################### From: Jan@pbc-ths1.pci.chemie.uni-tuebingen.de (Jan Schlauer) Date: Tue, 2 Jan 1996 11:51:21 +0100 Subject: Re: N.* coccinea??? Dear Dave, >Anyway, I've been thinking about N.* coccinea and N.* wrigleana. >On your list they both have the same mix of parent and grandparent >with the only difference between them being that N.* coc has N.* >hookeriana as the female parent while N.* wrig has N.mirabilis >as the female parent. This don't seem right to me since N.coc >looks a lot more like N.rafflesiana while N.wrig looks like N. >mirabilis (as it should). Are you sure you are talking about original clones of these two hybrids? The drawing of N.* coccinea (Gard.Chron.2.ser.18:169, 1882) has rather little similarity to _N.rafflesiana_, while the (probably male) parent _N.mirabilis_ reveals himself e.g. in the finely denticulate margin of the leaf base. The drawing of N.* wrigleyana (Gard.Chron.2.ser.17:143, 1882) is similar (to the one of N.* coccinea) but the denticulate margin is missing (instead, the tendril is slightly hairy). > The only problem is that I can't find mention of N.ampullaria * >N.mirabilis (or visa versa) hybrid. Now this seems rather amazing >to me when you consider the large number of hybrids involving >these three species; N.ampullaria, mirabilis and rafflesiana. >They all = the same formula of 1/4 amp, 1/4 raff and 1/2 mir. >Do all these hybrids look different? None of these hybrids is very spectacular (in hybrids, characteristic features of the parent species are always diluted). The differences are slight (but sometimes discernible). >If so, I guess the parentage >of N.* coccinea would be correct; but it just seems improbable What do you mean by "just", exactly? Why do you think it is improbable? > and looking at the plants, incorrect. You should rather look at the original publications and the original material (of which rather little survived in the collections!) than on (possibly misidentified or wrongly labelled) "the plants" (of maybe doubtful origin). Kind regards Jan ################### From: "Paul Temple" Date: Tue, 02 Jan 96 15:49:38 +0000 Subject: Re: CP digest 575 +---------------------------+ TM From: Paul Temple | | | | | | | | Dept: Digital | d | i | g | i | t | a | l | Func: Net Comms | | | | | | | | DTN: 7781-1582 +---------------------------+ Easynet: fangio::temple_p Internet: temple_p@gmt.dec.com Loc/MS: GMT In reply to Sara's enquiry as to gnat eating CP's ... Wayne's reply answered many points but I thought I'd just add that Pinguicula moranensis has a long history of being the plant (I mean THE PLANT) that orchid growers have used to keep down small flies that could endanger the orchids. There are many versions of P. moranensis, many incorrectly named or using names invalid for many years now, but that shouldn't stop you using the plants. Anything calling itself a variety of P. moranensis (any variety) or possibly using names like "P. caudata" or "P. mexicana" are good. As hybrids tend to be more vigorous you could also use any hybrid of tender species (e.g. P. x kewensis, P. x 'Tina', P. x 'Weser'). In america this probably means any hybrid as I doubt there are many, if any, hybrids of hardy species available through commercial outlets. (I'm sure someone will correct me if I'm wrong). Going back to Wayne's reply, you'll never trap all the gnats using CP's. But if you keep them poorly, you'll actually increase the gnat population (but I'm sure the gnats will be grateful). Try to ensure that while in growth, the Pinguiculas (or other CP's) cover as much of the soil as possible and that little or no plant material remains rotting on exposed soil. I suggest that you even consider covering exposed soil in a layer of neutral rock, the best being granulated (or even pulverised) volcanic rock (very sharp, very dry to touch but it actually retains and absorbs water). Any exposed soil will attract gnat egg laying if there is any rotting vegetation available as a food supply. Regards Paul ################### From: "Jeffrey Michael Stein" Date: Tue, 2 Jan 1996 11:08:38 -0500 (EST) Subject: Seed germination. There is a simpler way to germinate Drosophyllum seed without using GA3. Try soaking the seeds in distilled water for 24 hours or so. Michael Chamberland suggested this to me once. It reduced the length until germination down to 3 -4 weeks. Those of you using 500ppm GA3 are probably wasting money. That is an enormously high concentration. I've had very good results with a 24 hour soak in 1mg/L (1ppm) with D. spathulata. This soak reduced the germination time to two weeks. The control still hasn't germinated after 6 weeks. Jeff ################### From: "Paul Temple" Date: Tue, 02 Jan 96 16:16:49 +0000 Subject: Aldrovanda, algae and fish! +---------------------------+ TM From: Paul Temple | | | | | | | | Dept: Digital | d | i | g | i | t | a | l | Func: Net Comms | | | | | | | | DTN: 7781-1582 +---------------------------+ Easynet: fangio::temple_p Internet: temple_p@bst.dec.com Loc/MS: UCG A short note hoping I've not repeated too much of earlier correspondance on the subject. Despite some limited expertise with Pings, I've not grown all the available CP's and I've certainly killed my fair share whilst experimenting. Aldrovanda always was one of those plants I killed! A recent field trip (i.e. 1995) led to a new friend giving me a new piece to try. (I won't name him in case it exposes him to thousands of unwanted requests - but he knows who he is and I'm really grateful). I've tried all sorts of treatment before but nothing worked. This time I used rainwater that had been boiled with sphagnum-moss peat (as opposed to sedge peat). The rainwater was maintained at 80 degrees F.. At the base of the tank I had a one inch (2.5 cm in fact) of the thoroughly boiled peat, all covered by about 0.5 inch (1.5 cm actually) of aquarium gravel to keep the peat fixed (it does love to float). Oh yes, I used a standard aquarium pump and aerator stone to ensure an oxygen supply. Then I left the lights on (a 20 watt, 18 inch long Fluorescent Tube) for 24 hours a day for five weeks! I started with two small pieces of Aldrovanda, each piece unbranched. I now have about 15 or more healthy branches each ending in a luscious looking bud, assuring me of more plants. So much for how to grow Aldrovanda. One problem though. After two weeks I couldn't see anything. The aquarium glass was thick with algae, ruining the view and potentially threatening the Aldrovanda. Now I've seen all the notes I ever wanted to see on experimenting with algicides or snails (snails?!!!). So what else might work? I used to keep fish as pets (well why not. A fish can get to know you, it never yaps, very few bite and the vet fees are non-existent). So I thought I'd try. In one week, the fish returned the glass to being completely algae clear with no sign of any fish attacking the Aldrovanda. So which fish? Well Pleco's are the answer. To the scientists out there, this mainly includes the Plecostomus family (such as the unforgettable and very very large Plecostomus plecostomus). However, in the same family there are several related genera, all with mouths adapted for rasping off algae from falt surfaces, and of them all there are several species far smaller than the relatively enormous Plecostomus plecostomus. So if you fancy experimenting, trot down to your friendly fish hobbyist shop and research availability of any of the PYGMY species in the Pleco group (remember, it's not limited to just the Plecostomus genus). The smallest don't grow beyond about 2 inches (nearly 5 cm) in legth. One small (1.5 cm long) fish will be sufficient to keep a 12" x 12" x 24" (30cm x 30 cm x 36cm) tank completely clear. However, do be kind to the fish. Pleco's are friendly and like each other's company so never keep less than three in a tank. If they run out of algae, feed them a leaf of raw lettuce weighted down with stones (or traditionalists can use lead). Also plant a few dwarf aquatic flat leafed plants as Pleco's like to rest on the leaves. Regards Paul (who's mail now seems to be working again) ################### From: "Michael.Chamberland" <23274MJC@MSU.EDU> Date: Tue, 02 Jan 96 11:44 EST Subject: Aldrovanda, algae and fish! Can anyone refresh me on the distribution of Aldrovanda, and the kind of habitat it prefers? Re: Plecos, what is their common name? Algae-eaters? (those catfish-like brown fishes?). Are they usually pretty big? Do they get in the plant itself and clean it, or do they mostly clean algae off the tank walls and bottom? Michael Chamberland ################### From: "Paul Temple" Date: Tue, 02 Jan 96 16:45:17 +0000 Subject: Pinguicula jackii; how to kill a ... +---------------------------+ TM From: Paul Temple | | | | | | | | Dept: Digital | d | i | g | i | t | a | l | Func: Net Comms | | | | | | | | DTN: 7781-1582 +---------------------------+ Easynet: fangio::temple_p Internet: temple_p@bst.dec.com Loc/MS: UCG Those following the intrepid adventures of a wandering amateur botanist will no doubt be familiar (= bored) with the stories of how to find a Pinguicula jackii. So, because I love to keep people interested, here's an update on how to kill a P. jackii. First you plant it in a special environment so that it receives special attention. Then you simulate the wild environment - in this case, using a "soil" of really hard calcareous rock. And you water it constantly using a tray that can hold enough water to last a week. Then comes the tricky bit - listen carefully - you get food poisoning and while busy trying to die for two weeks, you neglect little things like telling your girlfriend to water certain rather valuable plants that you've placed out of the way (so she doesn't water them when she waters the other plants). When you get well you are highly likely to find a shrivelled mass to be very proud of. However, frustrated actor that I am, all is not what it seems. Had I remained ill for a third week, P. jackii may well have died. As it was, it didn't, but only just! What was a luscious eight leaved plant had a single not very happy leaf remaining. A little love, not to mention some water, has now helped the plant recover and it has three leaves. Only time will tell if it will actually survive the shock. But I think I learnt more than the obvious from this small event. In the wild, P. jackii grows on a vertical calcareous cliff face (effectively exactly the same environment as the european P. vallisneriifolia). The overhang prevents water falling on the cliff face or plants when it rains. There is no reliable source of water feeding through the rock from above (this is contrary to P. vallisneriifolia where the rock it grows on is a seep, with water running slowly thorough the rock all summer) (maybe in winter too?). So, if there is little or no rain falling on the plant or surrounding rock and if there is minimal water seeping from above, then from where does the drought intolerant P. jackii (it only had to last a bout one week without being watered)obtain a regular supply of water? Well P. jackii is an alpine plant, growing on the third highest peak in Cuba. It is high enough to be above the altitude at which occassional frosts hit (in severe winters), such as in the winter of 1994-95 (though I belive the orientation of the cliffs prevent P. jackii from actually being exposed to frost). So, at this altitude, nights are always quite cold and days are always really warm. Therefore P. jackii almost certainly gets daily, or actually nightly, water from condensation as the night causes a rapid drop in temperature and the humid air is unable to retain its moisture. The only way to be sure is to be up there in the mountain as the night settles in. Oh dear, looks like I'll have to go back and check. What a drag!!! (One question - no doubt Jan is able to answer, or maybe someone else can. According to the rules on naming, should P. jackii now be referred to as P. jackyi? I think that all commemorative plant names relating to latinised people's names may be required to have endings of -ii rewritten as -yi. Am I right? Boy is this naming stuff complex!!!) Regards Paul ################### From: Alastair Robinson <100611.1627@compuserve.com> Date: 02 Jan 96 16:23:13 EST Subject: Re:Pleco Michael, I just thought that I should tell you that in Malaysia, Pleco are often referred to as, surprise-surprise, suckerfish ... but that's Malaysia. Best wishes, Alastair. ################### From: bertozzi.terry@wpo.pi.sa.gov.au Date: Wed, 03 Jan 1996 08:23:17 +0930 Subject: Re: Gnats and Pings Paul, >......vigorous you could also use any hybrid of tender species (e.g. >P. x kewensis, P. x 'Tina', P. x 'Weser'). In america this probably >means any hybrid as I doubt there are many, if any, hybrids of hardy >species available through......... I have seen "tender species" and "hardy species" used before by Pinguicologists but am not quite sure I understand their meaning. Could you please explain. Cheers Terry ################### From: mikel@netcraft-sw.com Date: Tue, 2 Jan 96 16:56:28 PST Subject: RE: Aldrovanda, algae and fish! On Tue, 2 Jan 1996 08:52:12 -0800 Michael.Chamberland wrote: >Can anyone refresh me on the distribution of Aldrovanda, and the kind >of habitat it prefers? > >Re: Plecos, what is their common name? Algae-eaters? (those >catfish-like brown fishes?). Are they usually pretty big? Do they get >in the plant itself and clean it, or do they mostly clean algae off the >tank walls and bottom? > >Michael Chamberland > Pleco is short for Plecostomus. There are all kinds of them, some of which I am sure do not eat plants of any kind, but do a great job scavenging the bottom. Michael ################### From: donb@iglou.com (Don Burden) Date: Wed, 3 Jan 96 00:36 EST Subject: New CPN Here's a synopsis of the new December 1995 CPN that arrived here today: Cover photo: D. montana Back cover: U. novae-zealandiae by Barry Meyers-Rice Articles: "The Savage Garden" by Peter D'Amato. Describes how many CP species may be grown under adverse conditions. "A Visit to Kinabalu Park" by Perry Malouf. Part two of his saga. Photos include N. villosa (could this plant be N. x harryana - a hybrid between N. villosa and N. edwardsiana??) and N. lowii. "Tips I Have Found Useful in Growing Sarracenia Plants" by Joe Cumbee. "Rooting Nepenthes in Water" by Joe Mazrimas. "Letters from the Czech Republic Part IV" by Zdenek Zacek. Literature Review: A new children's book, _Sundew Stranglers_ by Jerome Wexler. An article reviewing of the distribution of Aldrovanda in Europe. _CP of the West: vol II_ by J. Hawkeye Rondeau. A new 82 page book. Other news: The December issue of Horticulture has a feature story on Warren Stoutamire. Here's a web page for an article on the distribution of Nepenthes: http://www.mobot.org/MOBOT/madagasc/biomad13.html. This is part of a longer paper at: http://www.mobot.org/MOBOT/madagasc/biomad1.html. -- Don Burden New Albany, Indiana, USA donb@iglou.com ################### From: Jan@pbc-ths1.pci.chemie.uni-tuebingen.de (Jan Schlauer) Date: Wed, 3 Jan 1996 09:51:22 +0100 Subject: Re: Pinguicula jackii; how to kill a ... Dear Paul, Your little story did nearly let me drop dead from my chair. *DO NOT EVEN DARE TO THINK ABOUT KILLING THIS PLANT!!!* >(One question - no doubt Jan is able to answer, or maybe someone else can. Well, how could I resist to try? >According to the rules on naming, should P. jackii now be referred to as P. >jackyi? I think that all commemorative plant names relating to latinised >people's names may be required to have endings of -ii rewritten as -yi. Only in those cases where the respective people's names are ending with a "y", e.g. a plant named after "Jacky" would get the epithet jackyi. In our _Pinguicula_, the plant was named after "Jack" (AFAIK), so _P.jackii_ is correct. Kind regards Jan ################### From: Jan@pbc-ths1.pci.chemie.uni-tuebingen.de (Jan Schlauer) Date: Wed, 3 Jan 1996 10:24:34 +0100 Subject: Re: Aldrovanda, algae and fish! Dear Michael (C.), >Can anyone refresh me on the distribution of Aldrovanda, and the kind of >habitat it prefers? If you mean natural distribution: widespread but scattered through tropical to temperate Old World (EU, AS, AF, AU). Habitat: aquatic, not too cold winters (only warmer parts in temperate zone), not too dry summers (usually missing in steppe and desert regions). Kind regards Jan ################### From: Ivo Koudela Date: Wed, 3 Jan 96 11:35:02 MEZ Subject: Dr.Guido Braem's book I would like to apologize to Dr.Guido Braem above all and to all who used the list of CP books I created. I relied too much on those who helped me with locating info which I couldn't find out anywhere. Therefore I made a fault - there is the comment 'serious errors' in the description of Dr.Braem's book which is WRONG!!! Delete it please! Once more, my deep apologies to Dr.Braem! At the same time, I would appreciate any comments or help with 'deleting question marks' in the file. Thanks in advance. Best regards, Ivo from the Czech Republic ################### From: "Paul Temple" Date: Wed, 03 Jan 96 13:26:33 +0000 Subject: Yet more Aldrovanda/algae/fish +---------------------------+ TM From: Paul Temple | | | | | | | | Dept: Digital | d | i | g | i | t | a | l | Func: Net Comms | | | | | | | | DTN: 7781-1582 +---------------------------+ Easynet: fangio::temple_p Internet: temple_p@gmt.dec.com Loc/MS: GMT In response to Michael's ... >Re: Plecos, what is their common name? Algae-eaters? (those >catfish-like brown fishes?). Are they usually pretty big? Do they get >in the plant itself and clean it, or do they mostly clean algae off the >tank walls and bottom? Haven't a clue s to common name. Generally, Pleco's are "catfish" like, seen usually on the tank bottom or glass. The mouth is adapted as a sucker. The Fish is flattenned on the base, the head being generally the widest part of the body. As to size, they grow from about 5 cm long (the pygmy species) up to Plecostomus plecostomus size, and I've seen one of them tht was as long as a man's arm! The fish generally scrape algae off any flat surface. I've not detected any damage to my Aldrovanda yet so I can't claim that Pleco's (at least the pygmy species) do any harm to the plant, certainly not ripping it up or eating it deliberately. There is a possibility they willeat the back end of Aldrovanda. This would be good as the tail end of the plant dies off as new growth extends. The dead or dying plant often harbours algae. Some expert can comment on Aldrovanda distribution but I do recall it's actually widespread covering parts of Europe (though not the UK), Africa and Australasia. Regards Paul ################### From: rabbit Date: Wed, 3 Jan 1996 09:23:14 -0600 (CST) Subject: 10 gallon tank of CP Hi, my name is Garth and Ive been reading the group for a while now but this is my first post. I am a student at the university of illinois and have been interested in all kinds of living hobbies (ie. fish, lizards, plants, etc). My first experience with CP was from an ad in the New Yorker magazine. It advertized VFT seeds and it struck me that they would be fun to grow. Well when I got them they were pulverized but I didnt know until they sent out another batch with an appology about the first (I planted the dust that was the first batch wondering at the extreemely small size of the seeds.) My second attempt was another VFT and a cobra lily which I bought at a wonderful science surplus store (american science and surplus.) which occasionally sells those CP which come in 3 in pots and a clear plastic dome (cup). I killed those because I actually wanted to see the plants as a foggy drinking cup on top of a red plastic pot isnt very exciting. Now I am on my second 10 gal. terrarium and Ive learned alot more but I'm still no expert. My plants are doing better than any other attempt, (Im even getting some flowers), but I fear that there is something wrong long term that Ive never had CP long enough to discover. Right now (excuse me for using the common names) I have in my 10 gal. 1 butterwort, 5 VFT, 1 sundew, 2 pitcher plants (not sure what), and something which looks a bit like the other pitcher plants but is red. The questions I have are these: 1) I know that CP need a dormant period of less water and light. Are these plants far to different to be placed under the same dormant conditions? 2) I bought my pitcher plants from peter pauls (both the same kind, both came as roots) and one developed 3 smallish pitchers while the other shot up about 8 inches with what i thought were leaves but actually were very thin long pitchers. Is this right? 3) My plants are sitting in about 2.5 inches of soggy peat moss. Is that enough for the VFT or are their roots in danger of rotting? Thanks for any advice. Sorry I couldnt be more specific about my plant names. - Garth Webb ----------------------------------------------------------------- A limerick packs laughs anatomical Into space that is quite economical. But the good ones I've seen So seldom are clean, And the clean ones so seldom are comical. - "http://www.cen.uiuc.edu/~gw12222/" ---------------------------------------- ################### From: "Jan Stenicka (student)" Date: Wed, 3 Jan 1996 17:04:08 MET-1 Subject: Re: Aldrovanda, algae and fishes Paul, try to use Algil, which will kill algae and Aldrovanda will survive, even she will be healthy. I'm not sure, that Algil'll be in your shop, it's of czech origin , but you can use something like this from aqua-tera /pet/ shop . My friend told me, it works well. Algil is antialgae powder. Jan Stenicka ################### From: "Jeffrey Michael Stein" Date: Wed, 3 Jan 1996 12:42:57 -0500 (EST) Subject: Seed germination. Forwarded message: >From steinjef Tue Jan 2 11:08:38 1996 To: cp@opus.hpl.hp.com (Venus Flytrap) X-Mailer: ELM [version 2.4 PL24] Content-Type: text/plain Content-Length: 537 There is a simpler way to germinate Drosophyllum seed without using GA3. Try soaking the seeds in distilled water for 24 hours or so. Michael Chamberland suggested this to me once. It reduced the length until germination down to 3 -4 weeks. Those of you using 500ppm GA3 are probably wasting money. That is an enormously high concentration. I've had very good results with a 24 hour soak in 1mg/L (1ppm) with D. spathulata. This soak reduced the germination time to two weeks. The control still hasn't germinated after 6 weeks. Jeff ################### From: Keller Date: Wed, 3 Jan 1996 15:13:54 -0500 (EST) Subject: Fungus ?? I have a weblike material that covers the surface, doesn't kill the plants but completely covers some of them. Vanishes when touched, as if it melts. Any suggestions. Thanks. ################### From: Keller Date: Wed, 3 Jan 1996 15:09:18 -0500 (EST) Subject: Vol #3 cp of Australia International Specialized Book Service (1-800-944-6190) are taking backorders for Lowrie's Volume #3. Soft cover only, no set price at this time and delivery date is still unknown. ################### From: "matthias.schmidt@schwaben.de" Date: Wed, 3 Jan 1996 21:35:42 +0000 Subject: New member Hi, my name is Matthias Schmidt and this is my first mail to the CP mailing list. I started growing CP app. 14 years ago together with my brother Oliver. Within the meantime we are mainly growing Nepenthes in fishtanks ( 6 fishtanks with 160 l each ) under fluorescent lights with very good results. Under these conditions do all species which we tried within the last years ( including i.e N. villosa, N. pilosa, N. lowii and many other species ) grow very well. My second interest in CP is in vitro propagation of Nepenthes, which I have started in 1990. This is a very interesting kind of propagation but it needs a lot of work and time to keep all running. ( It is only a hobby, not my profession ! ) That's all for the moment, so I wish a good year 1996 to all people reading this mail. Best regards, Matthias Matthias Schmidt Rossweg 15 71106 Magstadt Germany Tel./Fax.: 07159/42477 e-mail: matthias.schmidt@schwaben.de ################### From: A.Falshaw@irl.cri.nz (Andy Falshaw) Date: Thu, 4 Jan 1996 11:12:47 GMT+1200 Subject: Plants for sale in NZ There's an advert in the January 1996 NZ gardener, in the classifieds at the back, for sarracenias - species and hybrids - from some one in Rotorua. anyone know whether these are likely to be decent plants? Andy ################### From: andreas.wistuba@rhein-neckar.de (Andreas Wistuba) Date: Wed, 03 Jan 1996 22:29:31 GMT Subject: Re: New member On Wed, 3 Jan 1996 13:07:33 -0800, you wrote: >Hi, my name is Matthias Schmidt and this is my first mail to the CP >mailing list. Hello Matthias, hello Oliver, welcome:-) Andreas Andreas Wistuba; Mudauer Ring 227; 68259 Mannheim; Germany Phone: +49-621-705471 / +49-621-7152027 Fax: +49-621-7152028 E-Mail: andreas.wistuba@rhein-neckar.de WWW: http://www.rhein-neckar.de/~carnivor/index.html ################### From: Clarke Brunt Date: Wed, 3 Jan 1996 00:05:45 +0000 Subject: Re: Gnats and Pings On 2 Jan 96 at 13:59, bertozzi.terry@wpo.pi.sa.gov. wrote: > I have seen "tender species" and "hardy species" used before by > Pinguicologists but am not quite sure I understand their meaning. I know that the other day, I questioned whether someone meant 'difficult to kill' by 'hardy', but the common usage would just be one of cold-resistance. Probably people won't agree on a definite dividing line, but for the most part 'hardy' means 'tolerates freezing', while 'tender' means that temperatures must remain above freezing (sometimes quite a lot above!). Concerning the Pings that I grow, grandiflora, vulgaris and lusitanica are hardy. -- Clarke Brunt (clarke@brunt.demon.co.uk) ################### From: CBelan9630@aol.com Date: Wed, 3 Jan 1996 20:20:57 -0500 Subject: Nepenthes soils To all those expert growers of Nepenthes, How important is it to maintain the same or similar soil conditions for cultivated Nepenthes? In other words, is it really necessary to grow plants that grow in ultra basic in the wild in the same soils? What symptoms would a plant display if it is grown in the wrong types of soils? What soil does N. macfarlanei grow in? If you haven't guessed yet I am having trouble with it. It is a seedling and is a yellowish green and growing extremely slowly. I can't place my finger on what is wrong with it (or maybe it is just like that). Comments would be apprecieated. Christoph ################### From: Perry Malouf Date: Wed, 3 Jan 1996 20:42:42 -0500 Subject: N. x harryana? In his description of the contents of the latest CPN, Don Burden wrote about my article: > "A Visit to Kinabalu Park" by Perry Malouf. Part two of his saga. > Photos include N. villosa (could this plant be N. x harryana - > a hybrid between N. villosa and N. edwardsiana??) and N. lowii. Ooohh, a wiseguy eh? N. x harryana indeed! The back cover of the previous CPN clearly shows my Thai friend standing next to a sign which reads "Nepenthes Villosa Areas". Besides, my guide TOLD me it was N. villosa. So there. :-) Okay, we put the jokes aside. Neither the sign nor the most well-intentioned guide constitute a guarantee. After all, I took the picture. I do believe, however, that the photo shows a N. villosa pitcher and not one of N. x harryana. The shape of the pitcher does not seem to have any N. edwardsiana components. N. edwardsiana pitchers are substantially larger (esp. taller) and more tubular in shape, with a slight "waist" (narrowing) about 1/3 of the way from the bottom before expanding again. Perhaps the pitcher lid sitting on top of a "pedestal-continuation" of the peristome aroused suspicion? The photograph of N. edwardsiana I took indeed shows such a pedestal on pitchers of that species. I photographed several N. villosa plants over a fairly large area, and all the pitchers had the toothed pedestal at the back of the peristome. And, N. edwardsiana was nowhere to be found in that vicinity (I understand that some plants may have been lurking in the woods at a lower elevation, quite a distance away). All the pitchers of the N. villosas had the same general form as the one shown in the recent CPN, and I find it hard to believe that all those plants were really N. harryana. As a final bit of evidence, I also photographed N. x kinabaluensis which is N. villosa x N. rajah. This hybrid also had a toothed pedestal at the back of the peristome, though it was not as pronounced as in N. villosa. The plant clearly showed components of the parents, and it made sense that the peristome would have been "leveled out" somewhat by the N. rajah influence. I welcome opinions from others who have experience with N. villosa. (I imagine that international subscribers to CPN have yet to receive the most recent issue.) Perry Malouf ################### From: dave evans Date: Wed, 03 Jan 96 21:10 EST Subject: Re: D. capensis attacked by ravenous FUNGUS! > I got all > worried that I had over watered them, polluted the water, etc. Until > seven hours later when I found white fuzz coming from the base of the > leaves (the leaves were well developed until the FUNGUS attacked). I > immediateley transplanted my plants to soil I had put in the oven at > 200 degrees for two hours. I also made sure that everything about > this new environment was sterile.NOW what should I do to keep this > Cape Sundew alive? What should I do to keep this FUNGUS from > spreading to my other CPs? How should I prevent this from happening > again? If I should kill this fungus with a fungicide: Which brand or > kind is best? How much should I put on this cape sundew? Will the > fungicide that works with the D.capensis also work with the > butterworts if they get this fungus? Is this terrible little fungus > as scary as it seems? Welcome Bret, Could this fungus be mealey bugs instead? They always have fungus growing on them and so could be mistaken as just fungus. What was the condition of the root(s) on the D.capensis? Are they still viable? If so you can make new plantlets from them. I would think the butterworts would fall victim to a fungus before a strong growing like D.cap. Dave Evans ################### From: bb626@scn.org (SCN User) Date: Wed, 3 Jan 1996 19:23:49 -0800 Subject: Re: Nepenthes soils Christoph, The varieties of Nepenthes sanguinea,macfarlandii and gracillima and the natural hybrids of the three seem to do well in a wide range of mixes. N. macfarlandii is no different in its soil conditions.One plant with foot long pitchers growing ina basic mix of orchid bark,corse peak and sponge rock can be sitting right next to a plant that is growing in straight corse vermiculite. Not all plants sprouted from seed grow the same. One will grow at a good pace and another from the same seed lot sits there for years. I have seen alot of different mixes from other grower, some with very dense mediums but the same plant given a chance in something that was a bit more airy and the enviroment was also improved the plant expanded in sized in a very short time. It could be the quality of the seedling from its origin that needs improving. -- Tom Kahl/Nepenthes Club ################### From: Pekka Ala-Siuru Date: Thu, 4 Jan 1996 10:38:51 +0200 (EET) Subject: This is to Paul Temple I am sorry to send this to the entire list but Paul's reply address don't work. ..here is the mail I tried to send you paul: To: Paul Temple Hi Paul, I noticed that my recent mails have not gone thru..to you address. Hope you have now working reply address :) Book? What is the best mix for Rhypsalis?, I have got one cutting and try to get it rooted. ..Pekka ______________________________________________________ ______________________________________________________ Pekka Ala-Siuru Senior Analyst, Embedded Knowledge-Based Systems VTT Electronics, P.O.Box 1100, FIN-90571, Oulu,Finland Tel. +358 81 551 2461, Telefax +358 81 551 2320 http://www.ele.vtt.fi/ ################### From: Jan@pbc-ths1.pci.chemie.uni-tuebingen.de (Jan Schlauer) Date: Thu, 4 Jan 1996 11:04:42 +0100 Subject: Re: New member >>Hi, my name is Matthias Schmidt and this is my first mail to the CP >>mailing list. (...) Hello Matthias (whose good friends call him the walking fan! ;-)), Welcome aboard! Jan (S. from T.) ################### From: Gordon Wells (Tel "(343)-401-6659") Date: Thu, 4 Jan 1996 11:51:37 UTC+0100 Subject: P. Weser There's been some talk of the hybrid P. Weser on the list recently. Does anyone happen to know what its parents are ? This is one of the most common hybrids I've seen available in Barcelona (imported from Holland), but I can't seem to find out what it is - it's not even in the otherwise invincible CP database. Thanks, Gordon Wells Instituto de Cibernetica Diagonal 647, planta 2 Barcelona 08028 SPAIN ################### From: "Michael Hasemann" Date: Thu, 4 Jan 1996 13:04:43 +0200 (EET) Subject: Re: New member > > >>Hi, my name is Matthias Schmidt and this is my first mail to the CP > >>mailing list. > (...) > > Hello Matthias (whose good friends call him the walking fan! ;-)), > > Welcome aboard! > > Jan (S. from T.) > > > Hi Matthias, welcome to the party and remember to greet any newcomer with at least two bandwidth wasting lines of non CP related smalltalk. :-) ..Michael -- Michael Hasemann | Technical Research Centre of Finland - Automation | Kaitovayla 1, P.O. Box 13023, 90571 Oulu, Finland jmh@tko.vtt.fi | Fax: +358 81 5512320 Tel: +358 81 5512239 ################### From: Jan@pbc-ths1.pci.chemie.uni-tuebingen.de (Jan Schlauer) Date: Thu, 4 Jan 1996 13:28:27 +0100 Subject: Re: P. Weser Dear Gordon, >There's been some talk of the hybrid P. Weser on the >list recently. Does anyone happen to know what its >parents are ? This is one of the most common hybrids >I've seen available in Barcelona (imported from Holland), >but I can't seem to find out what it is - it's not even >in the otherwise invincible CP database. The CPDB may not be invincible but it definitely includes what you are looking for: N: [Pinguicula * ' Weser ' {Hort.Slack}] P: Insect-Eat.Pl. & How To Grow Them:113 (1986) S: =[[Pinguicula moranensis {H.B.K.}] * [Pinguicula ehlersiae {Speta & Fuchs}]] B: WEINER Kind regards Jan ################### From: L235@aol.com Date: Thu, 4 Jan 1996 09:18:45 -0500 Subject: Re: Suggestions For A Novice In replying to Sara Gardner's request for good cp varieties to help with her orchid fungus gnat problem, Clark Brunt wrote >The butterworts (Pinguicula) aren't usually very good at >catching anything. Pinguicula moranensis (and varieties) >makes an attractive flowering plant (mine flowers almost >all year), and catches a few small flying insects. I hate to contradict, but in my (admittedly humble) experience, My P. moranensis has been, by far, the single largest consumer of fungus gnats in my basement greenhouse environment, when compared with D. capensis, D. binata, D. adelae, D. aliciae, and D. intermedia x brevifolia. (on the order of 10 catches for the ping to 1 for any of the Droserae) Jay Lechtman L235@aol.com ################### From: Adrian Arnold Date: Wed, 03 Jan 1996 00:08:02 Subject: Re: CP digest 575: suggestions for a novice Someone suggested that some >carn. plants would help keep the fungus gnat pop- >ulation down (someone else took exception to that >idea) but the more I thought about it the more I >thought it would be fun and interesting to have a >few CP's around. Can anyone suggest four or so >which might do well in a warm greenhouse (low temp >in the 50's, I hope) and where I might obtain >them? > >Thanks for your suggestions. > >Sara in Grants Pass, OR > I find that Pinguicula Moranensis (Caudata or similar, and most of the other P's)work very well indeed at keeping down those pesky little fungus flies. I suggest you position one in the centre of each group of plants you are having problems with and you will get a quite rapid reduction in fly population. They also seem to be able to catch whitefly in reasonable numbers as well. Regards, Adrian Arnold. arnold@bigb.win-uk.net ################### From: Martin.Zevenbergen@ALGEM.PT.WAU.NL (martin zevenbergen) Date: Thu, 04 Jan 1996 15:34:26 +0100 (CET) Subject: seed germination Yesterday, Jeff wrote: >There is a simpler way to germinate Drosophyllum seed without using GA3. Try >soaking the seeds in distilled water for 24 hours or so. Michael Chamberland >suggested this to me once. It reduced the length until germination down to 3 >-4 >weeks. Sounds interesting and is indeed a cheaper method. >Those of you using 500ppm GA3 are probably wasting money. That is an >enormously >high concentration. I've had very good results with a 24 hour soak in 1mg/L >(1ppm) with D. spathulata. This soak reduced the germination time to two >weeks. The control still hasn't germinated after 6 weeks. Yes, maybe, but on the other side I only use a few ml of GA3 solution per seed batch, and when I take the price of GA3 into account, the solution (500 ppm) is about 5 dutch cents (about 3 $cents) per ml. When you know that Allen Lowrie's seeds are 3 Austr. $ per seed batch, the price of the GA3 isn't that expensive. Furthermore, I have some seed from Allen that refuses to germinate even with this high GA3 concentration and some others of which only a few germinate. So I'm not sure if you will succeed with a lower concentration. Martin Zevenbergen Dept. of Plant taxonomy Agricultural University P.O. box 8010 6700 ED Wageningen The Netherlands martin.zevenbergen@algem.pt.wau.nl ------------------------------ End of CP Digest 579 ******************** ################### From: Oliver T Massey CFS Date: Thu, 4 Jan 1996 09:49:07 -0500 (EST) Subject: Re: Suggestions For A Novice > >The butterworts (Pinguicula) aren't usually very good at > >catching anything. Pinguicula moranensis (and varieties) > >makes an attractive flowering plant (mine flowers almost > >all year), and catches a few small flying insects. > > I hate to contradict, but in my (admittedly humble) experience, My P. > moranensis has been, by far, the single largest consumer of fungus gnats in > my basement greenhouse environment, when compared with D. capensis, D. > binata, D. adelae, D. aliciae, and D. intermedia x brevifolia. (on the order > of 10 catches for the ping to 1 for any of the Droserae) > Jay Lechtman > L235@aol.com Interesting, in my backyard D. filiformis is by far the best- way outstripping the above mentioned Drosera or native Pings. I don't have P. moranensis :( for comparison. Of course, these are all kinds of gnats and small flying stuff, not just the springtails I find on my plants inside. Tom in Fl ################### From: Mestrado Gestao Recursos Biologicos Date: Thu, 4 Jan 1996 19:27:16 +0100 (MET) Subject: SUBSCRIBE ################### From: Alastair Robinson <100611.1627@compuserve.com> Date: 04 Jan 96 15:07:02 EST Subject: Re: CP digest 580 Christoph, in the wild the three Malaysian mountain species, Nn. gracillima, sanguinea and macfarlaneii, so I have observed, grow in several different types of soils and habitats - from pure, rich, heavy peat to sandy soils and especially on bare rock; all three tolerate many types of soil as a result of the great variation in habitat. Of these three, N.sanguinea is, by far, the most tolerant in terms of temperature and mistreatment, followed by N.gracillima which is easy as well, followed by N. macfarlaneii - it is an easy species, but you will not find many that are at all tolerant of temperatures higher than 23/24 degrees celsius - they display their dislike to adverse temperatures by, in my experience, turning yellow and slowing in growth, to eventually pass away. Due to variation in peninsular Malaysia's relief features, some N.macfarlaneii stands, as with the other two, have adapted to tolerate lower, and thus warmer habitats. The Fraser's Hill specimens are a good example; N.macfarlaneii is extremely rare there, because it is not high enough to sport the ideal temperatures, but the plants from there are a little more tolerant of higher temperatures than are those from Gunung Berincang and Ulu Kali, the two higher peaks in the peninsular part of the country. This could be said for N.sanguinea as well - N.gracillima does not occur in the locality, as far as I am aware. I would also like to support Perry's claim of the N.villosa pitcher seen in the journal, which has reached England. It is N.villosa as far as I can see - upper pitchers aren't uncommon, contrary to what several books seemed to suggest ( unknown etc.). - and the pitchers on some plants I saw, over 3 metres ( the plants, I mean) high, had pitchers of just the kind he has photographed. However, N.*harryana does occur on the trail; below mempening, at a site that guides claim N.edwardsiana grows, with some huge N.*kinabaluensis. These plants are unmistakeably not villosas, but neither are they the tall, cylindrical pitchers of the Kinabalu form of N.edwardsiana - they are intermediate in shape between N.villosa and the former, just like those in Kurata's book, and do not appear to be similar to those N.edwardsiana's from Trus madi ( the 'squat' version). I hope I have been helpful. Best wishes, Alastair. ################### From: Andrew Marshall Date: Thu, 4 Jan 1996 12:39:25 -0800 (PST) Subject: Re: CP digest 580 Hi folks, To add my two cents woth in the discusion re. the best plants for fungus gnat control I have to say that it is also my experiance that the Mexican Pinguicula are by far the best at capturing the adult gnats that are in my greenhouse. P. moranensis, P. agnata and the hybrid P. agnata x P. gypsicola are the three best and are often times covered with gnats. Usually in the early Autumn when the ambient humidity increases. By now there are not enough left to notice except for the occasional gnat that rises off of a plant pot. I do not notice any being caught by the numerous species of Drosera I have in there. To add also, I use the various fork-leaved Drosera outside as companion plants among the Sarracenia. The purpose to control the adult crane flies whose larvae are very destructive to roots and rhyzomes. They are very good at it. I used to use Drosophyllum for this but have lost the plants I had and damping off has taken the seedlings I had. I know of no plant that controls the larval stages of either of these pests but if the adult populations are kept to a minimum then damage is rarely a problem. If all else fails then the Gardens Alive company sells "gnatrol", a form of bt especially formulated for fungus gnats that REALLY works if the directions are followed. I don't have an address on hand for them at the moment but if I can find it I will post it. It is the only organic larvacide I know of for these pests. Meanwhile, I hope everybodies holidays were happy and that everybody has a happy and prosperous new year. Good Growing Andrew ################### From: dave evans Date: Thu, 04 Jan 96 16:40 EST Subject: Re: introduction > > > Hi! My name is George. I became interested in cp through a science > class in high school (many years ago). Currently I am growing, venus > fly traps, sundews, cephalotus follicularis, sarracenias, nepenthes, > and darlingtonia californica. I am interested in any helpful hints on > dormancy and any growing tips. Hello George, VFT, temperate Drosera (most sundews are Drosera and most are *not* temperate), Sarracenia, and Darlingtonia all have just about the same dormancy needs. As Kevin Snively pointed out these plants can be frozen as long as they are ready for dormancy *and* are insulated from freeze drying air. Snow is really the best for this but a mulch of leaves will work very good too. Nepenthes don't really have dormancy at all and grow year round. They tend too flower in the spring, if large enough. Cephalotus likes to stay warm but can rot easily during the winter so it should be kept drier (but not dry!) and a light application of Maneb fungicide will help. Dave Evans ################### From: CHRYCL@aol.com Date: Thu, 4 Jan 1996 19:18:44 -0500 Subject: Tissue Culture Dear Friends, First of all my name is Chris Clark and I recently became a member of the group. I hope to learn many things from the group. I am looking to start propigating my plants by means of tissue culture and I was wondering if anyone out there has any tips they could give me. Also, if you could give me a list of suppliers of the supplies needed and a lis of people who sell plants from tissue culture. Thank-you and good growing! Chris Clark CHRYCL@aol.com ################### From: CMDodd@aol.com Date: Thu, 4 Jan 1996 19:56:11 -0500 Subject: Re: soils and Nepenthes The question of media for Nepenthes is a recurring question and not easily answered. It may depend on temperature, water quality, greenhouse vs. terrarium culture, etc. In my area (Central Florida) most species are grown in a mix of equal parts fine grain fir bark/charcoal/tree fern fiber. This applies to highland species (which are generally grown in baskets) and lowland (plastic pots) alike. I personally do not grow any Nepenthes in sphagnum because in my climate it rots very quickly and the roots will soon be in an anaerobic muck which may kill the plant. This mix usually is good for about 2 years and then must be changed. As this is a very well drained and porous mix, it must be pre-soaked at least 24 hours before use. It will also mean regular watering in warm weather. Species that respond well to this are quite varied in habitat in the field: N. alata, ampullaria, bicacarata, tentaculata, mirabilis, veitchii, macfarlanei, maxima, lowii, truncata and many others. The main difficulty comes in trying to grow the species restricted to ultra-basic soils. This includes N. rajah, burbidgea, macro-vulgaris, and also stenophylla (N. fallax?) and villosa (although they are not confined to these soils). So far in cultivation here, ultra basic species have responded to two types of media. One is 90% 3mm silica-gel mixed with 10% of the standard mix. This is NOT the silica gel that dissolves in water, or the type with indicator crystals in it. It is white to clear and very hard. It must be hydrated in a high humidity envoronment for several days before use, for if immersed directly in water it will fracture to dust. The other medium is 90% high-fired clay used in aquarium filtration and 10% standard mix. One brand of this is called Biopur. It must be crushed as it comes in little cylindars and roots might get restricted in the holes. BOTH of these media are EXPENSIVE, but the silica gel can be bought in bulk, the other (so far) cannot. This is not a problem if you have only a few of the ultra basic forms, most of which are still fairly uncommon. Since N. rajah is now in tissue culture a series of media should be experimented with to determine the optimum soils. Lastly there is the little understood problem of N. northiana which has not really responded to any soil with any great vigor. Neither the above mentioned soils nor the addition of limestone (marble) has produced growth consistant of plants in the field. N. sumatrana is another plant that survives but is not terribly happy about cultivation. Other medias worth experimenting with include rock wools and aerolite. Media to avoid: redwood fiber, cork, peat (to dense and acid), lava rock, turface. Coupled with media should be high quality water (R.O. or similar) which is absolutely necessary for the ultra basic species. Again this is what works for me in my area of the world, and I am still very much learning about Nepenthes. Cliff ################### From: dave evans Date: Thu, 04 Jan 96 19:53 EST Subject: Re: Re: CP: suggestions for a novice > The butterworts (Pinguicula) aren't usually very good at > catching anything. Pinguicula moranensis (and varieties) > makes an attractive flowering plant (mine flowers almost > all year), and catches a few small flying insects. > Clarke Brunt (clarke@brunt.demon.co.uk) ???? I had lots of fungus gnats in with my Nepenthes so I placed two small P. (+/-) moranenis in the 55 gal. terrarium and the plants become covered with them! The Pings grew fast => and soon there were no more gnat at all :). They don't catch anything larger than fungus gnats though, even fruit flies are too big and tend to rot before the plant eats them. Dave Evans ################### From: writserv@mi.net Date: Thu, 4 Jan 1996 21:11:22 -0400 Subject: Re: CP digest 580 Hi Andrew: >Hi folks, > To add my two cents woth in the discusion re. the best plants for >fungus gnat control I have to say that it is also my experiance that the >Mexican Pinguicula (snip) >I do not notice any being caught by the >numerous species of Drosera I have in there. Tut! A large D. capensis set amongst the breeding grounds of of the Fungus Gnat _in spring, in this country_ can blacken right up with horney little fungus gnats. They tend to crawl along anything above the soil and flip their wings to scatter their pheremones. The glue of life. Chomp. :} Rand Nicholson (writserv@mi.net) Canada ################### From: Gordon Wells (Tel "(343)-401-6659") Date: Fri, 5 Jan 1996 11:36:51 UTC+0100 Subject: P. Weser Hi Jan, > The CPDB may not be invincible but it definitely includes > what you are looking for: > N: [Pinguicula * ' Weser ' {Hort.Slack}] > P: Insect-Eat.Pl. & How To Grow Them:113 (1986) > S: =[[Pinguicula moranensis {H.B.K.}] * [Pinguicula ehlersiae {Speta & > Fuchs}]] B: WEINER Thanks. My mistake was forgetting to push the "show all matching entries" button when I searched the database. I can't seem to ever remember this... Regards, Gordon Wells Instituto de Cibernetica Diagonal 647, planta 2 Barcelona 08028 SPAIN ################### From: DDembicki@aol.com Date: Fri, 5 Jan 1996 12:22:02 -0500 Subject: Re: Vol #3 cp of Australia For those of you out of the USA, International Specialized Book Service's direct dial is 503-287-3093 in Portland Oregon and Email is ORDERS@ISBS.COM. They have an extensive catalog of books on Flora and Fauna and a few books on CPs too. Give Debra a call for more details. Dan Dembicki In a message dated 96-01-03 17:57:34 EST, you write: >Subj: Vol #3 cp of Australia >Date: 96-01-03 17:57:34 EST >From: pkeller@suffolk.lib.ny.us (Keller) >Sender: cp@opus.hpl.hp.com >Reply-to: cp@opus.hpl.hp.com >To: cp@opus.hpl.hp.com (Multiple recipients of list) > > >International Specialized Book Service (1-800-944-6190) are taking >backorders for Lowrie's Volume #3. Soft cover only, no set price at this >time and delivery date is still unknown ################### From: Clarke Brunt Date: Thu, 4 Jan 1996 20:36:34 +0000 Subject: Re: 10 gallon tank of CP On 3 Jan 96 at 7:35, rabbit wrote: > Right now (excuse me for using the common names) I have in my 10 > gal. 1 butterwort, 5 VFT, 1 sundew, 2 pitcher plants (not sure what), and > something which looks a bit like the other pitcher plants but is red. > The questions I have are these: > 1) I know that CP need a dormant period of less water and light. > Are these plants far to different to be placed under the same dormant > conditions? Your plants sound fairly similar (though perhaps depends what species the butterwort and sundews are). Any cool temperature above freezing would probably do. In my climate in the UK, I don't do anything special - natural Winter in a slightly heated greenhouse seems about right. I should say that the plants don't really need to be in an enclosure as long as the humidity isn't too low. Mine just stand with their pots in water trays, > 2) I bought my pitcher plants from peter pauls (both the same > kind, both came as roots) and one developed 3 smallish pitchers while the > other shot up about 8 inches with what i thought were leaves but actually > were very thin long pitchers. Is this right? The pitches *are* the leaves, though some Sarracenia occasionally produce one or two non-pitcher flat leaves. > 3) My plants are sitting in about 2.5 inches of soggy peat > moss. Is that enough for the VFT or are their roots in danger of rotting? Sounds like it should be deeper - both the VFT and the Sarrs have quite large root systems. My biggest Sarracenia is in a 10 inch/25 cm (both wide and deep) pot. Rot shouldn't really be a worry. -- Clarke Brunt (clarke@brunt.demon.co.uk) ################### From: Clarke Brunt Date: Thu, 4 Jan 1996 20:26:15 +0000 Subject: Re: Fungus ?? On 3 Jan 96 at 12:16, Keller wrote: > I have a weblike material that covers the surface, doesn't kill the > plants but completely covers some of them. Vanishes when touched, as if > it melts. Any suggestions. Yes - I get that as well (though only on the soil - I haven't had it cover plants!), especially on newly potted plants, before algae, mosses, etc. get established. After the green algae gets going, I sometimes see some other organism which spreads from a single point and kills the algae (someone once told me that the 'killer' stuff was a 'slime mould'). -- Clarke Brunt (clarke@brunt.demon.co.uk) ################### From: "Michael.Chamberland" <23274MJC@MSU.EDU> Date: Fri, 05 Jan 96 15:49 EST Subject: Re: Vol #3 cp in Australia > For those of you out of the USA, International Specialized Book Service's > direct dial is 503-287-3093 in Portland Oregon and Email is ORDERS@ISBS.COM. > They have an extensive catalog of books on Flora and Fauna and a few books > on CPs too. Give Debra a call for more details. > > Dan Dembicki > > In a message dated 96-01-03 17:57:34 EST, you write: > > >International Specialized Book Service (1-800-944-6190) are taking > >backorders for Lowrie's Volume #3. Soft cover only, no set price at this > >time and delivery date is still unknown Help me figure this out. Has Lowrie's CP of Australia vol. 3 REALLY now been published? Have any of you come into physical contact with this entity? (Close Encounters of the Vol. 3 Kind!!! :-) Michael ################### From: John M Ford Date: Fri, 5 Jan 1996 16:31:04 -0500 (EST) Subject: Re: Vol #3 cp in Australia Concerning Michael's question about Lowrie's Vol 3 - when I talked to ISBS this afternoon (960105) I was told that they do not have it in stock, but are expecting it soon since it is scheduled to be released this winter. The Natural History Book Service has had it in their listings for about two months or so, but I figured I'd wait and find a source in the US (shipping is a tad expensive from the UK when you are impatient). The person with whom I spoke was quite pleasant seemed to be very excited when I told her how I found out about them. Good luck and good growin, John jford@runet.edu ################### From: lardyg7@cti.ecp.fr (Gilles LARDY) Date: Sat, 6 Jan 1996 01:42:19 +0100 Subject: Need information about Genlisea... Hi everybody, First I hope you have had a great Christmas ! Although Barry's articles on Genlisea species are very interesting, I would like to have further informations on this genus. In his book, Slack mentions that the trap may reach the length of 15 cm, does anybody know which species are concerned by this. I have heard that there were two kinds of Genlisea, the terrestrial and the aquatic ones. Which one of the species are aquatic ; does anybody grow them at the moment, or has grown them in the past ? Any other information on the genus will be wellcome. Thank you for your help... Gilles ***************************** Gilles LARDY E_mail : lardyg7@cti.ecp.fr ################### From: jnuyen@voyager.net (John Nuyen) Date: Fri, 5 Jan 1996 19:36:06 -0500 Subject: CP pests Many years ago, I had a large terrarium which contained several Venus Fly Traps, pitcher plants, butterworts and sundews. Over the years, I had tried to grow the plants, but for some reason and infestation of what I believe to be white flys would destroy them. I would like to get back into growing these CP's but I wonder if it will be a failure as it was in the past. Is there any way to kill these flys before they kill the plants? Also, where is a good place to purchase new CP specimens? Thanks, John ################### From: lightAlan Bickell Date: Fri, 5 Jan 1996 23:02:41 -0500 Subject: new member Hi to all on the list! My name is Al Bickell from the land of ice, snow and 40 below -Canada. I have been reading quietly in the background for about a month now and just decided to test the depth of the water by jumping in with both feet. I have a small greenhouse in which I grow tropical orchids (genus paphiopedilum complete plus other species) and a few CPs. Mostly the standard things -VFT, Pings, and some sundews. A few Nepenthes species lurk in the corners(burbidgii,rhienwardtia,alata,albo-marginata) and these are the primary reason for writing. My real hobby is tissue culture and in vitro seed propogation of rare species. I have been doing this with orchids for about twenty years now. The greenhouse serves as a sort of seed generator and we have a lab in the basement where I work (hobby). Phalaenopsis node culture is virtually identical to node culture for Nepenthes and this has been very sucessful. I have gotten lots of good data on media and hormone concentrations for Nepenthes from the cp.list. Last summer we successfully propogated the Nepenthes by node culture in pots but would like to try generating some callus cultures and in vitro stem props. Would appreciate any hints from those who have had success with this proceedure, especially in the area of explant sterilization. Other important questions are, -what length of time in the sterilizing solution for seed or nodes and -what conc of sodium hypochlorite is most effective as a sterilant for both? Looking forward to hearing from you. Al Bickell ################### From: Andrew Marshall Date: Fri, 5 Jan 1996 21:22:13 -0800 (PST) Subject: Re: CP digest 581 Hello folks, Perhaps in this department I have lazy Drosera. I will tell you what I use the D. capensis and others for in the greenhouse and that is as decoys for the aphids. I have found that in the winter the apdids prefer the Drosera to the Nepenthes. I merely have to go around and spray oil/soap on them or if they are to much of a pain, I wait for a frost and throw the little buggers outside. It does sometimes kill the Drosera but as long as I have others of the same I don't mind. Sounds as cruel as it is but I would rather they were outside then in on the Nepenthes. Good Growing Andrew ################### From: steiger@iae.unibe.ch (Juerg Steiger) Date: Sat, 6 Jan 1996 17:44:34 +0000 Subject: Brazilian in Europe Hi to all!!! It's me, Fernando Rivadavia, writing from Juerg Steiger's office in Bern! Long time no see, happy '96 to eveyone!! I arrived here yesterday afternoon and will be leaving tomorrow morning. Juerg has been giving me a Pinguicula intensive course which I'll never forget! He's shown me tons of fantastic pictures of the northen temperate Pings and their habitats. I'm having the opportunity to clear up all and any doubts I've ever had about this group of CP's. Only now I'm sadder than ever that I can't cultivate them in Brazil! Today Juerg took me to see some lowland sites of P.alpina right outside Bern. They were obviously dormant, but it was interesting to see these relic habitats where the plants are found at about half the altitude that they are normally found in. The 1st meeting of the Italian CP'ers was fantastic! I think my previous message didn't reach you Alessandro (it didn't reach Juerg), but I just wanted to thank you, Furio, Fiorello, and everyone else for the great time I had. I'm glad I finally gave all you Italians a reason to get together and meet each other. My next stop is Rouen in France, where I'll be arriving on Sunday early in the afternoon. I'm going to meet a longtime correspondent of mine, Pierre Sibille. He told me there might even be a small meeting of the local CP'ers. If any of you are connected, tell Pierre I'll be arriving in Paris at around 11:30 and will catch the first train to Rouen (which I think is at 13:00). I'll only be able to stay with Pierre for about one day, then I have to go to Paris to see Drosera TYPE herbarium. I should be in England around Thursday (Hi Joe, Loyd, and everyone else). I'll be seeing Drosera TYPE specimens at Kew and then there'll be the meeting of the British CP'ers at Reading on Saturday. Don't miss out! Don't worry, you won't get bored with too many CPs, I've got lots of slides of waterfalls, habitats, views, orchids, other plants, animals, etc. I'll be leaving England probably on Sunday or Monday for GErmany, where I will first visit Thomas Carow. The German part of the trip is not too well sorted out yet, I just know I the meeting will be on the 20th in Mannheim or Heidelberg. I'll keep you Germans informed along the way. I'll write from Joe Mullins' in England. OK? Well, that's it everyone! 