some kind of photo sensitive thing with it. Any ideas people? Ernie p.s - read my previous message cause i really need help with those droseras. thanx ################### From: Kent Kratz Date: Wed, 04 Feb 1998 22:35:00 -0500 Subject: Markers I like the Pilot SCA-UF. It is a ultra fine point permanent pen. Comes in several colors and will last for a year in the sun and several in the shade. You can write on the epidermis of leaves and, as long as you do not break through, the ink will last as long as the leaf surface. I use it to label plant parts prior to sterilization in Chlorox and it comes through fine. If you really want something that will last, get the marking pens that they use to write numbers on ear tags for cattle. That ink lasts for years even when exposed to the sun. Not a particularly fine point. You may find that the surface of the plastic label will degrade and the ink will fade due to the loss of the underlieing plastic. Kent ################### From: "Mellard, David" Date: Thu, 5 Feb 1998 08:15:00 -0500 Subject: Re: Free CP seeds and BG Gent; sorry, one more Re: the story of BG Ghent and Drosera. ok guys, enough of this. I lost interest after the 2nd email on this topic and no longer read them. Plus, I can no longer follow the point for point each of you so carefully make. It's falling on deaf ears so take this debate to just your personal computer screens. Leave this cp list member out of it. David ################### From: Loyd Wix Date: 05 Feb 1998 13:49:21 Z Subject: Nuytsia Dear Nigel, >I am not familiar with Nuytsia or how to obtain it. Could >you send the details to the listserver please if you think >it would be of general interest. Ok when I get copies of the relevant article(s) I will provide a summary assuming no one else on the list beats me to it. Regards Loyd ################### From: "kamikaze" <011114@hillstrath.on.ca> Date: Thu, 5 Feb 1998 08:53:29 -0400 Subject: ibeccela lutea I was wondering how to germinate ibicella seeds? adwait ################### From: Larry Mellichamp Date: Thu, 05 Feb 1998 13:14:48 -0600 Subject: Re: marking labels My experience over 20 years has been that NO ink pen marker will hold up on any label more than 2-3 years outdoors. BUT, plain old No. 2 pencil written on a vinyl label (not polystyrene) or metal (zinc-plated types) will last forever (or 20 years, I haven't gone beyond that). I have plastic labels 20 years old in the grenehouse that are just as good as yesterday. I have 20 year old zinc labels outside that have rusted away on the parts underground, but the pencil writing is still excellent on the above ground label part. Best wishes, Larry Larry Mellichamp Biology Dept. UNC Charlotte Charlotte, NC 28223 phone (704) 547-4055 Fax (704) 547-3128 E-Mail FBI00TLM@email.UNCC.EDU ################### From: Susan Ziegler Date: Thu, 05 Feb 1998 20:02:12 -0600 Subject: arguement on seeds I don't know much about the Ghent stuff.. but arguing about where the seeds came from seems quite silly I think... They ARE seeds.. no matter where they came from.. They all were formed by the plant when it was pollinated... To me it seems a little like humans with their discriminations about race.. but thats me.. Perhaps if you wish to continue the argument, take it to private emails, thank you :) Susan Ziegler ################### From: "PHILL MANN" Date: Mon, 2 Feb 1998 20:54:19 -0800 Subject: New Home Page Hi to all those involved with the CP group, many of you who I already know. I have finally listed my homepage which is still a little rough around the edges but at least up and going. There are over 70 photographs included, and for the dedicated Nepenthes people a treat in the first time published photographs of rare and new species, such as N. argentii (cheek & Jebb) the smallest of all Nepenthes, N. klossii and N.paniculata the two elusive never seen before species from Irian Jaya along with N. insignis , N. lamii and a new species also from Irian Jaya. There is also the unidentified species from the Philippines which is supposedly N. philippinesis and the new described species N. sibuyanensis soon to be published. N. x trusmadiensis (N. macrophylla x lowii) from Borneo and many more of my selections. I hope you enjoy them. The address is http://webnews.altu.net.au/~philmann/ ################### From: "Judy Clark" Date: Thu, 5 Feb 1998 11:51:02 -0500 Subject: Sarracenia Hybrids proper credit Hello list First of all I believe proper credit should be given to Larry Mellichamp of UNCC universty, and Rob Gardner of NCBG.atUNC university, It is for there efforts and years of hard work ,the world is a richer place because of them.In 1997 HISTORY was made when they came out with the first complex