'Till next time!! Best Wishes, Fernando Rivadavia ___________________________________________________ Dr. Juerg Steiger, Institut fuer Aus-, Weiter- und Fortbildung IAWF University of Bern, Inselspital 37a, CH-3010 Bern, Switzerland Office: +41 (0)31 632 98 87, Home: +41 (0)31 972 19 79 Fax: +41 (0)31 632 98 71, E-mail: steiger@iae.unibe.ch Web: http://www.iawf.unibe.ch/index.htp ################### From: CBelan9630@aol.com Date: Sat, 6 Jan 1996 11:48:19 -0500 Subject: N. x harryana I would have to agree with Perry. The plant pictured is clearly N. villosa, looks to me like an upper pitcher. N. x harryana has a more elongated, tubular pitcher and retains much of the color N. edwardsiana. Look for a picture of it soon to come on my home page. Just my 2c. ################### From: Gregory Drasher Date: Sat, 6 Jan 1996 15:29:31 -0500 (EST) Subject: Introduction Greetings! As a new subscriber to the CP list, I wanted to take the opportunity to introduce myself. My name is Greg, and I'm currently a graduate student studying at the University of Louisville in Kentucky, USA. Several years ago, I became interested in CPs and began a small collection I eventually gave them to friends when I moved. Now that my graduate studies have become somewhat manageable, I want to begin a hobby. When I think back, I remember with great fondness my CPs (sarracenias, cephalotus, and VFT). I just began exploring the net, and I plan to follow up on requesting membership in societies. If anyone has any advice they would like to offer to this relatively starving graduate student re: keeping costs down, etc., please email me at grdras01@homer.louisville.edu Anything that needs to come snail mail can be sent to Greg Drasher 2151 Goldsmith Lane #21 Louisville, KY 40218 USA I'm looking forward to hearing from anyone. My current plans are to collect a wide sampling of CPs. Thanks to all, Greg ################### From: lardyg7@cti.ecp.fr (Gilles LARDY) Date: Sun, 7 Jan 1996 01:01:28 +0100 Subject: Need information about Genlisea... Hi everybody, I do not know what happened, but I stopped receiving messages from the 2nd of january, so now I come back to the listserv. First I hope you have had a great Christmas ! Although Barry's articles on Genlisea species are very interesting, I would like to have further informations on this genus. In his book, Slack mentions that the trap may reach the length of 15 cm, does anybody know which species are concerned by this. I have heard that there were two kinds of Genlisea, the terrestrial and the aquatic ones. Which one of the species are aquatic ; does anybody grow them at the moment, or has grown them in the past ? Any other information on the genus will be wellcome. Thank you for your help... Gilles ***************************** Gilles LARDY E_mail : lardyg7@cti.ecp.fr ################### From: bb626@scn.org (SCN User) Date: Sat, 6 Jan 1996 22:15:29 -0800 Subject: Re: Need information about Genlisea... Gilles, The genlesae that I grow here tend toward semi-aquatic to terrestrial like utrics.Some I have had for years in the same one liter clear plastic jar and they have filled it up with little care. As long as they were kept wet and warm 25C and not in too much light they were fine. Truly, -- Tom Kahl/Nepenthes Club ################### From: Tomas Polivka Date: Sun, 7 Jan 1996 02:29:28 -0800 Subject: Sumatra Nepenthes Dear CPers, One of my friend is going to go to Sumatra in March to find some Nepenthes. He asked me for a question to cp conference about some localities of Nepenthes in Sumatra. So please if you can recommend him some of them, please contact me via e-mail. Thanks in advance. Tomas Polivka Dept. of Chemical Physics Charles University Prague ################### From: Jan@pbc-ths1.pci.chemie.uni-tuebingen.de (Jan Schlauer) Date: Sun, 7 Jan 1996 13:48:41 +0100 Subject: Re: Brazilian in Europe Hi Fernando & al. > I'll be leaving England probably on Sunday or Monday for GErmany, >where I will first visit Thomas Carow. The German part of the trip is not >too well sorted out yet Please sort it out as soon as possible so we can arrange something! > I just know I the meeting will be on the 20th in >Mannheim or Heidelberg. The meeting will definitely be in Heidelberg. All those interested are invited to come. We will meet at Peter Harbarth's home in Dossenheim. > I'll keep you Germans informed along the way. TNX. >I'll write from Joe Mullins' in England. OK? Joe, could you please inform Fernando (about the German session)? Thanks. Kind regards Jan ################### From: lardyg7@cti.ecp.fr (Gilles LARDY) Date: Sun, 7 Jan 1996 14:07:40 +0100 Subject: Genlisea... >Gilles, >The genlesae that I grow here tend toward semi-aquatic to terrestrial >like utrics.Some I have had for years in the same one liter clear plastic >jar and they have filled it up with little care. As long as they were kept >wet and warm 25C and not in too much light they were fine. >Truly, > >-- >Tom Kahl/Nepenthes Club > Tom, Which species are you growing this way ? Could you give further details on your method ? Best regards, Gilles ***************************** Gilles LARDY E_mail : lardyg7@cti.ecp.fr ################### From: hansmh@sn.no (Hans Martin Hanslin) Date: Sun, 7 Jan 1996 19:31:37 +0100 Subject: Re: Aldrovanda... Michael wrote> >Can anyone refresh me on the distribution of Aldrovanda, and the kind of >habitat it prefers? A recent article discuss some of these aspects. "L. Adamec (1995) Ecological requirements and recent European distribution of the aquatic carnivorous plant _Aldrovanda vesiculosa_. Folia Geobotanica et Phytotaxonomica 30: 53-61". As far as I recall (I have only read the abstract), this species grows in waters with a high CO2 concentration. To imitate such growing conditions, certainly is worth the effort (own experience with plain aquatic plants)and this should probably apply to the more difficult-to-grow aquatic _Utricularia_ and _Aldrovanda_as well (provided your plants receive adequate light). To increase the CO2 concentration in small volumes of water is rather easy. One simple and cheap method is the yeast method where fermentation of sugar in solution gives CO2 which is directed into the water of your plants. Those interested can check out the Aquatic plant mailing list, FINS (http://www.actwin.com/fish/), The Krib (http://www.cco.caltech.edu/~aquaria/Krib/)or The Aquatic Gardeners Assoc homepage (http://blake.oit.unc.edu/~fish/aga/)where topics concerning the culture of aquatic plants are discussed. (Just mail me for more information). Hans Martin Hanslin ################### From: Chris Marsden <100620.2156@compuserve.com> Date: 07 Jan 96 16:17:20 EST Subject: TC Hormone Concentrations Hi Folks! I've only just joined the list - I'm on the cadge for a bit of information! Does anybody have any information on either Tissue culture of ANY repeat ANY cp's? I intend to use Murashige and Skoog Basal medium from Sigma-Aldrich Chemical Company, and I've been advised to use it half-strength for cp's. Does anyone have any views on this (I'm not trying to start World War 3 - honest ;-) )? Should I use any hormones for normal cp's (Dionaea, Drosera, Sarracenia, Pings, etc), i.e. Kinetin, indole-3-acetic acid, etc? I get the feeling I should use something for Nepenthes, but what? I think that's almost my 20 questions... Oh no, hold on, Should I use something different than MS basal medium? Any other hints and tips extremely well received...... Also..... Has anybody IN THE UK got any N. tentaculata, madagascariensis, rajah or sanguinea which I could buy? I've already got just about everybody's catalogue from outside the UK....... ;-x Thank's a lot. HAPPY NEW YEAR TO ALL.... Toby Marsden, 100620,2156@compuserve.com ################### From: "Andreas Wistuba" Date: Mon, 8 Jan 1996 09:44:06 GMT+1 Subject: Re: Brazilian in Europe > I'll be leaving England probably on Sunday or Monday for GErmany, > where I will first visit Thomas Carow. The German part of the trip is not > too well sorted out yet, I just know I the meeting will be on the 20th in > Mannheim or Heidelberg. I'll keep you Germans informed along the way. > I'll write from Joe Mullins' in England. OK? If anyone from the list meets Fernando this week, please forward the following note to him. Thank you very much. Hi Fernando, nice to hear from you. Please let me know as soon as possible about you schedule for Germany. When do you intend to visit me? I need to know as soon as possible so that I can arrange a holiday from my work. Best would perhaps be the 19th and you could stay overnight for the Heidelberg meeting (Peter lives just 15 minutes from my home). Bye for now, Andreas Andreas Wistuba; Mudauer Ring 227; 68259 Mannheim; Germany Phone: +49-621-705471 / +49-621-7152027 Fax: +49-621-7152028 E-Mail: andreas.wistuba@rhein-neckar.de WWW: http://www.rhein-neckar.de/~carnivor/index.html ################### From: Jan@pbc-ths1.pci.chemie.uni-tuebingen.de (Jan Schlauer) Date: Mon, 8 Jan 1996 11:20:12 +0100 Subject: Brazilian in Germany Hi to all!!! The "Germany meets Fernando Rivadavia" convent will be on Sat. 20. Jan., 1996 in Heidelberg. It will be organized by the German cp society, GFP. For further info, please contact: Dr. Peter Harbarth Frankenweg 18 D-69221 Dossenheim phone: (06221) 869760 This is certainly an opportunity you'll have once in a decade (at most). Don't miss it, everyone (at least in and around Germany)! TNX for your participation. Bis bald! Viele Gruesse Kind regards Jan ################### From: "Paul Temple" Date: Mon, 08 Jan 96 14:16:44 +0000 Subject: Re: CP digest 579 +---------------------------+ TM From: Paul Temple | | | | | | | | Dept: Digital | d | i | g | i | t | a | l | Func: Net Comms | | | | | | | | DTN: 7781-1582 +---------------------------+ Easynet: fangio::temple_p Internet: temple_p@gmt.dec.com Loc/MS: GMT Re: Terry's query on what hardy or tender means. I'm not convinced either is a very scientific term and I'm sure my answer isn't! The words tender and hardy are not confined to Pinguicula. They apply equally to all plants. Generally tender plants come from tropical and sub-tropical climates and these plants are unable to withstand frost. Hardy plants come from temperate climates (i.e. where seasonal chilling brings below freezing temperature and plants from such areas are called hardy as they are able to withstand sub-freezing temperatures. Degrees of hardiness or tenderness vry and you will always find plants that are slightly tender or slightly hardy, so they survive short frosts but can't survive prolonged freezing. Occassionally, plantsa from tropical or sub-tropical countries can prove to be hardy but these are exceptions. Hope that helps. Regards Paul ################### From: Gordon Wells (Tel "(343)-401-6659") Date: Mon, 8 Jan 1996 15:33:22 UTC+0100 Subject: CITES and the EEC Does anyone know what the current policy is on CITES requirements within the EEC ? Two large British CP nurseries (Marston Exotics and Sarracenia Nurseries) now point out in their catalogues that with the new EEC agreements now in force, CITES certificates are no longer necessary for CP shipments within the EEC. However, I've seen other European nurseries (Marcel Lecoufle, Nature et Paysages) and private growers that are still charging for them. Are these people simply not aware of the new situation, or are CITES certificates in fact still required within the EEC ? If anyone has any reliable information on this, it could save some of us a bit of money. Thanks. Gordon Wells Instituto de Cibernetica Diagonal 647, planta 2 Barcelona 08028 SPAIN ################### From: "Paul Temple" Date: Mon, 08 Jan 96 15:04:25 +0000 Subject: UK CP meeting date? +---------------------------+ TM From: Paul Temple | | | | | | | | Dept: Digital | d | i | g | i | t | a | l | Func: Net Comms | | | | | | | | DTN: 7781-1582 +---------------------------+ Easynet: fangio::temple_p Internet: temple_p@gmt.dec.com Loc/MS: GMT Sorry to all non UK subscribers but does anyone know when and where the next UK CPS meeting is? Regards Paul ################### From: "Paul Temple" Date: Mon, 08 Jan 96 16:18:59 +0000 Subject: New (?) Publication on Pitcher Plants +---------------------------+ TM From: Paul Temple | | | | | | | | Dept: Digital | d | i | g | i | t | a | l | Func: Net Comms | | | | | | | | DTN: 7781-1582 +---------------------------+ Easynet: fangio::temple_p Internet: temple_p@gmt.dec.com Loc/MS: GMT Kew Gardens have released a publication entitled "Pitchers in trade", a Kew Conservation Review. Although new to me, it says 1994 on the cover. To quote the cover page this is "a conservation review of the carnivorous plant genera Sarracenia, Darlingtonia and Heliamphora". There are 61 pages, with a very few line drawings, no colour. Contents are: Aknowledgements (big deal!), Introduction, The genus Sarracenia (about two pages on each species, sub-species and form), genus Darlingtonia (3 pages), genus Heliamphora (3 pages), rerefernces and Annexes (what I call Appendices). The annexes includea Sarracenia key, checklist of Sarracenia species, a useful description of IUCN Red Data Book categories, even more useful Proposed new IUCN criteria, US Conservation and Protection Status, Definition of Artificial Propogation (big deal) and a key to Heliamphora. Finally there's a glossary. It's available from the Kew bookshop at a cost of 6.00 pounds sterling. Its not a book for beginners or average collectors and its definately not a coffee table book (i.e. its not pretty enough to leave out to impress your friends). It's the sort of softback that someone would buy if they collect all things to do with CP or if they're a Pitcher Plant fanatic or if they're deeply into conservation. If I missed prior announcements of all this in CPN or elsewhere, just take this as an announcement that it's back in the Kew bookshop! Regards Paul ################### From: Perry Malouf Date: Mon, 8 Jan 1996 13:13:10 -0500 (EST) Subject: East Coast Blizzard Pete D'Amato's recent CPN article notwithstanding, I doubt my N. khasiana would survive being left outside nowadays. The Washington, DC area was just hit by a near-record-setting snowstorm that left better than 18 inches of light powdery snow. All businesses are closed, I've seen 4-wheel-drive vehicles get stuck, and the plows haven't attended to the side streets yet. I have some Dionaea muscipula plants and a few North American Droserae buried outside and covered with mulch and plastic (and snow!). They'll probably survive. On a different subject, is it easier to shovel 6" of snow three times in 1.5 days, or to shovel 18" just once? I opted for the former, and I'm pretty sore in the expected places. The school children must be having a blast. Perry ################### From: uyg@ornl.gov (Joseph Guy) Date: Mon, 8 Jan 1996 14:50:50 -0500 (EST) Subject: Dormancy Hello All, and Happy new year. I have not allowed my Dionea to enter dormancy yet, primarily because it was recovering from an initial poor potting. It has shown its appreciation, and now I would like to have it enter dormancy. I have seen figures as long as 4 months for a dormancy period, and the extremes of placing outside in the snow to leaving in a 50F room. What should be the maximum temperature for dormancy, and the minimum time of dormancy? Point me in the right direction, and I will go there. Thanks! Joseph Guy uyg@ornl.gov He that hath no rule over his own spirit is like a city that is broken down, and without walls. Prov.25:28 KJV ################### From: "Demetrio Lamzaki" Date: Mon, 8 Jan 96 21:09:53 UT Subject: Indoor Lighting Systems Hi Everyone, I want to get a multi-shelved lighting system (preferably with adjustible shelf heights) to grow some carnivorous plants indoors. So far the only plant related catalogues I've seen have one or at the most two styles available at very expensive prices. I wonder if there are any places with more extensive ranges of products? I'd happily buy a used system if it's in proper working order if I can't find a new one for a decent price, can anyone in the U.S. help me on this? Regards, Demetrios ################### From: Perry Malouf Date: Mon, 8 Jan 1996 16:52:26 -0500 (EST) Subject: Re: Indoor Lighting Systems Demetrios wrote: > I want to get a multi-shelved lighting system (preferably > with adjustible shelf heights) to grow some carnivorous > plants indoors. So far the only plant related catalogues > I've seen have one or at the most two styles available at > very expensive prices... I believe you may be referring to the variety of shelf units with fluorescent lights, and a frame of aluminum tubing. Some of them are available with wheels. Yes, these are very expensive and not necessarily best suited for growing CPs. The best advice I can offer, from my own experience, is to forget about the commercial units. You'll do better to build your own. The shelf units have features that you won't need. So, you can build something more suited to growing CPs for less money. At some places you can purchase 4-foot long fluorescent fixtures for not a whole lot of money. The framing is up to your own design and construction skills, not to mention your imagination. Perry ################### From: Robert Beer Date: Mon, 8 Jan 1996 14:27:22 -0800 (PST) Subject: Re: Indoor Lighting Systems The commercially-available fluorescent systems do seem to be outrageous; so much so that when I worked in a plant store a couple years back, we just generally never stocked them because they never sold. You are much better off getting some decent adjustable shelving at a home center. You can use plain old plant trays or whatever to keep water from spilling. Shop lights do just fine for the lighting and you can attach them to the bottom of each shelf. If you want to put out a little more you can get fixtures especially designed for plants; which basically means that the reflector is wider. I got my shop lights for about 13 bucks each for a double 4' tube and they are still working 8 years later. Bob On Mon, 8 Jan 1996, Demetrio Lamzaki wrote: > Hi Everyone, > > I want to get a multi-shelved lighting system (preferably with > adjustible shelf heights) to grow some carnivorous plants indoors. So > far the only plant related catalogues I've seen have one or at the > most two styles available at very expensive prices. I wonder if there > are any places with more extensive ranges of products? I'd happily > buy a used system if it's in proper working order if I can't find a > new one for a decent price, can anyone in the U.S. help me on this? > > Regards, > > Demetrios > ################### From: Peter Cole Date: Mon, 08 Jan 1996 23:10:20 GMT Subject: Re: UK CP meeting date? Paul Temple writes: > Sorry to all non UK subscribers but does anyone know when and where the next UK > CPS meeting is? > > Regards > > Paul Saturday 13th January at Reading Uni. ?Botany Dept. I gather it's to start at 2pm, and Fernando will be there. Happy growing, Peter ################### From: Glenn Rankin Date: Mon, 8 Jan 96 18:29:22 PST Subject: dues for ACPS Hi, Does someone know what the 1996 dues are for the Australian Carnivorous Plant Society (for those of us in the USA)? Glenn Rankin rankin@hpl.hp.com ################### From: bertozzi.terry@wpo.pi.sa.gov.au Date: Tue, 09 Jan 1996 15:20:29 +0930 Subject: RE: ACPS Dues Glenn, >Does someone know what the 1996 dues are for the Australian Carnivorous >Plant Society (for those of us in the USA)? The ACPS dues are the same as last year AUD $18 Cheers Terry ################### From: hansmh@sn.no (Hans Martin Hanslin) Date: Tue, 9 Jan 1996 07:33:49 +0100 Subject: Re:seed germination >I have some seed from Allen that refuses to germinate >even with this high GA3 concentration and some others of which only a few >germinate. So I'm not sure if you will succeed with a lower concentration. Could you be more specific about the species that do not respond to your treatment. I am awaiting a batch of seeds from Lowrie and have planned to experiment with gibberellic acid (1 mg/ml). Do you (or any) know if the concentration of GA affects the survival of the seedlings. I applied GA (unknown concentration) to seeds of _U. calycifida_. Both control and treated seeds germinated (70-80% success), with the germination of the control seeds a week delayed. Unfortunately the "treated" seedlings died within a week. Just a coincidence - or are there similar observations? Hans Martin Hanslin ################### From: Johannes_Marabini@fUe.maus.de (Johannes Marabini) Date: Sun, 07 Jan 96 14:03:00 GMT Subject: Re:Nepenthes soils Hallo Christoph, I made the experiences, that Nepenthes in nature are growing in quite different soils. In culture I am using one standart-substrat for all. Also the plants, which grow on ultrabasic soils do not suffer in normal substrat. Ultrabasic is not "basic" in difference to "acid". This soil is rich in magnesia, which is sometimes toxic to other plants in this concentration. Therefor you find many specialists on such soils. And these plants like a little bit more magnesia in the fertilizer! Bye Johannes Johannes Marabini Sperlingstr.10 91315 Hoechstadt/Aisch Germany Tel./Fax 49 9193 4866 ################### From: Oliver T Massey CFS Date: Tue, 9 Jan 1996 09:55:26 -0500 (EST) Subject: Re: Indoor Lighting Systems > I want to get a multi-shelved lighting system (preferably with > adjustible shelf heights) to grow some carnivorous plants indoors. So > far the only plant > related catalogues I've seen have one or at the most two styles > available at very expensive prices. I wonder if there are any places > with more extensive ranges of products? I'd happily buy a used system > if it's in proper working order if I can't find a new one for a decent > price, can anyone in the U.S. help me on this? > > > Regards, > > > Demetrios > > I had this same problem. I used to use a simple, strong utility shelving that came from Sears. It had steel shelves that screwed at each of the four corners into steel posts. Very versatile, very stable and took a lot of weight but rusted badly and tough to adjust when loaded. The newer stuff with corner poles made of lightweight angle iron I found to be _way_ too unstable. Now I am using shelving I made by ripping 2 X 6s for posts. The shelves are rough oak planking from pallets nailed and glued to ripped 2 x 4s. I think I have about 65 sq. ft. of shelf space now -still not enough :). Mounting lights is easy on any of these. If you want inexpensive and don't want to make your own, you might try utility style, if you want neat for the wife, mom or the visiting minister you could try melamine bookcase style. Hope this offers some ideas. Tom in Fl ################### From: L235@aol.com Date: Tue, 9 Jan 1996 10:24:02 -0500 Subject: Re: New CP??????????? A webcrawler search on "carnivorous plants" turned up Sally & Co. Seeds page, an online catalog which lists a "Chinese Fly-Catching Vine" Aristilochia deblis, the description of which states (and I paraphrase): "A carnivorous plant with long, peculiar, insectivorous flowers." I'm just a novice in this hobby, but in all of my reading, I've NEVER come across this cp, and I've seen stated repeatedly that pollination and fertilization are evolutionary separate functions in cps, i.e. you'd be more likely to find a 30' man-eating Drosera than you would an insect-eating flower. Can somebody set me straight on this? ################### From: L235@aol.com Date: Tue, 9 Jan 1996 10:29:11 -0500 Subject: Re: DC-area cp club? I've asked this previously, but in the spirit of the new year (and since I received no responses to the last query) I'll ask again: Is there, has there been, or is anyone interested (besides me) in starting, reviving, etc. a U.S. Capital-area CP club/sub-club? I seem to run into a lot of fellow CPers who live in the Washington DC metropolitan area. A few veterans (Perry Malouf, et al) and lots of newbies/semi-newbies like myself. The advantages seem obvious: personal contact, plant-trades, perhaps even a local newsletter (I'm a writer/editor by trade). Additionally, maybe we could help save the comparatively paltry CP collection at the U.S. Botanical Gardens, or even start a U.S.-native CP collection at the National Arboretum (my mind spins with the possibilities). Look forward to any and all responses, personal or otherwise (just leave my mother out of it ) Hopefully yours, Jay Lechtman (L235@aol.com) Reston, VA USA ################### From: Perry Malouf Date: Tue, 9 Jan 1996 11:19:22 -0500 (EST) Subject: Re: DC-area cp club? Jay Lechtman writes: > ...Is there, has there been, or is anyone interested > (besides me) in starting, reviving, etc. a U.S. Capital-area > CP club/sub-club? I seem to run into a lot of fellow CPers who > live in the Washington DC metropolitan area. A few veterans > (Perry Malouf, et al.... How flattering :-) Admittedly, though, I'm not a veteran _cultivator_ compared with other experts in the area. > The advantages seem obvious: personal contact, plant-trades, > perhaps even a local newsletter... I see a few minor problems with the above. Some people don't want personal contact, or they are very choosy about the people who contact them. There are many reasons for this, not the least of which is security for one's own personal collection. Regarding a newsletter, I think that very quickly there will be a dearth of material submitted for publication. Nice of you to volunteer your writer/ publisher talents, though. > ...Additionally we could help save the > comparatively paltry CP collection at the U.S. Botanical Gardens, or even > start a U.S.-native CP collection at the National Arboretum (my mind spins > with the possibilities). The CP collection at the U.S. Botanical Gardens is neither comparatively paltry nor in need of saving, the last I checked. You may be referring to the plant material on display in the conservatory. There is also a production greenhouse facility in SW Washington, NOT OPEN TO THE PUBLIC, UNFORTUNATELY, with many gorgeous Nepenthes plants. There are also Pings, Sarrs, Droserae, and others all tended to by Bill McLaughlin. When U.S. Botanic moved into their new production facility a few years ago, Bill mentioned having some sort of limited open house but it never came to fruition as far as I know. (I've since lost contact with him altogether). Only a small fraction of the plants are displayed at the Conservatory for a variety of reasons. First, Nepenthes are classified as "Old World Plants", but the only place in the Conservatory that's humid enough to accomodate them is the "New World Plants" room that houses mostly Bromeliads from South America. Now, I personally don't give a darned if "New World" and "Old World" plants are mixed in a display (maybe they can change the name of the display room?). But apparently this is a no-no in the unwritten rules of botanical display. There are also some political hurdles within the organization of the Garden that must be dealt with in order for various things to go on display. Sad, but true :-( Perry ################### From: Jan@pbc-ths1.pci.chemie.uni-tuebingen.de (Jan Schlauer) Date: Tue, 9 Jan 1996 18:30:35 +0100 Subject: Re: New CP? No. Dear L235, >A webcrawler search on "carnivorous plants" turned up Sally & Co. Seeds page, >an online catalog which lists a "Chinese Fly-Catching Vine" Aristilochia >deblis, the description of which states (and I paraphrase): "A carnivorous >plant with long, peculiar, insectivorous flowers." I'm just a novice in this >hobby, but in all of my reading, I've NEVER come across this cp, and I've >seen stated repeatedly that pollination and fertilization are evolutionary >separate functions in cps, i.e. you'd be more likely to find a 30' man-eating >Drosera than you would an insect-eating flower. Can somebody set me straight >on this? Yes, _Aristolochia_ (a fairly large genus of Aristolochiaceae) is able to catch and retain small animals in the flowers for some time, and yes, the flowers are "long, peculiar". But this serves (as you have insinuated already quite correctly) the purpose of pollination, and the insects & c. are released alive after a while to be able to visit other flowers of the same species. So neither is this plant carnivorous nor are the flowers insectivorous. The plant does not (normally) kill its "prey" nor does it digest or absorb anything but its own pollen (or rather pollen introduced by the caught insects from other flowers of the same species). So it is not a fault to have an _Aristolochia_ in the collection but please remove the label "carnivorous". Kind regards Jan ################### From: sportman@students.wisc.edu Date: Tue, 9 Jan 1996 15:38:02 -0600 Subject: Insect-catching flowers (was Re: New CP????) >A webcrawler search on "carnivorous plants" turned up Sally & Co. Seeds page, >an online catalog which lists a "Chinese Fly-Catching Vine" As Jan pointed out, Aristolochia doesn't actually eat insects. Here's some other interesting plants that have structures to trap insects but are not cp's. Most are in cultivation: Coryanthes - an orchid genus in which the flowers have an upside down basin filled with an intoxicating liquid - a bee falls in, gets drunk, and picks up pollen bundles as it staggers out. These can be grown with lowland Nepenthes, if you use a fan for air circulation. Aesclepiadaceae - many milkweed relatives temporarily detain insects in their flowers. Good examples include some Ceropegias (haygarthii, balleyana and others), Pseudomallum pectinarium. Araceae - others know more about this than me, but there's a number of aroids, including some Amorphophallus, which have collapsing flowers designed to temporarily trap pollinators. A little off the cp thread, but interesting anyway. ################### From: Paul Seymour Date: Wed, 10 Jan 1996 09:23:03 +1000 Subject: Tissue Culture Could someone recommended a good book or website for learning about tissue culture? I remember someone on this list mentioning a while ago that they were constructing a web guide to "Kitchen Tissue Culture" which is probably what I'm looking for. Thanks, Paul. ################### From: DAVIDDOG@aol.com Date: Tue, 9 Jan 1996 19:15:27 -0500 Subject: Re: Insect-Eating flowers There are to my knowledge at least four families of plants in which flowers occur that trap and incidentally kill their pollenating insects ( but don't digest them and so are not "carnivorous" ); the waterlily family Nymphaeaceae, the arum or philodendron family Araceae, the milkweed family Asclepiadaceae, and the pipevine family Aristolochiaceae. Less clear are the trapping features of the orchid family, Orchidaceae, where many flowers exsist that variously dunk, slap, tease, imitate, and do practicaly anything but trap their insect. There was rumored to be a trapping orchid: Masdevallia muscosa - if anyone knows anything of it I would be most interested. Evolutionarily, there would be nothing stopping a plant from trapping for consumption any and all non-pollenating insects as long as that did not affect their target pollenator species. Its a fascinating question: why haven't carnivores evolved to more directly exploit the pollenating habits of insects? Or do the pitcher plants do this? David daviddog@aol.com >Subject: Re: New CP??????????? >Message-ID: <960109102400_36209461@mail06.mail.aol.com> >A webcrawler search on "carnivorous plants" turned up Sally & Co. Seeds page, >an online catalog which lists a "Chinese Fly-Catching Vine" Aristilochia >plant with long, peculiar, insectivorous flowers." I'm just a novice in this >hobby, but in all of my reading, I've NEVER come across this cp, and I've >seen stated repeatedly that pollination and fertilization are evolutionary >separate functions in cps, i.e. you'd be more likely to find a 30' man-eating >Drosera than you would an insect-eating flower. Can somebody set me straight >on this? ################### From: Jan@pbc-ths1.pci.chemie.uni-tuebingen.de (Jan Schlauer) Date: Wed, 10 Jan 1996 10:59:37 +0100 Subject: Re: Insect-Eating flowers Dear David, You have raised two not completely uninteresting questions: >Evolutionarily, there would be nothing stopping a plant from trapping for >consumption any and all non-pollenating insects as long as that did not >affect their target pollenator species. In fact, there are many examples of flowers which protect themselves from crawling beasts (which would cause self-pollination more frequently than flying guests which change their "host" individuals more frequently) by means of adhesive secretions on stems, inflorescence axes, bracts, pedicels, calyces, etc. In some cases, these plants are dangerously close to carnivory (at least the wingless taxa thus excluded do frequently not survive their trip to these inflorescences). It may be noteworthy that in the case of glandular bracts or calyx lobes it is mostly the lower (outer, abaxial) surface which bears the glands, and the supposedly more "primitive" representatives of the clade including so well-known carnivores as Nepenthaceae and Droseraceae, viz. _Drosophyllum_, and to some degree _Triphyophyllum_ carry their stalked glands also on the *abaxial* leaf surface. We cannot (yet?) reconstruct the course of evolution with any certainty in these cases but I could imagine these trapping leaves to have been transformed from former adhesive inflorescence structures (NB: _Plumbago_, a suggested non-carnivorous sister taxon of Nepenthaceae, does have glandular inflorescence parts, and of course it has plumbagin, and...?). >why haven't carnivores evolved to more directly >exploit the pollenating habits of insects? Or do the pitcher plants do this? Most cps have traps which are resembling flowers in many respects. In _Cephalotus_ and _Nepenthes_, the traps are much more showy than the flowers (at least to my eyes). Kind regards Jan ################### From: "Carl Strohmenger (HSC)" Date: Wed, 10 Jan 1996 05:55:36 -0500 (EST) Subject: Re: Tissue Culture Books Carolina Biological Supply has 3 books on plant TC. Methods in Plant Tissue Culture by Paul J. Bottino, 1981, 72 pages. Experiments in Plant Tissue Culture by John H Dodds and Lorin W. Roberts, 1993 (2nd ed.), 232 pages. Introduction to In Vitro Propagation by Donald Wetherell, 1982, 87 pages. Their _800_ number is 1-800-334-5551 The catalog is loaded with all sorts of interesting scientific/educational stuff. - Carl ################### From: writserv@mi.net Date: Wed, 10 Jan 1996 08:30:46 -0400 Subject: Re: Insect-catching flowers (was Re: New CP????) >>A webcrawler search on "carnivorous plants" turned up Sally & Co. >>Seeds page, an online catalog which lists a "Chinese Fly-Catching >>Vine" > > >As Jan pointed out, Aristolochia doesn't actually eat insects. Here's >some other interesting plants that have structures to trap insects but >are not cp's. Most are in cultivation: > >Coryanthes - an orchid genus in which the flowers have an upside down >basin filled with an intoxicating liquid - a bee falls in, gets drunk, >and picks up pollen bundles as it staggers out. These can be grown >with lowland Nepenthes, if you use a fan for air circulation. > >Aesclepiadaceae - many milkweed relatives temporarily detain insects in >their flowers. Good examples include some Ceropegias (haygarthii, >balleyana and others), Pseudomallum pectinarium. > >Araceae - others know more about this than me, but there's a number of >aroids, including some Amorphophallus, which have collapsing flowers >designed to temporarily trap pollinators. > >A little off the cp thread, but interesting anyway. ... And let's not forget the ARISAEMA, which is commonly known around New Brunswick, Canada, as the "Jack in the Pulpit." Having grown these for many years because their woodland habitant is being destroyed (I return the pups to protected sites), I have noticed that the mature cups usually contain a variety of dead insects. This is _not_ to say that the plants are carnivorous, just a bunch of dead bugs at the bottom of the hooded spathe. There is no trap; insects may come and go freely. The point is, the thing _looks_ like it should be a CP. Speaking of Araceae, Sauromatum guttatum puts forth strikingly beautiful flowers that have the stench of rotting meat. Flies abound, but as the blooms only last for a few days (thankfully) there is not a probability of carnivorous activity. The rest of the plant is attractive leafy foliage. Rand Nicholson (writserv@mi.net) Canada ################### From: writserv@mi.net Date: Wed, 10 Jan 1996 08:30:53 -0400 Subject: Re: Insect-Eating flowers >There are to my knowledge at least four families of plants in which flowers >occur that trap and incidentally kill their pollenating insects ( but don't >digest them and so are not "carnivorous" ); the waterlily family >Nymphaeaceae, the arum or philodendron family Araceae, the milkweed family >Asclepiadaceae, and the pipevine family Aristolochiaceae. Less clear are the >trapping features of the orchid family, Orchidaceae, where many flowers >exsist that variously dunk, slap, tease, imitate, and do practicaly anything >but trap their insect. There was rumored to be a trapping orchid: Masdevallia >muscosa - if anyone knows anything of it I would be most interested. > >Evolutionarily, there would be nothing stopping a plant from trapping for >consumption any and all non-pollenating insects as long as that did not >affect their target pollenator species. >Its a fascinating question: why haven't carnivores evolved to more directly >exploit the pollenating habits of insects? Or do the pitcher plants do this? > >David > >daviddog@aol.com I think that you have the question wrong. Insects do not have pollenating agendas, they look for food. CPs take advantage of this. Rand Nicholson (writserv@mi.net) Canada ################### From: Peter Cole Date: Wed, 10 Jan 1996 10:42:55 GMT Subject: Re: Indoor Lighting Systems > From: Robert Beer ... > You are much better off getting some decent adjustable shelving at a home > center. You can use plain old plant trays or whatever to keep water from > spilling. Shop lights do just fine for the lighting and you can attach > them to the bottom of each shelf. If you want to put out a little more > you can get fixtures especially designed for plants; which basically > means that the reflector is wider. I got my shop lights for about 13 Alternatively, cooking foil pasted to the underside of each shelf is very cheap, very easy and surprisingly neat if you cut it to size and use wallpaper paste. If you're pasting onto the ubiquitous black-painted metal it's advisable to key the surface with a little coarse sandpaper first. Best to do this before attaching the lights which can be reflectorless, end-cap-connector aquarium types run from a separate control box for the cheapest option (you can piggyback several of these from one box if you get the highest power control box you can find and splice extra lamps into the circuit, but obviously it's a good idea not to let the total lamp power exceed the control box power rating.) Happy bodging, Peter Disclaimer - only attempt the above lighting modifications if you consider yourself electrically competent. If you crosswire the lamps and fuse your house (or worse,) I won't be held responsible. But it works for me. ################### From: Peter Cole Date: Wed, 10 Jan 1996 10:04:52 GMT Subject: Re: Seed germination > Date: Tue, 9 Jan 1996 07:33:49 +0100 > From: hansmh@sn.no (Hans Martin Hanslin) > To: cp@opus.hpl.hp.com > Subject: Re:seed germination > Message-ID: <199601090633.HAA04253@hasle.sn.no> > > >I have some seed from Allen that refuses to germinate > >even with this high GA3 concentration and some others of which only a few > >germinate. So I'm not sure if you will succeed with a lower concentration. > > > Could you be more specific about the species that do not respond to your > treatment. I am awaiting a batch of seeds from Lowrie and have planned > to experiment with gibberellic acid (1 mg/ml). Do you (or any) know if > the concentration of GA affects the survival of the seedlings. I applied > GA (unknown concentration) to seeds of _U. calycifida_. Both control and > treated seeds germinated (70-80% success), with the germination of the > control seeds a week delayed. Unfortunately the "treated" seedlings died > within a week. Just a coincidence - or are there similar observations? I'd say 1000ppm was way too high a dose - I use 250ppm for seeds, and have observed this 'overdose' effect on Proboscidea parviflora when I was first playing with GA3 and didn't know about the dosage (well, OK, I mostly just wanted to see what would happen :) I probably had a concentration several times yours. They just burst open in a mass of cells, and then died. I can't comment on how they compared to normally germinating ones, as I'm still waiting for a more sensibly treated batch to sprout, but I believe excess GA3 will at least inhibit rooting. I know that some tissue cultured plants require exogenous GA3 for satisfactory micropropagation (Potato, Dahlia, etc.) but the dosage used is in the order of 0.1mg/L - does anyone know if any CPs (in tissue culture,) fall into this category? And if testament to the power of GA3 was needed, I had a Mimosa pudica germinate the other day in 2 1/2 days after 24hrs in 250ppm GA3!! - not bad for last year's seed! Happy growing, Peter ################### From: "Carlstrom_Rick" Date: 10 Jan 96 14:04:00 EST Subject: Washinton DC Area CP'ers Jay Lechtman from Reston VA wrote looking for CP'ers in the Washington DC area. I am one and have posted three or four times to the list. I live in Alexandria VA I have been interested in CP (Darlingtonia, Dionea, Drosera and Sarracenias) since I was about 12. I have been actively growing CP for at least eight years. Currently I grow S. flava (1), S. minor (3), S. leaucophila (1), S. purpurea (6), D. muscipula (3), D. californica (2). D. capinous (1) (please excuse the spelling). Up until about 3 years ago I only had 3 plants. Your idea of trying to resurrect the pitiful US botanical garden CP exhibit is worth a try. I have often thought about it. However, did you also know that Green Springs Garden Park located on RT 236 about 1 mile west of 395 has a CP bog, also in need of attention. This park is run by Fairfax County on donated land. It might be a better candidate for volunteer work because there will probably be a lot less red tape to cut through and someone on the staff must be interested in CP because they also have a Nepenthes in the green house. Happy CPing Rick Carlstrom ################### From: DDembicki@aol.com Date: Wed, 10 Jan 1996 09:33:39 -0500 Subject: Re: Tissue Culture Books For those of you trying to reach them from out of the USA their Direct Dial 910-584-0381. They also carry live plants. Talk to Gwenette. Dan Dembicki In a message dated 96-01-10 06:13:34 EST, you write: >Subj: Re: Tissue Culture Books >Date: 96-01-10 06:13:34 EST >From: cstrohme@com1.med.usf.edu (Carl Strohmenger (HSC)) >Sender: cp@opus.hpl.hp.com >Reply-to: cp@opus.hpl.hp.com >To: cp@opus.hpl.hp.com (Multiple recipients of list) > >Carolina Biological Supply has 3 books on plant TC. > >Methods in Plant Tissue Culture by Paul J. Bottino, 1981, 72 pages. > >Experiments in Plant Tissue Culture by John H Dodds and Lorin W. Roberts, >1993 (2nd ed.), 232 pages. > >Introduction to In Vitro Propagation by Donald Wetherell, 1982, 87 pages. > >Their _800_ number is 1-800-334-5551 > >The catalog is loaded with all sorts of interesting >scientific/educational stuff. > >- Carl > > ################### From: L235@aol.com Date: Wed, 10 Jan 1996 09:54:54 -0500 Subject: Re: Indoor lighting systems In CP digest 585, Demetrio Lamzaki writes: >I want to get a multi-shelved lighting system (preferably >with adjustible >shelf heights) to grow some carnivorous plants indoors. So >far the only plant >related catalogues I've seen have one or at the most two >styles available at >very expensive prices. I built a relatively inexpensive ($100) unit for the bathroom rough-in in our basement with a cheap shelving unit from IKEA, the Swedish furniture place that's popping up around the country. I think the unit name is IVAR. Unfinished pine piece, about 20" deep and 34" wide, perhaps 80" high, with three adjustable shelves. I screwed eye hooks into the bottoms of each shelf, and hung 24" two-bulb flourescent fixtures from small chains, so they're adjustable as well, both are wired together to a single plug attached to a timer. The whole thing is wrapped (around the back and sides) with a white shower curtain, and the front has two pieces of clear plastic shower curtain. I glued velcro up the sides of each, so I can roll it up partway to adjust the ventilation as I need to. It seems humid enough for my orchids, and all of my indoor/tropical cps (include a nepenthes hybrid) except for D. adelae and D. venusta. they're doing much better in a small terrarium I have set up inside this contraption to raise the humidity. If you're interested, I'm sure I can sketch out some plans, but hopefully this is detailed enough. It's functional, it's big, and it was comparatevely inexpensive. Jay Lechtman l235@aol.com ################### From: L235@aol.com Date: Wed, 10 Jan 1996 10:13:29 -0500 Subject: Re: DC CP club Perry Malouf, in responding to my query regarding starting a DC CP club, raises some valid concerns, which I'll briefly address here: >Some people don't want personal contact, or they are very >choosy about the people who contact them. There are many >reasons for this, not the least of which is security for one's >own personal collection. Many clubs meet in neutral territory, i.e. not at a member's home: The National Capital Orchid Society meets at the Arboretum, numerous wildflower clubs in and around DC meet at public gardens or nature centers, etc. Even a local community center would be a possibility. >Regarding a newsletter, I think that very quickly there will be >a dearth of material submitted for publication. Nice of you to >volunteer your writer/publisher talents, though. In the publishing biz, newsletter frequency and page count is dictated by the supply of information. A quarterly or semi-annual publication schedule with a few pages (4, 8, etc.) could easily be filled with classifieds, growing tips, announcements (like the annual Cheltenham Bog open house in Suburban Maryland (nice S. purpurea I'm told), or when the Droserae are blooming in the Cranesville Swamp, etc.) A feature on a local grower or plant would fill space and be useful (and the grower's address could be left off for privacy, etc., etc.) And referring to the comparatively paltry cp collection at the U.S. Botanical Gardens, I was referring to the conservatory display ... being the only thing open to the public, that's all that really counts in my book. Private collections may be nice, but they don't do me or the public any good, you know? Hope that allays your concerns, Perry, and whomever else may be watching this thread. Jay Lechtman L235@aol.com ################### From: L235@aol.com Date: Wed, 10 Jan 1996 10:18:18 -0500 Subject: Re: DC-area CP Message from Rick Carlstrom Rick Carlstrom (Carlstrom_rick@advmar.comnavy.mil) sent me a note expressing his interest in the idea of a DC-area CP club. However, Rick, I can't reply to the e-mail address you provided. I'll send you a personal reply when you can get me an address ... thanks, Jay Lechtman L235@aol.com ################### From: Ivo Koudela Date: Wed, 10 Jan 96 16:50:56 MEZ Subject: help with French & Japanese CP books This message is intended primarily to our French and Japanese colleagues or anybody who can help me with filling necessary data. The CP book file still has some gaps concerning CP books above all in French and Japanese. I think this file can be useful for everyone interested in CPs and therefore I would appreciate any help. Ivo from the Czech Republic ################### From: carl.gustafson@cbis.ECE.Drexel.EDU (Carl Gustafson) Date: Wed, 10 Jan 1996 13:48:34 -0500 Subject: Re: Insect-catching flowers >Coryanthes - an orchid genus in which the flowers have an upside down basin >filled with an intoxicating liquid - a bee falls in, gets drunk, and picks >up pollen bundles as it staggers out. These can be grown with lowland >Nepenthes, if you use a fan for air circulation. >> >A little off the cp thread, but interesting anyway. And ompanions for the highland nepanthes would be members of orchid genera Porroglossum, Condylago and Acostea, all of which have flowers with hinged lips that throw pollinators into the flower. I believe that one or two Australian terrestrial orchids have similar mechanisms. Grow these with tuberous drossera, perhaps? ################### From: Steve Klitzing Date: Wed, 10 Jan 96 11:07:18 PST Subject: Nepenthes pitcher lid deformation Hi: I've noticed something that occurs occasionally with some of my Nepenthes plants. Sometimes, a pitcher gets produced that is deformed. Usually, this means that the cap did not fully grow, leaving mainly an open pitcher. I am wondering if my use of pesticide in the greenhouse could have caused this. Once in a while, I use Black Flag to get rid of ants in my orchids. Could it be, that the airborne insecticide affects the Nepenthes plant in this way? If so, is there a more appropriate way to deal with occasional ant invasions? Also, I've waited about 6 weeks now for Alan Lowrie to fill my order for Nepenthes seed. Is this a normal waiting time for this outfit? So far, I'd have to say the most prolific CPs I've grown are: Drosera Capensis Nepenthes Ventricosa Utricularis Sandersonii In less than two years, the U. Sandersonii has gone from the size of a nickel to filling an entire 6-inch pot. The N. Ventricosa keeps producing huge pitchers for such a small plant. And the D. Capensis just keeps flowering and growing and making more little ones. ---Steve ################### From: Christopher Creel Date: Wed, 10 Jan 96 12:18:44 MST Subject: Re: CP digest 586Nepenthes Seeds Hello, I am looking for sources for Nepenthes seeds. Any leads would be greatly appreciated. Chris ################### From: Clarke Brunt Date: Tue, 9 Jan 1996 21:17:18 +0000 Subject: Re: Dormancy On 8 Jan 96 at 11:54, Joseph Guy wrote: > I have not allowed my Dionea to enter dormancy yet, primarily because > it was recovering from an initial poor potting. It has shown its > appreciation, and now I would like to have it enter dormancy. > > I have seen figures as long as 4 months for a dormancy period, and the > extremes of placing outside in the snow to leaving in a 50F room. > > What should be the maximum temperature for dormancy, and the minimum > time of dormancy? I think that when you see different accounts giving widely different suggestions, it just means that the conditions don't actually matter too much, and there is no single 'right' way. My VFTs get treatment near the top end of your temperature range. About 45F / 7C for several months (warmer than this most days). This is just the normal conditions in a slightly heated greenhouse in the UK. The plants don't go totally dormant - they keep some leaves, but don't grow. They seem to do OK in these conditions, but no doubt cooler would be acceptable too. I come to think that too much fuss is made of this 'dormancy' business, but then I haven't experienced the problems of living somewhere that the Winter is too warm. Just what happens if the plants don't get their dormancy? -- Clarke Brunt (clarke@brunt.demon.co.uk) ################### From: "John Phillips" Date: Wed, 10 Jan 96 12:13:31 CST Subject: RE: Nepenthes pitcher lid deformation > >I've noticed something that occurs occasionally with some of my >Nepenthes plants. Sometimes, a pitcher gets produced that is >deformed. Usually, this means that the cap did not fully >grow, leaving mainly an open pitcher. I am wondering if my >use of pesticide in the greenhouse could have caused this. >Once in a while, I use Black Flag to get rid of ants in my >orchids. Could it be, that the airborne insecticide affects >the Nepenthes plant in this way? If so, is there a more >appropriate way to deal with occasional ant invasions? I've seen insects (aphids, etc.) and various temperatures outside the Neps preferred range cause this on my plants outside. I only use Safers insecticidal soap, so I have no experience w/ other chemicals causing deformed lids. John Phillips Email: phillips@library.ucsf.edu Information Services UCSF Health Sciences Library Rm 202 San Francisco, CA 94143-0840 Ph:(415) 476-8383 FAX:(415) 476-7940 ################### From: Rick Walker Date: Wed, 10 Jan 1996 12:54:40 -0800 Subject: Tissue Culture > Date: Wed, 10 Jan 1996 09:23:03 +1000 > From: Paul Seymour > > Could someone recommended a good book or website for learning about > tissue culture? I remember someone on this list mentioning a while ago > that they were constructing a web guide to "Kitchen Tissue Culture" > which is probably what I'm looking for. Dear Paul, I was the one that mentioned the TC guide. It will be a conversion of a slide-show talk that I gave last year at the SF Bay Area CP club. The status is that the slides are now at Kodak being scanned onto a PhotoCD. They should be back in a week. After that, I will add a running textual commentary and install the whole thing onto the web. Here's a high level outline of the talk: Why bother with TC? Some Definitions: Totipotency Meristem Auxin, Cytokinin, Role of each component of TC growth medium Inorganic nutrients Organic Macro/Micro nutrients Simple Home Recipe and Suggested Commercial Media A demonstration of Kitchen Technique Media preparation Sterilization of plant material Sterile technique Culture Maintainance and planting out cultures Bibliography and list of suppliers I'm shooting for having this on the WEB within a month. Also in the works is a slide show titled: "Pings: care and cultivation", which was another BACPS talk. This slide show has pictures of flowers and rosettes of perhaps 15 common ping species, and discusses cultural requirements for each. The whole talk very heavily leverages Juerg Steiger's classification of pings into four groups: Tropical/Homophyllous, Tropical/Heterophyllous, Temperate/Homophyllous, and Temperate/Heterophyllous. Hopefully, this talk will give you an insight into how to grow each type of ping that you may encounter. I also encourage others who have CP slide shows to submit them to me on PhotoCD along with a text-script of the talk. I will be setting aside a new section on the CP WEB page that will be just for educational slide shows. There is also a possibility for someone to do an "Intro to Nepenthes culture", or "An overview of Utricularia", etc. These talks are free to use and leverage the already existing pictures in the database, but they would simply draw on the existing pictures and tie them together into an interesting narrative. I think that such simple overview slide-shows would make the CP database much more accessible to the non-technical visitor. Best regards, -- Rick Walker ################### From: Robert Beer Date: Wed, 10 Jan 1996 13:31:33 -0800 (PST) Subject: RE: Nepenthes pitcher lid deformation I have had this problem with N. ventricosa in the winter when the temperatures get low. The pitcher develops normally but the lid stops about a third of the way into the development. This is not a problem with any of the other Nepenthes I grow inside, as they just stop pitchering completely in the winter, it might be light, as the others tend to wait till the light levels are adequate and then pitcher normally; i.e. an either-or situation. N. ventricosa just doesn't want to stop. :) See if it doesn't correct itself once the temps warm up and the sunlight gets more intense. Good growing bob ################### From: dave evans Date: Wed, 10 Jan 96 16:45 EST Subject: Re: Indoor Lighting Systems > I want to get a multi-shelved lighting system (preferably with > adjustible shelf heights) to grow some carnivorous plants indoors. So > far the only plant related catalogues I've seen have one or at the > most two styles available at very expensive prices. I wonder if there > are any places with more extensive ranges of products? I'd happily > buy a used system if it's in proper working order if I can't find a > new one for a decent price, can anyone in the U.S. help me on this? > > > Demetrios I have never, repeat, never seen anything worth buying for growing CP in a store or cataloge. Most growers I know construct their own terrariums/ growing areas. This has worked very well so far and I'm finishing up the construction of a 300 gal nepenthes growth chamber for low-land Neps. When using your own designs you can take into acount the number of plants as well as their lighting needs so as not to waste space or light and that = saving money. Dave Evans ################### From: writserv@mi.net Date: Wed, 10 Jan 1996 18:27:19 -0400 Subject: Re: Nepenthes pitcher lid deformation > >And the D. Capensis just keeps flowering and growing and >making more little ones. > >---Steve ... and, unless you take a hammer to it, it will continue to do so - on and on and on ... ################### From: writserv@mi.net Date: Wed, 10 Jan 1996 18:27:22 -0400 Subject: Re: Dormancy >> What should be the maximum temperature for dormancy, and the minimum >> time of dormancy? > >I think that when you see different accounts giving widely different >suggestions, it just means that the conditions don't actually matter >too much, and there is no single 'right' way. > >My VFTs get treatment near the top end of your temperature range. >About 45F / 7C for several months (warmer than this most days). >This is just the normal conditions in a slightly heated greenhouse >in the UK. The plants don't go totally dormant - they keep some >leaves, but don't grow. They seem to do OK in these conditions, >but no doubt cooler would be acceptable too. > >I come to think that too much fuss is made of this 'dormancy' >business, but then I haven't experienced the problems of living >somewhere that the Winter is too warm. Just what happens if the >plants don't get their dormancy? > >-- >Clarke Brunt (clarke@brunt.demon.co.uk) Clarke has made a good point. One of my VFT's is sitting in a northwest facing window that is covered with frost. The temp. outside is -21 C and not much higher inside for the plant(just above freezing). The damn thing is covered with blooms. Two stalks with huge white flowers. It has its' winter leaves and I thought it was dormant. Go figure. Rand Nicholson (writserv@mi.net) Canada ################### From: Adrian Arnold Date: Tue, 09 Jan 1996 22:52:05 Subject: Re: New CP??????? When I saw this posting I thought this was probably what I once grew under the common name of 'Cruel plant' but that turns out to be Araujia sericofera and unfortunately none of my reference books list the Aristilochia deblis. However, I would assume it is similar in which case the flower 'catches' the insect for pollenation. The 'cruel plant' has rather sticky pollen which is supposed to be particularly tacky at night and therefore catches moths by their proboscis until the temperature rises and the pollen thins somewhat, thereby releasing the moth - hence the name:-) It is NOT carnivorous however. Regards, Adrian Arnold. >------------------------------ > >Topic No. 12 > >Date: Tue, 9 Jan 1996 10:24:02 -0500 >From: L235@aol.com >To: cp@opus.hpl.hp.com >Subject: Re: New CP??????????? >Message-ID: <960109102400_36209461@mail06.mail.aol.com> > >A webcrawler search on "carnivorous plants" turned up Sally & Co. Seeds page, >an online catalog which lists a "Chinese Fly-Catching Vine" Aristilochia >deblis, the description of which states (and I paraphrase): "A carnivorous >plant with long, peculiar, insectivorous flowers." I'm just a novice in this >hobby, but in all of my reading, I've NEVER come across this cp, and I've >seen stated repeatedly that pollination and fertilization are evolutionary >separate functions in cps, i.e. you'd be more likely to find a 30' man-eating >Drosera than you would an insect-eating flower. Can somebody set me straight >on this? > ################### From: Rick Walker Date: Wed, 10 Jan 1996 15:32:01 -0800 Subject: 1995 CP Listserv Archives on WEB The 1995 CP listserv discussion archive has been installed on the CP WEB page: http://www.hpl.hp.com/bot/cp_home Follow the button labelled "Listserv discussion group", and then click on "CP Discussion Archives for 1995". Cheers! -- Rick ################### From: sportman@students.wisc.edu Date: Wed, 10 Jan 1996 17:36:31 -0600 Subject: re:pinguiculas and gnats Re: the recent thread on Pinguiculas eating fungus gnats...fungus gnats are attracted to yellow - a good way to get rid of them is to use those yellow sticky pads. The big light green leaves of a Pinguicula may well be 'read' as yellow by these gnats... maybe the leaves reflect some yellow-spectrum light. My P. moranensis spends the winter subsisting almost completely on these gnats, and nothing else seems to catch them, not even pygmy drosera. Scott Madison WI ************************************************************************ Alces: Eenie, weenie chili beanie; the spirits are about to speak! Glaucomys: Are they friendly spirits? Alces: Just listen! ************************************************************************ ################### From: CBelan9630@aol.com Date: Wed, 10 Jan 1996 20:16:31 -0500 Subject: Re: DC CP club (it already exists under E. US CP Group)->_Dionaea_ In a message dated 96-01-10 12:59:30 EST, you write: >Perry Malouf, in responding to my query regarding starting a DC CP club, >raises some valid concerns, which I'll briefly address here: > >>Some people don't want personal contact, or they are very >choosy about the >people who contact them. There are many >reasons for this, not the least of >which is security for one's >own personal collection. > >Many clubs meet in neutral territory, i.e. not at a member's home: The >National Capital Orchid Society meets at the Arboretum, numerous wildflower >clubs in and around DC meet at public gardens or nature centers, etc. Even a >local community center would be a possibility. > >>Regarding a newsletter, I think that very quickly there will be >a dearth of >material submitted for publication. Nice of you to >volunteer your >writer/publisher talents, though. > >In the publishing biz, newsletter frequency and page count is dictated by the >supply of information. A quarterly or semi-annual publication schedule with a >few pages (4, 8, etc.) could easily be filled with classifieds, growing tips, >announcements (like the annual Cheltenham Bog open house in Suburban Maryland >(nice S. purpurea I'm told), or when the Droserae are blooming in the >Cranesville Swamp, etc.) A feature on a local grower or plant would fill >space and be useful (and the grower's address could be left off for privacy, >etc., etc.) I am afraid that I only cought the end of a thread here, but there already exists an eastern CP group of people who are not connected to the CP list. For the past 7 years we have been meeting on a fairly regular basis at different sites along the East Coast. The last meeting was at Phil Sheridans house in VA. 40 people were present including one person from Venezuela and one from England. Back in 1991 we gave ourselves the name Eastern Unites States CP Group and are affiliated with the International Carnivorous Plant Society (ICPS). We also put out a Newsletter called _Dionea_ which was sent to over 90 poeple in the last mailing. As we speak, we are working on the next location for our annual meeting and it would be nice if some of you could attend it. It was up for vote in the last newsletter, so the excact place and time is not kown yet. If anyone is interested in this group email me at cbelan9630@aol.com and I will give you more details. Christoph ################### From: dionea@merlin.nando.net Date: Wed, 10 Jan 1996 17:44:05 -0800 Subject: Re: CP digest 585 State never closes! I live near Strickland, so I'll look up your address. Are you in the phone book? Bruce (Good news about next week's class. I fell asleep at the book last nite. My wife laughed when she saw the book down, and my eyes shut. That woke me up enough to get ready for bed. I'll keep trying) ################### From: Perry Malouf Date: Wed, 10 Jan 1996 20:57:57 -0500 (EST) Subject: Re: DC CP club (it already exists... Christoph wrote: > I am afraid that I only cought the end of a thread here, but there > already exists an eastern CP group of people who are not connected to > the CP list. > For the past 7 years we have been meeting on a fairly regular basis > at > different sites along the East Coast. The last meeting was at Phil > Sheridans house in VA. 40 people were present including one person > from Venezuela and one from England. Yeah, I attended that meeting and enjoyed it much. I believe that the proposal intended a DC area CP group that is a little more parochial than the East Coast CP group. The writer spoke of the enthusiasts in the DC metropolitan area, and that doesn't really include folks as far away as Phil Sheridan south of Fredericksburg, VA. We're talking about DC and surrounding suburbs. I wouldn't mind attending a few socials/meetings once in a while if the group ever came together. And, in defense (?) of the constantly-bludgeoned U.S. Botanic Garden, I will re-state that there are internal political motives in the organization that determine what is put on display in the Conservatory, and when. The last I saw there were over a half-dozen decent Nepenthes in a rather modern Wardian case complete with timed lights and automatic misting. The outdoor bog has some very representative specimens of Dionaea and several Sarraceniae. In fact, one list subscriber posted several times the impressive Dionaea he had seen there. It would be nice if the entire Nepenthes collection from the production facility were put on display, but the same is true for the orchids, aroids, ferns, and other plants. Heck, why not open the production facility to the public and forget about the Conservatory. Fact is, you can't do that and still maintain your collection intact. If you want to see more CP's then lobby the U.S. Botanic Garden. They come under the directorate of the Architect of the Capitol. Perry ################### From: dave evans Date: Wed, 10 Jan 96 21:44 EST Subject: Re: Re: Dormancy > I come to think that too much fuss is made of this 'dormancy' > business, but then I haven't experienced the problems of living > somewhere that the Winter is too warm. Just what happens if the > plants don't get their dormancy? Well, they get weak and sickly after a long, long time. Vegatative propagation seems stop this though. I suppose that when you break up a plant, it's life rhythm is well near shattered and goes back to a 'reset' default. If you get flowers in the spring (or any time of year) it is a good indication that your VFT *did* infact get some sort of rest even if it didn't stop growing and enter full dormancy. Dave Evans ################### From: dave evans Date: Wed, 10 Jan 96 21:59 EST Subject: Re: Re: Nepenthes pitcher lid deformation > >And the D. Capensis just keeps flowering and growing and > >making more little ones. > > > >---Steve > > ... and, unless you take a hammer to it, it will continue to do so - on and > on and on ... A professor at a local college I attended had mentioned a TC demonstration he had a class do involving D.capensis. They ground up some plants then spread them on a cookie sheet. Sprayed on food and hormones, though I doubt the latter was needed. They got several hundred plants out of the deal! Dave E. ################### From: dave evans Date: Wed, 10 Jan 96 22:04 EST Subject: Re: re:pinguiculas and gnats > Re: the recent thread on Pinguiculas eating fungus gnats...fungus gnats are > attracted to yellow - a good way to get rid of them is to use those yellow > sticky pads. The big light green leaves of a Pinguicula may well be 'read' > as yellow by these gnats... maybe the leaves reflect some yellow-spectrum > light. My P. moranensis spends the winter subsisting almost completely on > these gnats, and nothing else seems to catch them, not even pygmy drosera. Now this raises an interesting point, what do pygmy Drosera eat? I've never seen anything on the few I grew in the past but perhaps they were so unhappy with the conditions they couldn't. Dave Evans ################### From: CMDodd@aol.com Date: Wed, 10 Jan 1996 22:14:58 -0500 Subject: Re: Aristolochia One could easily be forgiven for mistaking some of the Aristolochia for CP. I was given one species A. macrouii (spelling?) from Brazil that has flowers almost exactly like Nepenthes pitchers. They have a bulbous base, then a constriction, narrow tube, mouth with lid (the underside of the lid is covered with dense short hair) plus an unusual 'tassle' that hangs down from the midpoint of the end of the lid and is longer than the entire flower. The flowers are a maroon color and striped, but are not produced in abundance and only last 1-2 days. I assumed from the shape they must trap insects for pollination, though I do not know how the insects escape to reach a second flower. The flower more or less flops over after a couple of days possibly unintentionally sealing in its guest. One other feature in common with Nepenthes is that the plant is polymorphic producing some leaves shaped like a duck's foot and others more or less oval. Supposedly this species is extinct in the wild but is an easy rampant grower in cultivation. Cliff ################### From: "Demetrio Lamzaki" Date: Thu, 11 Jan 96 03:43:11 UT Subject: Indoor Lighting Systems >Insects do not have pollenating >agendas, they look for food. CPs take advantage of this. As do most other plants pollinated by insects. Of course, you also have plants pollinated by insects that take advantage of an insect's sex drive with no food payoff for the pollen courier given or implied. Then there are the animals (such as spiders and fly larvae) that take advantage of carnivorous plant traps in order to get animal food, not to mention the ones that actually feed on the plants themselves, the more you study plant/animal relationships the more fascinating they become. We live in a very interesting world. >Disclaimer - only attempt the above lighting modifications if you >consider yourself electrically competent. If you crosswire the >lamps and fuse your house (or worse,) I won't be held responsible. > But it works for me. There goes my lawsuit...:-) Thanks Peter and everyone else who was kind enough to give me tips on my question, unfortunately my construction skills are pretty poor so I don't know about building my own system. If finding a bargain pre-fab one falls through as many of you suggest it will I'll most likely turn to a competent local source for building a homemade one. Wiring and mounting light fixtures aren't my strong suits I'm afraid. Excuse me while I hide my head in shame...:-) Regards, Demetrios ################### From: dave evans Date: Wed, 10 Jan 96 22:48 EST Subject: Re: Re: DC CP club (it already exists... > And, in defense (?) of the constantly-bludgeoned U.S. > Botanic Garden, I will re-state that there are internal political > motives in the organization that determine what is > put on display in the Conservatory, and when. Umm... What? Can't politics just not be such a... ah, hemorrhoid? > The last I saw there were over a half-dozen decent Nepenthes > in a rather modern Wardian case complete with timed > lights and automatic misting. Sounds nice, I hope to see this before someone finds it not PC. (I'm not talking of Personal Computers) Dave Evans ################### From: MRMACOPHYL@aol.com Date: Thu, 11 Jan 1996 00:07:40 -0500 Subject: Re: pinguiculas and gnats Good happy pygmy drosera will eat just about anything that wont eat them , i have seen house flies , crane flies and numerous other small beasties fall prey to them.they are esp. good at catching the larger insects when grown in groups and can all work together to retain the insects. Gordon ################### From: writserv@mi.net Date: Thu, 11 Jan 1996 07:03:42 -0400 Subject: re:pinguiculas and gnats >Re: the recent thread on Pinguiculas eating fungus gnats...fungus gnats are >attracted to yellow - a good way to get rid of them is to use those yellow >sticky pads. The big light green leaves of a Pinguicula may well be 'read' >as yellow by these gnats... maybe the leaves reflect some yellow-spectrum >light. My P. moranensis spends the winter subsisting almost completely on >these gnats, and nothing else seems to catch them, not even pygmy drosera. ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^> > > >Scott >Madison WI > > > I have a rather large D. capensis that is "resting", but still very dewy and it is speckled with the things (although less now because the fungus gnats are not so active this time of year). My D. adelae, which is actively growing in a near-freezing window has it's new leaves dotted with five or more of the buggers, each. Sticky pads are considered redundant around here. Rand Nicholson (writserv@mi.net) Canada ################### From: writserv@mi.net Date: Thu, 11 Jan 1996 07:03:46 -0400 Subject: Re: Re: Nepenthes pitcher lid deformation >> >And the D. Capensis just keeps flowering and growing and >> >making more little ones. >> > >> >---Steve >> >> ... and, unless you take a hammer to it, it will continue to do so - on and >> on and on ... > > >A professor at a local college I attended had mentioned a TC >demonstration he had a class do involving D.capensis. They >ground up some plants then spread them on a cookie sheet. >Sprayed on food and hormones, though I doubt the latter was >needed. They got several hundred plants out of the deal! > >Dave E. Forget what I said about the hammer. Apparently that is just another way to propagate D. capensis. Rand Nicholson (writserv@mi.net) Canada ################### From: "Demetrio Lamzaki" Date: Thu, 11 Jan 96 21:28:15 UT Subject: Ultraviolet CP RW>I was the one that mentioned the TC guide. It will be a conversion RW>of a slide-show talk that I gave last year at the SF Bay Area CP club. I was in the audience, I recommend it, it was very informative. S>The big light green leaves of a Pinguicula may well be 'read' S>as yellow by these gnats... maybe the leaves reflect some yellow-S>spectrum light. Has there ever been a major project done on viewing CP using ultra-violet light or other spectrums invisible to humans but seen by insects etc.? I've seen some fascinating documentaries done with this technique regarding flowers and the amazing bull's eyes and runways they draw for insects, could the same be true of CP traps or leaves? DE>Now this raises an interesting point, what do pygmy Drosera eat? DE>I've never seen anything on the few I grew in the past but perhaps DE>they were so unhappy with the conditions they couldn't. My pygmies do in fact catch fungus gnats on their own, as well as springtails. I do supplement their diets with fruitflies though to make sure they have the energy needed for good gemmae production. Regards, Demetrios ################### From: "Finn N. Rasmussen" Date: Fri, 12 Jan 1996 00:54:05 GMT+0100 Subject: Re: Insect trapping Orchids The liquid in the "bath-tub" of Coryanthes flowers does not intoxicate the pollinator - on the contrary, it has a sobering effect on the poor bee that falls into it after being intoxicated by substances it gets by scraping on the base of the "column" (that is the fused stamen and style in an orchid). When the bee leaves the labellum it passes the stigma and anther of the flower. However, it will soon feel a strong demand for more of the Coryanthes-drug ..... Species of the Australian terrestrial orchid genus Pterostylis (Greenhod-Orchid) actually trap pollinating insects by a trap-door mechanism. A good (although old) source of information about the many strange pollination phenomena in Orchidaceae is van der Pijl and Dodson 1966: Orchid flowers, their pollination and evolution, University of Miami Press. Finn R Finn N. Rasmussen Botanical Laboratory, University of Copenhagen Gothersgade 140, DK-1123 Copenhagen K., Denmark Phone: +45 35 32 21 55 Fax: +45 33 13 91 04 Web homepage: http://www.bot.ku.dk Email: FinnR@bot.ku.dk ################### From: Kevin Snively Date: Thu, 11 Jan 1996 18:46:41 -0800 (PST) Subject: Ultraviolet CP >Date: Thu, 11 Jan 1996 13:36:19 -0800 >From: Demetrio Lamzaki >Subject: Ultraviolet CP >Has there ever been a major project done on viewing CP using >ultra-violet light or other spectrums invisible to humans but >seen by insects etc.? Although some people po po the book, "The Carnivorous Plants" by Juniper, Robins, & Joel contains some brief work on this subject. The ground work was probably done by D. M. Joel in the article he published in the CPN "News and Views: Photographing Uv. Patterns of CP" Vol. 16 No. 1 March, 1987. I'd research and write more but I feal icky right now. This will get you started. krs +=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=+ # I.C.P.S. C/O Kevin Snively | Secretary/Treasurer I.C.P.S. # # P.O. Box 1013 | kevin.snively@pstbbs.com # # Everett Wa. 98206-1013 | ksnive@premier1.net # # U.S.A. | Phone 206-252-2911 # +=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=+ ################### From: Jan@pbc-ths1.pci.chemie.uni-tuebingen.de (Jan Schlauer) Date: Fri, 12 Jan 1996 11:19:19 +0100 Subject: Brazilian in Germany - Update Hi again, Some additional data on the meeting (on Sat, 20.1.1996) with Fernando: The meeting will take place at: Tennisklause Am Sportplatz 4 69221 Dossenheim (near Heidelberg) beginning 14:00 (2 p.m.) MEZ For further info, please contact: Dr. Peter Harbarth Frankenweg 18 D-69221 Dossenheim phone: (06221) 869760 C.U. Kind regards Jan ################### From: Martin.Zevenbergen@ALGEM.PT.WAU.NL (martin zevenbergen) Date: Fri, 12 Jan 1996 16:12:26 +0100 (CET) Subject: re:seed germination >>I have some seed from Allen that refuses to germinate >>even with this high GA3 concentration and some others of which only a few >>germinate. So I'm not sure if you will succeed with a lower concentration. >Could you be more specific about the species that do not respond to your >treatment. I am awaiting a batch of seeds from Lowrie and have planned >to experiment with gibberellic acid (1 mg/ml). Do you (or any) know if >the concentration of GA affects the survival of the seedlings. I applied >GA (unknown concentration) to seeds of _U. calycifida_. Both control and >treated seeds germinated (70-80% success), with the germination of the >control seeds a week delayed. Unfortunately the "treated" seedlings died >within a week. Just a coincidence - or are there similar observations? >Hans Martin Hanslin Hans, These species are: Utricularia limosa, Genlisea filliformis, Drosera banksii, Drosera neesii subsp. borealis. Martin ################### From: egriffin@shadow.net (Ed Griffin) Date: Sat, 13 Jan 1996 12:59:45 GMT Subject: How to unsubscribe Sorry to have to ask this here - how do I unsubscribe from this list? Thank you - ################### From: "Demetrio Lamzaki" Date: Sat, 13 Jan 96 19:39:46 UT Subject: Ultraviolet CP KS>The ground work was probably done by D. M. Joel in the article KS>he published in the CPN "News and Views: Photographing Uv. KS>Patterns of CP" Vol. 16 No. 1 March, 1987. KS>I'd research and write more but I feal icky right now. This will KS>get you started. Looks like a very interesting article. I don't have that issue, could you post his findings when you feel better? Get well soon, Demetrios ################### From: Chris Marsden <100620.2156@compuserve.com> Date: 13 Jan 96 17:21:52 EST Subject: Thanks to all Thank you everyone! The response to my article asking for information on TC Hormone concentrations has been OVERWHELMING!!! So much so that I am still reading through my replies and listing them in my "little red book"! Many thanks go to Kevin Snively, R.A. Marin and many many others. I have lots and lots of information now. Just a case of filing it. Mmmh. Oh yes, if anyone wants any of my (admittedly humble) advice on anything to do with CP's, just drop me a line and try to stay awake while reading my reply.You may think I am being over-modest, but even I fall asleep when I read my own writing. Sad, isn't it. Anyway..... Have a good spring. Or summer. Or whatever you're having at the moment. Bye Folks. Toby Marsden 100620,2156@compuserve.com ################### From: gardner@gp.magick.net (Sara A. Gardner) Date: Sat, 13 Jan 96 14:55 PST Subject: CP references Is "Carrnivorous Plants of the World" by Pietropaolo a good general reference? If not, can you suggest a better one for a beginner? Thanks Sara ################### From: tkirsch@centcon.com Date: Sat, 13 Jan 1996 20:04:54 -0800 (PST) Subject: Re: CP digest 589 I didn't get the answer to the question on how to unsubscribe. Did you get the answer? Thanks ################### From: Roger Sieloff ISDH Date: Sun, 14 Jan 1996 11:17:56 -0600 (EST) Subject: Introduction ____ _ _ / ___|_ __ ___ ___| |_(_)_ __ __ _ ___ | | _| '__/ _ \/ _ \ __| | '_ \ / _` / __| | |_| | | | __/ __/ |_| | | | | (_| \__ \ \____|_| \___|\___|\__|_|_| |_|\__, |___/ |___/ __ / _|_ __ ___ _ __ ___ | |_| '__/ _ \| '_ ` _ \ | _| | | (_) | | | | | | |_| |_| \___/|_| |_| |_| ___ _ _ |_ _|_ __ __| (_) __ _ _ __ __ _ | || '_ \ / _` | |/ _` | '_ \ / _` | | || | | | (_| | | (_| | | | | (_| | |___|_| |_|\__,_|_|\__,_|_| |_|\__,_| "Hoosier your favorite State?" Hello to those of you lost in Cyberspace. My name is Roger L. Sieloff. I'm a horticulturalist with a little of everything, a hydroponic garden growing out of the modified power filters in my aquarium setup, a potted vegetable garden I reserruct every May, a forest in Putnam county I'm filling with American Ginseng, a keen interest in the taxonomic status of the genus ESCOBARIA, a yearning to grow the carnivorous Austraian plant that consumes rabbits and a growing collection of Sempervivum species. What I'm really after are a couple interesting web pages pertaining to your particular list. No - this is not SPAM! Well, not really... I just joined your group and this message was mailed by me and not some robot. I'm compiling a bunch of stuff for an upcomming presentation for a gardening club about the Internet. Think of my subscription as a trial membership - I'll be here at least until the end of February. We may find we have something to talk about. Hope to hear from all of you, Roger L. Sieloff sieloff@ideanet.doe.state.in.us ################### From: CBelan9630@aol.com Date: Sun, 14 Jan 1996 13:23:42 -0500 Subject: N. spatulata pollen needed Worry that not everyone got the last message I am posting it again. I have a N. spatulata that will fower in the next 1-2 weeks and I will need some pollen to produce some seed. If anyone has any I would be very interested. Pleas write to cbelang9630@aol.com Christoph ################### From: Gregory Drasher Date: Sun, 14 Jan 1996 20:34:36 -0500 (EST) Subject: Sphagnum I'm interested in obtaining some fine quality live sphagnum, but internet searches have come up empty, with the exception of some catalogue lists. As a recent subscriber to this list, I may have missed any discussion on this topic. So....my question is, where do you veteran growers find the best sources for live sphagnum. Thanks for any reply. Regards, Greg ################### From: Perry Malouf Date: Sun, 14 Jan 1996 21:17:07 -0500 (EST) Subject: Re: Sphagnum Greg wrote: > I'm interested in obtaining some fine quality live sphagnum, but internet > searches have come up empty, with the exception of some catalogue lists. > ....my question is, where do you veteran growers find the > best sources for live sphagnum. Sorry that I'm not going to answer your question. I will give a "tangential reply". New Zealand sphagnum (dried) from OFE Int'l. in Florida will start growing again if placed in the correct conditions: lots of water, lots of light, and warm temperatures. I guess that there are viable spores in the dried sphagnum which start growing after a while. I don't know where you can buy live sphagnum, sorry. Perry Malouf ################### From: Kevin Snively Date: Sun, 14 Jan 1996 20:58:05 -0800 (PST) Subject: UV CP I really had intended NOT writing more on the subject. No I do not have any scans. All the pictures I have seen are in black and white. The pair in the CPN article are of Heliamphora nutans. The one using the UV filter shows the outside of the pitchers quite dark with the inner surface bright. The article refers to another published in ( New Phytol. (1985) 101:585:593 ) by D.M. Joel, B.E. Juniper and A. Dafni which I do not have. Try inter Library loan. The CPN article is very brief; "The work concerns photographing representative species of CP under incident light with and without a UV filter (305-385 nm) on the camera. It was disclosed that most CP (the one Nepenthes was an exception) had UV absorbance and reflective patterns of their leaves and/or glands reminiscent of many patterns in flowers visible in the insect UV spectrum. Thus, the various UV patterns may serve to attract insect prey. In the Heliamphora example shown, UV photography clearly shows that UV absorbance of the external surface and reflectance of the internal surface clearly accentuates the latter in the insect visual light range. Other photos in the paper showing stalked gland leaves (Droseras and Pinguiculas) are even more startling." As to their book "The Carnivorous Plants" I will again direct you back to the inter library loan system if the book is not in your local library. You want Chapter 5. If your budget is that extremely tight then you will get the bulk of the UV related text from pages 74 through 76. You may also wish to read page 241 from the chapter titled "The Role of Phytochemicals in Carnivory" which contains a small bit more. krs +=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=+ # I.C.P.S. C/O Kevin Snively | Secretary/Treasurer I.C.P.S. # # P.O. Box 1013 | kevin.snively@pstbbs.com # # Everett Wa. 98206-1013 | ksnive@premier1.net # # U.S.A. | Phone 206-252-2911 # +=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=+ ################### From: Ivo Koudela Date: Mon, 15 Jan 96 7:43:48 MEZ Subject: Re: CP references Perhaps Slack's "Carnivorous Plants" are the best choice. Ivo ################### From: Robert Beer Date: Mon, 15 Jan 1996 00:47:54 -0800 (PST) Subject: Re: Sphagnum Some of the CP suppliers have it; you really don't need much. If you get a half pound or so, you can just cut it up into tiny pieces and spread it out over your peat and sand mixture and keep in wet, and it will take off. I took just a handful from a natural stand several years ago and had it growing in all my pots ever since. While I don't advocate going out and taking bunches of live sphagnum, a little bit won't hurt anything and you can propagate it very easily. If there is a greenhouse anywhere near you (University there?) that is growing CP, you might be able to get a little start of it from them. Bob On Sun, 14 Jan 1996, Gregory Drasher wrote: > > I'm interested in obtaining some fine quality live sphagnum, but internet > searches have come up empty, with the exception of some catalogue lists. > As a recent subscriber to this list, I may have missed any discussion on > this topic. So....my question is, where do you veteran growers find the > best sources for live sphagnum. Thanks for any reply. > > Regards, > > Greg > ################### From: "J. T. Mullins" Date: Mon, 15 Jan 1996 10:44:03 +0000 (GMT) Subject: Fernando Rivadavia Dear All, After a few hectic days in England and a very enjoyable and thorough talk at the CPS meeting last Saturday, Fernando has asked me to pass on some of his travel details (he's presently having a quick look at some Drosera in the Reading Herbarium). Fernando leaves, by train, for Germany later this morning and his pre-meeting plans are to visit Thomas Carow in Nudlingen first - "Tuesday morning sometime". Jan and Joachim in Tubingen "Wednesday around lunchtime" and Andreas on Friday. He has also asked that I send his thanks in advance for all the invitations and is very much looking forward to meeting everyone. The German meeting (Sat, 20.1.1996: Tennisklause, Am Sportplatz 4, 69221 Dossenheim (near Heidelberg), beginning 14:00 MEZ) is an absolute 'most' for anyone who can attend! Best Wishes, Joe -_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_ Josef Mullins Department of Botany School of Plant Sciences Tel: 01734 875 123 ext. 4090 The University of Reading Fax: 01734 753 676 Whiteknights PO Box 221 Reading RG6 6AS E-mail: J.T.Mullins@Reading.ac.uk Berkshire England _-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_- ################### From: Isao Takai Date: Tue, 16 Jan 1996 01:56:58 +0900 Subject: Wanted In-vitro workers Hi In-vitro workers, I am searching a few In-vitro workers quickly. That I want to you is the following matter. 1) You succeed in the cultivation and the multiple of Heliamphora already with Tissue culture. 2) You are the person who is distributing Heliamphora which was multiplied by you among the friends. I welcome both of the self recommendation and the recommendation. If there are persons who fit conditions, please contact following e-mail address quickly. E-mail: takaicp@sh0.po.iijnet.or.jp Kindest regards from Japan Isao ################### From: ALEXANDER SALOMON Date: Mon, 15 Jan 1996 12:43:03 -0500 (EST) Subject: Re: Plants at the US BOtanical Garden Hello all. I just wanted to add my comments to the messages about the state of the collection at the US Botanical Gardens in Washington, DC. As Perry has said, the collection is neither paltry nor in a sad state. Granted, many of the plants are unavailable for viewing as they are tucked away at the production facilities. There are, however, several very nice specimens on display in a large custom terrarium including Nepenthes maxima, alata, macfarlaneii, eymai, x Ted Payne, X ventrata and others. Contrary to Perry's message, however, there are a few species in the New World Bromeliad room. These are in poorer shape as the humidity is not terribly high due to the opening and closing of the sliding doors and the vents. During the summer, I saw the doors left completely open and the humidity was low. There are a total of three plants in that room including N.burkeii and two hybrids, one of which currently has a an inflorescence. As for the bog garden, it is quite handsome and well tended. There are repesentative species of all the Sarracenia including S.alabamensis, S.jonesii and S.oreophila. Some of these plants are truly fine specimens at that. I think that the current display is quite nice. It is not in fact as nice as the display in Atlanta, but even there, the finest specimens are confined to the production greenhouses. If you want a good reference point with which to compare, try Longwood gardens-which has a fabled history of CP propagation. I think the National Collection at the Botanic Gardens is substantially better, at least in terms of what is on display. At Longwood, there are a few Nepenthes-mostly hybrids in hanging baskets and a few small planters with Sarracenia. There too, the best specimens are behind the scenes. -alex ################### From: Jan@pbc-ths1.pci.chemie.uni-tuebingen.de (Jan Schlauer) Date: Mon, 15 Jan 1996 19:58:23 +0100 Subject: Re:_Pinguicula_ in AF Dear butterworters, Z. ZACEK wrote in CPN 24 (Dec. 1995):117 "No other species of the genus _Pinguicula_ grows in the African continent except for this interesting and rather inconspicuous little butterwort..." (_P.lusitanica_). This is rather wrong because it ignores both, statements by CASPER (Monographie der Gattung _Pinguicula_, 1966) who cites a specimen of _P.vulgaris_ from Er Rif, Morocco (NW Africa), and myself (SCHLAUER, Palmengarten 58:67, 1994) citing the same (from two locations) PLUS a specimen (with picture, l.c.) of _P.grandiflora_ from the same range. Specimens of these are deposited in G (!) and BC (!, if anyone wants to check). My tip (to authors and editors): please read at least the monographs before you start publishing. TNX. Kind regards Jan ################### From: "Liz Fox" Date: Mon, 15 Jan 96 10:27:30 PST Subject: Good cp source I'd like to let other cp growers out there know of a good source - met here on the cp list - Dean Cook. Dean grows a wide variety of cp's and does a great job with them. On two separate occasions I've ordered cp's from him and have been most pleased with the plants I've gotten. His prices are low, his plants are in excellent condition and they arrive here speedily. He's more interested in sharing his interest, it seems, than making a profit, which is very refreshing. And no, he didn't ask me to make this testimonial! He can be reached at SESS58A@prodigy.com Liz Fox Newport - Keikoville - Oregon ################### From: L235@aol.com Date: Mon, 15 Jan 1996 13:56:10 -0500 Subject: DC-Area CP Club For those who may have missed this message due to holidays/snow, etc: About 10 people have expressed interest in forming a U.S. National Capital (DC) area CP club/society, perhaps as an adjunct to the Eastern U.S. CP club (itself part of the ICPS). The purpose, again, would be to allow DC-area CP enthusiasts a chance to get together on a more regular (and easily reachable) basis to trade plants, swap information, etc. I've even volunteered to write/edit an irregular newsletter for the group, highlighting upcoming events, classifieds, growing tips, etc. One advantage of capital-area club, I think (and at least some others agree) is the exposure potential: I'd like one goal to be working to improve displays/access at such resources as the U.S. Botanical Gardens, the National Arboretum, etc. As some have mentioned, the purpose of such a group would not be to compete with other, more established clubs around the nation or planet, it would be to supplement th ose efforts on a local basis. Those who are interested, or who know people without listserv access who might be interested, please drop me a line. Thanks again. (and I promise, I won't bring this up again (for a while)) Jay Lechtman L235@aol.com ################### From: L235@aol.com Date: Mon, 15 Jan 1996 14:19:27 -0500 Subject: CP Botanical Line Art Sources? I'm looking for a decent source of public-domain CP botanical line art, preferably online (of course) .... I've seen some great photos on the web, but .... any suggestions from the assembled experts? Thanks in advance Jay Lechtman L235@aol.com ################### From: Rick Walker Date: Mon, 15 Jan 1996 11:47:59 -0800 Subject: Unsubscribing directions > From: tkirsch@centcon.com > > I didn't get the answer to the question on how to unsubscribe. Did > you get the answer? Send the one-line message: UNSUB CP to the address listserv@opus.hpl.hp.com. Thanks for joining us while you could! -- Rick Walker ################### From: Christopher Creel Date: Mon, 15 Jan 96 13:16:01 MST Subject: Re: CP digest 591Sphagnu & Longwood One used to be able to buy Sphagnum from the Carolina Biological Supply company in North Carolina. I bought from them just last year. I am looking to get more, so if anyone knows there number, post it here! Longwood has some strange practices with their CP. For many years, they had an entire room dedicated to Nepenthes. It was truly beautiful. They had misters going every 15 minutes or so and alot of light. They had a spacious propogation room for Nepenthes where they also groomed show plants. They had misters running continuously in his room. They also treated their other CP well in addition. They had two alcoves dedicated to Sundew, Flytraps, Sarracenia... The area was well tended and very showy. When I was there last year, they had moved the show Nepenthes to these alcoves and the Nepenthes from the propoagtion room to a much smaller room. The alcoves were not very well tended. The Nepenthes had browning pitchers and were not very happy. I am not quite sure what happened. Longwood now treats their CP more like a novelty than a wonderment. Very sad. Chris ################### From: CBelan9630@aol.com Date: Mon, 15 Jan 1996 18:42:03 -0500 Subject: Re: sphagnum In a message dated 96-01-15 13:08:42 EST, you write: >I'm interested in obtaining some fine quality live sphagnum, but internet >searches have come up empty, with the exception of some catalogue lists. >As a recent subscriber to this list, I may have missed any discussion on >this topic. So....my question is, where do you veteran growers find the >best sources for live sphagnum. Thanks for any reply. I don't know of a source of live sphagnum, but Mellingers in Lima, Ohio, has long-fibered Sphagnum. Two cubic feet go for about $20 + s&h. Same here as Perry said, with time it will start growing. Christoph ################### From: "Michael.Chamberland" <23274MJC@MSU.EDU> Date: Mon, 15 Jan 96 19:50 EST Subject: Re: Sphagnum > Some of the CP suppliers have it; you really don't need much. If you get > a half pound or so, you can just cut it up into tiny pieces and spread it > out over your peat and sand mixture and keep in wet, and it will take > off. I took just a handful from a natural stand several years ago and > had it growing in all my pots ever since. While I don't advocate going > out and taking bunches of live sphagnum, a little bit won't hurt anything > and you can propagate it very easily. If there is a greenhouse anywhere > near you (University there?) that is growing CP, you might be able to get > a little start of it from them. I usually don't advocate field collecting, but in the case of Sphagnum I wonder if perhaps, maybe, obtaining some from wild sources might not be so bad. I'm mostly wondering how and where the the commercial sources get theirs. Anyone know? If the casual carnivore grower were to collect small amounts in a judicious manner, might this be less of an impact? I mean for small applications like top-dressing, not to fill a backyard pool. I don't know, perhaps this is not a good suggestion, but I can't imagine the suppliers actually cultivating the stuff. I remember a humorous post a while back regarding someone who ordered live Sphagnum from a somewhat infamous nursery... It arrived months late, in a few plastic garbage bags. the Sphagnum was mixed with twigs, cranberry, etc.! Michael Chamberland ################### From: blymn@awadi.com.au (Brett Lymn) Date: Tue, 16 Jan 1996 12:26:25 +1030 (CST) Subject: Re: Sphagnum According to Michael.Chamberland: > snip..... > >I usually don't advocate field collecting, but in the case of Sphagnum >I wonder if perhaps, maybe, obtaining some from wild sources might not >be so bad. > Actually, I managed to get a fine crop of sphagnum from some dried stuff that I bought ages ago. I wanted it to pot up a nepenthes (I use chopped sphagnum for mine), just chopped up the dried stuff, potted the plant and whacked it in the terrarium. A while later the moss started sprouting, now I have trouble keeping the stuff at bay! -- Brett Lymn, Computer Systems Administrator, AWA Defence Industries =============================================================================== "Upgrading your memory gives you MORE RAM!" - ad in MacWAREHOUSE catalogue. ################### From: Johannes_Marabini@fue.maus.de (Johannes Marabini) Date: Sun, 14 Jan 96 15:36:00 +0200 Subject: Re: Nepenthes soil Hallo Nepenthes grower, in addition to my last mail I want to tell you my experiences with different Nepenthes soils. Since 20 years I am now cultivating Nepenthes in quite different soils. First I used a lot of fresh Sphagnum with the result, that many plants, especially young ones died during winter. Then I used a mix of quarzsand, sphagnum an peat, the same result. Now, a few years ago I changed my method totaly. The lower 1/3 of the pot is filled with polystyrol for drainage, the upper part depends on the size of the plant. For seedlings I use 50% dried (!) clay perls (3mm in diam., in Germany it is called "Seramis"), 30%peat, 10%granit-sand and 10%charcoal. The dried clay has a little basic pH, but the granite is rather acid, so that the pH alltogether is light acid. The advantage of the clay is the good drainage on the one hand and the ability to keep water on the other hand. You can water the plant as much as you want(f.e. in hot summertime), the soil is never too wet. For larger plants I reduce the clay to 30% and use pine-bark. I am fertilizing every 2 weeks in summer to the leafs. I think a good fertilizer is "Miracid", which you cannot buy in Germany. I add 0.1% MgO (8.0% in fluid) and use the half concentration of Miracid. You gan give this also to the pitcher! You should avoid to bring fertilizer to the roots. I think Nepenthes don't like this and the soil will become salty within a short time. A friend of mine is cultivating rather huge N.truncata in a big glass, filled only with living sphagnum! The plant is impressive. Bye Johannes Johannes Marabini Sperlingstr.10 91315 Hoechstadt/Aisch Germany Tel./Fax 49 9193 4866 ################### From: Ron Ruppel Date: Tue, 16 Jan 1996 01:09:31 -0500 Subject: Address change ------ =_NextPart_000_01BAE3B0.5BF5E1E0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit To all who have dealings pending with me either by email or snailmail, please note the address changes. e-mail - rruppel@gate.net s-mail - Ron Ruppel 2634 Mohawk Ave Ft Pierce, FL 34946-1715 USA Thank you, Ron ################### From: "Cyrille Caillie" <86134@novell1.rz.fht-mannheim.de> Date: Tue, 16 Jan 1996 08:53:04 GMT+0100 Subject: winterresistant sarracenias Hy, does enybody has some experience with Sarracenia in cold contitions? It's known that S.purpurea ssp purpurea is absolute winterresistant (-30 C). But for the other there is no exact informations. In most books you can find the information that the temperature must stay over 0 C. I live in germany and have a small artificial bog in my garden. The avarage statistic january temperature is 0 C The min. temperature of the ground in 5cm is 0 C This year I put a two year old S.purpurea ssp venosa in my bog. For since X-mas the max.temperatue was less than 0 C ,the lowest temperature was -10 C. But the plant is still locking fine! Has enybody experience with s.flava, s.rubra or darlingtnonia in this conditions? Has enybody experence with heating an artifical bog? Regards Cyrille ################### From: steiger@iae.unibe.ch (Juerg Steiger) Date: Tue, 16 Jan 1996 09:37:20 +0000 Subject: Re: winterresistant sarracenias Cyrille >Has enybody experence with heating an artifical bog? The easiest way is to cover the sensitive part of the bog in cold nights by white styropor foam boards ('sagex') which must be weighted down by some stone bricks to avoid their removing by wind blasts (thickness at least 5 cm, usual size in Europe 100x50 cm, available in Do-it-yourself centers). As soon as temperature is above the freezing point the boards should be removed to avoid fungus infection. Juerg ___________________________________________________ Dr. Juerg Steiger, Institut fuer Aus-, Weiter- und Fortbildung IAWF University of Bern, Inselspital 37a, CH-3010 Bern, Switzerland Office: +41 (0)31 632 98 87, Home: +41 (0)31 972 19 79 Fax: +41 (0)31 632 98 71, E-mail: steiger@iae.unibe.ch Web: http://www.iawf.unibe.ch/index.htp ################### From: "Demetrio Lamzaki" Date: Mon, 15 Jan 96 20:09:55 UT Subject: Ultraviolet CP KS> It was disclosed that most CP (the one Nepenthes was an KS>exception) had UV absorbance and reflective patterns of their leaves KS>and/or glands reminiscent of many patterns in flowers visible in the KS>insect UV spectrum. Thus, the various UV patterns may serve to KS>attract insect prey. This is a very interesting find and makes perfect sense. Further study might reveal that not only do CP have general UV insignia but some CP might mimic the SPECIFIC UV patterns of certain local flowers in order to fool pollinators, this whole realm is a fascinating aspect of our hobby. GD>So....my question is, where do you veteran growers find the GD>best sources for live sphagnum. Thanks for any reply. Greg, I've never bought or collected live sphagnum, all the live stuff I have has been the result of dead long-fibered sphagnum, and even regular peat, that sprouted live plants on its surface. I just harvest this top layer, and place it in waterlogged pans, it grows pretty rampantly. Regards, Demetrios ################### From: "Michael Hasemann" Date: Tue, 16 Jan 1996 13:13:00 +0200 (EET) Subject: Re: New member from Hungary > > * This message contains the file 'cpnewsgr.doc', which has been > * uuencoded. If you are using Pegasus Mail, then you can use > * the browser's eXtract function to lift the original contents > * out to a file. If you are not using Pegasus Mail, you will > * have to extract the message and uudecode it manually. Hi, could we please stay with plain ascii texts or whatsoever is directly readable. Thanks, Michael -- Michael Hasemann | Technical Research Centre of Finland - Automation | Kaitovayla 1, P.O. Box 13023, 90571 Oulu, Finland jmh@tko.vtt.fi | Fax: +358 81 5512320 Tel: +358 81 5512239 ################### From: Jan@pbc-ths1.pci.chemie.uni-tuebingen.de (Jan Schlauer) Date: Tue, 16 Jan 1996 16:13:44 +0100 Subject: Re: New member from Hungary Hi Michael & Hello Joseph, >could we please stay with plain ascii texts or whatsoever is >directly readable. This is (uudecoded and slightly reformatted) what our new friend wanted to tell us: >Hello everybody, >I joined in this newsgroup with pleasure because here in Hungary >there are not a lot of people who I could talk about >carnivorous plants with. >I live in the eastern part of Hungary at Debrecen. I work on my >Ph.D. thesis at the University of Agricultural Sciences. I have >carnivorous plants in my greenhouse for 6 years. I grow >Sarracenia purpurea, Sarracenia leucophylla, Sarracenia minor, >Sarracenia psittacina, Sarracenia alata, Sarracenia rubra, >Dionea muscipula, Pinguicula moranensis and two Utricularia >species, Nepenthes alata. I have some Drosera species: Drosera >capensis, Drosera burmanni, Drosera spathulata, Drosera >intermedia and Drosera binata var. multifida, Drosera binata >var. binata. >Does anybody imagine how difficult to get carnivorous plants in >this country ? >So many thanks for any little help! > Joseph Joseph, it was rather complicated to have your text extracted, decoded, and reformatted (manually). No, I do *not* use Pegasus Mail. It should be possible to obtain an ASCII (=plain text) output from your MSWORD 4 WINDOWS (TM) program. You can send ASCII attachments with your mailer directly (not uuencoded). I think many subscribers to this list would appreciate such (more machine & user friendly) format. Many thanks for this little help! Kind regards Jan ################### From: Oliver T Massey CFS Date: Tue, 16 Jan 1996 09:23:42 -0500 (EST) Subject: Re:sphagnum > One used to be able to buy Sphagnum from the Carolina Biological > Supply company in North Carolina. I bought from them just last year. > I am looking to get more, so if anyone knows there number, post it > here! > Chris > > I just happen to have an old Carolina catalog at hand. The # may be out of date, but for US customers toll free: 800-334-5551; (NC 800-632-1231) fax 919-584-3399. They list dried sphagnum 2 cu. ft. for $10.74, milled 16-lt. for $7.96. These are old prices and old phone numbers. Hope this helps. Tom in Fl ################### From: John M Ford Date: Tue, 16 Jan 1996 09:38:22 -0500 (EST) Subject: Re: sphagnum Last night I was looking through a flyer from Tropiflora and noticed an ad for live sphagnum - $3 or $4 per 1/4 cubic foot plus shipping. They specialize in bromeliads but occasionally have CP and usually have an interesting variety of other plants. I have ordered from them and found their surface to be quite good. They also have a web site www.gate.net/good-green-fun/index.html that is a fun place to visit. John jford@runet.edu ################### From: Peter Cole Date: Tue, 16 Jan 1996 20:49:01 GMT Subject: Re: winterresistant sarracenias "Cyrille Caillie" <86134@novell1.rz.fht-mannheim.de> writes: > Hy, > does enybody has some experience with Sarracenia in cold contitions? > > It's known that S.purpurea ssp purpurea is absolute winterresistant > (-30 C). But for the other there is no exact informations. In most > books you can find the information that the temperature must stay > over 0 C. I am growing all my Sarras outdoors in South Wales. The lowest night temp. so far was -9C for several consecutive nights at Christmas, and last year -11C. All my Sarras are in open pots in water trays, and when they freeze, they freeze hard. The only ones I protect at all are minor and it's hybrids, which I put in a cold frame on very cold nights, and sometimes wrap the pots in bubblewrap. They still freeze though, and get blasted by gales with quite a windchill. The plants die back a lot, but grow again each year (though they seem to start much later than everyone else's - March or so.) They certainly flower well, which I would put down to the hard winters (they were never so good when I kept some indoors.) This seems OK for - alata, flava, leucophylla, oreophila, purpurea sspp. purpurea, venosa, heterophylla, riplicola and all their hybrids. (I put the leucophylla and oreophila in the middle of the trays, surrounded by the others to protect them from the wind - I still worry a bit as they die back the most, but they keep coming back.) It wouldn't hurt to protect them a bit (except I have no space left under cover,) but it doesn't kill them not to. Darlingtonia loves it this cold - it's summers like last year I have trouble with! > I live in germany and have a small artificial bog in my garden. > The avarage statistic january temperature is 0 C > The min. temperature of the ground in 5cm is 0 C In a bog, they will be considerably protected compared to pots - this should compensate for the slightly lower average temperature you have (it's usually 5C-ish here, but this year is warmer, while December was colder.) If you're worried, horticultural fleece pegged across the bog from December to February should do it (or bubblewrap, but they'll rot if you leave it down permanently.) > This year I put a two year old S.purpurea ssp venosa in my bog. > For since X-mas the max.temperatue was less than 0 C ,the lowest > temperature was -10 C. But the plant is still locking fine! > > Has enybody experience with s.flava, s.rubra or darlingtnonia in this > conditions? flava and Darlingtonia are fully hardy to at least -10C for me. I haven't got rubra, but Xreadii and other hybrids are likewise, so I would expect it to be. I keep Sarra seedlings in a coldframe for their first winter, but after year two, they're on their own. Darlingtonia always dies if I bring it indoors, so I sow, sprout and grow entirely outdoors and exposed. > Has enybody experence with heating an artifical bog? You could use a soil-warming cable if you really want warm soil, or build a mini bog in a polystyrene box. I got a nice one from my local fishmonger - approx 60cm * 100cm *60cm - the kind fresh fish are transported in, though I have seen similar in camping shops as thermos type foodboxes. The walls are 3cm thick polystyrene, and it has a lid that fits snuggly for cold nights. It didn't stay completely frost-free over Christmas, but enough for my P.*Weser to survive so far (though it did freeze solid for a couple of days, to a min -4C when it was -9C outside.) I think this is pushing it a bit far with Mexican Pings - I actually snapped a leaf off like an icicle on Boxing Day, and the rosette is now rather small, but it thawed out OK and it's still green. Happy growing, Peter ################### From: Rogan Roth Date: Wed, 17 Jan 1996 09:17:42 +0200 Subject: Shagnum and Carolina Biological... Hello, and belated season's greetings to all, For those interested; Carolina Biological Supply Company have a new internet site at http://www.carosci.com Their 1996 catalogue lists living Spagnum bog moss (cat. no. K3-15-6740) at $6-45 a portion (4x6") No, I do not work for Carolina Biological, I live in South Africa and would love to get my hands on some of their Sphagnum moss! Best regards Rogan. (ROTH@BOTANY.UNP.AC.ZA) ################### From: Craig S gardner Date: Tue, 16 Jan 1996 22:55:16 -0800 Subject: Introduction Hello my name is Craig Gardner I am a computer tech and grow CP as a hobbie. I got my first plants 20 years ago. They were Venus Fly traps, and not knowing how to properly care for them they died. Over the years I tried again and agian with the same results. Then 2 year's ago I met Peter at California Carnivores I bought 2 plants that day, and have been doing well ever since. I now grow about 32 different species including hybrids. I have a 9'x 9' greenhouse that I am now adding 11 more feet in lenght. I have read that a lot of people seem to be interested in tissue culture, I spoke to the people at Carolina Biological Supply Co. 800-334-5551 they have two tissue culture learnig kits a Drosera Capensis kit at $24 and a Venus Flytrap kit at $54 they were very helpful. I hope this information will be of use to someone Happy Growing ################### From: "Csajbok Jozsef" Date: Wed, 17 Jan 1996 14:03:54 Subject: Sorry! I am sorry ! I am not skilled in using Pegasus mail so my message was accidentally encoded. The default setting is encoding and I did not check that. I hope this and all of my future messagge will be readable for everybody. Thanks Jan for decoding! Regards, Joseph ################### From: "Jeffrey Michael Stein" Date: Wed, 17 Jan 1996 12:04:19 -0500 (EST) Subject: Cold hard CP. I've begun to leave certain species of CP outdoors all winter long in my outdoor bog. The temperatures have been down to well below 0C. The place is situated in a corner protected from direct winds. This also means that the snow fall at the place is limited in comparison to the surroundings. _Sarracenia purpurea ssp purpurea_, _S. pur. ssp. venosa_, _S. (purpurea X 'Wherryi')_ and _Darlingtonia californica_ all still appear okay. They do show some wind drying damage. To combat this, I've moved over a foot of snow on top of these plants. Last winter I left a _D. californica_ outside from late January on. It survived. It just shows that we over estimate the ability of these plant's to survive outside of their native ranges. Jeff ################### From: "/R=HERLVX/R=AM/U=WELCH/L=US EPA/TN=(919) 541-0513/FFN=Jeffrey Welch/"@mr.rtpnc.epa.gov (919) (919) Date: Wed, 17 Jan 1996 13:14:06 -0500 (EST) Subject: Fynbos Hi Folks, Could one of our South African friends give me a brief description of a "Fynbos"? I've read _Drosera capensis_ is found there, but that these areas become extemely dry duing the year. Is _D. capensis_ an annual in these areas? Thanks! Jeff ################### From: Isao Takai Date: Thu, 18 Jan 1996 01:52:15 +0900 Subject: Wanted In-vitro workers again! Hello! I wrote: > Hi In-vitro workers, > I am searching a few In-vitro workers quickly. > That I want to you is the following matter. > 1) You succeed in the cultivation and the multiple of Heliamphora already > with Tissue culture. > 2) You are the person who is distributing Heliamphora which was multiplied > by you among the friends. > I welcome both of the self recommendation and the recommendation. > If there are persons who fit conditions, please contact following e-mail > address quickly. > E-mail: takaicp@sh0.po.iijnet.or.jp The deadline is imminent. Does In-vitro worker who was experienced about the cultivation of Heliamphora exist in the various countries in Pacific rim? It seems that In-vitro workers exist only in Europe. I would very much appreciate receiving e-mail From someone in the various countries in Pacific rim. In any case, I can accept the one last proposal. Kind regards Isao ################### From: dave evans Date: Wed, 17 Jan 96 19:29 EST Subject: Re: Re: N.* coccinea??? > From: Jan@PBC-THS1.PCI.CHEMIE.UNI-TUEBINGEN.DE(Jan Schlauer) > Subject: Re: N.* coccinea??? > > Are you sure you are talking about original clones of these two hybrids? No, but I got them from a grower who keeps good records for his plants, then again who can say what has been mixed up since 1882. > The drawing of N.* coccinea (Gard.Chron.2.ser.18:169, 1882) has rather > little similarity to _N.rafflesiana_, while the (probably male) parent > _N.mirabilis_ reveals himself e.g. in the finely denticulate margin of the > leaf base. Oh, perhaps when both plants, N.* wrigleana and N.* coccinea, are larger I'll be able to compare them better. > The drawing of N.* wrigleyana (Gard.Chron.2.ser.17:143, 1882) is similar > (to the one of N.* coccinea) but the denticulate margin is missing > (instead, the tendril is slightly hairy). I haven't noticed any hair on the tendrils at all. I have two clones of N.* wrigleana and the only difference between them is in their colors. N.* wrigleana cv 'Kosobe' does have darker colors than the other N.* wrigleana but they have the same shape. > >If so, I guess the parentage > >of N.* coccinea would be correct; but it just seems improbable > > What do you mean by "just", exactly? Why do you think it is improbable? Well if they have the same parental mix why would there be any difference at all? Either way you look at it, both hybrids are the result of the same genes. I'm not sure what to call a hybrid resulting from the cross between a species and a hybrid, F2? A better question might be: Do you get a variety of shapes and colors from a single batch of seedlings when making such a cross? I know it is true for some other plants but I'm asking about Nepenthes in particular. Could there be a N.* coccinea out there that looks just like the N.* wrigleana cv. 'Kosobe'? Does anyone know if the sex of a given plant affects pitcher size or shape? Or those of it's offspring? Any work done along these lines at all? Dave Evans ################### From: lardyg7@cti.ecp.fr (Gilles LARDY) Date: Thu, 18 Jan 1996 02:08:55 +0100 (MET) Subject: Fernando Rivadavia Hi everybody, This message is aimed at any person who would see Fernando in the next couple of days. Could you transmit the following message : " Hi Fernando, First sorry for not being here when you phoned me, I thought you would give a phonenumber. Did you enjoy Paris ? I hope your trip in Europe is OK. I wish DIONEE, the french CP association could have organised something for you, but I seem to be the only one dealing with the net around here...Maybe we'll meet next time...But anyway I would be happy to receive some mails from you in the future. See you, Gilles" I thank you in advance, Happy growing. ***************************** Gilles LARDY E_mail : lardyg7@cti.ecp.fr ################### From: Russell Elliott Date: Thu, 18 Jan 1996 13:45:18 +1030 (CST) Subject: HELP! Cephalotus Worries! Hi Everyone! At the moment I am worried about one of my Cephalotus. Most of leaves and pitchers have withered and died, while one tiny rosette has survived in the middle. Can any suggest why this may be happening? I also need to repot my Ceph collection, and was wondering if anyone could give a mixture the find effective. Is it true that re-potting often sets back the plant markedly, and it often dies down after this treatment? Thanks, Russell Elliott relliott@adelaide.DIALix.oz.au (Must be in Caps. Its annoying, but there you go!) ^^^^ ################### From: MRMACOPHYL@aol.com Date: Thu, 18 Jan 1996 08:06:23 -0500 Subject: Re: HELP! Cephalotus Worries! Russell Don't want to worry you. but I lost close to 20 Ceph. plants over a couple months last year, to symptoms similar to yours, the best I can figure is a fungus that attacked the plants. I tried a couple of different treatments and none worked. I would recommend isolating or just plain destroying the affected plant. as for potting mixes Ceph. isn't real picky, I grew mine in a 50/50 mix of peat sand, although they grow equally well i pure moss. mine were all grown outdoors. good luck. Gordon C. Snelling ################### From: Francesco Casali Date: Thu, 18 Jan 1996 15:09:24 +0100 Subject: Where can I buy cp? I am italian and I very interested in growing CP. I bought some CP some years later but now they are dead and I don't know where can I find some other in Italy. I will be very gratefully if someone can help me to find a CP seller in Italy or some other that can send plants in Italy and what kind of CP is better at the beginning. Every other advice will be well accepted. Thank you, Francesco ################### From: Francesco Casali Date: Thu, 18 Jan 1996 15:48:10 +0100 Subject: Where can I buy CP? I am italian and I very interested in growing CP. I bought some CP some years later but now they are dead and I don't know where can I find some other in Italy. I will be very gratefully if someone can help me to find a CP seller in Italy or some other that can send plants in Italy and what kind of CP is better at the beginning. Every other advice will be well accepted. Thank you, Francesco P.S. I send this message twice because the first time I make a mistake with my e-mail address. Sorry. ################### From: Oliver T Massey CFS Date: Thu, 18 Jan 1996 10:14:46 -0500 (EST) Subject: Re: Re: N.* coccinea??? > A > better question might be: Do you get a variety of shapes and colors > from a single batch of seedlings when making such a cross? I know > it is true for some other plants but I'm asking about Nepenthes in > particular. Could there be a N.* coccinea out there that looks just > like the N.* wrigleana cv. 