Sarracenia hybrids ever in tissue culture.Not simple F-1 hybrids but F-4 F-5 F-6 .That means crosses of crosses and back crosses and so on .For and example take this simple cross.S flava X S.purpurea venosa thats a F-1 cross that with S.leucophylla and you have a F-2 ,so now you see that it takes a long time ,patience and some measure of knowledge of these plants. Larrys plant was Dixie Lace , Robs plant was Ladies in Waiting and Fred Cases was Cases Resovle .These plants were hard to acclimate to soil conditions out of tissue culture,but me and others are giving it a shot .I'm sure that they will have more of them this spring ,and others to follow soon.These plants are a true wonder of the sarracenia kingdom,and with Larrys names like Tweedle Dee Boob Tube Black Ankle Sultry Maid Snorkle Catapult and so on.They can only get better from here ,so keep up the good work boys.and yes I can remember it like it was yesterday when the first multipul complexe sarracenia hybrids were made in T.C. David Crump @ Carolina Carnivorous Gardens 4174 Welling Ave, Charlotte, N.C. 28208 704 399-3045 ################### From: koudela@ure.cas.cz Date: Fri, 6 Feb 1998 07:58:06 +0000 Subject: a few gemmae available Dear List, I have a few spare gemmae of D.echinoblastus and D.scorpioides which I would like to offer to one or two guys either in exchange or for a small amount of money covering postage & packing. If anybody is interested, don't forget to answer privately, not to the listserv! On a different note, I would like to thank Lorraine Patsco and Stefan P.Wolf for their help with the CP book list. There are a few others who helped me as well but in general they have been only a few so far! Does this mean no one else has new information or nobody is willing to help me? BTW, as regards a recent war among (ex)DROSERA members, I do think it should be left to private message!!! I suspect we cannot find out he is true and who is wrong so why don't you omit the listserv address from the recipients? Regards, Ivo *************************************************** * Mgr. Ivo Koudela * * work address: home address: * * IREE AS Okruzni 25/21 * * Chaberska 57 Zdar nad Sazavou * * 182 51 Prague 8 591 01 * * Czech Republic Czech Republic * * tel: +422 6881804 * * fax: +422 6880222 * * e-mail: koudela@ure.cas.cz * *************************************************** ################### From: "Edward Read" Date: Thu, 5 Feb 1998 22:57:03 -0800 Subject: ibicella seed germination method Hi, about the ibicella seed germination question. I had very good germination by placing the seed on a damp paper towel, sprinkling GA3 on them, folding the paper towel over them and placing them in a plastic bag. I had germination in two weeks. As for the sprinkling of GA3, just get a little bit on the end of a flat tooth pick and sprinkle it right on top. I had questions about this method at first, but it works and is simple. I got all of my B. gigantea seed to germinate using this same method. Well, this is what has worked for me. Take care everyone and have fun! Edward Read ay080@lafn.org http://www.geocities.com/rainforest/9848/ Any chemistry jokes are welcome, my profesor needs them. ################### From: "D.Fraser" Date: Fri, 6 Feb 98 09:42:43 GMT Subject: CP's Hi everyone, I tuned out of CP digest for a while because of the rubbish that has been clogging the system. That is the personal attacks that are taking place through the digest. I grow CP and I want ot share some information about seedling, N. madagascarensis. Do not overwater and they do not like too high humidity. Sorry Cindy, they germinated well but they turned black and died under a plastic propagator cover. Meryl Fraser ################### From: Christophe Bauffe - Zoologie =?iso-8859-1?Q?g=E9n=E9rale_?= et Date: Fri, 06 Feb 1998 11:50:57 +0000 Subject: utricularia gibba hi list, sorry for the drosera strory's (hello wim (thank you for seeds), hello guy) , that's a bad serial films, a belgian story. Little country and big= trouble. My message is to ask for the conditions to keep utricularia gibba in good conditions. I have received some one to laurent ide (thank you laurent) and it is sick. I have put this in a aquarium with rain water, a lot of peat and most animalcules (daphnie, cyclops, etc..). Nothing to do. It is not in form. Please, help me, what must i make to keep my utricularia gibba.=20 Thanx, thanx, thanx, thanx Christophe ------------------------------------------------------ Christophe Bauffe Unit=E9 de Zoologie g=E9n=E9rale et appliqu=E9e Facult=E9 des Sciences agronomiques=20 Passage des D=E9port=E9s, 2 5030 Gembloux, Belgium T=E9l : 081/62.22.86. - Fax : 081/62.23.12. E-mail : bauffe.c@fsagx.ac.be #############