'Kosobe'? > > Does anyone know if the sex of a given plant affects pitcher size > or shape? Or those of it's offspring? Any work done along these > lines at all? > > Dave Evans There are a few issues here. First, given that there are within species variations, simple hybrids produced from somewhat uniquely colored or shaped species may produce hybrids with the same species parentage but different individual characteristics. As an easy example just look at the plethora of varietal names assigned to the Sarracenia and their many resulting hybrids. Second, even given the exact same parents, some differentiation will occur. These differences are likely to be small and may be unnoticed, but occassionally a larger difference will manifest. As I recall, there were two cases, one a Japanese grower and another a few more years back, where plants were grown from one set of seeds to maturity and then separated into several groups with each group labeled with a separate hybrid name. In fact, for awhile N. kosobe was thrown about as somehow distinct from N. wrigleana. I would expect that with increased use of tissue culture for Neps., we will begin to see occasional extraordinary indivi Tom in Fl ################### From: "John Phillips" Date: Thu, 18 Jan 96 08:19:05 CST Subject: RE: HELP! Cephalotus Worries! In Message Wed, 17 Jan 1996 19:26:51 -0800, Russell Elliott writes: >Hi Everyone! > > At the moment I am worried about one of my Cephalotus. Most of > leaves and pitchers have withered and died, while one tiny > rosette has survived in the middle. Can any suggest why this > may be happening? > > I also need to repot my Ceph collection, and was wondering if > anyone could give a mixture the find effective. Is it true that > re-potting often sets back the plant markedly, and it often dies > down after this treatment? > Hi Russell, Cephalotus seems to like a variety of soil mixes. I know people who use a mostly peat mix w/ some sand, while I tend to the other extreme using a perlite/fine orchid bark mix with a little peat resembling what many use for Nepenthes. Ceph's often die back, and later send out new growth from the crown so don't worry too much, though this has never happened to me. If you repot, syringe some distilled water into the pitchers. Ceph's don't like it when you turn them upside down and dump out the contents of their pitchers (I can't blame them for that, I doubt I'd like it either). And I would recommend giving them a high humidity environment. I cut the bottom off plastic 1 gal water jugs and place these over tops of my Ceph pots. And I keep the plastic caps on too. This gives them a very warm (when the sun shines), very humid environment and they need to be watered less. Mine has been growing and blooming for two years now since I started keeping them this way. Hope this helps, John Phillips Email: phillips@library.ucsf.edu Information Services UCSF Health Sciences Library Rm 202 San Francisco, CA 94143-0840 Ph:(415) 476-8383 FAX:(415) 476-7940 ################### From: STORY@seqaxp.bio.caltech.edu Date: Thu, 18 Jan 1996 11:29:01 -0800 (PST) Subject: CP hardiness Just a simple suggestion... Could those who mention that they grow CP outside at least mention where they live? I noticed two references to growing CP outside in the last day, neither of which gave a clue as to the location where these were grown! This might help those who are interested in knowing where their plants might survive. Thanks Randy in L.A. (where we have yet to get below 40 F this winter!) ################### From: L235@aol.com Date: Thu, 18 Jan 1996 14:35:03 -0500 Subject: Re: Cephalotus worries I had the same symptoms on a small C.follicularis after (force) feeding a couple of larger traps on large ants. My guess is that a fungal or bacterial infection spread beyond the plant's ability to digest the prey. Fortunately the attack was limited, but both traps withered and seemed to dry up almost before my eyes (several days). BTW, I just repotted my cephalotus for the first time and found no dying back at all, in fact there was period of rapid trap formation just afterwards (perhaps coincidence). Jay Lechtman L235@aol.com ################### From: "John Phillips" Date: Thu, 18 Jan 96 12:51:49 CST Subject: Re: Cephalotus worries In Message Thu, 18 Jan 1996 11:39:15 -0800, L235@aol.com writes: >I had the same symptoms on a small C.follicularis after (force) feeding a >couple of larger traps on large ants. My guess is that a fungal or bacterial >infection spread beyond the plant's ability to digest the prey. Fortunately >the attack was limited, but both traps withered and seemed to dry up almost >before my eyes (several days). .. I use 1/4 strength orchid fertilizer for my Cephalotus and I feed them with a small syringe. I find mine can be fed regularly in summer, but in winter every 2-3 months suits them fine. they like John Phillips Email: phillips@library.ucsf.edu Information Services UCSF Health Sciences Library Rm 202 San Francisco, CA 94143-0840 Ph:(415) 476-8383 FAX:(415) 476-7940 ################### From: "JANE ROSENTHAL" Date: Thu, 18 Jan 1996 15:57:50 -0500 (EST) Subject: HELP I was looking for information about care (and feeding) of the Venus Fly Trap and I found this on the net ... is there really such a thing as the Carnivorous Plants Newsgroup? Please let me know ... thanks. --------------- Jane Rosenthal, 11101 Pinion Court, North Potomac, MD 20878-2565 USA Home: 301-762-6264 Work: 301-762-6262 WorkFAX: 301-762-6263 e-mail:jane@us.net --------------- ################### From: dave evans Date: Thu, 18 Jan 96 16:36 EST Subject: Re: CP references > Is "Carrnivorous Plants of the World" by Pietropaolo a > good general reference? > If not, can you suggest a better one for a beginner? > Thanks > Sara I haven't really read that book but I looked through it once awhile back. It does have it's CP lore fairly straight. Marcel Luecofle's (Not spelled right) and Gordon Cheer's books are very good but they do suffer from mis-named plants. Dave Evans ################### From: bertozzi.terry@wpo.pi.sa.gov.au Date: Fri, 19 Jan 1996 08:39:59 +0930 Subject: RE: HELP! Cephalotus Worries! Hi all, I've read a few of the replys on this thread, so I thought that I'd throw my 2 bits in. > At the moment I am worried about one of my Cephalotus. Most of > leaves and pitchers have withered and died, while one tiny > rosette has survived in the middle. Can any suggest why this > may be happening? > Russell, this happens to mine occasionally however it is normally the older crowns that die off while the ones that were produced more recently keep growing. I assume from the above that all the young ones have died off and the oldest is still alive. Is this correct? The only fungus I have found to be a problem is powdery mildew. This appears as a white powdery lesion (strangely enough) on the leaves and pitchers. The fungus damages the leaf tissue and if it is cleaned off there will be a discoloration in the area of the lesion normally reddish/yellow. This fungus loves warm, humid places. > I also need to repot my Ceph collection, and was wondering if > anyone could give a mixture the find effective. Is it true that > re-potting often sets back the plant markedly, and it often dies > down after this treatment? > Peat/sand works fine. I think the percentages of each vary according to how I feel on potting day :) Normally I repot because the clump needs splitting. The plants do tend to die right back when repotted and they may be slow to reemerge but I haven't lost too many. I repotted some about two months ago and a couple of them still only have a number of very small leaves around the crown. I'm confident they'll return to their former glory. Cheers Terry ################### From: Sean Barry Date: Thu, 18 Jan 1996 15:46:22 -0800 (PST) Subject: Re: CP references > > Is "Carrnivorous Plants of the World" by Pietropaolo a > > good general reference? > > If not, can you suggest a better one for a beginner? > > Thanks > > Sara I think all of the books I've seen definitely have something to offer, and all have strengths that differ among the books. My personal favorite for simple elegance (and for turning me on to these plants) is Schnell's "Carnivorous Plants of the United States and Canada." It is great for a beginner and has much to offer an expert, although many will disagree that pure sphagnum is the best substratum for all CP. I think Adrian Slack's "Carnivorous Plants" is a classic as well, and there is much of value in the books by Cheers, Lecouffle, and Pietropaolo. Unfortunately Slack's book is long out of print (even though it is still listed in "Books in Print"), and I think Schnell's book might also be. Don't overlook the classic scientific references by Llloyd (Carnivorous Plants) and Darwin (Insectivorous Plants) either. Sean Barry ################### From: dave evans Date: Thu, 18 Jan 96 19:10 EST Subject: Re: Re: HELP! Cephalotus Worries! > Russell > Don't want to worry you. but I lost close to 20 Ceph. plants over a couple > months last year, to symptoms similar to yours, the best I can figure is a > fungus that attacked the plants. I tried a couple of different treatments and > none worked. I would recommend isolating or just plain destroying the > affected plant. as for potting mixes Ceph. isn't real picky, I grew mine in a > 50/50 mix of peat sand, although they grow equally well i pure moss. mine > were all grown outdoors. good luck. > Gordon C. Snelling Hi All, I had this happen to me a couple of times. A healthy plant would just up and die, starting by looking rather weak and then blackening. I think it has to do with the light a given plant is receiving. After I boosted the light levels, either by putting the plants out into the sun or by moving them closer to the light, the sickly plants that hadn't died yet came back and grew much faster. I do beleive I've never seen a Ceph stretching for light so don't look for this as a sign it is not getting enough light. The pitchers will get a nice red outline on them if the plant is getting adequate light. Dave Evans ################### From: Ricell@aol.com Date: Thu, 18 Jan 1996 20:46:11 -0500 Subject: Habitat of N. madagascariensis question Does anyone out there know if N. madagascariensis is considered a highland or a lowland Nepenthes? Pietropaolo's book calls it highland and Lecoufle's book calls it a lowland. On a tangental note, I have read in several sources that Nepenthes hybrids are often more vigorous than species. Being a newbie at Nepnthes in general, I'd be interseted in people's opinions of what their favorite hybids have been in terms of being easy to grow and attractive. Rich Ellis ################### From: MRMACOPHYL@aol.com Date: Thu, 18 Jan 1996 20:48:07 -0500 Subject: Re: HELP! Cephalotus Worries! I to tried the change in light levels on my sick plants, that didn't work either, at least in my case there was something other than lighting that was the problem Gordon ################### From: bb626@scn.org (SCN User) Date: Thu, 18 Jan 1996 19:49:54 -0800 Subject: Re: Habitat of N. madagascariensis question Rich, Favorite Nepenthes hybrids, boy thats all going to depend on the individual. I have a tendacy towards plants that show traits of a flared peristome and good dark color. N. maxima x veitchii, N. maxima x spathulata, N. x rokko x veitchii all show these but the parents are basically the same. Several crosses done with N. ventracosa have turned out to be very unique for example, N. ventracosa x globamaphora with its fat peristome and deep red pitcher along with N. ventracosa x sp.Talang [bongso x carunculata] with its almost round tubby pitchers and red peristome. Several N. bical crosses that were done show very favorable traits. N. bical x rokko3 x thorelli aglow koto that was done by Leo Song had the male parent selected for its shrubby appearance and always flared dark red peristome. Preliminary growth of this plant shows one shrubby striped peristome plant with fangs. There are alot more out there, maybe someday there will be a key for them. Oh if this N. madagascarensis that you asked is the one from TC thats been around I have seen good growth results as a lowlander. Truly, -- Tom Kahl/Nepenthes Club ################### From: Daniel_Tepas@du.maus.de (Daniel Tepas) Date: Wed, 17 Jan 96 21:03:00 GMT Subject: New Member... Re: new Member... again... C>From: "Michael Hasemann" C>could we please stay with plain ascii texts or whatsoever is directly C>readable. And could we please stop quoting thins whole bunch of nonsense? Some of us have to pay for the amount of data transferred... :-( Ciao, Daniel. ################### From: Isao Takai Date: Fri, 19 Jan 1996 20:54:55 +0900 Subject: U.quelchii Hi all, My friend visited two places on Akopan Tepui. In the place which was visited first, my friend found the population which are the same as U.quelchii which are in other Tepuis. In the different place which was visited on the 2nd, my friend found the population of rather large U.quelchi. My friend said to me , "I found large U.quelchii which has a pink flower !". "The size was 1.5 or twice from the one on other Tepui." Fortunately, I could see the specimen which isn't sufficiently dried yet. The specimen was one on the 10th after put in the paper. The color of the flower was still left clearly. It was purple Pink(pink rich) ! And, the width of the labium(?) was wide. This U.quelchii was a very fascinately plant. I don't find whether or not the plant has a scientific value. However, I was convinced that the plant had a horticulture value. In the rumor, similar U.quelchii exists on Auyan tepui. My friend wants to know what one U.quelchii of its rumor is. Does anyone have any information? Kind regards Isao  ################### From: lardyg7@cti.ecp.fr (Gilles LARDY) Date: Fri, 19 Jan 1996 15:02:55 +0100 (MET) Subject: Re: U.quelchii >Hi all, > >My friend visited two places on Akopan Tepui. >In the place which was visited first, my friend found the population >which are the same as U.quelchii which are in other Tepuis. >In the different place which was visited on the 2nd, my friend found >the population of rather large U.quelchi. >My friend said to me , "I found large U.quelchii which has a pink >flower !". "The size was 1.5 or twice from the one on other Tepui." > >Fortunately, I could see the specimen which isn't sufficiently dried yet. >The specimen was one on the 10th after put in the paper. The color of >the flower was still left clearly. It was purple Pink(pink rich) ! >And, the width of the labium(?) was wide. > >This U.quelchii was a very fascinately plant. I don't find whether or >not the plant has a scientific value. >However, I was convinced that the plant had a horticulture value. > Hi Isao, This seems to be very interesting. However my question will concern the culture of U. quelchii. I've got one plant for 3 month, and I take a particular attention towards it. Would you have some advice about it, concerning light, humidity and temperature. I have read in an article that the water on the top of the tepuis is very acid, would this be necessary for a good growth ? Thank you, Gilles ***************************** Gilles LARDY E_mail : lardyg7@cti.ecp.fr ################### From: "Phil Semanchuk" Date: Fri, 19 Jan 96 14:56:01 -0500 Subject: Re: CP references [This message is converted from WPS-PLUS to ASCII] > Unfortunately Slack's book is long out of print > (even though it is still listed in "Books in Print"), > and I think Schnell's book might also be. There was a bookseller in Florida who had copies of Schnell's book for $15 some months ago. I still have his address (at home) and I can dig it up and post it to the list if there is interest. Let me know. Phil (pjs20347@glaxo.com or bonz@nando.net) ################### From: dkpurks@telenet.com (David K. Purks) Date: Fri, 19 Jan 1996 09:53:37 -0500 (EST) Subject: Re: CP references In following a web lead for something else, I ran across an online bookstore at "amazon.com". Their web page has the standard search stuff you would expect of a card catalog and I pull out a list of CP related books that they have listed (included below). They apparently charge $3 + $0.95 per title for shipping. They also have a notification service whereby you can register to receive information on new postings for a given set of search criteria. I have never ordered from these people nor do I know anyone who has, so I have no idea what kind of reputation they have. I just thought the information might be of use to someone here. Here's the CP list I pulled: Carnivorous Plants; Cabisco Video; VHS Tape; $69.99 Carnivorous Plants (A Lerner Natural Science Book; Cynthia Overbeck; Library Binding; $19.95 Carnivorous Plants (A Wisley Handbook; Paul Temple; Paperback; $5.35 Carnivorous Plants (First Books; Nancy J. Nielsen; School & Library Binding; $17.91 The Carnivorous Plants of the World; James Pietropaolo, Patricia Pietropaolo; Hardcover; $31.46 Creatures of Mystery; Janis L., Fortman; Library Binding; $22.83 Insect-Eating Plants; L. Patricia Kite; Library Binding; $15.90 Killer Plants : The Venus Flytrap, Strangler Fig, and Other Predatory Plants; Mycol Doyle, Alison Atwill; Paperback; $5.35 Plants of Prey (Densey Clyne's Small Worlds; Densey Clyne; Paperback; $6.25 Sundew Stranglers : Plants That Eat Insects; Jerome Wexler; Hardcover; $14.39 Tough Terminators : Twelve of the Earth's Most Fascinating Predators (World of Discovery; Sneed B., III Collard; Hardcover; $8.95 1979 Dodge Construction Systems Costs; Adrian Slack; Paperback; $38.80 (Special Order) Carnivorous Plants; Paperback (Special Order) Carnivorous Plants; Library Binding (Special Order) The Carnivorous Plants; B.E., Dr. Juniper, et al; Hardcover; $196.00 (Special Order) Carnivorous Plants; Allen Lowrie; Paperback; $10.01 (Not Yet Published -- On Order) Carnivorous Plants (First Book; Nancy J. Nielsen; Paperback (Publisher Out Of Stock) Carnivorous Plants of Australia; Alan Lowrie; Paperback; $27.50 (Special Order) Carnivorous Plants of Australia; Alan Lowrie; Hardcover; $38.50 (Special Order) Cultivating Carnivorous Plants; Allan A. Swenson; Hardcover; $9.30 (Special Order) Elizabite : Adventures of a Carnivorous Plant; H.A. Rey; Hardcover (Publisher Out Of Stock) Insect-Eating Plants (The Earth's Garden; Jason Cooper; Library Binding; $13.27 (Special Order) Insectivorous Plants; Hardcover (Special Order) Insectivorous Plants (The Works of Charles Darwin, Vol 24; Charles Darwin, et al; Hardcover; $95.00 (Special Order) Meat-Eating Plants (Weird and Wacky Science; Nathan Aaseng; Library Binding; $15.95 (Not Yet Published) Tough Terminators; Hardcover (Special Order) -- David K. Purks, Sr Sys Admin Phone:(703) 689-5729 Computer & Network Support FAX: (703) 689-7077 Alcatel Data Networks, M/S B0218 Inet: dkpurks@telenet.com 12502 Sunrise Valley Drive Reston, VA 22096, USA ################### From: ritter@floyd.HQ.ileaf.com (Janice Ritter x5444) Date: Fri, 19 Jan 1996 10:08:11 -0500 Subject: Re: HELP! VFT Worries! Hi guys - need some help. I set up an aquarium under some shop lights this year for my cps and orchids. My most beautiful VFT sits very close to the lights, in water. I haven't had it a year yet, so blew off letting it go dormant this year (planning for dormancy spots next year), so it's inside, temps between 55 and 65. This a.m., I noticed black spots on the VFT's leaves and traps. Could this be fungus? How do I combat this? The humidity in the aquarium goes between 30-50%. Thanks! -- Janice Ritter ritter@ileaf.com Boston, MA ################### From: "Carl Strohmenger (HSC)" Date: Fri, 19 Jan 1996 11:42:57 -0500 (EST) Subject: Re: CP references The book dealer is Walter G. Winter and the email address is: wgwinter@digital.net I purchased a copy. It was in perfect condition and arrived promptly after I sent off the payment for it. W. G. Winter carries many books on many subjects. Ask for a current listing. - Carl On Fri, 19 Jan 1996, Phil Semanchuk wrote: > > Unfortunately Slack's book is long out of print > > (even though it is still listed in "Books in Print"), > > and I think Schnell's book might also be. > > There was a bookseller in Florida who had copies of Schnell's > book for $15 some months ago. ################### From: CBelan9630@aol.com Date: Fri, 19 Jan 1996 19:13:53 -0500 Subject: U. quelchii In a message dated 96-01-19 09:36:51 EST, you write: >This seems to be very interesting. However my question will concern the >culture of U. quelchii. I've got one plant for 3 month, and I take a >particular attention towards it. Would you have some advice about it, >concerning light, humidity and temperature. I have read in an article that >the water on the top of the tepuis is very acid, would this be necessary for >a good growth ? I have found this plant to be a very difficult grower. I have noticed that it likes cool temperatures. My plant after having been dormant for the past six monthes finally started growing again and is putting out new leaves and stolons. I grow mine in a thin layer of live sphagnum with peat underneath. The problem that I have not yet solved is that peat and sphagnum get too wet and break down. It (at least mine) does not like it wet and it would be advisable to keep it wet to the touch. If your plant goes dormant, which is almost inevitable during the summer, keep it dryer than normal. Otherwise it will rot. If you keep it cool, with temps allowing to drop to around 10-13 deg C. at night you should be fine. I wrote an article for CPN some time ago which I put onto my web page which can be accessed with any browser. Here is the address ftp://users.aol.com/cbelan9630/carnivor/carnivor.html Regards, Christoph ################### From: gardner@gp.magick.net (Sara A. Gardner) Date: Fri, 19 Jan 96 17:48 PST Subject: CP Newcomer Thank you to all who have answered my questions and offered (and sent) plants and seed. I am now a bona fide CPer! I made the most interesting discovery today in the most amazing way. I was scanning rec.pets.cats and someone had a posting offering a "wonderful" cat page, so, of course, I clicked. Among the other things available when I got there was a topic "CP". Of course I clicked on that. Wish I had known about this site earlier! I assume you oldtimers know about it, for newbies it is http//randomaccess.unm.edu//www/cp/cp archive.html assuming that I got all the //and .. and _ in the right place. Sara ################### From: Isao Takai Date: Sat, 20 Jan 1996 12:52:03 +0900 Subject: RE:RE:U.quelchii Dear Gilles, Dear Christoph, I don't find where you live. In the summer in Japan, it is very hot. Cp-growers in Japan don't always win good result in the growing of cool loving cp. Therefore, I don't find whether or not my experience is useful. I am growing U.quelchii in two ways. One: The Coca Cola refrigerator (It is placed in the supermarket.). I bought it which is secondhand. I put some electric products to the refrigerator. By it, A refrigerator is managed as follows. The fluorescence light lights up from 7 a.m. to 6 p.m.. The temperature is kept by 25 degrees of centigrades from 7 a.m. until 6 p.m.. Then, it is kept at 12 degrees of centigrades during night. I am not always being satisfied about the result. Because, the leaf is very soft and it is thin. Another one is :. The forerunner of this equipment was introduced by our esteemed colleague Jeff-san(Dr.Jeff Welch). It was introduced as the growing methods of my Darlingtoina. I made a box with semitransparent plastic. The box is divided into two pieces of the upper and lower space with the board of styrene(polystyrene foam). I opened some holes to the board of styrene. I hung cray pots on the hole. The cray pots is spindly. In other words, the cray pots are in the lower space . The plants are in the upper space . I let air in the lower space from outside. It is done by the small ventilator. Your personal computer has a similar ventilator probably. Air goes around the cray pots. Water vaporizes from the cray pots surface. It cools both of air and the cray pots. It cools the underground part of the plants. Moreover, the humidity of air increases. The air which went through the space like the labyrinth moves to the upper space. The air cools the plant which is in the upper space. Then, the air is disposed of from the small window which is in the upper part of the box outside. However, the humidity of the air is insufficient. I spay water from the top of the box to the plants by the timer control. In the summer in Japan last year, the record hotness of it was done. In my small green house, it became equal to or more than 45 degrees of centigrades in the daytime. It became equal to or more than 35 degrees of centigrades probably in my small box, too. Because I was busy last year, I don't have confidence about this thing. This box doesn't have ability like the refrigerator. However, I was extremely satisfied with the result. U. quelchii wasn't dormant. Then, the plant always renews a leaf. The leaf is a healthy color like the time when it is in naitive habitat. Moreover, it has thickness. The water reservoir root is healthy,too. The defect is :. Black cyanophytes(?) which is peculiar to Tepui propagates in the box. It seems Extremely filthy. about acid water. According to my friend U quelchii lives in the surface of rock and the tree. There is the crack of rock and so on in the skin of the tree in the lichen which the tree had. They don't absorb the water of the acidity of Tepui. They absorb rainwater. In Japan, we can use water supply water just as it is to cp. We aren't troubled by the securing of water. Kind regards from Japan Isao  ################### From: Chris Marsden <100620.2156@compuserve.com> Date: 20 Jan 96 05:31:58 EST Subject: Re: Nepenthes Madagascariensis Dear All, I am not sure whether people should grow N. Madagascariensis as a highland or Lowland (I am about to start growing it as a highland) but it is DEFINITELY and without doubt officially classed as highland. I know people who grow it as highland and they do OK. However, there seems to be confusion as Paul Gardner at Marston Exotics classes it as a Lowland in his catalogue also. With regard to many requests to me asking for a summary of Tissue Culture and media to be posted onto the Discussion Group, I intend to put one together (although strictly other peoples experience; I don't TC myself. Yet.) but the contents will have to be untested by me..... If thats OK. I'll try to do it quickly, but I have so much to do it could be a month or so...... Kind Regards and don't kill too many Cephalotus...... Toby Marsden PS. Sorry about the last quote. I didn't mean to be nasty. I have 2 Cephalotus, one in my slightly heated greenhouse that falls below -2 C in winter and one inside on a non-sunny windowsill which I really should get round to moving. The 1st one I water from the top ( It hasn't died yet..... ) and the second one I don't water at all. Don't ask. The 1st one's fine with 2" pitchers and is growing, the 2nd ones pitchers are 2mm in size and decreasing..... ################### From: uzsb09@ibm.rhrz.uni-bonn.de (Jens Rotthauwe) Date: Sat, 20 Jan 1996 04:06:25 -0800 Subject: Catopsis berteroniana Hi ! I am new to this interesting list and this is my first question: I have a =B4catopsis berteroniana=B4 which has been producing buds for some= time and now looks as if it was going to flower soon. Is there anything I have to pay attention to ? Is it going to produce seeds - and if it does - what do I do with them ? Some bromeliaceae are said to die after flowering. Is this true for catopsis ? I would also like to know what the best ways of propagating catopsis and brocchinia are. Any advice ? I am looking forward to your answers. =20 Jens =20 ---------------- ---------------------------- Jens Rotthauwe Tel.:0228-642161 Im Erlengrund 21 e-mail: 53347 Alfter uzsb09@ibm.rhrz.uni-bonn.de GERMANY =20 =20 ################### From: Weston Bielby Date: Sat, 20 Jan 1996 08:13:23 -0800 Subject: Re: CP digest 596 On Sat, Jan 20, 1996 6:37:00 AM at cp@opus.hpl.hp.com wrote: >In following a web lead for something else, I ran across an online > bookstore at "amazon.com"... > > I have never ordered from these people nor do I know anyone who has, > so I have no idea what kind of reputation they have. I just thought > the information might be of use to someone here. Just a follow-up. I have ordered several books from amazon (on a wide range of subjects), and they seem to be very good and reliable. Only problem with their list is that many of the books are children's books, and several of the "Special Order" titles came back as unavailable, or with messages that they could not locate the publishers. I would like very much to lay my hands on copies of the two Slack books (not Dodge Construction Systems...), which I have been searching for for over a year. If any group members run across or have extra copies, please email me the details. Thanks! Weston weston@hooked.com ################### From: lardyg7@cti.ecp.fr (Gilles LARDY) Date: Sat, 20 Jan 1996 17:21:39 +0100 (MET) Subject: Compost for U.quelchii Dear Isao, dear Christoph, dear All, Thank you for you good advice. Now it is my turn. When I bought my plant, I've had a long discussion whith Jean-Jacques LABAT (Nature et Paysages), so as to know how to grow it. He explained me that his plants had half sunlight, and the place where they were was well aerated and about 75% humidity. But the most interesting is the soil he uses. In fact he has just changed his way of growing it. Before he was using a peat/sphagnum mix, but he observed that just as in nature, the stolons did not want to go deeper than one or two centimeters in the soil. He also seemed to have the same problem as you, Christoph, because his soil was always too wet. So he decided to completely change the soil. Now he fills his pot with crumpled geotextile (I don't know if the name is the same in english, this is the french name for horticultural tissue used to separate different layers of soil). On the top of this he deposes an horizontal layer of geotextile and then 1 or two centimeters of compost made of peat, sphagnum and vermiculite (anyway a very light compost). This way the water is absorbed by capillarity by the textile, and the thin layer of compost, where the plant grows has just as much water as needed, so nomore rot problems at all... My plant seems to be healthy, although it keeps on giving small (1 cm long) green prostrated leaves. Hope this will help you, Gilles ***************************** Gilles LARDY E_mail : lardyg7@cti.ecp.fr ################### From: CBelan9630@aol.com Date: Sat, 20 Jan 1996 13:55:02 -0500 Subject: Re: U. quelchii In a message dated 96-01-20 09:37:30 EST, Isao writes: >I don't find where you live. >In the summer in Japan, it is very hot. Cp-growers in Japan don't >always win good result in the growing of cool loving cp. >Therefore, I don't find whether or not my experience is useful. I live in Brookline, Mass, near Boston. >I am growing U.quelchii in two ways. >One: >The Coca Cola refrigerator (It is placed in the supermarket.). >I bought it which is secondhand. I put some electric products to the >refrigerator. >By it, A refrigerator is managed as follows. >The fluorescence light lights up from 7 a.m. to 6 p.m.. >The temperature is kept by 25 degrees of centigrades from 7 a.m. until >6 p.m.. Then, it is kept at 12 degrees of centigrades during night. >I am not always being satisfied about the result. >Because, the leaf is very soft and it is thin. This is about how I am able to grow them from Oct-April. Other times of the year it is pretty warm. My leaves are thin too. I think (my hypothesis) since these plants grow at very high altitudes the UV radiation is considerably higher than mine in the tank. I am wondering if supplying this would make the plants more robust? Does anyone know if this has been tried. I wonder if Nepenthes grow under lights might not benefit from this? ################### From: Clarke Brunt Date: Thu, 18 Jan 1996 22:12:01 +0000 Subject: Re: HELP! Cephalotus Worries! On 17 Jan 96 at 19:26, Russell Elliott wrote: > At the moment I am worried about one of my Cephalotus. Most of > leaves and pitchers have withered and died, while one tiny > rosette has survived in the middle. Can any suggest why this > may be happening? > > I also need to repot my Ceph collection, and was wondering if > anyone could give a mixture the find effective. Is it true that > re-potting often sets back the plant markedly, and it often dies > down after this treatment? I didn't have any problems when I repotted my two plants - I tried not to disturb them too much. I just use an ordinary peat/sand mix. Slack's book says they sometimes die down, but can still come up from the roots. I've heard some people advise that you top up the pitchers with water after repotting has emptied them out - they suggest that it's actually the emptying of the pitchers which can cause problems. -- Clarke Brunt (clarke@brunt.demon.co.uk) ################### From: Chris Marsden <100620.2156@compuserve.com> Date: 21 Jan 96 05:35:13 EST Subject: Re: "Plecki?" catfish and CP's Hi all! I am writing this Email the second time because my Compuserve e-mail spell-checker just deleted my whole Email. I am hoping to keep some cold water catfish with either Aldrovanda or aquatic Utrics. How do I set my tank up and what sort of gravel/compost should I put at the bottom, what sort of pH value should I have??? I believe Aldrovanda and Utrics can be over wintered at 1 or 2 C so eliminating the need for a water heater. Thank you everybody for all you help (in anticipation!) and hear from you again soon. Maybe. If my E-mailer still works. Toby Marsden ################### From: Chris Marsden <100620.2156@compuserve.com> Date: 21 Jan 96 05:35:15 EST Subject: Re: Catopsis berteroniana Hi All. In response to Jen's article asking for information about Catopsis, I have absolutely no experience about either Catopsis or Brocchinia. However, knowing people that do, I have picked up on several points - Bromeliads can be 'difficult' about setting seed, i.e. it is hard to pollinate them and they do not always set viable seed. However, please have a go. I would advise sowing them on a normal CP soil mix (1:1 peat + sand) or something similar and transplanting them to normal growing conditions after they have sprouted. You could, however, try Live Sphagnum moss or an Orchid bark mixture. In all cases, I advise getting a GOOD book on Bromeliad reproduction. What I do know for sure is that both Brocchinia and Catopsis produce 'pups' which are just baby plants produced on runners from the base of the plant, just like a spider plant, really. If you pot these pups up in your normal Catopsis conditions, these will grow to full size in less than 2 years. Catopsis also dies after flowering and producing pups (the pups are usually produced after flowering). The buds that you see are probably flowers if they are produced in the centre of the rosette and are probably pups if they are produced at the base of the plant. I hope all this is of some use to you (don't quote me as I can't be totally sure about it all). Incidentally, I am desperately looking for spare Catopsis seeds/plants and Aldrovanda seeds/plants. I wouldn't mind if anyone had some spare utricularia which I could buy either....... I wouldn't mind swapping for some small Sarracenia Flava heavily veined or normal Flava........ I would prefer it if you were in Europe (ideally in the UK!) as I live in Herefordshire in England. So long, Toby Marsden ################### From: Chris Marsden <100620.2156@compuserve.com> Date: 21 Jan 96 08:44:23 EST Subject: Re: Silverhill Seeds Hello everyone. Sorry that this is my 3rd message today its just that I wondered if anyone knew anything about silverhill seeds of South Africa? In the CP. MASTERLIST many plants are shown to be sold by Silverhill. Has anyone any experience of ordering or does anyone know whether they have an internet address? Also, does anyone have any experience of the viability statistics of seeds from here? Thank you. I won't bother you all again today, Toby Marsden ################### From: Andrew Marshall Date: Sun, 21 Jan 1996 09:55:48 -0800 (PST) Subject: Re: CP digest 597 Hello all, I have two large Catopsis that have never flowered or produced pups. I grow them in small pots filled with a coarse bark based Nepenthes mix. They are watered through the centre tubes and the old leaves removed as needed. I do not feed them in any way. When I got these plants they were about three inches with no root structures at all. I find that in 80% sun they are fast growers, mine reaching 12 inches tall and at least that accross. I also have two Brocchinia reducta that I got as small pups from Allen Lowrie a few years ago. They are in a peat/sand mix and treated as the Catopsis. Last year I noticed that one is producing two pups. Neither it nor the other have flowered yet. I am going to keep the pups in case as I heard correctly that they die after producing pups. I have no experience with flower pollination, I leave that part to the person who produced the Catopsis seed I tried a couple of years ago. I obtained it from the icps seed bank. Sowing it on a similar bark based mix as the adults I have and in similar conditions the seed was very slow to germinate. If I remember, longer then 4 months. It was a good germination with more then 25 seedlings being sprouted, but there followed a die off. They are, unlike the pups I got very slow to do anything except to die. I ended up giving the last half dozen to Kevin Snively as he has better luck with that sort of thing. I will ask him one of these days what happened to them. As to Catopsis growing wild in the US. It is my understanding that hurricane Andrew saw to them quite efficiantly. I have it on good authority that the only colony there was was totally obliterated. I have since been unable to obtain any Catopsis. They are not a CITES plant, can anyone in the rest of the plants home range provide any? Also does anyone know where I can obtain Brocchinea? Good Growing Andrew ################### From: Rick Walker Date: Sun, 21 Jan 1996 19:48:33 -0800 Subject: Slide Shows on CP WEB page The first set of CP Slide Shows is now on the WEB. Connect to http://www.hpl.hp.com/bot/cp_home and follow the button to "Slide Shows". The first show is a whirl-wind tour of "Pings: care and cultivation", and the second is a Tissue culture tutorial. The TC talk is still not quite finished, as I have a lot more text to type in, but it is useable now in outline format. Let me know what you think. -- Rick Walker PS: Coming REAL SOON NOW will be 210 new Ping Photos by Juerg Steiger! ################### From: CK Lee Date: Mon, 22 Jan 1996 00:36:26 -0800 Subject: Advise Hello to anyone out there, I have been growing VFT's for several years now with success but everytime my VFT had flowered and formed seeds, I have never successfully germinate the seeds. Also, not all the flowers would form seeds. I would usually pollinate them with a Q-tip and only one or two of the flowers would form seeds. I had placed the seeds on damp peat moss. Can anyone advise as to how to get those seeds to germinate? (lighting condition, humidity, temp, growing medium) Anyways, since I've been growing VFT for several years and I'm getting a little bored, I recently got a few Droseras. I have no idea what type of Drosera but when I bought them, they had large droplets on the hairs of the leaves. After I placed them into my terranium, all the droplets disappeared. The humidity in my terranium was 50-60% and I had repotted them into new pots. The plant continues to sprout new leaves but only small minute droplets form on the leaves. Can anybody give me any advise on how to get them to form large droplets again? One more thing, I am starting to look into increasing my collection of CP but I am unable to find any Canadian CP/supply distributors. If anybody are or know of anyone who sells CP/supplies that lives in the Vancouver, B.C., Canada area, please leave me a message. Thanks CKLEE @..@ 0--0 Reebit. Reebit. (----) (----) ( >__< ) _( |__| )_ StereoType Music AG ^^ ~~ ^^ ^^` ~~ `^^ Vancouver, B.C., Canada Frog and Toad "To Infinity and Beyond!" ################### From: John Kneen Date: Mon, 22 Jan 1996 10:50:01 +0200 Subject: Re: Silverhill Seeds -Reply Chris Silverhill Seeds does not have an internet address, but they do have fax/phone. I have found that their selection is somewhat limited, so it is worth your while to get an updated list from them directly. As for viability: this year, I ordered a selection of about 10 different CP seed types, and only one has not germinated in 5 months. (an unknown drossera - "from the Chiminimane Mountains in Zimbabwe"). If you need further/expanded details, contact me. Regards, John Kneen jkneen@aerotek.csir.co.za ################### From: Jan@pbc-ths1.pci.chemie.uni-tuebingen.de (Jan Schlauer) Date: Mon, 22 Jan 1996 11:28:42 +0100 Subject: Re: U.quelchii Dear Isao-san, >This U.quelchii was a very fascinately plant. I don't find whether or >not the plant has a scientific value. >However, I was convinced that the plant had a horticulture value. > >In the rumor, similar U.quelchii exists on Auyan tepui. >My friend wants to know what one U.quelchii of its rumor is. >Does anyone have any information? Most specimens of _U.quelchii_ have scarlet red flowers. I have seen pictures of almost orange flowers. So there may be some variation in flower colour. Is there any other difference (in your plant) besides size and flower colour? You should examine "leaf" size and texture, number of scales on scape, shape of bracts and bracteoles, pollen colour, seed shape, etc. The only other known species of _Utricularia_ related and similar to _U.quelchii_ is _U.campbelliana_ (said to be a more delicate plant, differing in the number of scales on the peduncle and the width of bracts and bracteoles). However, if the differences you mentioned were found in several geographically separated populations, and especially if they are non-overlapping (with _U.quelchii_ s.str.) and constant even in cultivation, your plant could perhaps be considered a new species (_U.asplundii_ is also not very much more than a large _U.jamesoniana_). Do you have living specimens of the plant? Do in any case not forget to preserve specimens (preferably in liquid) of it, so it may eventually be described validly! Kind regards Jan ################### From: Steve Baker Date: Mon, 22 Jan 96 11:03:49 -0500 (EST) Subject: March 96 CPN submits Due ALL, If you wish to submit something for the March issue of CPN it is due by Feb 1. Please note if your submit must go thur one of the two Co- editors for techincal editing. Don Schnell Rt. 1, Box 145C Pulaski, VA 24301 or Joe Mazrimas 329 Helen Way Livermore, CA 94550 Thanks for your help in this matter. Steve Baker CPN Publishing Editor ################### From: matthias.stoll@student.uni-tuebingen.de (Matthias Stoll) Date: Mon, 22 Jan 1996 18:28:33 +0000 Subject: just to introduce myself... I=B4m a 25-year-old graduate student of biology at the University of Tuebingen, Germany. My subjects are systematic of plants and ecological botany. Thus I=B4m interested in the ecology and biology of carnivorous plants. In my thesis I will describe some remote areals of Drosera rotundifolia and D. anglica in the northern Black Forest, Germany. I`m looking forward to interesting discussions! Matthias Stoll :-) ################### From: acs@primenet.com (Alan C. Skousen) Date: Mon, 22 Jan 1996 12:35:56 -0700 (MST) Subject: cp and millipedes I bought some CPs from a local nursery and they came complete with a stock of millipedes. No doubt the nursery is doing this to generate insecticide sales. Any suggestions as to the consequences of having a millipede infestation and what might be done about it? ACS ################### From: "/R=HERLVX/R=AM/U=WELCH/L=US EPA/TN=(919) 541-0513/FFN=Jeffrey Welch/"@mr.rtpnc.epa.gov (919) (919) Date: Mon, 22 Jan 1996 15:16:51 -0500 (EST) Subject: RE: cp and millipedes We have millipedes as part of the local fauna and its impossible to completely get rid of them. The only problems I've had are with very small seedlings which they may eat or uproot. Our millipedes are small, 4 cm long and 0.3 cm wide at the largest. Larger ones could cause greater problems. They make good food for pitcher plants, but other traps usually can't hold them. If you want to eliminate them, submerge your pots completely in water for about 24 hours. Most will drown or leave. Last summer we had about 12.5 cm of rain in 12 hours. Millipedes by the 10,000's went to high ground...in the greenhouse. Hope this helps. Jeff ################### From: Sebastian Vieira Date: Mon, 22 Jan 1996 15:39:01 -0500 (SAT) Subject: Nepenthes seed? Hello CP'ers! I would like to know if someone out-there has Nepenthes seeds or Tissue-culture Flasks. Thanks in advance for any help. Sebastian Vieira U. svieira@janua.upb.edu.co A.A. 1058 Medellin, Colombia ################### From: JRoegner@aol.com Date: Mon, 22 Jan 1996 18:27:26 -0500 Subject: Diatomaceous Earth Fellow CP'ers ! I was talking to an commercial African violet grower and I found out that they put diatomaceous earth in the soil to prevent mites. Since the D. earth is composed of silica there should be no adverse affect on your acid loving CP's. A while back Someone had reported that they were experimenting with 100% D. earth as a soil, what ever happened with that ? Thanks ! Joe Roegner ################### From: dave evans Date: Mon, 22 Jan 96 18:26 EST Subject: Re: cp and millipedes > I bought some CPs from a local nursery and they came > complete with a stock of millipedes. No doubt the nursery > is doing this to generate insecticide sales. Any suggestions > as to the consequences of having a millipede infestation > and what might be done about it? I'm pretty sure they eat roots. Repotting and washing the soil away from the roots will get rid of them. What CP did you get? Dave Evans ################### From: Gilles Lardy Date: Tue, 23 Jan 1996 01:31:59 +0100 (MET) Subject: China Hi everybody, First of all thank you for your good advice about cultivation of U. quelchii. I have planned to go in China next summer, and more especially in Beijing. Would anyone have information on the chinese CPs ? Is there any CP collection in China ? Last summer I went to Hong Kong for a two months training period. As you can imagine, I tried my best to find CPs in the country... To have some information, I went to the Herbarium in Hongkong Park, and I saw that they had just opened a new room with a CP collection. And you know what, the only CPs they had still had the "Produced in Holland" label..! It's a shame, they have a wonderful climate for tropical CPs, have several local species, and the only thing they have to show us is these tiny imported CP cuttings. So I went to the library, so as to find serious informations on the local CPs, and I found out that there were D. spathulata, D. burmanii, some Utricularia species, and Nepenthes mirabilis, which was said to be "common". Unfortunately I did not find any of those plants in the wild. I there any member of the listserv living in HK ? I would like to have some information on their location, in case I would go back there for some days after China ? Thank you in advance, Gilles. ***************************** Gilles LARDY E_mail : lardyg7@cti.ecp.fr ################### From: blymn@awadi.com.au (Brett Lymn) Date: Tue, 23 Jan 1996 16:52:16 +1030 (CST) Subject: Re: cp and millipedes According to 919: > stuff about millipedes snipped to conserve electrons.... >They make good food for pitcher plants, but other traps usually can't hold >them. When I lived in a millipede prone area I found that if a I got a few millipedes in a sarra trap then the trap would go brown around the position the millipedes were sitting. I just put it down to the millipedes producing some chemical nasty that was causing the localised die off. I think the millipedes we had were the Argentinian ones. -- Brett Lymn, Computer Systems Administrator, AWA Defence Industries =============================================================================== "Upgrading your memory gives you MORE RAM!" - ad in MacWAREHOUSE catalogue. ################### From: Jan@pbc-ths1.pci.chemie.uni-tuebingen.de (Jan Schlauer) Date: Tue, 23 Jan 1996 10:46:43 +0100 Subject: Re: just to introduce myself... Dear Matthias, This is from around the corner (Physiologisch-chemisches Inst., Uni Tuebingen). >In my thesis I will describe some remote areals of Drosera >rotundifolia and D. anglica in the northern Black Forest, Germany. So you will at most describe some remote (not too remote, however) *populations within* the much more expanded (nearly circumboreal) area of distribution ("Areal") of these species. Comparison with e.g. MEUSEL & al. "Vergleichende Chorologie der zentraleuropaeischen Flora" (We have a copy of it in the library in Wilhelmstrasse, I urgently recommend to consult it!) will show that "northern Black Forest, Germany" lies quite in the heart of the range of these species. Kind regards Jan ################### From: "Michael Hasemann" Date: Tue, 23 Jan 1996 11:19:33 +0200 (EET) Subject: Re: just to introduce myself... > > I=B4m a 25-year-old graduate student of biology at the University of > Tuebingen, Germany. My subjects are systematic of plants and ecological > botany. Thus I=B4m interested in the ecology and biology of carnivorous > plants. In my thesis I will describe some remote areals of Drosera > rotundifolia and D. anglica in the northern Black Forest, Germany. > I`m looking forward to interesting discussions! Welcome and first direct question: What makes your thesis topic so interesting? Anything special about those Drosera growing there (aside from the mere fact of growing there)? Curious, ..Michael > Matthias Stoll :-) > > -- Michael Hasemann | Technical Research Centre of Finland - Automation | Kaitovayla 1, P.O. Box 13023, 90571 Oulu, Finland jmh@tko.vtt.fi | Fax: +358 81 5512320 Tel: +358 81 5512239 ################### From: Isao Takai Date: Tue, 23 Jan 1996 20:30:48 +0900 Subject: Re: U.quelchii Dear Jan-san, Domo Arigato! Cp new year meeting in Japan was opened on Sunday. After that, I saw video tape of my friend (Cliff climber took photograph instead of the friend). In the sound of video tape, they are crying for "Large !!!, U.quelchii ROSEA!!!". > Most specimens of _U.quelchii_ have scarlet red flowers. I have seen > pictures of almost orange flowers. So there may be some variation in flower > colour. "almost orange flowers!!!" I am extremely excited. Flower variation is extremely interesting. > Is there any other difference (in your plant) besides size and flower colour? > You should examine "leaf" size and texture, number of scales on scape, > shape of bracts and bracteoles, pollen colour, seed shape, etc. I can not confirm number of scales on scape, etc now. I can not confirm all things about the flower. However,If my friend ends the putting of a specimen in order, I will be able to discuss with my friend. About seed shape My friend did the visit of Tepui at the beginning of January. It was the 3rd visit but the friend could not discover any seed in any Tepui. > However, if the differences you mentioned were found in several > geographically separated populations, and especially if they are > non-overlapping (with _U.quelchii_ s.str.) and constant even in > cultivation, your plant could perhaps be considered a new species > (_U.asplundii_ is also not very much more than a large _U.jamesoniana_). Do > you have living specimens of the plant? Do in any case not forget to > preserve specimens (preferably in liquid) of it, so it may eventually be > described validly! I keep the living plants of my friend. I am growing in them instead of the friend. However, the plants don't have a flower. Because, all plants which have a flower were made a specimen. My friend has priority over specimen making without hesitating. As you know, My friend made a white flower U.humboldtii a specimen last year. I supported it from the scientific standpoint. The other hand ,I grieved for the feelings as a grower. Anyway, the friend made specimens. However, The friend wasn't making specimens in liquid. Without killing plants, Will I be able to examine plants? By the way There were plants which resembled _U.jamesoniana_ in the plant which my friend thought that is _U.campbelliana_ in Akopan. Compared with U.jamesoniana Marahuca last year The underground part of the plant seems the same. The leaf is firm and has thickness and then the color is rather dark. Is there possibility that small epiphytic Utricularia except _U.jamesoniana_ exists? Thank you very much, Jan-san! Kindest regards from Japan Isao  ################### From: Jan@pbc-ths1.pci.chemie.uni-tuebingen.de (Jan Schlauer) Date: Tue, 23 Jan 1996 15:15:09 +0100 Subject: Re: China Dear Gilles, > I have planned to go in China next summer, and more especially in Beijing. >Would anyone have information on the chinese CPs ? Is there any CP >collection in China ? Unfortunately, Beijing is rather boring as far as cps are concerned. The (known) interesting Chinese elements are either from the Himalayas, from their E border, or from subtropical Guangxi, all rather far away from Beijing: _Drosera oblanceolata_ (ENDEMIC, Guangxi) _Utricularia forrestii_ (ENDEMIC, Yunnan, NW Tengyneh) _U.muticaulis_ (SUBENDEMIC, Tibet/Xizang) _U.peranomala_ (ENDEMIC, Guangxi) _U.salwinensis_ ((?SUB)ENDEMIC, Yunnan) _U.warburgii_ (ENDEMIC, Zhejiang) > So I went to the library, so as to find serious informations on the local >CPs, and I found out that there were D. spathulata, D. burmanii, some >Utricularia species, and Nepenthes mirabilis, which was said to be "common". >Unfortunately I did not find any of those plants in the wild. All species you mentioned are very widespread in SE Asia and in cultivation. These do not merit a trip to China. Kind regards Jan ################### From: Justin Pile Date: Tue, 23 Jan 1996 17:20:33 +0000 Subject: Brocchinia reducta Hi, I was wondering what the best growing medium is for Brocchinia reducta. Currently I have been using a 1:1 mixture of peat and sand. Is this the best medium? I have a small plant growing in the peat/sand mixture and it has stayed small. Please advise, thanks. ################### From: shlam@hkueee.hku.hk (LAM Shing) Date: Wed, 24 Jan 1996 08:46:07 --800 Subject: Re: China > I have planned to go in China next summer, and more especially in > Beijing. Would anyone have information on the chinese CPs ? Is there > any CP collection in China ? Ther botanical institutes in China are having a hard time because of diminishing financial support from the government. I don't know if there is any CP collection. I think you may try the South China Botanical Garden in Guangzhou, I heard that Y.Z. Ruan is still working there. I'll probably visit the garden in a few weeks time. The type of Drosera oblanceolata is deposited there, I think. > Last summer I went to Hong Kong for a two months training period. As > you can imagine, I tried my best to find CPs in the country... To have > some information, I went to the Herbarium in Hongkong Park, and I saw > that they had just opened a new room with a CP collection. And you > know what, the only CPs they had still had the "Produced in Holland" > label..! It's a shame, they have a wonderful climate for tropical CPs, > have several local species, and the only thing they have to show us is > these tiny imported CP cuttings. You should have sent a message to the cp list before you came to Hong Kong. I agree that the CP collection in Hong Kong Park is a shame. They don't seem to know how to keep the plants happy. Go to the country instead where you can see Nepenthes mirabilis, Drosera spatulata, D. burmannii, D. peltata, D. indica, and a few Utricularia spp. As Jan has said, these are widespread CP species and they don't merit a trip on their own. But if you plan to go to Hong Kong anyway, why not go out and see them in the habitat. Regards, Shing --- Shing LAM shlam@hkueee.hku.hk P.O.Box 62754, Kwun Tong Post Office, HONG KONG ################### From: acs@primenet.com (Alan C. Skousen) Date: Tue, 23 Jan 1996 17:51:47 -0700 (MST) Subject: Re: cp and millipedes At 03:37 PM 1/22/96 -0800, dave evans wrote: >> I bought some CPs from a local nursery and they came >> complete with a stock of millipedes. No doubt the nursery >> is doing this to generate insecticide sales. Any suggestions >> as to the consequences of having a millipede infestation >> and what might be done about it? > > >I'm pretty sure they eat roots. Repotting and washing the soil >away from the roots will get rid of them. What CP did you get? > >Dave Evans > > I bought three common specimans: Sarracenia Purpurea, Vft, and a sundew which the nursery (Gubler) labeled Drosera Rotundifolia but the actual plant has elongated leaves not the round pads. Anybody want to hazard a guess as to which speciman it is? Thanks for the advice on the millipedes. ################### From: charles Date: Tue, 23 Jan 1996 22:27:52 -0500 (est) Subject: Re: CP digest 599 i found the idea of diatomaceous earth an interesting way to control insect populations in the garden. i do have two questions however.... 1. how much is needed to be effective? 2. will it hurt the roots or root hairs, etc? i take it that the diatomaceous earth acts as a scraping device on the outer layer of the insects and causes them to dehydrate? thanks for the ideas charles ################### From: Jan@pbc-ths1.pci.chemie.uni-tuebingen.de (Jan Schlauer) Date: Thu, 18 Jan 1996 12:24:43 +0100 Subject: Re: Fernando Rivadavia Hi Gilles! > " Hi Fernando, >First sorry for not being here when you phoned me, I thought you would g= ive >a phonenumber. >Did you enjoy Paris ? I hope your trip in Europe is OK. >I wish DIONEE, the french CP association could have organised something = for >you, but I seem to be the only one dealing with the net around here...Ma= ybe >we'll meet next time...But anyway I would be happy to receive some mails= >from you in the future. >See you, >Gilles" This is Fernando writing from Jan Schlauer=B4s. I've been meeting= lots of great people, seeing fantastic plants and discussing CPs 24h a da= y. Too bad I'm leaving on Sunday already. Today we're going over to Joachim Nertz's place to see his famous Heliamphora and Neps. Tomorrow I=B4ll be seeing Andreas Wistuba's collection. Anyways, sorry I couldn't get in tou= ch with you Gilles. I only stayed 2 days in Paris seeing herbarium all day. = I hardly had time to walk around town. I would've liked to have met you and= others, but it'll have to wait 'till next time I guess. Thanx anyways, an= d don=B4t worry, I'll keep in touch! Greetings to all from Tubingen! Fernando Rivadavia ################### From: STORY@seqaxp.bio.caltech.edu Date: Tue, 23 Jan 1996 23:34:05 -0800 (PST) Subject: Cat repellant? Hi everyone, Does anyone know of some sort of harmless substance to spray on plants to keep cats from chewing on them? I have a couple of Sarracenias outside that seem to be coming out of dormancy. Perhaps this was stimulated by an unusual warm spell a couple of weeks ago with a number of days in the 80s F (up to 30 C). Anyway, my next door neighbor's cats seem to think that pitchers are fun to play with, chew, or perhaps even eat! They have already bit the tops off some of the old pitchers. I figured now was the time to do something about it, before the new growth fully develops! On a different note, people may remember that I inquired a couple months ago about Nepenthes that might be suitable for growing outside here in Los Angeles. I have had N. khasiana, N.ventricosa, and N. alata outside all winter. The alata and ventricosa I have taken inside only during the last couple nights--this season's only nights at or below 40 F (4 C). All are growing well, although they seem to have postponed (?) pitchering at the moment. I have also planted some seed bank seeds as well as some from Allen Lowrie in the last week. I was really impressed by the speed which Lowrie got back to me. I received seeds less than 3 weeks after I put my order in the mail. Hopefully I'll have some new plants soon! Randy ################### From: blymn@awadi.com.au (Brett Lymn) Date: Wed, 24 Jan 1996 18:53:43 +1030 (CST) Subject: Re: Cat repellant? According to STORY@seqaxp.bio.caltech.edu: > >Does anyone know of some sort of harmless substance >to spray on plants to keep cats from chewing on them? >I have a couple of Sarracenias outside that seem to >be coming out of dormancy. Perhaps this was stimulated >by an unusual warm spell a couple of weeks ago with a >number of days in the 80s F (up to 30 C). Anyway, >my next door neighbor's cats seem to think that pitchers >are fun to play with, chew, or perhaps even eat! They >have already bit the tops off some of the old pitchers. >I figured now was the time to do something about it, >before the new growth fully develops! > Cats are not supposed to like mint (though they are perverse beasties at the best of times and the ones you are dealing with may just love it ;-). Maybe you could make a mint tea and spray that on/around your plants. Alternatively, a wire mesh guard may be enough to discourage them - it is what I have to resort to to stop our duck mowing down all my CP. It took me a while to work out why my D. Binata was not doing very well until the duck got broody and suddenly my binata had leaves..... -- Brett Lymn, Computer Systems Administrator, AWA Defence Industries =============================================================================== "Upgrading your memory gives you MORE RAM!" - ad in MacWAREHOUSE catalogue. ################### From: writserv@mi.net Date: Wed, 24 Jan 1996 06:35:38 -0400 Subject: Re: CP digest 599 >i found the idea of diatomaceous earth an interesting way to control >insect populations in the garden. >i do have two questions however.... >1. how much is needed to be effective? >2. will it hurt the roots or root hairs, etc? > >i take it that the diatomaceous earth acts as a scraping device on the >outer layer of the insects and causes them to dehydrate? > There have been studies that indicate that diatomaceous earth may do something the same to your lungs and other damp membranes it comes in contact with (eyes, nose). Don't forget the stuff stays where it settles and gets picked up by anything it comes in contact with (your fingers to your eyes?). While the effects (if any) are not immediate and more accumulative, some precautions may be in order. While this substance is not a poison, nor is asbestos, and it has been under scrutiny for far less time. Rand Nicholson (writserv@mi.net) Canada ################### From: Gordon Wells (Tel "(343)-401-6659") Date: Wed, 24 Jan 1996 13:00:06 UTC+0100 Subject: CP book to trade Hi, I have an extra copy (new) of Adrian Slack's book "Carnivorous Plants" that I would be willing to trade for his other book, "Insect-Eating Plants and How to Grow Them", if anyone's interested. I'd also be willing to trade it for Darwin's "Insectivorous Plants". Gordon Wells Instituto de Cibernetica Diagonal 647, planta 2 Barcelona 08028 SPAIN ################### From: "Larry Logoteta" Date: 24 Jan 1996 08:17:57 -0800 Subject: BACPS Metting REGARDING BACPS Metting To all San Franciso Bay area people who would like to attend the Bacps mettings this year. Here are the dates for our mettings as announced by President Larry Logoteta. Feb 10,1996 at Lincoln Elementary School in Alameda May 18, 1996 at Berkley Botanical Gardens at UC Aug 24, 1996 at Berkley Botanical Gardens at UC Nov 16, 1996 at Berkely Botanical Gardens at UC Meetings start at 12noon to 4PM. They feature news, raffle, auction guest speaker, plant sellers and socializing. We welcome everyone intersted in CP.To get to Lincoln School in Alameda : take 880 freeway to high st in Oakland. Go east over bridge and turn left at the first traffic light. This is Fernside Blvd, and it would be several miles until you see the school site sign . Then turn left into parking lot of Lincoln Elemtary School. Metting room is on the side of school. Nov 16, 1999 " ################### From: LASKODR Date: Wed, 24 Jan 1996 11:28:17 -0500 (EST) Subject: Re: CP digest 600 >Hi everyone, > >Does anyone know of some sort of harmless substance >to spray on plants to keep cats from chewing on them? There is a spray product available in most pet stores that has a smell cats *hate*. Eventually this is supposed to "train" them not to go near *where the smell is. Another thing you might try is putting balloons around your plants, a popping balloon will scare them. Or you might stand at the ready with a water pistol and squirt them when they go near the plants. The water gun seems to be the most effective. While you are in the pet store you might look for some "cat grass". This is just some millet or rye grain you can sprout for them to graze on. I don't think cats hate mint because catnip is a mint. Maybe some hate spearmint or peppermint but I wouldn't count on it. Good luck! Don /\_/\ @@ =Y= ~ ################### From: "Andreas Wistuba" Date: Wed, 24 Jan 1996 17:18:14 GMT+1 Subject: Re: Brocchinia reducta > I was wondering what the best growing medium is for Brocchinia > reducta. Currently I have been using a 1:1 mixture of peat and > sand. Is this the best medium? I have a small plant growing in the > peat/sand mixture and it has stayed small. Please advise, thanks. Peat or peat/sand are OK. Andreas Wistuba; Mudauer Ring 227; 68259 Mannheim; Germany Phone: +49-621-705471 / +49-621-7152027 Fax: +49-621-7152028 E-Mail: andreas.wistuba@rhein-neckar.de WWW: http://www.rhein-neckar.de/~carnivor/index.html ################### From: steiger@iae.unibe.ch (Juerg Steiger) Date: Wed, 24 Jan 1996 18:52:48 +0000 Subject: Re: just to introduce myself... Matthias >In my thesis I will describe some remote areals of Drosera >rotundifolia and D. anglica in the northern Black Forest, Germany. What's the reason for that topic? For both species, widespread in Eurasia and North America, the northern Black Forest is not a marginal distribution area (plant populations of marginal sites show sometimes morphological or caryological peculiarities). Both do not show - up to now - chromosomal variations (D. rotundifolia has everywhere 2n=20 and D. anglica 2n=40. As known since 1955 D. anglica is a tetraploid (amphiploid) stabilized and fertile hybrid of D. linearis (2n=20) x D. rotundifolia . The diploid hybrid is morphologically identical with D. anglica but sterile. The hybrid D. rotundifolia x D. anglica, rather frequent at common sites, has 2n=30 and is sterile due to disorders in the pollen meiosis. In the southern Black Forest there are also sites of D. intermedia (2n=20), likewise widespread in Eurasia and North America, in Europe from Scandinavia to Portugal and northern Italy. Why don't you at least include this species? A friendly advice: I doubt whether your thesis topic would reveal many new facts. Perhaps it would be wise to reassess it. Kind regards Juerg ___________________________________________________ Dr. Juerg Steiger, Institut fuer Aus-, Weiter- und Fortbildung IAWF University of Bern, Inselspital 37a, CH-3010 Bern, Switzerland Office: +41 (0)31 632 98 87, Fax: +41 (0)31 632 98 71 ################### From: Daniel_Tepas@du.maus.de (Daniel Tepas) Date: Tue, 23 Jan 96 15:04:00 GMT Subject: Seeds of VFT Hi, i have made the same experience: none of my VFT flowers produced any seeds, maybe this year. Growing of the seeds: put them in the usual CP substrate, warm (20-25, maybe 30 deg. Celsius, don't know how many Fs), keep humidity high (maybe with a foil or glass over the pot) and wait several weeks, takes some time. I heard it is easyer and quicker to get new plats out of the leaves of an VFT. Ciao, Daniel. ################### From: sportman@students.wisc.edu Date: Wed, 24 Jan 1996 12:57:56 -0600 Subject: Re: Cat repellant? >>Does anyone know of some sort of harmless substance >>to spray on plants to keep cats from chewing on them? Try oil of citronella...should be available in sporting goods stores or pharmacies as it is used as a mosquito repellent. Most cats find the odor disgusting. ################### From: trigg@jane.cs.waikato.ac.nz (Len Trigg) Date: Thu, 25 Jan 1996 08:39:56 +0000 Subject: Intro + questions =20 Hi all, I've been reading the list for a couple of months now, and thought (since I've got a couple of questions) I should also introduce myself. I'm currently studying Computer Science at the University here. My major hobby is fishkeeping, mainly towards the aquatic plants side of things, although I'm also interested in killifish. By some strange coincidence, at least 3 killifish people I know are also into CP's, which is how I came to be interested in them (only a few months ago, really, so I'm pretty much a beginner). Currently I have: Sarracenia flava and S. alata (both outside) VFT (one outside, and one in a terrarium) Drosera capensis and D. spathulata (in the terrarium), and D. binata (outside, and is going to open its flowers today or tomorrow by the looks - hopefully I'll be able to get seeds) I'm quite amazed by the difference between the indoor and outdoor VFT's - the one outside has short leaves and big red traps, and the indoor one has long wide leaves with big green traps I guess to try and increase its light consumption. I'd like to move the terrarium closer to the window than it currently is. It's summer here at the moment, and where I live 30C would be a hot summers day, and -2C a cold winters night. Just over a week ago I was also given a cutting from a Nepenthes mastersiana, which I was told is pretty easy to get rooted and growing. I've potted it in sphagnum moss, and have the whole thing sitting in a sealed spare fishtank to keep the humidity high. When it gets going, I'm hoping to keep it as an indoor hanging plant, assuming the temperatures and ambient humidity allow it. Which leads me to a question. I see people here stating "My humidity is X%" - what I want to know is how do you measure the humidity to get a number like X? Cheers, =09Len (who will probably end up living in a greenhouse one day) --=20 =20Len Trigg =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D= =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D =20Comp Sci Grad DoD#1334 trigg@cs.waikato.ac.nz =20 =20Waikato Uni GPX250 http://www.cs.waikato.ac.nz/~trigg = =20 =20 =20GCS d---(+) p c++ !l u+ e++ m* s n@ h--- f* !g w t++ r y+(*) ################### From: redbaron@cix.compulink.co.uk (Richard Marsden) Date: Wed, 24 Jan 96 19:48 GMT Subject: Re: CP digest 600 In-Reply-To: <9417281124011996/A07653/BETA/11A1C2DC1100*@MHS> Re: Cat deterrants "Gardener's Question Time" in the UK always recomends tiger shit from a visiting circus. Apparently it works wonders! :-) Not sure about the fertiliser affect on the the CP though... :-( Richard ################### From: Clarke Brunt Date: Tue, 23 Jan 1996 20:07:16 +0000 Subject: Re: Advise On 22 Jan 96 at 0:47, CK Lee wrote: > I have been growing VFT's for several years now with success but > everytime my VFT had flowered and formed seeds, I have never successfully > germinate the seeds. Also, not all the flowers would form seeds. I would > usually pollinate them with a Q-tip and only one or two of the flowers would > form seeds. I had placed the seeds on damp peat moss. Can anyone advise as > to how to get those seeds to germinate? (lighting condition, humidity, temp, > growing medium) I'm surprised they haven't germinated. I too find that not all flowers produce seed, and some produce a lot more seed than others. I guess I've had seeds fail to germinate too, but some have certainly germinated. I don't do anything special with them - just sow on the surface of peat or peat/sand, stood in water tray, and just keep in similar conditions to the adult plants. > Anyways, since I've been growing VFT for several years and I'm getting > a little bored, I recently got a few Droseras. I have no idea what type of > Drosera but when I bought them, they had large droplets on the hairs of the > leaves. After I placed them into my terranium, all the droplets disappeared. > The humidity in my terranium was 50-60% and I had repotted them into new > pots. The plant continues to sprout new leaves but only small minute > droplets form on the leaves. Can anybody give me any advise on how to get > them to form large droplets again? I wonder what sort of Drosera it is. D. capensis is possibly the most widely grow - its leaves are strap-like and upright. Some others form flat rosettes on the ground. 50-60% humidity seems low for inside a terrarium - it's often higher than that outside terraria in the U.K. That's the only reason I can think of for a lack of droplets. -- Clarke Brunt (clarke@brunt.demon.co.uk) ################### From: steiger@iae.unibe.ch (Juerg Steiger) Date: Wed, 24 Jan 1996 21:23:02 +0000 Subject: Re: just to introduce myself... Matthias As a supplement to my recent message I may add that 2n=20 for Drosera intermedia is valid only for Europe. It seems that in North America there are also populations with 2n=40. Juerg ___________________________________________________ Juerg Steiger, Institut fuer Aus-, Weiter- und Fortbildung IAWF University of Bern, Inselspital 37a, CH-3010 Bern, Switzerland Office: ++41 31 632 98 87, Fax: ++41 31 632 98 71 ################### From: Rick Walker Date: Wed, 24 Jan 1996 13:16:21 -0800 Subject: BACPS Meeting To all San Franciso Bay area people who would like to attend the BACPS meetings this year. Here are the dates for our meetings as announced by President Larry Logoteta. Feb 10,1996 at Lincoln Elementary School in Alameda May 18, 1996 at Berkeley Botanical Gardens at UC Aug 24, 1996 at Berkeley Botanical Gardens at UC Nov 16, 1996 at Berkeley Botanical Gardens at UC Meetings start at 12noon to 4PM. They feature news, raffle, auction guest speaker, plant sellers and socializing. We welcome everyone interested in CP.To get to Lincoln School in Alameda : take 880 freeway to High Street in Oakland. Go East over bridge and turn left at the first traffic light. This is Fernside Blvd, and it will be about a mile until you see the school site sign . Then turn left into parking lot of Lincoln Elemtary School. Meeting room is on the side of school. -- Larry Logoteta ################### From: bertozzi.terry@wpo.pi.sa.gov.au Date: Thu, 25 Jan 1996 08:23:57 +0930 Subject: P. gypsicola A question for the Pinguiculaphiles; I have a P. gypsicola which I acquired about 6 months ago as a resting bud, which is still a resting bud. The rest of my mexican Pings have begun to grow and some have flowered. Does P. gypsicola just have a long dormant period or am I obviously doing something wrong? Any suggestions would be helpful Cheers Terry ################### From: R5M@aol.com Date: Wed, 24 Jan 1996 16:59:34 -0500 Subject: Re: Cat repellant? In a message dated 96-01-24 02:45:01 EST, you write: >Does anyone know of some sort of harmless substance >to spray on plants to keep cats from chewing on them? We've been kicking this idea around for a few years at the Wildlife Center. Rock and Roll which works for Racoons and 'Possums won't work with cats. Try some red hot chilly pepper and water in a blender, strain the results and spray on the plants, or around the plants. Black pepper straight might work too as a repellant and you wouldn't have to spray the plants with it. Becky ################### From: "Phil Semanchuk" Date: Wed, 24 Jan 96 23:08:01 -0500 Subject: Re: Cat repellant? [This message is converted from WPS-PLUS to ASCII] > Black pepper straight might work too as a repellant > and you wouldn't have to spray the plants with it. Black pepper worked for a while on my cat but it has the side effect of not absorbing water (I've heard quite a few people suggest it works as an adequate replacement for radiator stop leak). I put it very heavily on one plant (non-CP) to try to stop my cat from digging in it, and now when I water the plant, the water takes a very long time to seep into the soil and the soil looks a little funky. This may be OK with you but I didn't like it. Personally I'd go for the chili pepper spray or perhaps a spray made of rotten eggs which I've heard discourages deer appetites quite well. Doesn't anyone here follow rec.pets.cats? Surely this must've come up. Phil pjs20347@glaxo.com or bonz@nando.net ################### From: dave evans Date: Wed, 24 Jan 96 18:36 EST Subject: Re: P. gypsicola > I have a P. gypsicola which I acquired about 6 months ago as a resting > bud, which is still a resting bud. The rest of my mexican Pings have > begun to grow and some have flowered. Does P. gypsicola just have a > long dormant period or am I obviously doing something wrong? > > > Cheers Terry OK, you can unroll the winter bud, sometimes they stuck like that. It will look like its wrapped up tight but it's not, just gently seperate the leaves. Dave Evans ################### From: MRMACOPHYL@aol.com Date: Wed, 24 Jan 1996 22:02:26 -0500 Subject: Re: P. gypsicola P. gypsicola has a tendency to have a longer dormant period than most species. definitly don't mess with it and will break in it's own sweet time. remember the "P" word. Patience Gordon ################### From: "Demetrio Lamzaki" Date: Thu, 25 Jan 96 02:09:13 UT Subject: Reptilian CP R>Hi everyone, R>Does anyone know of some sort of harmless substance R>to spray on plants to keep cats from chewing on them? Not exactly a spray, I have another method of keeping cats away, it's my Boxer. He loves to sun himself next to the Sarracenia, and they're as grateful as I am for his watchdog duties. Cats wouldn't dare approach! :-O AS>I bought three common specimans: Sarracenia Purpurea, Vft, and a AS>sundew which the nursery (Gubler) labeled Drosera Rotundifolia but the AS>actual plant has elongated leaves not the round pads. Anybody want to AS>hazard a guess as to which speciman it is? Most likely the ubiquitous Drosera capensis. Describe its leaf dimensions and tentacle placement Alan, that'll help us nail it down. Well, everyone, I too have joined the ranks of CP/reptile owners, I just received a turtle as a belated Christmas/very early birthday present. Haven't had one since before I ever had CP, what an out of the blue surprise he was. Now all I need is a tarantula to perfectly fit the profile! :-) Cheers, Demetrios ################### From: John Walker Date: Wed, 24 Jan 1996 21:49:04 -0800 Subject: Humidity X% At 11:54 AM 1/24/96 -0800, you wrote: >Hi all..... >Which leads me to a question. I see people here stating "My >humidity is X%" - what I want to know is how do you measure the >humidity to get a number like X? > ********************************************* Try a digital temp\humidity gauge. In the States it is available from Radio Shack, etc., for about $25. I keep one in every growing location. John Walker jorwa@ix.netcom.com ################### From: Peter Cole Date: Thu, 25 Jan 1996 00:04:33 GMT Subject: Re: Brocchinia Reducta > Hi, > > I was wondering what the best growing medium is for Brocchinia = > > reducta. Currently I have been using a 1:1 mixture of peat and = > > sand. Is this the best medium? I have a small plant growing in the = > > peat/sand mixture and it has stayed small. Please advise, thanks. I have my Brocchinia in a terrarium with Heliamphoras, some S. American Drosera and Utrics. It's in a very peaty pocket with the water level 2" or so below the surface, and bright fluorescent lighting. Prior to filling the terrarium it was in pure peat, in a full-length 5" pot in 1/2" water on a sunny, south-facing windowsill. It's grown steadily, produced a pup, and seems happy in either of these environments. It doesn't strike me as a demanding species, though I've only had it for less than a year. It's a comparatively slow grower I guess, but these things are relative - it's a darned sight faster than most cycads. Hope this helps, Peter ################### From: writserv@mi.net Date: Thu, 25 Jan 1996 06:48:51 -0400 Subject: Re: Cat repellant? >In a message dated 96-01-24 02:45:01 EST, you write: > >>Does anyone know of some sort of harmless substance >>to spray on plants to keep cats from chewing on them? > >We've been kicking this idea around for a few years at the Wildlife Center. > Rock and Roll which works for Racoons and 'Possums won't work with cats. > Try some red hot chilly pepper and water in a blender, strain the results >and spray on the plants, or around the plants. Black pepper straight might >work too as a repellant and you wouldn't have to spray the plants with it. >Becky Black pepper, the oil from one garlic clove and a dash of tobasco to one litre of water will put a cat's ears back. This should not have a strong odour when sprayed. Add a cigarette butt infusion of nicotine and a drop of liquid soap and you have a serious insecticide that will kill a cockroach. Repeat mistings every 8 - 10 days for spider mites and whitefly to get the hatchlings. Remember, any actively trapping carnivorous plant smells to an animal of rotting protien. A snack to a cat. A racoon will tear your entire plantings apart (sob). :{(} (wiser but sadder guy with a beard) Rand Nicholson (writserv@mi.net) Canada ################### From: Randall Palmer Date: Thu, 25 Jan 1996 07:36:55 -0500 (EST) Subject: Re: CP digest 600 In my adventures with canevours, I uses an old remady that my Uncle told me about for food bearing trees. It works real neat with my Venus plus when used with moderation they grow better. I simply take a gallon of pure water, a tablespoon of dish washing liquid, and two tablespoons of cooking oil. I keep in handy when ever I see a bug. Cats love Venus'es but they don't really like my insectacide pestacide concation. It won't cure every thing but it's a good start. Randy Palmer sfdzeqe0@scfn.thpl.lib.fl.us ################### From: John Kneen Date: Thu, 25 Jan 1996 15:36:17 +0200 Subject: Fynbos -Reply Jeff Sorry about the delayed response to your question about Fynbos. Did you get any other replies? If you have not, I could dig up some info about the areas. John Kneen ################### From: Fernando Rivadavia Lopes Date: Thu, 25 Jan 1996 11:42:09 -0300 (GRNLNDST) Subject: European Trip (1) Hello to all!! =09I'm finally back in Brazil. After 5 weeks of winter in Europe it's=20 good to be back at 30C with the usual summer tropical thundertorms at the= =20 end of the afternoon, which almost got me stranded on the way home from=20 university today, where I was cleaning up the greenhouse. I had a=20 fantastic time and would like to thank everybody who made it possible,=20 especially those who helped me out along the way, housing and feeding me. = =20 =09I first spent 3 weeks in Italy. That was the touristy part of the trip. At the end of these 3 weeks I met Alessandro Delfrate (ciao Alex!) in Milano and we went to Udine for the 1st meeting of the Italian CPers.=20 They all knew a guy called Furio Ersetti who sells CPs in Udine, but they didn't know each other. So I finally gave them a reason to get together and meet each other.=20 =09I spent the night in Udine at the house of Fiorello Verona, a CPer and oldtime correspondant of mine. Most of the 30 (more or less) CPers=20 arrived next morning at Furio's. We woke up late and by the time we=20 arrived at Furio's, everybody was already there. I'll never forget this=20 scene. When I entered the CP greenhouse, Furio's wife, Lili, drowned the=20 general murmur with her high scream "E arrivato Fernando Rivadavia!!"=20 ("Fernando Rivadavia is here!!"). Italians are hilarious people!=20 =09We had a fantastic lunch, which I'll also never forget, at a=20 local restaurant. Not only was the food magnificent, but the story-telling= =20 had me rolling on the floor! Stories like only Italians know how to tell=20 them! After lunch I presented my slide show in our private room at the=20 restaurant and then Fabio D'=C1lessi (ciao Fabio!) showed the slides of his= =20 trip to the USA.=20 =09After a short stop in Milano, I was off to Bern, Switzerland, to meet the famous temperate-Pinguicula specialist Juerg Steiger (hi Juerg!). I spent almost 2 days with him and had a fantastic intensive course on the northern temperate Pings. I had a ball hearing his stories on his expedition to Russia to search for Pings. Hey juerg, you should really write an article about that! =09One of the things that most impressed me at Juerg's was his=20 cultivation method for Pings. They're all on the side of his house=20 growing in tiny terraces, I guess you could call it. Hopefully this will=20 be portrayed in one of his 210 fantastic photos which will soon be=20 available on the 'net. This system of his would also probably work very=20 well for other small CPs like Drosera, Utrics, and Genlisea. Before=20 leaving, Juerg took me to see a natural site of P.alpina right close to=20 Bern, which was very interesting, though the plants were obviously=20 dormant. =20 =09My next stop was Rouen, just north of Paris, where I'd be meeting=20 another CPer and long time correspondant of mine, Pierre Sibille, who was= =20 very active with the French CPS until recently. I stayed 2 days with=20 Pierre and we even had a small meeting with a few local CPers. Pierre had= =20 taped 2 wonderful TV programs on the tepuis which I had a great time=20 watching (a few times each!). One I especially liked, since it showed=20 Mt.Duida. Most tepui programs only show Mt.Roraima and Cuquenam. On=20 Mt.Duida, huge populations of H.tatei were shown. Huge in all senses!=20 There were also some interesting unidentified Drosera.=20 =09I then stayed 2 days in Paris, tucked away inside the Natural History Museum and the city's fantastic subway system (I hardly saw the=20 town!). It was a quick stop for work to study herbarium material of my=20 native CPs, though I was fascinated with herbarium material of S.American= =20 and S.African Drosera which I'd only read about but had never seen. The=20 one that most caught my attention was D.meristocaulis from the Neblina=20 Peak, on the border betwen Venezuela and Brazil. Someone just HAS to get=20 this primitive species into cultivation!! =09As to Brazilian Drosera, I saw most of the TYPE material I wanted=20 to study. One of the most interesting observations was that what is=20 cultivated all over the world as D.villosa might have to change name. The= =20 TYPE plants seem to be closer to what I thought was a new species I'd=20 collected not too far away from the D.villosa TYPE location. I'll have to= =20 go to D.villosa's TYPE location soon to check this out. If it is what I=20 believe it might be, the plants we call D.villosa will have to change=20 name to D.ascendens, an old synonym which better represents the plants we= =20 thought were D.villosa. Another interesting observation was that the TYPE= =20 D.capillaris var.brasiliensis is really D.intermedia! So the D.capillaris= =20 found here in Brazil have never actually received a suspecific =20 classification. Also curious was the TYPE D.parvifolia, which had been=20 synonymized to D.montana var.montana by Diels. It is actually depauperate= =20 D.communis. =20 =09My stay in Paris was really short, mostly because I was already a=20 day behind my plans due to incompatible train schedules. Thus my=20 apologies to Gilles Lardy for not having the time to call back so we=20 could meet up. I was at a youth hostel and when I wasn't out at the=20 Natural History Museum, I was trying to catch up on my sleep at the=20 hostel (which is usually not something easy to do at a hostel!). It was a= =20 pity, but hopefully next time.=20 =09To be continued................ England and Germany next.=20 =20 =20 =20 =09=09=20 =20 =20 =09=09=09Fernando Rivadavia ################### From: "Paul Temple" Date: Thu, 25 Jan 96 13:55:56 +0000 Subject: Re: CP digest 597 +---------------------------+ TM From: Paul Temple | | | | | | | | Dept: Digital | d | i | g | i | t | a | l | Func: Net Comms | | | | | | | | DTN: 7781-1582 +---------------------------+ Easynet: fangio::temple_p Internet: temple_p@gmt.dec.com Loc/MS: GMT >I am writing this Email the second time because my Compuserve e-mail >spell-checker just deleted my whole Email. I am hoping to keep some >cold water catfish with either Aldrovanda or aquatic Utrics. How do I >set my tank up and what sort of gravel/compost should I put at the >bottom, what sort of pH value should I have??? I believe Aldrovanda >and Utrics can be over wintered at 1 or 2 C so eliminating the need for >a water heater. Thank you everybody for all you help (in >anticipation!) and hear from you again soon. Maybe. If my E-mailer >still works. I thought I answered all this in earlier mails this month! Aldrovanda is reputedly not that fussy about pH. However it grows superbly for me in acid water, neutral rainwater over a 5cm peat bed with added rainwater boiled with peat. Pleco's love acidity. Use any neutral gravel as a 3cm deep layer over the peat bed. The peat shpould be boiled to wet it and drive out air and to sterilise it. You can keep Aldrovanda even at sub zero temperatures. But it grows in climates where there is seasonal heat creating very warm water. You will need good summer temperatures and I recommend a water heater. Regards Paul ################### From: L235@aol.com Date: Thu, 25 Jan 1996 09:11:09 -0500 Subject: Re: Out-of-print CP books The recent discussions on where to obtain (trade, borrow, etc.) out-of-print CP books, most notably the works of Adrian Slack, brings up a question in my mind. Though I'm in the publishing business, I'm no copyright attorney (though I might ask ours) In the meantime, what does U.S. or international copyright law say about the mechanical reproduction of out-of-print works? It would seem is copyright stands to protec the financial interest of authors/publishers, that it would seem without harm to reproduce works where there exists no further profit potential for their owners/distributors. Am I WAY off base here? Curiously yours, Jay Lechtman L235@aol.com ################### From: Fernando Rivadavia Lopes Date: Thu, 25 Jan 1996 12:40:56 -0300 (GRNLNDST) Subject: Genlisea Dear Gilles, > Although Barry's articles on Genlisea species are very interesting, I > would like to have further informations on this genus. In his book, > Slack mentions that the trap may reach the length of 15 cm, does anybody > know which species are concerned by this. I have heard that there were two > kinds of Genlisea, the terrestrial and the aquatic ones. Which one of the > species are aquatic ; does anybody grow them at the moment, or has grown > them in the past ? Any other information on the genus will be wellcome. > Thank you for your help... > > Gilles As I well know from field experience, Genlisea traps are extremely difficult to collect. They are very brittle and when you try to clean the plants for herbarium, removing all the dirt and other plant's roots, you are always frustrated by the results. It appears to me though that the Brazilian sub-Amazonian species all have traps that reach at least 5 to 10cm. These are G.aurea, G.repens, G.filiformis, G.pygmaea, G.violacea, G.lobata, and G.uncinata. At least G.aurea and especially G.uncinata have traps which may reach and pass 15cm in length. I guess cultivation is one of the only ways to find out how long they actually can get. As to being aquatic or terretrial, this is a very artificial term for this genus, in my opinion. G.repens is almost always found below water on streamsides or in seepages while G.aurea is usually found in seepages where it is slightly submerged of right at the surface of the water, though both species can grow on drier ground. Apparently, G.guianensis, G.roraimensis, and G.sanariapoana, from northern S.America, also grow in this flooded type of habitat. The other species mentioned are common in humid sandy soil or mosses, though you can often find the annuals G.pygmaea and G.filiformis covered by a thin film of water during their growing season. I hope this helps in some way. Fernando Rivadavia Sao Paulo, Brazil ################### From: Christopher Creel Date: Thu, 25 Jan 96 8:13:33 MST Subject: Humidity Hey all... I threw together a growing chamber last week out of PVC piping, Painter's Plastic (4 mil), and a door made out of Plexiglass. It is lighted by a sodium halide light. Here is the problem: I am getting killed on humidity! I did not think that keeping the humidity up in this thing was going to be a problem. Any ideas on what I can do to remedy this situation? Chris ################### From: "Lysne, Mark A." Date: Thu, 25 Jan 96 10:34:54 PST Subject: San Francisco CP Displays/Sites? I will be in San Francisco from February 3rd through the 9th. Are there any CP displays or habitats near San Francisco that I can visit? Mark Lysne mlysne@logicon.com ################### From: "Nick Plummer" Date: 25 Jan 1996 11:05:17 -0500 Subject: Re: CP and Catfish Reply to: RE>CP and Catfish Someone wrote: >>I am hoping to keep some cold water catfish with either Aldrovanda or >>aquatic Utrics. Paul Temple replied: > Aldrovanda is reputedly not that fussy about pH. However it grows >superbly for me in acid water, neutral rainwater over a 5cm peat bed >with added rainwater boiled with peat. Pleco's love acidity. Use any >neutral gravel as a 3cm deep layer over the peat bed. The peat shpould be >boiled to wet it and drive out air and to sterilise it. >You can keep Aldrovanda even at sub zero temperatures. But it grows in >climates where there is seasonal heat creating very warm water. You >will need good summer temperatures and I recommend a water heater. I second the recommendation for a heater. Plecos may love acidity, but I doubt they will tolerate water temperatures near freezing. Algae eating catfish like Plecos are South American and will want a warm aquarium. Some species from highland streams may like cooler temperatures, but they will want highly oxygenated, heavily filtered water. "Cold water catfish" to me suggests north American catfish like bullheads, madtoms, or channel cats and European catfish like the Wels. With the exception of madtoms, these all grow very large and are basically just appetites with fins. They are usually predatory and won't do much for algae. Cold water cats (especially madtoms) are certainly fun to keep, but they probably aren't good tankmates for delicate CPs. cheers, Nick (whose first Nepenthes, a N. alata, is finally starting to make pitchers. And there was much rejoicing) Nicholas Plummer nplummer@umich.edu ################### From: John Walker Date: Thu, 25 Jan 1996 08:09:38 -0800 Subject: Re: Humidity At 07:12 AM 1/25/96 -0800, you wrote: >Hey all... > I threw together a growing chamber last week out of PVC >piping, Painter's Plastic (4 mil), and a door made out of Plexiglass. >It is lighted by a sodium halide light. > Here is the problem: I am getting killed on humidity! I did >not think that keeping the humidity up in this thing was going to be a >problem. Any ideas on what I can do to remedy this situation? > >Chris **************************************************************************** Perhaps a vaporizer of the type used by people at night when they have a bad cough? Just a thought. John Walker> jorwa@ix.netcom.com ################### From: Sean Barry Date: Thu, 25 Jan 1996 08:42:38 -0800 (PST) Subject: Re: Out-of-print CP books On Thu, 25 Jan 1996 L235@aol.com wrote: > The recent discussions on where to obtain (trade, borrow, etc.) > out-of-print CP books, most notably the works of Adrian Slack, brings > up a question in my mind. Though I'm in the publishing business, I'm > no copyright attorney (though I might ask ours) In the meantime, what > does U.S. or international copyright law say about the mechanical > reproduction of out-of-print works? It would seem is copyright stands > to protec the financial interest of authors/publishers, that it would > seem without harm to reproduce works where there exists no further > profit potential for their owners/distributors. As far as I know (from many years in the music business, where copyright is king), copyright rules apply to any work that is copyrighted, that is, any work that exists, until the copyright runs out, _NOT_ UNTIL THE WORK GOES OUT OF PRINT. The original copyright is good for 37 years and is renewable to a maximum of 75 years after publication. Copyright laws exist not so much to protect the profit potential, but to protect the work itself from unauthorized reproduction or theft. Photoreproduction of an out-of-print book (or taping an out-of-print record) if the copyright is still in place clearly violates the rules. The owner of the copyright is the only one who can permit that kind of reproduction, and remember that the ownership transfers to the owner's descendents, who are free to renew the copyright. If the owner is a publisher, be assured that they will enforce their rights. Also, the mere existence of a work constitutes copyright, if the author can prove authorship. The formalities of registration are important and they legally establish ownership for the community at large, but just because the little "c" in a circle or the word "copyright" is not included in a book, record, logo, Picasso, etc, does not imply that it is not protected under the copyright rules. In other words, if you want to photocopy Mr. Slack's books you must seek permission from Mr. Slack and his publishers, even though the books are out of print, until the copyrights expire. After all, if you decided to mass-reproduce and sell the books from first editions, don't you think the author and publisher of the source work would seek recompense? The only difference is quantity, and if all the people that have joined the CP hobby since Slack's books went out of print photocopied the books for their own use, that would be quite a large quantity, a pretty substantial percentage of the number of copies already in existence. Sean Barry ################### From: "Finn N. Rasmussen" Date: Thu, 25 Jan 1996 18:18:24 GMT+0100 Subject: Drosophyllum locality in Algarve? Hello CP'ers: I am not a CP hobbyist myself, my main interest is orchids. But I am teaching a course in plant taxonomy at the Univerity of Copenhagen, and I have noticed that many of the students are fascinated by CP's. Some of them grow CP's at home, others chose CP-related subjects for their term projects etc. Anyway, here is my question: I am going on a vacational trip to the Algarve Province in southern Portugal by the end of February, and I know that Drosophyllum lusitanicum grows at a few places there. I would like to get som photographs of the plants in their natural surroundings for my lectures (we have have some nice specimens in the Botanical Garden for close-ups). I have looked for Drosophyllum around Monchique on an ealier trip, but found no traces of it. I guess one has to know exactly where to go to find it, and I wonder if some members of this list can guide me? thank you very much in advance, Finn Finn N. Rasmussen Botanical Laboratory, University of Copenhagen Gothersgade 140, DK-1123 Copenhagen K., Denmark Phone: +45 35 32 21 55 Fax: +45 33 13 91 04 Web homepage: http://www.bot.ku.dk Email: FinnR@bot.ku.dk ################### From: "/R=HERLVX/R=AM/U=WELCH/L=US EPA/TN=(919) 541-0513/FFN=Jeffrey Welch/"@mr.rtpnc.epa.gov (919) (919) Date: Thu, 25 Jan 1996 12:51:48 -0500 (EST) Subject: CP and Tadpoles > Reply to: RE>CP and Catfish Hi Folks, I might suggest trying tadpoles to graze down the algae. I've been experimenting with a tank of U. inflata, and initially had massive algae growth. While it did slack off after several months, one of our local frogs deposited some eggs in the tank. It was probably a tree frog as the only unscreened opening into the greenhouse was through a roof vent and the tadpoles have remained small (4 cm). They are really keeping the algae down and don't appear to be bothering the U. inflata. Granted, they would have a finite tenure in an aquarium, but the North American species that overwinter as tadpoles have a wide temperature range. Please note that I have no experience with tadpoles and Aldrovanda. Just a thought! Jeff (in North Carolina) ################### From: Steve Lanham Date: Thu, 25 Jan 96 12:00:01 -0800 Subject: (no subject) Hello all I am a very new CP grower. I have one 7 yr old fly trap and from peter paul's "now I know beter" one Sarracnia minor "I orderd Sarracenia purpurea two butter worts and two Drosera rotundifolia. My interest in CP dates back to a vft I got from the back of a comic book. I gave it tap water and it slowly died. "very hard water" I plan to use this service if I run into sick plants only. I have one request can someone please tell me if Orgel's Orchids and Botanlque nursery are good soruces of CP I have orderd catalogs from them. I don't want a repeat of peter pauls service. Thank you very much Steve I Lanham ################### From: Perry Malouf Date: Thu, 25 Jan 1996 13:27:24 -0500 (EST) Subject: Re: Humidity Chris Creel wrote: > I threw together a growing chamber last week out of PVC > piping, Painter's Plastic (4 mil), and a door made out of Plexiglass. > It is lighted by a sodium halide light. > Here is the problem: I am getting killed on humidity! I did > not think that keeping the humidity up in this thing was going to be a > problem. Any ideas on what I can do to remedy this situation? One solution is to put a shallow pan of water inside the enclosure. Then, fold up an old sheet so that it is about twice the area of the pan. Drape the sheet over the pan and push the middle of it well into the water. The sheet will wick the water throughout its area and provide a large surface for evaporation. You'll need to fill the pan with water every so often. This works for my enclosure, which isn't as "hermetic" as yours seems to be. Perry Malouf ################### From: Perry Malouf Date: Thu, 25 Jan 1996 13:32:22 -0500 (EST) Subject: Botanique integrity Steve Lanham wrote: > ...can someone please tell me if Orgel's Orchids and > Botanlque nursery are good soruces of CP... I don't > want a repeat of peter pauls service. I can attest to the integrity of Botanique nursery from personal experience. I have recommended them widely to anyone who has asked, and have never received a complaint. Quite the contrary, I have always heard accolades. I don't think you'll be disappointed. Perry Malouf ################### From: CBREWER%6200%FCDSSA@hercules.nswses.navy.mil Date: Thu, 25 Jan 96 11:05:55 -30000 Subject: re:droseras, droplets In response to Lee's question on droseras droplets, try increasing their exposure to light. I keep my droseras exposed to (at least) 16 hours of light per day with outstanding results. The dorseras that are in a state of dormancy receive only natural light of approx 10 hours of light per day, but the other droseras that are subtropical/tropical, will benefit from extended exposure to both artificial and sun light. You will find that the longer your plants are exposed to light, the bigger the droplets will be. If all else fails, take a mister full of rainwater and mist them. It doesn't hurt the the plant, in fact, it actually benefiters them and you will have instant BIG droplets. Charles in Virginia ################### From: Clarke Brunt Date: Wed, 24 Jan 1996 18:36:11 +0000 Subject: Re: cp and millipedes On 23 Jan 96 at 16:57, Alan C. Skousen wrote: > I bought three common specimans: Sarracenia Purpurea, Vft, and a sundew > which the nursery (Gubler) labeled Drosera Rotundifolia but the actual > plant has elongated leaves not the round pads. Anybody want to hazard > a guess as to which speciman it is? D. intermedia perhaps - my plants of this remained fairly small, and did not really prove up to surviving outside in the UK - I might now have lost them. Or perhaps even D. capensis, but this is much larger, and not very hardy at all - very easy to grow and propagate from seed though. -- Clarke Brunt (clarke@brunt.demon.co.uk) ################### From: barry@as.arizona.edu (Barry Meyers-Rice) Date: Thu, 25 Jan 1996 13:57:07 -0700 Subject: Plant Talk I have stumbled across a nice publication that may be of interest to those on this group. The magazine is a quarterly called Plant Talk. This magazine describes itself as... ``A magazine designed for all who are interested in the conservation of plants. Whether you are an expert or a beginner in plant conservation, Plant Talk will keep you in touch with new activities, developments, and techniques around the world. '' A sampling of articles from this issue includes... What _really_ is biodiveristy? Effects of the Great Dam of China Moves to protect unique flora of Hawai'i German trade in medicinal plants Nature in porcelain Sri Lanka's rare and endemic plants Micropropagation Britain's anti-extinction taskforce South Africa's rarest shrub lives! +newsbriefs, reviews, new floras, etc. Subscriptions are 15 pounds, 25 US$, SFr 30 or DM 37 for individual subscriptions (organizations somewhat more). A FREE ISSUE can be had for the asking. I've read through the last two issues and am impressed. I've subscribed. Plant Talk P.O. Box 400 Richmond Surrey TW10 7XJ United Kingdom or Plant Talk P.O. Box 65226 Tucson, AZ 85728-5226 USA ################### From: "Demetrio Lamzaki" Date: Thu, 25 Jan 96 21:30:01 UT Subject: Plant Color and Light LT>I'm quite amazed by the difference between the indoor and outdoor LT>VFT's - the one outside has short leaves and big red traps, and LT>the indoor one has long wide leaves with big green traps Welcome to the list Len. I've had a similar experience with a Drosera binata. At first I kept it indoors on a windowsill. It had pale green foliage with pink tentacles. The leaves were stretched out horizontally. It definitely needed more light. I put it outside, and the change was dramatic. The leaves turned a deep red, while the tentacles became an even darker shade of maroon. The new foliage was bolt upright resembling an army of marching tuningforks! It looked like an entirely different plant. Of course it also depends on genetics, this binata had a factor for a deep red color if given enough light, some plants will stay green no matter what light you put them in. Regards, Demetrios ################### From: Hector Wong-Chan Date: Thu, 25 Jan 1996 12:55:30 -1000 Subject: Re: CP digest 601 Dear system operato, Please unsubscribe me. I am changing accounts. ################### From: Ricell@aol.com Date: Thu, 25 Jan 1996 18:15:32 -0500 Subject: Cat repellant I don't know if this would be applicable for you but...I've known people who have had good luck keeping cats from using their gardens as litter boxes by putting a layer of lava stone around the garden and on the surface. Seems that they don't like the way it feels on their feet. ################### From: DMaupin738@aol.com Date: Thu, 25 Jan 1996 20:41:37 -0500 Subject: The web page. Hi everyone, Has anybody tried the CP web page lately? I keep getting error messages from my browser. At first I thought it was just busy but now I'm not so sure. The address I have is http://www.hpl.hp.com/bot/cp_home Is this correct? Thanks, Doug ################### From: DAVIDDOG@aol.com Date: Fri, 26 Jan 1996 03:50:53 -0500 Subject: Re: Fynbos As I was able to research the term, fynbos refers to the vegetation or habitat type found in the South Western Cape of Good Hope ( South Africa ). It is typified by a low shubby vegetation composed of ericacious heaths and other subshrubs and is distinct from grassland. A typical fynbos resident has closely-packed evergreen leaves, is wind-resistant and often fire-resistant. Most of the fynbos gets is major rain ( 25 to 90 inches/year ) in winter and most of its plants grow then as the temperatures are mild. Humidity is high all year and frosts are light and confined to late winter ( July and August ). As a habitat type, it is roughly equivalent to the Mediterranean macchia. Botanically yours, David ################### From: /G=Loyd/S=Wix/OU=1890CHPI/O=TMGB.URC/@LANGATE.gb.sprint.com Date: Fri, 26 Jan 1996 03:57:00 -0500 Subject: Re.P.gypsicola From Loyd.Wix@URCGB.SPRINT.COM Pinguicula gypsicola is one of the last Pinguicula to recommence growth following winter. The 'resting buds' of this species are more of a flattened rosette rather than truely bud like such as in P.grandiflora and co or some other Mexicans like P.acuminata. The first signs of the plant breaking dormancy is a slight reddening in colour of the very centre of the rosette - some other Mexicans such as the burried/partially burried P.moranensis forms also display this. I would not recommend trying to pull the 'bud' open unless of course you want to take some leaf cuttings 8-). Hope this helps. Loyd. ################### From: Peter Cole Date: Thu, 25 Jan 1996 23:17:44 GMT Subject: Re: P. gypsicola bertozzi.terry@wpo.pi.sa.gov.au writes: > A question for the Pinguiculaphiles; > > I have a P. gypsicola which I acquired about 6 months ago as a resting > bud, which is still a resting bud. The rest of my mexican Pings have > begun to grow and some have flowered. Does P. gypsicola just have a > long dormant period or am I obviously doing something wrong? > > Any suggestions would be helpful IME it is the photoperiod rather than the temperature that controls the dormancy - under lights it stays active above 10 hrs, and forms a resting bud at less than this, even at 'indoor' temperatures. So I should think that it is your latitude that will govern how long a dormancy it will go for in natural light. Skipping the dormancy doesn't seem to do any harm. Hope this helps, Peter ################### From: steiger@iae.unibe.ch (Juerg Steiger) Date: Fri, 26 Jan 1996 11:19:50 +0000 Subject: Re: Re.P.gypsicola Loyd > of the very centre of the rosette - some other Mexicans such > as the burried/partially burried P.moranensis forms also What do you mean by 'burried'? (With rough margine - which my plants don't have? Hidden (buried with one 'r') in the substrate which my winter rosettes aren't either?). As beeing not of english mother tongue I couldn't figure it out. Juerg ___________________________________________________ Juerg Steiger, Institut fuer Aus-, Weiter- und Fortbildung IAWF University of Bern, Inselspital 37a, CH-3010 Bern, Switzerland Office: ++41 31 632 98 87, Fax: ++41 31 632 98 71 ################### From: cpowell@mojave.wr.usgs.gov (Charles Powell) Date: Fri, 26 Jan 96 06:37:54 PST Subject: Re: CP and Tadpoles Hi Folks This last spring I experienced tadpoles and Adrovanda together and here are my observations. After the tadpoles finished off the alagae in my tub they started in on the Aldrovanda - they don't prefer it but they will eat it. I had plants that were 2 to 3 inches long, but after a couple of weeks with tadpoles and no algae I only had 1/2" long well eaten plants. After this the tadpoles developed into frogs and the plants completely recovered in a realtively short time. But I think if the tadpoles hadn't developed into frogs then I might have lost some of my Androvanda. Think about it. Chuck =================================== Charles Powell, II U. S. Geological Survey, MS 915 345 Middlefield Rd. Menlo Park, CA 94025 Tel.: 415-329-4985 E-mail: cpowell@mojave.wr.usgs.gov =================================== ################### From: "Morpeth, David" Date: Fri, 26 Jan 1996 15:18:53 GMT Subject: hardy cp's this is a query aimed at uk growers of carnivorous plants as it refers to climate etc. i was wondering what success fellow cp growers have had in this country (uk) growing species outside. a general 'list' would be appreciated, as i wish to grw some in an artificial bog. the benefit i have is that it will be based on a fork lift pallet and can therefore be put inside a glasshouse to overwinter and hence avoid harsh frosts. any comments/suggestions would be greatfully received thanks in advance. dave morpeth writtle college chelmsford ################### From: STEELMAN@SERC.SI.EDU Date: Fri, 26 Jan 1996 11:56:32 -0500 (EST) Subject: RE: Botanique integrity (2) I have also received plants from Botanique Nursery. I found the plants to be healthy and the people there helpful and friendly. Tim Steelman steelman@serc.si.edu ################### From: Steve Lanham Date: Fri, 26 Jan 96 11:31:45 -0800 Subject: VFT blooming Hello from a new user I need some help if you will be so kind. I have replanted my new and one old vfn into a ten gal container. For the past 4 years the old fly trap has sent up a flower stalk but just as the flower starts to split open it turns black and the stalk dies. Now the live moss has lowerd the ph to 5.7 is this right?? will it let the vft bloom and set seed? the old ph was 6.9. any help would be greatly appreciated. Steve I Lanham ST Louis Missouri ################### From: R5M@aol.com Date: Fri, 26 Jan 1996 14:56:46 -0500 Subject: Re: Cat repellant In a message dated 96-01-25 19:15:11 EST, you write: >putting a layer of >lava stone around the garden and on the surface. Good! Inert, non-toxic and decorative. What a great idea. Hope it works. ################### From: /G=Loyd/S=Wix/OU=1890CHPI/O=TMGB.URC/@LANGATE.gb.sprint.com Date: Fri, 26 Jan 1996 12:21:00 -0500 Subject: Buried not burried! From Loyd.Wix@URCGB.SPRINT.COM Juerg >What do you mean by 'burried'? (With rough margine - >which my plants don't have? Hidden (buried with one 'r') >in the substrate which my winter rosettes aren't either?). >As beeing not of english mother tongue I couldn't figure it >out. Sorry for the incorrect spelling I meant buried as in hidden in the ground. Some forms of P.moranensis fairly new to cultivation have winter rosettes that are partially or almost totally hidden underground such as 'Kirkbright' 'El Chico' and 'Guerrero'. The more commonly grown forms of P.moranensis form the typical winter rosettes that are similar to the rosette of Sempervivum (house leak) - these rosettes are not buried. Regards Loyd ################### From: Clarke Brunt Date: Thu, 25 Jan 1996 20:44:55 +0000 Subject: Re: Intro + questions On 24 Jan 96 at 11:54, Len Trigg wrote: > Which leads me to a question. I see people here stating "My > humidity is X%" - what I want to know is how do you measure the > humidity to get a number like X? 'Officially' you use a wet/dry bulb thermometer - two thermometers, one of which has a wick and a water reservoir to keep the 'bulb' surrounded by the moist wick. The evaporation of the water (more the lower the humidity it) cools this one. You take the temperature, and the difference between the two readings, and look it up in a table to get the humidity. For less fuss, there are gauges which give a direct reading - they must use a strip of something which reacts to moisture. I have one together with a barometer in the house - it's reading 43% at the moment (today was cold and dry here in England). -- Clarke Brunt (clarke@brunt.demon.co.uk) ################### From: CBelan9630@aol.com Date: Sat, 27 Jan 1996 07:59:51 -0500 Subject: P. gypicola and others (new thread) I also just aquired a P. gypsicola as well as a P. agnata x P.gypsicola in the hopes that at long last I would be able to grow them. I have killed my fare share of Pings since I started grwoing CP. For some reason, I just could not grow them. First, what soil requirements need to be met? I received the plants in a pot with a peat/sphagnum mix, I plan to change this to a 3:2 perlite/vermiculite mix. Will this be fine or should I add some other components. They are also dormant so I plan to keep the P. gypsicola bone dry, what about the agnata x gypsicola hybrid? And one other question, what is the maximum temperature range that the plants can tolerate in the summer? If I receive any other mexican Pings is a perlite/vermiculite mix ok or should I use another mix. Thanks for any help. Christoph ################### From: sportman@students.wisc.edu Date: Sat, 27 Jan 1996 08:35:18 -0600 Subject: Re: U quelchii Regarding the thread on U quelchii from last week... I'm no expert on Utricularias, but I have grown a number of Masdevallia orchids which grow in wet epiphytic environments in the pretty much the same habitat, elevation and light levels as many epiphytic utricularias. Masdevallias are *very* temperature sensitive - they don't like temperatures over 85, and generally do best when maintained at between 60 and 75. There's lots of variation between species... but they tend to prefer a 24hr temperature difference of 15 degrees or so, and very uniform conditions. The following temperature chart is reproduced with permission from Margaret and Charles Baker, and was first posted to the Orchid List Digest. It gives an idea of the daily and seasonal temperature changes in a mid-altitude (1400 meter) cloud forest in the northern Andes...the sort of place where lots of Utrics and Masdevallias grow together. It may help in determining the optimum growing temperatures for these plants. Again, it may not. CLIMATE: Station #84265, Loja, Ecuador, Lat. 4.0S, Long. 79.4W, at 4062 ft. (1238 m). Temperatures are calculated for an elevation of 4600 ft. (1400 m), resulting in probable extremes of F (C) and F (C). N/HEMISPHERE JAN FEB MAR APR MAY JUN JUL AUG SEP OCT NOV DEC F AVG MAX 82 83 84 83 84 85 83 81 82 82 82 82 F AVG MIN 64 63 62 62 61 63 63 63 63 63 62 62 DIURNAL RANGE 18 20 22 21 23 22 20 18 19 19 20 20 RAIN/INCHES 0.2 0.2 0.1 1.3 0.7 0.5 0.9 1.7 1.4 2.1 1.0 0.2 [Note: available moisture is much greater due to condensation from constant fog and mist. Other cloud forests experience more actual rainfall.] HUMIDITY/% N/A [probably 80% or greater, with daily periods of 100%] DAYS CLR N/A RAIN/MM 5 5 3 33 18 13 23 43 36 53 25 5 C AVG MAX 27.8 28.3 28.9 28.3 28.9 29.4 28.3 27.2 27.8 27.8 27.8 27.8 C AVG MIN 17.8 17.3 16.8 16.8 16.2 17.3 17.3 17.3 17.3 17.3 16.8 16.8 DIURNAL RANGE 10.0 11.0 12.1 11.5 12.7 12.1 11.0 9.9 10.5 10.5 11.0 11.0 S/HEMISPHERE JUL AUG SEP OCT NOV DEC JAN FEB MAR APR MAY JUN Scott Portman Madison WI ################### From: "Demetrio Lamzaki" Date: Sat, 27 Jan 96 20:23:53 UT Subject: Conservatory of Flowers ML>I will be in San Francisco from February 3rd through the 9th. Are ML>there any CP displays or habitats near San Francisco that I can visit? Mark, unfortunately the Conservatory of Flowers in Golden Gate Park, a huge impressive Victorian greenhouse modeled after London's Kew Gardens that housed a beautiful display of Nepenthes hanging over a lilypad pool, was severely damaged in a freak storm packing hurricane strength winds that we had here on December 12th. 90% of the glass panels were broken. A one hundred + year old Philodendrum that reached to the top of the central dome was lost to the cold. There are still massive amounts of fallen trees littering the park that have yet to be removed, it was the worst storm in memory. At first they thought they would have to tear down the Conservatory. The Orchid Society is having a show to raise money for its repairs in late February at Fort Mason. U.C. Berkeley has a botanical garden that many BACPS meetings are held in, it has a CP display. Enjoy San Francisco. Regards, Demetrios ################### From: Randall Palmer Date: Sat, 27 Jan 1996 15:29:18 -0500 (EST) Subject: Re: CP digest 603 When I plant a Ping, I find some common dirt and plant the plant in that. In my past I've found Canadian peat to rich and the ping gets real green and then becomes super moist and becomes slime. Right now my pings are about 4 to 5" above the top of my bowl of water. Randy Palmer sfdzeqe0@scfn.thpl.lib.fl.us ################### From: R5M@aol.com Date: Sat, 27 Jan 1996 16:18:15 -0500 Subject: Re: Conservatory of Flowers The Conservatory of Flowers was in serious disrepair way before the storm. It was a patch here and patch there at best. Most of it was made from wood and was giving up to dry (wet?) rot. The storm brought it the attention it needed and maybe now something will be done about it. This is unfortunately the drawback of our political process. One mayor pays attention the next cuts the funds. When the place is ruined, then everyone gets involved. Becky ################### From: Randy Lamb Date: Sat, 27 Jan 1996 14:06:45 +0000 Subject: introduction at 43 below Hey, I'm finally here! Reasonable internet and Email prices finally reached northern Canada so now I can join in on the CP discussion groups I've heard about in letters for several years. Here's a really big hello to all of you that I've visited with or written to over the past decade, give me a shout on Email. Those of you who I don't know.. well let's see... I'll try to keep this as short as possible. I've been a CP enthusiast for about 20 years and I originally joined up with the CPN as a teenager back when they had those photocopied 8.5 x 11 inch black and white issues. I grew up near the westcoast of Canada close to Vancouver, BC and spent a lot of time exploring the natural bogs and wetlands along the "Pacific Northwest". This hobby went on to the stage where I tried to grow every type of CP I could find and soon had my fathers greenhouse crammed from floor to ceiling with CP. After learning the joys of CP propagation I ran out of space and had to give away some and sell the rest of my surplus through ads in the local newspapers and on bulletin boards in libraries and laundromats. Soon I met about a dozen other CP'ers in Vancouver and then we found more good people down in Washington state... and a regional CP club was born in the late 80's. After university I started a 5 year stint as a mosquito biologist in Canada's Yukon Territory but still spent my autumns and winters in Vancouver where CP field trips and get togethers were happening very couple of months. In the early 1990's I moved permanently (for now anyways) to Whitehorse, Yukon where I do habitat and vegetation interpretation work for the Yukon Government Agriculture Branch. My home is a few hundred metres from the Yukon River, the Alaska Highway is about 10 minutes from here and the "Marge of Lake Laberge - where they cremated Sam Mcgee" is about30 kilometres down river. I have two greenhouses out back with about 1/4 devated to CP in the summer. Harder water, lower humidity and cool temperatures makes CP's a real challenge up here so now the collection is made up of the more hardy varieties. I'll leave the rest to personal Email messages. Again, hi to my old friends, I don't have your Email addresses yet so let me know what they are and I'll be in touch. If someone can let me know the command to receive the Email address list for the CP discussion group members I would appreciate it. I'll send you a message next week Fernando, thanks for the christmas card Juerg, I owe you a long overdue letter Hawkeye and let me know how the PNWCP'ers are doing Kevin and Laurence. It was 44 below zero outside earlier this morning (groan, whine) and I've got to go stoke the fire again and catch the bus downtown to get some groceries. Chow Folks, from Randy (I wish it was warm enough to ski)Lamb. ################### From: JRoegner@aol.com Date: Sat, 27 Jan 1996 19:44:50 -0500 Subject: Botanique's Address ? Fellow Carnivores ! How about posting the address of Botanique Nursery here and the e-mail address if they have one. Thanks again ! Joe Roegner ################### From: klmott@planetx.bloomu.edu (Kristin L. Mott) Date: Sat, 27 Jan 1996 20:06:50 -0500 Subject: Re: P. gypicola and others (new thread) Christoph, I have heard lots of people swear by the vermiculite/pearlite mix but I don't use anything close. I just get standard greenhouse trays and put an inc of stone at the bottom for drainage. Then I put down a layer of mulch. Since there are large gaps in the mulch I put a layer of 50/50 peat sand down to level it off a bit. I just plant the plants in the trays and they grow like crazy. Most are coming out of dormancy now and I don't even think any of the pings need to be kept dry during dormancy. My P. gypsicola plants don't seem to care anyway :) I grow them all under shop lights and most are varying shades of pink or dark green. I wouldn't mind aquiring more of these fine plants and if anyone is interested in trading, please write me at: klmott2planetx.bloomu.edu I previously had problems growing mexicans and this works very well for me. If anything needs further clarification let me know and I hope this helps. Take care & keep on growing, -Tom- & Krissy ################### From: klmott@planetx.bloomu.edu (Kristin L. Mott) Date: Sat, 27 Jan 1996 20:25:56 -0500 Subject: Re: P. gypicola and others (new thread) I see i have been having problems with my shift key and my address is supposed to be : klmott@planetx.bloomu.edu I look forward to hearing from anyone interested in trading. take care & keep on growing, -Tom- & Krissy ################### From: Kevin Snively Date: Sat, 27 Jan 1996 18:42:51 -0800 (PST) Subject: Re: Dave Wong (fwd) Those people Know David he has moved back home to Vancouver B.C. and this is the fastest way to tell everyone. ---------- Forwarded message ---------- To: ksnive@premier1.net Kevin, To cut a long story short (I'm in a hurry - watching "Judge Dredd"), Dave Wong called a while ago and said he's back for good. Please spread the news all around that he needs plants, yes, PLANTS... Lots of it because he's got to virtually start over. He does have Neps seeds and some plants arriving. Please let Tom, Andrew, and other grandmasters know. All the best Laurence ################### From: Clarke Brunt Date: Fri, 26 Jan 1996 23:39:57 +0000 Subject: Re: The web page. On 25 Jan 96 at 17:47, DMaupin738@aol.com wrote: > Has anybody tried the CP web page lately? I keep getting error messages from > my browser. At first I thought it was just busy but now I'm not so sure. The > address I have is http://www.hpl.hp.com/bot/cp_home Is this correct? I probably won't be the first to post, but if you have trouble with www.hpl.hp.com (host not found), then try the numerical form instead http://192.6.19.66/bot/cp_home For some reason, the name servers often seem unable to locate it by name. -- Clarke Brunt (clarke@brunt.demon.co.uk) ################### From: Fernando Rivadavia Lopes Date: Sun, 28 Jan 1996 08:59:41 -0300 (GRNLNDST) Subject: European Trip (2) .......Continuation My next stop on the trip was England. I spent the 1st day studying herbarium at Kew. There wasn't much TYPE material of interest to me, but there were many and varied interesting CP collections. On my 2nd day in England there was the CP meeting at Reading, and I was met at the trainstation by another longtime correspondant of mine, Joe Mullins from Ireland (Hi Joe!) who is know working with Nepenthes phylogeny at Reading and housed my for 2 nights. Though if I remember well, we spent most of these 2 nights talking about CPs until late. That is, after spending part of the nights out with a friend of mine who lives in London, Angela Salmon, sister of Bruce Salmon, our fellow kiwi CPer and Nepenthes specialist who housed me when I was in New Zealand 2 and 1/2 years ago. Anyways, at Reading we had the meeting and I showed my slides again to the British CPers, after a flattering intro by Loyd Wix (Hi Loyd!), whom I knew from this list. Before and after the meeting, I had a great time talking with everyone present. I guess what I most loved about the meeting were the beautiful CPs which had been brought to the meeting for sale. Stan Lampard's beautiful selection of Mexican Pinguicula in full bloom most caught my attention. On Sunday I spent the afternoon visiting the famous Kew Gardens together with Joe Mullins and Angela Salmon. It wasn't a good time of year to see the CPs, but I was really impressed with the greenhouses as a whole. On Monday morning I took a quick look through the Drosera herbarium collections at Reading. Unfortunately, time was short though, I had to get to the mainland. On Tuesday afternoon I arrived at Thomas Carow's (Hi Thomas!), after having a few problems with trains both in England and Germany. Thomas grows CPs and sells them all over Germany. His CP collection is really fantastic (beautiful S.African Drosera, which I'd never seen live before) and I was also fascinated with all his slides. He's not only been to most of the interesting CP regions in the world, but he's also a fantastic photographer. I was delirious with his slides on Mexican Pings, CPs in S.Africa, CPs in Australia, and even the ones he took when he came to Brazil 11 years ago. He went to a town called Diamantina in the state of Minas Gerais, where I've gone CP hunting twice. Amazingly, we both found Drosera species that the other didn't find. It just makes me wonder if all other places I've visited in Brazil are just as badly explored. One of the most thrilling moments of my stay with Thomas was probably the sight of a mysterious Drosera which he collected near Diamantina. He'd sent me a picture of it, but I had never been able to say for sure what it was. Thomas called it D.sp."golden leaf" and it looked like a small D.villosa with golden leaves, forming a short column of dead leaves. If the plant hadn't been in flower, I would've thought it was probably some form of D.villosa, but the flower scape I saw just threw my chin right down to the floor! I looked like a new species, but Thomas told me it had never produced seeds in these past 11 years, so it was most likely a hybrid. But a hybrid between which species?!? Observing the giant, hairy flower scapes, I'm almost sure one of the parents is D.graminifolia "spiralis form" which grows in the Diamantina region and also has a golden color. But the other parent is still a confusing matter in my mind. I keep trying to think what species crossed with D.graminifolia could give those characteristics. Not a simple job since some characteristics like the giant flower size seem to be a result of hybrid vigour, while others like the small stipules seem to be a nullification of very prominent features of the D.graminifolia parent. Anyways, Thomas' specialty are the animals which thrive on CPs and I was amazed to learn of the diversity of these adaptations. He's even discovered new species of arthropods which explore CPs and his slides are simply magnificent. He's preparing a program on this for German TV, which will hopefully also have an English translation soon after it's release in April. One of the things I remember best are the ants which walk calmly down the internal walls of Nepenthes pitchers and then dive into the liquid inside to fish out mosquito larvae!! Fantastic! Thomas has attempted to rear many of these animals in his CP collection and I was fortunate to see beautiful green spiders walking around on his large Roridula. I hope I was able to convince Thomas to put some of his slides on the 'net for all of you to get a taste of his great work. Time was short though, and I only spent a day with Thomas. He drove me over to Tuebingen, where I finally met THE Dr.Jan Schlauer, THE reference for all of our CP literature-related doubts, a true living library. We were soon joined by Joachim Nertz, one of the members of the intrepid German CP explorer group, who've travelled several times to SE Asia in search of rare Neps and even to the tepuis of the Roraima Highlands, at a time when not many people were going there yet. I spent 2 fantastic days with Jan and Joachim (Hi to both!), discussing dozens of taxonomic issues with Jan (mostly regarding S.American Drosera) and trading field experiences with Joachim. We went to Joachim's house not far from Tuebingen where I saw his beautiful Neps and TONS of slides from his trips. I couldn't stop!! We were joined by Mathias (Hi Mathias, sorry I can't remember, much less spell, your last name, though I saw you've been leaving a few messages on the 'net lately) and we later went to his house to see his Neps, when we could finally pull ourselves away from Joe's immense and amazing slide archive. My last stop was Mannheim, where I stayed with Andreas Wistuba (Hi Andreas!), another of the famous German CP explorers. Again I had a ball seeing slides and more slides of CPs in the wild, specially Andreas' beautiful shots from Roraima. His Nep + Heliamphora collection was most amazing and I keep wondering how he manages to maintain it all, including his vast tissue culture activities! Shelves and shelves of jars with dozens and dozens of species. I was really surprised to see how all the Germans seem to be into tissue culture and was happy to see a few jars containing CPs originated from my seeds. The German meeting was held near Peter's place in Heidelberg (Hi Peter, I don't know if you're on the 'net, but sorry I can't remember how to spell your last name either!) and I was surprised with a really long and interesting question/answer session after my slide show. That day, like at the Italian and British CP meetings, I met dozens of great people, but am already having a hard time trying to put names to faces, unfortunately. I think I was able to contaminate at least a few Germans, hopefully British and Italians too, into coming down to Brazil to see CPs and some of the fantastic landscapes I showed. One thing with which I really identified with the Germans was their immense field experience, though their adventures really made mine seem like a day at kindergarden during summer vacation!! They really have the adventurous blood in them and I was thrilled to see how much they love nature. What was most surprising to me though was that on these trips of theirs to SE Asia, they are often accompanied by their girlfriends! I have a hard enough time trying to find ANYONE down here willing (and fit) to follow along on my trips around Brazil, much less girls who are even slightly thrilled by my CP interests!!! Anyways, I sure hope to be able to join Andreas, Joachim, and others on future trips of theirs to SE Asia and hopefully also Roraima. This way I could probably get them to notice more those smaller CPs which they usually trample in their search for Neps and Heliamphora, right guys?! I'd like to thank once again everybody who housed and fed me, who carried me around, who organized the meetings, and who was present at these meetings. It was a fantastic experience for me to meet so many of you CPers. Hope I didn't leave anyone or anything out. I'm still a bit confused, since I haven't had time to organize myself since I got back. If I did, please tell me, especially if I'm owing someone a message. I'm almost sure I left a few messages unanswered when I left for this trips. Sorry, but I was in total chaos trying to organize this trip, trying to graduate at university (yes, it's finally over!), and putting together the last missing pieces for my scholarship to spend the next 2 years in Japan. So please write to me if you're one of these people and sorry for the mess. At the moment I'm feeling really nostalgic, thinking of all of my new friends, which are unfortunately so far away. At least a few of you are on the 'net, and e-mail sure makes the world a lot smaller. Thanks everybody for the great time!!!! A great '96 to all! Fernando Rivadavia Sao Paulo, Brazil ################### From: Rik.Palmans@ping.be (Rik Palmans) Date: Sun, 28 Jan 1996 16:57:19 +0100 Subject: Re: Fynbos Richard Cowling and David Richardson published in October 1995 'Fynbos -- South Africa's Unique Floral Kingdom'. I don't know the book but I saw it in the catalogue of Natural History Book Service Ltd. You may find more information on their online catalogue: http://www.nhbs.co.uk. ################### From: Kevin Snively Date: Sun, 28 Jan 1996 08:54:46 -0800 (PST) Subject: Re: Fynbos This is from "Kwongan Plant Life of the Sandplain." Edited by Pate and Beard for a conference dealing with Mediterranean Terrestrial Ecosystems held in Perth during the mid 1980's. As far as I'm concerned it is still required reading for any one who wants to understand the cultivation of Tuberous, Pygmy, or African Drosera. It defines the following as being approximately equal terms; Kwongan (Australia), chaparral (California), maquis (Med. Europe), matorral (Chile), and fynbos (South Africa) all have the same approx. meaning, similar plants, rains, seasons, soils, fires, ect... I'm familiar with chaparral of southern California. Been there, done that. Draw the parallel to that which you know. krs ################### From: Pekka Ala-Siuru Date: Mon, 29 Jan 1996 09:40:10 +0200 (EET) Subject: Re: European Trip (2) .. Fernando, do you really mean ..herbarium at Kew.. For my knowledge herbarium is a collection of dead plants ;) ..Pekka ______________________________________________________ Pekka Ala-Siuru Senior Analyst, Embedded Knowledge-Based Systems VTT Electronics, P.O.Box 1100, FIN-90571, Oulu,Finland Tel. +358 81 551 2461, Telefax +358 81 551 2320 http://www.ele.vtt.fi/ ################### From: Nexus User elliott Date: Mon, 29 Jan 1996 18:58:39 +1030 Subject: Double Trap on VFT !?!? All, I have just noticed TWO of my plants with double traps, and having visited the Web page, I read that Rick Walker has had one of his plants do this, and he considers it rare. One of the plants is growing in good light in my green house, and is sitting in about 1-2 inches of water, in a 3 inch pot (Must get around to repotting most of them!), and has some light to medium red traps, and a few quite green. It flowered at the beggining of the year, but I cut it off, along with all the others, as I didn't want to set my plants back at all. The second plant is also growing in good light, but most of its traps are green, or slightly yellow. This plant is sitting in about 1 inch of water, and also flowered. The trap on this plant is the most malformed. I appears to "split" about 5mm along the leaf, and form into two traps. The other plant just produced them back to back. Some of my other plants, under furthur observation, have more than three trigger hairs per lobe! What on earth am I doing to produce such mutants!? Bye For Now, Russell Elliott P.S. My address has changed back to elliott@nexus.edu.au ################### From: Isao Takai Date: Mon, 29 Jan 1996 20:44:38 +0900 Subject: Heliamphora seeds Dear In-vitro workers, Dear All, to All, About the distribution of Heliamphora seeds Some members may have felt "that I.Takai is exclusive". My purpose is the following. I saw interesting plants in CPN app.10 years ago. However, I have never seen a lot of plants in them actually yet. I think that there is some cause in it. The growing of the plant is difficult for the nature. Likewise, it is difficult to multiply. I think. Its solution is In-vitro work. It is the reason why I had priority over In-vitro workers. In-vitro workers does In-vitro work as a hobby or study(It is due to my interpretation.). Therefore, they (including me) doesn't always have enough$B!!(Jequipments. However, we fall into cp deeply. We multiply Heliamphoras$B!!(Jfor cp-growers in each country. We will make up mutual failure. A few In-vitro workers will export offsprings to your country. If I sow Heliamphoras seeds on the sphagnum, the spread of the Heliamphoras will be delay in for equal to or more than 10 years. My ideal: is not:cp-growers competes in the obtaining of rare plants. is:cp-growers competes in the growing technique. If some members understand my act, I am glad. to In-vitro workers & a few members (who gave me a information), Thank you very much for approving of my proposition. I sent the seed to you (who chose one from H.sp from Yuruani and H.sp from Akopan1) on Fri,26 Jan.. I sent the seed to you (who chose one from H.sp Akopan2, H.sp Chimanta, and U.humboldtii Akopan) on Mon,29 Jan. If you don't receive it within 10 days, inform me. Because, 10 days later, I sow my share (In-vitro). Kind regards from Japan Isao P.S. Dear Shing Lam, You sent the information which is good for me. However, my e-mail seems not to reach you. If you are there, please tell me your snail mail address. P.P.S. I hope for my poor English skill not to produce further misunderstanding.  ################### From: terril@aztec.asu.edu (TERRIL L. SHORB) Date: Mon, 29 Jan 1996 08:32:32 -0700 (MST) Subject: unsubscribe Dear folks, I have enjoyed a prolonged lurk here, have gained many valuable insights into the CP world. I am still doing research toward an eventual article on CPs and the people who love them. I'll likely pick up the trail in a few months, but need to say bye for now. Please unsubscribe me and thanks for doing valuable, intriguing work. All best, -- Terril L. Shorb Prescott, Arizona ################### From: hansmh@sn.no (Hans Martin Hanslin) Date: Mon, 29 Jan 1996 18:33:54 +0100 Subject: specimen preservation Jan, wrote: >Do in any case not forget to >preserve specimens (preferably in liquid) of it, so it may eventually be >described validly! What kind of liquid do you recommend? Kind regards Hans M. Hanslin, Trondheim, Norway ################### From: Fernando Rivadavia Lopes Date: Mon, 29 Jan 1996 17:02:39 -0300 (GRNLNDST) Subject: Kew Herbarium Dear Pekka, > .. Fernando, do you really mean ..herbarium at Kew.. > For my knowledge herbarium is a collection of dead plants ;) > ..Pekka > > ______________________________________________________ > Pekka Ala-Siuru > Senior Analyst, Embedded Knowledge-Based Systems > VTT Electronics, P.O.Box 1100, FIN-90571, Oulu,Finland > Tel. +358 81 551 2461, Telefax +358 81 551 2320 > http://www.ele.vtt.fi/ That is exactly what herbarium means, and for those of you who don't know, the Kew Herbarium is one of the biggest in the world. I did spend an afternoon visiting the famous Kew gardens, but most of my time at Kew was spent inside the herbarium, analysing dead plant material. The CP collections at Kew are really fantastic and there was much material of S.American CP species. Unfortunately it is not possible to have all of those millions of herborized species in cultivation. In a herbarium you at least have the chance of seeing species you might never see in cultivation, much less in the wild. Not to mention that many important TYPE herbaria are deposited at places like Kew or Paris, and the importance of studying this material is without measure for botanists. Unfortunately again, in many of these cases the TYPE material is deposited in countries other than that of their origin, as is the case of most of the Brazilian species collected and described by European botanists like Saint Hilaire who visited Brazil early last century. Thus botanists from all over the world, including Brazil, are often forced to travel to Europe to study TYPE material of their native species. It is not always easy to receive these specimens on loan because of their botanical and historic value. Luckily for you Pekka, if you ever need to study herbarium material, you are not that far away from many of the most important herbaria in the world. Not to mention that Europe's railway system makes me green with envy every time I think of the collecting trips I go on, travelling on terrible roads and spending up to 3 days inside old busses, due to the enormous distances here in Brazil. Field collecting is not often as fun much less as safe as many of you may imagine. Fernando Rivadavia Sao Paulo, Brasil ################### From: A.Broome@nzdri.org.nz Date: Tue, 30 Jan 1996 11:05 +1300 (NZDT) Subject: New Orleans, New Orleans, CPers. I'm a long time reader and lurker of this list who is in need of a little assistance. This has (at best) very little CP content. During April/May I'll be visiting the US and intend spending a few days in New Orleans. Sadly it looks like the only times I can be there is during the Jazz and Heritage festival. This is great from an entertainment perspective but less than ideal when it comes to finding a cheap place to stay. Does anyone from the list live in New Orleans? Care to suggest low cost accomodation? Offers of beds/sofas/floors would be perfect :) Is there any CP stuff to see down there? Anybody want to have a meal/drink/chat with a wandering NZer? Private mail is fine, thanks. Andrew. ################### From: Oliver T Massey CFS Date: Mon, 29 Jan 1996 16:55:54 -0500 (EST) Subject: Heliamphora Does anyone have some experience in fertilizing Heliamps. I have easy access to Miracid, of course, if this is a good choice, what would be a good schedule and strength? Thanks in advance for any help. Tom in Fl ################### From: L235@aol.com Date: Mon, 29 Jan 1996 17:27:20 -0500 Subject: Re: Two-trapped VFTs Russel Elliot writes in CP Digest 605: >I have just noticed TWO of my plants with double traps, and >having visited the Web page, I read that Rick Walker has had >one of his plants do this, and he considers it rare. I'm having a tough time visualizing this. Are we talking about two fully-formed traps on one petiole? Or something in between. Late this past summer, I had something similar. One petiole, two partially formed traps (rather than four separate lobes, it was more like two "siamese traps" on one stalk .... they shared a common "inner" lobe, with two sets of teeth, but had two separate "outer" lobes. Perhaps three lobes better describes it than four. It closed, albeit slowly, and seemed at least reasonably functional, although it didn't catch anything during the bug season here in northern Virginia. Jay Lechtman L235@aol.com ################### From: Perry Malouf Date: Mon, 29 Jan 1996 17:27:55 -0500 (EST) Subject: Re: Botanique's Address ? > How about posting the address of Botanique Nursery here and the e-mail > address if they have one. Botanique Nursery Box 1 Route 183 Stanardsville, VA 22973 Perry Malouf ################### From: CK Lee Date: Mon, 29 Jan 1996 14:33:13 -0800 Subject: Any CP growers in Lower Mainland, B.C.? Hello anybody out there, My name is CK and I live in Port Coquitlam, B.C.. I am only a novice in this hobby and I am looking for a veteran/any CPer who is lives in the Lower Mainland that I can talk to or visit his/her collection and perhaps get some advise. If you fit this category, please leave me a message so we can chat. Actually if there are anybody that lives even in Bellingham or Seattle, Tacoma region, I would appreciate your help as well. <<<<<>>>> CKLEE @..@ 0--0 Reebit. Reebit. (----) (----) ( >__< ) _( |__| )_ StereoType Music AG ^^ ~~ ^^ ^^` ~~ `^^ Vancouver, B.C., Canada Frog and Toad "To Infinity and Beyond!" ################### From: TeaLadyPW@aol.com Date: Mon, 29 Jan 1996 22:49:47 -0500 Subject: Venus Flytrap My son is doing a science project. We bought a plant at the local nursery. Any info or tips would be greatly appreciated. TeaLadyPW ################### From: Rick Walker Date: Mon, 29 Jan 1996 20:39:45 -0800 Subject: Juerg Steiger's Photos on WEB 210 of Juerg Steiger's Pinguicula photos have been added to the CP database at http://www.hpl.hp.com/bot/cp_home. -- Rick Walker ################### From: "Michael Hasemann" Date: Tue, 30 Jan 1996 17:05:57 +0200 (EET) Subject: Re: specimen preservation > > Jan, wrote: > > >Do in any case not forget to > >preserve specimens (preferably in liquid) of it, so it may eventually be > >described validly! > > What kind of liquid do you recommend? Howabout, genuine Koskenkorva (you can get it from Systembolaget)? ..Michael > > > Kind regards > Hans M. Hanslin, Trondheim, Norway > > -- Michael Hasemann | Technical Research Centre of Finland - Automation | Kaitovayla 1, P.O. Box 13023, 90571 Oulu, Finland jmh@tko.vtt.fi | Fax: +358 81 5512320 Tel: +358 81 5512239 ################### From: John Walker Date: Tue, 30 Jan 1996 07:04:12 -0800 Subject: Re: Venus Flytrap At 07:54 PM 1/29/96 -0800, you wrote: >My son is doing a science project. We bought a plant at the local nursery. > Any info or tips would be greatly appreciated. > >TeaLadyPW > *********************************************************************** Read the CP FAQ's......click on CP FAQ's link found at the bottom of the WWW CP home page. John Walker jorwa@ix.netcom.com ################### From: Daniel_Tepas@du.maus.de (Daniel Tepas) Date: Mon, 29 Jan 96 19:34:00 GMT Subject: VFT with more than 3 hairs C>have more than three trigger hairs per lobe! This seems to be quite normal, some friends' VFTs and my one have this, too, on larger traps. Ciao, Daniel. ################### From: Jan@pbc-ths1.pci.chemie.uni-tuebingen.de (Jan Schlauer) Date: Mon, 29 Jan 1996 20:03:08 +0100 Subject: Re: specimen preservation Dear Hans, >>Do in any case not forget to >>preserve specimens (preferably in liquid) (...) >What kind of liquid do you recommend? 70% (v/v) ethanol ("purum" grade is sufficient), 3% glycerol in water. Kind regards Jan ################### From: Naphtolih@aol.com Date: Tue, 30 Jan 1996 18:39:49 -0500 Subject: Re: Venus Flytrap when the plant grows leaves, use a spray bottle to spray mist on the leaves. naphtolih ################### From: dave evans Date: Tue, 30 Jan 96 20:12 EST Subject: Re: Re.P.gypsicola > Pinguicula gypsicola is one of the last Pinguicula to > recommence growth following winter. The 'resting buds' of > this species are more of a flattened rosette rather than > truely bud like such as in P.grandiflora and co or some > other Mexicans like P.acuminata. Hi, I seem to have run into something odd. The reason I had said to unwrap the bud is because that's what I had to do to mine. The hybrid agnata * gypsicola made buds about the size of ping-pong balls. Now this sounds nothing at all like the winter buds they made this year which are described above. Last year they made little balls by wrapping the leaves tightly around the center growth point, much like a head of lettuce. Anyone have this happen to theirs? Dave Evans ################### From: Gilles Lardy Date: Wed, 31 Jan 1996 02:27:20 +0100 (MET) Subject: Pinguicula utricularioides Dear All, First of all, I'd like to thank Juerg for his beautiful pictures which, I am sure, will help all of us to cope with the multitude of temperate Ping species. But looking at the pictures, I noticed something. There seems to be a particular tropical species called P. utricularioides. Where does this name come from, and what does this plant look like ? Second question. Fernando, in his European trip 1 story, talked about Juerg Steiger's impressive method for growing CPs. Looking at the cultivated plants on the photos, it seems to be pretty efficient. Juerg, could you please explain the way you grow temperate Pings ? Happy growing, Gilles ***************************** Gilles LARDY E_mail : lardyg7@cti.ecp.fr ################### From: Jan@pbc-ths1.pci.chemie.uni-tuebingen.de (Jan Schlauer) Date: Wed, 31 Jan 1996 11:00:13 +0100 Subject: Re: _Pinguicula utricularioides_ Dear Gilles, > There seems to be a >particular tropical species called P. utricularioides. Where does this name >come from, and what does this plant look like ? _Pinguicula utricularioides_, collected only once and described quite recently by ZAMUDIO & RZEDOWSKI, is rather certainly one of the most spectacular and intriguing species in this genus. It shows at least two "utricularioid" features (reminiscent of _Utricularia_). The first, more obvious one is the leaves of the "summer" (?) rosette which are long petiolate and which have a deeply spoon shaped lamina, almost bladder-like and somewhat resembling _Utricularia_ traps (especially those of the assumedly primitive rosetted members of sectt. Polypompholyx-Pleiochasia) in outline and their position on the plant. The leaves of the "winter" (?) rosette being flat and "normal". The second feature is somewhat more obscre but perhaps more significant regarding systematic affiliations: The (2) lobes of the lower calyx lip are almost entirely fused with each other, a condition we meet again in _Utricularia_ (where both calyx lips consist of the fused lobes). Thus, this species might represent a (close?) descendant from an extinct link between the three lentibulariaceous genera. Note that S Mexico (_P.u._ was found near Niltepec in Oaxaca) is close to areas where all three genera occur together even nowadays (with none of the allegedly most primitive members of _Utricularia_, however). The scarlet red corolla (with a very pronounced tube, like in _P.laueana_) must be rather showy in vivo. Unfortunately, the habitat of _P.u._ is difficult to reach, and this interesting species still awaits introduction into cultivation. Kind regards Jan ################### From: Clarke Brunt Date: Mon, 29 Jan 1996 19:14:28 +0000 Subject: Re: introduction at 43 below On 27 Jan 96 at 14:14, Randy Lamb wrote: > It was 44 below zero outside earlier this morning (groan, whine) I can't remember if Canadians usually deal in degrees F or degrees C? Usually it's obvious which is meant, but at -44, it doesn't make much difference, since the two scales are the same at -40. Just thought you'd all like to be reminded of this useless fact! -- Clarke Brunt (clarke@brunt.demon.co.uk) ################### From: "Paul Temple" Date: Wed, 31 Jan 96 13:44:50 +0000 Subject: Re: CP digest 602 - P. gypsicola (leaf cuttings - how to...) +---------------------------+ TM From: Paul Temple | | | | | | | | Dept: Digital | d | i | g | i | t | a | l | Func: Net Comms | | | | | | | | DTN: 7781-1582 +---------------------------+ Easynet: fangio::temple_p Internet: temple_p@gmt.dec.com Loc/MS: GMT >I would not recommend trying to pull the 'bud' >open unless of course you want to take some leaf cuttings No-one asked but just in case:- In earlier years (when Adrian Slack owned Marston Exotics, propogating P. gypsicola awass a well guarded secret! It might help beginners to know that leaf cuttings are best treated like succulents. Pull off as many leaves (while the plant is a resting bud) as you need for cuttings. Leave the leaves in a warm (not hot) dry place protected from any breezes (or you'll lose the leaves!). After 3 - 7 days, plant t=he leaves as for other Ping leaf cuttings. Place them on top of a layer of pure Vermiculite or Pure Perlite, in either case very fine grade, and keep the Vermiculite/Perlite damp. Each leaf will produce a new plant and you should get better than 90% success rates. Using frshly removed leaves without drying them off gives a far lower success rate. This treatment is very similar to what's done with cacti and succulent cuttings. A trrick that works with cacti and succulents is to paint a newly cut end with nail varnish (any colour unless you worry about colour co-ordination!) Cuttings with painted cut ends can be planted immediately. I've never tried this with Ping leaves but it may be worth a trial, especially for the smaller or more succulent (fleshy) types. ################### From: "Paul Temple" Date: Wed, 31 Jan 96 13:51:01 +0000 Subject: Re: CP digest 603 Re: overwintering CP in the UK +---------------------------+ TM From: Paul Temple | | | | | | | | Dept: Digital | d | i | g | i | t | a | l | Func: Net Comms | | | | | | | | DTN: 7781-1582 +---------------------------+ Easynet: fangio::temple_p Internet: temple_p@gmt.dec.com Loc/MS: GMT Dave I just was forced to overwinter my entire Sarracenia collection (not big but all species represented and several forms of each) outside. The water was allowed to evaporate so theplantrs were damp at best. It rained and then immediately froze so every Sarracenia was standing in two inches of rock solid ice and the actual soil also froze solid. Temperatures were about -6C forabout 3-4 days and then hovered around 0C for weeks. I've now brought most in and all survived. I'm NOT advising Sarracenias should be overwintered outdoors but all of them seem able to withstand some severe frosting. Obviously S. fava andS. purpurea do best as these grow well into Canada where winter is really severe. Incidentaly, I accidentally froze Cephalotus and U. subulata in exactly the same way and they both survived with absolutely no damage whatsoever!!! Regards paul ################### From: "Paul Temple" Date: Wed, 31 Jan 96 13:58:50 +0000 Subject: Re: CP digest 603 +---------------------------+ TM From: Paul Temple | | | | | | | | Dept: Digital | d | i | g | i | t | a | l | Func: Net Comms | | | | | | | | DTN: 7781-1582 +---------------------------+ Easynet: fangio::temple_p Internet: temple_p@gmt.dec.com Loc/MS: GMT Christoph >3:2 perlite/vermiculite mix That sounds fine for most tropical (non-temperate Pings) as a starter. Some prefer added lime (e.g. P. heterophylla) but the acid tolerant plants seem not to minda neutral soil. >I plan to keep the P. gypsicola bone dry I know all the books advise this but I keep mine slightly damp. As long as you check regularly, dry is fine. Add a little water if the resting bud shrivels up (shrinks) after it has reached its dormancy size). You'll know it, it looks as if it is shrinking too much! >What is the maximum temperature range that the plants can tolerate in the >summer? My plants tolerate 120F which is hot! I guess they can stand almost any temperature (hot, not cold!) as long as the light is indirect (direct light will burn if it is also hot like sunlight) and as long as their is a regular(constant) supply of water. Regards Paul ################### From: "Paul Temple" Date: Wed, 31 Jan 96 14:25:26 +0000 Subject: Re: CP digest 606 Re: VFT double traps on leaves +---------------------------+ TM From: Paul Temple | | | | | | | | Dept: Digital | d | i | g | i | t | a | l | Func: Net Comms | | | | | | | | DTN: 7781-1582 +---------------------------+ Easynet: fangio::temple_p Internet: temple_p@gmt.dec.com Loc/MS: GMT Many many years ago I reported a double headed VFT to the UK's CP Society (CPS). I think it was the then chairman John Sirkett who explained that this freak or monstrosity is a result of a local change. i.e. it's not reproducible using any form of propogation technique. It seems to occur as a result of a sudden shock to the lef as it develops. This could be a rather sudden temperature change, maybe an insect bite at just the wrong time and place, etc., etc.. I don't believe anyone has ever succeeded in deliberately creating or instigating this sort of growth. It remains a "mystery of nature" (did I really say that - ugh!). It does result in a leaf where you get the normal flat leaf surface (lamina) and two actual traps, both fully operational, sitting together, side by side, at the end of the leaf surface just where you'd expect to find a single trap. So, amazingly enough, you can get weird VFT's, as if they weren't already weird enough!!! Regards Paul ################### From: "Paul Temple" Date: Wed, 31 Jan 96 14:47:33 +0000 Subject: Michael Hausseman +---------------------------+ TM From: Paul Temple | | | | | | | | Dept: Digital | d | i | g | i | t | a | l | Func: Net Comms | | | | | | | | DTN: 7781-1582 +---------------------------+ Easynet: fangio::temple_p Internet: temple_p@gmt.dec.com Loc/MS: GMT Aplogies to all - this mail is just for Michel Hausseman in Finland who I can't mail! Michael My mail should work now. Reply to my mail address as shown immediately above. I sent you the following but it bounced: >I hope this mail gets to you! >No, I've not had time to ID the Urics but I hope to start soon. The >Turions are indicative of species so it may be possible to use them to >ID the plants. My friend (Martin Cheek) at Kew is also willing to help >if I need. Regards Paul ################### From: steiger@iae.unibe.ch (Juerg Steiger) Date: Wed, 31 Jan 1996 15:40:38 +0000 Subject: Pinguicula cultivation Gilles Lardy asked >Juerg, could you please explain the way you grow temperate Pings ? In the sixties I started with the usual 'horizontal' cultivation (clay pots, plastic containers and the like). Due to lack of place I then switched to a system of 45 degrees inclination which I described in CPN 4 (1), 8-18 (1975). Both methods worked but with both I was dissatisfied by esthetical reasons. Plants in pots or inclined containers didn't look as being in a natural environment. After further experiments I switched to 'vertical' cultivation by 3 reasons: 1) The immediate surrounding of the plants looks more natural (e.g. for making photographs). 2) It needs much less horizontal surface. 3) Petrophilous species usually do not grow really well in pots but all flatland species are easily adaptable to vertical settings. As I got already many requests I will describe my 'lamellar wall' method for one of the next CPN issues and I will send it also to IPSG and to DIONEE. First I must write it. Juerg ___________________________________________________ Juerg Steiger, Institut fuer Aus-, Weiter- und Fortbildung IAWF University of Bern, Inselspital 37a, CH-3010 Bern, Switzerland Office: ++41 31 632 98 87, Fax: ++41 31 632 98 71 ################### From: Steve Lanham Date: Wed, 31 Jan 96 09:36:52 -0800 Subject: Looking for new CP Hello and thanks for all the info on my VFT blooming I have some space for more CP and am looking for Sarracenia and Drosera as I am very new to growing CP please don't include very hard to grow plants. Thanks Steve Lanham slanham@bridge.com ################### From: Gordon Wells (Tel "(343)-401-6659") Date: Wed, 31 Jan 1996 16:45:47 UTC+0100 Subject: Wintering P. Moranensis I'm a bit confused about exactly how P. Moranensis should be treated in the winter. Mine, which I bought this summer, gradually started losing all its large leaves in the fall, and since December only had those small, pointy, and very thin-looking leaves in the center. It's planted in a peat/sand/perlite mixture with a thin layer of sphagnum on top, and I keep it indoors (19-25 oC) in filtered-light. My question is, just how dry should it be kept during the winter ? Most books (Slack, Lecoufle, Cheers) say to just reduce watering. However, many on this list have said to let it dry out *completely*. I decided to try letting it dry completely, but after a few weeks it looked as if even the few tiny leaves it had left were also drying out and dying off, so I started just barely moistening the soil every week or so just in case. Now these leaves have all started turning black from the base upward and dying - which I assume means that the whole works has rotted. Should I really have kept it completely dry for the whole winter ? Any reliable info would be greatly appreciated. Gordon Wells Instituto de Cibernetica Diagonal 647, planta 2 Barcelona 08028 SPAIN ################### From: Jan@pbc-ths1.pci.chemie.uni-tuebingen.de (Jan Schlauer) Date: Wed, 31 Jan 1996 17:56:10 +0100 Subject: Re: overwintering CP in the UK (and elsewhere) Dear Paul, > Obviously S. fava andS. purpurea >do best as these grow well into Canada where winter is really severe. _Sarracenia flava_ in Canada? Not spontaneously. Or do you have/know specimens (collected where, when, by whom?) to prove this? Kind regards Jan ################### From: "Nick Plummer" Date: 31 Jan 1996 11:43:31 -0500 Subject: Newbie Nepenthes questions Reply to: Newbie Nepenthes questions Now that my first Nepenthes (alata) is making pitchers and seems to be moderately happy, I'm thinking about trying one or two more. A couple of questions, though: 1. Do Nepenthes obtain all necessary trace elements from prey, or are some minerals taken up by the roots? I've had great success growing a number of orchids in pure coarse perlite or 50% perlite/ 50% coarse charcoal. The perlite holds a huge amount of water but is very open and airy. Orchid roots seem to love it, and I was wondering if Nepenthes might like it too. The advantage of perlite is that it doesn't decompose and rot roots. The disadvantage is that it doesn't decompose and release nutrients. Could I grow Neps in such media? Prhaps if I gave the plant very dilute trace element supplements? 2. Are there any Nepenthes species that remain compact enough to reside in an old aquarium that is 24 inches long, 12 wide and 16 high? cheers, Nick Nicholas Plummer nplummer@umich.edu ################### From: Perry Malouf Date: Wed, 31 Jan 1996 12:12:49 -0500 (EST) Subject: Re: Newbie Nepenthes questions Nick wrote: > 1. Do Nepenthes obtain all necessary trace elements > from prey, or are some minerals taken up by the roots? > ...perlite holds a huge amount of water but is very > open and airy. Orchid roots seem to love it, and I was > wondering if Nepenthes might like it too. The advantage > of perlite is that it doesn't decompose and rot roots. The > disadvantage is that it doesn't decompose and release > nutrients. Could I grow Neps in such media? I've found that Nepenthes can grow just fine without catching prey in their pitchers. Of course, I try to give mine good lighting. I rarely fertilize. With regard to potting media, you'll get a variety of answers/preferences to this question. Referring to orchid roots is a mistake, though. Orchids like to have their roots dry out somewhat between waterings. So a potting mixture that drains well and doesn't stay saturated with water for long is good for them. (I'm a bit surprised by your claim that perlite holds lots of water. Water drains right through the perlite I have). Nepenthes like to have their roots in a moist environment. The roots should never dry out, according to my experience. You'll find that Nepenthes roots are very different in appearance from orchid roots. Don't treat them the same way. I use long fiber New Zealand sphagnum mixed with a generous amount of perlite and the plants do fine. Like I said before, though, you'll get a lot of different opinions on potting media (from Cliff Dodd, Mr. Mirabini in Germany, etc.) > 2. Are there any Nepenthes species that remain > compact enough to reside in an old aquarium that is > 24 inches long, 12 wide and 16 high? There are Nepenthes which are less vine-like and more compact, but why does this matter? If your Nepenthes grows too big for the aquarium then cut it back. Root the cuttings and then give away plants. Your mother plant will sprout new growth. N. alata can grow like a weed and will surely outgrow the aquarium you described. Perry Malouf ################### From: John M Ford Date: Wed, 31 Jan 1996 12:55:15 -0500 (EST) Subject: Schnell's CP Book Hi all, I just ran accross a new online bookstore which has Schnell's book on North American CP on special at a very good price - $7.50 (US). Shipping begins at $1.50 for US orders $2.50 for Canadian orders (US Funds). You can find them at www.outdoorbooks.com select the discount books section. Phone 800 606-6085 for orders or you can place your order online. This is an excellent book for beginning CP growers, especially at this price (retail is $19.95). Good growing, John jford@runet.edu ################### From: egilding@lava.net (Edward Gilding) Date: Wed, 31 Jan 96 09:30 WET Subject: Re: CP digest 607 Ok tissue culture people. I got the rest of the procedure down (I think) and I am wondering if there is any way to reduce the amount of contamination from nepenthes explants in stage 1. Here's the beef of the problem, Nepenthes aren't all that common and cutting them up really breaks my heart, however its much easier to take an explant than to chop the poor thing into cuttings. Well, I've taken explants from numerous Nepenthes on numerous occaisions, and out of the total of 15-17 explants taken, only about 3-4 did not die from contamination (but later perished from the disinfectant itself, turning brown etc.) I used to use Chlorox often, but I noticed that although it really killed germs, it wasn't to easy on the explants too, even when they were soaked for only 5 minutes. The remaining explants that are alive (and a few of the dead ones) have some kind of delayed contamination it is obvious that it does come from the explant itself, and almost always from the inside of the leaf axil. Now I tried peeling back the leaf slightly and letting the disinfectant do its business, and it worked better to some degree but all of the explants died. The explants are 1, 2-4 node cuttings of mature growth. The article I have of Nepenthes TC used axenic derived seedings instead of stem explants. Nepenthes seed (viable ones anyway) is not easy to come by. Has anyone used any alternative method with success at disinfecting nepenthes with household ingredients, times of soaking, protocol, etc. Thank you Edward Gilding egilding@lava.net ################### From: Randall Palmer Date: Wed, 31 Jan 1996 16:36:49 -0500 (EST) Subject: Re: CP digest 607 My hat off to Paul Temply, in my expieramenting I have found that what ever kind of carnivorous plant when starting, they grow best in a tararium, in my case a fish tank with a plastic cover. Randy Palmer sfdzeqe0@scfn.thpl.lib.fl.us ################### From: dave evans Date: Wed, 31 Jan 96 17:10 EST Subject: Re: Re: CP digest 603 > When I plant a Ping, I find some common dirt and plant the plant in > that. In my past I've found Canadian peat to rich and the ping gets real > green and then becomes super moist and becomes slime. Right now my pings > are about 4 to 5" above the top of my bowl of water. RANDY & LIST, I THOUGHT DIRT WAS MUCH RICHER THAN PEAT MOSS? I THINK NEARLY ALL PINGS CAN BE THOUGHT OF AS EPIPHYTES EVEN THOUGH MOST ARE NOT. THEY LIKE VERY LOOSE SOILS, SANDY OR GRAVELY, WITH BITS OF BARK AND SOME PEAT ADDED TO HOLD IT TOGETHER WORK WELL. THINK OF SOILS USED FOR NEPENTHES AND ORCHIDS, BUT USE A FINER GRAIN SIZE. FOR TEMPERATE PINGS USE VERY SANDY MIXES, FOR TROPICAL PLANTS GO WITH MIXES MORE SIMILAR TO WHAT IS USED FOR EPIPHYTES. OF COUSE, THIS VERY GENERAL AND THERE ARE EXCEPTIONS. DAVE EVANS ################### From: "Edmund Lee Jon Deoon" Date: Thu, 1 Feb 1996 09:46:26 +0800 (SST) Subject: Re: CP digest 607 A few months ago I managed to purchase a collection of VFT, droseras and sarracenias. Since then I have been growing them under fairly similar conditions but while the VFT and Dorseras have been doing very well, the sarrs have just gradually dried up with smaller and smaller leaves. Would be grateful for any advice. Thanks and regards. Edmund ################### From: bertozzi.terry@wpo.pi.sa.gov.au Date: Thu, 01 Feb 1996 08:45:25 +0930 Subject: Perlite and Vermiculite In his discussion of how to propagate P. gypsicola from leaf cuttings, Paul mentioned that the Perlite or Vermiculite should be "fine grades". I know that both are sold in different grades, unfortunately fine is still a little ambiguous. Are we talking the smallest particle size? Terry PS I am aware that this may be different depending on where you live ################### From: dave evans Date: Wed, 31 Jan 96 21:02 EST Subject: Re: Heliamphora seeds > Kind regards from Japan > Isao > I hope for my poor English skill not to produce further misunderstanding. YOUR ENGLISH IS MUCH BETTER THAN MY JAPANESE. I THINK YOUR PLANS FOR THE SEED ARE A VERY GOOD IDEA! DAVE EVANS ################### From: dave evans Date: Wed, 31 Jan 96 21:18 EST Subject: Re: Re: CP digest 603 Re: overwintering CP in the UK > Dave > > > I'm NOT advising Sarracenias should be overwintered outdoors but all > of them seem able to withstand some severe frosting. Obviously S. > fava andS. purpurea do best as these grow well into Canada where > winter is really severe. > > > Incidentaly, I accidentally froze Cephalotus and U. subulata in > exactly the same way and they both survived with absolutely no damage > whatsoever!!! PAUL, WOW, OTHERS WHO TRIED THIS ON SMALLISH CEPHALOTUS PLANTS LOST THEM. THIS IS THE FIRST I HAVE HEARD OF A PLANT MAKING IT THOUGH FREEZING WITHOUT ANY DAMAGE. COULD YOU PLEASE ELABORATE ON THE SIZE AND OTHER CONDITIONS IT WAS IN? ################### From: Randy Lamb Date: Wed, 31 Jan 1996 23:57:52 +0000 Subject: messages to Fernando Hi there, I bet it's nice and toasty in your part of Sao Paulo this time of year! Fernando, I'm having some problems getting messages through to your Email address shown on the CPDIGEST. If there is something extra to add to ferndriv@usp.br to get through, let me know. When are you off to Japan? Enjoyed your last letter. Give me an Email shout when you get a chance, chow. Randy. ################### From: Randy Lamb Date: Wed, 31 Jan 1996 23:58:48 +0000 Subject: cold weather and CP Actually last few weeks weather in Yukon was 20 celcius below normal conditions for here. As Clarke Brunt pointed out yesterday the two temprature scales do overlap at 40 below and the main confusion is when someone refers to zero, and don't say whether it's in F or C (or K). All that sits in my frigid greenhouse right now (the rest is indoors) is a tray of P. villosa and a tray of P. macroceras that grow in the region naturally. There was no snow cover over them but they went dormant naturally in the fall so if they aren't freeze dried they may make it. I'll let every one know in May. On the subject of CP in ice as Paul Temple experienced, you would be amazed at what will survive being in an ice cube. Darlingtonia and some Sarracenia are pretty tough and occur naturally in habitats that get burried in snow and freezing temperatures annually. Sarracenia purpurea grow in northern Canada where they (the purps) experience colder temperatures than I did last week. Pings and Utrics are frequent plants above the Arctic Circle. I haven't seen Drosera that far north myself but they have been reported in Inuvik which is near the Arctic Ocean. I looked around when I was in a bird camp on the Beaufort Sea coastline but couldn't find any CP in the ponds or Sphagnum there. Randy. ################### From: L235@aol.com Date: Thu, 1 Feb 1996 11:28:54 -0500 Subject: Re: Overwintering CP in the UK Paul Temple writes: >Obviously S. fava andS. purpurea >do best as these grow well into Canada where winter is really >severe. S. Flava grows in Canada? Jay Lechtman L235@aol.com ################### From: Sean Barry Date: Thu, 1 Feb 1996 08:51:40 -0800 (PST) Subject: Re: Overwintering CP in the UK On Thu, 1 Feb 1996 L235@aol.com wrote: > > >Obviously S. fava andS. purpurea > >do best as these grow well into Canada where winter is really >severe. > > S. Flava grows in Canada? > Well, no, not as part of it natural range, but it has been introduced to at least one Darlingtonia meadow in the medium-high Sierra Nevada of California (6,000 feet or so) and is apparently surviving... ... and when I find out who did that I'll give him a piece of my mind... Sean Barry ################### From: "Nick Plummer" Date: 1 Feb 1996 12:15:02 -0500 Subject: CP digest 608 Reply to: CP digest 608 Perry Malouf wrote: >With regard to potting media, you'll get a variety of >answers/preferences to this question. Referring to orchid >roots is a mistake, though. Orchids like to have their roots >dry out somewhat between waterings. So a potting mixture that >drains well and doesn't stay saturated with water for long >is good for them. (I'm a bit surprised by your claim that >perlite holds lots of water. Water drains right through the perlite I have). I reply: I guess I should have been more specific. The key to using perlite for species requiring moisture is to use a pot with a closed bottom and drainage holes about an inch up the walls. This forms a little reservoir that keeps the perlite moist but not waterlogged by capillary action. The end result as far as roots are concerned seems to be very similar to using long fiber sphagnum, but of course, the perlite doesn't break down. I use perlite for Phragmipediums and some other terrestrial/lithophytic species that never like to dry out. The method is also good for cloud forest epiphytes like Masdevallias that must stay moist but not soaked. Surprisingly, other people to whom I have spoken have good luck using perlite with some Oncidiums which conventional wisdom says should be grown relatively dry. >From what I've read of Nepenthes habitat, their requirements would seem to be similar to Paphiopedilums (tropical lady slippers) or Phragmipediums. That's why I wondered if they would do well in perlite. Maybe I should take a cutting of my alata and see how it does in perlite before trying any other plants. Incidentally, my N. alata is in a mix of fir bark, perlite and sphagnum similar to the media you recommend. >N. alata can grow like a weed and will surely outgrow the >aquarium you described. :-) Yeah, after growing miniature orchids that struggle to produce two or three tiny leaves per year, Nepenthes alata really took me by surprise. It grows so _FAST_. It's already way to big for my aquarium, so I'm letting cascade over the side of a cabinet near a southeast window. cheers, Nick Nicholas Plummer nplummer@umich.edu ################### From: Robert.Allen@Eng.Sun.COM (Robert Allen) Date: Thu, 1 Feb 1996 10:42:13 -0800 Subject: Re: CP digest 608 >>Date: Wed, 31 Jan 1996 16:45:47 UTC+0100 >>Subject: Wintering P. Moranensis >> >>I'm a bit confused about exactly how P. Moranensis >>should be treated in the winter. Mine, which I bought >>this summer, gradually started losing all its large >>leaves in the fall, and since December only had >>those small, pointy, and very thin-looking leaves >>in the center. It's planted in a peat/sand/perlite >>mixture with a thin layer of sphagnum on top, and I >>keep it indoors (19-25 oC) in filtered-light. It's now making the winter leaves. Since you're growing it indoors I would try to dry it out significantly until it starts putting out the summer leaves again. Also note that it is claimed that the thicker winter leaves are the best for rooting to produce leaf bud plants. I grow my plant in straight vermiculite & perlite. This mix has essentially no nutrients to fertilization is required during the growing season, but the mix has much less of a problem with water retention causing rot. Note however that my plants live outdoors all year, and they seem more rot resistant in the colder winter temps despite being wet. This morning I just went out and siphoned the excess water out of the fish tank which I keep my outdoor plants in. Excess water has not bothered the plants in this case, but they've been acclimated to the outdoors, and they don't stay nearly submerged for more than a day or so if I can help it. >> >>My question is, just how dry should it be kept during >>the winter ? Most books (Slack, Lecoufle, Cheers) say >>to just reduce watering. However, many on this list >>have said to let it dry out *completely*. I decided >>to try letting it dry completely, but after a few weeks >>it looked as if even the few tiny leaves it had left were >>also drying out and dying off, so I started just barely >>moistening the soil every week or so just in case. Now >>these leaves have all started turning black from the >>base upward and dying - which I assume means that the whole >>works has rotted. Should I really have kept it completely >>dry for the whole winter ? Any reliable info would be >>greatly appreciated. I would not keep it completely dry. The only pings I'd keep completely dry are the filiform types such as gypsicola and (oh damn, I've forgotten the new name now..) alfredae. Those will rot BUT QUICK if they get damp. I lost my few gypsicola plants last winter (does anyone have any for sale? My trading stock is rather depleted right now, although I could come up with D. schizandra). In my experience P. moranensis are among the easiest and most rewarding pings to grow. Regards, Robert ################### From: JRoegner@aol.com Date: Thu, 1 Feb 1996 19:12:41 -0500 Subject: Nepenthes soil I just got this tip in the mail from Bruce Lee Bednar of Lee's Botanical Gardens on Nep culture, so you might like to add this one to your list. " Best soil mix for Florida is 50 % Peat/Perlite, Water daily - strong light , use Peters 20/20/20 every six weeks - half strength ! " Thanks ! Joe Roegner ################### From: Phil Date: Thu, 1 Feb 1996 23:44:47 GMT Subject: Pinguiculas Hi all, Sorry to confuse the issue but having preached that all (or nearly all) Mexican Pinguiculas should be kept dry throughout the winter dormancy, it now looks as if a small degree of dampness is not only useful but in some cases beneficial. It seems as if many of the species that are flowering now (e.g. P. rotundiflora, P. emarginata. P. acuminata etc,) can suffer from aborted flowers either before they are fully developed or soon after opening, if a small amount of moisture is not present. I would not hesitate to keep those species that are not flowering now completely dry. It's not so much that they neccesarily need to be kept bone dry. It's just that it is a lot easier to get them through the winter this way. If you do wet your plants at this time of the year you need to be very careful to avoid overwatering.This can be a problem using traditional soil mixes. For some years now I have grown most of my Mexican Pinguiculas in crushed tufa rock which has excellent water retention properties, tending to hold large quanties of water while also restricting the amount of water available to the plant. Overwatering is very difficult using this medium. -- Phil ################### From: "Paul Temple" Date: Fri, 02 Feb 96 10:55:34 +0000 Subject: Re: CP digest 608 +---------------------------+ TM From: Paul Temple | | | | | | | | Dept: Digital | d | i | g | i | t | a | l | Func: Net Comms | | | | | | | | DTN: 7781-1582 +---------------------------+ Easynet: fangio::temple_p Internet: temple_p@gmt.dec.com Loc/MS: GMT OK, I give up, don't shoot me!!!! What I meant was, if you visit Canada you can find people growing S. flava outdoors and you can also find S. flava plants that have been (illegally) planted into the wild. The temperatures in Canada are generally a lot lower than most of western Europe where most of the European CP experience is gained. If plants are hardy in Canada then I would generally expect them to be reasonably hardy here in the UK and in western Europe (e.g. Germany, Italy, France, UK). However, Canadian winters are super dry, the snow squeaks when trodden on. So plants from Canada can be very cold hardy but intolerant or less tolerant of winter wet. I think this may be true to a certain extent for Sarracenias. They look fine when frozen but awful when cold and wet! S. purpurea seems very hardy though, no matter whether wet or dry. Apologies for all this S flava distribution stuff. My next topic will be "Plant Hunting the Wild populations of Heliamphora in Antartica". Regards Paul A number of people wrote to me about S. flava in Canada so I hope this sets the record straight. ################### From: "Paul Temple" Date: Fri, 02 Feb 96 11:32:42 +0000 Subject: Re: CP digest 608 +---------------------------+ TM From: Paul Temple | | | | | | | | Dept: Digital | d | i | g | i | t | a | l | Func: Net Comms | | | | | | | | DTN: 7781-1582 +---------------------------+ Easynet: fangio::temple_p Internet: temple_p@gmt.dec.com Loc/MS: GMT >My question is, just how dry should it be kept during the winter ? Good question, shame aboutthe answer. P. moranensis is a large group of plants which currently include plants using this name but which have somewhat different growth preferences. Some (like those carrying names like "caudata" and "mexicana") are totally tolerant of wet soil in winter (mine stand in one inch of rain water all year). Others seem less tolerant of watewr but this varies from plants that require a damp soil and plants that prefer it relatively dry. Despite what the books might say, and despite the advice given by some nurseries (including specialists), I have not yet found any tender Pinguicula that requires total dryness in winter (or during dormancy). My plants definately show a readiness to shrink beyond safe limits if kept totally dry. Just to complicate life, there is no obvious correlation between dislike (or liking) of winter wet and whether the plant rests above or below ground. (Different types of P. moranensis also tolerate different winter minimum temperatures. Some types will not be reliably tolerant below 12C while others are happy down to 5C.) So, I'm afraid the exact preferences for water will depend on which P. moranensis you have. The various clones or types vary in their needs. As a guide, my advice is to err on the side of dryness. Do not stand plants in water during winter but keep them just slightly damp by hand watering. Watch the plants and add or reduce water if it looks necessary. >It's planted in a peat/sand/perlite >mixture with a thin layer of sphagnum on top, and I >keep it indoors (19-25 oC) in filtered-light. Immediately get rid of the Sphagnum. In winter this will encourage rot as it holds too much water too close to the plant. With the peat/sand/Perlite, I would suggest at least as much Perlite as the combined Peat and Sand. The increased drainage this creates will reduce the impact of overwatering. Filtering the light is only necessary if it's sunlight. You don't need to filter artificial light. I'm not sure which you meant. >From the sound of things, your plant is already past saving. Don't >give up yet but to avoid further disappointment, assume the worst. Hope this helps. Regards Paul ################### From: "Paul Temple" Date: Fri, 02 Feb 96 11:42:21 +0000 Subject: Re: CP digest 608 +---------------------------+ TM From: Paul Temple | | | | | | | | Dept: Digital | d | i | g | i | t | a | l | Func: Net Comms | | | | | | | | DTN: 7781-1582 +---------------------------+ Easynet: fangio::temple_p Internet: temple_p@gmt.dec.com Loc/MS: GMT Terry Sorry, you are right that "fine" is rather ambiguous. The point is to try to use Perlite/Vermiculite grains that are smaller than the Pinguicula leaves you are using to propogate from. Otherwise you can easily end up with the leaves falling between the grains which they don't usually like this. If people cannot get such a small grain size of Perlite or Vermiculite, simply use the smallest you can find and be a bit more careful on laying out the leaves. Regards Paul ################### From: "Paul Temple" Date: Fri, 02 Feb 96 11:57:02 +0000 Subject: Re: CP digest 608 Re: Freezing Cephalotus +---------------------------+ TM From: Paul Temple | | | | | | | | Dept: Digital | d | i | g | i | t | a | l | Func: Net Comms | | | | | | | | DTN: 7781-1582 +---------------------------+ Easynet: fangio::temple_p Internet: temple_p@gmt.dec.com Loc/MS: GMT Dave >WOW, OTHERS WHO TRIED THIS ON SMALLISH CEPHALOTUS PLANTS LOST >THEM. THIS IS THE FIRST I HAVE HEARD OF A PLANT MAKING IT >THOUGH FREEZING WITHOUT ANY DAMAGE. COULD YOU PLEASE ELABORATE >ON THE SIZE AND OTHER CONDITIONS IT WAS IN? First, I emphasise I did NOT conduct experiments. I accidentally left my Cephalotus outside in Winter! The plant was one I grew from seed, which I harvested from a plant I previously grew (and still have). Both plants have spent their entire lives in my greenhouse. The plant I forgot about is mature with good size pitchers, about 8 of them, and a few winter leaves. The pot is thin plastic, of the type you use once and throw away (but I fogot to change it!). The whole thing measures about 3-4 inches sqaure by about 4 - 5 inches deep (i.e. a full legth pastic pot). It was standing in an aluminium tray bench system that had collected one inch of standing rainwater. The tray was against a South facing wall. However, where I live, South facing may be warmer but it is considerably exposed and gets the worst of the local wind. The plants have been exposed to several night frosts and then got a few days of total freezing. Litterally the standing water in the tray, the pot of soil and the water in the Cephalotus traps all froze completely solid. At 3C it took about 3 days to thaw out when I finally found the plants outside. Oh yes, light was direct sunlight with no protection (but its fairly weak in winter and about 9 hours duration. Wind chill factor meant temperatures felt like -10C or worse but actually stayed fairly constantly at between -5 to -8C for about 3 days. It was generally cold for a lot longer, including repeated night time frosts and occassional day time frost or freezing (but these occassions each lasted hours rather than days). The Utric was an accidental colony in the same pot. The soil used is a peat and sand mix with a majority of medium grade Perlite (medium = grains about 4mm). It's two or more weeks since I brought the plant in and it's definately survived and is healthy. I don't recommend this as normal treatment but I'm definately going to risk a planyt outdoors over winter next year, just to see how hardy this plant can be. Regartds Paul ################### From: Heiko Rischer Date: Fri, 2 Feb 1996 14:00:23 +0100 (MEZ) Subject: Re: CP digest 607 Hallo Edward, On Wed, 31 Jan 1996, Edward Gilding wrote: > Ok tissue culture people. I got the rest of the procedure down (I think) > and I am wondering if there is any way to reduce the amount of contamination > from nepenthes explants in stage 1. > > Here's the beef of the problem, Nepenthes aren't all that common and cutting > them up really breaks my heart, however its much easier to take an explant > than to chop the poor thing into cuttings. Well, I've taken explants from > numerous Nepenthes on numerous occaisions, and out of the total of 15-17 > explants taken, only about 3-4 did not die from contamination (but later > perished from the disinfectant itself, turning brown etc.) I used to use You can avoid the browning of explants by transfering them immediately after sterilisation in a solution of citric and ascorbinic acid (dont remember the exact conc. at this moment.) > Chlorox often, but I noticed that although it really killed germs, it wasn't > to easy on the explants too, even when they were soaked for only 5 minutes. I dont know the ingredients of _Clorox_ but it may contain H2O2 that is very aggressive for plant tissue. Also with _Domestos_ or NaOCl it is always diluted 1:5. > The remaining explants that are alive (and a few of the dead ones) have some > kind of delayed contamination it is obvious that it does come from the > explant itself, and almost always from the inside of the leaf axil. Now I Yes, the phloem / xylem of the plants are often inhabited by microorganisms such as fungi or bacteria. You cant reach them by surface sterilisation. You may try antibiotics as media additions but this also works not 100 %. > tried peeling back the leaf slightly and letting the disinfectant do its > business, and it worked better to some degree but all of the explants died. > The explants are 1, 2-4 node cuttings of mature growth. The article I have > of Nepenthes TC used axenic derived seedings instead of stem explants. Please tell us the title of this article. > Nepenthes seed (viable ones anyway) is not easy to come by. > > Has anyone used any alternative method with success at disinfecting > nepenthes with household ingredients, times of soaking, protocol, etc. I dont know any alternative method yet. > > Thank you > Edward Gilding > egilding@lava.net Hope this is not too disappointing. Yours Heiko ################### From: Perry Malouf Date: Fri, 2 Feb 1996 08:07:37 -0500 (EST) Subject: Stop using CP digest... I add my plea to those which prece. Subscribers who use the CP digest format when receiving postings, please fill in the "subject" field when responding. Otherwise, your message appears with the subject: CP Digest XYZ and readers such as myself have no clue as to the actual contents. Yes, I must admit that I'm not interested in absolutely every posting--some I delete if the "subject" field shows nothing of interest to me. It saves time, since I don't have to scan every message. Just before writing this, I received 4 messages from the listserver, all written by one contributor, and all with the title "CP Digest 608". Each message contained different information, none of which was of interest to me. Please, for the sake of others' time, fill in the "subject" field of your replies. I said "please". :-) Perry Malouf ################### From: steiger@iae.unibe.ch (Juerg Steiger) Date: Fri, 2 Feb 1996 15:59:52 +0000 Subject: 'CP digest': Stop it please!! The CP list server messages are by far not 50 percent of the e-mails I get every day. As having only limited time by professional reasons I cannot read all messages, i.e. I have to select the messages I decide to read on the basis of the indicated 'subject'. By principle I do NOT read any messages headlined with 'CP digest' (i.e. I delete them without reading) because I guess those who are to lazy to say what their message is about are not telling anything interesting or important. PLEASE - those who didn't or don't - headline the subjects of your messages with one or some keywords! This really helps the receiver to make adequate reading selections in the daily information overflow. Perhaps it would help if Rick Walker (hi Rick!) would program instead of 'CP digest' the keyword 'Throw away message'. With kind throw away regards Juerg ___________________________________________________ Juerg Steiger, Institut fuer Aus-, Weiter- und Fortbildung IAWF University of Bern, Inselspital 37a, CH-3010 Bern, Switzerland Office: ++41 31 632 98 87, Fax: ++41 31 632 98 71 ################### From: redbaron@cix.compulink.co.uk (Richard Marsden) Date: Fri, 2 Feb 96 15:50 GMT Subject: Hi folks After my (fairly) recent cavort into the US of A last month, I'm back in the UK. After listening in for all of January, I have a few questions. Most of these, I'll mail next week (after my CP and myself are finally re-united!). For starters: Utriculata. What is the biggest trap size found for this genus? I'm intrigued by them, and the possibility of growing them. *But* they aren't worth the effort (IMO) unless the traps are visible with the naked eye, and can be demonstrated (not necessarily "manually") to the lay-person. For ease, I've decided to stick with "pot-plants", some Drosera, some Dionea, and specialise in Saracenia. Perhaps diversifying into Darlingtonia & Pinguicula in the future. I've decided Nepenthes are not worth going for *yet*. Richard ################### From: "John Phillips" Date: Fri, 2 Feb 96 07:57:49 CST Subject: Re: CP digest 608 In Message Fri, 2 Feb 1996 03:57:12 -0800, "Paul Temple" writes: > >Terry > >Sorry, you are right that "fine" is rather ambiguous. > >The point is to try to use Perlite/Vermiculite grains that are smaller than the >Pinguicula leaves you are using to propogate from. Otherwise you can easily end >up with the leaves falling between the grains which they don't usually like >this. If people cannot get such a small grain size of Perlite or Vermiculite, >simply use the smallest you can find and be a bit more careful on laying out the >leaves. > >Regards > >Paul I have found a little peat mixed in with the perlite helps when trying to propagate Mexican pings from their leaves. My perlite was too coarse and the peat seemed to compensate for this. I also used "Rootone" brand rooting hormone and fungicide. My (barely) two cents worth, John Phillips Email: phillips@library.ucsf.edu Information Services UCSF Health Sciences Library Rm 202 San Francisco, CA 94143-0840 Ph:(415) 476-8383 FAX:(415) 476-7940 ################### From: "Jeffrey Michael Stein" Date: Fri, 2 Feb 1996 11:52:14 -0500 (EST) Subject: A short note. For those non-US and otherwise unfanimilar with Clorox (tm). It is the most widespread brand of bleach == NaOCL Jeff ################### From: CHRYCL@aol.com Date: Fri, 2 Feb 1996 13:18:11 -0500 Subject: Sigma Chemical Co. Dear Friends, I need to order some tissue culture chemicals from Sigma but they tell me that they can't send chemicals to individulals. What do I tell them? All advice appreciated. Chris Clark R.R.#1 Box 137 Kirkwood, IL 61447-9606 Phone: 309-627-2108 Fax: 309-627-2108 ################### From: Jan@pbc-ths1.pci.chemie.uni-tuebingen.de (Jan Schlauer) Date: Fri, 2 Feb 1996 10:39:25 +0100 Subject: Re: Overwintering CP in the UK Dear Sean, >> S. Flava grows in Canada? > >Well, no, not as part of it natural range, but it has been introduced to >at least one Darlingtonia meadow in the medium-high Sierra Nevada of >California (6,000 feet or so) and is apparently surviving... If my memory serves me right (please correct me if not), California is not (yet?) part of Canada, is it? Kind regards Jan ################### From: Sean Barry Date: Fri, 2 Feb 1996 13:06:10 -0800 (PST) Subject: Re: Overwintering CP in the UK On Fri, 2 Feb 1996, Jan Schlauer wrote: > Dear Sean, > > > If my memory serves me right (please correct me if not), California is not > (yet?) part of Canada, is it? > Jan-- I'm not sure if you're serious or not, but I submitted the information because the Sierra Nevada at 6,000 feet is ecologically and climatically quite similar to parts of central and southern Canada, i.e., the species could possibly survive in Canada if introduced because it has in the Sierra. Sean Barry ################### From: L235@aol.com Date: Fri, 2 Feb 1996 16:15:03 -0500 Subject: CP sites in Fla panhandle I'll be in Tallahassee for several days the second week in February. Have done some beautiful photography (if I say so myself ) in Apalachicola Natl. Forest (S. flava, purpurea, psittacina, leucophyla) and want to know if anyone knows other good sites nearby ..... I know it's early in the season, but I've got an Olympus and time to kill ...... Any suggestions, even general locations, if you're particular about giving that info out to strangers, would be greatly appreciated. Jay Lechtman L235@aol.com ################### From: writserv@mi.net Date: Fri, 2 Feb 1996 19:30:38 -0400 Subject: Re: Overwintering CP in the UK >On Fri, 2 Feb 1996, Jan Schlauer wrote: > >> Dear Sean, >> >> >> If my memory serves me right (please correct me if not), California is not >> (yet?) part of Canada, is it? >> > >Jan-- I'm not sure if you're serious or not, but I submitted the >information because the Sierra Nevada at 6,000 feet is ecologically and >climatically quite similar to parts of central and southern Canada, i.e., >the species could possibly survive in Canada if introduced because it has >in the Sierra. > >Sean Barry Dear Sean: I will be very interested if you could please locate these these regions by name for me geographically. If you could include the references which describe how - >the Sierra Nevada at 6,000 feet is ecologically and >>climatically quite similar to parts of central and southern Canada, - that also, would be most appreciated. Thank you, Rand Nicholson ################### From: twhitley@onyx.xtalwind.net Date: Fri, 2 Feb 1996 19:59:29 +0000 Subject: Sarracenia Leaves Hello, I had been pondering on this problem for a long time and perhaps someone on this mailing list can offer an explanation. I have been growing my Sarracenia purpurea for almost two years now. During the summer when I lived in GA and currently at this time of year when I am living in FL, the topmost portion of the Sarr pitchers on the edges are dried and brown. I am wondering if this is a result of low humidity or direct sunlight or from keeping the plant a little drier than usual this time of year. The plant is not in a complete dry state but it is not in it's usual pan of water either. Does anyone have any ideas? Tracie ************************************************ CyberSpace African Violet Society "Now your favorite plant is uniting people across the Internet." http://www.xtalwind.net/~twhitley/index.html E-mail:twhitley@onyx.xtalwind.net ************************************************ ################### From: Carl Mazur Date: Fri, 2 Feb 1996 21:32:34 -0500 (EST) Subject: Re: Overwintering CP in the UK On Thu, 1 Feb 1996 L235@aol.com wrote: > Paul Temple writes: > > >Obviously S. fava andS. purpurea > >do best as these grow well into Canada where winter is really >severe. > > S. Flava grows in Canada? > > Jay Lechtman > L235@aol.com > Folks, S flava doesn't grow in Canada!!! It's natural range goes only as far north as southern Virginia. Even there, its not easy to find, only 4 or sites are left there. I think what people are trying to say is that S. flava will grow in Canada if planted outdoors!. I live in Southern Ontario (near Niagara Falls), and have grown many Sarracenia outdoors for many years now with no problems. To give you an idea of how cold it can get, our normal day temps for Feb 2 is -0.5C with lows of -7.6C, however, tonite our low will dip to -25C. We have cold snaps like this at least once every winter. To date, I've grown flava, rubra, minor and southern purps without loss! Carl. ################### From: Sean Barry Date: Fri, 2 Feb 1996 22:02:46 -0800 (PST) Subject: Re: Overwintering CP in the UK On Fri, 2 Feb 1996 writserv@mi.net wrote: > I will be very interested if you could please locate these these regions by > name for me geographically. If you could include the references which > describe how - > > >the Sierra Nevada at 6,000 feet is ecologically and > >>climatically quite similar to parts of central and southern Canada, > I don't want to divulge publicly the precise meadow(s) where S. flava has been introduced in California because they include some of the southernmost populations of Darlingtonia, but suffice to say that I have seen the introduced plants in Plumas County, California. As for references, I can't think of one off the top of my head, I guess because the relationship between altitude and latitude has been understood since Merriam's 1898 description of San Francisco peak in Arizona and his introduction of the life zone concept, which has been revised by Dice in "Biotic Provinces of North America." It's sort of like trying to name a definitive reference for succession or competition. Anyway, many biotic elements have extended literally from the boreal regions of Canada south along the ecological corridor of the Cascades and the Sierra. Darlingtonia, for one. Pine martens, Stellar's jays, rubber boas, sequoia trees, wolverines, blue grouse, red fir, bigleaf maple, etc are all apparently of northern (=Canadian) origin and dispersed southward along the corridor into the Sierra and points south in some instances. Their presence in the Sierra indicates that ecological and climatic conditions are not sufficiently hostile to exclude them, that is, in fundamental ways the Sierra Nevada biotic region resembles the Canadian more than it resembles the rest of California's biotic regions. Further, the mid- and high- Sierra coniferous forests are virtually identical in all ecological respects except species composition to those of boreal Canada. For a good discussion of the Sierra Nevada biota, see Storer and Usinger, "Sierra Nevada Natural History," University of California Press. Sean Barry ################### From: Clarke Brunt Date: Fri, 2 Feb 1996 19:07:09 +0000 Subject: Re: Wintering P. Moranensis On 31 Jan 96 at 8:06, (343)-401-6659 wrote: > I'm a bit confused about exactly how P. Moranensis > should be treated in the winter. Mine, which I bought > this summer, gradually started losing all its large > leaves in the fall, and since December only had > those small, pointy, and very thin-looking leaves > in the center. It's planted in a peat/sand/perlite > mixture with a thin layer of sphagnum on top, and I > keep it indoors (19-25 oC) in filtered-light. Maybe there are varieties of P. moranensis which behave differently, but mine just grow right throught the Winter, and still flower well. I keep them in the house, still in a water tray. The temperature is usually lower than your 19-25C (we don't keep houses very warm over here). Just about now, they start to form smaller central leaves, and by maybe March or April will have less of the large ones. I usually divide them then. P. moranensis doesn't mind growing in a nutritious soil, and will probably then grow faster. The root system always remains very small though - the size of pot is regulated by the leaf spread rather than the roots. Possibly I am growing them unnaturally, and they should have more Winter dormancy, but my attitude is just to treat them as pretty flowering house plants (what else can flower maybe 10 months out of 12?). -- Clarke Brunt (clarke@brunt.demon.co.uk) ################### From: jnuyen@voyager.net (John Nuyen) Date: Sat, 3 Feb 1996 09:01:16 -0500 (EST) Subject: CP Greenhouse/Coldframe Does anyone have any ideas or know where to get plans for building a small greenhouse or coldframe type structure for a cold winter climate state like Michigan. I am contemplating building either a very small walk in greenhouse or a non walk in type. I would probably grow the CP's in it during the summer and leave them in it over the winter probably in an unheated state, if this is possible. I am just trying to develop ideas for habitat before I get back into growing CP's. At this time, I only have one plant in a pot in the house, but I would like to expand significantly. Thanks, John F. Nuyen, Michigan, USA jnuyen@vixa.voyager.net ################### From: Mike Salmon <100114.2461@compuserve.com> Date: 03 Feb 96 09:41:56 EST Subject: Re: UK source of CP books I just got the latest catalogue from Wheldon and Wesley, books on natural history.They have a large section on plants including CPs. Darwin and Slack are both listed Slack's carniverous plants at L20. There are also many books on classification and collections also long runs of journals. Many books from the nineteenth and earlier centuries. Prices range from L10 to over L10000 (yes ten thousand pounds) per book. There is a whole section on orcids and another on cacti. They often have a section on Darwin there are several other sections I havn't mentioned including a good one on geology and palaeontology (for those who like fossil plants as well as living ones). This is a good souce of out of print books and they only deal in quality material. I have had stuff from them before and all their descriptions have been accurate and their service excellent. As recently mentioned on this list many original descriptions of species were made in the UK and this is a good supplier of the original journals and monographs and may hence be of interest to people outside the UK. I have nothing to do with the company. I have only found them good in the past. If anyone would like further details or is in a hurry for a particular book e-mail me direct and I will send whatever details you request. Mike Salmon Mike Salmon <100114.2461@compuserve.com> ################### From: iglobe@ix.netcom.com (Robert Shatikian ) Date: Sat, 3 Feb 1996 11:15:06 -0800 Subject: cComplementery Investment Newsletter Interglobe Investment Newsletter February 1996 Introduction: Welcome to the Interglobe Investment Newsletter. This monthly = international newsletter is an investment advisory which identifies to = its subscribers potential profits in selected publicly traded = companies. The securiti es selected are mostly from the US NASDAQ and American Stock exchanges = as well as other countries public companies. The newsletter once in a = while enlightens certain real estate opportunities. = All the securities are selected after a thorough, lengthy diligent = research, and it is expected that their performance will outperform the = general markets significantly over the next six to twelve months. The = newsletter =92s intention is to cover only a handful of securities in each issue and= = highlight them with a few fundamental and technical parameter = bullets. = Subscription: The newsletter is currently published and mailed electronically (via = e-mail) to subscribers in the first week of each month. There are plans = for the newsletter to become weekly in the near future. The = subscription cost i s FREE. In order to guarantee receiving the Interglobe Investment Newsletter = every month , you need to send an e-mail to: iglobe@ix.netcom.com, and = in the subject section just say =93Subscribe=94. If you have done this = already pleas e ignore this message. In This Issue: The US stock markets continued breaking new highs in January of 1996 eve= n after a very healthy rise in 1995. In 1995 Consumer Price Index rose o= nly 2.5%, the Federal reserve has lowered the interest rates and analysts= b elieve more are expected to come. All these are good signs that 1996 wil= l be as good a year as 1995. On the cautious side just look at the price= of gold. Its price has moved up above $400 and continuous rising after = ye ars of stagnant moves. Lets just stay cautious. Our research shows potential opportunities in the following stocks: Bay Networks Inc. (US OTC, Symbol=3DBNET, Price=3DUS$ 41.875) =B7 This California based company manufactures networking equipment, = markets and services them in both the US and abroad. It has 111 = offices worldwide. =B7 Bay Network=92s key alliance partners are Apple, ATT, GTE, Hewlet = Packard, IBM, Intel and several other computer giants. =B7 Its business is believed to be in the top 25% of industry groups for = performance. =B7 Institutions hold 37% of its shares. =B7 Long term debt is only 15%. =B7 Currently it trades close to its two months moving average. =B7 The stock is believed to be 60% less volatile than the general = market. =B7 1995 EPS (Earnings Per Share but not for the fiscal year) were US = $1.15. There was a one time charge of US$0.07 per share for the = purchase of Xylogics company. Analysts EPS expectations are US$ 1.40 = to 1.45, and US = $1.70 to $1.75 for 1996 and 1997 respectively. = =B7 Based on the average of high and low PE (price per Earnings) ratios = over the last three years the stock should potentially trade = conservatively at around US $53 this year. Carolina First Corp. (US OTC, Symbol=3DCAFC, Price=3DUS$ 19) =B7 This is the mother company for 55 banking offices in South Carolina. = = The company not only is in the traditional banking, but also it has a = mortgage banking and automobile finance company. Three of its branches = are in = grocery stores. There are plans to open a branch in the Hilton Head = hotel. =B7 Long term debt is 1%. =B7 Institutions hold 2% of its shares. =B7 The stock is believed to be 50% more volatile than the general = market. =B7 It pays US$0.07 dividends per quarter. =B7 1995 EPS (Earnings Per Share but not for the fiscal year) were US = $1.02. Analysts EPS expectations are US $1.30 for 1996. =B7 Based on the current modest price per earnings ratio of 16.5, the = stock should easily top to US $21 to 22 and can trade even higher this = year. =B7 Several analysts have ranked the stock A for timeliness. Barrett Business Services Inc. (US OTC, Symbol=3DBBSI, Price=3DUS$ 15.75)= =B7 This Oregon based company caters businesses with temporary staffing. =B7 The company has more than 500 clients in the Maryland, Oregon, and = Washington states. = =B7 Institutions hold 47% of its shares. =B7 Long term debt is 6%. =B7 There were large volumes of trading in December of 1995, and January = 1996. =B7 1995 EPS (Earnings Per Share but not for the fiscal year) were US = $0.60 verses US $0.53 in 1994. Analysts EPS expectations are US = $0.83 to 0.85 for 1996. =B7 Based on 1995 price per earnings ratio the stock should trade as high= = as US $25 this year =B7 Analysts expectations to achieve the expected earnings are very high.= Disclaimer: = Although the information provided in this newsletter was obtained from = various reliable sources, however, neither the newsletter nor its = publisher guarantee its accuracy. The opinions and target prices are = based on the a vailable information and publisher=92s experience. The information = provided does not constitute a solicitation to buy or sell any = securities. Investors should perform their own research before = investing any money. Best Wishes: = On the behalf of the Interglobe Investment Newsletter and myself = wishing you a healthy, and prosperous month. God Bless you. Robert Shatikian, President & Publisher ################### From: Fernando Rivadavia Lopes Date: Sat, 3 Feb 1996 17:24:06 -0300 (GRNLNDST) Subject: Message wipeout!! To All, Something very strange happened to my e-mail account. All the messages I had stored were wiped out, not to mention that a few messages were sent out to various people. My computer must be getting self conscious or something and is trying to fight back. Anyways, if anybody received crazy messages from me, just ignore them sorry! If anybody was waiting for a reply from me, please write back. I had tons of messages waiting to be answered since I arrived from Europe and I was just gonna get them all answered now. Sorry guys! Fernando Rivadavia Sao Paulo, Brazil ################### From: Fernando Rivadavia Lopes Date: Sat, 3 Feb 1996 19:22:30 -0300 (GRNLNDST) Subject: lost G.lobata slide in Europe To all Europeans I met, I seem to have lost a slide of G.lobata somewhere on my European tour. I'm almost sure it was before I reached England, most likely in Bern or Udine. Thus Juerg Steiger, I'd really appreciate it if you could take a look around your house and see if the slide didn't fall out anywhere. Also Alessandro Delfrate, if you could look around your car, or talk to Furio and Fiorello and ask them to take a look around their places, I'd be very thankful. I have very few slides of this species and that was the best one of all. The good news regarding G.lobata is that I now have it in cultivation again!! Remember I went to see it in the wild in October/ November, but there were none left (confirming it's an annual in the wild)? I'd collected mosses at a site where I'd seen this species 2 and 1/2 years before, and now there are several little plants germinating, which are almost surely this species. Fernando Rivadavia Sao Paulo, Brasil ################### From: JRoegner@aol.com Date: Sat, 3 Feb 1996 16:27:26 -0500 Subject: Tissue Culture Chemicals and more For a very good source of Tissue Culture chemicals, books, TC starter kits, science materials, etc, call the Carolina Biological Supply Company at 1-800-334-5551 (in the US or Canada ) or 910-584-7686 for International. One of their e-mail addresses is caroscipub@aol.com If you work in a laboratory or in the educational field, the catalog is free. Thanks ! Joe Roegner ################### From: Fernando Rivadavia Lopes Date: Sat, 3 Feb 1996 19:30:33 -0300 (GRNLNDST) Subject: Plumbago - a close relative to Drosera and Neps While in Europe, I discussed with Jan Schlauer the recent publications showing throught DNA sequencing that Plumbago is not very distant from Drosera and Nepenthes. In fact, someone (I'm almost sure it was you Jan) even asked me to send some plants in alcohol, since I have them growing in my backyard here in Sao Paulo. As soon as I got back to Brazil, I went to inspect closely these plants, to see the glandular hairs supposedly present on the sepals. Surprisingly, the sticky tentacles are very similar to those on Drosophyllum or Drosera and I found several small ants trapped on these. Very curious! I've already got the plants in alcohol, I just need to confirm before sending them off if it was really you, Jan, who wanted the plants. Fernando Rivadavia Sao Paulo, Brazil ################### From: Peter Cole Date: Sun, 04 Feb 1996 01:10:06 GMT Subject: Re: Sarracenia Leaves twhitley@onyx.xtalwind.net writes: > Hello, > > I had been pondering on this problem for a long time and perhaps > someone on this mailing list can offer an explanation. I have been > growing my Sarracenia purpurea for almost two years now. During the > summer when I lived in GA and currently at this time of year when I > am living in FL, the topmost portion of the Sarr pitchers on the > edges are dried and brown. I am wondering if this is a result of low > humidity or direct sunlight or from keeping the plant a little drier > than usual this time of year. The plant is not in a complete dry > state but it is not in it's usual pan of water either. Does anyone > have any ideas? I'd expect a bit of dieback at this time of year, though S.p doesn't suffer as much as some. But brown edges in the Summer sounds like a lack of water to me. You can't overwater it while it's in growth - it will happily tolerate complete immersion for days at a time (though it won't catch many flies :) and it will happily soak up as much sun as it can get, so I'd say raise the water level. This should also help the humidity around the pot too (if humidity's a worry, planting longfibre sphagnum moss around the plant will help.) If for one reason or another you can't do this, then you might try putting the pot in a bucket of water for 1 day/week or so. Happy growing, Peter ################### From: Peter Cole Date: Sun, 04 Feb 1996 01:04:58 GMT Subject: Re: Wintering P. moranensis Clarke Brunt writes: ... > attitude is just to treat them as pretty flowering house plants (what > else can flower maybe 10 months out of 12?). U. sandersonii (and it's a lot harder to exterminate! :-) Happy growing, Peter ################### From: Peter Cole Date: Sun, 04 Feb 1996 01:25:53 GMT Subject: Re: Hi Folks redbaron@cix.compulink.co.uk (Richard Marsden) writes: > After my (fairly) recent cavort into the US of A last month, I'm back > in the UK. After listening in for all of January, I have a few > questions. Most of these, I'll mail next week (after my CP and myself > are finally re-united!). For starters: Utriculata. What is the > biggest trap size found for this genus? About 5mm diameter is the biggest I've heard of, on U. humboldtii and vulgaris (though my vulgaris has never made any more than 2mm.) > I'm intrigued by them, and > the possibility of growing them. *But* they aren't worth the effort > (IMO) unless the traps are visible with the naked eye, and can be > demonstrated (not necessarily "manually") to the lay-person. The traps are certainly ingenious and impressive when magnified, but the real excuse for growing them has to be the flowers, which are without exception beautiful. Who needs orchids? (no, I don't really want to know :) Many Utrics are extremely easy and flower virtually all year round. The other excuse for growing them is of course that it's hard not to - they tend to infest neighbouring pots, and can't be got rid of! I've been trying to get the !"@$%^ing sandersonii out of my Sarras for three years now! (and then there's subulata...) I wouldn't be without them, Peter ################### From: Peter Cole Date: Sun, 04 Feb 1996 00:58:29 GMT Subject: Re: Sigma Chemical Co. CHRYCL@aol.com writes: > Dear Friends, > I need to order some tissue culture chemicals from Sigma but they tell me > that they can't send chemicals to individulals. What do I tell them? All > advice appreciated. Fire up your DTP package and print an official looking letterhead - "Kirkwood Botanical Research Co." or something like that, and pretend that you're not an individual. I know it worked for a friend, though it wasn't TC chemicals or Sigma. Who knows - you might even be able to wangle a 30 day account :) Happy growing, Peter ################### From: Philip Thomas Date: Sat, 3 Feb 1996 17:51:01 -1000 (HST) Subject: RE: tracie's s. purps most likely browned tops are not due to direct sunlight--at least, not solely. They can grow fine in full sun. however, that along with low humidity MIGHT do it. Also, of course--and please forgive me if this seems too basic [sometimes it's the real reason]--that OLD leaves (us. several months) will NATURALLY begin to turn brown at the tops. afn, -pt ------------------------------------------------------------------------- Philip A. Thomas - thomasp@maui.com OR halesci@hawaii.edu P.O. Box 1272 - Puunene, Maui, Hawaii 96784 USA voice: (808) 572-9306 ext. 3233 fax: (808) 572-1304 ## Opinions expressed are my own and do not necessarily represent ## ## the views of the U.S. National Biological Service or my employer! ## ################### From: Perry Malouf Date: Sat, 3 Feb 1996 23:11:23 -0500 (EST) Subject: Re: Sigma Chemical Co. > > Dear Friends, > > I need to order some tissue culture chemicals > > from Sigma but they tell me that they can't send > > chemicals to individulals. What do I tell them? All > > advice appreciated. > > Fire up your DTP package and print an official looking letterhead - > "Kirkwood Botanical Research Co." or something like that, and pretend > that you're not an individual. I know it worked for a friend, though > it wasn't TC chemicals or Sigma. Who knows - you might even be able > to wangle a 30 day account :) Whoa, be careful here. Yeah, people probably do this sort of thing all the time--but if you're caught you could be charged with mail fraud. There was recently a high profile case of a fellow somewhere in the U.S. who was able to get bubonic plague bacteria through a similar method. He used his employer's letterhead to order the stuff from a company in Rockville, MD (my neck of the woods) and have it sent to his home. He was caught when he phoned the company to find out why the order was taking so long-- the company representative suspected something after speaking with the guy for a few minutes about technical matters. Anyway, it turns out that there is no law in the U.S. against an individual possessing such dangerous substances. Before the nerve gas incident in Japan, there was no law there against individuals possessing dangerous substances either. So, the authorities had no other recourse than to charge the fellow (who obtained the bubonic plague bacteria) with with mail fraud--that's all Sort of gets you thinking, doesn't it? :-) Perry Malouf ################### From: Sean Barry Date: Sat, 3 Feb 1996 23:51:42 -0800 (PST) Subject: Re: Sigma Chemical Co. Try: Ordering through a local chemical supplier--these are retail outlets that sell to individuals, and can often order anything from any chemical company. Buying through a high school chemistry or biology teacher, with the permission of the school district--many people buy chemicals from Carolina Biological Supply (who also won't sell chemicals to individuals) this way. Becoming a legitimate business operation, even if small. Sean Barry ################### From: Jan@pbc-ths1.pci.chemie.uni-tuebingen.de (Jan Schlauer) Date: Sun, 4 Feb 1996 12:55:54 +0100 Subject: Re: Plumbago - a close relative to Drosera and Neps Dear Fernando, > While in Europe, I discussed with Jan Schlauer the recent >publications showing throught DNA sequencing ... AND the common possession of the naphthoquinone plumbagin!... > that Plumbago is not very >distant from Drosera and Nepenthes. In fact, someone (I'm almost sure it >was you Jan) even asked me to send some plants in alcohol, since I have >them growing in my backyard here in Sao Paulo. Yes, it was me. > As soon as I got back to >Brazil, I went to inspect closely these plants, to see the glandular >hairs supposedly present on the sepals. Surprisingly, the sticky >tentacles are very similar to those on Drosophyllum or Drosera I have told you so, so why were you surprised? >and I found several small ants trapped on these. Very curious! Very nice! In the meanwhile, I have received material of _Plumbago indica_ (=P.coccinea, P.rosea) from the Botanical Garden Wuerzburg. I have examined the calyx glands of this species and found that they felt sticky but there were no visible droplets of secretion. Upon microscopical examination of the emergences supporting the glands I could see that the emergences were indeed positioned exactly above the longitudinal veins of the sepals BUT the vascular strand did NOT enter the emergence (opposite to what I had expected). If the plants you have (_P.auriculata_=P.capensis, I suppose) do indeed trap insects (what I have suggested to be their function, in order to prevent crawlers - you wrote "ants" !! - from visiting the flowers), I suppose you can see secretion droplets. So I would like to examine this species if it perhaps has vascularized tentacles. > I've already got the plants in alcohol, I just need to confirm >before sending them off if it was really you, Jan, who wanted the plants. Yes, I want them. Thank you very much. To all: Any other species of _Plumbago_ cultivated/growing wild anywhere? The Botanical Garden of Tuebingen has _P.zeylanica_ (closely related to or perhaps even conspecific with _P.scandens_) but I do not know if it will survive or even flower. Any observation or material concerning the glandular emergences on the calyx of _Plumbago_ or _Plumbagella_ would be appreciated very much. Thank you. "Plumbago larpentae"=_Ceratostigma plumbaginoides_ and the other species of _Ceratostigma_ do have plumbagin but they lack glandular hairs so these can be left out for the moment. I think little by little we are excavating remnants of remote (early angiosperm, or at least early cp) evolutionary history... Kind regards Jan ################### From: Kevin Snively Date: Sun, 4 Feb 1996 08:49:48 -0800 (PST) Subject: CP related Add's Hi family In among all the ICPS renewals I've been receiving during the past month, I've also received two adds I'd like to share with those who haven't seen or heard about them, and hopefully get a bit more information for myself from those who have. No nether I nor the ICPS are connected in any financial way with either of these interprises. This is not an endorsement. Please do not write me for more information. Please contact the principles of either listing directly. I will NOT forward your messages! 1) Nansow Insectivorous Plants Botanical Garden (NIP Botanical Garden.) Contact Ninsow Insectivorous Plants Botanical Garden C/O Yukio Koshikawa 4-42-8, Shimotakaido Suginami-ku Tokyo 168 Japan Publication NIP Botanical News Currently on Vol. 1 No. 3 The copy I have is 10 pages counting front and back covers approximately the same dimensions as ICPS and or -GFP- news letters. It is written in English and Japanese 50:50 and contains a pair of nice color photographs in the center of the booklet. There is also a map showing where the garden is located. Membership Lifetime 20,000 Yen Annual membership (over seas) 5 IRC coupons Benefits Life members recive free admission to the garden access to seed and seedlings from the garden and the garden news letter. Annual members will recive the garden news letter, 5 Aldrovanda Winter buds and free admission to the garden for the year. Admission Daily admission is 1,000 yen/day per person and includes one Sarracenia Tent rentals for overnight stays available at 500 yen/night Cottage rental available at 2,000 yen/night Cooking sets, barbecue sets, bedding etc... available. 2) Beautiful & Hungry Part 2 (Carnivorous Plants) This is an 80 minute vidio tape about northern Australia, it's carnivorous plants and their associated insects produced by Siegfried Hartmeyer Contact Siegfried Hartmeyer Wittlinger Strasse 5 D-79576 Weil am Rhein Germany Areas Covered Kununurra Region, Beverley Springs, Darwin Region, and Far North Queensland Formats Available VHS (PAL) and Super VHS (PAL) NTSC-System IS NOT AVAILABLE Price U.S.A. & Canada 40 U.S. Dollars or 60 DM delivered. He is also producing a CD rom for release at the end end of 1996. krs ################### From: Jan@pbc-ths1.pci.chemie.uni-tuebingen.de (Jan Schlauer) Date: Sun, 4 Feb 1996 20:31:08 +0100 Subject: Re: California vs. Canada (was:Overwintering...) Dear Sean & Rand, >> If you could include the references which >> describe how - >> >> >the Sierra Nevada at 6,000 feet is ecologically and >> >>climatically quite similar to parts of central and southern Canada, Thanks, I wanted to ask the same. Let's see: >(...)I can't think of one off the top of my head, I guess because >the relationship between altitude and latitude has been understood since >Merriam's 1898 description of San Francisco peak in Arizona and his >introduction of the life zone concept, which has been revised by Dice in >"Biotic Provinces of North America." Come on, cite A.v.HUMBOLDT (Ideen zu einer Geographie der Pflanzen, Tuebingen 1807) properly if you mean him (you obviously do so)! > Anyway, many biotic >elements have extended literally from the boreal regions of Canada south >along the ecological corridor of the Cascades and the Sierra. So you mean SW Canada (specifically, the Rockies of B.C.) and not "central and southern Canada" (which has a continental climate) as you have written before. >Darlingtonia, for one. Sorry, but this is perhaps the best example to disprove you because this species does not even manage to reach Washington, much less so Canada (!). > Pine martens, Stellar's jays, rubber boas, sequoia >trees, wolverines, blue grouse, red fir, bigleaf maple, etc are all >apparently of northern (=Canadian) origin and dispersed southward along >the corridor into the Sierra and points south in some instances. All these trees show distribution patterns rather different from any Sarraceniacea, chorologically (I renounce to discuss non-plants in this context). Let us compare comparable things. >Their >presence in the Sierra indicates that ecological and climatic conditions >are not sufficiently hostile to exclude them, This is true but... >that is, in fundamental ways >the Sierra Nevada biotic region resembles the Canadian more than it >resembles the rest of California's biotic regions. Not this way in our case. Montane floras are frequently different from the planar ones at the same geographical latitude but still a good deal of their species (and especially of the endemic ones!) have their phylogenetic roots in the plains beneath their feet. _Darlingtonia_ did rather certainly reach the Cascade Range from the (?S-)E and not from the N. > Further, the >mid- and high- Sierra coniferous forests are virtually identical in all >ecological respects except species composition to those of boreal Canada. But we are exactly talking about species composition. (BTW: how do you want to discuss "ecological respects" excepting species composition?) Please don't get me wrong. I do not want to annoy you but progress and improvement are more frequently born from opposition than from applause. Thus, it is one of my hobbies to disagree. Barry, Andreas, Fernando & al. can certainly confirm this (or rather contradict?). ;-) Kind regards Jan ################### From: L235@aol.com Date: Sun, 4 Feb 1996 15:01:02 -0500 Subject: Re: Tracie's S. purpurea leaves I agree with Philip Thomas (CP digest 611) that it's likely age as anything else that's causing the purple pitcher leaves to brown. I grow both S. purpurea purpurea and venosa outdoors in northern Virginia, and find that the purpurea subspecies often turns brown at the top in the summer, and certainly during winter dormancy in my unheated garage. However, venosa seems largely immune from browning. Humidity here can't be as high as it is in Georgia/Florida, and they sit in a relatively constant couple inches of water (unless I don't empty them out after our frequent summer rains right away) Jay Lechtman L235@aol.com ################### From: Fernando Rivadavia Lopes Date: Sun, 4 Feb 1996 18:27:05 -0300 (GRNLNDST) Subject: St.Hilaire expeditions - did he collect the plants?? To all, On my recent trip to Europe I saw TYPE material for many Brazilian CPs, most of which were collected by the French botanist Auguste de Saint Hilaire in the early 1800's. The collections are very numerous and from distant parts of the country. Now I'm wondering if he really did travel to all those places or if he just sat around in Rio de Janeiro (or maybe even back in Paris) waiting for the plants to be brought back to him by expeditions which he only helped organize. I know the difficulties I've had in these past few years going after CPs in the wild here in Brazil and I can hardly begin to imagine how difficult it was back then! Not only were there often no roads nor trails, but there were hostile natives and loads of unknown diseases. In fact, the stories we often hear of these old expeditions is that most people never even made it back! So did Saint Hilaire really go to the TYPE locations of the CPs and other plants he described?? I forgot to look if there were collection dates on the TYPE material I saw, but I know from Jan Schlauer's CP nomenclatural synopsis (which is always sitting on the table next to the keyboard!) that there are no collection numbers and the only date listed is the date of publication for the species. This might pose a problem for some of the plants I'm studying, whose TYPE locations are not very specific. For example, the TYPE location for D.villosa is "Serra Negra (Black Mountains), Minas Gerais". The problem is that I know of 2 Serra Negras in the state of Minas Gerais (one in the SE part of the state and the other near Diamantina, in the central part of the state) and I know St.Hilaire's expeditions passed at least close to both. So which of the 2 is the true TYPE location for this species? There is also a problem with the TYPE D.tomentosa (=D.montana var.tomentosa), which is supposedly from "Itambe, Minas Gerais". I thought this could be the Itambe Peak, just south of Diamantina, yet the D.montana I found growing there had much less hairy peduncles than the ones in the TYPE D.tomentosa material. Are there other places called Itambe, or is the TYPE location wrong? I don't doubt that collections could've gotten accidentally mixed up somewhere along the way. Not to mention that that particular collection seemed, to me, to be a mixed collection. Who knows who did the actual collections and how scrupulous or careful they were? For G.aurea, the TYPE location is listed as "Serra de Caraca (the last "c" having that little 'leg' below and sounding like "ss") & Serra de Ibitipoca, Minas Gerais". I don't doubt that this species could occur at these 2 distant mountain ranges, but I've been to both and have never seen any trace of this species. I doubt they've gone extinct in these 2 well-preserved areas, so were the location names messed up? By the way, Jan, I thought it was no longer allowed by modern taxonomy for a species to have more than one TYPE locality? So what's the deal with this species? Anyways, I was hoping that maybe by studying the books describing his expeditions, I could not only find out if he actually did go on any or all of the expeditions in which his species were collected, but also resolve some of the dubious TYPE locations. The problem is the lack of a collection date for the TYPE specimens. Does anyone know if there are collection dates for the TYPE material of Saint Hilaire's plants? Has anyone ever read anything about St.Hilaire's expeditions which might help? Fernando Rivadavia Sao Paulo, Brazil ################### From: redbaron@cix.compulink.co.uk (Richard Marsden) Date: Sun, 4 Feb 96 22:45 GMT Subject: Questions! In-Reply-To: Hi - I said I'd have some more questions. Thanks for the responses about Utrics. It sounds like I should grow them for the flowers which are better than the traps (I still think the traps are very intricate!) I've finally got my plants with me. The D. capensis have half died back (some have, some haven't). But, they've got a serious white fly infestation. I believe they're white flies (I'm not a horticulturist or anything). What is the best solution? Dabbing them with IPA ( the non-drinkable variety! :-) ) IIRC? Incidentally, re. recent query about Sarracenia: Mine appear to be doing the same - going brown at the tops, although all but one of the (<1yr old) plants have new green shoots. Is there a "big book of Sarracenia"? I tihnk this is the way I'm going to go. Is Darwin's book on CP still in print? Richard ################### From: bertozzi.terry@wpo.pi.sa.gov.au Date: Mon, 05 Feb 1996 08:47:57 +0930 Subject: 'CP digest' and the CP archives >PLEASE - those who didn't or don't - headline the subjects of your >messages with one or some keywords! This really helps the receiver to >make adequate reading selections in the daily information overflow. Well, I think I have to agree with comments made by both Perry and Juerg regarding CP Digest replies. I would also like to add that this makes life difficult when searching the archives by subject. The messages just get filed under "Cp Digest" and the appropriate number. Cheers Terry ################### From: Sean Barry Date: Sun, 4 Feb 1996 16:02:25 -0800 (PST) Subject: Re: California vs. Canada (was:Overwintering...) On Sun, 4 Feb 1996, Jan Schlauer wrote: A lot of things... Thanks Jan, Rand--I was trying to provide information, not get into an argument. I decline further discussion on or off list... Sean Barry ################### From: Paul Seymour Date: Mon, 05 Feb 1996 16:56:02 +1000 Subject: Sarr's in High Temps I noticed that there has been some discussion on how well various CP survive at low temperatures. I was wondering if anybody has advice on keeping them (particularly Sarr's) alive at the other end of the scale? Brisbane has just gone through its worst heat-wave on record, it was 37C, 90% humidity at 6.00am a couple of mornings ago. I've been reading your reports of freezing weather with great envy! My main concern is S. minor and S. leucophylla. With S. minor the pitchers have simply gone limp, all new pitchers have aborted to phyllodia. S. leucophylla has remained upright, but new growth consists of full length (60cm) leaves with an almost non-existant pitcher. S. oreophila died. S. purpurea, psittacina and all seedlings seem completely unaffected. Older pitchers on S. alata, rubra, flava and various hybrids have gone limp, but newer pitchers remain healthy. I kept the pots sitting in 2-3cm of water at all times, the lack of wind and high humidity meant that they lost very little water anyway. They are potted in a fairly standard peat, perlite and sand mix and remained throughout under 30% shade cloth. Regards, Paul Seymour. ################### From: writserv@mi.net Date: Mon, 5 Feb 1996 05:44:37 -0400 Subject: Re: California vs. Canada (was:Overwintering...) >On Sun, 4 Feb 1996, Jan Schlauer wrote: > >A lot of things... > > >Thanks Jan, Rand--I was trying to provide information, not get into an >argument. I decline further discussion on or off list... > >Sean Barry No problem, Sean. Canada is such a large country that rather surprising discoveries concerning its various ecosystems and biota are still being made. Just to set the record straight, my query following your statement was FIO (For Information Only) and meant to clarify, not be argumentative. Rand Nicholson (writserv@mi.net) Canada ################### From: Gordon Wells (Tel "(343)-401-6659") Date: Mon, 5 Feb 1996 9:59:54 UTC+0100 Subject: Brown tops on S. purpurea leaves > On 2 Feb 1996, Tracie Whitley wrote: > > ...the topmost portion of the Sarr pitchers on the > edges are dried and brown... This has happened twice to my S. purpurea also, and on both occasions I've discovered that it was because I'd let the temperature go above 35 degrees C. Above this temperature you basically roast the tops off of them. It's a good idea to keep an electronic thermometer in the terrarium which has memories for the minimum and maximum temperatures reached during the day. This way you can easily check if this was what happened. Radio Shack has a very good electronic thermometer/hygrometer with minimum and maximum memories for both variables. It costs about $20.00. Gordon Wells Instituto de Cibernetica Diagonal 647, planta 2 Barcelona 08080 SPAIN ################### From: "Morpeth, David" Date: Mon, 5 Feb 1996 10:17:40 GMT Subject: subject heading confusion Dear all i read with annoyance the contents of CP digest 610. in the subject listings there were no fewer than 5 with the subject of 'overwintering cps in the UK', so with excitement i scrolled down to them. imagine my horror when they were related to canada. I would therefore like to add to Juerg's suggestion. NOT only should contributors put an appropriate subject heading, but also make it accurate! thanks dave morpeth ################### From: Nexus User elliott Date: Mon, 5 Feb 1996 21:32:16 +1030 Subject: Mutating VFT's!! (MORE double traps!) and Purp Hello Everyone, + Twhitely > >am living in FL, the topmost portion of the Sarr pitchers on the > >edges are dried and brown. I am wondering if this is a result of low > >humidity or direct sunlight or from keeping the plant a little drier > >than usual this time of year. The plant is not in a complete dry >> state but it is not in it's usual pan of water either. Does anyone >> have any ideas? Hmm, I have had this problem before, and I find it is usually caused by very warm to hot temperatures, and low humidity. You can safely sit Purps in water, I have mine sitting in about an inch, but I have had them in to about 2/3rds the depth of the pot. I'm getting a deeper watering tray soon, so I'll increase the depth then. Its coming close to dormancy time for most CP's now here in Australia, so I won't bother until next season. Anyway, Those double traps I mentioned before are still present, *BUT* I have noticed another on a different plant. That makes four double traps on four different plants! This makes me think that this isn't 100, or even 50% genetic! It has to be the conditions in my greenhouse that are causing it to occur. I was wondering what type of maximum and minimum's the plants in everyone else's collections experience during the year. What would be the max summer temperature in a greenhouse in Summer and Winter? Bye For Now, Russell Elliott ################### From: Oliver T Massey CFS Date: Mon, 5 Feb 1996 10:19:59 -0500 (EST) Subject: S minor loss Well, in the "there-outha-be-a-law" department, a friend and grower showed me a picture the other day of one of the nearby S. minor sites. Nothing special, just a big clone about six feet across or so in a roadside ditch near Kissimmee (same county as Disney World). Someone, I guess the road department, sprayed the length of the roadside with some kind of herbacide. Needless to say it obliterated everything along the ditch, looks pretty pathetic. Tom in Fl ################### From: "Morpeth, David" Date: Mon, 5 Feb 1996 15:48:27 GMT Subject: whitefly problem Richard my immediate response would be to destroy the infected plants/compost and start again! This only because this pest can be notoriously difficult to erradicate, and the ease with which D. capensis can be replaced. it could save untold misey on other, more treasured plants. dave ################### From: weston@hooked.net Date: Mon, 05 Feb 1996 08:12:06 -0800 Subject: Propagating D. adelae I would like to attempt to propagate my D. Adelae by leaf cuttings, and would appreciate info or advice from the more experienced growers on the list (i.e., I have not done any leaf cuttings, but this seems to be the most likely way for me at present, as I need to trim the plant and remove dying leaves at base). What medium should I use, what techniques, etc? The plant is currently blooming, and has a beige-colored flower (rather than red), which I was told by California Carnivores is unusual--hence the desire to create more plants. I have also been told by several growers that the seeds (if produced) are not viable, and pollination is probably not possible. Any other experience? Your comments and help by email (weston@hooked.com) would certainly be appreciated. ################### From: Steve Lanham Date: Mon, 05 Feb 96 11:52:35 -0800 Subject: CP growers near ST Louis Missouri USA Hello As I am a new grower of CP I emailed Rick Walker about a local CP grower group. As he didnot know of one he suggested that I post a request to this forum. I want to set up or join local CP grower group in the ST Louis Missouri region! Please email or snail mail me at slanham@bridge.com or Steve I Lanham 8010 Oak grove ct O'Fallon MO 63366. Any help or suggestions will be most greatly appreciated. Steve Lanham ################### From: Rick Walker Date: Mon, 05 Feb 1996 11:01:23 -0800 Subject: RE: Sigma Chemical Co. Dear Chris, > I need to order some tissue culture chemicals from Sigma but they tell me > that they can't send chemicals to individulals. What do I tell them? All > advice appreciated. I was able to order from SIGMA only after getting a "no-fee nursery license" from my local AG commissioner. This license is for growers who sell less than $500US of decorative or exotic plants per year. The laws vary by county and state, so you'll have to make inquiries locally. After I gave SIGMA a copy of my license, I had no problems establishing an account. They don't want anyone using their chemicals in a home setting, so avoid telling them that you will be working in your kitchen. If you do, you've just "shot your foot off", as they will then ask for a report from your local fire inspector to certify that your kitchen is up to commercial lab standards (which means, for one thing, that no food preparation should be done there!) An alternative method is to tell SIGMA that you are doing "orchid seed propagation". Their strict guidelines have a loophole for amateurs doing orchid work. I wrote a letter to their president requesting that they consider broadening their policy to include CP, but evidently they haven't done so yet. Of course, if I were to tell SIGMA that I were doing orchid work, I would feel obligated to sow a few Cattleya seeds now and then to maintain my integrity... :-). In short, be professional, cite your intentions clearly, and be ready to jump through some hoops before they will give you an account. I ended up writing them a letter detailing what chemicals I needed, and what procedures I would be doing. -- Rick Walker ################### From: Loren Russell Date: Mon, 5 Feb 1996 09:56:02 -0800 (PST) Subject: Re: CP Greenhouse I recall a short article on a "sun-pit" cool/unheated greenhouse in the Brooklyn Botanic Garden's booklet "Rock Gardening". I've seen similar designs in such magazines as "Mother Earth" and "Organic Gardening", recommended for cold climates. You would need a southern exposure, preferably sloping [or really superior drainage!] to make it work -- basically it's a root-cellar with galssed-in south side. The author of the sun-pit article, Lee Raden, lives in western Pennsylvania [I believe]. He illustrated a structure used largely for bulbs, but the principle should transfer. Loren Russell, Corvallis, OR ################### From: lcochran@midway.uchicago.edu (Liane Cochran-Stafira) Date: Mon, 5 Feb 1996 11:26:14 -0600 (CST) Subject: Re: Questions! snip >Is there a "big book of Sarracenia"? I tihnk this is the way I'm going to go. >Is Darwin's book on CP still in print? > > >Richard Richard - I was able to obtain copies of Darwin's book through Barnes and Noble Publishers a few years ago. I don't have their address handy, but if you're interested I can look it up. Since the catalogs they send often contain many overstock and clearance items, I can't be too sure whether they still have any copies. let me know, Liane Liane Cochran-Stafira Dept. of Ecology and Evolution The University of Chicago 1101 East 57th Street Chicago, Illinois 60637-5415 phone: 312-702-1930 e-mail: lcochran@midway.uchicago.edu ################### From: Fernando Rivadavia Lopes Date: Mon, 5 Feb 1996 16:06:34 -0300 (GRNLNDST) Subject: CPs in Canada - Jan's comments To all, > Please don't get me wrong. I do not want to annoy you but progress and > improvement are more frequently born from opposition than from applause. > Thus, it is one of my hobbies to disagree. Barry, Andreas, Fernando & al. > can certainly confirm this (or rather contradict?). ;-) > > Kind regards > Jan Yes, please don't anybody let yourselves be offended by Jan's words. I couldn't be happier to have him here with us, a priceless living library! Who else can answer all our minute doubts about any and every CP and even related subjects (habitats, climates, evolution, biochemistry, etc.)? What would we do without his CP nomenclatural synopsis? He sure keeps us all in line, correcting all our stupid mistakes and reminding us to choose our words VERY carefully! Just remember to pay lots of attention to the "smily faces" at the end of his sentences and to include them in for yourself once in a while. Now that I've met him personally, I can tell those of you who haven't that Jan has a very ironic personality, which is not something easily transmitted by a computer screen unfortunately. So don't take his apparently harsh statements too hard. When I read his comments now, I just remember his ironic smile behind his bushy beard!! ;-)# (That's supposed to look like a bushy beard!) Fernando Rivadavia Sao Paulo, Brazil ################### From: klmott@planetx.bloomu.edu (Kristin L. Mott) Date: Mon, 5 Feb 1996 14:04:58 -0500 Subject: Re: Propagating D. adelae All you have to do is gently remove the leaves at the base and place them in a tray of live sphagnum, under fluorescent lights. Another easy thing would be to remove a few roots and cut them in little pieces which will also generate new plants. New plants frequently spring up around the base of the mother plant as well! If you need any more info, Contact me at klmott@planetx.bloomu.edu Take care & keep on growing, -Tom- & Krissy p.s. just to clarify, use healthy leaves, not the dying ones at the bottom. ################### From: L235@aol.com Date: Mon, 5 Feb 1996 17:52:41 -0500 Subject: Re: Whitefly (?) on D. capensis In CP Digest 612, Richard Marsden writes: >The D. capensis have half died back (some >have, some haven't). But, they've got a serious white fly >infestation. I believe they're white flies (I'm not a >horticulturist or anything). What is the best solution? I've had plenty of pests on my outdoor-growing drosera, though never whitefly (those tiny white flies (hence the name) tend to get stuck in the tentacles rather than congregate on stems, new growth, etc.) HOWEVER, I have had several bouts of mealybug (local name?) on my drosera, particularly D binata and D. filiformis Tracyi. (these are wingless, look like small balls of cotton fluff). Whiteflies love the color yellow, and readily fly up when shaken to yellow posterboard coated in petroleum jelly. Mealybugs can usually be picked off with fingers (yech) or a toothpick, etc. Jay Lechtman L235@aol.com ################### From: bertozzi.terry@wpo.pi.sa.gov.au Date: Tue, 06 Feb 1996 09:08:16 +0930 Subject: Sarr's in High Temps - Reply Hi Paul, >Brisbane has just gone through its worst heat-wave on >record, it was 37C, 90% humidity at 6.00am a couple of >mornings ago. I've been reading your reports of freezing >weather with great envy! >I kept the pots sitting in 2-3cm of water at all times, the >lack of wind and high humidity meant that they lost very >little water anyway. They are potted in a fairly standard >peat, perlite and sand mix and remained throughout >under 30% shade cloth. I'm not quite sure what the problem with your plants is. In Adelaide the temperature is quite often up around the mid 30's at this time of year (37C forcasted for tomorrow). In my greenhouse the temperature on one of these days peaks at about 46C but because the humidity is high the plants don't appear to suffer much at all. In your situation I wouldn't expect you to have a problem. Could it be that they are remaining too wet? As you mention the water doesn't evaporate very quickly. Cheers Terry ################### From: Fernando Rivadavia Lopes Date: Tue, 6 Feb 1996 02:02:59 -0300 (GRNLNDST) Subject: Plumbago Jan, > > While in Europe, I discussed with Jan Schlauer the recent > >publications showing throught DNA sequencing > > ... AND the common possession of the naphthoquinone plumbagin!... > > As soon as I got back to > >Brazil, I went to inspect closely these plants, to see the glandular > >hairs supposedly present on the sepals. Surprisingly, the sticky > >tentacles are very similar to those on Drosophyllum or Drosera > > I have told you so, so why were you surprised? And you expect me to remember everything that was said to me during the hectic 2 weeks I spent going around 5 countries, meeting dozens and dozens of people, dealing with 4 different languages, barely having the time to sleep, and being bombarded by an absurd amount of CP-related information?!?!?! I've still got a "CP overhang" from it all!!! {&*\..._____ ################### From: "Demetrio Lamzaki" Date: Tue, 6 Feb 96 00:00:59 UT Subject: Posting Rules JS>By principle I do NOT read any messages headlined with 'CP digest' (i.e. I JS>delete them without reading) because I guess those who are to lazy to say JS>what their message is about are not telling anything interesting or JS>important. JS>Perhaps it would help if Rick Walker (hi Rick!) would program instead of JS>'CP digest' the keyword 'Throw away message'. At first I declined responding to this post (actually I wrote a reply and then deleted it) but since it seems to have started an unfortunate thread I'll put in my opinion for what it's worth. DM>i read with annoyance the contents of CP digest 610. DM>in the subject listings there were no fewer than 5 with the subject DM>of 'overwintering cps in the UK', so with excitement i scrolled down DM>to them. imagine my horror when they were related to canada. Yes, I too am terrified whenever the dreaded Canada is mentioned in a post! :-) DM>I would therefore like to add to Juerg's suggestion. NOT only should DM>contributors put an appropriate subject heading, but also make it DM>accurate! And if they dare to talk about more than one subject in a single post, and that subject is not included in the subject heading, death by firing squad! Am I the only one slightly annoyed at the tone this discussion has taken? If a person forgets to change the subject heading from "CP digest" in one post, give him or her the benefit of the doubt, it's too late to do anything about that particular post anyway. If you reply to it, just give it an appropriate subject heading. If a person sends a series of "CP digest" subject line posts, send them a private email with your concerns, no need to clog up the list with a request best directed at the individual poster. If a thread has drifted from the original subject heading, change the subject heading to make it accurate when you reply to it. If you are a third party not sending replies to a particular thread whose subject has drifted, and it is bothering you for some reason, privately email the contributors to the thread. Seems simple enough to me. If you think following threads on this list is tough, try joining a conference that averages 150 or more messages a day, this place is a piece of cake! For those of us who are veterans of FidoNet and mega flame wars, there's nothing we can see here that is the least bit intimidating. However, for novice members of lists, and even some of the long-timers, a string of complaints about postings can be very off putting. After reading this thread, combined with the recent verbal foodfight over Darlingtonia and Canada, you don't have to wonder for long why some members might think twice about posting here, they don't want to be subjected to all the hassle. My comments aren't barbs at any particular people, just reminders to everyone that the more we can encourage people to post here, the more enriching it makes the hobby for all of us. Warmest regards, Demetrios ################### From: Jan@pbc-ths1.pci.chemie.uni-tuebingen.de (Jan Schlauer) Date: Tue, 6 Feb 1996 12:36:15 +0100 Subject: Re: St.Hilaire expeditions - did he collect the plants?? Dear Fernando, > Now I'm wondering if he really did travel to all those places or >if he just sat around in Rio de Janeiro (or maybe even back in Paris) As at least some of St.HILAIRE's specimen citations read "inveni" (I have found), I assume that he has seen and collected all or most of his gatherings himself. > So did Saint Hilaire really go to the TYPE >locations of the CPs and other plants he described?? I would think he did go there. He was certainly not a poor guy and guides/porters were cheaper in his times. > I forgot to look if there were collection dates on the TYPE >material I saw, but I know from Jan Schlauer's CP nomenclatural synopsis >(which is always sitting on the table next to the keyboard!) that there >are no collection numbers and the only date listed is the date of >publication for the species. There are no dates on most labels except the month. It would probably be useful to consult a biography of St.HILAIRE (if such exists) in order to find out the routes he took on his expeditions. > For example, the TYPE location for D.villosa is "Serra Negra >(Black Mountains), Minas Gerais". The problem is that I know of 2 Serra >Negras in the state of Minas Gerais (one in the SE part of the state and >the other near Diamantina, in the central part of the state) and I know >St.Hilaire's expeditions passed at least close to both. So which of the 2 >is the true TYPE location for this species? Is it of any help that the TYPE citation reads: "Crescit in sabuletis humidis montis dicti Serra-Negra in provincia Minas-Geraes, haud longe a finibus provinciae Rio-de-Janeiro. Floret Januario, Februario" (Grows in wet sands of the mountain called Serra-Negra in the province of Minas Gerais, not far from the borders of the province Rio de Janeiro. Flowers in January, February.) Perhaps the hint to the bordering province may facilitate a decision? > There is also a problem with the TYPE D.tomentosa (=D.montana >var.tomentosa), which is supposedly from "Itambe, Minas Gerais". I >thought this could be the Itambe Peak, just south of Diamantina, yet the >D.montana I found growing there had much less hairy peduncles than the >ones in the TYPE D.tomentosa material. Are there other places called >Itambe, or is the TYPE location wrong? Here, the respective citation reads: "Crescit in paludosis montium prope Itambe in provincia Minas-Geraes alt. circiter 2015 ped." (Grows in swamps of the mountains near Itambe in the province Minas Gerais at an altitude of approximately 2015 feet). Well, Frenchmen talking about feet in the 19th century may mean something rather different from what we would assume nowadays (around 600 m). But the fact that an altitude is mentioned could mean that the plant was collected in a montane habitat. St.HILAIRE writes "mountains *near* Itambe" so I think he means mountains *near* a village/city called Itambe or a mountain range *neighbouring* the Itambe peak rather than this mountain itself. > I don't doubt that collections >could've gotten accidentally mixed up somewhere along the way. Not to >mention that that particular collection seemed, to me, to be a mixed >collection. Who knows who did the actual collections and how scrupulous >or careful they were? I simply cannot judge this. > For G.aurea, the TYPE location is listed as "Serra de Caraca (the >last "c" having that little 'leg' below and sounding like "ss") & Serra de >Ibitipoca, Minas Gerais". I don't doubt that this species could occur at >these 2 distant mountain ranges, but I've been to both and have never seen >any trace of this species. I doubt they've gone extinct in these 2 >well-preserved areas, so were the location names messed up? Again, no idea. > By the way, Jan, I thought it was no longer allowed by modern >taxonomy for a species to have more than one TYPE locality? So what's >the deal with this species? I have not seen this material (in P), so I do not know if there are different specimens or just mixed collections on one sheet. If there are indeed several separate specimens (SYNTYPES), one of these should be selected as a LECTOTYPE. Kind regards Jan ################### From: "Jeffrey Michael Stein" Date: Tue, 6 Feb 1996 09:24:41 -0500 (EST) Subject: Whiteflies and other pests. Certain insect pests can be eliminated from plants by totally submerging the plants in water. Most CP that I've tried this with have survived over five days of being submerged. Most insect pests either drown or let go and float up. This works especially good for Sarr's (and of course _D. capensis_ - which can take anything). The method is definitely not recommended for pygmy sundews and other small plants. It is important that you remove all other food sources (other plants) from the area so that the whiteflies (etc) cannot just fly over to a new host. Obvious drawbacks do exist and this does not work for everything. Jeff ################### From: Rick Walker Date: Tue, 06 Feb 1996 10:42:47 -0800 Subject: warning this is a test message -Rick ################### From: redbaron@cix.compulink.co.uk (Richard Marsden) Date: Tue, 6 Feb 96 19:56 GMT Subject: Re: Whiteflies and other pests. In-Reply-To: <199602061424.JAA26873@pilot01.cl.msu.edu> So, the replies re. whitelies are: 1.) Chuck the whole lot away. Nothing lost with D.capensis (Hey! I'm a beginner, I wouldn't mind keeping some!) 2.) Drown them in water, well-away from any other plants. 3.) Could be mealy bugs. Had a look with a magnifying glass. Most are dead, but there are live ones on the live foliage. (the dead ones being mainly on the dead foliage!) The LIVE beasties look very much like greenfly (ie. aphids) although white! So, I think they're whitefly rather than mealy bugs. Also, the plants are dew-less ATM. Its possible that they were underwatered - partially de-dewed, the whitefly got a hold,etc.,etc. Anyway, I'm going to tidy them up, pot the died-back ones on (something I should do). Dunk the whole lot in water, and see what happens. If nothing, they're going out in the snow! Richard ################### From: Rick Walker Date: Tue, 06 Feb 1996 12:17:05 -0800 Subject: Digest Subject Headers To put an end to the "Subject: Digest" problem, I've modified the listserver to reject all messages that include the string "digest [0-9]*" in the Subject: line. Messages with Digest Subject: lines will be mailed back to their authors with a note to please edit the Subject: line and resubmit the message. Let's try this policy for a while. If it seems to solve the problem without annoying anyone too much, then we'll consider it to be a permanent change... Cheers, -- Rick Walker ################### From: steiger@iae.unibe.ch (Juerg Steiger) Date: Tue, 6 Feb 1996 22:08:48 +0000 Subject: Re: Digest Subject Headers >Messages with Digest Subject: lines will be mailed back to their authors >with a note to please edit the Subject: line and resubmit the message. Excellent! Makes sense. Many thanks, Rich. I'm glad that my evil oh so terrible moaning resulted in a wise proposal on your side. I apologize to those who felt upset. Finding in a foreign language the appropriate semantics to express displeasure with diplomacy may indeed be a slippery endeavour. Kind regards to all. Juerg ___________________________________________________ Juerg Steiger, Institut fuer Aus-, Weiter- und Fortbildung IAWF University of Bern, Inselspital 37a, CH-3010 Bern, Switzerland Office: ++41 31 632 98 87, Fax: ++41 31 632 98 71 ################### From: Jan@pbc-ths1.pci.chemie.uni-tuebingen.de (Jan Schlauer) Date: Tue, 6 Feb 1996 18:48:38 +0100 Subject: Re: Plumbago - the mother of the tentacle! Dear Fernando and all who want to know how cps were born, I have now discovered a FANTASTIC reference: JOEL, D.M. (yes, we know him!) & FAHN, A. (1975) Calyx glands of _Plumbago capensis_ Thunb., their structure and secretion, Isr.J.Bot.24:51 An abstract, followed by a more detailed article in Isr.J.Bot.25:127-139 (1976). The authors write (1975): "The calyx of _Plumbago capensis_ bears colleters which secrete a sticky substance. Each colleter consists of a "head" and a "foot" in the center of which a vascular strand occurs...", later (1976:128) modified into: "A short vascular strand occurs in some of them, irrespective of their length." WOW! I cannot aptly describe how excited I am about reading (and now writing) this. Do you know what that means? With this finding and the notion that _P.indica_ apparently always *lacks* vascular strands in the "feet" of the glandular emergences, PLUS the fact that there are species (like _P.tristis_) which even lack the glandular "head" of the calyx emergences, we have a complete series of intermediates from bristle to tentacle WITHIN ONE SINGLE GENUS RELATED TO THE KNOWN TENTACLE-CPS (_Drosophyllum_, _Triphyophyllum_, _Drosera_)!!! Glabrous calyces or such with non-glandular emergences can be found in genera related to _Plumbago_ (viz. _Dyerophytum_ and _Ceratostigma_) so these character states could be regarded as a plesiomorphy in Plumbaginaceae-Plumbaginoideae. The glandular (?vascularized?) emergence is inherited to _Plumbagella_, a seemingly derived (annual/temperate-continental; the other genera are rather subtropical-tropical perennials), monotypic genus. And it *was* possibly inherited (much earlier in evolution) to the cps mentioned. This could mean that the present representatives of _Plumbago_ still "remember" the intermediates of the evolution of an organ which has gained peculiar imortance in the carnivorous process found in related (but nowadays widely distinct) families. We can now formulate a phylogenetic hypothesis based on present day evidence. Of course, the present species are only descendants from phylogenetically successive steps, they represent transformed offspring from now extinct "missing links" (now that we know at least their relatives they are of course no longer missing!). An interesting theory about the function of these emergences in _Plumbago_ is found in FAHN & WERKER (in KOZLOWSKI, ed.: Seed Biology 1:151-221, 1972) where it is stated thet the sticky resin facilitates the dispersal of the fruits (included in the detached fruiting calyces) by animals. I can verify from observations on _P.indica_ that the dried fruits break off from the stem very easily at the point where the pedicel is attached to the calyx. This could mean that: 1. the evolution of a dispersal mechanism (glabrous->bristly->glandular->tentacular mucilaginous calyx) could have led to: 2. an evolution of floral biology ensuring cross-pollination by flying insects, excluding crawlers by the ability to immobilize (i.e. to catch) the latter, which could have led to: 3. an evolution of traps devoted to the process of capture and (by means of further transforming the secretory apparatus) digestion of prey. The shift of the tentacles from floral parts (external surface of calyx lobes, lower surface of bracts) to the normal leaves by a process called neoteny: ontogenetically late organs of phylogenetically older forms (like inflorescence parts in _Plumbago_) are formed at ontogenetically earlier stages in phylogenetically younger forms (like leaves or even cotyledons in _Drosophyllum_). This resulted in an increased trapping efficiency (larger surface, not dependent on flowering) It may be of significance in this context (as I have mentioned before) that _Drosophyllum_ has the tentacles on the lower, abaxial leaf surface (like the _Plumbago_ inflorescence parts). 4. The trapping apparatus was presumably further transformed within Droseraceae s.str., where mobility of tentacles or leaf parts, the ability to perceive tactile stimuli, and a higher integration of trapping and digestive functions in the tentacle head etc. were adopted (i.e. mutation/selectioned) as further apomorphies. The translocation of the trapping apparatus to the upper, adaxial leaf surface being another palaeo-droseracean development. So we have intermediates, we have the common (synplesiomorphous) characters, and we have a direction (or several directions after diversification). This is what I would call an (of course improvable) evolutionary theory. And all the facts were known and published before a single gene was sequenced (but apparently nobody -including myself, I admit- cared until...). Well, the genetical information can now very conveniently be fit into a scheme in order to construct "rooted" trees. Kind regards Jan ################### From: Steve Klitzing Date: Tue, 06 Feb 1996 09:39:20 -0800 Subject: CPs in greenhouse Hi all: Well, after receiving 3 VFT bulbs (supposedly 3-5 years old each) from Peter Paul's nursery last summer, these are my results. 1 died outright. The other two remained spindly and incapable of catching meals. Now, those two have overwintered in my greenhouse, and are now sending out new healthy leaves. The plants are smaller than when I got them, but the leaves are stubbier, thicker, greener, and much healthier now. One thing I noticed...the new traps it produces are viable and have turgor, so the plants can now catch their own meals. A good save for a very disappointing start. No more orders from Peter Paul's. They are not the company they were in 1980, when I could get all kinds of healthy CPs of many diverse varieties from them. I remember their bare root N. Khasiana and Cephalotus plants did wonderfully...and they were beaucoup cheap back then. Now, they don't have anything unusual. I bought an S. Purpurea off the nursery shelf last summer. It has survived well in the greenhouse, and gone mostly dormant this winter. The plant is largely still green and healthy, with a new trap now beginning to form. The only thing I've done to this plant is keep its pitchers filled with water. That seems to have made a big difference. Earlier attempts to grow Sarracenia met with failure, largely due to the fact that I didn't keep the pitchers filled with water. Of two Cephalotus I have grown, one died and the other has remained healthy but has not grown much. I got it last summer at a BACPS sale and have been careful not to repot it or anything. It seems to like the plastic dome I have put it in, and enjoys the humidity and protection from any cold air or drafts. I'm hoping to see some good growth out of it this year. My big experiment will be happening soon, when I attempt to sprout 10 different varieties of Nepenthes seed. Since even mildly hot temps in the greenhouse, and related greenhouse slime and fungus, can kill them...I've decided to sprout under flourescent lights for a change. I have no idea as to their viability, but hope for the best. So far, this has been a very pleasing and rewarding return to this hobby. CPs, at least in my book, are as cool as any orchid and are great fun. The ants that occasionally scout out the greenhouse keep getting drawn to the Nepenthes plants and most seem to meet their doom in an N. pitcher. I'm looking forward to a great growing year, now that I understand how to control my greenhouse environment. I'm even going to experiment with letting some of the plants trap naturally by putting them outside at night in the summer. Have fun! ---Steve ################### From: Clarke Brunt Date: Mon, 5 Feb 1996 19:02:20 +0000 Subject: Re: Wintering P. Moranensis On 1 Feb 96 at 12:31, Robert Allen wrote: [about Pinguicula moranensis] > It's now making the winter leaves. Since you're > growing it indoors I would try to dry it out > significantly until it starts putting out the > summer leaves again. Also note that it is > claimed that the thicker winter leaves are the > best for rooting to produce leaf bud plants. The latter is certainly true - Summer leaves are hopeless for leaf cuttings, while the Winter ones work quite well. Still I find the leaf cuttings quite slow compared with the near adult plants that you get by dividing the plants into single rosettes - I usually get 4 or 5 from each plant after one season's growth. -- Clarke Brunt (clarke@brunt.demon.co.uk) ################### From: Paul Seymour Date: Wed, 07 Feb 1996 22:55:42 +1000 Subject: Jan's a guy?? >Yes, please don't anybody let yourselves be offended by Jan's >words. I couldn't be happier to have him here with us, a priceless living >library! Who else can answer all our minute doubts about any and every CP >and even related subjects (habitats, climates, evolution, biochemistry, >etc.)? What would we do without his CP nomenclatural synopsis? Jan's a guy? And all this time I've been thinking "WOW, this lady sure is knowledgable". What a disappointment! Regards, Paul. ################### From: dick@rmy.emory.edu Date: Wed, 7 Feb 96 08:39:44 EST Subject: Re: S. oreophila I planted seeds of this pitcher plant in live sphagnum last spring. The seed was from Chilterns. Most germinated but the seedlings were short lived. I am determined to grow this thing and I'm ready to try again with a fresh batch of seed. Does anyone have any recommendations based on experience? Since I have seen this plant in habitat, growing in what seemed to be fairly rich soil, perhaps it needs more nourishment than other pitcher plants. I would appreciate some advice. Dick Wagner Atlanta ################### From: Gopher Date: Wed, 7 Feb 96 22:51:09 +0900 Subject: 3.7-Coverletter-to-participants ATBI WORKSHOP, 16-18 April 1993 Part 3 of 7 COVERLETTER SENT TO PARTICIPANTS WITH COPY OF NSF PROPOSAL _________________________________________________________________ 26 December 1992 Department of Biology University of Pennsylvania Philadelphia, Pa. 19104 fax 215-898-8780 Dear Participant in the 16-18 April Workshop on an All-taxa Inventory: Please forgive this generalized letter but it is my only chance of getting this off to you before leaving for Costa Rica on 27 December. Enclosed is a copy of the NSF workshop proposal that went into NSF on 14 December. Jim Edwards and Kris Krishtalka seemed to feel that it could be externally reviewed in time for funding of the 16-18 April date (provided that the reviewers don't kill it). Given the very high level of positive reinforcement that I have received from Jim and Kris, I feel that NSF would very much like to be the sponsor for this workshop. However, in the worst possible case that NSF turns it down, I am committed to going into some kind of crisis behavior to find the funding from some other source. I really do not have the personal flexibility to postpone it, since I have to be in Costa Rica by 24 April to begin teaching a course, and am then locked into Costa Rica by a wide variety of commitments through the end of August. I am thinking in terms of all of you arriving the afternoon-evening of 15 April (Philadelphia airport for distant, 30th street train station for those of you from the Washington, D.C. region, I assume). I am hoping that all can stay through the evening of 18 April, to leave the morning of the 19th. I am assuming that our travel agent here can do all the reservations and send you your tickets, but I will get back to you later in January on that. Please feel very free to share this proposal with anyone, and solicit commentary from anyone - be they users of the information and specimens to be generated by an all-taxa inventory, and/or be they those who will generate that information. I will be at the 11-15 January US-Smithsonian international workshop on biodiversity inventories, distribute the proposal widely, and discuss it with anyone who will listen. Any comments from you or anyone else should be sent to my office in Philadelphia (address above) if you think that they will get there before 15 January (before 11 January, if you want me to take them into consideration in my discussions at the 11-15 January Smithsonian workshop). After that date and through about 15 March, it is better to send them to me in Costa Rica (I will spend about 15 March until the workshop at my Philadelphia address). In Costa Rica, the reliable FAX is at INBio (506-36-28-16) as well as is the reliable address (airmail to D. H. Janzen, INBio, 3100 Santo Domingo de Heredia, Heredia, Costa Rica). Do not try e-mail to me in Costa Rica. The bitnet net is in, and internet is arriving, but that is still just to San Jose, INBio, and other central things. Out where we live in northwestern Costa Rica (the Guanacaste Conservation Area, GCA or ACG as it is called in Spanish) the telephone line really only works from in to out, and out to in is left for the locals who know and can monitor the secrets of time of day (radio phone), whether there is a cloud over the solar panel, storm interference, etc. Stuff sent by FAX to me to INBio is then forwarded by a local by FAX to me in the GCA. It is generally of no use for you to try to call me there (506-69-55-98) because a staff of 85 people use one phone line. As for my office in Philadelphia, for the remainder of January, Alicia Kikuchi will be working out of my office and attending to my mail and voice-mail messages, but about the best she can do with your inquiries is to forward them on to me in Costa Rica. Between the end of January and about 15 March, a departmental secretary will do the same. I plan to return to Philadelphia about 15 March, to work full-time on getting ready for the workshop until it occurs. I would like to dream that we can do lots of preliminary discussing and thinking about the subject matter of the workshop before we get there. This brief letter is an effort to begin in that direction, as will be my responses to you all to what you write in. It would be very fine if we could arrive at the workshop with many issues partly thought through, and even some sort of fuzzy exoskeleton and internal skeleton in place, but amply covered with meristem. It would help me very much if each of you could jot down for me the major taxa that you are willing to take responsibility for. I will put all that together, and then figure out who to assign the tardigrades, peripatus, sponges, and other orphans to. Please be generous with accepting responsibility for groups. Many of you have cryptic taxonomic abilities for which you are not known, but will do fine for the purposes of this workshop. I am too jet-lagged and exhausted to write an extensive commentary on the workshop now, but I plan to do that during the first two weeks of January. However, there are a few things that I should comment on, and would welcome your comments on. 1. I was told by NSF to formalize the workshop proposal (you can all see that I am not much of a bureaucrat, even when I try), so it does not say the following explicitly, but what I tell people when introducing the subject is "given that you had a serious large budget ($20 million-plus), wanted to inventory all taxa, were restricted to a single large site (and subsites within it), and had to do it in a relatively short time, what would be your general plan of attack?" I feel that a "large site" should be big enough that it contains strongly differing habitats for the species with big and wide-ranging organisms (higher plants, vertebrates, many insect orders) and is representative of one or more ecosystems; if this is unimaginably large for some groups of little things (microbes, for example), then some level of incompleteness would be acceptable for them within this larger area. A large site would then, I suspect for many parts of the world, then be 50,000 to 100,000 ha. A relatively short time means, I suspect, something like five years. Less than that, and I suspect that many species would get missed just because during that time they were not common enough to be found. Also, less than that would get mired down in all those things that cannot be done in just a few years no matter how much money you throw at them. On the other hand, if it gets to be much more than five years, then we are getting into the realm of being so slow that however well the project goes, it will not become a pilot project fast enough to be a major cause of similar efforts cranking up in other places with enough time ahead of them to make a real difference in the ongoing process of tropical biodiversity loss. It would be ideal if we could quickly fix these major boundary conditions relatively constant, and then concentrate on the questions of how does one do this thing (and what will it cost). I mention $20 million as a minimum figure for what I feel a serious all-taxa inventory of a biodiverse major terrestrial ecosystem, would cost - and to emphasize that such an inventory will cost real funding of a level not normally envisioned by biodiversity workers (and therefore clearly not something in competition with the woefully small contemporary basic research budgets of NSF biodiversity programs, but rather, some major source of new money). 2. While the focus of this workshop is meant to be general (e.g., not a site-specific document as a product), there is nothing at all wrong with having specific cases in mind as you think your way through this, and I encourage you to do this. I feel that we certainly need to be thinking of places that are large enough and diverse enough to contain hundreds of thousands of species (and perhaps many more if the "wild" bacteria are as speciose as they are now appearing to be). Of course it is my intent to work with INBio in Costa Rica to do such an all-taxa inventory of a major site, using the workshop document as a guideline for a very site-specific and on-site workshop (late 1993?) of those who would actually carry out the inventory, to generate an actual proposal that NSF can insert into its overall budgetary process. I also assume that at least several other specific sites will emerge, for possible funding by NSF or other governments. 3. I can see that a major consideration will be, for each group of organisms, "What are the tradeoffs in time and budget for the different possible approaches to getting all of the species in the project area?" 4. While this is not the core topic of this particular workshop, it would be very helpful for the workshop and the users of its output, if each of you would think very broadly as to who are the users (private and government, profit and non-profit) for the results of a complete inventory of your particular taxa. I would like very much to hear these so as to begin to draw up a composite statement on this topic. 5. I suggest that we not spend our time worrying about how to do an all-taxa inventory in a place that lacks modern logistics (roads, electricity, buildings, reliable water, national protective legislation, national administrative infrastructure, easy access, etc.). In other words, interior Zaire or much of the rainforest on the foothill slopes of the eastern Andes are not yet ready for an all-taxa inventory. This means that the general conclusions will not be applicable to large portions of the tropics at the moment. On the other hand, those areas not ready today will become ready some day, and the existence of an all-taxa inventory protocol may well hasten that day. Likewise, I am of the opinion that a large-scale all-taxa inventory should not be invested in an area that does not contain some major pieces of relatively undisturbed habitat/ecosystem. In other words, a central US farming region might have many kinds of anthropogenic habitats and a huge fraction of the species originally present, but to be worth the effort I feel that it should have also a large patch of relatively intact vegetation along with the anthropogenic habitats. The Pleistocene loss of big mammals, and the recent losses of passenger pigeons, carnivores, old-growth forest, megamarshes, etc. render all New World habitats severely disturbed at one level, but it seems that we should do the best we can to cover the range of successional possibilities still available. I also do not think that an all-taxa inventory should be focused on a habitat or ecosystem that is in the process of being destroyed; salvage inventories are of course very functional, but that is not what I think we should be focused on here (and they will have quite different goals and methodologies, seems to me). Whatever the case, it seems to me that the workshop might well consider a taxonomy of inventories, and make a first stab at describing some of the conditions under which different species of inventories might be most appropriate. 6. While we need very much to think about how to get the organisms concerned, I feel that the workshop should also very much take into consideration the processing of this material once it is off-site at museums, universities, research centers, and on taxonomists' desks (who are not necessarily those involved in capturing or collecting it). 7. A major item of discussion will be generated by the fact that there will be major heterogeneity with respect to how soon a taxon will get to the "we have all the species in hand, and we know where at least one lives" stage. Once a taxon has gotten to that point, should a) its inventory be declared "done" and the human and cash resources moved to another more incompletely inventoried taxon, or b) should the activity stay on a given taxon and continue into the "post-inventory" stages of biodiversity management and study. I generally opt for a) as an administrative designed to achieve the goal of the project, but there are clearly cases where b) should also be allowed to some degree. 8. I would like to touch on a delicate subject by expressing the opinion that the goal of an all-taxa inventory is not to know how many species are in the site (but rather to know what species are there and where they are, and then begin doing things with them). Such a number should be an easily-derivable byproduct, however, of an inventory. A very inflammatory corollary is that the methodologies to be employed in the inventory are not solely justifiable on the basis that they will allow the determination of how many species occur in other areas (world networks, etc.), unless those methodologies are either extremely cheap or automatically a byproduct of other methodologies. Let me be more specific. I have yet to see a case in tropical conservation or other kind of biodiversity management where it mattered whether a site had 200 or 300 species of butterflies. Which butterflies, which habitats, population sizes, associated organisms, and a host of non-biological considerations, are vastly more important in the decision-making process of biodiversity management for and by all sorts of users. Put another way, if there was a book that magically gave the exact number of species of butterflies present in every single national park, forest reserve and large block of wildland left in the tropics, but did not tell you what butterflies they are, I think that it would get very little use except to generate descriptive correlations of butterfly number of species with this or that other habitat variable. These correlations of course are of interest for certain kinds of basic studies (and abound in the literature), but are they where one should allocate finite resources among the multitude of other inventory activities that have both basic and applied importance to a variety of users? I suggest thinking through "your" group of organisms with the goal of organizing an all-taxa inventory, and ask to what degree counting per se of species is important, and to whom, at what budget allocation, as compared with other budget allocations. 9. After reading through the NSF proposal, I would be most grateful if you were to take the two lists of questions/topics and let your imagination run rampant in adding to them, and send me such lists to attempt to pool in the next month or so. 10. For those of you working with organisms that are so speciose and hard to sample that you think that an all-taxa inventory is simply impossible over a "large" area, would you give some extensive thought as to what processes you would use to select the subsites within the entire area? Diversity versus replication is going to be a killer on this one. 11. You can count on this poly-dialogue generating a request sometime in the next couple of months that you think out what would be the first, second, third, etc. steps for getting all the species in your taxa, starting with day one. 12. Equally, could you give some thought to the question of at what point in completeness you are willing to take the time and dollar budget for your taxa and pass it over to the budget for other groups that are slower to inventory, more speciose, etc. 13. Equally, could you think through the databasing and GIS efforts to date for your taxa, focused on specimen-data bases rather than species/habitat-data bases (but don't exclude the latter) with the idea of identifying where are the specimen-specific pitfalls and taxa-specific pitfalls. Example? Larval insects collected into a specimen-data base have the nasty habit of generating parasitoids and hyperparasitoids days to weeks later, each of which have their own data trails nested within the primary (caterpillar) data trail. Imagine what happens when we collect viruses, bacteria, fungal spores, ectoparasites, and parasitoids all from the same individual caterpillar. Taxa-specific pitfalls? I assume that some taxa are going to acquire quite incredible audit trails as they first get names and then get synonymized as the specimens from the inventory facilitate revisionary work. Vertebrates not a problem, but insects and maybe polymorphic fungi a nightmare? 14. Finally, could you think strongly on the question of the best kinds of temporary names/vouchers for your taxa until they have "real" formal names? 15. As for the methodology of the workshop, what I hope we can all agree on is not dividing into subgroups, but rather have all of us consider each question and aspect. This means, for example, that a virus person would be listening to a short discussion of various kinds of methodologies of trapping insects into alcohol and other media, and hopefully asking whether this renders the specimens absolutely useless from a virologist's standpoint, and whether there might be some alternative methods that will satisfy both the virologist and the entomologist. Same applies, for example, to the various methods of preserving plant specimens - air-dried, formalin, alcohol in plastic bags, forced hot air plant driers, etc. - that may variably affect the possibilities of collecting fungi, mites and microbes off of the leating references for the final document, and I am sure that all of you have favorite inventory methods and philosophy papers. Please, please, please collect the reference in its complete form, as ready for appearance in Ecology, Evolution, etc. If at all possible, please collect a xerox or reprint of the actual work. The very finest papers will be ones with titles such as "The anatomy of a complete inventory of the annelid worms of Nova Scotia" (fictitious). "What happens when you fog a rainforest tree" papers are of course of use too, as well as detailed technique papers about this or that trap or sampling methodology. These reprints should make an invaluable file for the workshop, and I suppose might even be usefully duplicated and bound as a tool for complete inventory efforts as they begin to appear. Where an entire book is involved, if you can get me the address where to order it, before sending me the reference, that will help, since I will have to be ordering it from Costa Rica most likely. All for now. Please don't get mad or disgusted when I say naive or off-base things. Just tell me what is wrong with them, and best of all, give us multiple alternatives, or new ways of looking at the old problem. Again, thank you all for the quite amazing enthusiasm for this thing that you have all expressed over the phone and in letters. Sincerely yours Daniel H. Janzen Professor of Biology -----END OF FILE----- ################### From: Jan@pbc-ths1.pci.chemie.uni-tuebingen.de (Jan Schlauer) Date: Wed, 7 Feb 1996 15:51:56 +0100 Subject: Re: Jan's a guy?? Dear Paul, >Jan's a guy? Well, last time I checked it, it definitely seemed so. >What a disappointment! Yes, perhaps. I am very sorry. I did really not want to disappoint you and the others who might have thought... But I do intend to stay what I am at the moment. Apologies for the xy Jan ################### From: Chris Marsden <100620.2156@compuserve.com> Date: 07 Feb 96 09:18:32 EST Subject: Re: Sigma Chemical Co. (oldish thread!) Dear Everybody, I apologise to those who have to pay for each message coming in, but this is my second Email today. My question is thus - I am about to order from UK Sigma and I have printed out my own letterheads of an imaginary 'company' called Oak Propagation. If anyone out there is familiar either with Sigma or UK law, could they tell me whether a)Sigma will accept it (they have so far) and b) whether, under UK law at least, this is legal. I have presumed it is, as in effect what I am doing is setting up my own company. Chow for now, Toby Marsden 100620,2156@compuserve.com ################### From: Chris Marsden <100620.2156@compuserve.com> Date: 07 Feb 96 09:18:38 EST Subject: Re: Tissue Culture Tutorial & Media Everybody, I have spent some time over the last month or so preparing a list of tissue culture media as several people have expressed interest in it. On completion I accessed the internet CP web site and looked at the CP tutorial. The comprehensive list of media and techniques there is much fuller than the list that I had created and I feel it would be extremely useful to beginners (and maybe more advanced hobbyists as well) to go there and spend a few minutes downloading the tutorial. This, of course, has made my list of media redundant so I won't post it onto the list. However, there are two things that most people know but could be of some use to those in the same boat as me, i.e contemplating Tissue Culture. 1) Heliamphora species, notorious amongst many culturists, can be fairly easily cultured in the same conditions as Highland Nepenthes conditions (i.e. 2/3 Knudson C Orchid medium) with the same media. 2) Heliamphora and Nepenthes species can survive quite happily without any vitamins. However, having 'talked' with several veteran culturists, apparently Neps and Heliamphora sp. are best grown as for the Nepenthes entry in the TC tutorial on the WWW but with 0.1mg/l NAA. I hope this may be of some use to those of you that are just starting TC of CP. If anyone notices any mistakes or has got ANYTHING to add to my comments, please contact me at 100620,2156@compuserve.com Toby Marsden ################### From: kirk martin Date: Wed, 07 Feb 96 07:10:18 PST Subject: White flies on D. capensis I also had a problem of infestation on my D. capensis and found it to be aphids. They destroyed the plants within two weeks. I found a mixture of lemon dishsoap and vegetable oil mixed in water and sprayed to be highly effective (perhaps someone can post the exact recipe for me as mine is still packed away in boxes. Good Luck and don't let those pests get the upper hand Kirk ################### From: ritter@floyd.HQ.ileaf.com (Janice Ritter x5444) Date: Wed, 7 Feb 1996 10:26:00 -0500 Subject: uh oh.... Hi guys - I brought a bunch of D. capensis and intermedia into work today. I live in Boston, and it was about 20 degrees outside when I drove to work, which took 20 minutes. The car was cold when I started.... All the leaves on the plants turned dark green and drooped, and they look like the cells bought the farm. :-( Will these plant's leaves recover? not all the leaves were affected, so i think the plants will live, but boy, am I bummed out by this. Thanks, -- Janice Ritter ritter@ileaf.com Boston, MA and SG Jagger vom Mack-Zwinger, B AD CGC (GSD, 3 yrs, OFA Good H&E) Lakelands Kaylie Lee (GSD, 1 yr, Very Naughty) ################### From: Kevin Snively Date: Wed, 7 Feb 1996 08:32:42 -0800 (PST) Subject: Re: uh oh.... the plants can come back from the roots if they ar well enough established. Wait to see what is truely dead and then cut that part off. keep warm and moist not soggy wet. It they dont return in a month write me and I'll send you some seeds. I keep some of my capensis outdoors year round here and they always come back the next spring. I live 32 miles north of Seattle Washington and last week the temps stayed between 15 and 30 deg. F. On Wed, 7 Feb 1996, Janice Ritter x5444 wrote: > > Hi guys - I brought a bunch of D. capensis and intermedia > into work today. I live in Boston, and it was about 20 degrees > outside when I drove to work, which took 20 minutes. The car > was cold when I started.... All the leaves on the plants > turned dark green and drooped, and they look like the cells > bought the farm. :-( > > Will these plant's leaves recover? not all the leaves were affected, > so i think the plants will live, but boy, am I bummed out by this. > > Thanks, > > -- > Janice Ritter ritter@ileaf.com Boston, MA > and > SG Jagger vom Mack-Zwinger, B AD CGC (GSD, 3 yrs, OFA Good H&E) > Lakelands Kaylie Lee (GSD, 1 yr, Very Naughty) > ################### From: Oliver T Massey CFS Date: Wed, 7 Feb 1996 12:37:10 -0500 (EST) Subject: Re: S. oreophila > > I planted seeds of this pitcher plant in live sphagnum last spring. The seed was from Chilterns. Most germinated but the seedlings were short lived. I am determined to grow this thing and I'm ready to try again with a fresh batch of seed. Does anyone have any recommendations based on experience? Since I have seen this plant in habitat, growing in what seemed to be fairly rich soil, perhaps it needs more nourishment than other pitcher plants. > > I would appreciate some advice. > > Dick Wagner > Atlanta I have always had the best luck with Sarrs. (including S. oreophila) in either live sphagnum that has been broken up some (to keep it from overgrowing seedlings) or with dried sphagnum that has been rewetted and left to stand for several days. Seedling Sarrs. seem to me to be sensitive to lack of water and low humidity. Live sphagnum helps with the moisture levels. I would double check humidity and light before changing growing mediums. I'm not sure you can have too much of either. For whats its worth. Tom in Fl ################### From: Fernando Rivadavia Lopes Date: Wed, 7 Feb 1996 17:21:20 -0300 (GRNLNDST) Subject: Lost CPN issue - Kevin Snively Sorry to post this here, but I'm looking for Kevin Snively and the e-mail address I got in CPN doesn't seem to be working. I think he's the one in charge of the lots issues, right? Dear Kevin, A few months ago I mentioned on the 'net that my September CPN hadn't arrived yet and I think you answered me saying that it was on the way. I have now received the December issue, but still no sign of the September issue. Do you know if it was sent to me? Thanks! Fernando Rivadavia Sao Paulo, Brazil ################### From: Rick Walker Date: Wed, 07 Feb 1996 11:36:36 -0800 Subject: Re: Sigma Chemical Co. (oldish thread!) > My question is thus - I am about to order from UK > Sigma and I have printed out my own letterheads of an imaginary > 'company' called Oak Propagation. If anyone out there is familiar > either with Sigma or UK law, could they tell me whether a)Sigma will > accept it (they have so far) and b) whether, under UK law at least, > this is legal. I HIGHLY advise *against* taking this plan of action! SIGMA's audit division *will* call your phone number at a random time. If the person does not answer "Oak Propagation Company", then your request for an account will be denied, and you will be "blacklisted" from ever placing orders for perpetuity. This happened to a friend of mine who used his business phone for his "phony" corporation. When SIGMA called the receptionist they were greeted with a name different than the invoice. They then proceeded to question whether the receptionist knew about tissue culture activities and the existence of the fictitious company. No on both counts. This person has never been able to order from SIGMA since. If he calls and gives his name, they have a reference to him on their computer, and will not even talk to him. SIGMA *will* send chemicals to individuals if you are honest and up-front about your activities. Don't mess around with deception. They will find out. Their catalog contains precursors for LSD, DMT, THC, etc., and they are VERY diligent about checking out who they give accounts to. > I have presumed it is, as in effect what I am doing is setting up my > own company. Take this course *only* if you REALLY set up a company, with a business license, and a commercial, non residential, place of business - including insurance, valid fire inspection certificates, etc... > However, there are two things that most people know but could be of > some use to those in the same boat as me, i.e contemplating Tissue > Culture. I've added your suggestions to the tutorial. They will be in the next update to the TC slideshow. Thanks! -- Rick ################### From: Fernando Rivadavia Lopes Date: Wed, 7 Feb 1996 17:36:59 -0300 (GRNLNDST) Subject: Re: Plumbago - the mother of the tentacle (great title, Jan!) Jan, > Dear Fernando and all who want to know how cps were born, > > I have now discovered a FANTASTIC reference: > > JOEL, D.M. (yes, we know him!) & FAHN, A. (1975) Calyx glands of > _Plumbago capensis_ Thunb., their structure and secretion, > Isr.J.Bot.24:51 > > An abstract, followed by a more detailed article in > Isr.J.Bot.25:127-139 (1976). etc....... Wow! That is very exciting! Great news! Do you still want the Plumbago I have in alcohol? Fernando Rivadavia Sao Paulo, Brasil ################### From: writserv@mi.net Date: Wed, 7 Feb 1996 15:36:17 -0400 Subject: Re: Sigma Chemical Co. (oldish thread!) >Dear Everybody, > I apologise to those who have to pay for each message coming in, >but this >is my second Email today. My question is thus - I am about to order from UK >Sigma and I have printed out my own letterheads of an imaginary 'company' >called >Oak Propagation. If anyone out there is familiar either with Sigma or UK law, >could they tell me whether a)Sigma will accept it (they have so far) and b) >whether, under UK law at least, this is legal. >I have presumed it is, as in effect what I am doing is setting up my own >company. > >Chow for now, > >Toby Marsden >100620,2156@compuserve.com Toby: >I have printed out my own letterheads of an imaginary 'company Get a lawyer. Rand Nicholson ################### From: writserv@mi.net Date: Wed, 7 Feb 1996 15:36:14 -0400 Subject: Re: Jan's a guy?? >>Yes, please don't anybody let yourselves be offended by Jan's >>words. I couldn't be happier to have him here with us, a priceless living >>library! Who else can answer all our minute doubts about any and every CP >>and even related subjects (habitats, climates, evolution, biochemistry, >>etc.)? What would we do without his CP nomenclatural synopsis? > >Jan's a guy? And all this time I've been thinking "WOW, this lady sure is >knowledgable". What a disappointment! > >Regards, > >Paul. I was told that the beard was a ruse. It is a good thing that I am sensible enough to delete any references to such unsubstantiated speculation. As regards this post: I have pre-established deniability. Rand ################### From: Kathleen M. Heldreth - Biologist Date: Wed, 7 Feb 96 16:23:24 EST Subject: RE: White flies on D. capensis > I also had a problem of infestation on my D. capensis and found > it to be aphids. They destroyed the plants within two weeks. > I found a mixture of lemon dishsoap and vegetable oil mixed in water > and sprayed to be highly effective (perhaps someone can post the > exact recipe for me as mine is still packed away in boxes. I am particularly interested in your aphid control because I think my Drosera's currently have an aphid infestation. It's also moving onto the U. longifolia. I'm looking at tiny whitish-yellow 'dandruff' on the flower scapes and leaf petioles, and they don't move. They must be aphids, even though they aren't the fat, fleshy looking things I recognize. (Augh! See what will happen when you neglect them during one of those intense 5 week winter session courses!) Did you try immersing the D. capensis in a bucket of water for a few days? Did it work? I was going to try this approach this weekend. Can someone dig out the soap/oil mixture in water recipe or suggest other methods of control? Kathleen Heldreth (bitterly cold) Newark, DE ################### From: writserv@mi.net Date: Wed, 7 Feb 1996 18:20:48 -0400 Subject: RE: White flies on D. capensis >> I also had a problem of infestation on my D. capensis and found >> it to be aphids. They destroyed the plants within two weeks. >> I found a mixture of lemon dishsoap and vegetable oil mixed in water >> and sprayed to be highly effective (perhaps someone can post the >> exact recipe for me as mine is still packed away in boxes. > >I am particularly interested in your aphid control because I think my >Drosera's currently have an aphid infestation. It's also moving onto >the U. longifolia. I'm looking at tiny whitish-yellow 'dandruff' on the >flower scapes and leaf petioles, and they don't move. They must be >aphids, even though they aren't the fat, fleshy looking things I >recognize. (Augh! See what will happen when you neglect them >during one of those intense 5 week winter session courses!) > >Did you try immersing the D. capensis in a bucket of water for a few >days? Did it work? I was going to try this approach this weekend. > >Can someone dig out the soap/oil mixture in water recipe or suggest >other methods of control? > > >Kathleen Heldreth >(bitterly cold) Newark, DE Kathleen: It sounds like you have mealybug. Or mold. Whatever. This is a pretty good all round bug killer. Make an infusion of nicotine from 3 - 4 cigarettes (a palmfull of butts) in one half liter of water. Wait overnight and strain. Add a couple-three drops of liquid soap, a drop of garlic oil and one half litre of water. Pour into a spray bottle, shake and mist _heavily_. Repeat every 8 to 10 days for a month. Whitefly, mealybug, spidermite, etc, leave nits. Make it drippy but just let the mist layer the soil. Flush the soil after every misting. Make a new brew every two days if using regularly (nicotine degrades very quickly). Spray _all_ your plants! Wash your curtains, hands, stands etc, with bleach. (Diluted, of course) If you still have things crawling or flying around after that: did you pick off the fuzzy white things? Dead mealybugs may contain nits. Also if they are the kind that get in your soil ... change it, of course, and maybe the best you can hope for is control. The alternative is throwing out the plant(s). Been there. Prefer it. CPs will tolerate this kind of treatment, but they do not like it for extended periods. Droseras may react by dying if one is heavy handed. Remember, most Droseras eat anything on their leaves. You have to worry about their crowns and roots. Do not use this in any closed system where there is a chance of buildup. Sorry, you are on your own with the Utrics. Lose the veggie oil, that can't be good. Anyone? >>(bitterly cold) Newark, DE You ain't seen _cold_ yet. :} Rand Nicholson Canada ################### From: redbaron@cix.compulink.co.uk (Richard Marsden) Date: Wed, 7 Feb 96 22:33 GMT Subject: RE: White flies on D. capensis In-Reply-To: <9602072122.AA07887@esds01.es.dupont.com> We could well have the same problem. The carcasses (!) do look very much like dandruff. At first I didn't see any live beasties, but now that the plants have joined me (they were in my parent's care since just after sowing), I can see quite a few of the little beasties! I have tried the submersion yet. Whilst I think about it, I'll fill a bucket of water for submersion tomorrow... (letting the tapwater stand a few hours, allows most of the chlorine to evaporate off - I just don't have enough rain/snow water!!) Richard ################### From: Wayne Forrester Date: Wed, 7 Feb 1996 16:20:35 -0800 (PST) Subject: RE: White flies on D. capensis Just a short note about the use of nicotine from cigarettes as a pesticide. It may produce a very effective insecticide but you run the risk of infecting your plants with whatever virus that may have been present in the tobacco plant. Wayne Forrester ################### From: Paul Seymour Date: Thu, 08 Feb 1996 13:39:42 +1000 Subject: re: Jan's a guy? Jan, >Yes, perhaps. I am very sorry. I did really not want to disappoint you and >the others who might have thought... >But I do intend to stay what I am at the moment. I understand. My wife tolerates rather than shares my interest in CP's. You were, however briefly, a shining example of feminine virtuosity in this seemingly male dominated arena. Not to mention the benefactor of more than a few triple word scores ("It is so a word, Jan Schlauer used it today!") Regards, Paul. ################### From: writserv@mi.net Date: Wed, 7 Feb 1996 23:47:56 -0400 Subject: RE: Nicotine >Just a short note about the use of nicotine from cigarettes as a >pesticide. It may produce a very effective insecticide but you >run the risk of infecting your plants with whatever virus that may have >been present in the tobacco plant. >Wayne Forrester Wayne: You are, correct me if I am wrong, speaking of the Tobacco Mosaic Virus? Or some other(s)? Do you have references to specific studies on this? Where did you find this information? FIO (For Information Only). The FDA may have information on this (don't think so). It _would_ seem asinine to release millions of tonnes infectious tobacco products, commercially, all over the world without some restrictions regarding CPs, not to mention commercial and seasonal ornamental crops which generate a real cash flow. I can see the guide in Borneo flipping his Yankee made Camel into a stand of Nepenthes and the resulting depredation. Next the village yams browning down. Forgive me, Wayne, if I seem flippant, please, but why do think that a virus that may infect one plant will infect another dissimilar? Why has it not already happened? Why do you think that it can survive the process of becoming, essentially, a manufactured product? If in your opinion it can happen, why not give this warning to the tomato growers? Tomato pickers do not smoke? A nicotine infusion is just wet baccy drippings. You see them everywhere. A virus that would cause harm to your CPs would be more likely to be transmitted by your handling of CPs (it could be picked up from an already infected plant, or soil, and most likely be specific to particular types) than from growing them in a field of tobacco. IMHO. Any worries you have about latent "bugs" in a nicotine infusion may be settled by mixing a tsp of chlorine bleach to a liter of the infusion. Let it stand in an open container for 24 hours, at least, before using. After immediate use, throw it out. Nicotine biodegrades quickly, especially in sunlight. Pure nicotine is toxic. One drop is enough to kill a large elephant. I would not be overly concerned about a pandemic virus latent in the described concoction. If you have information that you did not include in your statement, now, please, is the time for enlightenment. If I am doing something wrong _and_ recommending the practice to others ... Rand ################### From: hansenc@aztec.asu.edu (CHRIS HANSEN) Date: Wed, 07 Feb 1996 22:33:17 -0700 (MST) Subject: dumb bug question Sirs, I've grown up in Arizona, and don't really understand plants without stickers and my only right to even listen in on your discussion is two(long since dead) Venus flytraps. But I keep seeing complaints about whiteflies and it seems that most of your plants should be in the position of the frog(who eats what bugs him). Why is there a problem? Chris Hansen ################### From: Randy Lamb Date: Wed, 7 Feb 1996 22:50:42 +0000 Subject: giant Utricularia traps Richard Marsden asked about Utriculata and what was the biggest trap size found for this genus? Peter Cole mentioned: > About 5mm diameter is the biggest I've heard of, on U. humboldtii > and vulgaris (though my vulgaris has never made any more than 2mm.) I haven't seen the tropical giants mentioned but I can vouch from experience about the trap size that can occur in U. macrorhiza (vulgaris). In northern Canada (near Mayo, Yukon Territory) I found very large specimens growing in the shallow end of a marshy lake. The plants were up to 3/4 of a metre long and some of the older traps were approximately 4 to 5 mm in diametre. When you would pick plants out of the water and hold them up to examine them, the traps sounded like a bowl of rice crispies cereal after you add milk; there would be many audible snap, crackle and pops as they triggered and snapped shut with air. These giant traps ranged in colour from a usual green for the newer traps, to a light purple or blackish purple for the older traps. Due to the large size of the plants, they photograhed nicely and Gord Snelling used a shot of these same plants in an article he wrote on aquatic plants for aquariums and had published in Aquarium magazine a few years ago. If I come across the issue and year I'll post it here for any one who may be interested. - Randy ################### From: Jan@pbc-ths1.pci.chemie.uni-tuebingen.de (Jan Schlauer) Date: Thu, 8 Feb 1996 10:25:18 +0100 Subject: Re: Plumbago - the mother of the tentacle Dear Fernando, > Wow! That is very exciting! Great news! Do you still want the >Plumbago I have in alcohol? If it is not too much trouble for you - YES, YES, YES, I *MUST* see those vascular bundles entering them prae-tentacles. AdTNXvance ("hungry") Jan ################### From: Francesco Casali Date: Thu, 8 Feb 1996 12:55:24 +0100 Subject: CP faq and other informations needed! Hi to everyone, I'm a CP grower newbie and, having found some plants and some seeds (thank you again to Peter Cole for the seeds), I'm beginning my experiments. I tried several time to read the CP FAQ from http://www.hpl.hp.com /bot or contacting them directly at http://randomaccess..... but every time I received the message "document impossible to load". So I ask if the problem can be resolved with the number address and which is it or if there are other sites with information about CP growing on line. Every other suggestions will be well accepted. Thank you for the attention. Bye. Cecco Francesco Casali - V.le Vitt. Emanuele 30 24121-Bergamo-Italy phone ++39-35-234903 - Via Pradello 2 24121-Bergamo-Italy phone ++39-35-246763 24 hours fax ++30-35-248433 - 24 hours phone ++39-35-413822 - Internet E-mail ################### From: Keller Date: Thu, 8 Feb 1996 10:50:15 -0500 (EST) Subject: STAMPS On March 14, 1996, the United Nations Postal Admin will issue the 1996 Endangered Species collection of stamps. It contains 12 stamps of endangered species of plants. Information is given in English, French and German. Included are Cephalotus follicularis and Darlingtonia California (both of which are in appendix ll). To order or get further info write to U.N. Postal Administration, P.O. Box 5900, Grand Central Station, New York, N.Y. 10163-9992 Tel: 1-800-234-UNPA or Fax (212) 963-9854 Sorry, I do not have an out of U.S. telephone number ################### From: /G=Loyd/S=Wix/OU=1890CHPI/O=TMGB.URC/@LANGATE.gb.sprint.com Date: Thu, 8 Feb 1996 08:41:00 -0500 Subject: Ping. Leaf Cuttings From Loyd.Wix@URCGB.SPRINT.COM Clark Brunt wrote: >Summer leaves are hopeless for leaf cuttings, whilst Winter >ones work well. My experiences are different to Clarks in that I have in the past taken Summer leaf cuttings (successfully) from P.moranensis. The advantages of using winter leaves however is that they are more numerous and can be removed with less damage to the parent plant. Some plants such as P.emarginata do not produce a Winter rosette like P.moranensis so you only have 'Summer' leaves to use as cuttings. Again I have not had problems raising P.emarginata from such leaf cuttings. Kind regards Loyd ################### From: Wayne Forrester Date: Thu, 8 Feb 1996 08:19:06 -0800 (PST) Subject: RE: Nicotine > Wayne: > > You are, correct me if I am wrong, speaking of the Tobacco Mosaic Virus? Or > some other(s)? Do you have references to specific studies on this? Where >did you find this information? FIO (For Information Only). Sorry no references, and no time to try to dig any up. Yes, I am speaking of TMV or any other plant virus that might be present. As I recall, TMV has a fairly broad host range. I have no info as to whether CP are included in that group. I seriously doubt this has been investigated since CP are not generally a major cash crop. I would say, in general, it is not advisable to apply an extract made from plants to any other plant because the possibility of introducing a virus always exists. > The FDA may have information on this (don't think so). It _would_ seem > asinine to release millions of tonnes infectious tobacco products, > commercially, all over the world without some restrictions regarding CPs, > not to mention commercial and seasonal ornamental crops which generate a > real cash flow. I can see the guide in Borneo flipping his Yankee made > Camel into a stand of Nepenthes and the resulting depredation. Next the > village yams browning down. I doubt the FDA would have done any studies in this area; it's not their domain. Perhaps the Dept of Agriculture. As for releasing millions of tons of infectious tobacco products, two thoughts come to mind. Tobacco has been in use since long before an